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bobemery51(at)gmail.com
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 Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 2:17 am Post subject: Zenith601-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 09/20/11 |
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Good work Paul.
I have had similar experiences in my Zodiac (Jab 3300). Now all of 15 hrs
old, but going OK with issues.
1 Cooling. I had best results installing a splitter in the air intake
scat tubing before the Bing carb.
Also by enlarging and putting a lip (45 degrees) of the lower cowl air exit
area. (as per the new Jabiru planes) and as Eddie Seve did here at Cessnock.
My temps similar to yours.
2 Rudder not centering. My neighbor fixed his by experimenting with
cable tensions (increase/decrease), but this can be dangerous. I also
lubricated the nose wheel bearing surface, seemed to help, but I agree you
need to continually monitor the ball, more than you should need to.
I have a Sensenich ground adjustable prop, which I am still playing with. I
would like to get the prop balanced when I settle on a pitch, but can't get
it done around here.
3 Radio Still fiddling, but I think a dodgy aerial connector crimp
was to blame. I have a MicroAir radio.
I fitted a fuel flow meter today, and flew it after, works great (feeds into
the Dynon)
I flew in a Zenith 601 to Naromine (3 hrs) with my neighbor Phil Hale on the
weekend (SAAA fly-in) saw a few Zodiacs and got some ideas.
Keep up the articles, I will give a more complete picture of my journey
once registered (about a month I hope)
Bob Emery Cessnock NSW (probably flying to WA mid next year- moving back)
--
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psm(at)att.net
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| Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 2:57 am Post subject: Zenith601-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 09/20/11 |
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Hi Bob,
I'm not sure I know what you mean by installing a splitter in the air intake tubing to the carburetor. Perhaps you did something like I did but use a different word for the device.
I made a "Straightener" and installed it just before the main input to the carburetor. Here is a picture:
[img]cid:part1.05000809.08030307(at)att.net[/img]
I made and installed this part after having the engine run a bit rough when going from high cruise to WOT. I'm not sure it actually did any good because when I installed it I noticed the carburetor was not properly attached to the engine. After properly attaching the carburetor and also installing the straightener the engine ran very smoothly all the way to WOT. I just don't know which change actually made it work correctly. (The straightener I made is 1.5 inches deep and 2 1/4 inches diameter.)
On the rudder "Pulling" issue, I didn't change the cable tension. I loosened one side and then adjusted the other side to get the proper tension. The effect was to lengthen one rudder cable while shortening the other one. This was done a turn or two at a time on the turnbuckles.
I haven't done any distance flights yet in my Zodiac. The longest flight was a half hour to get to the airport where I had the transponder certified. This was necessary for me to legally use the transponder which is a great idea since my plane is based at an airport under a class "C" terminal area. The actual distance from starting airport to destination is only about 35 nautical miles but I couldn't go in a straight line because of the main airport in Portland, OR being in the way.
Hopefully, I can get some longer flights in now that the "Squawk" fixing period is mostly over. I need to hit 40 hours before signing the plane out of phase I testing and gaining freedom to fly all over the USA. (I am not welcome in Canada without a medical certificate, and I don't want to go to Mexico where drug violence is out of control.)
Paul
On 9/21/2011 3:15 AM, Bob Emery wrote: [quote] [quote]--> Zenith601-List message posted by: "Bob Emery" <bobemery51(at)gmail.com> (bobemery51(at)gmail.com) Good work Paul. I have had similar experiences in my Zodiac (Jab 3300). Now all of 15 hrs old, but going OK with issues. 1 Cooling. I had best results installing a splitter in the air intake scat tubing before the Bing carb. Also by enlarging and putting a lip (45 degrees) of the lower cowl air exit area. (as per the new Jabiru planes) and as Eddie Seve did here at Cessnock. My temps similar to yours. 2 Rudder not centering. My neighbor fixed his by experimenting with cable tensions (increase/decrease), but this can be dangerous. I also lubricated the nose wheel bearing surface, seemed to help, but I agree you need to continually monitor the ball, more than you should need to. I have a Sensenich ground adjustable prop, which I am still playing with. I would like to get the prop balanced when I settle on a pitch, but can't get it done around here. 3 Radio Still fiddling, but I think a dodgy aerial connector crimp was to blame. I have a MicroAir radio. I fitted a fuel flow meter today, and flew it after, works great (feeds into the Dynon) I flew in a Zenith 601 to Naromine (3 hrs) with my neighbor Phil Hale on the weekend (SAAA fly-in) saw a few Zodiacs and got some ideas. Keep up the articles, I will give a more complete picture of my journey once registered (about a month I hope) Bob Emery Cessnock NSW (probably flying to WA mid next year- moving back) --
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DaveG601XL
Joined: 27 Oct 2006
Posts: 351
Location: Cincinnati, Oh
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| Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 9:27 am Post subject: Re: Zenith601-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 09/20/11 |
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Paul,
On the rudder, do you suspect that the nose gear strut is binding things up? When I first assembled my nose gear, the lower bearing was acting more like a shaft clamp. I put a thin aluminum shim between the two bearing halves and got the movement I desired. No problems with 3 years and 200 hours of flying. Yeah, you still have to push a Zenith rudder harder than you would in a Champ to overcome the initial "centering tendency," but I have no problems with it going back to center.
