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backstagelive(at)gmail.co
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 Posted: Tue Apr 26, 2011 12:26 pm Post subject: Nose Gear |
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Hi Guys and Gals!
I have a bunch of questions. I'm getting ready to hang my engine and I cross
referenced my plans with the new 601/650 plans and it seems that the nose
gear and firewall parts have changed a lot since my kit was made. I also
needed an new lower bearing block for the nose gear because the threads in
the block were a little sloppy. I ordered all the new gussets and other
parts from Sherley today at the factory. I also ordered the new bearing
block, but just about choked when I found out it costs about $135!!! Back
about a year ago, someone designed a lower bearing block that didn't have
the V on both sides. It was just a flat piece of stock on both sides. I
always wondered, what do the rudder pedals feel like in flight when the
rudders are neutral? Can you feel the nose gear going up and down in the
bearing block when using the ruddrer? Do the pedals return to center
automaticly when you remove your feet because of the V shape in the block?
Is that V shape nessessary? Is anyone doing the job better?
Also, please let me know if you have any firewall forward pictures on your
web sites I can look at. Please direct me to your site if you are using the
Jab 3300.
Is anyone else upgrading their nose gear parts to the new system? Is it
needed? Were the changes made because of a landing incident or structural
problem. The change doesn't seem to be manditory, but the strength increase
looks substantial! I also like the new wind covers for the steering rods!
Thanks everyone!!!
Joe in Oshkosh
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jaybannist(at)cs.com
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| Posted: Tue Apr 26, 2011 1:17 pm Post subject: Nose Gear |
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Joe,
I believe the "V" grooves do center the gear, but the centering is slight enough that it doesn't hinder use of the rudder. I would retain them.
The fastening of the bearing block is another thing. I didn't feel secure about threading that plastic for the bolts. I drilled the bolt holes all the way through and used a Forsner bit to make a recess for the bolt heads so they wouldn't interfere with the steering rods. See photo. I used all-metal self-locking nuts on the bottom.
Jay
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bryanmmartin
Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 1018
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| Posted: Tue Apr 26, 2011 1:24 pm Post subject: Nose Gear |
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First of all, you should be aware that the rudder cable tension must be set with the nose wheel off the ground so that the strut is bottomed out as it would be in flight. This is because the strut moves up and back with weight on the nose gear, making the cables loose on the ground. If you set the tension with weight on the gear, the cables will tighten significantly in flight.
With the proper tension set, I don't feel the gear moving up and down in the V and the rudder will self center. It does take a little bit of force to move the rudder pedals but it doesn't take excessive force to push the rudder to its stops if needed. I have found that I don't need much rudder in normal flight, the plane has very little adverse yaw. I use the rudders mostly during final approach to landing. I can put the rudder full left and ailerons full right in a forward slip and lose altitude in a hurry if needed.
If the only problem with the old bearing is sloppy threads, you might try using some kind of glue as a filler to take up the slop when you install the bolts. Something like Shoe Goo might work.
On Apr 26, 2011, at 4:22 PM, Joe wrote:
| Quote: |
Hi Guys and Gals!
I have a bunch of questions. I'm getting ready to hang my engine and I cross referenced my plans with the new 601/650 plans and it seems that the nose gear and firewall parts have changed a lot since my kit was made. I also needed an new lower bearing block for the nose gear because the threads in the block were a little sloppy. I ordered all the new gussets and other parts from Sherley today at the factory. I also ordered the new bearing block, but just about choked when I found out it costs about $135!!! Back about a year ago, someone designed a lower bearing block that didn't have the V on both sides. It was just a flat piece of stock on both sides. I always wondered, what do the rudder pedals feel like in flight when the rudders are neutral? Can you feel the nose gear going up and down in the bearing block when using the ruddrer? Do the pedals return to center automaticly when you remove your feet because of the V shape in the block? Is that V shape nessessary? Is anyone doing the job better?
Also, please let me know if you have any firewall forward pictures on your web sites I can look at. Please direct me to your site if you are using the Jab 3300.
Is anyone else upgrading their nose gear parts to the new system? Is it needed? Were the changes made because of a landing incident or structural problem. The change doesn't seem to be manditory, but the strength increase looks substantial! I also like the new wind covers for the steering rods! Thanks everyone!!!
Joe in Oshkosh
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--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus re-drive.
