Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:57 AM - Source for canopy? (Brett Hanley)
2. 01:11 AM - disadvantage to a tinted canopy? (Brett Hanley)
3. 01:45 AM - Re: Source for canopy? (Craig Payne)
4. 02:56 AM - Re: Ejecting the canopy on the 601 (Bryan Martin)
5. 02:58 AM - Re: Re: Canopy front seal (Bryan Martin)
6. 03:02 AM - Re: disadvantage to a tinted canopy? (Bryan Martin)
7. 03:53 AM - Re: Kinda off subject (David Downey)
8. 04:11 AM - Re: Source for canopy? (Robin Bellach)
9. 04:14 AM - disadvantage to tinted canopy? (Robin Bellach)
10. 05:08 AM - Re: gasoline and paint (Gordon)
11. 05:12 AM - 601 Canopys ()
12. 06:47 AM - Re: Source for canopy?- ouch (Big Gee)
13. 07:13 AM - Re: disadvantage to a tinted canopy? (LarryMcFarland)
14. 07:30 AM - Re: gasoline and paint (LarryMcFarland)
15. 07:47 AM - Re: Re: Canopy front seal (paul baker)
16. 08:38 AM - canopy triming (john butterfield)
17. 08:40 AM - Firewall seal (Joe)
18. 09:04 AM - 601XL catalog on ZAC's website (TxDave)
19. 09:06 AM - orangepeel in clear coat (richard priebus)
20. 09:43 AM - 601HDS: O/BWing - Aileron photo request (ZAC Plans attack!) (Mitch Hodges)
21. 09:50 AM - Re:Firewall seal (RURUNY@aol.com)
22. 10:38 AM - Re: 601XL catalog on ZAC's website (JohnDRead@aol.com)
23. 10:54 AM - Re: Source for canopy?- ouch (Craig Payne)
24. 11:13 AM - Re: 601XL catalog on ZAC's website (TxDave)
25. 11:14 AM - Re: Source for canopy?- ouch (Gary Boothe)
26. 11:15 AM - 601XL catalog on ZAC's website (Robin Bellach)
27. 11:22 AM - Re: canopy triming (Bryan Martin)
28. 11:31 AM - Re: Firewall seal (Bryan Martin)
29. 11:50 AM - Re: orangepeel in clear coat (Mark Sherman)
30. 12:09 PM - Rudder Horn Installation on 701 (Tom Lutz)
31. 12:10 PM - Re:Firewall seal (RURUNY@aol.com)
32. 01:12 PM - CH701 Firewall Forward Kit (Pete Krotje)
33. 02:05 PM - E-LSA - CH701 kit built airplane (Harrison-Hutcheson)
34. 02:37 PM - sandwich construction (LarryMcFarland)
35. 02:42 PM - Re: 601XL catalog on ZAC's website (Gig Giacona)
36. 03:05 PM - Re: 601XL catalog on ZAC's website (Bill Naumuk)
37. 03:11 PM - Re: canopy triming (Jeff Davidson)
38. 03:46 PM - Re: 601HDS: O/BWing - Aileron photo request (ZAC Plans attack!) (Bill Naumuk)
39. 04:47 PM - Re: orangepeel in clear coat (n801bh@netzero.com)
40. 04:52 PM - Re: Aileron cable clearance and installation (N601RT)
41. 05:00 PM - Re: 601HDS: O/BWing - Aileron photo request (ZAC Plans attack!) (Hodges, Mitch)
42. 05:08 PM - Re: E-LSA - CH701 kit built airplane (Bryan Martin)
43. 05:57 PM - Re: orangepeel in clear coat (LRM)
44. 06:26 PM - Re: 601HDS: O/BWing - Aileron photo request (ZAC Plans attack!) (Bill Naumuk)
45. 06:37 PM - HDS Cattycorner brace (Bill Naumuk)
46. 07:04 PM - Re: 601HDS: O/BWing - Aileron photo request (ZAC Plans attack!) (Hodges, Mitch)
47. 07:22 PM - Re: 601HDS: O/BWing - Aileron photo request (ZAC Plans attack!) (Bill Naumuk)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Source for canopy? |
Does anyone have an alternate source for a 601 canopy?
Brett
Message 2
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| Subject: | disadvantage to a tinted canopy? |
Are there any serious disadvantages to using a tinted canopy? I would like to
get some thoughts from someone that is flying with one. Any one out there with
tint wishing they had the clear instead? Would any of you guys flying with
a clear canopy order the tint option if you where building again?
Brett
Message 3
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| Subject: | Source for canopy? |
<http://www.toddscanopies.com/> www.toddscanopies.com/
1445 NE 33rd St., Ft Lauderdale, FL 33334
Phone: 954-579-0874
Email: BSILVER05@aol.com
-- Craig
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Ejecting the canopy on the 601 |
The smoke all got pushed out the bottom of the cowl. My cowl seals up
pretty well too. I didn't realize I had such a leak until I taxied
back to the hangar. I don't recall if I had my vents open during that
flight, it might have been a cold day.
