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rlborger(at)mac.com
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 Posted: Tue Nov 20, 2007 5:52 am Post subject: Fwd: RE: Rotax Oil Filter Question |
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Hugh & the rest of the Rotax crowd,
Here's the reply from Dean, the instructor at Lockwood Aviation along with the question I posed.
FWIW, I also have done like Thom and ordered my oil filters in batches to minimize the shipping costs and amortize it over a number of filters.
Check six,
Bob Borger
[quote]From: "Dean Vogel"
To: "'rlborger'" <rlborger(at)mac.com>
Date: November 20, 2007 07:34:12 AM CST
Subject: RE: Rotax Oil Filter Question
No I can't, the one thing I know is that the pressure is about 25% higher on
the Rotax filter than on the normal automotive filter. So if you need to be
at 120F oil temperature before you can be sure the Rotax filter is running
filtered oil through the system, what temperature do you have to be at with
the automotive filters?
Thanks for helping to keep people safe.
Dean
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rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.n
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| Posted: Tue Nov 20, 2007 2:06 pm Post subject: Fwd: RE: Rotax Oil Filter Question |
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Curious question.
I plan on using Rotax oil filters, this way if there is ever a change or
recall, I am not the one to find out.
The curious question is what exactly is the problem with sending
unfiltered oil through your engine? There is a screen in the oil tank?
I owned a 1948 Cessna 170 with a C-145 (just bout same as O-300) for 19
years, and it didn't have an oil filter, just a "snake catcher" with holes
like 1/8". Never had a failure, and we majored motor within first few
years, no major wear or damage, and today the new owner is 3/4 the way to
major again with no major troubles.
I have heard also that the screen in the oil tank gets clogged especial
when using 100LL, but that happens with a Rotax filter?? This should be a
reasonable snake catcher?
I also own 2 1957 BMW Isettas, they have no oil filters either.
(Is it debris that will trash oil pump? Debris that will clog oil passages
(where)? Debris that will collapse lifters? Just curious, I would think
that Rotax would have sized the screen mesh in oil tank to prevent?
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
I also own 3 early 90s Volvo turbo wagons. It just so happens Volvo uses
Mann as Mfg for their filters. Early on I sawed opened Volvo and other
filters, Mann was far superior to others but felt the same and looked the
same. The bypass on some were poor at best. I only use Mann filters
purchased by the dozen.
I read very careful, and looked in detail at my 1983 Volvo turbo wagon
that used Garette air cooled turbo that is very close to 914 Rotax. I know
I am going to get flamed on this one, but my findings were it is in your
best interest to fill to top the oil filter before you install it! Many
who have never tried it think the entire contents will come pouring out.
"NOT". Slight bit of finesse and you will not spill a drop. Uncoordinated
and only a few drops. That will be on top of the many drops that happened
when unscrewing filter, unless you made hole and drained first. It is
surprising just how long it takes to fill filter completely full, it keeps
on absorbing. For a neat freak in an imposable cowled aeroplane, where
every drop is a problem, fill filter and freeze it, install quick with no
drops.
Ron Parigoris
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rampil
Joined: 04 May 2007
Posts: 870
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| Posted: Wed Nov 21, 2007 9:46 am Post subject: Re: Fwd: RE: Rotax Oil Filter Question |
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Ron,
Recall for a moment that Issettas are not a good model of the Rotax
9xx.
Recall that that the Rotax has tiny oil galleries all over for cooling
The Rotax has hydraulic lifters with tiny oil channels
The Rotax cylinder heads are tempered aluminum alloy which will
soften dramatically if overheated. Clogged channels hurt engine,
just like at all the precautions against air bubbles in the galleries!
There are other reasons as well.
I am sure you will not unfilter your nice unflown 914 when the time comes,
so it doesn't seem reasonable to frame your question in such a way as
to suggest it to others,
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