Hope this helps,
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David Gallagher
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psm(at)att.net
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| Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 11:13 am Post subject: Zenith601-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 09/20/11 |
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Hi David,
Yes, I like your description of a clamp.
I wound up taking the lower blocks off and grinding the hole a bit
bigger so the column moves freely. I guess there is still a side load
from the tie rods connected to the rudder pedals. I also have a tight
upper bearing but I don't think that has an impact on rotation. I don't
know how to remove the upper bearing without removing the bungee. I had
no problem installing and removing the bungee before the engine was
installed, but now it looks like a real bear.
I was just out doing some circuits and bumps. I found if I land with
full flaps the nose wheel behaves when it touches down, but if I do a
no-flaps landing it tends to shimmy when it touches down. I wish I know
enough about mechanical design to be able to figure out how to stop the
shimmy at higher speeds.
Paul
On 9/21/2011 10:27 AM, DaveG601XL wrote:
| Quote: |
Paul,
On the rudder, do you suspect that the nose gear strut is binding things up? When I first assembled my nose gear, the lower bearing was acting more like a shaft clamp. I put a thin aluminum shim between the two bearing halves and got the movement I desired. No problems with 3 years and 200 hours of flying. Yeah, you still have to push a Zenith rudder harder than you would in a Champ to overcome the initial "centering tendency," but I have no problems with it going back to center.
Hope this helps,
--------
David Gallagher
601 XL: flying
Next project: Pietenpol
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=352872#352872
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NYTerminat(at)aol.com
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| Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 1:15 pm Post subject: Zenith601-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 09/20/11 |
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Paul, did you check the balance of the front tire and rim?
Bob Spudis
In a message dated 9/21/2011 3:14:49 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, psm(at)att.net writes:
| Quote: | --> Zenith601-List message posted by: Paul Mulwitz <psm(at)att.net>
Hi David,
Yes, I like your description of a clamp.
I wound up taking the lower blocks off and grinding the hole a bit
bigger so the column moves freely. I guess there is still a side load
from the tie rods connected to the rudder pedals. I also have a tight
upper bearing but I don't think that has an impact on rotation. I don't
know how to remove the upper bearing without removing the bungee. I had
no problem installing and removing the bungee before the engine was
installed, but now it looks like a real bear.
I was just out doing some circuits and bumps. I found if I land with
full flaps the nose wheel behaves when it touches down, but if I do a
no-flaps landing it tends to shimmy when it touches down. I wish I know
enough about mechanical design to be able to figure out how to stop the
shimmy at higher speeds.
Paul
On 9/21/2011 10:27 AM, DaveG601XL wrote:
| Quote: | --> Zenith601-List message posted by: "DaveG601XL"<david.m.gallagher(at)ge.com>
Paul,
On the rudder, do you suspect that the nose gear strut is binding things up? When I first assembled my nose gear, the lower bearing was acting more like a shaft clamp. I put a thin aluminum shim between the two bearing halves and got the movement I desired. No problems with 3 years and 200 hours of flying. Yeah, you still have to push a Zenith rudder harder than you would in a Champ to overcome the initial "centering tendency," but I have no problems with it going back to center.
Hope this helps,
--------
David Gallagher
601 XL: flying
Next project: Pietenpol
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=352872#352872
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[quote][b]
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psm(at)att.net
Guest
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| Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 1:38 pm Post subject: Zenith601-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 09/20/11 |
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Hi Bob,
No, I didn't check the balance of the nose wheel.
