Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:24 AM - Official Usage Guideline [Please Read] [Monthly Posting] (Matt Dralle)
2. 04:16 AM - Re: Speed Mods, etc. (cpayne@joimail.com)
3. 04:47 AM - old man and the sea (robert de vries)
4. 04:58 AM - Hooker harness installation ()
5. 06:58 AM - RPA Newsletters & Bulletins (Drew Blahnick)
6. 07:53 AM - Re: Speed mods (NapeOne@aol.com)
7. 09:53 AM - SU 35 (Walt Murphy)
8. 05:53 PM - Marvel Mystery Oil - again (Stephen Fox)
9. 06:19 PM - Re: Marvel Mystery Oil - again (A. Dennis Savarese)
10. 07:48 PM - Re: Marvel Mystery Oil - again (Bitterlich GS11 Mark G)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Official Usage Guideline [Please Read] [Monthly Posting] |
DNA: do not archive
--> Yak-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
Dear Lister,
Please read over the Yak-List Usage Guidelines below. The complete
Yak-List FAQ including these Usage Guidelines can be found at the
following URL:
http://www.matronics.com/FAQs/Yak-List.FAQ.html
Thank you,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
******************************************************************************
Yak-List Usage Guidelines
******************************************************************************
The following details the official Usage Guidelines for the Yak-List.
You are encouraged to read it carefully, and to abide by the rules therein.
Failure to use the Yak-List in the manner described below may result
in the removal of the subscribers from the List.
Yak-List Policy Statement
The purpose of the Yak-List is to provide a forum of discussion for
things related to this particular discussion group. The List's goals
are to serve as an information resource to its members; to deliver
high-quality content; to provide moral support; to foster camaraderie
among its members; and to support safe operation. Reaching these goals
requires the participation and cooperation of each and every member of
the List. To this end, the following guidelines have been established:
- Please keep all posts related to the List at some level. Do not submit
posts concerning computer viruses, urban legends, random humor, long
lost buddies' phone numbers, etc. etc.
- THINK carefully before you write. Ask yourself if your post will be
relevant to everyone. If you have to wonder about that, DON'T send it.
- Remember that your post will be included for posterity in an archive
that is growing in size at an extraordinary rate. Try to be concise and
terse in your posts. Avoid overly wordy and lengthy posts and
responses.
- Keep your signature brief. Please include your name, email address,
aircraft type/tail number, and geographic location. A short line
about where you are in the building process is also nice. Avoid
bulky signatures with character graphics; they consume unnecessary
space in the archive.
- DON'T post requests to the List for information when that info is
easily obtainable from other widely available sources. Consult the
web page or FAQ first.
- If you want to respond to a post, DO keep the "Subject:" line of
your response the same as that of the original post. This makes it
easy to find threads in the archive.
- When responding, NEVER quote the *entire* original post in your
response. DO use lines from the original post to help "tune in" the
reader to the topic at hand, but be selective. The impact that
quoting the entire original post has on the size of the archive
can not be overstated!
- When the poster asks you to respond to him/her personally, DO NOT
then go ahead and reply to the List. Be aware that clicking the
"reply" button on your mail package does not necessarily send your
response to the original poster. You might have to actively address
your response with the original poster's email address.
- DO NOT use the List to respond to a post unless you have something
to add that is relevant and has a broad appeal. "Way to go!", "I
agree", and "Congratulations" are all responses that are better sent
to the original poster directly, rather than to the List at large.
- When responding to others' posts, avoid the feeling that you need to
comment on every last point in their posts, unless you can truly
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- Feel free to disagree with other viewpoints, BUT keep your tone
polite and respectful. Don't make snide comments, personally attack
other listers, or take the moral high ground on an obviously
controversial issue. This will only cause a pointless debate that
will hurt feelings, waste bandwidth and resolve nothing.
-------
[This is an automated posting.]
