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psm(at)att.net Guest
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Posted: Tue Sep 20, 2011 11:53 am Post subject: Flight Test Update - N776PM |
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It's been a little over two months since my Zodiac XL got its
airworthiness certificate. Yesterday I had my first flight with no
squawks. I figured it is time to spread the word on the things I
found. Current flight time is around 17 hours. My typical test flight
was just over one half hour with just one landing. This might have been
a bit shorter if I didn't have to get out from under a class C terminal
area before climbing to a reasonable test altitude.
Yesterday the air was reasonably cool - around 60 on the ground so it
must have been around 45 at 5000 MSL where I did my testing. At full
throttle the engine ran smoothly and the plane indicated around 120
knots. I have not calibrated the airspeed yet, but casual comparison
with GPS ground speed suggests it is pretty close to correct. I have a
Jabiru 3300A with wood Sensenich 64ZK49 propeller (standard stuff when
you buy the FWF package from Pete at USA Jabiru). Cylinder head
temperatures were all green with the highest around 320. Oil
temperature was around 170. At WOT engine RPM was just over 3000 RPM at
5000 MSL. CHTs in full throttle climb were around 1100 and in high
cruise around 1300.
I am sure I can't remember all the problems I fixed in the first two
months of phase I flight test, but I'll try to recount as many as I can.
1. Engine cooling was a big problem. My first attempt at adding rubber
seals at the front of the cooing ducts was not correct. I should have
fitted the rubber seals carefully to the inlets in the cowl. I also
needed to adjust the air dams in the right duct (cylinders 1,3,5) but
the other one never needed any adjustment.
2. Nose gear bearings were too tight. The plastic bearings at both the
top and bottom of the nose gear column restricted movement instead of
just guiding it. The nose should move up and down easily when you put
your weight on the propeller drive shaft. The plastic bearings as
delivered from ZAC were much too tight. I loosened them on original
installation but that wasn't enough.
3. Rudder does not return to center when you remove pressure from the
pedals. This problem is unresolved. It doesn't present too much of a
problem but it is difficult to keep the ball centered unless you give
the left rudder pedal a good kick after maneuvering. A related
unresolved problem is the nose tends to wander in yaw - especially in
turbulence. I am thinking nice thoughts of adding some sort of fixed
vertical stabilizer fin - probably on the bottom of the fuselage to
correct this. It is not a big problem but makes flying a bit uncomfortable.
4. I had a few electronic problems with my Dynon and Garmin avionics.
The Dynon tachometer needed to have a resistor installed in line with
the connection to the alternator (through a fuse). Before adding the
resistor the tachometer went nuts in mid range power settings but worked
fine above 2200 RPM and below 1700.
The only problem with the Garmin stuff was I needed to attach a pin to
ground to enable the built-in intercom on my SL-30. I also had issues
setting the squelch, but that was just an operator issue.
5. Several times I had the quick drains in the fuel tanks turn into
slow leaks. This was caused by tiny pieces of aluminum getting caught
in the tiny O-ring that seals the quick drain. I got an extra quick
drain valve and learned how to replace a faulty one with a pail under
the stream of fuel to collect that fuel that escapes between the time I
remove one and install the other one. Then it is a relatively simple
task to clean out the defective seal and put it aside for the next
occurrence of this problem.
6. At one point I discovered the carburetor was barely attached to the
engine. It was held in place by the air intake hose but this was still
a bit scary. It was easy to loosen both hose clamps that hold the
carburetor and push it firmly in place before tightening the clamps again.
7. Another carburetor problem -- the small hose connecting the
carburetor to the air box came off. This caused the engine to drop out
randomly with RPM dropping about 500 revs in turbulence when I reduced
power for descent. The engine ran more smoothly when I added power to
cruise levels. The original hose had a 3/16 ID and was quite loose on
the carburetor nipple. I got some vinyl hose with .170 ID at the
hardware store and it holds on and works just fine.