What I did do was make the mistake of thinking if I kept a low tire pressure it would cushion the nose and give me softer touch-down bumps. Unfortunately, the Matco wheel doesn't hold the tire and tube very well without a reasonably high pressure in the tire. The result was the tire and tube rotated in the wheel and turned the metal valve stem into a pretzel. I replaced the tube assembly with one I had laying around the shop and didn't consider the balancing issue.
I suppose the nose gear vibrations could be a wheel balance issue, but I can really feel the side to side motion in the rudder pedals when the gear touches down at relatively high speed. My guess is the direct linkage between the pedals and the strut really need some sort of shock absorber or damper in the connection someplace.
I also guess the source of the vibration is a slight misalignment between the nose wheel and runway at touchdown. There doesn't seem to be any feature in this design that straightens out the wheel when it is a little out of alignment. The last plane I flew (a Tecnam Echo Super) had a trailing link design in the nose gear that naturally wants to go straight.
Paul
On 9/21/2011 2:12 PM, NYTerminat(at)aol.com (NYTerminat(at)aol.com) wrote: [quote] Paul, did you check the balance of the front tire and rim?
Bob Spudis
In a message dated 9/21/2011 3:14:49 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, psm(at)att.net (psm(at)att.net) writes:
| Quote: | --> Zenith601-List message posted by: Paul Mulwitz <psm(at)att.net> (psm(at)att.net)
Hi David,
Yes, I like your description of a clamp.
I wound up taking the lower blocks off and grinding the hole a bit
bigger so the column moves freely. I guess there is still a side load
from the tie rods connected to the rudder pedals. I also have a tight
upper bearing but I don't think that has an impact on rotation. I don't
know how to remove the upper bearing without removing the bungee. I had
no problem installing and removing the bungee before the engine was
installed, but now it looks like a real bear.
I was just out doing some circuits and bumps. I found if I land with
full flaps the nose wheel behaves when it touches down, but if I do a
no-flaps landing it tends to shimmy when it touches down. I wish I know
enough about mechanical design to be able to figure out how to stop the
shimmy at higher speeds.
Paul
On 9/21/2011 10:27 AM, DaveG601XL wrote:
> --> Zenith601-List message posted by: "DaveG601XL"<david.m.gallagher(at)ge.com> (david.m.gallagher(at)ge.com)
>
> Paul,
>
> On the rudder, do you suspect that the nose gear strut is binding things up? When I first assembled my nose gear, the lower bearing was acting more like a shaft clamp. I put a thin aluminum shim between the two bearing halves and got the movement I desired. No problems with 3 years and 200 hours of flying. Yeah, you still have to push a Zenith rudder harder than you would in a Champ to overcome the initial "centering tendency," but I have no problems with it going back to center.
>
> Hope this helps,
>
> --------
> David Gallagher
> 601 XL: flying
> Next project: Pietenpol
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=352872#352872
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
|
[b]
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NYTerminat(at)aol.com
Guest
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| Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 1:57 pm Post subject: Zenith601-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 09/20/11 |
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|
Paul
My 701 will get a shake at high speeds and will stop as it slows down. I know that it is the balancing and will take care of it at the next conditional inspection. Not sure what I will use for balance though.
Bob
In a message dated 9/21/2011 5:39:12 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, psm(at)att.net writes:
| Quote: | Hi Bob,
No, I didn't check the balance of the nose wheel.
What I did do was make the mistake of thinking if I kept a low tire pressure it would cushion the nose and give me softer touch-down bumps. Unfortunately, the Matco wheel doesn't hold the tire and tube very well without a reasonably high pressure in the tire. The result was the tire and tube rotated in the wheel and turned the metal valve stem into a pretzel. I replaced the tube assembly with one I had laying around the shop and didn't consider the balancing issue.
I suppose the nose gear vibrations could be a wheel balance issue, but I can really feel the side to side motion in the rudder pedals when the gear touches down at relatively high speed. My guess is the direct linkage between the pedals and the strut really need some sort of shock absorber or damper in the connection someplace.
I also guess the source of the vibration is a slight misalignment between the nose wheel and runway at touchdown. There doesn't seem to be any feature in this design that straightens out the wheel when it is a little out of alignment. The last plane I flew (a Tecnam Echo Super) had a trailing link design in the nose gear that naturally wants to go straight.
Paul
On 9/21/2011 2:12 PM, NYTerminat(at)aol.com (NYTerminat(at)aol.com) wrote: | Quote: | Paul, did you check the balance of the front tire and rim?
