Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:15 AM - Re: 601 HDS for sale (Jeffrey Glasserow)
2. 06:44 AM - Steering Rod Yamaha Rubber Boot (Bohannon Larry)
3. 07:27 AM - Yamaha boots (Tom Faulkner)
4. 07:58 AM - Re: Steering Rod Yamaha Rubber Boot (Jack Russell)
5. 08:30 AM - Re: 601 XL Nose Skin Bending (george may)
6. 08:34 AM - Re: drill bits (george may)
7. 09:03 AM - Re: 601 XL Nose Skin Bending (Mark Townsend)
8. 09:29 AM - Re: drill bits (Monty Graves)
9. 09:45 AM - Re: drill bits (Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis))
10. 09:49 AM - Yamaha boots (Zed Smith)
11. 10:01 AM - metalprep 79 and holes in rivets (Bohannon Larry)
12. 10:27 AM - Re: drill bits (george may)
13. 10:57 AM - Re: metalprep 79 and holes in rivets (N5SL)
14. 11:39 AM - Re: drill bits (Jean-Paul Roy)
15. 03:57 PM - Re: metalprep 79 and holes in rivets (Jean-Paul Roy)
16. 04:49 PM - Fuel pumps between nose ribs 2 and 3 601XL (Joemotis@aol.com)
17. 06:33 PM - Re: Fuel pumps between nose ribs 2 and 3 601XL (george may)
18. 06:50 PM - Re: Yamaha boots (Jeffrey Glasserow)
19. 07:18 PM - Re: drill bits (Jim Frisby)
20. 07:19 PM - Re: metalprep 79 and holes in rivets (Larry Martin)
21. 07:21 PM - 801 pictures (Rmtnview@aol.com)
22. 07:35 PM - Re: 801 pictures (Jon Croke)
23. 07:39 PM - Re: Fuel pumps between nose ribs 2 and 3 601XL (Cdngoose)
24. 08:07 PM - Joe's Fuel Pump installation. (Cdngoose)
25. 08:21 PM - More twist drills (Randy L. Thwing)
26. 09:20 PM - Re: Steering Rod Yamaha Rubber Boot (Ken Szewc)
27. 11:32 PM - Re: Zenith-List Digest: 34 Msgs - 02/08/05 (john butterfield)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | 601 HDS for sale |
clamav-milter version 0.80j
on hestia
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jeffrey Glasserow" <jeffglass@starband.net>
I paid $29,000 for mine and have no put about $4000 more into it. It has an
0-235, good radios, new paint.
Jeff
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Hinde, Frank
George (Corvallis)
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: 601 HDS for sale
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)"
<frank.hinde@hp.com>
Not sure I quite agree with this statement.
I got $31k into my HDS without paint. I have never seen an HDS with an
asking price of more than about $28 with paint.
Frank
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Barth
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: 601 HDS for sale
--> Zenith-List message posted by: David Barth <davids601xl@yahoo.com>
I think as a rule projects sell at a rather steep discount from the
costs involved. On aircraft with their test time flown off there is
probably a bit of a premium over the costs that could be had from a
sale. The difference between the expected premium and possible discount
is what you earn by completing and test flying the project (turning the
project into an aircarft) premium and discount you will have to
estimate in order to see if it is worth your time. Good Luck David do
not archive
Charles Heathco <cheathco@comcast.net> wrote:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Charles Heathco"
I bought a ready to fly HDS,Sub engine with Ram performance heads, taken
apart for hauling, back in Nov, and on the way to pick it up I bought a
flying RV. Probably should have reniged on the HDS deal, but Im the
"committed" type (not to be confused with relationships :-) ) Its apart
in my garage. Anyone interested? Also,if it was yours would you sell it
taken apart, or put it back together, get inspections, test fly and sell
then? I have pix of it together. Email me, Charlie Heathco
David Barth
601 XL Plansbuilder 15% done?
Working on Wings
www.ch601.org
---------------------------------
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Steering Rod Yamaha Rubber Boot |
0.50 MIME_BOUND_NEXTPART Spam tool pattern in MIME boundary
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bohannon Larry" <bohannon54@earthlink.net>
I'm installing the Yamaha bellows rubber boot for the steering rods on my 701.
Regarding the 3/4 " hole in the boot that needs to be reduced to the rod diameter
I have found several different bushings. One will reduced the hole to within
about 1/16 of the rod diameter and thus allow the rod to move freely through
the bushing. The other completely seals tight around the rod which allows no
movement of the rod through the bushing but it looks like the bellows will
allow enough push/pull to turn the nosewheel. Anybody who has installed the boots
please let me know what method you used. Thanks
Larry Bohannon
Winder, Georgia
Bohannon Larry
bohannon54@earthlink.net
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Tom Faulkner" <tomtafcor@triton.net>
Larry: I installed the Yamaha boots on my 801 and used a rubber grommet
to
fill the holes. They don't slide but it works fine.