8. Elevator trim was not powerful enough to trim pitch when any flaps
were employed. I added an extra fixed tab to the rear of the original
one and found improvement but I was still unable to get neutral trim
with full flaps. A bigger tab fixed this. I think the final extra tab
was around 20 square inches to neutralize 20 degrees of flaps.
9. I had a lot of trouble getting the rudder into a neutral position in
flight. The nose gear centers when there is no weight on the gear and
the connections through the pedals and rudder cables pulls the rudder
one way or the other until you get this properly adjusted. This took me
many small changes. At one point I didn't like the number of exposed
threads in one of the turnbuckles and learned you can get forks that are
about a half inch longer than the normal ones to give you more
adjustment room. I only needed one of these extra length forks to allow
more "Left" rudder in the cable setup. (I am getting really good at
installing safety wire in turnbuckles.)
In all my experience at being a test pilot for an amateur (me) built
aircraft has been quite an experience. The only time I felt at all
scared was when the engine was cutting out. Mostly it has been a matter
of getting all the little adjustments made to make the plane fly
properly. Now, I am looking forward to spending some time in the
pattern learning how to do really nice approaches and landings.
Paul
Camas, WA
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mtherr(at)yahoo.com Guest
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Posted: Tue Sep 20, 2011 6:17 pm Post subject: Flight Test Update - N776PM |
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Thanks for sharing Paul. Now you should start to really enjoy your toy.
Do not archive
Sent from my iPad
On Sep 20, 2011, at 15:50, Paul Mulwitz <psm(at)att.net> wrote:
Quote: |
It's been a little over two months since my Zodiac XL got its airworthiness certificate. Yesterday I had my first flight with no squawks. I figured it is time to spread the word on the things I found. Current flight time is around 17 hours. My typical test flight was just over one half hour with just one landing. This might have been a bit shorter if I didn't have to get out from under a class C terminal area before climbing to a reasonable test altitude.
Yesterday the air was reasonably cool - around 60 on the ground so it must have been around 45 at 5000 MSL where I did my testing. At full throttle the engine ran smoothly and the plane indicated around 120 knots. I have not calibrated the airspeed yet, but casual comparison with GPS ground speed suggests it is pretty close to correct. I have a Jabiru 3300A with wood Sensenich 64ZK49 propeller (standard stuff when you buy the FWF package from Pete at USA Jabiru). Cylinder head temperatures were all green with the highest around 320. Oil temperature was around 170. At WOT engine RPM was just over 3000 RPM at 5000 MSL. CHTs in full throttle climb were around 1100 and in high cruise around 1300.
I am sure I can't remember all the problems I fixed in the first two months of phase I flight test, but I'll try to recount as many as I can.
1. Engine cooling was a big problem. My first attempt at adding rubber seals at the front of the cooing ducts was not correct. I should have fitted the rubber seals carefully to the inlets in the cowl. I also needed to adjust the air dams in the right duct (cylinders 1,3,5) but the other one never needed any adjustment.
2. Nose gear bearings were too tight. The plastic bearings at both the top and bottom of the nose gear column restricted movement instead of just guiding it. The nose should move up and down easily when you put your weight on the propeller drive shaft. The plastic bearings as delivered from ZAC were much too tight. I loosened them on original installation but that wasn't enough.
3. Rudder does not return to center when you remove pressure from the pedals. This problem is unresolved. It doesn't present too much of a problem but it is difficult to keep the ball centered unless you give the left rudder pedal a good kick after maneuvering. A related unresolved problem is the nose tends to wander in yaw - especially in turbulence. I am thinking nice thoughts of adding some sort of fixed vertical stabilizer fin - probably on the bottom of the fuselage to correct this. It is not a big problem but makes flying a bit uncomfortable.