Bob Spudis
In a message dated 9/21/2011 3:14:49 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, psm(at)att.net (psm(at)att.net) writes:
| Quote: | --> Zenith601-List message posted by: Paul Mulwitz <psm(at)att.net> (psm(at)att.net)
Hi David,
Yes, I like your description of a clamp.
I wound up taking the lower blocks off and grinding the hole a bit
bigger so the column moves freely. I guess there is still a side load
from the tie rods connected to the rudder pedals. I also have a tight
upper bearing but I don't think that has an impact on rotation. I don't
know how to remove the upper bearing without removing the bungee. I had
no problem installing and removing the bungee before the engine was
installed, but now it looks like a real bear.
I was just out doing some circuits and bumps. I found if I land with
full flaps the nose wheel behaves when it touches down, but if I do a
no-flaps landing it tends to shimmy when it touches down. I wish I know
enough about mechanical design to be able to figure out how to stop the
shimmy at higher speeds.
Paul
On 9/21/2011 10:27 AM, DaveG601XL wrote:
| Quote: | --> Zenith601-List message posted by: "DaveG601XL"<david.m.gallagher(at)ge.com> (david.m.gallagher(at)ge.com)
Paul,
On the rudder, do you suspect that the nose gear strut is binding things up? When I first assembled my nose gear, the lower bearing was acting more like a shaft clamp. I put a thin aluminum shim between the two bearing halves and got the movement I desired. No problems with 3 years and 200 hours of flying. Yeah, you still have to push a Zenith rudder harder than you would in a Champ to overcome the initial "centering tendency," but I have no problems with it going back to center.
Hope this helps,
--------
David Gallagher
601 XL: flying
Next project: Pietenpol
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=352872#352872
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href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith601-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith601-List
s.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com
p://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
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[quote][b]
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psm(at)att.net
Guest
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| Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 2:09 pm Post subject: Zenith601-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 09/20/11 |
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HI Bob,
If I wanted to do that (and I am now considering it) I would take the whole wheel assembly down to my local tire shop and ask them to balance it. They have both the tools and weights to do the job and already know how to do it.
Paul
On 9/21/2011 2:55 PM, NYTerminat(at)aol.com (NYTerminat(at)aol.com) wrote: [quote] Paul
My 701 will get a shake at high speeds and will stop as it slows down. I know that it is the balancing and will take care of it at the next conditional inspection. Not sure what I will use for balance though.
Bob
In a message dated 9/21/2011 5:39:12 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, psm(at)att.net (psm(at)att.net) writes:
| Quote: | Hi Bob,
No, I didn't check the balance of the nose wheel.
What I did do was make the mistake of thinking if I kept a low tire pressure it would cushion the nose and give me softer touch-down bumps. Unfortunately, the Matco wheel doesn't hold the tire and tube very well without a reasonably high pressure in the tire. The result was the tire and tube rotated in the wheel and turned the metal valve stem into a pretzel. I replaced the tube assembly with one I had laying around the shop and didn't consider the balancing issue.
I suppose the nose gear vibrations could be a wheel balance issue, but I can really feel the side to side motion in the rudder pedals when the gear touches down at relatively high speed. My guess is the direct linkage between the pedals and the strut really need some sort of shock absorber or damper in the connection someplace.
I also guess the source of the vibration is a slight misalignment between the nose wheel and runway at touchdown. There doesn't seem to be any feature in this design that straightens out the wheel when it is a little out of alignment. The last plane I flew (a Tecnam Echo Super) had a trailing link design in the nose gear that naturally wants to go straight.
Paul
On 9/21/2011 2:12 PM, NYTerminat(at)aol.com (NYTerminat(at)aol.com) wrote: | Quote: | Paul, did you check the balance of the front tire and rim?
Bob Spudis
In a message dated 9/21/2011 3:14:49 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, psm(at)att.net (psm(at)att.net) writes:
| Quote: | --> Zenith601-List message posted by: Paul Mulwitz <psm(at)att.net> (psm(at)att.net)
Hi David,
Yes, I like your description of a clamp.
I wound up taking the lower blocks off and grinding the hole a bit
bigger so the column moves freely. I guess there is still a side load
from the tie rods connected to the rudder pedals. I also have a tight
upper bearing but I don't think that has an impact on rotation. I don't
know how to remove the upper bearing without removing the bungee. I had
no problem installing and removing the bungee before the engine was
installed, but now it looks like a real bear.