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Speed Mods, etc. |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "cpayne@joimail.com" <cpayne@joimail.com>
Jerry said:
>I've long thought that sealing up the cowling nice and
tight,
>fairing it to the fuselage sides and bottom, along with a
simple nose gear
>strut fairing to close up some of the gear slot and maybe
using an exhaust
>augmenter out the sides would be a good way to speed things
up, either with
>or without inlet vanes. Add a nice spinner and a dishpan to
reduce the
>inlet size. If you just take the vanes off you'll get a
nice little
>speed-up"
I have tested most of these scenarios, some work and some
result in unintended consequences. Last year I flew up to
MTW/OSH with one of those "simple nose gear fairings". It
worked...BUT, it causes a LOT of drag in the gear down
position and could compromise a go-around with a stock 285
on a high density altitude day. Great speed brake though.
Currently I'm working on more "stuff", see it at SNF, my
airplane will be the one with areas of paint stripped as I
slowly remove it in my spare time. Retirement is such hard
work! :)
Craig Payne
Message 3
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| Subject: | old man and the sea |
--> Yak-List message posted by: robert de vries <rob@redyak.demon.nl>
Listers,
however interesting,would you please refrain from copying the whole
'prologue' in the reply mail??
look like reading a book.
and I already have ONE book;been there done that|:)
improves readability and interest in topics dramatically!!
and keep Matt Dralle 's server HD's clean!!
:)
keep it coming.......
Robert
Message 4
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| Subject: | Hooker harness installation |
--> Yak-List message posted by: <lie.buyse@pandora.be>
Yakkers with aerobatic style Hooker harnesses,
After receiving my harness, I see that the seat belt consists of a DOUBLE strap
(no pictures on their website!).
Questions :
- belt with ratched must face rearwards (so on the left side) with the attachment
on the seat pan?
- "front" belt attachment point somewhere on the airframe or on the seat pan together
with the former one?
- shoulders straps and crotch strap to be clicked on the same strap? the front
or the rear one? or maybe shoulders rear and croth front?
Thanks for advise,
Lieven Buyse
Yak 52 RA1428K
P.S. : inspect your four wing attachment bolts carefully. Inspector found one with
5 mm crack of irregular shape in the face of the left
lower bolt (1990 airframe). No CofA until all four replaced.
Message 5
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| Subject: | RPA Newsletters & Bulletins |
--> Yak-List message posted by: Drew Blahnick <lacloudchaser@yahoo.com>
Folks,
If you recieved the Newsletter and liked the format and layout, or did not, email
me directly.
Remember, the newsletter is only four times a year, so we've also designed two
other full membership "anytime" bulletins; "Hanagar Talk" for all things flying-only
related, and "The Oily Rag" for all things Maintenance. These can be sent
out on a 24 hour notice if the content requires it. You will be recieving
the first Hangar Talk edition immediately after we get back from meetings in Arizona.
I'm meeting with the BoD in Febraury and will re-address US Mailed newsletters,
at least to those members who choose this, but as always, we need a team-driven
level commitment, possibly enlisting regional coordinators to assemble the
USPS versions for distribution for their membership.
The electronic versions completely wipe out distribution volunteer manhours, and
greatly reduced formating and layout; liberating us to focus on your content,
but the success and viability is based on having the products recieved by accurate
emails and avoiding issues with spam filters that block delivery.
We will be resending this first newsletter, most likely, to the membership after
correcting/updating the association email list. As I mentioned, we are also
sending out the bulletins which, because they are focused content, are excellent
reads for those interested in the subject matter. In 2004 we were working
on this project and you didn't hear from the RPA enough, now as we mature the
program you might hear from the RPA too much, express patience with your volunteers
and we all benefit in the end.
Website. Yes, it's true; in my efforts to resolve the 600X800 display issue I,
Drew Blahnick, the 105 MM Airborne Field Artillery Howitzer "I'm bored fellas,
lets go blow sh_t up" pilot, broke the darn website! Not a complicated fix,
but Deon is strapped right now with a software project and will bring it back
online here shortly. It was sorta like that cartoon of the kid sitting in first
class on an airliner curiously about to hit a lighted seat push-button labeled
"wings off" Hmmm, wonder what would happen if I do thi...
I will stick to basic web design and web content, if you are a web engineer/code
designer, and would like to join the team to keep guys like me from blowing
sh_t up, email me at admin@flyredstar.org
Now there's an effective volunteer sales pitch if I ever heard one...
