Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:30 AM - Airplane wax (Craig Payne)
2. 05:24 AM - Re: Airplane wax (Stephen Fox)
3. 02:58 PM - Re: Airplane wax (ByronMFox@aol.com)
4. 03:05 PM - Looking for Jim Plumlee (Shane Golden)
5. 03:16 PM - Re: Airplane wax (Stephen Fox)
6. 03:27 PM - Re: Airplane wax (ByronMFox@aol.com)
7. 07:03 PM - CJ engine (Jim Griffin)
8. 07:33 PM - Re: Airplane wax (Roger Kemp)
9. 07:56 PM - Re: Yak-50 Electrical System Troubleshooting (netmaster15@juno.com)
Message 1
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Now that my airplane will finally wear real paint (Imron), I'll need to re-learn
the same rituals that the rest of ya'll follows... wiping off the bugs and dew,
etc. Waxing now and then.
Has anyone tried any of the new "NanoWaxes", or micro-particulate polishes?
Craig Payne
cpayne@joimail.com
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Airplane wax |
Craig-
I've been using for awhile now a product called Buffalo Milke which
is a spray on wipe off nano wax. It's easy to use and love the
results. It's also a great in between washes cleaner. http://
www.buffalomilke.com/
Also Simple Green airplane cleaner is great for getting the oil off
your belly. Just spray it on, let sit for a minute then hose it off.
The oil just rinses away almost zero wiping.
Steve
On Sep 18, 2006, at 6:29 AM, Craig Payne wrote:
>
> Now that my airplane will finally wear real paint (Imron), I'll
> need to re-learn the same rituals that the rest of ya'll follows...
> wiping off the bugs and dew, etc. Waxing now and then.
>
> Has anyone tried any of the new "NanoWaxes", or micro-particulate
> polishes?
>
>
> Craig Payne
> cpayne@joimail.com
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Airplane wax |
Sad to say, I'm not please with Buffalo Wax on my plane. Leaves very
noticeable streaks on my black paint
Message 4
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| Subject: | Looking for Jim Plumlee |
Anybody have current contact info for Jim Plumlee?
Shane
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Airplane wax |
I thought I'd never see the day where I needed to say this : You need
to rub a bit harder
brother ................................................................
..
with a clean dry cloth :)
On Sep 18, 2006, at 5:57 PM, ByronMFox@aol.com wrote:
> Sad to say, I'm not please with Buffalo Wax on my plane. Leaves
> very noticeable streaks on my black paint
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Airplane wax |
If I wanted to do as you suggest, Lt. Anal, I'd see if I could still buy
(you're too young to remember) Simonize paste wax somewhere. And by the way, a
dirty cloth has never touched my plane. Brother By.
>
> I thought I'd never see the day where I needed to say this : You need to rub
> a bit harder brother
> ..................................................................
>
> with a clean dry cloth :)
>
>
>
> On Sep 18, 2006, at 5:57 PM, ByronMFox@aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Sad to say, I'm not please with Buffalo Wax on my plane. Leaves very
> noticeable streaks on my black paint com/Navigator?Yak-List ntribution
>
>
>
> --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
>
>
Message 7
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Would Dave Rieder call or Email me. I can't seem to get emails through
to you.Thanks
Jim Griffin
Cell 918-269-0913
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Airplane wax |
"Been at sea a long time Sailor?"
Doc
----- Original Message -----
From: Stephen Fox
Sent: 9/18/2006 5:27:50 PM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Airplane wax
I thought I'd never see the day where I needed to say this : You need to rub a
bit harder brother ..................................................................
with a clean dry cloth :)
On Sep 18, 2006, at 5:57 PM, ByronMFox@aol.com wrote:
Sad to say, I'm not please with Buffalo Wax on my plane. Leaves very noticeable
streaks on my black paint
com/Navigator?Yak-List
ntribution
Message 9
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| Subject: | Yak-50 Electrical System Troubleshooting |
Doc,
Schematic received, excellent, thanks very much.
Cliff
-- "Roger Kemp" <viperdoc@mindspring.com> wrote:
Cliff,Here is a emial version that is the same as the hardcopy that I ha
ve. Hope it helps.Doc ----- Original Message ----- From: netmaster15@ju
no.com To: yak-list@matronics.comSent: 9/13/2006 11:21:27 PM Subject: RE
: Yak-List: Yak-50 Electrical System Troubleshooting
Doc,
I would be most appreciative if you would fax me a wiring diagram of the
electrical system. My fax is : 1 828 321 0878. Thankyou.
Cliff
-- "Roger Kemp" <viperdoc@mindspring.com> wrote:
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Roger Kemp" <viperdoc@mindspring.com>
Good discription Mark, I am not an electrician/avionics guy by any sense
of
the word. Took in physics and remember a thimb full. I will send you the
wiring diagram I currently have courtesy of Tim Gagnon. Credit be given
where due. Send me a fax # offline and when I get back to the office
tomorrow.
Doc
> [Original Message]
> From: Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E
<mark.bitterlich@navy.mil&g t;.
> To: <yak-list@matronics.com>
> Date: 9/12/2006 4:18:49 PM
> Subject: RE: Yak-List: Yak-50 Electrical System Troubleshooting
>
> --> Yak-List message posted by: "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Poi
nt,
MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
>
>
> Harry, I do not have a 50 electrical diagram (Doc if you have one, I'd
> dearly love to get a copy), but I have traced out a lot of it, and mos
t
> of what I have seen duplicates the 52 in many ways. I am going to nee
d
> the full electrical&nbs p;diagram to help you out further, but I have
a lot of
> comments to make here. Also, please excuse my lack of tact, I am an
> EA-6B Avionics Tech Rep by profession and I work on problems like this
> ALL the time. There are a few general rules that you always go by whe
n
> dealing with this type of nonsense.
