Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:45 AM - Re: Plasma III - Cooling Port (RV10@TEXASRV10.COM)
2. 04:53 AM - Re: Red cube fire sleeve (rvdave)
3. 05:16 AM - Re: Re: Red cube fire sleeve (Linn Walters)
4. 05:18 AM - Re: Antisplataero gust lock review (Bill Watson)
5. 05:32 AM - Re: Antisplataero gust lock review (rv10flyer)
6. 06:51 AM - Re: Antisplataero gust lock review (Bill Watson)
7. 07:34 AM - Re: Red cube fire sleeve (rvdave)
8. 08:00 AM - Re: Antisplataero gust lock review (Jesse Saint)
9. 09:51 AM - Re: Antisplataero gust lock review (Bob Turner)
10. 10:03 AM - Re: Re: Antisplataero gust lock review (Jesse Saint)
11. 01:56 PM - Glare screen (Terry Moushon)
12. 03:44 PM - Re: Antisplataero gust lock review (Alan Mekler MD)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Plasma III - Cooling Port |
Phil,
The 750 fan will be on most of the time during normal Texas operations. As o
thers have mentioned concerning moving the hot air under the panel.... More c
ooling certainly wouldn't hurt!
Gaylon Koenning
> On Dec 5, 2014, at 10:56 PM, Phillip Perry <philperry9@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I'm not sure if the 750 has an internal fan or if it just has a really lar
ge heat sink. I do know there isn't a cooling port on it.
>
> But I'm thinking, since I will have an extra blower ports available, I mig
ht direct one of the extras toward it to assist in removing heat off the hea
t sink. Again, not required, but it won't hurt.
>
> The only device I have behind the panel that requires cooling is the Plasm
a III. And even that is debatable if it's mounted in a cool spot (mine is o
n the subpanel). Many of the earlier 6 cylinder models don't even have the
port.
>
> On the topic of fans, I have two in the top of the upper fuse. They are s
imply defoggers (not defrost - heat isn't required). So the goal is to keep
air moving and if it will exhaust some heat from under than panel then all t
he better.
>
> On a monumental building note, I think I will be doing my first power up w
ith the panel temporarily wired up to the airframe on Tuesday. If it goes w
ell then I can get started on the permanent installation. Very excited! I
t's been a long time coming. 7.5 years to this point. :)
>
> Phil
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Dec 5, 2014, at 10:02 PM, Rick Lark <larkrv10@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> Hey Phil, don't you have a G750 with it's own fan? I have 2 5" computer t
ype fans in the upper fuse which should be all sorts of cooling (along with m
y G650). Unless you have a 430W/530W you shouldn't need Steins fan,......or
am I missing something?
>>
>> Rick
>>
>>> On Fri, Dec 5, 2014 at 11:11 AM, Phillip Perry <philperry9@gmail.com> wr
ote:
>>> Apologies for this, but I'm about 200 miles from the airplane and orderi
ng parts.
>>>
>>> Do any of you recall the size of the cooling port on the Lightspeed Plas
ma III? The dimensions for the port are not included in their documentation
.
>>>
>>> The question above is the most important one...
>>>
>>> But I'd also be curious to know if any of you have found a way to provid
e reliable cooling air with a more commercialized (think Mouser, Digikey, et
c) blower. Right now I'm leaning toward shelling out a few hundred dollars t
o Aircraft Spruce for an avionics blower.
>>>
>>> Phil
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> _blank">www.aeroelectric.com
>>> .com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
>>> ="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
>>> ="_blank">www.mypilotstore.com
>>> ank">www.mrrace.com
>>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>> tp://forums.matronics.com
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>> ot;">www.aeroelectric.com
>> books.com"">www.buildersbooks.com
>> quot;">www.homebuilthelp.com
>> quot;">www.mypilotstore.com
>> ">www.mrrace.com
>> ot;">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>> List"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>> //forums.matronics.com
>> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>>
>
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Red cube fire sleeve |
Actually after looking at the acs firesleeve mentioned I see it's the same dimension
that I have already so back to square one. I guess I'll wrap with cut pieces
of sleeving and clamp. I was looking to know if anyone else had the cube
in this location and their experiences with heat whether it's a factor or not.