I was just out doing some circuits and bumps. I found if I land with
full flaps the nose wheel behaves when it touches down, but if I do a
no-flaps landing it tends to shimmy when it touches down. I wish I know
enough about mechanical design to be able to figure out how to stop the
shimmy at higher speeds.
Paul
On 9/21/2011 10:27 AM, DaveG601XL wrote:
> --> Zenith601-List message posted by: "DaveG601XL"<david.m.gallagher(at)ge.com> (david.m.gallagher(at)ge.com)
>
> Paul,
>
> On the rudder, do you suspect that the nose gear strut is binding things up? When I first assembled my nose gear, the lower bearing was acting more like a shaft clamp. I put a thin aluminum shim between the two bearing halves and got the movement I desired. No problems with 3 years and 200 hours of flying. Yeah, you still have to push a Zenith rudder harder than you would in a Champ to overcome the initial "centering tendency," but I have no problems with it going back to center.
>
> Hope this helps,
>
> --------
> David Gallagher
> 601 XL: flying
> Next project: Pietenpol
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=352872#352872
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
|
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith601-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith601-List
s.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com
p://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
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[b]
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Brad(at)ocbis.com
Guest
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| Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 2:39 pm Post subject: Zenith601-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 09/20/11 |
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Paul –
I had a 180 MPH dragster that used the small aircraft wheels and tires we are dealing with, and it’s very easy to balance them at home. Just level the spindle, remove the grease and seals from the bearing, lube the bearings with a light oil, assemble the wheel and bearings on the spindle but only put the spindle nut on where it is just touching the bearings. Give it a light spin and wait for it to stop. The heavy part of the tire will be at 6 O’clock, mark the tire at the position. Do it a couple of times to verify the heavy spot always ends up at 6:00. After that, all you need to do is get some of the stick-on tire weight and apply them opposite the heavy mark until the tire balances. Make sure you clean the wheel real well with solvent before putting the stick-on weights on. On the drag cars we used to put a layer of racer tape over the weight as a precaution, but the stick-on weight glue is really good.
Thanks - Brad
Brad Rawls
Brad(at)ocbis.com
From: owner-zenith601-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-zenith601-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Mulwitz
Sent: Wednesday, September 21, 2011 3:06 PM
To: zenith601-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Re: Zenith601-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 09/20/11
HI Bob,
If I wanted to do that (and I am now considering it) I would take the whole wheel assembly down to my local tire shop and ask them to balance it. They have both the tools and weights to do the job and already know how to do it.
Paul
On 9/21/2011 2:55 PM, NYTerminat(at)aol.com (NYTerminat(at)aol.com) wrote:
Paul
My 701 will get a shake at high speeds and will stop as it slows down. I know that it is the balancing and will take care of it at the next conditional inspection. Not sure what I will use for balance though.
Bob
In a message dated 9/21/2011 5:39:12 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, psm(at)att.net (psm(at)att.net) writes:
| Quote: |
Hi Bob,
No, I didn't check the balance of the nose wheel.
What I did do was make the mistake of thinking if I kept a low tire pressure it would cushion the nose and give me softer touch-down bumps. Unfortunately, the Matco wheel doesn't hold the tire and tube very well without a reasonably high pressure in the tire. The result was the tire and tube rotated in the wheel and turned the metal valve stem into a pretzel. I replaced the tube assembly with one I had laying around the shop and didn't consider the balancing issue.
I suppose the nose gear vibrations could be a wheel balance issue, but I can really feel the side to side motion in the rudder pedals when the gear touches down at relatively high speed. My guess is the direct linkage between the pedals and the strut really need some sort of shock absorber or damper in the connection someplace.
I also guess the source of the vibration is a slight misalignment between the nose wheel and runway at touchdown. There doesn't seem to be any feature in this design that straightens out the wheel when it is a little out of alignment. The last plane I flew (a Tecnam Echo Super) had a trailing link design in the nose gear that naturally wants to go straight.
Paul
On 9/21/2011 2:12 PM, NYTerminat(at)aol.com (NYTerminat(at)aol.com) wrote:
Paul, did you check the balance of the front tire and rim?
Bob Spudis
In a message dated 9/21/2011 3:14:49 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, psm(at)att.net (psm(at)att.net) writes:
| Quote: |
--> Zenith601-List message posted by: Paul Mulwitz <psm(at)att.net> (psm(at)att.net)
Hi David,
Yes, I like your description of a clamp.