4. I had a few electronic problems with my Dynon and Garmin avionics. The Dynon tachometer needed to have a resistor installed in line with the connection to the alternator (through a fuse). Before adding the resistor the tachometer went nuts in mid range power settings but worked fine above 2200 RPM and below 1700.
The only problem with the Garmin stuff was I needed to attach a pin to ground to enable the built-in intercom on my SL-30. I also had issues setting the squelch, but that was just an operator issue.
5. Several times I had the quick drains in the fuel tanks turn into slow leaks. This was caused by tiny pieces of aluminum getting caught in the tiny O-ring that seals the quick drain. I got an extra quick drain valve and learned how to replace a faulty one with a pail under the stream of fuel to collect that fuel that escapes between the time I remove one and install the other one. Then it is a relatively simple task to clean out the defective seal and put it aside for the next occurrence of this problem.
6. At one point I discovered the carburetor was barely attached to the engine. It was held in place by the air intake hose but this was still a bit scary. It was easy to loosen both hose clamps that hold the carburetor and push it firmly in place before tightening the clamps again.
7. Another carburetor problem -- the small hose connecting the carburetor to the air box came off. This caused the engine to drop out randomly with RPM dropping about 500 revs in turbulence when I reduced power for descent. The engine ran more smoothly when I added power to cruise levels. The original hose had a 3/16 ID and was quite loose on the carburetor nipple. I got some vinyl hose with .170 ID at the hardware store and it holds on and works just fine.
8. Elevator trim was not powerful enough to trim pitch when any flaps were employed. I added an extra fixed tab to the rear of the original one and found improvement but I was still unable to get neutral trim with full flaps. A bigger tab fixed this. I think the final extra tab was around 20 square inches to neutralize 20 degrees of flaps.
9. I had a lot of trouble getting the rudder into a neutral position in flight. The nose gear centers when there is no weight on the gear and the connections through the pedals and rudder cables pulls the rudder one way or the other until you get this properly adjusted. This took me many small changes. At one point I didn't like the number of exposed threads in one of the turnbuckles and learned you can get forks that are about a half inch longer than the normal ones to give you more adjustment room. I only needed one of these extra length forks to allow more "Left" rudder in the cable setup. (I am getting really good at installing safety wire in turnbuckles.)
In all my experience at being a test pilot for an amateur (me) built aircraft has been quite an experience. The only time I felt at all scared was when the engine was cutting out. Mostly it has been a matter of getting all the little adjustments made to make the plane fly properly. Now, I am looking forward to spending some time in the pattern learning how to do really nice approaches and landings.
Paul
Camas, WA
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bryanmmartin
Joined: 10 Jan 2006 Posts: 1018
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Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 2:13 am Post subject: Flight Test Update - N776PM |
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Did you set the rudder cable tension with no weight on the nose-wheel? The rudder cable tension will decrease with any deflection of the strut due to weight on the wheel because of the angle of the strut. Too much tension will make it harder to self center in flight.
On Sep 20, 2011, at 3:50 PM, Paul Mulwitz wrote:
Quote: | 3. Rudder does not return to center when you remove pressure from the pedals. This problem is unresolved. It doesn't present too much of a problem but it is difficult to keep the ball centered unless you give the left rudder pedal a good kick after maneuvering.
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Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
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Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru.
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psm(at)att.net Guest
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Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 2:37 am Post subject: Flight Test Update - N776PM |
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Hi Brian,
The nose strut is fully extended when the plane is sitting normally.
This should center the nose wheel, but in my plane it doesn't do that.
I don't know exactly why. Also, in flight the nose wheel doesn't center
very well. It does rest on the "V" shape in the lower bearing block,
but the rotation of the column seems somewhat random. If I kick the
left pedal it moves left and stays there. Similarly, if I kick the
right pedal it stays rotated a bit to the right.
I spoke with an engineer from ZAC about this when I was at OSH. He
suggested reducing the "V" shape and making it more flat. This is
supposed to make it easier to rotate the nose gear while loaded by the
huge bungee.