> <purplemoon99@bellsouth.net>
>
> wasn' my plane, it was one built in the chez rep. Didn't your out
> side air vents suck any of that outside oil smoke in? Joe
> N101HD
>
>
>> <bryanmmartin@comcast.net>
>>
>> I once had the dipstick come loose on my engine and oil got all
>> over the top of the engine and the firewall. I was leaving a
>> pretty good smoke trail but barely detected a hint of oil smell
>> in the cabin.
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
do not archive.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy front seal |
>
> I haven't got to the canopy install phase yet but I suspect the
> amount of seal you'll get will be directly proportional to the
> amount of effort you want to put into fitting it.
>
> Tim Juhl
>
You got that right.
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
do not archive.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: disadvantage to a tinted canopy? |
I can't think of any, I've flown mine at night several times and
visibility doesn't seem to suffer with the tinted canopy.
On Apr 9, 2007, at 4:08 AM, Brett Hanley wrote:
> Are there any serious disadvantages to using a tinted canopy? I
> would like to get some thoughts from someone that is flying with
> one. Any one out there with tint wishing they had the clear
> instead? Would any of you guys flying with a clear canopy order
> the tint option if you where building again?
>
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
do not archive.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Kinda off subject |
I assume that you are talking about a scale-like, external shaping only P-40? if
so I may be able to help.
paulrod36@msn.com wrote: Acutally, it's only related in that we're talking
aircraft. Does anybody know where a mildly insane guy could find the blueprints,
or construction drawings of the old Curtiss P-40? The Loehle kit is
very nice and all, but it's wood/fabric, and cruise is 85. Heintz technology
and construction methods would make for a wonderful scaled P-40 LSA. 10 or
15 years down the road, when I get this one done, a single-seater would be cool.
Paul Rodriguez
601XL/Corvair
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Dave Downey
Harleysville (SE) PA
Zodiac 601XL/Corvair?
---------------------------------
TV dinner still cooling?
Check out "Tonight's Picks" on Yahoo! TV.
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Source for canopy? |
I'm wondering the same thing, as I damaged mine by misshandling. To
date, based on previous posts, I assume Todd's may be the best source.
And, as a warning to others who may be prone to be as careless as I can
be - I found the canopy to be more fragile than I expected. I unrolled
the canopy fearing that it might tend to take a set if rolled too long a
time, and temporarly draped it over the top of a chest freezer. Later I
opened the freezer lid several times without removing the canopy, and
now I find a crack where a freezer lid corner contacted the canopy. I've
learned two things: First, the canopy is more soft and flexible than one
might expect and thereby not very prone to take an undesireable set if
left rolled until ready to use. And secondly, the soft flexibility is
decieving in that it actually is more brittle than one might suspect. I
guess I should be glad to have learned this before investing a lot of
labor into fitting the canopy.
Robin in AR
601XL Zen-Vair
----- Original Message -----
From: Brett Hanley
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, April 09, 2007 2:54 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Source for canopy?
Does anyone have an alternate source for a 601 canopy?
Brett
Message 9
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| Subject: | disadvantage to tinted canopy? |
I forget all the detailed pros and cons, but it seems to me that the
consensus of previous posts on this topic favored the tinted.
Do not archive.
----- Original Message -----
From: Brett Hanley
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, April 09, 2007 3:08 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: disadvantage to a tinted canopy?
Are there any serious disadvantages to using a tinted canopy? I would
like to get some thoughts from someone that is flying with one. Any one
out there with tint wishing they had the clear instead? Would any of
you guys flying with a clear canopy order the tint option if you where
building again?
Brett
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: gasoline and paint |
Larry,
That's very disappointing, I'm using the same paint. I don't think that
this would happen with all 2 part urethanes though. I've used Awlgrip quite
a bit and the only way I've ever been able to damage a fully cured coat is
mechanically (abrasives).
I went with the Steward system because it seems safer, for me and the
environment, but I would hate to thing that gasoline, would damage it. With
sticking tanks for fuel level, draining tanks, tank venting and fueling,
there are a lot of opportunities for gasoline to destroy a paint job.
The Steward System performance data says:
OIL RESISTANCE - Half immerse test panel in Transformer oil conforming to
CSA
Standards C50 at 100oC(212oF)(+/- 1o) for 120 hours. Remove and wipe with a
clean
lint free cloth. Allow panel to cool for 2 hours. No softening, surface
disintegration,
wrinkling, blistering, or loss of adhesion.
I would have thought that gasoline would be no more effective at destroying
the paint.
Gordon
----- Original Message -----
From: "LarryMcFarland" <larry@macsmachine.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 08, 2007 5:34 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: gasoline and paint
>
> Hi guys,
> I just found something that may interest you that
> have painted planes. I have an overflow from the header
> tank at the extreme right side of the center section. I managed
> to see a little paint that was crinkled near the fitting and realized
> the fitting had not been tightened. The minor seepage was stopped
> by tightening, but touch up will be required.
> An RV in the next hangar also has paint coming off and we've
> concluded that even just a little automotive fuel will dissolve nearly
> any catalyzed paint there is, so it's prudent to cover your filler
> with an apron before filling. I do this and fortunately the topsides
> are fine. The 6-inch area around my over flow is another matter.