Drew Blahnick
RPA President
Yak-List Digest Server <yak-list-digest@matronics.com> wrote:
*
==================================================
Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
==================================================
Today's complete Yak-List Digest can also be found in either of the
two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
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HTML Version:
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================================================
EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
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Yak-List Digest Archive
---
Total Messages Posted Tue 02/01/05: 17
Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:11 AM - Re: CJ Insurance (cpayne@joimail.com)
2. 04:25 AM - Re: how much is a newton? (KJKimball@aol.com)
3. 06:08 AM - Newtons (Tim Gagnon)
4. 06:25 AM - Re: Newtons (Gerald Sweidan)
5. 08:43 AM - Re: Newtons (cjpilot710@aol.com)
6. 09:35 AM - Re: fire extinguisher systems (Jerry Painter)
7. 09:36 AM - Re: fire extinguisher systems (Jerry Painter)
8. 09:38 AM - Re: fire extinguisher systems (Jerry Painter)
9. 10:59 AM - Re: fire extinguisher system (cjpilot710@aol.com)
10. 11:21 AM - Re: Re: fire extinguisher systems (Doug Sapp)
11. 12:41 PM - RPA and Your Email (Drew Blahnick)
12. 02:18 PM - Newtons (Duncan aka Russ)
13. 02:54 PM - Re: Re: fire extinguisher systems (Ernest Martinez)
14. 04:59 PM - The Family Frew (ByronMFox@aol.com)
15. 07:57 PM - Aluminum Bronze Bushings (Frank Haertlein)
16. 09:46 PM - Re: Aluminum Bronze Bushings (Dennis Von Ruden)
17. 09:58 PM - Re: Aluminum Bronze Bushings (Doug Sapp)
________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________
Time: 04:11:41 AM PST US
From: "cpayne@joimail.com"
Subject: Yak-List: Re: CJ Insurance
--> Yak-List message posted by: "cpayne@joimail.com"
Tom,
Thanks for posting the update. All whom attended Waycross
used a radio gear callout on the break. However, we know
based on registration numbers, that about 1/2 of the Yak/CJ
owners are NOT RPA members and they may not be aware that
there is an insurance problem.
Sooo, how do we reach out and communicate with those folks?
Perhaps a membership drive of sorts?
BTW, yes I know the FAA definition but I define an
"incident" as *stuff happens* but an "accident" as somebody
screwed up, either in maintenance/preflight or in the air. I
regard an "accident" as one of those giant Florida turkey
vultures tearing off parts of my airplane, or a tire sinking
into an unseen chuckhole on rollout, etc.
Craig Payne
Craig Payne
________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________
Time: 04:25:18 AM PST US
From: KJKimball@aol.com
Subject: Re: Yak-List: how much is a newton?
--> Yak-List message posted by: KJKimball@aol.com
L39,
You are correct. I did provide an incorrect conversion. Not a number I
calculated but an error the same. I must have had pushed the wrong button on the
HP48SX while aiming for the N to LBF in the unit conversion menu. Apologies
to Pappy and others for the miss.
Sincerely,
Kevin Kimball, VP Engineering
Jim Kimball Enterprises, Inc.
PO Box 849, 5354 Cemetery Rd.
Zellwood, FL 32798
407-889-3451 phone
407-889-7168 fax
http://www.jimkimballenterprises.com/
http://www.pittsmodel12.com/
________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________
Time: 06:08:51 AM PST US
From: "Tim Gagnon"
Subject: Yak-List: Newtons
Seal-Send-Time: Tue, 1 Feb 2005 09:06:53 -0500
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Tim Gagnon"
Newtons (Fig Type) are 55.0 calories ea.
________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________
Time: 06:25:41 AM PST US
From: "Gerald Sweidan"
Subject: RE: Yak-List: Newtons
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Gerald Sweidan"
Someone else started it...
Newtons fifth law - "The last drop is always in the pants."
DO NOT Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Gagnon
Subject: Yak-List: Newtons
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Tim Gagnon"
Newtons (Fig Type) are 55.0 calories ea.
________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________
Time: 08:43:51 AM PST US
From: cjpilot710@aol.com
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Newtons
--> Yak-List message posted by: cjpilot710@aol.com
In a message dated 2/1/2005 9:26:26 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
gerald.sweidan@sweidan.co.za writes:
ENOUGH ALREADY!!!!!!!!!!!