I wound up taking the lower blocks off and grinding the hole a bit
bigger so the column moves freely. I guess there is still a side load
from the tie rods connected to the rudder pedals. I also have a tight
upper bearing but I don't think that has an impact on rotation. I don't
know how to remove the upper bearing without removing the bungee. I had
no problem installing and removing the bungee before the engine was
installed, but now it looks like a real bear.
I was just out doing some circuits and bumps. I found if I land with
full flaps the nose wheel behaves when it touches down, but if I do a
no-flaps landing it tends to shimmy when it touches down. I wish I know
enough about mechanical design to be able to figure out how to stop the
shimmy at higher speeds.
Paul
On 9/21/2011 10:27 AM, DaveG601XL wrote:
| Quote: | --> Zenith601-List message posted by: "DaveG601XL"<david.m.gallagher(at)ge.com> (david.m.gallagher(at)ge.com)
Paul,
On the rudder, do you suspect that the nose gear strut is binding things up? When I first assembled my nose gear, the lower bearing was acting more like a shaft clamp. I put a thin aluminum shim between the two bearing halves and got the movement I desired. No problems with 3 years and 200 hours of flying. Yeah, you still have to push a Zenith rudder harder than you would in a Champ to overcome the initial "centering tendency," but I have no problems with it going back to center.
Hope this helps,
--------
David Gallagher
601 XL: flying
Next project: Pietenpol
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=352872#352872
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NYTerminat(at)aol.com
Guest
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| Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 3:11 pm Post subject: Zenith601-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 09/20/11 |
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Yes you could put weights on the rim but I was thinking about something inside the tire such as Dyna Beads. My brother uses them in his motorcycle tires and swears by them.
Bob
In a message dated 9/21/2011 6:09:42 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, psm(at)att.net writes:
| Quote: | HI Bob,
If I wanted to do that (and I am now considering it) I would take the whole wheel assembly down to my local tire shop and ask them to balance it. They have both the tools and weights to do the job and already know how to do it.
Paul
On 9/21/2011 2:55 PM, NYTerminat(at)aol.com (NYTerminat(at)aol.com) wrote: | Quote: | Paul
My 701 will get a shake at high speeds and will stop as it slows down. I know that it is the balancing and will take care of it at the next conditional inspection. Not sure what I will use for balance though.
Bob
In a message dated 9/21/2011 5:39:12 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, psm(at)att.net (psm(at)att.net) writes:
| Quote: | Hi Bob,
No, I didn't check the balance of the nose wheel.
What I did do was make the mistake of thinking if I kept a low tire pressure it would cushion the nose and give me softer touch-down bumps. Unfortunately, the Matco wheel doesn't hold the tire and tube very well without a reasonably high pressure in the tire. The result was the tire and tube rotated in the wheel and turned the metal valve stem into a pretzel. I replaced the tube assembly with one I had laying around the shop and didn't consider the balancing issue.
I suppose the nose gear vibrations could be a wheel balance issue, but I can really feel the side to side motion in the rudder pedals when the gear touches down at relatively high speed. My guess is the direct linkage between the pedals and the strut really need some sort of shock absorber or damper in the connection someplace.
I also guess the source of the vibration is a slight misalignment between the nose wheel and runway at touchdown. There doesn't seem to be any feature in this design that straightens out the wheel when it is a little out of alignment. The last plane I flew (a Tecnam Echo Super) had a trailing link design in the nose gear that naturally wants to go straight.
Paul
On 9/21/2011 2:12 PM, NYTerminat(at)aol.com (NYTerminat(at)aol.com) wrote: | Quote: | Paul, did you check the balance of the front tire and rim?
Bob Spudis
In a message dated 9/21/2011 3:14:49 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, psm(at)att.net (psm(at)att.net) writes:
| Quote: | --> Zenith601-List message posted by: Paul Mulwitz <psm(at)att.net> (psm(at)att.net)
Hi David,
Yes, I like your description of a clamp.
I wound up taking the lower blocks off and grinding the hole a bit
bigger so the column moves freely. I guess there is still a side load
from the tie rods connected to the rudder pedals. I also have a tight
upper bearing but I don't think that has an impact on rotation. I don't
know how to remove the upper bearing without removing the bungee. I had
no problem installing and removing the bungee before the engine was
installed, but now it looks like a real bear.
I was just out doing some circuits and bumps. I found if I land with
full flaps the nose wheel behaves when it touches down, but if I do a
no-flaps landing it tends to shimmy when it touches down. I wish I know
enough about mechanical design to be able to figure out how to stop the
shimmy at higher speeds.