>
> A. Always suspect what was last worked on as the FIRST place you shou
ld
> look for a problem. If human hands have recently been involved anywhe
re
> near wiri ng, and you now have an electrical problem that you never ha
d
> before... GO WHERE PEOPLE RECENTLY PUT THEIR HANDS AND LOOK THERE FIRS
T.
> You'd be amazed at how often that rule is ignored out of simple ego, b
ut
> boy is it accurate!
>
> B. If you are dealing with a system of wires, switches, lights, etc.,
> always suspect any part that moves, like switches, as being the first
> thing you check for failure.
>
> C. NEVER EVER reset a circuit breaker more than once if it pops.& nbs
p; You
> NEVER, EVER EVER troubleshoot a problem like this by pulling this wire
,
> or that wire, and then turning on the breaker again to see if it pops.
> There are many reasons for this, but the most obvious is that you can
> easily end up starting an electrical fire, and please keep in mind whe
re
> the fuel tanks are in your YAK-50. For example, let's say a wire was
> arcing out against your fuel tank. Not hard to imagine since it is on
ly
> inches away from your wiring. Eac h time you reset that breaker you g
et
> an ARC. Eventually the arc actually cuts a hole in the tank and now y
ou
> have gas fumes adding into the mess. Explosion, fire, you name it. Y
ou
> can also generate a wiring fire, even without gas involved. Bottom
> line, stop doing that and never do it again... Please. Anyone that sa
ys
> I am wrong in this regard is an idiot.... Avoid them.
>
> Ok. So you now ask... How do I troubleshoot this problem WITHOUT doin
g
> that? The answer requires you to have a grasp of the basics of
> electrically, which you admitted that you do not have, but here we go,
I
> am going to teach you one trick now and anyone else who bothers to rea
d
> this.
>
> You did exactly the right thing when you took the wires off the circui
t
> breaker/switch. You need to get an electrical meter and learn how to
> read DC VOLTS with it. It's pretty easy. Set it to DC VOLTS, hook th
e
> black wire to aircraft& nbsp;ground (any good bonding point in the air
craft
> itself to the frame) and then use the red wire to touch a wire and rea
d
> voltage. Turn on your electrical master.. The one marked BATTERY. No
w
> look at the switch going to the gear. With the switch turned off, one
> side will have 28 volts on it, and the other side will have NO volts o
n
> it. The side with NO volts on it will be the one we want to mess with
> first. In this case, you have already done that pa rt... You have
> located a wire that if you pull it off, it stops the problem. Luckily
> nothing that we know of blew up in the process. God loves you.
>
> What you need to do now is to learn how to troubleshoot to the next
> step. One good way to accomplish this is by rigging the aircraft so
> that it limits the current draw to this wire. The wire that you found
> is going to a short circuit, and that is why the breaker is popping.
> You need to locate&nb sp;some 28 volt light bulbs. If you do not have
any, I
> will send you some. Let me know. You get about a 25 watt bulb rated
at
> 28 volts (again, I will be glad to give you as many as you need). You
> solder two wires to this light bulb. Now, hook one wire of the bulb (
it
> does not matter which one) to the terminal on the switch. Hook the
> other wire soldered to the light bulb to the wire that you have hangin
g
> that used to connect to the switch.&nb sp;
>
> Now when you turn on your switch, your light bulb will come on, becaus
e
> you have a short to ground in the aircraft wiring SOMEPLACE. But the
> circuit breaker/switch will NOT blow anymore, because the light bulb
> that you just installed in series between the wire you pulled off, and
> the switch itself, will limit the current to ONE AMP (plus or minus a
> tiny bit). All the wiring and crap in the aircraft can handle one amp
> with ease. If you want to lower the amoun t of current, just use a
> smaller bulb... For example a 12 watt bulb would give you a maximum
> current draw of about 1/2 amp. Current in this case will be equal to
> the wattage of the bulb divided by the voltage.
>
> You can now start trying to find the problem by tracing and removing
> other wires, as you were doing before, or simply by jiggling things
> around.
>
> Some might recommend that instead of doing it this way, you simply use
> an OHM METER connected ;to your wire that you pulled OFF the switch.
> This will also work if you know exactly what you are doing, but the
> light bulb trick makes finding a problem like this easier and it is an
> ACTIVE versus a PASSIVE check. If the bulb is brightly lit, you have
a
> short circuit involved. Which is of course what you DO have. When th
e
> bulb goes out, or gets very dim... You just located the problem.
>
> You need to be more detailed with your explanation if you could please
.< BR>>
>
> There are NO SQUAT switches in the YAK-50. A SQUAT switch is one that
> closes when you LAND THE AIRPLANE and put weight on the landing gear.
> The YAK-50 does not have anything like that.
>
> Instead there are FOUR switches that control the landing gear lights o
n
> the 50. One switch for each light on the dash. There are two switche
s
> on the left side, and two switches on the RIGHT side. ONE SWITCH FOR
> EACH LIGHT! You are only seeing the switch&n bsp;back behind the gea
r
> actuator where the wheels go into the hole. There is ANOTHER switch
> that is located underneath a panel right behind the gear leg itself.