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_________________
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Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru.
do not archive. |
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jaybannist(at)cs.com
Guest
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| Posted: Tue Apr 26, 2011 1:36 pm Post subject: Nose Gear |
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I read the advice about setting the rudder cable tension with the nose gear off the ground. However, even with the weight of a Corvair engine, I never saw the steering arms off the bearing block. It was always "bottomed out". That advice may may be good with an old, tired bungee, but raising the nose gear off the ground shouldn't be necessary with a new one.
Jay
--
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klondike(at)megalink.net
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| Posted: Tue Apr 26, 2011 2:05 pm Post subject: Nose Gear |
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"V" notch is worthless !!!!!!!
Fritz
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bryanmmartin
Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 1018
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| Posted: Tue Apr 26, 2011 3:35 pm Post subject: Nose Gear |
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Before I reversed the main gear spring and put a new bungee on my nose gear strut, my nose strut would sag about half an inch on the ground. It probably sagged a bit more with my weight in the cabin while checking the tension. After blocking up the nose and setting the tension with the strut bottomed out, the cables would be nearly slack with weight on the nose gear. It made a big difference in the feel of the rudder in flight. It doesn't take much deflection to have a significant effect on the tension.
The point is to make sure the strut is in its "in flight" position when you set the tension.
On Apr 26, 2011, at 5:33 PM, Jay Bannister wrote:
| Quote: | I read the advice about setting the rudder cable tension with the nose gear off the ground. However, even with the weight of a Corvair engine, I never saw the steering arms off the bearing block. It was always "bottomed out". That advice may may be good with an old, tired bungee, but raising the nose gear off the ground shouldn't be necessary with a new one.
Jay
|
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus re-drive.
| | - The Matronics Zenith601-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith601-List |
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_________________
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Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru.
do not archive. |
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jaybannist(at)cs.com
Guest
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| Posted: Tue Apr 26, 2011 3:52 pm Post subject: Nose Gear |
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Bryan, You are absolutely correct about the effect of deflection on cable tension. I tried to explain it to another builder without success; so I made a drawing to show why it works that way. Drawing attached.
Jay
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Afterfxllc(at)aol.com
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| Posted: Tue Apr 26, 2011 11:11 pm Post subject: Nose Gear |
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Joe,
If you want to save 135.00 just do what I do on all my 601 V block's I use a flat drill bit a couple sizes smaller than the bolt heats and drill the top of the v block deep enough for the head to clear the gear centering tube then just put a nylock on the bottom side of the v block and to me it is much stronger. The bolt doesn't turn as you tighten the nut because it was drilled undersized and the nylon holds it tight.
I will try and find a pic..... Keep in mind you really have to clamp down your work as it will try and grab the nylon as you drill it. use one piece to make the other piece level for drilling then reverse to drill the other.
Jeff
In a message dated 4/26/2011 4:27:13 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, backstagelive(at)gmail.com writes:
| Quote: | --> Zenith601-List message posted by: "Joe" <backstagelive(at)gmail.com>
Hi Guys and Gals!
I have a bunch of questions. I'm getting ready to hang my engine and I cross
referenced my plans with the new 601/650 plans and it seems that the nose
gear and firewall parts have changed a lot since my kit was made. I also
needed an new lower bearing block for the nose gear because the threads in
the block were a little sloppy. I ordered all the new gussets and other
parts from Sherley today at the factory. I also ordered the new bearing
block, but just about choked when I found out it costs about $135!!! Back
about a year ago, someone designed a lower bearing block that didn't have
the V on both sides. It was just a flat piece of stock on both sides. I
always wondered, what do the rudder pedals feel like in flight when the
rudders are neutral? Can you feel the nose gear going up and down in the
bearing block when using the ruddrer? Do the pedals return to center
automaticly when you remove your feet because of the V shape in the block?
Is that V shape nessessary? Is anyone doing the job better?
Also, please let me know if you have any firewall forward pictures on your
web sites I can look at. Please direct me to your site if you are using the
Jab 3300.
Is anyone else upgrading their nose gear parts to the new system? Is it
needed? Were the changes made because of a landing incident or structural
problem. The change doesn't seem to be manditory, but the strength increase
looks substantial! I also like the new wind covers for the steering rods!
Thanks everyone!!!
Joe in Oshkosh se the ies ay - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - List Contribution Web Site p;
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