> Guess I'll have to get out the little roller and have at it.
>
> Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
>
>
>
Message 11
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Listers,
Re: 601 canopys.
I have the tinted Lexan ( not plexiglass ) canopy that came with my kit in
early 1995. I unrolled it and built a simple shelf suspended from the
cieling in my basement to store it up out-of-the- way until I needed it. I
thought it might take a "permanent" set while rolled up. In hindsite, I
don't believe it would have been a problem.
I fitted the canopy about a year into the project. Please note that I have
the old side to side opening type. I used a Dremel Tool with the thin small
cut-off wheels to do the trimming. I went slowly and made many cuts removing
small amounts at a time, alternating front and rear until it fit nearly
perfectly with 1/8" gap at the bottom edges ( fore and aft ) allowing for
the rubber seal that I attached. Believe it or not I made a total of 32
small cuts but the canopy fit was very nice when I got done.
I used the small rubber bushing in each of the attach holes, and was very
careful to not over tighten the sheet metal attach screws. I tightened them
only enough to prevent the washers under the screw head from rotating. I do
check them ( the washers - to see if I can rotate them ) regularly. Early
on I found a couple loose and just tightened the screw very little until the
washer wouldn't rotate.
Now after 10 1/2 years and 541 hours I have no cracks, distortion, crazing
or other major problems. I have one minor scratch; my fault!
Caution, don't let gasoline get on the Lexan. It will cause crazing. Since I
have the sinle fuel tank just forward of the canopy, I don cover the Lexan
when refueling so that I don't splash fuel directly on the Lexan.
Bottom line, I don't fly at night so the tint is a good thing for me ( I
live in the hot Georgia sun). I don't fly in the rain so I have no water
leaks. I have alway kept the airplane either under roof or in a hangar and I
keep a canopy cover on it. So I don't have the problems some of you do.
One final thing, I believe working with the Lexan is easier and more
forgiving than Plexiglass. I have worked with both over the years.
do not archive
Jim Hoak 601HD - 912UL - 541 hours.
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Source for canopy?- ouch |
what type of "roll over protection" can something this fragile provide ???
do not archive
Robin Bellach <601zv@ritternet.com> wrote:
DIV { MARGIN: 0px } I'm wondering the same thing, as I damaged mine
by misshandling. To date, based on previous posts, I assume Todd's may be the
best source. And, as a warning to others who may be prone to be as careless
as I can be - I found the canopy to be more fragile than I expected. I unrolled
the canopy fearing that it might tend to take a set if rolled too long a time,
and temporarly draped it over the top of a chest freezer. Later I opened the
freezer lid several times without removing the canopy, and now I find a crack
where a freezer lid corner contacted the canopy. I've learned two things: First,
the canopy is more soft and flexible than one might expect and thereby not
very prone to take an undesireable set if left rolled until ready to use. And
secondly, the soft flexibility is decieving in that it actually is more brittle
than one might suspect. I guess I should be glad to have learned this before
investing a lot of labor into fitting the
canopy.
Robin in AR
601XL Zen-Vair
----- Original Message -----
From: Brett Hanley
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, April 09, 2007 2:54 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Source for canopy?
Does anyone have an alternate source for a 601 canopy?
Brett
---------------------------------
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Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: disadvantage to a tinted canopy? |
Hi Brett,
If the canopy wasn't UV protective, the disadvantage would be wearing
sun glasses under the tint. My Corvette has tinted
side and top glass and the tint is annoying because I always wear
sunglasses and it's hard to read some parts of my panel
on a slightly gray day. I really like the slightly champagne colored
UV protective tint of the Zenith canopy.
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
Brett Hanley wrote:
> Are there any serious disadvantages to using a tinted canopy? I would
> like to get some thoughts from someone that is flying with one. Any
> one out there with tint wishing they had the clear instead? Would
> any of you guys flying with a clear canopy order the tint option if
> you where building again?
>
> Brett
> *
> =========================================
>
> *
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: gasoline and paint |
Gordon,
I use a towel and plastic to protect my canopy and surround the painted
area near the filler
and have had no problems there. The drain fitting had not been
tightened and allowed over flow
from rough air or expansion after filling to drip and spread around the
fitting under the skin.
If the fitting had been tight, I doubt the paint would have been wet so
long as to damage it.
It is probably something more to do with the alcohol found in gasoline
as I burn auto fuel most
of the time in the Subaru. My friends RV7 lost paint at the filler when
auto fuel spilled on it.
His is a fully catalyzed urethane like any other, not the Stewart
systems paint.
In retrospect, I'd not over fill a tank or have less than an inch of
overflow tube hanging below the wing
and I'm making a special apron with a hole and part of a funnel in it
for refueling to catch the drops
and splash from filling. Aside from that, it shouldn't be a problem.
Larry McFarland
Gordon wrote:
>
> Larry,
> That's very disappointing, I'm using the same paint. I don't think
> that this would happen with all 2 part urethanes though. I've used
> Awlgrip quite a bit and the only way I've ever been able to damage a
> fully cured coat is mechanically (abrasives).