> The panel right behind that landing gear fiberglass shroud.
>
> I do not know of any electrical motors behind the instrument panel.
> There is of course the electrical inverter for the attitude indicator
> (if you still have it installed) behind the seat. At this point, I
> would not waste a lot of time looking for the weird noise... Since yo
u
> already have enough other weird crap already happening.
>
> You took the fairings off the wing root(s) and have access to the wiri
ng
> connections going out to the pitot probe and the switches. REMEMBER
> AGAIN... Two switches on each landing gear! Anyway, that is a good
> thing. You might want to do the same for the other side too, so that
> you can access that wiring, but I suspect the wiring short circuit is
> not out there.
>
> QUESTIONS:
>
> What h appens in the cockpit when you leave the instrument breaker OFF
> and just turn on the landing gear breaker?
> What happens when you turn on the instrument breaker and leave the
> landing gear breaker off?
>
> REALLY NEED TO KNOW THE ABOVE ANSWERS.
>
> What is obvious here is that when you apply voltage to wire 05-cw2-01
by
> connecting it to the switch and turning it on, the voltage through thi
s
> wire is shorting to some other WIRE that it should not be doing. The
> ;problem is that this wire is also obviously the main voltage feed fo
r
> the landing gear circuits. The voltage on this wire feeds to all four
> of the landing gear switches... The two UP switches and the two DOWN
> switches. Wires coming back from these switches then go to the light
> bulbs in the cockpit themselves and make them come on. So picture tha
t
> in your mind.... Voltage comes out this wire (the one hooked to the
> switch), and someplace goes to a terminal board and splits to go& nbsp
;out to
> all four switches. It then comes BACK from those switches and goes BA
CK
> into the instrument panel and to the lights themselves.
>
> Next, consider that you have had a problem on the LEFT side of the
> aircraft for quite some time. This has been a case where the landing
> gear DOWN switch has probably gone bad or is out of adjustment. Again
,
> you need to locate that switch, because that is yet another problem,
> probably not related to this current mess.
>
> ; The short circuit you are dealing with is probably NOT in the wings.
> When you pressed the switch on the right landing gear, and then the
> light for the left gear lit up, this is not a case of a wire switched
> around, this is a case of some wires that are SHORTED TOGETHER.
>
> So some advice.
>
> When describing what switches you are pushing in the future, make sure
> you name them correctly. One is for right gear down and locked. One
is
> for right gear UP and locked. Same thing for the left side. No squa
t
> switches ok?
>
> It appears that the wire that is shorted is one of the wires coming BA
CK
> from one of the switches TO the lights on the instrument panel. One o
f
> THOSE wires has shorted to another wire or wires causing all the other
> lights to come on. Most likely it is a short to the TEST SWITCH that
> causes all those other lights to come on. So to repeat, this is
> probably a dead short between&nbs p;one of the wires coming back from
the
> landing gear position switches, that is shorted to the TEST switch
> WIRING.
>
> To repeat again, the way I would try to find this would be to pull the
> 05-CW2-01 wire off the switch as you already had done. The install th
e
> 28 volt light bulb with the wires connected to it in series. It will
> go: switch, wire, bulb, wire, then hooked to the 05-CW2-01 wire itself
.
> In SERIES. You will then limit the current draw and will pose littl
e
> to zero risk of blowing anything up any further. When you turn on the
> switch, this light will come on brightly. If you want, you can put
> plenty of wire on the bulb and remote it out of the cockpit so it does
> not get in the way. Have someone watch this bulb like a hawk. Now ge
t
> your hands back in the wiring and start moving wires and wire bundles
> around... All over the place. When you see that light bulb start
> flickering wildly, you are on to p of the problem.
>
> A complete wiring diagram will be really handy. I do not have one.
> HOWEVER... This is not a case of a failed component. This is a case o
f
> some wires shorting together that were never meant to be. Wire
> CHAFFING, or rubbing under a clamp, etc.
>
> There is a very VERY small chance of a relay failing internally ...
> Literally falling apart inside, and shorting everything out that could
> cause this. This would be the light bulb TEST RELAY tha t is turned o
n
> with the light test push button, and we would definitely need the
> schematics to identify which relay this is. It is also possible that
> this relay got fried during this failure. So other than wiring, this
> would be the first component I would spot light for sure.
>
> Harry.. You're out on the west coast aren't you?
>
> Mark Bitterlich
> N50YK
>
> P.s. Rewiring the aircraft is a do-able thing, but man oh man, it wou
ld
> cost a small fortune.&nbs p;
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Harry
> Hirschman
> Sent: Monday, September 11, 2006 14:38
> To: Yaklist Yaklist
> Subject: Yak-List: Yak-50 Electrical System Troubleshooting
>
> --> Yak-List message posted by: Harry Hirschman <hairball192@yahoo.com
>
>
> All:
>
> I'd appreciate any assistance people are willing to provide to assist
me
> in troubleshooting my Yak-50's electrical system.