Tom Faulkner
N801TP
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Steering Rod Yamaha Rubber Boot |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Jack Russell <clojan@sbcglobal.net>
Larry. I used a nut and washer on each side of the hole which means that the rod
is captive. Works fine. Jack in Clovis ca
Bohannon Larry <bohannon54@earthlink.net> wrote:--> Zenith-List message posted
by: "Bohannon Larry"
I'm installing the Yamaha bellows rubber boot for the steering rods on my 701.
Regarding the 3/4 " hole in the boot that needs to be reduced to the rod diameter
I have found several different bushings. One will reduced the hole to within
about 1/16 of the rod diameter and thus allow the rod to move freely through
the bushing. The other completely seals tight around the rod which allows no
movement of the rod through the bushing but it looks like the bellows will allow
enough push/pull to turn the nosewheel. Anybody who has installed the boots
please let me know what method you used. Thanks
Larry Bohannon
Winder, Georgia
Bohannon Larry
bohannon54@earthlink.net
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | 601 XL Nose Skin Bending |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "george may" <gfmjr_20@hotmail.com>
David& Mark
"There is a bit of a photo journal of
the really simple process we used at:
http://www.ch601.org/resources/Nose%20Skin/bending_a_nose_skin.htm"
This is a great bit of work. Sure is a simplified way to bend the leading
edges compared to others shown in the past.
Do not archive
George May
>
>---------------------------------
>
>
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "george may" <gfmjr_20@hotmail.com>
I tried using a borrowed Drill Doctor but just never got the hang of it.
Ended
up buying enough bits for the project. For the price, I use them till dull
then
toss them. Bought them at
http://www.advantage-drillbits.com
George
601XL
>From: "Jean-Paul Roy" <jean-paul.roy4@sympatico.ca>
>Reply-To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: Zenith-List: drill bits
>Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2005 18:53:37 -0500
>
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jean-Paul Roy"
><jean-paul.roy4@sympatico.ca>
>
>Hello, I found using a Drill Doctor sharpener is a great way of maintaining
>sharp drill bits. I got model 300 as a Christmas gift and I just love it.
>Keeps the bits as new condition.
>http://www.drilldoctor.com
>
>Hope this helps
>
>Jean-Paul Roy
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Carlos Sa" <carlosfsa@yahoo.com>
>To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Zenith-List: drill bits
>
>
> > --> Zenith-List message posted by: Carlos Sa <carlosfsa@yahoo.com>
> >
> > It may be the quality of the bits I buy localy, but I don't use them for
>too long.
> > I probably used a dozen or so when building the tail feathers.
> >
> > The difference between an old and a new bit is noticeable both during
>the
>drilling and after.
> >
> > Holes are much cleaner with a new bit. And, when drilling a "sandwich",
>an
>old drill bit will
> > create and turn burns between the parts, thus scratching them.
> >
> > Even under a cheap magnifying lens you can see when the bit is "formerly
>new".
> >
> > That's my story and I'm sticking to it.
> >
> > Happy building
> >
> > Carlos
> >
> > --- N5SL <nfivesl@yahoo.com> wrote:
> > > --> Zenith-List message posted by: N5SL <nfivesl@yahoo.com>
> > >
> > > Hi John:
> > >
> > > I purchased two drill bits at my rudder class from ZAC - One of each
>size. I built my horiz.
> > > stab, elevator and both wings before I ordered another two drill bits.
>I have built 3/4 of my
> > > fuselage with the two new bits. I used a 9.6-volt, 2-speed DeWalt
>cordless drill for most of
> > > the holes I drilled with these bits. I used the high speed which is
>less than 1600 rpm, but I
> > > don't know what it is.
> >
> >
>
>
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: 601 XL Nose Skin Bending |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Mark Townsend" <601xl@sympatico.ca>
Simple just got better, I have now finshed those pages on the Nose Skin not
5 min ago Check them out now! You will be amazed :-) I hope
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "george may" <gfmjr_20@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: 601 XL Nose Skin Bending
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "george may" <gfmjr_20@hotmail.com>
>
> David& Mark
>
> "There is a bit of a photo journal of
> the really simple process we used at:
>
> http://www.ch601.org/resources/Nose%20Skin/bending_a_nose_skin.htm"
>
> This is a great bit of work. Sure is a simplified way to bend the
leading
> edges compared to others shown in the past.
>
> Do not archive
>
> George May
> >
> >---------------------------------
> >
> >
>
>
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Monty Graves <mgraves@usmo.com>
Using the #40 drill bit first is pretty much standard in the industry,
except by Zenith. As well as using the #40 silver clecos before
redrilling. As Matt says the hole will be a lot neater. I believe the RV
series come pre drilled with #40 holes.