> I went with the Steward system because it seems safer, for me and
> the environment, but I would hate to thing that gasoline, would damage
> it. With sticking tanks for fuel level, draining tanks, tank venting
> and fueling, there are a lot of opportunities for gasoline to destroy
> a paint job.
> The Steward System performance data says:
> OIL RESISTANCE - Half immerse test panel in Transformer oil conforming
> to CSA
>
> Standards C50 at 100oC(212oF)(+/- 1o) for 120 hours. Remove and wipe
> with a clean
>
> lint free cloth. Allow panel to cool for 2 hours. No softening,
> surface disintegration,
>
> wrinkling, blistering, or loss of adhesion.
>
> I would have thought that gasoline would be no more effective at
> destroying the paint.
> Gordon
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy front seal |
I purchased a 601hs last september.I have actually flown
the plane in rain. My problem is not from rail coming in
from the front but from the rear. In flight, a low preasure
area forms over the back side of the canopy. this caused
the canopy to lift slightly, just enough to direct some
raindrops to the back of my neck..very nice in the summertime to keep
cool , but in the winter,brrrr.My solution, Keep out of the rain is
possible. any other
solutions would be appreciated.
paul baker
Message 16
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hi list
after reading about water leaks on the front canopy
seal, i looked in the archieves and found nothing
about triming.
i have installed the canopy so that it is on and not
fully completed. (got sick of it and decided to wait
until i have finished the insides).. that said, how
are you people triming the canopy, mine fits pretty
tight on the front, but the back is high in the
middle. i assume that you start cutting off the
plexiglass a little at a time. what tool is best for
this. i have used the cutting wheel, but it seems a
little rough for fine triming. is it better to use a
dremmel. if so, what kind of cutting wheel. any
suggestions would be helpful, especially the one that
say what not to use.
thanks in advance
john butterfield
601XL, corvair
torrance, ca
Don't get soaked. Take a quick peek at the forecast
with the Yahoo! Search weather shortcut.
http://tools.search.yahoo.com/shortcuts/#loc_weather
Message 17
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Brian,
How did you seal your firewall around the nose gear steering pushrods.
Anyone comment
Joe in Oshkosh
Message 18
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| Subject: | 601XL catalog on ZAC's website |
If you haven't seen this, its pretty cool. An illustrated parts catalog and a price
list for individual parts.
http://www.zenithair.com/kit/601/index.html
Dave Clay
Temple, TX
http://www.daves601xl.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=105891#105891
Message 19
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| Subject: | orangepeel in clear coat |
I've been monitoring this site for a long time and
never posted, but I've encountered a problem in
finishing my 601 so I need some help. The primer and
base coats went on fine, but the clear coat has
orange-peel. The question is how do I get ride of the
orange-peel without taking the base coat off the
rivets? (lots of rivets) Any help would be
appreciated.
Thanks in advance, Richard from Wisconsin
Bored stiff? Loosen up...
Download and play hundreds of games for free on Yahoo! Games.
http://games.yahoo.com/games/front
Message 20
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| Subject: | 601HDS: O/BWing - Aileron photo request (ZAC Plans attack!) |
First some good news. After way too long (we're talking years) I finally finished
an outboard wing! It's good to make some progress.
Now the bad news, and a request (along with an excuse). I built my ailerons several
years ago following the hand-drawn plans available at the time. Even with
kit parts, it seems I managed to screw them up. I misread the plans and matched
the inboard end rib of the aileron (where the aileron crank attaches) to
the inboard wing rib rather than just following the "line" of the wing rib.
So, when I recently fit it to the completed wing, I cut it the aileron too short
on the inboard side. Rather than being past the end of the rear zee, I cut
it at the inboard rib. (OUCH!). There goes about $200 worth of parts.
While I lick those wounds, I'm going to trudge forward with the left wing while
I save my pennies.
Does anyone have a good photo of the clearance required between the aileron and
the rear zee, on the inboard side of an HDS? I want to make sure when I get
to the left one I don't make the same mistake.
Also, I already know the left aileron ribs are in the "wrong" location but I can
still cut the aileron to the right length. Basically, the aileron rivet lines
will not line up with the wing ribs (they'll shift 4 or 5 inches inboard),
and the larger gap will be on the outboard edge, rather than inboard. I've got
that question into ZAC, but any thoughts here rather than cosmetically if there
would be any concerns with that?
Thanks,
Mitch Hodges
--------
N601MH (Zenith 601HDS)
Wings Under Construction
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=105902#105902
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re:Firewall seal |
Joe
Go to _http://www.701builder.com_ (http://www.701builder.com) and look at
the fuselage firewall area, I used
the rubber boot method.See photoshare under Ben Haas for part numbers.
How did you seal your firewall around the nose gear steering pushrods.
Anyone comment
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: 601XL catalog on ZAC's website |
They did it for the 701 too.
John
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Source for canopy?- ouch |
> what type of "roll over protection" can something this fragile provide
???
www.ch601.org/stories_files/image002.jpg
-- Craig
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: 601XL catalog on ZAC's website |
Sorry, John. Didn't mean to leave you guys out.
do not archive
Dave Clay
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=105929#105929
Message 25
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| Subject: | Source for canopy?- ouch |
See what happens when you try to land with concrete blocks attached to your
wings.