>
> Symptoms:
> 1. Chronic problem of the left gear down indicator light on or off-o
n
> when landing gear is up (with two red up-and-locked lights also on)
>
> 2. Recently all annunciator lights (all four gear indicators,
> generator, Over-G, chip, all cells on fuel
> ladder) flashing on-off; Last flight all annunciator lights were on an
d
> steady (same look as pushing the press-to-test by the gear handle)
>
> 3. My electrical switches are labeled "Gear" and "Inst"; The "Inst"
> switch controls the proper reading of the fuel l adder (ie: it reads t
he
> correct amount of fuel with this switch on), generator annunciator lig
ht
> and engine instruments; The "gear" switch controls the landing gear
> position indicator lights, all the light cells on the fuel ladder (sam
e
> as pushing the "k"
> button to test the fuel indicator), the chip light and the over-G ligh
t
>
> In troubleshooting over the weekend, I performed the following steps a
nd
> got the following results:
>
> 1. Turned on the following switches: Battery, inst, and gear; All
>&n bsp;annunciator lights came on, I heard what I think is some kind of
> electrical motor wind up for a few seconds, then the "Gear"
> switch-breaker flipped itself off and the associated annunciator light
s
> went off and the sound ceased
>
> 2. After cycling the switch a half dozen times with my head under the
> panel to try to locate the noise, the motor stopped coming on with the
> gear switch, but it continues to break to the off position after sever
al
> seconds in the on position; There is&n bsp;about a 2 amp draw with the
"gear"
> switch on as indicated by the aircraft guage; The noise was coming fro
m
> behind the instrument panel, but I couldn't locate the component
>
> 3. There are two wires attached to the "gear" switch; Removed the wir
e
> labeled 05-CW1 and turned on the batt, inst and gear switches with the
> same result -- 2 amp draw and gear switch breaks to off after several
> seconds
>
> 4. Removed the wire labeled 05-CW2-01 and turned on the batt, inst an
d
> ; gear switches and now the gear switch does not break, the elec syste
m
> remains on; The landing gear indicator lights, fuel ladder lights, chi
p
> light, and over-G light do not illuminate (proper fuel indication,
> generator light on, and engine instruments are powered) -- so the bad
> wire is this one, I think
>
> 5. Re-installed both wires and verified that the system fails in the
> same way as before
>
> 6. Friends manually held both landing gear position squat switches in
> the "gear -up" position and turned the electrical switches off with th
e
> same result -- Gear switch breaks to off after several seconds
>
> 7. Disconnected the left gear position squat switch at the bus bar in
> the wing root by removing the lower three of the four wires (I believe
> the top wire is for pitot heat) and turned on the batt, inst and gear
> switches -- GOT IT -- Same result as step 4 above -- Gear switch does
> not break, the elec system remains on with a right gear down gree n
> light; I'm fuzzy on this part, but I believe I did the push-to-test fo
r
> the annunciator lights and all worked EXCEPT the chip light and over-G
> light
>
> 8. And then the plot thickens -- With the electrical system on,
> manually depressed the RIGHT landing gear squat switch -- The RIGHT ge
ar
> down light went out and the LEFT gear up light went on (hopefully a
> simple crossed wire) AND got a 2.5 amp draw and the gear switch broke
to
> the off position after several seconds
>
> Only two things scare me and both of them are electricity, so I wouldn
't
> have been able to do any of this without the able help of some airport
> buds (Ken and John). I hope I've given those who know something about
> this enough information to narrow things down for me.
>
> I've got a couple of specific questions in addition to the overall
> recommendations I hope will be
> forthcoming:
>
> - What electrical component do you think was making the noise describe
d
> in t roubleshooting steps 1 and 2?
>
> - It looks like there are separate parts for the left and right landin
g
> gear squat switches; Is that true?
>
> - From anyone out there has removed the entire Russian electrical syst
em
> and rewired new, how much time and money did that take? Do you have a
> parts list for the new system?
>
> - Does anyone out there have an electrical diagram for the Yak-50?
>
> Many thanks in advance to everyone who's read this far and to those wh
o
> ;take the time to respond.
>
> Regards,
> Harry
>
> __________________________________________________
>
>
&========================
- The&np;Matronics List Features Navigator to browse
<html><P>Doc,</P>
<P>Schematic received, excellent, thanks very much.</P>
<P>Cliff<BR><BR>-- "Roger Kemp" <viperdoc@mindspring.c
om> wrote:<BR></P>
<META content="MSHTML 6.00.2900.2963" name=GENERATOR>
<DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="MS Sans Serif" size=2>Cliff,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="MS Sans Serif" size=2>Here is a emial version that
is the same as the hardcopy that I have. Hope it helps.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="MS Sans Serif" size=2>Doc</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV></DIV></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT:
5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt Arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black">
<B>From:</B> <A title=netmaster15@juno.com href="mailto:netmaster15@
juno.com">netmaster15@juno.com</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To: </B><A title=yak-list@matronics
.com href="mailto:yak-list@matronics.com">yak-list@matronics.com</A></
DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> 9/13/2006 11:21:27 PM </DIV
>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> RE: Yak-List: Yak-50 Ele
ctrical System Troubleshooting</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV><FONT size=2>
<P>Doc,</P>
<P>I would be most appreciative if you would fax me a wiring diagram of
the electrical system. My fax is : 1 828 321 0878. Thankyou. </P>
<P>Cliff<BR><BR>-- "Roger Kemp" <viperdoc@mindspring.c
om> wrote:<BR>--> Yak-List message posted 
;by: "Roger Kemp" <viperdoc@mindspring.com><BR><BR>
Good discription Mark, I am not an el
ectrician/avionics guy by any sense of<BR>the&n
bsp;word. Took in physics and remember a&n
bsp;thimb full. I will send you the<BR>wir
ing diagram I currently have courtesy of&n
bsp;Tim Gagnon. Credit be given<BR>where due.&n
bsp;Send me a fax # offline and when&
nbsp;I get back to the office<BR>tomorrow.<BR>D
oc<BR><BR><BR>> [Original Message]<BR>> From:
Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point,&n
bsp;MALS-14 64E<BR><mark.bitterlich@navy.mil&g t;.<BR>>&n
bsp;To: <yak-list@matronics.com><BR>> Date: 9/12
/2006 4:18:49 PM<BR>> Subject: RE: Yak-List:
Yak-50 Electrical System Troubleshooting<BR>><BR
>> --> Yak-List message posted by: "
Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point,<B
R>MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil><BR>><BR>>
; <BR>> Harry, I do not have 
;a 50 electrical diagram (Doc if you
have one, I'd<BR>> dearly love to get&n
bsp;a copy), but I have traced out a&
nbsp;lot of it, and most<BR>> of what&n
bsp;I have seen duplicates the 52 in
many ways. I am going to need<BR>>
; the full electrical&nbs p;diagram to help
you out further, but I have a l
ot of<BR>> comments to make here.  