THANK YOU ALL!!!!!!!!!
I GOT IT !!!!!!!!!!!!!
GOD LOVE YA !!!!
YEEEEEEKS !!!!!!!!!! :)
Pappy
(I just wanted to find out the pull of a certain solenoid.)
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Gerald Sweidan"
Someone else started it...
Newtons fifth law - "The last drop is always in the pants."
DO NOT Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Gagnon
Subject: Yak-List: Newtons
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Tim Gagnon"
Newtons (Fig Type) are 55.0 calories ea.
________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________
Time: 09:35:18 AM PST US
From: "Jerry Painter"
Subject: Yak-List: RE: fire extinguisher systems
IMItemGuid: {65D62E0B-6EA8-4D95-A5C9-F34A63A846FD}
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Jerry Painter"
Elmar,
This may be a little removed from extinguishment systems, but perhaps
interesting. I've heard from reliable sources about a CJ that took off with
pilot and CFI for an unexpectedly exciting and unintentionally advanced
instructional flight a couple of years ago. Training is usually a Good
Thing, even advanced training, sometimes especially with unexpected
distractions thrown in. Except in this case, the fuel strainer drain safety
wire had been removed for draining fuel (good idea), but not replaced (bad
idea). (I know, you can see it coming already!) The owner/pilot just
didn't want to be bothered with safety wire every time he needed to drain a
little fuel (a common thought) and I guess the CFI either wasn't real
familiar with the airplane (not good) or didn't want to press the point (not
good in this case, either). The strainer is located very close to one
exhaust outlet. Unfortunately, the drain valve vibrated open in flight,
turning the airplane into a gasoline powered roman candle and burning all
the paint off the side of the airplane. Fortunately, they had presence of
mind to shut off the fuel, which soon extinguished the fire. Only problem
was they now had a pretty poor glider on top of an overcast. Yes, they and
the airplane survived.
More to the point, as you'll soon discover, the CJ's weakest link is the
exhaust system. If you get 400 hours out of a new one you're doing well.
Since the stock exhaust is made of mild steel, rust, heat and corrosion
(inside and out) will soon do their work, especially at pipe joints and
intersections, small radius bends and at the ends, leaving you with a
perforated blowtorch. Get rid of the stock unit ASAP and get a stainless
setup. Don't bother with ceramic coating etc. Get stainless. You can even
get a heat muff setup to warm your hands on those cold (summer) days here in
the PNW.
Cliff makes some very good points. Remember that oil burns, too. Keep it
clean and leak-free. I would also recommend that all flexible lines have
fire sleeve installed.
A little farther afield: A few years ago Fred Ihlenburg (Yakkity Yaks--are
they still in business?) used to advertise a CJ with a multi-outlet-pipe
exhaust that exited from the side cowling openings (I think Mike Filucci has
that airplane now), like a Sea Fury etc. Looked pretty cool. Don't know if
stainless etc. was installed to protect the fuselage sides. And I suppose
carbon monoxide could have been a problem--maybe not. Understand it was
pretty noisy. I've long thought that sealing up the cowling nice and tight,
fairing it to the fuselage sides and bottom, along with a simple nose gear
strut fairing to close up some of the gear slot and maybe using an exhaust
augmenter out the sides would be a good way to speed things up, either with
or without inlet vanes. Add a nice spinner and a dishpan to reduce the
inlet size. If you just take the vanes off you'll get a nice little
speed-up, but excess cooling is a problem (even in summer, esp. here in the
frozen north). Resident speed merchant is Craig Payne who can give your
more ideas if you're into that kind of thing.
And, welcome aboard, hope you enjoy the airplane.
Jerry Painter
--> Yak-List message posted by: Cliff Umscheid
To Pappy and Elmar. Re Fire extinguishing systems:
Any fire ext sys you put on a radial engine has to have a means of
closing in zones 2, 3 and 4. Characteristically, radials have no way to
close in zone 1, which encompasses the nose case. But what do you have to
burn out there in zone 1? More than you might think on some big radials
with a magnesium nose case, You probably haven't seen a real engine fire
which defies extinguishing until you've seen a magnesium
fire from a runaway prop in the process of seizing up or flying off the
engine.. It is an illuminating experience which is best viewed on a dark
night for effect. Further, there isn't much time to get the beast on the
ground before it burns through the tin and into the fuel tanks followed by
wing failure.