Gary Boothe
Cool, CA
601 HDSTD, WW Conversion 90% done,
Tail done, wings done, working on c-section
Do not archive
_____
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Craig Payne
Sent: Monday, April 09, 2007 10:52 AM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Source for canopy?- ouch
> what type of "roll over protection" can something this fragile provide
???
www.ch601.org/stories_files/image002.jpg
-- Craig
Message 26
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| Subject: | 601XL catalog on ZAC's website |
DAVE,
THANKS FOR THE HEADS-UP!
DO NOT ARCHIVE
----- Original Message -----
From: "TxDave" <dclaytx2@hotmail.com>
Sent: Monday, April 09, 2007 11:04 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: 601XL catalog on ZAC's website
>
> If you haven't seen this, its pretty cool. An illustrated parts catalog
> and a price list for individual parts.
>
> http://www.zenithair.com/kit/601/index.html
>
>
> Dave Clay
> Temple, TX
> http://www.daves601xl.com
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=105891#105891
>
>
>
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: canopy triming |
I used a Makita electric die grinder with a cylindrical grinding bit
on a warm day and took a little off at a time.
> <jdbutterfield@yahoo.com>
>
> hi list
> after reading about water leaks on the front canopy
> seal, i looked in the archieves and found nothing
> about triming.
>
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
do not archive.
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Firewall seal |
Check the photo share files:
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/zenith-list.html#Top
and look under Dec 11 2005 posted by Craig Payne "steering rod
baffles". There are two methods shown there with photos.
>
> Brian,
>
> How did you seal your firewall around the nose gear steering
> pushrods. Anyone comment
>
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: orangepeel in clear coat |
Richard.
I'm right there with you. I too am using the same paint process. I have decided
that a little orange peel isn't worth the effort to remove it .
You could try to wet sand in-between the rivets, but you will sooner or later sand
through to the color and primer. You could also use a 3M pad (color of you
choice) and just scuff it up and put on another coat of clear.
I was concerned about some orange peel that I had, then I set the parts out in
the sun and couldn't see the orange peel from more than a foot away.
If you are building a show plane and are really concerned, you might just strip
it down and start over.
Just my opinion and worth every penny you paid for it.
Mark S.
701/912ULS
----- Original Message ----
From: richard priebus <rpriebus@yahoo.com>
Sent: Monday, April 9, 2007 9:06:17 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: orangepeel in clear coat
I've been monitoring this site for a long time and
never posted, but I've encountered a problem in
finishing my 601 so I need some help. The primer and
base coats went on fine, but the clear coat has
orange-peel. The question is how do I get ride of the
orange-peel without taking the base coat off the
rivets? (lots of rivets) Any help would be
appreciated.
Thanks in advance, Richard from Wisconsin
Bored stiff? Loosen up...
Download and play hundreds of games for free on Yahoo! Games.
http://games.yahoo.com/games/front
Get your own web address.
http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/domains/?p=BESTDEAL
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Rudder Horn Installation on 701 |
While building my rudder I found that I could not install the horn after
riveting the bottom rib to the spar. I had to rivet the horn to the rib
first, or else the large rivets in the corner hit against the smaller rivets
in the spar. Anyone else notice this?
Tom
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re:Firewall seal |
Sorry, better pics in the engine section.
Brian
Joe
Go to _http://www.701builder.com_ (http://www.701builder.com/) and look at
the fuselage firewall area, I used
the rubber boot method.See photoshare under Ben Haas for part numbers.
How did you seal your firewall around the nose gear steering pushrods.
Anyone comment
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
Message 32
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| Subject: | CH701 Firewall Forward Kit |
Jabiru USA Sport Aircraft announces the release of a complete firewall
forward installation kit for the CH701. Kit includes cowls, mount, all
systems, prop and spinner.
See photos attached or visit www.usjabiru.com for details.
Pete Krotje
Jabiru USA Sport Aircraft, LLC
Message 33
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| Subject: | E-LSA - CH701 kit built airplane |
The further I get into the registration process the more I become afraid
that I have taken a giant mis-step. I have submitted my initial
registration paperwork as an Experimental-Light Sport Aircraft instead
of Experimental-Amateur Built.
Is there anyone out there who has registered their kit-built CH701 as
E-LSA?
If so - if you could communicate with me off-line I would be very
appreciative. Everything I have been reading so far, especially from
the FAA, tends toward E-AB. Including the continued reference to AC
20-27F "Certification and Operation of Amateur-Built Aircraft".
Worried sick in Kansas City.
Thanks,
Sam Hutcheson
N6412Z (in E-LSA registration process)
Message 34
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| Subject: | sandwich construction |
Joe,
I used a sandwich construction against the inside of the firewall. The
arc of the steering rod
requires the center piece float a little and the rod sets in a rubber
grommet. This works very
well. I was flying yesterday and at 27 degrees F / 4000 feet, the cabin
was 45-degrees.
No drafts.
Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
see links below
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/controllinkages/full/steer-rod-air-barrier.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/controllinkages/full/steer-rod-air-barrier-2.gif
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: 601XL catalog on ZAC's website |
Now we know why they killed off the old parts database.
TxDave wrote:
> If you haven't seen this, its pretty cool. An illustrated parts catalog and a
price list for individual parts.
>
> http://www.zenithair.com/kit/601/index.html
>
>
> Dave Clay
> Temple, TX
> http://www.daves601xl.com
--------
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=105961#105961
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: 601XL catalog on ZAC's website |
Doesn't look like they intend to offer as much for the HD/HDS. Zilch
for the wings at the moment.
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuse/Corvair
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: JohnDRead@aol.com
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, April 09, 2007 1:37 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: 601XL catalog on ZAC's website
They did it for the 701 too.
John
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
See what's free at AOL.com.
Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: canopy triming |
John,
LPAero makes the canopies - at least they made mine. Installation instructions and tips are on the LPAero web site at http://www.lpaero.com/DRILTRIM.html
Jeff Davidson
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: 601HDS: O/BWing - Aileron photo request (ZAC Plans attack!) |
Mitch-
1. The natural tendency that early in the game is to build the small
parts first. You just found out what I did the first time around- you build
the ailerons to fit the wings, not vice versa.
2. Clearance between the aileron and rear zee? The hinge tab is 40mm
from the forward edge of the aileron skin/aileron rib. The difference is
20mm from the rivet line of the wing Z spar and the rivet line of the
forward part of the aileron.
3. The only way you'll spend $200 on a new set of ailerons is if you
haven't already built a Home Depot (Or similar) brake. More like less than
$75.00.
4. The one place I screwed up second time around was forgetting to
compensate for the aileron twist when laying out my rivet lines.
Consequently, my top rivet line is right on the money, but the bottom fades
outboard by 2-3mm.
Pictures attached. Hope they help. Talk about old- they're from 1
workshop and 2 cordless drills ago! Hang in there...
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuse/Corvair
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mitch Hodges" <n601mh@HODGES.INFO>
Sent: Monday, April 09, 2007 12:43 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: 601HDS: O/BWing - Aileron photo request (ZAC Plans
attack!)
>
> First some good news. After way too long (we're talking years) I finally
> finished an outboard wing! It's good to make some progress.
>
> Now the bad news, and a request (along with an excuse). I built my
> ailerons several years ago following the hand-drawn plans available at the
> time. Even with kit parts, it seems I managed to screw them up. I misread
> the plans and matched the inboard end rib of the aileron (where the
> aileron crank attaches) to the inboard wing rib rather than just following
> the "line" of the wing rib. So, when I recently fit it to the completed
> wing, I cut it the aileron too short on the inboard side. Rather than
> being past the end of the rear zee, I cut it at the inboard rib. (OUCH!).
> There goes about $200 worth of parts.
>
> While I lick those wounds, I'm going to trudge forward with the left wing
> while I save my pennies.
>
> Does anyone have a good photo of the clearance required between the
> aileron and the rear zee, on the inboard side of an HDS? I want to make
> sure when I get to the left one I don't make the same mistake.
>
> Also, I already know the left aileron ribs are in the "wrong" location but
> I can still cut the aileron to the right length. Basically, the aileron
> rivet lines will not line up with the wing ribs (they'll shift 4 or 5
> inches inboard), and the larger gap will be on the outboard edge, rather
> than inboard. I've got that question into ZAC, but any thoughts here
> rather than cosmetically if there would be any concerns with that?
>
> Thanks,
> Mitch Hodges
>
> --------
> N601MH (Zenith 601HDS)
> Wings Under Construction
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=105902#105902
>
>
>
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: orangepeel in clear coat |
This is without a doubt the biggest problem with pulled rivets. You can
wet sand with 600 but it will take forever to miss all the rivet heads.
I feel your pain.......
do not archive
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
-- richard priebus <rpriebus@yahoo.com> wrote:
I've been monitoring this site for a long time and
never posted, but I've encountered a problem in
finishing my 601 so I need some help. The primer and
base coats went on fine, but the clear coat has
orange-peel. The question is how do I get ride of the
orange-peel without taking the base coat off the
rivets? (lots of rivets) Any help would be
appreciated.
Thanks in advance, Richard from Wisconsin
Bored stiff? Loosen up...
Download and play hundreds of games for free on Yahoo! Games.
http://games.yahoo.com/games/front
========================
===========
========================
===========
========================
===========
<html><P>This is without a doubt the biggest problem with pulled rivets.