;Also, please excuse my lack of tact, 
;I am an<BR>> EA-6B Avionics Tech Rep&n
bsp;by profession and I work on problems&n
bsp;like this<BR>> ALL the time. There
are a few general rules that you&nbs
p;always go by when<BR>> dealing with t
his type of nonsense. <BR>><BR>> A.
Always suspect what was last worked
on as the FIRST place you should<BR>
> look for a problem. If human&nb
sp;hands have recently been involved anywhere<B
R>> near wiri ng, and you now have 
;an electrical problem that you never had<
BR>> before... GO WHERE PEOPLE RECENTLY 
;PUT THEIR HANDS AND LOOK THERE FIRST.<BR>
> You'd be amazed at how often tha
t rule is ignored out of simple ego,&
nbsp;but<BR>> boy is it accurate! <BR>
><BR>> B. If you are dealing w
ith a system of wires, switches, lights,&n
bsp;etc.,<BR>> always suspect any part that&
nbsp;moves, like switches, as being the fi
rst<BR>> thing you check for failure. <
BR>><BR>> C. NEVER EVER reset a&nbs
p;circuit breaker more than once if it&nbs
p;pops.& nbsp; You<BR>> NEVER, EVER EVER 
;troubleshoot a problem like this by pulli
ng this wire,<BR>> or that wire, and&nb
sp;then turning on the breaker again to&nb
sp;see if it pops.<BR>> There are many&
nbsp;reasons for this, but the most obviou
s is that you can<BR>> easily end
up starting an electrical fire, and please
keep in mind where<BR>> the fuel
tanks are in your YAK-50. For exampl
e, let's say a wire was<BR>> arcing&nbs
p;out against your fuel tank. Not ha
rd to imagine since it is only<BR>>&nbs
p;inches away from your wiring. Eac h&nbs
p;time you reset that breaker you get<BR>&
gt; an ARC. Eventually the arc actua
lly cuts a hole in the tank and
now you<BR>> have gas fumes adding into
the mess. Explosion, fire, you name
it. You<BR>> can also generate a
wiring fire, even without gas involved.&n
bsp; Bottom<BR>> line, stop doing that
and never do it again... Please. Any
one that says<BR>> I am wrong in t
his regard is an idiot.... Avoid them.&nbs
p; <BR>><BR>> Ok. So y
ou now ask... How do I troubleshoot t
his problem WITHOUT doing<BR>> that?
The answer requires you to have a gra
sp of the basics of<BR>> electrically,
which you admitted that you do not ha
ve, but here we go, I<BR>> am goin
g to teach you one trick now and 
;anyone else who bothers to read<BR>> t
his. <BR>><BR>> You did exactly the
right thing when you took the wires&
nbsp;off the circuit<BR>> breaker/switch. Y
ou need to get an electrical meter an
d learn how to<BR>> read DC VOLTS
with it. It's pretty easy. Set 
;it to DC VOLTS, hook the<BR>> black&nb
sp;wire to aircraft& nbsp;ground (any good
bonding point in the aircraft<BR>> itself&nb
sp;to the frame) and then use the red
wire to touch a wire and read<BR>>
; voltage. Turn on your electrical m
aster.. The one marked BATTERY. Now<BR>&g
t; look at the switch going to the&nb
sp;gear. With the switch turned off, 
;one<BR>> side will have 28 volts on&nb
sp;it, and the other side will have N
O volts on<BR>> it. The side with
NO volts on it will be the one&
nbsp;we want to mess with<BR>> first. &
nbsp;In this case, you have already done&n
bsp;that pa rt... You have<BR>> located a&nb
sp;wire that if you pull it off, it&n
bsp;stops the problem. Luckily<BR>> nothing
that we know of blew up in the&
nbsp;process. God loves you. <BR>><BR
>> What you need to do now is 
;to learn how to troubleshoot to the
next<BR>> step. One good way to a
ccomplish this is by rigging the aircraft&
nbsp;so<BR>> that it limits the current 
;draw to this wire. The wire that&nb
sp;you found<BR>> is going to a short&n
bsp;circuit, and that is why the breaker&n
bsp;is popping.<BR>> You need to locate&
nb sp;some 28 volt light bulbs. If y
ou do not have any, I<BR>> will se
nd you some. Let me know. You&
nbsp;get about a 25 watt bulb rated a
t<BR>> 28 volts (again, I will be
glad to give you as many as you
need). You<BR>> solder two wires to&nb
sp;this light bulb. Now, hook one wi
re of the bulb (it<BR>> does not m
atter which one) to the terminal on t
he switch. Hook the<BR>> other wire&nb
sp;soldered to the light bulb to the
wire that you have hanging<BR>> that us
ed to connect to the switch.&nb sp; <B
R>><BR>> Now when you turn on your&n
bsp;switch, your light bulb will come on,&
nbsp;because<BR>> you have a short to g
round in the aircraft wiring SOMEPLACE. &n
bsp;But the<BR>> circuit breaker/switch will 
;NOT blow anymore, because the light bulb<
BR>> that you just installed in series&
nbsp;between the wire you pulled off, and<
BR>> the switch itself, will limit the&
nbsp;current to ONE AMP (plus or minus&nbs
p;a<BR>> tiny bit). All the wiring&nbs
p;and crap in the aircraft can handle 
;one amp<BR>> with ease. If you w
ant to lower the amoun t of current,
just use a<BR>> smaller bulb... For&nb
sp;example a 12 watt bulb would give
you a maximum<BR>> current draw of abou
t 1/2 amp. Current in this case 
;will be equal to<BR>> the wattage of&n
bsp;the bulb divided by the voltage.  