Pappy, If you get a zone 1 fire on your B-24, you may recall from
some earlier training on a different equipment, the first priority is to
Feather because you don't have extinguishing to zone 1 and the only way to
extinguish is to feather and dive to blow it out. Feathering is best
accomplished at a lower IAS which preceeds the dive.
Elmar, I don't know if your CJ has a magnesium nose case, but if
you have retained the cooling gills on the airplane you DO have a means of
enclosing zone 1. The purpose of enclosure is to keep the extinguishing
agent from being evacuated before it can be effective The greatest risk of
fire in your CJ comes from the fluid lines in zone 2. Check them frequently
for brittleness and stiffness as well as integrity of hose to fitting. Watch
for signs of SEEPAGE both through the hose and at the fittings. Contrary to
general knowledge, there have been about 5 instances of engine fires in the
YAK and CJ series of airplanes. Most of these occurrences are due to failure
to change the hoses at proper intervals and/or use of wrong ( spelled
AMERICAN ) size hoses with Russian fittings. ( "Looks right"aint good enough
here ). Manufacturer's recommendation on the YAK series is all hoses
changed every 5 years. Brake lines too!
Elmar, Your zone 3 vulnerability ( if CJ is like YAKs } includes
the fuel tank area forward of the cockpit, Does your airplane have a
stainless steele firewall by way of original manufacture or later
modification? In the YAKS this gives you a little more time to get the fire
out, or put it on the ground . Don't be too choosey as to WHERE, you don,t
have the luxury of TIME.
One thing more, check the band clamps securing the flexible exhaust
manifolds. With rust comes weakness and porosity. A hole or separation in
the exhaust assy. can act as a blow torch on a fuel or oil line. Look for
signs of discoloration around the exhaust assy. and related area. You
can't see enough with the cowling closed all the time, Take the tin off
frequently!
Best Wishes and Safe Flying
CLIFF UMSCHEID, YAK 50
________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________
Time: 09:36:53 AM PST US
From: "Jerry Painter"
Subject: Yak-List: RE: fire extinguisher systems
IMItemGuid: {65D62E0B-6EA8-4D95-A5C9-F34A63A846FD}
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Jerry Painter"
Elmar,
This may be a little removed from extinguishment systems, but perhaps
interesting. I've heard from reliable sources about a CJ that took off with
pilot and CFI for an unexpectedly exciting and unintentionally advanced
instructional flight a couple of years ago. Training is usually a Good
Thing, even advanced training, sometimes especially with unexpected
distractions thrown in. Except in this case, the fuel strainer drain safety
wire had been removed for draining fuel (good idea), but not replaced (bad
idea). (I know, you can see it coming already!) The owner/pilot just
didn't want to be bothered with safety wire every time he needed to drain a
little fuel (a common thought) and I guess the CFI either wasn't real
familiar with the airplane (not good) or didn't want to press the point (not
good in this case, either). The strainer is located very close to one
exhaust outlet. Unfortunately, the drain valve vibrated open in flight,
turning the airplane into a gasoline powered roman candle and burning all
the paint off the side of the airplane. Fortunately, they had presence of
mind to shut off the fuel, which soon extinguished the fire. Only problem
was they now had a pretty poor glider on top of an overcast. Yes, they and
the airplane survived.
More to the point, as you'll soon discover, the CJ's weakest link is the
exhaust system. If you get 400 hours out of a new one you're doing well.
Since the stock exhaust is made of mild steel, rust, heat and corrosion
(inside and out) will soon do their work, especially at pipe joints and
intersections, small radius bends and at the ends, leaving you with a
perforated blowtorch. Get rid of the stock unit ASAP and get a stainless
setup. Don't bother with ceramic coating etc. Get stainless. You can even
get a heat muff setup to warm your hands on those cold (summer) days here in
the PNW.
Cliff makes some very good points. Remember that oil burns, too. Keep it
clean and leak-free. I would also recommend that all flexible lines have
fire sleeve installed.