Paul
On 9/21/2011 10:27 AM, DaveG601XL wrote:
| Quote: | --> Zenith601-List message posted by: "DaveG601XL"<david.m.gallagher(at)ge.com> (david.m.gallagher(at)ge.com)
Paul,
On the rudder, do you suspect that the nose gear strut is binding things up? When I first assembled my nose gear, the lower bearing was acting more like a shaft clamp. I put a thin aluminum shim between the two bearing halves and got the movement I desired. No problems with 3 years and 200 hours of flying. Yeah, you still have to push a Zenith rudder harder than you would in a Champ to overcome the initial "centering tendency," but I have no problems with it going back to center.
Hope this helps,
--------
David Gallagher
601 XL: flying
Next project: Pietenpol
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=352872#352872
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psm(at)att.net
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| Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 3:12 pm Post subject: Zenith601-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 09/20/11 |
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Hi Brad,
I think I got it.
Do you hold the axle horizontally to spin the wheel?
Paul
On 9/21/2011 3:39 PM, Brad Rawls wrote: [quote] <![endif]--> <![endif]-->
Paul –
I had a 180 MPH dragster that used the small aircraft wheels and tires we are dealing with, and it’s very easy to balance them at home. Just level the spindle, remove the grease and seals from the bearing, lube the bearings with a light oil, assemble the wheel and bearings on the spindle but only put the spindle nut on where it is just touching the bearings. Give it a light spin and wait for it to stop. The heavy part of the tire will be at 6 O’clock, mark the tire at the position. Do it a couple of times to verify the heavy spot always ends up at 6:00. After that, all you need to do is get some of the stick-on tire weight and apply them opposite the heavy mark until the tire balances. Make sure you clean the wheel real well with solvent before putting the stick-on weights on. On the drag cars we used to put a layer of racer tape over the weight as a precaution, but the stick-on weight glue is really good.
Thanks - Brad
Brad Rawls
Brad(at)ocbis.com (Brad(at)ocbis.com)
From: owner-zenith601-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-zenith601-list-server(at)matronics.com) [mailto:owner-zenith601-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-zenith601-list-server(at)matronics.com)] On Behalf Of Paul Mulwitz
Sent: Wednesday, September 21, 2011 3:06 PM
To: zenith601-list(at)matronics.com (zenith601-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: Re: Re: Zenith601-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 09/20/11
HI Bob,
If I wanted to do that (and I am now considering it) I would take the whole wheel assembly down to my local tire shop and ask them to balance it. They have both the tools and weights to do the job and already know how to do it.
Paul
On 9/21/2011 2:55 PM, NYTerminat(at)aol.com (NYTerminat(at)aol.com) wrote:
Paul
My 701 will get a shake at high speeds and will stop as it slows down. I know that it is the balancing and will take care of it at the next conditional inspection. Not sure what I will use for balance though.
Bob
In a message dated 9/21/2011 5:39:12 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, psm(at)att.net (psm(at)att.net) writes:
| Quote: |
Hi Bob,
No, I didn't check the balance of the nose wheel.
What I did do was make the mistake of thinking if I kept a low tire pressure it would cushion the nose and give me softer touch-down bumps. Unfortunately, the Matco wheel doesn't hold the tire and tube very well without a reasonably high pressure in the tire. The result was the tire and tube rotated in the wheel and turned the metal valve stem into a pretzel. I replaced the tube assembly with one I had laying around the shop and didn't consider the balancing issue.
I suppose the nose gear vibrations could be a wheel balance issue, but I can really feel the side to side motion in the rudder pedals when the gear touches down at relatively high speed. My guess is the direct linkage between the pedals and the strut really need some sort of shock absorber or damper in the connection someplace.
I also guess the source of the vibration is a slight misalignment between the nose wheel and runway at touchdown. There doesn't seem to be any feature in this design that straightens out the wheel when it is a little out of alignment. The last plane I flew (a Tecnam Echo Super) had a trailing link design in the nose gear that naturally wants to go straight.
Paul
On 9/21/2011 2:12 PM, NYTerminat(at)aol.com (NYTerminat(at)aol.com) wrote:
Paul, did you check the balance of the front tire and rim?
Bob Spudis
In a message dated 9/21/2011 3:14:49 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, psm(at)att.net (psm(at)att.net) writes:
| Quote: |
--> Zenith601-List message posted by: Paul Mulwitz <psm(at)att.net> (psm(at)att.net)
Hi David,
Yes, I like your description of a clamp.