;<BR>><BR>> You can now start trying 
;to find the problem by tracing and r
emoving<BR>> other wires, as you were d
oing before, or simply by jiggling things<
BR>> around. <BR>><BR>> Some might&nb
sp;recommend that instead of doing it this
way, you simply use<BR>> an OHM M
ETER connected ;to your wire that you&nbs
p;pulled OFF the switch.<BR>> This will 
;also work if you know exactly what y
ou are doing, but the<BR>> light bulb&n
bsp;trick makes finding a problem like thi
s easier and it is an<BR>> ACTIVE
versus a PASSIVE check. If the bulb&
nbsp;is brightly lit, you have a<BR>> s
hort circuit involved. Which is of c
ourse what you DO have. When the<BR>
> bulb goes out, or gets very dim.
.. You just located the problem. <BR
>><BR>> You need to be more detailed
with your explanation if you could p
lease.< BR>><BR>><BR>> There are NO S
QUAT switches in the YAK-50. A SQUAT
switch is one that<BR>> closes when&nb
sp;you LAND THE AIRPLANE and put weight&nb
sp;on the landing gear.<BR>> The YAK-50 
;does not have anything like that. <
BR>><BR>> Instead there are FOUR switches
that control the landing gear lights 
;on<BR>> the 50. One switch for e
ach light on the dash. There are&nbs
p;two switches<BR>> on the left side, a
nd two switches on the RIGHT side. &n
bsp; ONE SWITCH FOR<BR>> EACH LIGHT! &n
bsp; You are only seeing the switch&n
bsp;back behind the gear<BR>> actuator where
the wheels go into the hole. T
here is ANOTHER switch<BR>> that is loc
ated underneath a panel right behind the&n
bsp;gear leg itself.<BR>> The panel right&nb
sp;behind that landing gear fiberglass shroud.<
BR>><BR>> I do not know of any
electrical motors behind the instrument panel.<
BR>> There is of course the electrical&
nbsp;inverter for the attitude indicator<BR>>&nbs
p;(if you still have it installed) behind&
nbsp;the seat. At this point, I<BR>>&n
bsp;would not waste a lot of time loo
king for the weird noise... Since you<BR>
> already have enough other weird crap&
nbsp;already happening. <BR>><BR>> You t
ook the fairings off the wing root(s) 
;and have access to the wiring<BR>> con
nections going out to the pitot probe 
;and the switches. REMEMBER<BR>> AGAIN...&n
bsp;Two switches on each landing gear! &nb
sp;Anyway, that is a good<BR>> thing. &
nbsp;You might want to do the same fo
r the other side too, so that<BR>> 
;you can access that wiring, but I su
spect the wiring short circuit is<BR>>
not out there. <BR>><BR>> QUESTIONS:&nbs
p;<BR>><BR>> What h appens in the cockpit
when you leave the instrument breaker&nbs
p;OFF<BR>> and just turn on the landing
gear breaker? <BR>> What happens 
;when you turn on the instrument breaker&n
bsp;and leave the<BR>> landing gear breaker&
nbsp;off? <BR>><BR>> REALLY NEED TO 
;KNOW THE ABOVE ANSWERS. <BR>><BR>> 
;What is obvious here is that when yo
u apply voltage to wire 05-cw2-01 by<BR>&g
t; connecting it to the switch and tu
rning it on, the voltage through this<BR>&
gt; wire is shorting to some other WI
RE that it should not be doing.  
;The<BR>> ;problem is that this wire i
s also obviously the main voltage feed&nbs
p;for<BR>> the landing gear circuits.