I also have found a lot of local steel supply yards, also carry drill bits
in bulk. Mine carries numbered bits too, for considerably less than the
air craft supply houses.
#40 are 80 cents per bit without shipping. And they are SUPER sharp... And
besides that..... its on the way to Lowes... :-)
I am not going to try and sharpen an 80 cent drill bit
Monty
At 08:08 PM 2/8/05 -0600, you wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Matt & Jo" <archermj@swbell.net>
>
I have started using a
>40 for everything and then redrilling with a 30 or 20. I am much happier
>with the results.
>
>Cheers
>
>Matt Archer
>www.zodiacxl.com
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
RV's come punched with smaller than #40 holes. These are then mostly
drilled out to #40 for the rivets....The rivets on RV skins are almost
all AN3 vs the AN4 pop rivets used on zenairs.
WOW...80 cent drill bits?...where.
Frank
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Monty
Graves
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: drill bits
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Monty Graves <mgraves@usmo.com>
Using the #40 drill bit first is pretty much standard in the industry,
except by Zenith. As well as using the #40 silver clecos before
redrilling. As Matt says the hole will be a lot neater. I believe the
RV series come pre drilled with #40 holes.
I also have found a lot of local steel supply yards, also carry drill
bits
in bulk. Mine carries numbered bits too, for considerably less than
the
air craft supply houses.
#40 are 80 cents per bit without shipping. And they are SUPER sharp...
And besides that..... its on the way to Lowes... :-)
I am not going to try and sharpen an 80 cent drill bit
Monty
At 08:08 PM 2/8/05 -0600, you wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Matt & Jo" <archermj@swbell.net>
>
I have started using a
>40 for everything and then redrilling with a 30 or 20. I am much
>happier with the results.
>
>Cheers
>
>Matt Archer
>www.zodiacxl.com
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Zed Smith <zsmith3rd@earthlink.net>
Seems to me that I wrote it down, maybe on the wall, but now I cant find it......
Were these boots from a snow machine?
And does anybody have the Yamaha part number?
Thanks,
Zed
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | metalprep 79 and holes in rivets |
0.50 MIME_BOUND_NEXTPART Spam tool pattern in MIME boundary
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bohannon Larry" <bohannon54@earthlink.net>
Yesterday I started to clean and prime and paint the metal rudder pedals on the
701 I'm building. This is the first steel part I have primed and I need some
advice and opinions on if what I'm doing is O.K. First I wore clean latex gloves
and washed the part with Dawn soap while scrubbing with maroon #7441 Scotchbite
that ZAC recommended a year or two ago. I then rinsed it real well. I then
sprayed it with Metalprep 79 that I bought from Aircraft Spruce,and scrubbed
with the scotchbrite. It really cleaned the metal and got the dark coating
off. I then hung it up wet to air dry. I didn't dry with a towel or anything because
I was afraid I might be putting some contaminants back on the part.. I
then went in the house for about 45 minutes for lunch. When I got back I looked
at the part to see if it was dry and was shocked to find rust on almost the
entire part! In just 45 minutes! I cleaned it off as best as I could and primed
with a self etch primer. I have also used the entir
e same procedure on a scrap piece of aluminum to test how the primer will work.
As far as cleaning both metals the metalprep works great and is the only thing
that will really get the handprints off. I never could get the handprints off
by just washing with Dawn.
Questions: 1. What are the opinions on the above procedure? It's easy and simple
and I don't care to use Alodine.
2. To avoid the fast rust should i dry with a clean cloth and/or hairdryer and
prime really quick?
3. Since the Dawn doesn't seem to get the handprints off should I eliminate this
step or maybe use the dawn 2nd after using the metal prep? Thought maybe it
would help neutralize any leftover acid from the metalprep?
4. The metalprep is phosphoric acid and glycol ether and water. Since this provides
an etch and the scotchbrite etches and the self etch primer also is this
ok or should I eliminate something?
5. Regarding the holes in the rivets. I plan to use the metalprep on the whole
plane and although I will rinse well I was thinking about what sort of effect
the metalprep (phosphoric acid) might have on the stems in the rivet holes. They
might not get rinsed real well. I don't know what they are made out of but
if it is some sort of steel I was afraid it might start an immediate rust since
I won't be able to dry inside the hole except by air drying.
Any and all opinions and/or comments are appreciated.
Larry Bohannon
Winder, Georgia
Bohannon Larry
bohannon54@earthlink.net
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "george may" <gfmjr_20@hotmail.com>
Frank--
Check out this link. I ended up paying about .50 cents for #30's & 40's
http://www.advantage-drillbits.com
George
>From: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
>Reply-To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: Zenith-List: drill bits
>Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2005 09:44:43 -0800
>
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)"
><frank.hinde@hp.com>
>
>RV's come punched with smaller than #40 holes. These are then mostly
>drilled out to #40 for the rivets....The rivets on RV skins are almost
>all AN3 vs the AN4 pop rivets used on zenairs.