You can wet sand with 600 but it will take forever to miss all the rive
t heads. I feel your pain.......</P>
<P>do not archive<BR><BR><BR>Ben Haas<BR>N801BH<BR>www.haaspowerair
.com<BR><BR>-- richard priebus <rpriebus@yahoo.com>
wrote:<BR>--> Zenith-List message posted by
: richard priebus <rpriebus@yahoo.com><BR><BR>I've&
nbsp;been monitoring this site for a long&
nbsp;time and<BR>never posted, but I've encount
ered a problem in<BR>finishing my 601 so&n
bsp;I need some help. The primer and
<BR>base coats went on fine, but the
clear coat has<BR>orange-peel. The question&nb
sp;is how do I get ride of the<BR>ora
nge-peel without taking the base coat off&
nbsp;the<BR>rivets? (lots of rivets) Any help&n
bsp;would be<BR>appreciated.<BR><BR>Thanks in advance,&nb
sp; Richard fr
om Wisconsin<BR><BR><BR><BR> <BR>Bored stiff? Loosen
up... <BR>Download and play hundreds of&n
bsp;games for free on Yahoo! Games.<BR>http://g
========================
========================
nbsp;the Matronics List Features Navigator to&n
bsp;Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat,&
========================
p;Same great content now also available vi
========================
======================</P></
html>
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: Aileron cable clearance and installation |
Bill and others,
The purpose of the cattycorner brace is there to support the fairlead material
that the torque tube and cables run through. I struggled with mounting the brace
for a while. My solution was to use a short section of material with the same
cross section as the cattycorner brace, flipped over, riveted inside the brace
to add strength, which allowed cutting a notch in the brace. See attached
photo.
The photo is taken from on top of my ELT which is mounted behind the right seat.
(A corner of the ELT is visible.) The seat backs are out, but the right side
bottom cushion is in place. The photo was taken while I was installing the pitch
servo for my Trutrak Digiflight II. Also visible is the gray speckled Zolatone
paint I used for the interior finish of my plane.
Regards,
Roy
N601RT: CH601HDS, nose gear, Rotax 912ULS, All electric, IFR equipped, 692hrs,
814 landings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=105983#105983
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/p9260012_113.jpg
Message 41
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| Subject: | Re: 601HDS: O/BWing - Aileron photo request (ZAC Plans attack!) |
Thanks Bill. The pictures definitely help. I'd still like to see a
close-up of the I/B section right where the aileron and the rear zee end if
someone has one though. Some other thoughts:
"Clearance between the aileron and rear zee?"
What I really meant was where does the inboard end of the aileron line up
with the inboard end of the wing. From your pictures, it looks like it is
right at the I/B end of the rear zee at the point where the splice plate
forms the base of the triangle. That is what I thought. I see now also
from the plans you trim the splice plate for clearance in a later step.
"The only way you'll spend $200 on a new set of ailerons"
Or you buy the parts from Zenith directly. That is about what it adds up to
when you order the parts. The ribs are about $15 each and the skin is well
north of $100. I'm going to let that sit a while but I'm willing to bet I
end up scratch building those replacements!
"The one place I screwed up second time around was forgetting to compensate
for the aileron twist when laying out my rivet lines."
Oh, I did that the first time, I guess we reversed ordered our misses!
<grin>
Mitch Hodges
601HDS (working on outer wings)
http:\\www.hodges.info
Powder Springs, GA
Message 42
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| Subject: | Re: E-LSA - CH701 kit built airplane |
As long as you can complete the registration process before the end
of January next year, you should be able to register as E-LSA. You
will be registering under the "fat ultralight" clause.
*************************************************
FAR 21.191
Experimental certificates.
Experimental certificates are issued for the following purposes:
...
(i) Operating light-sport aircraft. Operating a light-sport aircraft
that-
(1) Has not been issued a U.S. or foreign airworthiness certificate
and does not meet the provisions of 103.1 of this chapter. An
experimental certificate will not be issued under this paragraph for
these aircraft after January 31, 2008;
...
*************************************************
The only downside to the E-LSA is that you will not automatically get
a repairman certificate for your airplane just because you built it.
You will have to attend a 16 hour LSA maintenance course to earn the
Repairman Inspection rating which will authorize you to sign off the
annual inspection on your plane.
Search through the list archives on this subject. It's been
thoroughly discussed here before. Go to the EAA LSA website for more
information. http://www.sportpilot.org/
On Apr 9, 2007, at 5:04 PM, Harrison-Hutcheson wrote:
> The further I get into the registration process the more I become
> afraid that I have taken a giant mis-step. I have submitted my
> initial registration paperwork as an Experimental-Light Sport
> Aircraft instead of Experimental-Amateur Built.
>
> If so - if you could communicate with me off-line I would be very
> appreciative. Everything I have been reading so far, especially
> from the FAA, tends toward E-AB. Including the continued reference
> to AC 20-27F "Certification and Operation of Amateur-Built Aircraft".
>
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
Message 43
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|
| Subject: | Re: orangepeel in clear coat |
Basically you don't, unless you sand it down. You can try and put more
clear coat on. If you get a real "wet" coat, use a "slow dry" thinner, it
will do a lot better. But, it's easy to get runs. If it were me and it
really bothered me, I would sand it down, hit it with another light coat of
base, then follow up with a couple of wet coats of clear.
Larry, N1345L, www.skyhawg.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Sherman" <msherman95632@yahoo.com>
Sent: Monday, April 09, 2007 1:47 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: orangepeel in clear coat
>
> Richard.
>
> I'm right there with you. I too am using the same paint process. I have
> decided that a little orange peel isn't worth the effort to remove it .
>
> You could try to wet sand in-between the rivets, but you will sooner or
> later sand through to the color and primer. You could also use a 3M pad
> (color of you choice) and just scuff it up and put on another coat of
> clear.