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435410#435410
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| Subject: | Re: Red cube fire sleeve |
Dave, please take this with a grain of salt .... I'm still building
..... but from my perspective you're spending a lot of time on a
solution to a problem that just doesn't exist. I can't speak to the red
cube specifically, but so far I've had really good results from various
flow senders mounted .... naked .... in the engine compartment. There
was one failure from a sender that came with my Piper that had 1800
hours on it. That was many years ago and I'm sure technology has
improved since that one was manufactured.
Linn
On 12/6/2014 7:51 AM, rvdave wrote:
>
> Actually after looking at the acs firesleeve mentioned I see it's the same dimension
that I have already so back to square one. I guess I'll wrap with cut
pieces of sleeving and clamp. I was looking to know if anyone else had the cube
in this location and their experiences with heat whether it's a factor or
not.
>
> --------
> Dave Ford
> RV6 flying
> RV10 building
> Cadillac, MI
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435410#435410
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Antisplataero gust lock review |
Looks like a good unit with a few 'ifs'.
Another solution that I'm sure I picked up here and have been using for
almost 3 years now is a modified Bogi-bar
<http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pspages/bogibars2.php> It has a
few 'ifs' as well but if the logic tree works for you, it may be a solution.
* IF the Bogi-bar works as a tow bar for you (I have the stainless
heads of cap screws extending from the sides of my nosewheel pant -
the Bogi-bar fits around those for towing and works very well)
* and IF you have Oregon Aero cushions - are there any others out
there? Don't know, probably will work the same anyway
* and IF you have the standard rudder pedals - I am unaware of what
else is out there.
* THEN you can move either seat to the rear most position and jam the
collapsed Bogi-bar between the front of the seat cushion and the
rudder pedals. The round tow pin receivers on the bar will hold in
the gap at the bottom of the standard pedals and the handle jams
into the front of the cushions with an over-center kind of fit that
will stay in place in heavy winds
* and THEN you can take a short bungee cord and tie it around the
stick and Bogi-bar in any one of several ways to lock the ailerons
and elevator. If you leave this off, it still works well in most
situations since the rudder is the real culprit in winds, the
elevator doesn't seem like it will move and the ailerons are pretty
much damped out by the trim springs - but I always add the bungee.
Wrapping a little friction tape around the Bogi-bar where it touches
the stick is a good idea. This works independent of how the stick
is wired or booted.
* And IF all the above works for you, you can THEN add some welded on
tabs to the bottom of the Bogi-bar (half washers work well) to key
into the gap at the bottom of the standard rudder pedals to make the
whole thing more secure and fool proof.
What makes all this work is the improbable accident that the collapsed
Bogi-Bar is exactly the right length to fit between the front seat and
the rudder pedals - go figure.
The advantage for me is there is only one item to carry along on trips -
the Bogi-Bar - which I use for backing my '10 out of the hangar and hand
towing around ramps. I assume there is a fair number of Bogi-bar users
out there already who do the same thing(?).
I should take a few pics and post but haven't.
Bill "thinking about some proficiency work with 600' ceilings" Watson
On 12/5/2014 8:01 PM, Pascal wrote:
> I just posted a review of the Gust lock from antisplataero on VAF.
> http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?p=939414#post939414
> As Bob Leffler commented, if you have wires routed on the outside of
> the stick, versus inside (as I did) this gust lock, with retainer, the
> way it is today will NOT work for you.
> http://antisplataero.com/RV-10_Ultimate_Gust_Lock.html
> Pascal
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Antisplataero gust lock review |
I have used the Bogi-Bar for 3 yrs too.
[quote="Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com"]Looks like a good unit with a few 'ifs'.
Another solution that I'm sure I picked up here and have been using for almost 3 years now is a modified Bogi-bar (http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pspages/bogibars2.php) It has a few 'ifs' as well but if the logic tree works for you, it may be a solution.