>
>WOW...80 cent drill bits?...where.
>
>Frank
>
>Do not archive
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Monty
>Graves
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Zenith-List: drill bits
>
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: Monty Graves <mgraves@usmo.com>
>
>Using the #40 drill bit first is pretty much standard in the industry,
>except by Zenith. As well as using the #40 silver clecos before
>redrilling. As Matt says the hole will be a lot neater. I believe the
>RV series come pre drilled with #40 holes.
>
>I also have found a lot of local steel supply yards, also carry drill
>bits
>in bulk. Mine carries numbered bits too, for considerably less than
>the
>air craft supply houses.
>
>#40 are 80 cents per bit without shipping. And they are SUPER sharp...
>And besides that..... its on the way to Lowes... :-)
>
>I am not going to try and sharpen an 80 cent drill bit
>
>Monty
>
>
>At 08:08 PM 2/8/05 -0600, you wrote:
> >--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Matt & Jo" <archermj@swbell.net>
> >
> I have started using a
> >40 for everything and then redrilling with a 30 or 20. I am much
> >happier with the results.
> >
> >Cheers
> >
> >Matt Archer
> >www.zodiacxl.com
>
>
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: metalprep 79 and holes in rivets |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: N5SL <nfivesl@yahoo.com>
Larry:
I left my rudder pedals and some other parts with a plating company last week and
asked them to apply an industrial chrome. It's not shiny like a mirror, but
has more of a satin look. I think any paint you apply will tend to rub off.
Powder coating would be my second choice after the chrome. I think it was Jeff
Small's plane I saw the chrome application and it looked fantastic. The quoted
cost for the pedals, steering rods, nose gear and steps was $95. I found
them in the phone book under "Plating."
I'll post photos when I pick up the parts.
Scott Laughlin
N5SL(Reserved)
www.cooknwithgas.com
Bohannon Larry <bohannon54@earthlink.net> wrote:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bohannon Larry"
Yesterday I started to clean and prime and paint the metal rudder pedals on the
701 I'm building.
---------------------------------
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jean-Paul Roy" <jean-paul.roy4@sympatico.ca>
Hi, have you paid close attention to centering your bit with the centering
device. It took me 2-3 times before I got the real hang of it. I watched the
video a couple of time to realize that when centering your bit you have to
turn it until it comes to the narrowest point and clik into it. Works every
time now, small or big.
Jean-Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy Culp" <randy_culp@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: drill bits
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Randy Culp" <randy_culp@hotmail.com>
>
> I got the Drill Doctor 3000 for Christmas....and; well...so far I'm not
> super impressed with the results.
>
> Maybe it's just me; but I have real trouble getting anything close to a
> correct grind on these small bits. There are instructions with it for
> sharpenning small bits, but I didn't find that they helped much. My
overall
> impression was that the Drill Dr is really designed for use for larger
bits.
> Maybe its is just me....I certainly haven't given up yet....I'm still
> trying to get a good point. It was a lot easier on the #20 bits, than the
> #30's.
>
> And while we are on the topic of drilling......I use a electric (plug in
> drill) to drill my holes. I found a cordless was way too slow to produce
> good results, and I didn't really want the noise/hassle of a compressor
> running and dragging a big hose around. so I started looking for a
highspeed
> plug in drill. It took me a while to find one, but I'm very happy with
what
> I found.
>
> It is a pretty rare Makita model. I just bought it new a few months ago:
> The Makita model # is 6501, and there is info on Makita's website about
it.
> It has a 1/4" chuck and 4,500 rpm speed (no variable speed unfortunately).
> It seems to be a specialty drill for people like us who want to drill
small
> diameter holes in metal and therefore need a highspeed relatively low
power
> drill. Mine works great spins the bit nice and fast for nearly burr-less
> holes. The drill is nice and small too.....smaller than a regular corded
> drill, and easy to handle. It even comes with a depth stop with a rubber
> tip on it.
>
> It cost me $80 from Amazon (ie: the old "Tool Crib of the North"), but
> unfortunately I bought the last one they had back in the fall and now they
> say that it is out of stock/discontinued. It seems to be a pretty common
> model in the UK, but not very easy to find here in the US/Canada.
>
> I figured that was a lot better deal than paying $200+ for a nice Souix
> pnuematic highspeed drill.
>
>
> Randy
> XL, Jabiru(probably?), just starting the wings.