>
> I was concerned about some orange peel that I had, then I set the parts
> out in the sun and couldn't see the orange peel from more than a foot
> away.
>
> If you are building a show plane and are really concerned, you might just
> strip it down and start over.
>
> Just my opinion and worth every penny you paid for it.
>
> Mark S.
> 701/912ULS
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: richard priebus <rpriebus@yahoo.com>
> To: zenith-list-digest@matronics.com
> Sent: Monday, April 9, 2007 9:06:17 AM
> Subject: Zenith-List: orangepeel in clear coat
>
>
>
> I've been monitoring this site for a long time and
> never posted, but I've encountered a problem in
> finishing my 601 so I need some help. The primer and
> base coats went on fine, but the clear coat has
> orange-peel. The question is how do I get ride of the
> orange-peel without taking the base coat off the
> rivets? (lots of rivets) Any help would be
> appreciated.
>
> Thanks in advance, Richard from Wisconsin
>
>
> Bored stiff? Loosen up...
> Download and play hundreds of games for free on Yahoo! Games.
> http://games.yahoo.com/games/front
>
>
> Get your own web address.
> http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/domains/?p=BESTDEAL
>
>
> --
> 3:33 PM
>
>
Message 44
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| Subject: | Re: 601HDS: O/BWing - Aileron photo request (ZAC Plans attack!) |
Mitch-
1. I'd like to find out where you're ordering HDS parts. Nothing on the
website lately.
2. You'll never see the picture you're talking about on an unfinished
plane. Per the plans and manual, (sic) "Leave extra and cut to fit." You
still have to carve a big chunk out of both the outboard wing and c-section
to achieve the ( I hate to call it this, but can't think of any other term )
dihedral angle and clearance for assembling the spar bolts. Check out Larry
McFarland's website.
Every project's just a little different. That's why in some cases,
Zenith couldn't give a hard figure.
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuse/Corvair
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hodges, Mitch" <mitch@HODGES.INFO>
Sent: Monday, April 09, 2007 7:59 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: 601HDS: O/BWing - Aileron photo request (ZAC Plans
attack!)
>
> Thanks Bill. The pictures definitely help. I'd still like to see a
> close-up of the I/B section right where the aileron and the rear zee end
> if
> someone has one though. Some other thoughts:
>
> "Clearance between the aileron and rear zee?"
>
> What I really meant was where does the inboard end of the aileron line up
> with the inboard end of the wing. From your pictures, it looks like it is
> right at the I/B end of the rear zee at the point where the splice plate
> forms the base of the triangle. That is what I thought. I see now also
> from the plans you trim the splice plate for clearance in a later step.
>
> "The only way you'll spend $200 on a new set of ailerons"
>
> Or you buy the parts from Zenith directly. That is about what it adds up
> to
> when you order the parts. The ribs are about $15 each and the skin is
> well
> north of $100. I'm going to let that sit a while but I'm willing to bet I
> end up scratch building those replacements!
>
> "The one place I screwed up second time around was forgetting to
> compensate
> for the aileron twist when laying out my rivet lines."
>
> Oh, I did that the first time, I guess we reversed ordered our misses!
> <grin>
>
> Mitch Hodges
> 601HDS (working on outer wings)
> http:\\www.hodges.info
> Powder Springs, GA
>
>
>
Message 45
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| Subject: | HDS Cattycorner brace |
Roy and all-
Roy- no attachment for you pictures. Send them to me direct- I'd
like to see them.
All- attached is what I wound up with, which is a slight variation
on what Jeff Small did. I'll leave the brace in clecos until I
permanently mount the rudder and will cut a cable outlet slot to fit.
Also notice that I remembered to get the shrink wrap over the cut cable
ends. One of my proudest moments!
Amazing that all of us HD/HDS people have struggled with the same
problem for 10 years without a definitive solution!
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuse/Corvair
Townville, Pa
Message 46
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| Subject: | Re: 601HDS: O/BWing - Aileron photo request (ZAC Plans attack!) |
"I'd like to find out where you're ordering HDS parts. Nothing on the
website lately."
If you call them directly they'll still sell you parts. I've ordered a
wingtip rib in the last couple of months (snipped it when trimming the top
rear skin) and they gave me pricing when I called to verify my mistake on
Friday.
Mitch
Message 47
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| Subject: | Re: 601HDS: O/BWing - Aileron photo request (ZAC Plans attack!) |
Mitch-
I mean a listing of available parts. I hope I don't need any more at
this point, other than maybe my third right outboard fiberglass tip!
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuse/Corvair
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hodges, Mitch" <mitch@HODGES.INFO>
Sent: Monday, April 09, 2007 10:03 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: 601HDS: O/BWing - Aileron photo request (ZAC Plans
attack!)
>
> "I'd like to find out where you're ordering HDS parts. Nothing on the
> website lately."
>
> If you call them directly they'll still sell you parts. I've ordered a
> wingtip rib in the last couple of months (snipped it when trimming the top
> rear skin) and they gave me pricing when I called to verify my mistake on
> Friday.
>
> Mitch
>
>
>
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