A little farther afield: A few years ago Fred Ihlenburg (Yakkity Yaks--are
they still in business?) used to advertise a CJ with a multi-outlet-pipe
exhaust that exited from the side cowling openings (I think Mike Filucci has
that airplane now), like a Sea Fury etc. Looked pretty cool. Don't know if
stainless etc. was installed to protect the fuselage sides. And I suppose
carbon monoxide could have been a problem--maybe not. Understand it was
pretty noisy. I've long thought that sealing up the cowling nice and tight,
fairing it to the fuselage sides and bottom, along with a simple nose gear
strut fairing to close up some of the gear slot and maybe using an exhaust
augmenter out the sides would be a good way to speed things up, either with
or without inlet vanes. Add a nice spinner and a dishpan to reduce the
inlet size. If you just take the vanes off you'll get a nice little
speed-up, but excess cooling is a problem (even in summer, esp. here in the
frozen north). Resident speed merchant is Craig Payne who can give your
more ideas if you're into that kind of thing.
And, welcome aboard, hope you enjoy the airplane.
Jerry Painter
--> Yak-List message posted by: Cliff Umscheid
To Pappy and Elmar. Re Fire extinguishing systems:
Any fire ext sys you put on a radial engine has to have a means of
closing in zones 2, 3 and 4. Characteristically, radials have no way to
close in zone 1, which encompasses the nose case. But what do you have to
burn out there in zone 1? More than you might think on some big radials
with a magnesium nose case, You probably haven't seen a real engine fire
which defies extinguishing until you've seen a magnesium
fire from a runaway prop in the process of seizing up or flying off the
engine.. It is an illuminating experience which is best viewed on a dark
night for effect. Further, there isn't much time to get the beast on the
ground before it burns through the tin and into the fuel tanks followed by
wing failure.
Pappy, If you get a zone 1 fire on your B-24, you may recall from
some earlier training on a different equipment, the first priority is to
Feather because you don't have extinguishing to zone 1 and the only way to
extinguish is to feather and dive to blow it out. Feathering is best
accomplished at a lower IAS which preceeds the dive.
Elmar, I don't know if your CJ has a magnesium nose case, but if
you have retained the cooling gills on the airplane you DO have a means of
enclosing zone 1. The purpose of enclosure is to keep the extinguishing
agent from being evacuated before it can be effective The greatest risk of
fire in your CJ comes from the fluid lines in zone 2. Check them frequently
for brittleness and stiffness as well as integrity of hose to fitting. Watch
for signs of SEEPAGE both through the hose and at the fittings. Contrary to
general knowledge, there have been about 5 instances of engine fires in the
YAK and CJ series of airplanes. Most of these occurrences are due to failure
to change the hoses at proper intervals and/or use of wrong ( spelled
AMERICAN ) size hoses with Russian fittings. ( "Looks right"aint good enough
here ). Manufacturer's recommendation on the YAK series is all hoses
changed every 5 years. Brake lines too!
Elmar, Your zone 3 vulnerability ( if CJ is like YAKs } includes
the fuel tank area forward of the cockpit, Does your airplane have a
stainless steele firewall by way of original manufacture or later
modification? In the YAKS this gives you a little more time to get the fire
out, or put it on the ground . Don't be too choosey as to WHERE, you don,t
have the luxury of TIME.
One thing more, check the band clamps securing the flexible exhaust
manifolds. With rust comes weakness and porosity. A hole or separation in
the exhaust assy. can act as a blow torch on a fuel or oil line. Look for
signs of discoloration around the exhaust assy. and related area. You
can't see enough with the cowling closed all the time, Take the tin off
frequently!
Best Wishes and Safe Flying
CLIFF UMSCHEID, YAK 50
________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________
Time: 09:38:10 AM PST US
From: "Jerry Painter"
Subject: Yak-List: RE: fire extinguisher systems
IMItemGuid: {65D62E0B-6EA8-4D95-A5C9-F34A63A846FD}
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Jerry Painter"
Elmar,
This may be a little removed from extinguishment systems, but perhaps
interesting. I've heard from reliable sources about a CJ that took off with
pilot and CFI for an unexpectedly exciting and unintentionally advanced
instructional flight a couple of years ago. Training is usually a Good
Thing, even advanced training, sometimes especially with unexpected
distractions thrown in. Except in this case, the fuel strainer drain safety
wire had been removed for draining fuel (good idea), but not replaced (bad
idea). (I know, you can see it coming already!) The owner/pilot just
didn't want to be bothered with safety wire every time he needed to drain a
little fuel (a common thought) and I guess the CFI either wasn't real
familiar with the airplane (not good) or didn't want to press the point (not
good in this case, either). The strainer is located very close to one
exhaust outlet. Unfortunately, the drain valve vibrated open in flight,
=== message truncated ===
---------------------------------
Message 6
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--> Yak-List message posted by: NapeOne@aol.com
Does anyone have any experience with wheel fairings ala A10 Warthog?