I don't think there is any relationship between the strut position and
rudder cable tension. Rudder cable tension works against the position
of the rudder pedals. The rudder pedals don't move when the strut goes
up and down.
I have been careful to set all the cable tensions according to the
latest requirements from ZAC. This is problematical since some of the
required information is not specified. The elevator position is
critical to the elevator cable tensions but there is no discussion of
this position in any of the documents I have seen. Fortunately, it
doesn't seem to make much difference what elevator cable tension is used.
Paul
On 9/21/2011 3:10 AM, Bryan Martin wrote:
Quote: |
Did you set the rudder cable tension with no weight on the nose-wheel? The rudder cable tension will decrease with any deflection of the strut due to weight on the wheel because of the angle of the strut. Too much tension will make it harder to self center in flight.
On Sep 20, 2011, at 3:50 PM, Paul Mulwitz wrote:
> 3. Rudder does not return to center when you remove pressure from the pedals. This problem is unresolved. It doesn't present too much of a problem but it is difficult to keep the ball centered unless you give the left rudder pedal a good kick after maneuvering.
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jaybannist(at)cs.com Guest
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Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 4:28 am Post subject: Flight Test Update - N776PM |
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Paul is wrong about the relationship of the nose gear strut position to the rudder pedals. The nose gear strut position definitely does effect the rudder pedals. If it moves up, both pedals move rearward, loosening the rudder cables. The attached pdf shows the geometry.
However, it did not effect my setting of the rudder cable tension since the bungee kept the nose gear strut on the stop without lifting the nose.
Jay
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psm(at)att.net Guest
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Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 6:13 am Post subject: Flight Test Update - N776PM |
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Hi Jay,
Looking at your drawing, I would guess the amount of rudder pedal movement caused by nose gear strut movement is a function of the setting of the angle of the rudder pedals. Put differently, if the pedals are moved toward the rear (for short legged guys like me) then the correlated movement would be minimal. If the pedals are set forward (for tall guys) then the movement would be more pronounced.
In any case, I agree with Bob that it is not a great idea to make things different by reducing the rudder cable tension. I think my approach of adjusting the relative rudder cable lengths is a better way to get neutral rudder trim.
Paul
P.S. I had a typo in my tail number. It is N773PM.
On 9/21/2011 5:25 AM, Jay Bannister wrote: [quote]Paul is wrong about the relationship of the nose gear strut position to the rudder pedals. The nose gear strut position definitely does effect the rudder pedals. If it moves up, both pedals move rearward, loosening the rudder cables. The attached pdf shows the geometry.
However, it did not effect my setting of the rudder cable tension since the bungee kept the nose gear strut on the stop without lifting the nose.
Jay [b]
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jaybannist(at)cs.com Guest
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Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 6:48 am Post subject: Flight Test Update - N776PM |
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Not so. The geometry remains the same.
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psm(at)att.net Guest
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Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 7:08 am Post subject: Flight Test Update - N776PM |
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Jay,
I don't want to make a big argument over this, but I'm afraid you are not seeing the truth.
The angle between the rudder pedals and the nose gear strut will influence how movement in the strut will cause movement in the pedals. Technically this is not geometry but is trigonometry. Perhaps you are not considering that a change in angle between the pedals and strut requires a change in length of the tie rods.
If the pedals and strut are parallel then a small movement in the strut will not cause a noticeable movement in the pedals. As the angle increases the connected movement increases. I'm sure there is a SIN or COS function here somewhere but I don't have the energy to work out the equations.
In the real world, the strut doesn't move very far at all because the bungee is very strong. I have tried to move it on the ground and my weight is only enough to get the strut to move an inch or so. It needs to be free to move, but I doubt you will ever see much more than an inch or two in the strut which might translate to a few millimeters movement in the rudder pedals.
Respectfully,
Paul
On 9/21/2011 7:44 AM, Jay Bannister wrote: [quote]Not so. The geometry remains the same.