>
> >From: Rmtnview@aol.com Reply-To: zenith-list@matronics.com To:
> >zenith-list@matronics.com Subject: Re: Zenith-List: drill bits Date: Tue,
8
> >Feb 2005 19:57:44 EST
> >
> >--> Zenith-List message posted by: Rmtnview@aol.com
> >
> >I was about to ask about a Drill Dr. when this post came up. What a
> >coincidence. When I went to the web site, they spoke of the normal 118
> >degree bit sharpener and (of coarse for more money) a sharpener that
does
> >135 degree points "for metal". Is this necessary or are the bits we use
> >normally, the 118 degree anyway? At first I thought "for that much money,
I
> >can buy a lot of bits". But then I thought, "not at 1:00 in the morning
> >when I'm in the shop some Friday night and I pick up my last bit and I
> >can't tell which end of the bit I should put in the chuck". That thing
> >just might be something nice to have. So if I'm going to acquire such,
is
> >it worth it to get the fancy/dancy model? As soon as I get this table
> >built, flat, level, square, smooth, straight, plumb, PERFECT, then I can
> >start on my 801 tail section. Thanks you'uns. rog
> >
> >
> >Forums.
> >
> >
>
> Dont just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search!
> http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
>
>
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: metalprep 79 and holes in rivets |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jean-Paul Roy" <jean-paul.roy4@sympatico.ca>
Ther is a company in Canada that does CERMAKROME.
For information on cermakrome, go to the RLD Industries, Ottawa, Ontario,
Canada web site. www.rldindustries.com This company coated my muffler on my
plane 200 hrs ago. I have never cleaned or polished my exhaust since and it
still looks like new.
For your infos.
J.P.
----- Original Message -----
From: "N5SL" <nfivesl@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: metalprep 79 and holes in rivets
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: N5SL <nfivesl@yahoo.com>
>
> Larry:
>
> I left my rudder pedals and some other parts with a plating company last
week and asked them to apply an industrial chrome. It's not shiny like a
mirror, but has more of a satin look. I think any paint you apply will tend
to rub off. Powder coating would be my second choice after the chrome. I
think it was Jeff Small's plane I saw the chrome application and it looked
fantastic. The quoted cost for the pedals, steering rods, nose gear and
steps was $95. I found them in the phone book under "Plating."
>
> I'll post photos when I pick up the parts.
>
> Scott Laughlin
> N5SL(Reserved)
> www.cooknwithgas.com
>
> Bohannon Larry <bohannon54@earthlink.net> wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bohannon Larry"
>
> Yesterday I started to clean and prime and paint the metal rudder pedals
on the 701 I'm building.
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Fuel pumps between nose ribs 2 and 3 601XL |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Joemotis@aol.com
Hi list,
I have found the lost pictures of my fuel pump setup and will e mail them to
anyone interested. Drop me a line off list. Also, still looking for the pics
of the worktable jacks using pony clamps. I am sure to find them eventually!
Joe Motis
601XL
Do not archive
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Fuel pumps between nose ribs 2 and 3 601XL |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "george may" <gfmjr_20@hotmail.com>
Joe--
Why not post them on www.ch601.org? I'm sure lots of XL builders
would be interested
George
>From: Joemotis@aol.com
>Reply-To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Zenith-List: Fuel pumps between nose ribs 2 and 3 601XL
>Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2005 19:48:29 EST
>
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: Joemotis@aol.com
>
>Hi list,
>I have found the lost pictures of my fuel pump setup and will e mail them
>to
>anyone interested. Drop me a line off list. Also, still looking for the
>pics
>of the worktable jacks using pony clamps. I am sure to find them
>eventually!
>
>
>Joe Motis
>601XL
>
>Do not archive
>
>
On the road to retirement? Check out MSN Life Events for advice on how to
get there! http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=Retirement
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
clamav-milter version 0.80j
on cepheus
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jeffrey Glasserow" <jeffglass@starband.net>
Search the zenith archives for the article. IF you can't find it I will get
you the part #'s Search for Rudder pedal boots.
Jeff Glasserow
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Zed Smith
Subject: Zenith-List: Yamaha boots
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Zed Smith <zsmith3rd@earthlink.net>
Seems to me that I wrote it down, maybe on the wall, but now I cant find
it......
Were these boots from a snow machine?
And does anybody have the Yamaha part number?
Thanks,
Zed
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jim Frisby" <n801za@hotmail.com>
I had heard that the Drill Doctor didnt' work well on small bits, like 3/32,
#40. I'd buy one if I knew different. How does yours work on small bits?
Thanks
Jim Frisby
Palmer, AK
N801ZA
>Time: 03:58:05 PM PST US
>From: "Jean-Paul Roy" <jean-paul.roy4@sympatico.ca>
>Subject: Re: Zenith-List: drill bits
>
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jean-Paul Roy"
><jean-paul.roy4@sympatico.ca>
>
>Hello, I found using a Drill Doctor sharpener is a great way of maintaining
>sharp drill bits. I got model 300 as a Christmas gift and I just love it.
>Keeps the bits as new condition.
