Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:28 AM - Elevator horn alignment (EXT-Allen, David)
2. 05:33 AM - Re: RV9-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 06/26/05 (EXT-Allen, David)
3. 02:59 PM - Re: Elevator horn alignment (Chenoweth)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Elevator horn alignment |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "EXT-Allen, David" <david.allen@boeing.com>
My RV9A instructions say to clamp the powder coated elevator horn in
place and align it with the centerline of the elevator spar before
drilling it to the spar and to the inboard rib.
Anyone have a suggestion on how to do this alignment?
Thanks for your help.
Dave Allen
RV9A Empennage
Message 2
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| Subject: | RE: RV9-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 06/26/05 |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "EXT-Allen, David" <david.allen@boeing.com>
Thanks for the good story. And this could very well save me from a
similar fate. I hate to paint and I sometimes do a less than
professional analysis of things like this.
Dave Allen, RV9A empennage
-----Original Message-----
From: RV9-List Digest Server [mailto:rv9-list-digest@matronics.com]
Subject: RV9-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 06/26/05
*
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Total Messages Posted Sun 06/26/05: 2
Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:11 PM - Paper or Plastic-A warning about primers (Merems)
2. 07:03 PM - Re: Paper or Plastic-A warning about primers (Larry
Rosen)
________________________________ Message 1
_____________________________________
Time: 06:11:13 PM PST US
From: "Merems" <merems@cox.net>
"RV10 Group" <RV10@yahoogroups.com>,
<opticalprod@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: RV9-List: Paper or Plastic-A warning about primers
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Merems" <merems@cox.net>
Fellow builders,
Please take the time to read this email. I spent a bit of time writing
it in the hopes that it prevent another builder/builders from
experiencing my blunder this morning.
I will try my literary skills this morning to help entertain and
educate. This may be a little long winded but I need to vent.
Southern Arizona may sound like the great place to live. Warm winters,
beautiful sunsets, low humidity, wide open spaces and great flying
weather makes this state seem ideal. However, the summers can be another
story.
At 5:30 this morning the temperature is 80 degrees and rising. The
morning sun is angling into the entrance of my shop (my garage door
faces east). The temperature is rising and I know I only have about an
hour to setup and spray my primer before Mother Nature forces me to quit
for the day; I spray my primer outside like many RV builders. You might
be asking yourself why not primer late in the day when the sun is going
down or at least in the shade? Midday the temperature is over 100, by
late afternoon (when my garage casts a shadow providing
shade) the temperature is hovering around 104-106. This is way too hot
to spray. At this temp and low humidity most of the primer dries before
it reaches the parts. Not to mention the surface temperature of the
parts is a bit too high. In addition, the afternoons are a bit breezy
while the mornings are pretty calm. The mornings are the only option for
me this time of year.
I proceeded to setup my 4'x8' wire mesh paint platform and drop clothes
(painters
plastics) outside the entrance to my shop. I had decided to debur and
prep many of RV-7A fuselage parts so I could spray them at the same
time-more efficient I thought. I would guess that I had about 75% or
more of the fuselage components (excluding the skins) ready for primer
painting. That is a very large number of parts. It has taken a lot of
time to clean and prep all these parts, I started weeks back.
I am on my second RV. My first was an RV-4 years ago. Back then I used a
wash primer but I don't remember the brand, it was gray in color, very
similar to the Sherwin Williams (SW) wash primer. Unfortunately it was
no longer available. I decided to use the SW wash primer on my RV-7A. I
used it on the empennage and wings, but I was never happy with the
results. Spitting chunks was a big problem. I never had that problem
with the old gray wash primer on my RV-4. When I built my RV-4 I sprayed
my primer using a Docken spray gun. This is a very simple siphon gun
that is similar to the Badger hobby store paint guns. It used disposable
16 oz cups. It made cleaning up after spaying quick and easy, just
through the cup away when you were done.
As I mentioned, I was not happy with the results I was getting from the
SW wash primer. I decided to use the AKSO epoxy primer for the rest of
my RV-7A project. And since I was using a new primer, I bought a new gun
(HVLP) to apply it.
Now this is where the paper or plastic fits into this long winded story.
Like the SW wash primer, the AKSO is a two component system. I had
several 16 oz cups left over from my Docken spray gun days and I have
been using them for mixing the SW wash primer prior to loading spray gun
cup. These cups are wax-coated paper cups (Dixie brand) and over 20
years old. These cups did the job, but I was running out of them. They
seemed to be the "perfect" size for the amount of primer I was mixing.
A week ago I used the AKSO for the first time. The most significant
difference between the SW wash and the AKSO is the AKSO requires a 30
minute induction time. This means you mix the two components and wait 30
minutes before spraying. This gives the two components time to react
with each other. The results were great. I only had a short time to
spray so I wanted to learn the behavior of the new gun and primer to
help me plan my larger primer session for this weekend.