IF the Bogi-bar works as a tow bar for you (I have the
stainless heads of cap screws extending from the sides of my nosewheel
pant - the Bogi-bar fits around those for towing and works very
well) and IF you have Oregon Aero cushions - are there any others
out there? Don't know, probably will work the same anyway and
IF you have the standard rudder pedals - I am unaware of what else is
out there.
THEN you can move either seat to the rear most position and
jam the collapsed Bogi-bar between the front of the seat cushion
and the rudder pedals. The round tow pin receivers on the bar
will hold in the gap at the bottom of the standard pedals and the handle
jams into the front of the cushions with an over-center kind of
fit that will stay in place in heavy winds and THEN you can
take a short bungee cord and tie it around the stick and Bogi-bar
in any one of several ways to lock the ailerons and elevator. If you
leave this off, it still works well in most situations since the rudder
is the real culprit in winds, the elevator doesn't seem like it
will move and the ailerons are pretty much damped out by the trim
springs - but I always add the bungee. Wrapping a little friction tape
around the Bogi-bar where it touches the stick is a good
idea. This works independent of how the stick is wired or booted.
And IF all the above works for you, you can THEN add some
welded on tabs to the bottom of the Bogi-bar (half washers work well)
to key into the gap at the bottom of the standard rudder pedals to
make the whole thing more secure and fool proof. What
makes all this work is the improbable accident that the collapsed Bogi-Bar
is exactly the right length to fit between the front seat and the rudder
pedals - go figure.
The advantage for me is there is only one item to carry along on trips
- the Bogi-Bar - which I use for backing my '10 out of the hangar and
hand towing around ramps. I assume there is a fair number of Bogi-bar
users out there already who do the same thing(?).
I should take a few pics and post but haven't.
Bill "thinking about some proficiency work with 600' ceilings" Watson
On 12/5/2014 8:01 PM, Pascal wrote:
> I just posted a review of the Gust lock from antisplataero on VAF. http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?p=939414#post939414 (http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?p=939414#post939414)
> As Bob Leffler commented, if you have wires routed on the outside of the stick, versus inside (as I did) this gust lock, with retainer, the way it is today will NOT work for you. http://antisplataero.com/RV-10_Ultimate_Gust_Lock.html (http://antisplataero.com/RV-10_Ultimate_Gust_Lock.html)
>
> Pascal
>
>
>
> [b]
--------
Wayne G.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435413#435413
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Antisplataero gust lock review |
(I'm going to repost without the bulleted list - it displayed back badly
to me:)
Looks like a good unit with a few 'ifs'.
Another solution that I'm sure I picked up here and have been using for
almost 3 years now is a modified Bogi-bar
<http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pspages/bogibars2.php> It has a
few 'ifs' as well but if the logic tree works for you, it may be a solution.
- IF the Bogi-bar works as a tow bar for you (I have the stainless heads
of cap screws extending from the sides of my nosewheel pant - the
Bogi-bar fits around those for towing and works very well)
- and IF you have Oregon Aero cushions - are there any others out
there? Don't know, probably will work the same anyway
- and IF you have the standard rudder pedals - I am unaware of what else
is out there.
- THEN you can move either seat to the rear most position and jam the
collapsed Bogi-bar between the front of the seat cushion and the rudder
pedals. The round tow pin receivers on the bar will hold in the gap at
the bottom of the standard pedals and the handle jams into the front of
the cushions with an over-center kind of fit that will stay in place in
heavy winds.
- and THEN you can take a short bungee cord and tie it around the stick
and Bogi-bar in any one of several ways to lock the ailerons and
elevator. If you leave this off, it still works well in most situations
since the rudder is the real culprit in winds, the elevator doesn't seem
like it will move and the ailerons are pretty much damped out by the
trim springs - but I always add the bungee. Wrapping a little friction
tape around the Bogi-bar where it touches the stick is a good idea.
This works independent of how the stick is wired or booted.
- And IF all the above works for you, you can THEN add some welded on
tabs to the bottom of the Bogi-bar (half washers work well) to key into
the gap at the bottom of the standard rudder pedals to make the whole
thing more secure and fool proof.
What makes all this work is the improbable accident that the collapsed
Bogi-Bar is exactly the right length to fit between the front seat and
the rudder pedals - go figure.