The voltage on this wire feeds to all
four<BR>> of the landing gear switches
... The two UP switches and the two&n
bsp;DOWN<BR>> switches. Wires coming back&n
bsp;from these switches then go to the&nbs
p;light<BR>> bulbs in the cockpit themselves
and make them come on. So pict
ure that<BR>> in your mind.... Voltage
comes out this wire (the one hooked t
o the<BR>> switch), and someplace goes
to a terminal board and splits to go&
amp; nbsp;out to<BR>> all four switches. &nb
sp;It then comes BACK from those switches&
nbsp;and goes BACK<BR>> into the instrument&
nbsp;panel and to the lights themselves. &
nbsp;<BR>><BR>> Next, consider that you h
ave had a problem on the LEFT side&nb
sp;of the<BR>> aircraft for quite some
time. This has been a case where&nbs
p;the landing<BR>> gear DOWN switch has 
;probably gone bad or is out of adjus
tment. Again,<BR>> you need to locate&
nbsp;that switch, because that is yet anot
her problem,<BR>> probably not related to&nb
sp;this current mess. <BR>><BR>> ; The&n
bsp;short circuit you are dealing with is&
nbsp;probably NOT in the wings.<BR>> When&nb
sp;you pressed the switch on the right&nbs
p;landing gear, and then the<BR>> light 
;for the left gear lit up, this is&nb
sp;not a case of a wire switched<BR>>&n
bsp;around, this is a case of some wi
res that are SHORTED TOGETHER. <BR>><B
R>> So some advice. <BR>><BR>> W
hen describing what switches you are pushi
ng in the future, make sure<BR>> you&nb
sp;name them correctly. One is for r
ight gear down and locked. One is<BR
>> for right gear UP and locked.
Same thing for the left side.
No squat<BR>> switches ok? <BR>><BR>>
It appears that the wire that is&nbs
p;shorted is one of the wires coming
BACK<BR>> from one of the switches TO&n
bsp;the lights on the instrument panel. &n
bsp;One of<BR>> THOSE wires has shorted 
;to another wire or wires causing all 
;the other<BR>> lights to come on. &nbs
p;Most likely it is a short to the&nb
sp;TEST SWITCH that<BR>> causes all those&nb
sp;other lights to come on. So to&nb
sp;repeat, this is<BR>> probably a dead 
;short between&nbs p;one of the wires comin
g back from the<BR>> landing gear posit
ion switches, that is shorted to the
TEST switch<BR>> WIRING. <BR>><BR>> T
o repeat again, the way I would try&n
bsp;to find this would be to pull the
<BR>> 05-CW2-01 wire off the switch as&
nbsp;you already had done. The install&nb
sp;the<BR>> 28 volt light bulb with the
wires connected to it in series. &nb
sp;It will<BR>> go: switch, wire, bulb, 
;wire, then hooked to the 05-CW2-01 wire&n
bsp;itself.<BR>> In SERIES. You will&
nbsp;then limit the current draw and will&
nbsp;pose little<BR>> to zero risk of
blowing anything up any further. When&nbs
p;you turn on the<BR>> switch, this lig
ht will come on brightly. If you&nbs
p;want, you can put<BR>> plenty of wire
on the bulb and remote it out o
f the cockpit so it does<BR>> not
get in the way. Have someone watch&n
bsp;this bulb like a hawk. Now get<B
R>> your hands back in the wiring
and start moving wires and wire bundles<BR
>> around... All over the place.
When you see that light bulb start<BR>>
flickering wildly, you are on to p o
f the problem. <BR>><BR>> A complet
e wiring diagram will be really handy.&nbs
p; I do not have one.<BR>> HOWEVER...&n
bsp;This is not a case of a failed&nb
sp;component. This is a case of<BR>>&n
bsp;some wires shorting together that were 
;never meant to be. Wire<BR>> CHAFFING
, or rubbing under a clamp, etc. &nbs
p;<BR>><BR>> There is a very VERY sm
all chance of a relay failing internally&n
bsp;...<BR>> Literally falling apart inside, 
;and shorting everything out that could<BR>>
cause this. This would be the
light bulb TEST RELAY tha t is turned 
;on<BR>> with the light test push butto
n, and we would definitely need the<BR>>
; schematics to identify which relay this&
nbsp;is. It is also possible that<BR>>
this relay got fried during this fai
lure. So other than wiring, this<BR>>&
nbsp;would be the first component I would&
nbsp;spot light for sure. <BR>><BR>>&nbs
p;Harry.. You're out on the west coast&nbs
p;aren't you? <BR>><BR>> Mark Bitterlich
<BR>> N50YK<BR>><BR>> P.s. Rewiring&
nbsp;the aircraft is a do-able thing, but&
nbsp;man oh man, it would<BR>> cost a&n
bsp;small fortune.&nbs p; <BR>><BR>><BR>><BR>>
<BR>><BR>><BR>> -----Original Message-----<BR>>&nb
sp;From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com<BR>> [mailto:o
wner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Har
ry<BR>> Hirschman<BR>> Sent: Monday, September
11, 2006 14:38<BR>> To: Yaklist Yaklis
t<BR>> Subject: Yak-List: Yak-50 Electrical
System Troubleshooting<BR>><BR>> --> Yak-List&nb
sp;message posted by: Harry Hirschman <hairb
all192@yahoo.com><BR>><BR>> All:<BR>> <BR>&g
t; I'd appreciate any assistance people ar
e willing to provide to assist me<BR>>&
nbsp;in troubleshooting my Yak-50's electrical
system.<BR>> <BR>> Symptoms:<BR>> 1.
Chronic problem of the left gear do
wn indicator light on or off-on<BR>> wh
en landing gear is up (with two red&n
bsp;up-and-locked lights also on) <BR>><BR>>&n
bsp;2. Recently all annunciator lights (a
ll four gear indicators,<BR>> generator, Ove
r-G, chip, all cells on fuel<BR>> ladde
r) flashing on-off; Last flight all annunc
iator lights were on and<BR>> steady (s
ame look as pushing the press-to-test by&n
bsp;the gear handle) <BR>><BR>> 3.