-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Mulwitz <psm(at)att.net> (psm(at)att.net)
To: zenith601-list <zenith601-list(at)matronics.com> (zenith601-list(at)matronics.com)
Sent: Wed, Sep 21, 2011 9:15 am
Subject: Re: Flight Test Update - N776PM
Hi Jay,
Looking at your drawing, I would guess the amount of rudder pedal movement caused by nose gear strut movement is a function of the setting of the angle of the rudder pedals. Put differently, if the pedals are moved toward the rear (for short legged guys like me) then the correlated movement would be minimal. If the pedals are set forward (for tall guys) then the movement would be more pronounced.
In any case, I agree with Bob that it is not a great idea to make things different by reducing the rudder cable tension. I think my approach of adjusting the relative rudder cable lengths is a better way to get neutral rudder trim.
Paul
[b]
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jaybannist(at)cs.com Guest
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Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 7:26 am Post subject: Flight Test Update - N776PM |
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Paul,
Respectfully - you are dead wrong. My graphic triggernometry is accurate and what I am telling you is factual.
And you won't make a big argument over this because this is my last post on the subject.
Jay
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JohnDRead(at)aol.com Guest
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Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 3:15 pm Post subject: Flight Test Update - N776PM |
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Jay,
You had better go and recheck your trigonometry. Adjusting the pedals to the rear making the axis of the rudder pedal parallel to the nose strut will fix the cable tension problem. This problem is similar the need to have the axis of the elevator bellcrank parrallel to the pivot points on the elevator. do not archive.
Regards, John
CH701 - Colorado - Jabiru 3300
Cell: 719-494-4567
Home: 303-648-3261
[quote][b]
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jaybannist(at)cs.com Guest
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Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 4:17 pm Post subject: Flight Test Update - N776PM |
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crickets
do not archive
--
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bryanmmartin
Joined: 10 Jan 2006 Posts: 1018
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Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 6:43 pm Post subject: Flight Test Update - N776PM |
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The nose strut slides up and down parallel to the firewall, the rudder pedals are fixed to pivot at the bottom to the cabin floor and higher up to the steering rods connected to the nose strut. This configuration makes it impossible for the pedals to remain parallel to the strut as the strut deflects. This means that the rudder cable tension will vary with strut deflection. If the distance between the connection points of the cable at the pedal and at the rudder horn varies by a small amount, it will have a significant effect on the cable tension.
The cable tension on the ground is not important, the in-flight tension is very important. So, the tension should be set for the in-flight configuration, i.e. with zero strut deflection. Even an sixteenth of an inch of deflection can have a significant effect on tension. If the cables are too tight in flight, friction may make it difficult to self center.
On Sep 21, 2011, at 11:04 AM, Paul Mulwitz wrote:
[quote] Jay,
I don't want to make a big argument over this, but I'm afraid you are not seeing the truth.
The angle between the rudder pedals and the nose gear strut will influence how movement in the strut will cause movement in the pedals. Technically this is not geometry but is trigonometry. Perhaps you are not considering that a change in angle between the pedals and strut requires a change in length of the tie rods.
If the pedals and strut are parallel then a small movement in the strut will not cause a noticeable movement in the pedals. As the angle increases the connected movement increases. I'm sure there is a SIN or COS function here somewhere but I don't have the energy to work out the equations.
In the real world, the strut doesn't move very far at all because the bungee is very strong. I have tried to move it on the ground and my weight is only enough to get the strut to move an inch or so. It needs to be free to move, but I doubt you will ever see much more than an inch or two in the strut which might translate to a few millimeters movement in the rudder pedals.
Respectfully,
Paul
On 9/21/2011 7:44 AM, Jay Bannister wrote:
> Not so. The geometry remains the same.
>
>
>
>
> --
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Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru.