Yesterday was a good day. I sprayed two groups of parts. By 7:30 in the
morning the temperature was approaching 90 degrees and I couldn't see
through my goggles well (yes I use a respirator). All the parts in the
group were well coated and it was time to cleanup. One more early
morning primer session and all the parts would be coated, then on to
assembly, the fun stuff. So this morning I would finish the job.
Everything was set in place; parts were on the spray platform and now it
was time to mix the paint. I have been using my Black and Decker
Workmate (if you never used one, they are great tool to have around the
shop-one of my most used
tools) as a surface to mix my paints. I laid plastic over it to protect
it from any spills and it was also sitting on some plastic as well. The
Workmate was in the shop so the primers weren't exposed to the heat and
sunlight.
I had used up all my 16 oz. cups the day before and I had shopped around
weeks earlier trying to find a replacement. I only found smaller paper
cups available in the local supermarkets but they had larger disposable
plastic cups. So I bought the plastic due to their size. I wanted paper
but I needed the larger cup size.
Life was good, everything was ready to primer and I mixed two batches of
primer (14 oz. each) in my new plastic cups. And off I went to work on a
few other things in the shop while I waited for the induction time (30
minutes) to pass. After 15 minutes had passed, I went to stir the
primer. I noticed one of the cups was "sagging" a bit.
Alarm bells in my head went off immediately. I grabbed the trashcan. I
knew what was going to happen. The dam was leaking and it was about to
rupture. Just as I lifted up the trashcan the cup dissolved away. None
of the primer made it into the trashcan. Fourteen ounces of the best
primer was now on the floor and covering the base of the Workmate (the
plastic covering the surface didn't extend all the way down to the
base). But I knew this was just the beginning. Within seconds, the
second cup dissolved before I could get the trashcan under it and more
epoxy made it onto the floor. Did I mention my shop floor is coated with
an epoxy (two part-water based-gray)? So now I am staring at a rather
large epoxy mess that only acetone will clean up. But acetone will also
dissolve my epoxy floor coating. Profanities flew and the odor of
acetone filled the air.
All is cleaned up now. My epoxy coated floor looks chemically abused and
my Workmate base is camouflage colored and ready to report for military
duty. I have wasted precious primer and delayed my progress once again.
Hopefully next Friday I will have everything rapped up.
The moral of the story is:
When given the choice paper or plastic, choose paper.
________________________________ Message 2
_____________________________________
Time: 07:03:26 PM PST US
From: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Paper or Plastic-A warning about primers
--> RV9-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
Thanks for the entertaining and well written post. I just had to laugh
as the story played out. I am not laughing at you but rather with you.
Because in situations like that that is all you can do. No one was hurt
and your workmate now has a little olive drab character.
Thanks for the advice
Larry Rosen
Merems wrote:
>--> RV9-List message posted by: "Merems" <merems@cox.net>
>
>Fellow builders,
>
>Please take the time to read this email. I spent a bit of time writing
>it in
the hopes that it prevent another builder/builders from experiencing my
blunder this morning.
>
>I will try my literary skills this morning to help entertain and
>educate. This
may be a little long winded but I need to vent.
>
>Southern Arizona may sound like the great place to live. Warm winters,
>beautiful
sunsets, low humidity, wide open spaces and great flying weather makes
this state seem ideal. However, the summers can be another story.
>
>At 5:30 this morning the temperature is 80 degrees and rising. The
>morning sun
is angling into the entrance of my shop (my garage door faces east). The
temperature is rising and I know I only have about an hour to setup and
spray my primer before Mother Nature forces me to quit for the day; I
spray my primer outside like many RV builders. You might be asking
yourself why not primer late in the day when the sun is going down or at
least in the shade? Midday the temperature is over 100, by late
afternoon (when my garage casts a shadow providing
shade) the temperature is hovering around 104-106. This is way too hot
to spray. At this temp and low humidity most of the primer dries before
it reaches the parts. Not to mention the surface temperature of the
parts is a bit too high. In addition, the afternoons are a bit breezy
while the mornings are pretty calm. The mornings are the only option for
me this time of year.
>
>I proceeded to setup my 4'x8' wire mesh paint platform and drop clothes
>(painters
plastics) outside the entrance to my shop. I had decided to debur and
prep many of RV-7A fuselage parts so I could spray them at the same
time-more efficient I thought. I would guess that I had about 75% or
more of the fuselage components (excluding the skins) ready for primer
painting. That is a very large number of parts. It has taken a lot of
time to clean and prep all these parts, I started weeks back.