David H.
Message 7
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--> Yak-List message posted by: Walt Murphy <waltmurphy@charter.net>
Here's an interesting video of a flight demo on the SU 35 . This is a
very large file and I would not suggest opening unless you have broadband .
http://bemil.chosun.com/movie%20link/SU-35.wmv
Walt
Message 8
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| Subject: | Marvel Mystery Oil - again |
--> Yak-List message posted by: Stephen Fox <jsfox@adelphia.net>
Ok I know this subject has probably been covered to death, but as a new Yak
52 owner who just finished up transition and who joined the list at the very
tail end of the last discussion about MMO. Here=B9s the question add to oil,
add to gas or add to both and in what quantities.
Thanks,
Steve Fox
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Marvel Mystery Oil - again |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "A. Dennis Savarese" <DSAVARESE@ELMORE.RR.COM>
Add to oil. 1 qt per oil change
Add to gas. 6 oz. per 15 gallons. Be religious about using it too.
Interpolate what is needed for each tank each time you fuel up.
Available at most Wal-Mart's for $9.84 per gallon. Least expensive place to
buy it.
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stephen Fox" <jsfox@adelphia.net>
Subject: Yak-List: Marvel Mystery Oil - again
> --> Yak-List message posted by: Stephen Fox <jsfox@adelphia.net>
>
> Ok I know this subject has probably been covered to death, but as a new
Yak
> 52 owner who just finished up transition and who joined the list at the
very
> tail end of the last discussion about MMO. Here=B9s the question add to
oil,
> add to gas or add to both and in what quantities.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve Fox
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Marvel Mystery Oil - again |
--> Yak-List message posted by: Bitterlich GS11 Mark G <BitterlichMG@cherrypoint.usmc.mil>
Dennis's values are accurate... just adding my 1 cent.
Just in case you ever worry about putting too MUCH in: I have used twice
that amount in the fuel for the last 250 hours with no ill results that I
can see. I.E., I use about 1/2 quart for every 28 gallons or so, which is
way over the recommended dosage. I had rather serious lead fouling on
cylinders 9,1 & 2, mainly because the cyl. head temps. are way too cool on
my engine ... "why" is another discussion. Suffice it to say that running
this high an amount of MMO 'seems' to have cut my lead fouling problems down
significantly. This belief has also been supported by inspection of the
spark plugs which now have little to NO lead fouling in two years of
operation. So if you slip.. and slurp in a little too much... it's no big
deal.
I put one quart in with every oil change, as Dennis recommends, and when I
get close to around 20 hours, I put another two quarts in for one flight...
and then drain and change the oil.
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: A. Dennis Savarese [mailto:DSAVARESE@elmore.rr.com]
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Marvel Mystery Oil - again
--> Yak-List message posted by: "A. Dennis Savarese"
<DSAVARESE@ELMORE.RR.COM>
Add to oil. 1 qt per oil change
Add to gas. 6 oz. per 15 gallons. Be religious about using it too.
Interpolate what is needed for each tank each time you fuel up.
Available at most Wal-Mart's for $9.84 per gallon. Least expensive place to
buy it.
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stephen Fox" <jsfox@adelphia.net>
Subject: Yak-List: Marvel Mystery Oil - again
> --> Yak-List message posted by: Stephen Fox <jsfox@adelphia.net>
>
> Ok I know this subject has probably been covered to death, but as a new
Yak
> 52 owner who just finished up transition and who joined the list at the
very
> tail end of the last discussion about MMO. Here=B9s the question add to
oil,
> add to gas or add to both and in what quantities.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve Fox
>
>
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