The advantage for me is there is only one item to carry along on trips -
the Bogi-Bar - which I use for backing my '10 out of the hangar and hand
towing around ramps. I assume there is a fair number of Bogi-bar users
out there already who do the same thing(?).
I should take a few pics and post but haven't.
Bill "thinking about some proficiency work with 600' ceilings" Watson
On 12/5/2014 8:01 PM, Pascal wrote:
> I just posted a review of the Gust lock from antisplataero on VAF.
> http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?p=939414#post939414
> As Bob Leffler commented, if you have wires routed on the outside of
> the stick, versus inside (as I did) this gust lock, with retainer, the
> way it is today will NOT work for you.
> http://antisplataero.com/RV-10_Ultimate_Gust_Lock.html
> Pascal
> *
>
>
> *
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Red cube fire sleeve |
Linn, you're probably right--- I think just to satisfy my gut I'll wrap it and
move on, thanks.
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435417#435417
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Antisplataero gust lock review |
For the bogi bar, just extent the handle and put it up against the seat back
and seat belt it down. Works great.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
www.mavericklsa.com
C: 352-427-0285
O: 352-465-4545
F: 815-377-3694
Sent from my iPhone
> On Dec 6, 2014, at 8:16 AM, Bill Watson <Mauledriver@nc.rr.com> wrote:
>
> Looks like a good unit with a few 'ifs'.
>
> Another solution that I'm sure I picked up here and have been using for al
most 3 years now is a modified Bogi-bar It has a few 'ifs' as well but if th
e logic tree works for you, it may be a solution.
> IF the Bogi-bar works as a tow bar for you (I have the stainless heads of c
ap screws extending from the sides of my nosewheel pant - the Bogi-bar fits a
round those for towing and works very well)
> and IF you have Oregon Aero cushions - are there any others out there? Do
n't know, probably will work the same anyway
> and IF you have the standard rudder pedals - I am unaware of what else is o
ut there.
> THEN you can move either seat to the rear most position and jam the collap
sed Bogi-bar between the front of the seat cushion and the rudder pedals. T
he round tow pin receivers on the bar will hold in the gap at the bottom of t
he standard pedals and the handle jams into the front of the cushions with a
n over-center kind of fit that will stay in place in heavy winds
> and THEN you can take a short bungee cord and tie it around the stick and B
ogi-bar in any one of several ways to lock the ailerons and elevator. If yo
u leave this off, it still works well in most situations since the rudder is
the real culprit in winds, the elevator doesn't seem like it will move and t
he ailerons are pretty much damped out by the trim springs - but I always ad
d the bungee. Wrapping a little friction tape around the Bogi-bar where it t
ouches the stick is a good idea. This works independent of how the stick is
wired or booted.
> And IF all the above works for you, you can THEN add some welded on tabs t
o the bottom of the Bogi-bar (half washers work well) to key into the gap at
the bottom of the standard rudder pedals to make the whole thing more secur
e and fool proof.
> What makes all this work is the improbable accident that the collapsed Bog
i-Bar is exactly the right length to fit between the front seat and the rudd
er pedals - go figure.
>
> The advantage for me is there is only one item to carry along on trips - t
he Bogi-Bar - which I use for backing my '10 out of the hangar and hand towi
ng around ramps. I assume there is a fair number of Bogi-bar users out ther
e already who do the same thing(?).
>
> I should take a few pics and post but haven't.
>
> Bill "thinking about some proficiency work with 600' ceilings" Watson
>
>
>> On 12/5/2014 8:01 PM, Pascal wrote:
>> I just posted a review of the Gust lock from antisplataero on VAF. http:/
/www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?p=939414#post939414
>> As Bob Leffler commented, if you have wires routed on the outside of the s
tick, versus inside (as I did) this gust lock, with retainer, the way it is t
oday will NOT work for you. http://antisplataero.com/RV-10_Ultim
ate_Gust_Lock.html
>>
>> Pascal
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Antisplataero gust lock review |
I too extend it against the seat back. belt it down. I put some Home Depot pipe
insulation in the triangle of the bar that the stick goes thru. I use the other
seat's seat belt to hold the sticks firmly against the Boggie bar/pipe insulation.