>http://www.drilldoctor.com
>
>Hope this helps
>
>Jean-Paul Roy
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: metalprep 79 and holes in rivets |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry Martin" <lrm@isp.com>
Mr. Bohannon, too many Larrys here, actually I don't normally use any kind
of soap on bare metal, your acid will clean anything on it. Use paper
towels to dry, then wipe it down with acetone or alcohol, both will clean
anything off and evaporate and dry very quickly. If you have any thing like
scratches or rust, use 320 sandpaper, wipe it down again, then prime and
paint. You are putting way too much wasted effort in it. Larry, N1345L
www.angelfire.com/un/ch701
PS, I got your order for the tips, will make them soon.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bohannon Larry" <bohannon54@earthlink.net>
Subject: Zenith-List: metalprep 79 and holes in rivets
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bohannon Larry"
<bohannon54@earthlink.net>
>
> Yesterday I started to clean and prime and paint the metal rudder pedals
on the 701 I'm building. This is the first steel part I have primed and I
need some advice and opinions on if what I'm doing is O.K. First I wore
clean latex gloves and washed the part with Dawn soap while scrubbing with
maroon #7441 Scotchbite that ZAC recommended a year or two ago. I then
rinsed it real well. I then sprayed it with Metalprep 79 that I bought from
Aircraft Spruce,and scrubbed with the scotchbrite. It really cleaned the
metal and got the dark coating off. I then hung it up wet to air dry. I
didn't dry with a towel or anything because I was afraid I might be putting
some contaminants back on the part.. I then went in the house for about 45
minutes for lunch. When I got back I looked at the part to see if it was dry
and was shocked to find rust on almost the entire part! In just 45 minutes!
I cleaned it off as best as I could and primed with a self etch primer. I
have also used the entir
> e same procedure on a scrap piece of aluminum to test how the primer will
work. As far as cleaning both metals the metalprep works great and is the
only thing that will really get the handprints off. I never could get the
handprints off by just washing with Dawn.
> Questions: 1. What are the opinions on the above procedure? It's easy and
simple and I don't care to use Alodine.
> 2. To avoid the fast rust should i dry with a clean cloth and/or hairdryer
and prime really quick?
> 3. Since the Dawn doesn't seem to get the handprints off should I
eliminate this step or maybe use the dawn 2nd after using the metal prep?
Thought maybe it would help neutralize any leftover acid from the metalprep?
> 4. The metalprep is phosphoric acid and glycol ether and water. Since this
provides an etch and the scotchbrite etches and the self etch primer also is
this ok or should I eliminate something?
> 5. Regarding the holes in the rivets. I plan to use the metalprep on the
whole plane and although I will rinse well I was thinking about what sort of
effect the metalprep (phosphoric acid) might have on the stems in the rivet
holes. They might not get rinsed real well. I don't know what they are made
out of but if it is some sort of steel I was afraid it might start an
immediate rust since I won't be able to dry inside the hole except by air
drying.
> Any and all opinions and/or comments are appreciated.
>
> Larry Bohannon
> Winder, Georgia
>
>
> Bohannon Larry
> bohannon54@earthlink.net
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
> Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.8.5 - Release Date: 2/3/2005
>
>
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Message 21
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Rmtnview@aol.com
Does anyone have or know where I could find good pictures of an 801 (other
than the Zenith site) that could be used for a desktop? I need a fix. Thanks.
rog
Roger Osborne
Looking at tail kit crate
rmtnview@aol.com
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DowninFlames
Message 22
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: 801 pictures |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Jon Croke" <jon@joncroke.com>
Well,,,, I would like to think that Ben's pictures at
http://ch701.com/builders/Ben%20Haas/Ben_Haas.htm are awfully good....
Jon
moderator@ch701.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <Rmtnview@aol.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: 801 pictures
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Rmtnview@aol.com
>
> Does anyone have or know where I could find good pictures of an 801 (other
> than the Zenith site) that could be used for a desktop? I need a fix.
> Thanks.
> rog
>
> Roger Osborne
> Looking at tail kit crate
> rmtnview@aol.com
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DowninFlames
>
>
>
Message 23
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Fuel pumps between nose ribs 2 and 3 601XL |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Cdngoose" <601xl@sympatico.ca>
Actually George, Joe sent me the pictures on November 11th and they were
posted in the Builders Resources page under the 601XL section. Everyone
can go there to see them. This should save Joe some E-Mail time.
Mark Townsend
Alma, Ontario
Zodiac 601XL EJ 2.2L
Osprey 2 serial # 751
www.ch601.org
www.Osprey2.com
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "george may" <gfmjr_20@hotmail.com>
Joe--
Why not post them on www.ch601.org? I'm sure lots of XL builders
would be interested
George
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: Joemotis@aol.com
>
>Hi list,
>I have found the lost pictures of my fuel pump setup and will e mail
them
>to
>anyone interested. Drop me a line off list. Also, still looking for the
>pics
>of the worktable jacks using pony clamps. I am sure to find them
>eventually!