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psm(at)att.net Guest
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Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 7:00 pm Post subject: Flight Test Update - N776PM |
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Hi Bryan,
I agree with your comment in principle, but the actual amount of
movement in the rudder pedals will vary depending on the configuration.
The Zodiac has fixed seat location, so the only way to adjust the
position for people of different length legs is to rotate the rudder
pedals in their neutral location. If you rotate them back far enough
the upright portion of the rudder pedal can be parallel to the nose gear
strut. In this case small movements in the strut will make much smaller
movements in the rudder pedals. This is because the rods connecting the
strut to the pedals will be perpendicular to the pedal upright members
and can move without really moving the pedal much at all.
As you move the pedals closer to the firewall for taller people the
angle between the tie rods and the pedal upright member moves away from
90 degrees. This means the same movement in the strut will have a
bigger impact on the rudder pedal location.
As I mentioned earlier, the nose strut movement is pretty small. I have
not measured it in normal flight and landing events, but I would guess a
normal (gentle) touchdown might move the strut less than an inch. In
this case and the case of setting the pedals for a short legged pilot I
doubt you would be able to measure any change at all in either the pedal
position or cable tension.
I agree with you that the tension in flight is the most important. This
is the normal situation anyway since the normal position of the strut
when the plane is on the ground is fully extended.
Paul
On 9/21/2011 7:40 PM, Bryan Martin wrote:
[quote]
The nose strut slides up and down parallel to the firewall, the rudder pedals are fixed to pivot at the bottom to the cabin floor and higher up to the steering rods connected to the nose strut. This configuration makes it impossible for the pedals to remain parallel to the strut as the strut deflects. This means that the rudder cable tension will vary with strut deflection. If the distance between the connection points of the cable at the pedal and at the rudder horn varies by a small amount, it will have a significant effect on the cable tension.
The cable tension on the ground is not important, the in-flight tension is very important. So, the tension should be set for the in-flight configuration, i.e. with zero strut deflection. Even an sixteenth of an inch of deflection can have a significant effect on tension. If the cables are too tight in flight, friction may make it difficult to self center.
On Sep 21, 2011, at 11:04 AM, Paul Mulwitz wrote:
> Jay,
>
> I don't want to make a big argument over this, but I'm afraid you are not seeing the truth.
>
> The angle between the rudder pedals and the nose gear strut will influence how movement in the strut will cause movement in the pedals. Technically this is not geometry but is trigonometry. Perhaps you are not considering that a change in angle between the pedals and strut requires a change in length of the tie rods.
>
> If the pedals and strut are parallel then a small movement in the strut will not cause a noticeable movement in the pedals. As the angle increases the connected movement increases. I'm sure there is a SIN or COS function here somewhere but I don't have the energy to work out the equations.
>
> In the real world, the strut doesn't move very far at all because the bungee is very strong. I have tried to move it on the ground and my weight is only enough to get the strut to move an inch or so. It needs to be free to move, but I doubt you will ever see much more than an inch or two in the strut which might translate to a few millimeters movement in the rudder pedals.
>
> Respectfully,
>
> Paul
>
> On 9/21/2011 7:44 AM, Jay Bannister wrote:
>> Not so. The geometry remains the same.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
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rsteele(at)rjsit.com Guest
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Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 7:36 pm Post subject: Flight Test Update - N776PM |
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Without rehashing the geometry, I will say that the only two 601s I've
seen with the cowl off did NOT have the strut fully extended on the
ground. One hasn't yet flown (mine) but the other has with no
complaints that I'm aware of. Might this be a clue to your problem?
I'm curious about the at rest positions other may have seen.
Keep up the reports. Very interesting.
Ron
DO NOT ARCHIVE
On Sep 21, 2011, at 10:58 PM, Paul Mulwitz wrote:
Quote: |
I agree with you that the tension in flight is the most important.
This is the normal situation anyway since the normal position of the
strut when the plane is on the ground is fully extended.