No need to carry extra cords.
I don't weld, so I used some hose clamps to hold the front tabs on.
[quote="jesse(at)saintaviation.co"]For the bogi bar, just extent the handle and
put it up against the seat back and seat belt it down. Works great.
Jesse SaintI-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org (jesse@itecusa.org)
www.itecusa.org (http://www.itecusa.org)
www.mavericklsa.com (http://www.mavericklsa.com)
C: 352-427-0285
O: 352-465-4545
F: 815-377-3694
Sent from my iPhone
On Dec 6, 2014, at 8:16 AM, Bill Watson wrote:
> Looks like a good unit with a few 'ifs'.
>
> Another solution that I'm sure I picked up here and have been using for almost 3 years now is a modified Bogi-bar (http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pspages/bogibars2.php) It has a few 'ifs' as well but if the logic tree works for you, it may be a solution.
> IF the Bogi-bar works as a tow bar for you (I have the
stainless heads of cap screws extending from the sides of my nosewheel
pant - the Bogi-bar fits around those for towing and works very
well) and IF you have Oregon Aero cushions - are there any others
out there? Don't know, probably will work the same anyway and
IF you have the standard rudder pedals - I am unaware of what else
is out there.
> THEN you can move either seat to the rear most position and
jam the collapsed Bogi-bar between the front of the seat
cushion and the rudder pedals. The round tow pin receivers on the bar
will hold in the gap at the bottom of the standard pedals and the
handle jams into the front of the cushions with an over-center kind
of fit that will stay in place in heavy winds and THEN you
can take a short bungee cord and tie it around the stick and Bogi-bar
in any one of several ways to lock the ailerons and elevator. If
you leave this off, it still works well in most situations since the
rudder is the real culprit in winds, the elevator doesn't seem like
it will move and the ailerons are pretty much damped out by the trim
springs - but I always add the bungee. Wrapping a little friction
tape around the Bogi-bar where it touches the stick is a good
idea. This works independent of how the stick is wired or booted.
And IF all the above works for you, you can THEN add some
welded on tabs to the bottom of the Bogi-bar (half washers work well)
to key into the gap at the bottom of the standard rudder pedals
to make the whole thing more secure and fool proof. What
makes all this work is the improbable accident that the collapsed Bogi-Bar
is exactly the right length to fit between the front seat and the rudder
pedals - go figure.
>
> The advantage for me is there is only one item to carry along on
trips - the Bogi-Bar - which I use for backing my '10 out of the hangar
and hand towing around ramps. I assume there is a fair number of Bogi-bar
users out there already who do the same thing(?).
>
> I should take a few pics and post but haven't.
>
> Bill "thinking about some proficiency work with 600' ceilings" Watson
>
>
> On 12/5/2014 8:01 PM, Pascal wrote:
>
>
> > I just posted a review of the Gust lock from antisplataero on VAF. http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?p=939414#post939414 (http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?p=939414#post939414)
> > As Bob Leffler commented, if you have wires routed on the outside of the stick, versus inside (as I did) this gust lock, with retainer, the way it is today will NOT work for you. http://antisplataero.com/RV-10_Ultimate_Gust_Lock.html (http://antisplataero.com/RV-10_Ultimate_Gust_Lock.html)
> >
> > Pascal
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> [b]
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435421#435421
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Antisplataero gust lock review |
Send it to me & I'll have it welded for you. I have been doing the towbars like
this for about 8 years. It is always with you and works great.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
352-427-0285
jesse@saintaviation.com
Sent from my iPad
> On Dec 6, 2014, at 12:49 PM, Bob Turner <bobturner@alum.rpi.edu> wrote:
>
>
> I too extend it against the seat back. belt it down. I put some Home Depot pipe
insulation in the triangle of the bar that the stick goes thru. I use the other
seat's seat belt to hold the sticks firmly against the Boggie bar/pipe insulation.
No need to carry extra cords.
> I don't weld, so I used some hose clamps to hold the front tabs on.
>
>
> [quote="jesse(at)saintaviation.co"]For the bogi bar, just extent the handle and
put it up against the seat back and seat belt it down. Works great.