>
>
>Joe Motis
>601XL
>
>Do not archive
>
Message 24
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Joe's Fuel Pump installation. |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Cdngoose" <601xl@sympatico.ca>
It would seem that I missed a few pictures Joe had sent me of his fuel
installation, I have uploaded them to the same page on the www.ch601.org
website and now they are ready for your viewing.
Mark Townsend
Alma, Ontario
Zodiac 601XL EJ 2.2L
Osprey 2 serial # 751
www.ch601.org
www.ch701.com
www.Osprey2.com
Message 25
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | More twist drills |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Randy L. Thwing" <n4546v@mindspring.com>
This discussion has turned to drill cost so below are two links to MSC
Industrial Supply catalogue pages. This link is to their page featuring 118
degree, High Speed steel standard point, polished flute drills:
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNPDFF?PMPAGE=15&PARTPG=NNLMK32
Note that for every drill size they offer 5 levels of quality of a like
geometry tool. Prices begin at 45 cents for a No. 30 "import" quality.
This link is for the 135 degree, cobalt steel split point, polished flute
drills:
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNPDFF?PMPAGE=24&PARTPG=NNLMK32
Here again they offer the same size and geometry drill in 6 levels of
quality beginning with a "production import" at $ 1.01 for a No. 30.
Note the terminology difference between "import" and "production import".
Import is exactly that and can be mediocre quality whereas production import
implies a tool of such quality that can be used in a production situation
(such as building ZA airplanes?). I buy from this Company often and no
longer buy the "import" level of tool. I often buy the "production import"
which is usually a good quality item. I buy a lot of the generic "Made in
USA" tools which has always resulted in a good usable tool. If the
situation warrants, I sometimes buy the named brand tools which are of high
quality and consistent.
The big point here is that there is a quality and price level to suit all
needs. These pages provide a quick comparison as to how all levels in the
market are priced, the bigger the name, the more expensive the tool. Is
there a quality difference between Precision twist drill, Chicago-Latrobe,
or Cleveland twist drill? I have used all three and many more brands and
they are all high quality tool, usually made to the same industrial
standards.
The above links are long and may wrap after transmission, so be sure you get
the whole link.
The choices we have in today's market are just extraordinary. You can
request MSC's catalogue, it's a biggie, over 4000 pages, also available on
CD. Their web address is:
www.mscdirect.com
Regards,
Randy L. Thwing, Las Vegas
Message 26
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Steering Rod Yamaha Rubber Boot |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Ken Szewc <szewc@direcway.com>
I lathed a dumbbell shape out of a Delrin rod, then drilled and tapped
it for the size of the steering rods. The width and diameter of the
narrow part matched the width and diameter of the hole in the end of the
boot. I had already installed the rods so I then cut them in half and
installed them in the 3/4 inch end of the boot. I then put a zip tie
around the outside of the boot. Plugged the hole very nice and they stay
put on the threaded rod. Did any of that make sense?
With 850 pictures of my project, I would have thought that I would have
had a picture of the steering rod boots, but I can't seem to find one.
Ken Szewc
N701SZ 80 hrs
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bohannon
Larry
Subject: Zenith-List: Steering Rod Yamaha Rubber Boot
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bohannon Larry"
<bohannon54@earthlink.net>
I'm installing the Yamaha bellows rubber boot for the steering rods on
my 701. Regarding the 3/4 " hole in the boot that needs to be reduced to
the rod diameter I have found several different bushings. One will
reduced the hole to within about 1/16 of the rod diameter and thus allow
the rod to move freely through the bushing. The other completely seals
tight around the rod which allows no movement of the rod through the
bushing but it looks like the bellows will allow enough push/pull to
turn the nosewheel. Anybody who has installed the boots please let me
know what method you used. Thanks
Larry Bohannon
Winder, Georgia
Bohannon Larry
bohannon54@earthlink.net
Message 27
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Zenith-List Digest: 34 Msgs - 02/08/05 |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: john butterfield <jdbutterfield@yahoo.com>
thanks for the info on the drill bits and motors
john Butterfield xl
do not archive
--- Zenith-List Digest Server
<zenith-list-digest@matronics.com> wrote:
> *
>
> ==================================================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> ==================================================