My electrical switches are labeled "Gear"
and "Inst"; The "Inst"<BR>> switch controls&
nbsp;the proper reading of the fuel l adde
r (ie: it reads the<BR>> correct amount
of fuel with this switch on), genera
tor annunciator light<BR>> and engine instru
ments; The "gear" switch controls the land
ing gear<BR>> position indicator lights, all
the light cells on the fuel ladder&n
bsp;(same<BR>> as pushing the "k"<BR>> bu
tton to test the fuel indicator), the 
;chip light and the over-G light<BR>><BR>>
; In troubleshooting over the weekend, I&n
bsp;performed the following steps and<BR>> g
ot the following results:<BR>><BR>> 1. &n
bsp;Turned on the following switches: Battery,&
nbsp;inst, and gear; All<BR>>&n bsp;annunciator&nb
sp;lights came on, I heard what I thi
nk is some kind of<BR>> electrical moto
r wind up for a few seconds, then&nbs
p;the "Gear"<BR>> switch-breaker flipped itself&n
bsp;off and the associated annunciator lights<B
R>> went off and the sound ceased
<BR>><BR>> 2. After cycling the swi
tch a half dozen times with my head&n
bsp;under the<BR>> panel to try to loca
te the noise, the motor stopped coming&nbs
p;on with the<BR>> gear switch, but it&
nbsp;continues to break to the off positio
n after several<BR>> seconds in the on&
nbsp;position; There is&n bsp;about a 2 amp
draw with the "gear"<BR>> switch on&nb
sp;as indicated by the aircraft guage; The
noise was coming from<BR>> behind the&
nbsp;instrument panel, but I couldn't locate&nb
sp;the component <BR>><BR>> 3. There&nbs
p;are two wires attached to the "gear"&nbs
p;switch; Removed the wire<BR>> labeled 05-C
W1 and turned on the batt, inst and&n
bsp;gear switches with the<BR>> same result&
nbsp;-- 2 amp draw and gear switch br
eaks to off after several<BR>> seconds
<BR>><BR>> 4. Removed the wire labe
led 05-CW2-01 and turned on the batt, 
;inst and<BR>> ; gear switches and now
the gear switch does not break, the e
lec system<BR>> remains on; The landing 
;gear indicator lights, fuel ladder lights,&nbs
p;chip<BR>> light, and over-G light do
not illuminate (proper fuel indication,<BR>> 
;generator light on, and engine instruments&nbs
p;are powered) -- so the bad<BR>> 
;wire is this one, I think <BR>><BR>>
; 5. Re-installed both wires and ver
ified that the system fails in the<BR>>
same way as before <BR>><BR>> 6.&nb
sp; Friends manually held both landing gea
r position squat switches in<BR>> the "
gear -up" position and turned the electrical&nb
sp;switches off with the<BR>> same result&nb
sp;-- Gear switch breaks to off after 
;several seconds <BR>><BR>> 7. Disconnec
ted the left gear position squat switch&nb
sp;at the bus bar in<BR>> the wing 
;root by removing the lower three of
the four wires (I believe<BR>> the top&
nbsp;wire is for pitot heat) and turned&nb
sp;on the batt, inst and gear<BR>> swit
ches -- GOT IT -- Same result as 
;step 4 above -- Gear switch does<BR>>&
nbsp;not break, the elec system remains on
with a right gear down gree n<BR>>&nbs
p;light; I'm fuzzy on this part, but
I believe I did the push-to-test for<BR>&g
t; the annunciator lights and all worked&n
bsp;EXCEPT the chip light and over-G<BR>>&nb
sp;light <BR>><BR>> 8. And then the
plot thickens -- With the electrical 
;system on,<BR>> manually depressed the RIGH
T landing gear squat switch -- The RI
GHT gear<BR>> down light went out and&n
bsp;the LEFT gear up light went on (h
opefully a<BR>> simple crossed wire) AND&nbs
p;got a 2.5 amp draw and the gear&nbs
p;switch broke to<BR>> the off position 
;after several seconds<BR>> <BR>> Only two&nbs
p;things scare me and both of them ar
e electricity, so I wouldn't<BR>> have
been able to do any of this without&n
bsp;the able help of some airport<BR>>
buds (Ken and John). I hope I've&nbs
p;given those who know something about<BR>>&
nbsp;this enough information to narrow things&n
bsp;down for me. <BR>> <BR>>
I've got a couple of specific questions&nb
sp;in addition to the overall<BR>> recommend
ations I hope will be<BR>> forthcoming:<BR>&
gt;<BR>> - What electrical component do 
;you think was making the noise described<
BR>> in t roubleshooting steps 1 and 2?
<BR>><BR>> - It looks like there&nb
sp;are separate parts for the left and&nbs
p;right landing<BR>> gear squat switches; Is
that true? <BR>><BR>> - From anyone
out there has removed the entire Rus
sian electrical system<BR>> and rewired new,
how much time and money did that&nbs
p;take? Do you have a<BR>> parts
list for the new system? <BR>><BR>>
- Does anyone out there have an elect
rical diagram for the Yak-50?<BR>><BR>> M
any thanks in advance to everyone who's&nb
sp;read this far and to those who<BR>>&
nbsp; ;take the time to respond.<BR>>
<BR>> Regards,<BR>> Harry<BR>><BR>> _________
_________________________________________<BR>><BR>><BR>><BR>>
;<BR>><BR>><BR>&================
========
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