>
> Jesse SaintI-TEC, Inc.
> jesse@itecusa.org (jesse@itecusa.org)
> www.itecusa.org (http://www.itecusa.org)
> www.mavericklsa.com (http://www.mavericklsa.com)
> C: 352-427-0285
> O: 352-465-4545
> F: 815-377-3694
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
> On Dec 6, 2014, at 8:16 AM, Bill Watson wrote:
>
>
>
>> Looks like a good unit with a few 'ifs'.
>>
>> Another solution that I'm sure I picked up here and have been using for almost 3 years now is a modified Bogi-bar (http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pspages/bogibars2.php) It has a few 'ifs' as well but if the logic tree works for you, it may be a solution.
>> IF the Bogi-bar works as a tow bar for you (I have the
stainless heads of cap screws extending from the sides of my nosewheel
pant - the Bogi-bar fits around those for towing and works very
well) and IF you have Oregon Aero cushions - are there any others
out there? Don't know, probably will work the same anyway and
IF you have the standard rudder pedals - I am unaware of what else
is out there.
>> THEN you can move either seat to the rear most position and
jam the collapsed Bogi-bar between the front of the seat
cushion and the rudder pedals. The round tow pin receivers on the bar
will hold in the gap at the bottom of the standard pedals and the
handle jams into the front of the cushions with an over-center kind
of fit that will stay in place in heavy winds and THEN you
can take a short bungee cord and tie it around the stick and Bogi-bar
in any one of several ways to lock the ailerons and elevator. If
you leave this off, it still works well in most situations since the
rudder is the real culprit in winds, the elevator doesn't seem like
it will move and the ailerons are pretty much damped out by the trim
springs - but I always add the bungee. Wrapping a little friction
tape around the Bogi-bar where it touches!
> the stick is a good idea. This works independent of how the stick
is wired or booted. And IF all the above works for you, you
can THEN add some welded on tabs to the bottom of the Bogi-bar (half
washers work well) to key into the gap at the bottom of the standard
rudder pedals to make the whole thing more secure and fool
proof. What makes all this work is the improbable accident that
the collapsed Bogi-Bar is exactly the right length to fit between the
front seat and the rudder pedals - go figure.
>>
>> The advantage for me is there is only one item to carry along on
trips - the Bogi-Bar - which I use for backing my '10 out of the hangar
and hand towing around ramps. I assume there is a fair number of Bogi-bar
users out there already who do the same thing(?).
>>
>> I should take a few pics and post but haven't.
>>
>> Bill "thinking about some proficiency work with 600' ceilings" Watson
>>
>>
>> On 12/5/2014 8:01 PM, Pascal wrote:
>>
>>
>>> I just posted a review of the Gust lock from antisplataero on VAF. http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?p=939414#post939414 (http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?p=939414#post939414)
>>> As Bob Leffler commented, if you have wires routed on the outside of the stick, versus inside (as I did) this gust lock, with retainer, the way it is today will NOT work for you. http://antisplataero.com/RV-10_Ultimate_Gust_Lock.html (http://antisplataero.com/RV-10_Ultimate_Gust_Lock.html)
>>>
>>> Pascal
>>
>> [b]
>
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435421#435421
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 11
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Looking down the road at what I might do to cover my glare screen. My windows are
not in. Has anyone temporally covered the glare screen with BID fiberglass
and then applied a cover to that so it is easily replaceable? Both "successes"
and "won't do that again" welcome. Thanks
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Antisplataero gust lock review |
I have wild blue innovations gust buster and it works great
Alan
Sent from my iPhone
> On Dec 5, 2014, at 8:01 PM, Pascal <rv10flyer@live.com> wrote:
>
> I just posted a review of the Gust lock from antisplataero on VAF. http://
www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?p=939414#post939414
> As Bob Leffler commented, if you have wires routed on the outside of the s
tick, versus inside (as I did) this gust lock, with retainer, the way it is t
oday will NOT work for you. http://antisplataero.com/RV-10_Ultimate_Gust_Loc
k.html
>
> Pascal
>
>
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>
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