Paul
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psm(at)att.net Guest
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Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 8:07 pm Post subject: Flight Test Update - N776PM |
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Hi Ron,
How far depressed was the strut in the cases you saw? What engine did
these planes have?
Keep in mind the Jabiru engine I have installed is much lighter than a
Continental, Lycoming, Corvair, or Subaru. The only engine that has a
similar weight is the Rotax 912. I believe there is a 100 pound
difference (give or take) in the installed weight of the Rotax and
Jabiru compared to the other engines. I'm sure the engine weight can
have an impact on the resting position of the nose strut.
Paul
On 9/21/2011 8:34 PM, Ronald Steele wrote:
Quote: |
Without rehashing the geometry, I will say that the only two 601s I've
seen with the cowl off did NOT have the strut fully extended on the
ground. One hasn't yet flown (mine) but the other has with no
complaints that I'm aware of. Might this be a clue to your problem?
I'm curious about the at rest positions other may have seen.
Keep up the reports. Very interesting.
Ron
DO NOT ARCHIVE
On Sep 21, 2011, at 10:58 PM, Paul Mulwitz wrote:
>
> I agree with you that the tension in flight is the most important.
> This is the normal situation anyway since the normal position of the
> strut when the plane is on the ground is fully extended.
>
> Paul
>
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daveaustin2(at)primus.ca Guest
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Posted: Thu Sep 22, 2011 10:35 am Post subject: Flight Test Update - N776PM |
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---
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psm(at)att.net Guest
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Posted: Thu Sep 22, 2011 11:01 am Post subject: Flight Test Update - N776PM |
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Hi Dave,
I don't know for sure, but I think that would not be a problem. The
trim tab size increase is something less than 50 percent. Also, the
elevator authority is a lot higher than the total trim force.
I have taken off without adjusting the trim from full flaps to neutral
with no flaps and the amount of force needed to get the desired pitch
was easy to generate. This might be a direct answer to your question.
Paul
Camas, WA
On 9/22/2011 11:32 AM, Dave Austin wrote:
Quote: |
> Hi Paul,
> Interesting comments. One question: With your enlarged trim tab, if
> you had an elevator trim tab runaway (I have!) can you overcome it
> with the stick? Try it at a high altitude before you do get a runaway!
> Dave Austin HDS 912U
>
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rsteele(at)rjsit.com Guest
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Posted: Thu Sep 22, 2011 2:20 pm Post subject: Flight Test Update - N776PM |
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Not depressed much, may 1/8". The point is that if you have no
depression, you my have a bungee that is too strong and you may be
getting some friction at the top of the strut that interferes with the
self centering.
Ron
On Sep 22, 2011, at 12:04 AM, Paul Mulwitz wrote:
Quote: |
Hi Ron,
How far depressed was the strut in the cases you saw? What engine
did these planes have?
Keep in mind the Jabiru engine I have installed is much lighter than
a Continental, Lycoming, Corvair, or Subaru. The only engine that
has a similar weight is the Rotax 912. I believe there is a 100
pound difference (give or take) in the installed weight of the Rotax
and Jabiru compared to the other engines. I'm sure the engine
weight can have an impact on the resting position of the nose strut.
Paul
On 9/21/2011 8:34 PM, Ronald Steele wrote:
>
> >
>
> Without rehashing the geometry, I will say that the only two 601s
> I've seen with the cowl off did NOT have the strut fully extended
> on the ground. One hasn't yet flown (mine) but the other has with
> no complaints that I'm aware of. Might this be a clue to your
> problem? I'm curious about the at rest positions other may have
> seen.
>
> Keep up the reports. Very interesting.
>
> Ron
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
> On Sep 21, 2011, at 10:58 PM, Paul Mulwitz wrote:
>
>>
>> I agree with you that the tension in flight is the most
>> important. This is the normal situation anyway since the normal
>> position of the strut when the plane is on the ground is fully
>> extended.
>>
>> Paul
>>
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