>
> Today's complete Zenith-List Digest can also be
> found in either of the
> two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes
> the Digest formatted
> in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features
> Hyperlinked Indexes
> and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the
> plain ASCII version
> of the Zenith-List Digest and can be viewed with a
> generic text editor
> such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
> HTML Version:
>
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/digest/zenith-list/Digest.Zenith-List.2005-02-08.html
>
> Text Version:
>
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/digest/zenith-list/Digest.Zenith-List.2005-02-08.txt
>
>
> ================================================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> ================================================
>
>
>
>
> Zenith-List Digest
> Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Tue
> 02/08/05: 34
>
>
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
> 1. 01:00 AM - Jilson snips (Howard Carter)
> 2. 02:09 AM - Re: Jilson snips (Gary)
> 3. 04:17 AM - Turn & Bank noise, PTT Squawk,
> Oil Cooler opening with Jab3300
> (charles.long@gm.com)
> 4. 05:51 AM - Factory Tidbits (Al Young)
> 5. 06:58 AM - 601 HDS for sale (Charles
> Heathco)
> 6. 07:23 AM - Re: 601 HDS for sale (Hinde,
> Frank George (Corvallis))
> 7. 07:30 AM - LSA Legal or Not? (Paul Moore)
> 8. 07:49 AM - N601BZ web site has moved
> (BillSewell@aol.com)
> 9. 07:50 AM - Re: LSA Legal or Not? (Hinde,
> Frank George (Corvallis))
> 10. 08:42 AM - Corvair College in New England
> (Hodgson, Mark O)
> 11. 09:18 AM - Re: 601 HDS for sale (Grady
> Adams)
> 12. 11:59 AM - Re: New Builders Warning (Kent
> Brown)
> 13. 12:17 PM - Re: Re: Zenith-List Digest: 14
> Msgs - 02/05/05 (N5SL)
> 14. 12:35 PM - Re: New Builders Warning (Mark
> Townsend)
> 15. 12:36 PM - 601 XL Nose Skin Bending (David
> Barth)
> 16. 12:46 PM - Re: 601 HDS for sale (David
> Barth)
> 17. 12:59 PM - Just a test... (Beckman, Rick)
> 18. 01:12 PM - Re: 601 HDS for sale (Hinde,
> Frank George (Corvallis))
> 19. 01:23 PM - drill bits (Carlos Sa)
> 20. 03:23 PM - question Me262 article: OFF Topic
> (kevinbonds)
> 21. 03:58 PM - Re: drill bits (Jean-Paul Roy)
> 22. 03:59 PM - Re: Pietenpol-List: Corvair
> College in New England (Kip and Beth Gardner)
> 23. 04:12 PM - Re: 601HD instrument panel
> (Rick)
> 24. 04:41 PM - Re: 601 HDS for sale (Don
> Walker)
> 25. 04:58 PM - Re: drill bits
> (Rmtnview@aol.com)
> 26. 05:01 PM - Re: New Builders Warning (Kent
> Brown)
> 27. 05:23 PM - Re: drill bits (Jean-Paul Roy)
> 28. 05:26 PM - Re: drill bits (Randy Culp)
> 29. 06:09 PM - Re: drill bits (Matt & Jo)
> 30. 07:17 PM - Re: New Builders Warning
> (Joemotis@aol.com)
> 31. 07:24 PM - Dirt Dobber Repellent (Larry
> Martin)
> 32. 07:31 PM - Twist Drills (Randy L. Thwing)
> 33. 11:04 PM - F/S: original CAD 601 plans
> (Sigma Eta Aero)
> 34. 11:30 PM - Re: Dirt Dobber Repellent (Bryan
> Martin)
>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 1
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 01:00:39 AM PST US
> From: Howard Carter <howado@cwia.com>
> Subject: Zenith-List: Jilson snips
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Howard Carter
> <howado@cwia.com>
>
> Would someone please tell me where to buy these
> snips? I've been
> looking for something better than Wiss for some
> time.
> Thanks.
>
> Howard Carter
> howado@cwia.com
>
> do not archive
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 2
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 02:09:37 AM PST US
> From: "Gary" <gary@digilume.com>
> Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Jilson snips
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Gary"
> <gary@digilume.com>
>
> Howard
> There are 2 types in the www.aircraft-tool.com
> catalogue
> parts J1451 Jilson Supersnip shears @39.95 and JS12
> Monodex 26.95
> 1-800-248-0638. Use search feature of the website
>
> do not archive
>
> Gary
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com]On
> Behalf Of Howard
> Carter
> Subject: Zenith-List: Jilson snips
>
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Howard Carter
> <howado@cwia.com>
>
> Would someone please tell me where to buy these
> snips? I've been
> looking for something better than Wiss for some
> time.
> Thanks.
>
> Howard Carter
> howado@cwia.com
>
> do not archive
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 3
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 04:17:51 AM PST US
> Subject: Zenith-List: Turn & Bank noise, PTT Squawk,
> Oil Cooler opening with Jab3300
> From: charles.long@gm.com
> 20, 2004) at 02/08/2005 07:15:54 AM,
> Serialize complete at 02/08/2005 07:15:54 AM
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by:
> charles.long@gm.com
>
> I also have the background Turn and Bank
> (Falcon)
=== message truncated ===
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|