>
>I am on my second RV. My first was an RV-4 years ago. Back then I used
>a wash
primer but I don't remember the brand, it was gray in color, very
similar to the Sherwin Williams (SW) wash primer. Unfortunately it was
no longer available. I decided to use the SW wash primer on my RV-7A. I
used it on the empennage and wings, but I was never happy with the
results. Spitting chunks was a big problem. I never had that problem
with the old gray wash primer on my RV-4. When I built my RV-4 I sprayed
my primer using a Docken spray gun. This is a very simple siphon gun
that is similar to the Badger hobby store paint guns. It used disposable
16 oz cups. It made cleaning up after spaying quick and easy, just
through the cup away when you were done.
>
>As I mentioned, I was not happy with the results I was getting from the
>SW wash
primer. I decided to use the AKSO epoxy primer for the rest of my RV-7A
project. And since I was using a new primer, I bought a new gun (HVLP)
to apply it.
>
>Now this is where the paper or plastic fits into this long winded
>story.
>
>Like the SW wash primer, the AKSO is a two component system. I had
>several 16
oz cups left over from my Docken spray gun days and I have been using
them for mixing the SW wash primer prior to loading spray gun cup. These
cups are wax-coated paper cups (Dixie brand) and over 20 years old.
These cups did the job, but I was running out of them. They seemed to be
the "perfect" size for the amount of primer I was mixing.
>
>A week ago I used the AKSO for the first time. The most significant
>difference
between the SW wash and the AKSO is the AKSO requires a 30 minute
induction time. This means you mix the two components and wait 30
minutes before spraying. This gives the two components time to react
with each other. The results were great. I only had a short time to
spray so I wanted to learn the behavior of the new gun and primer to
help me plan my larger primer session for this weekend.
>
>Yesterday was a good day. I sprayed two groups of parts. By 7:30 in the
>morning
the temperature was approaching 90 degrees and I couldn't see through my
goggles well (yes I use a respirator). All the parts in the group were
well coated and it was time to cleanup. One more early morning primer
session and all the parts would be coated, then on to assembly, the fun
stuff. So this morning I would finish the job.
>
>Everything was set in place; parts were on the spray platform and now
>it was time
to mix the paint. I have been using my Black and Decker Workmate (if you
never used one, they are great tool to have around the shop-one of my
most used
tools) as a surface to mix my paints. I laid plastic over it to protect
it from any spills and it was also sitting on some plastic as well. The
Workmate was in the shop so the primers weren't exposed to the heat and
sunlight.
>
>I had used up all my 16 oz. cups the day before and I had shopped
>around weeks
earlier trying to find a replacement. I only found smaller paper cups
available in the local supermarkets but they had larger disposable
plastic cups. So I bought the plastic due to their size. I wanted paper
but I needed the larger cup size.
>
>Life was good, everything was ready to primer and I mixed two batches
>of primer
(14 oz. each) in my new plastic cups. And off I went to work on a few
other things in the shop while I waited for the induction time (30
minutes) to pass. After 15 minutes had passed, I went to stir the
primer. I noticed one of the cups was "sagging" a bit.
>
>Alarm bells in my head went off immediately. I grabbed the trashcan. I
>knew what
was going to happen. The dam was leaking and it was about to rupture.
Just as I lifted up the trashcan the cup dissolved away. None of the
primer made it into the trashcan. Fourteen ounces of the best primer was
now on the floor and covering the base of the Workmate (the plastic
covering the surface didn't extend all the way down to the base). But I
knew this was just the beginning. Within seconds, the second cup
dissolved before I could get the trashcan under it and more epoxy made
it onto the floor. Did I mention my shop floor is coated with an epoxy
(two part-water based-gray)? So now I am staring at a rather large epoxy
mess that only acetone will clean up. But acetone will also dissolve my
epoxy floor coating. Profanities flew and the odor of acetone filled the
air.
>
>All is cleaned up now. My epoxy coated floor looks chemically abused
>and my Workmate
base is camouflage colored and ready to report for military duty. I have
wasted precious primer and delayed my progress once again. Hopefully
next Friday I will have everything rapped up.
>
>The moral of the story is:
>
>When given the choice paper or plastic, choose paper.
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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|
| Subject: | Re: Elevator horn alignment |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Chenoweth" <chenoweth@gwi.net>
My elevator spars were pre-drilled for the horns. Unless you have a very
old kit I expect yours are too. With the holes already there it turns out
to be pretty easy.
Bill,
Now doing wing tanks.
----- Original Message -----
From: "EXT-Allen, David" <david.allen@boeing.com>
Subject: RV9-List: Elevator horn alignment
> --> RV9-List message posted by: "EXT-Allen, David"
<david.allen@boeing.com>
>
> My RV9A instructions say to clamp the powder coated elevator horn in
> place and align it with the centerline of the elevator spar before
> drilling it to the spar and to the inboard rib.
>
> Anyone have a suggestion on how to do this alignment?
>
> Thanks for your help.
>
> Dave Allen
> RV9A Empennage
>
>
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