I wound up taking the lower blocks off and grinding the hole a bit
bigger so the column moves freely. I guess there is still a side load
from the tie rods connected to the rudder pedals. I also have a tight
upper bearing but I don't think that has an impact on rotation. I don't
know how to remove the upper bearing without removing the bungee. I had
no problem installing and removing the bungee before the engine was
installed, but now it looks like a real bear.
I was just out doing some circuits and bumps. I found if I land with
full flaps the nose wheel behaves when it touches down, but if I do a
no-flaps landing it tends to shimmy when it touches down. I wish I know
enough about mechanical design to be able to figure out how to stop the
shimmy at higher speeds.
Paul
On 9/21/2011 10:27 AM, DaveG601XL wrote:
> --> Zenith601-List message posted by: "DaveG601XL"<david.m.gallagher(at)ge.com> (david.m.gallagher(at)ge.com)
>
> Paul,
>
> On the rudder, do you suspect that the nose gear strut is binding things up? When I first assembled my nose gear, the lower bearing was acting more like a shaft clamp. I put a thin aluminum shim between the two bearing halves and got the movement I desired. No problems with 3 years and 200 hours of flying. Yeah, you still have to push a Zenith rudder harder than you would in a Champ to overcome the initial "centering tendency," but I have no problems with it going back to center.
>
> Hope this helps,
>
> --------
> David Gallagher
> 601 XL: flying
> Next project: Pietenpol
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=352872#352872
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Brad(at)ocbis.com
Guest
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| Posted: Thu Sep 22, 2011 8:20 am Post subject: Zenith601-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 09/20/11 |
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Yes, you just need to have it ‘eyeball’ level.
Thanks - Brad
Brad Rawls
Orange County Brokerage
714-550-0159 voice
714-550-0869 fax
Brad(at)ocbis.com
From: owner-zenith601-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-zenith601-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Mulwitz
Sent: Wednesday, September 21, 2011 4:10 PM
To: zenith601-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Re: Zenith601-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 09/20/11
Hi Brad,
I think I got it.
Do you hold the axle horizontally to spin the wheel?
Paul
On 9/21/2011 3:39 PM, Brad Rawls wrote:
Paul –
I had a 180 MPH dragster that used the small aircraft wheels and tires we are dealing with, and it’s very easy to balance them at home. Just level the spindle, remove the grease and seals from the bearing, lube the bearings with a light oil, assemble the wheel and bearings on the spindle but only put the spindle nut on where it is just touching the bearings. Give it a light spin and wait for it to stop. The heavy part of the tire will be at 6 O’clock, mark the tire at the position. Do it a couple of times to verify the heavy spot always ends up at 6:00. After that, all you need to do is get some of the stick-on tire weight and apply them opposite the heavy mark until the tire balances. Make sure you clean the wheel real well with solvent before putting the stick-on weights on. On the drag cars we used to put a layer of racer tape over the weight as a precaution, but the stick-on weight glue is really good.
Thanks - Brad
Brad Rawls
Brad(at)ocbis.com (Brad(at)ocbis.com)
From: owner-zenith601-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-zenith601-list-server(at)matronics.com) [mailto:owner-zenith601-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-zenith601-list-server(at)matronics.com)] On Behalf Of Paul Mulwitz
Sent: Wednesday, September 21, 2011 3:06 PM
To: zenith601-list(at)matronics.com (zenith601-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: Re: Re: Zenith601-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 09/20/11
HI Bob,
If I wanted to do that (and I am now considering it) I would take the whole wheel assembly down to my local tire shop and ask them to balance it. They have both the tools and weights to do the job and already know how to do it.
Paul
On 9/21/2011 2:55 PM, NYTerminat(at)aol.com (NYTerminat(at)aol.com) wrote:
Paul
My 701 will get a shake at high speeds and will stop as it slows down. I know that it is the balancing and will take care of it at the next conditional inspection. Not sure what I will use for balance though.
Bob
In a message dated 9/21/2011 5:39:12 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, psm(at)att.net (psm(at)att.net) writes:
| Quote: |
Hi Bob,
No, I didn't check the balance of the nose wheel.
What I did do was make the mistake of thinking if I kept a low tire pressure it would cushion the nose and give me softer touch-down bumps. Unfortunately, the Matco wheel doesn't hold the tire and tube very well without a reasonably high pressure in the tire. The result was the tire and tube rotated in the wheel and turned the metal valve stem into a pretzel. I replaced the tube assembly with one I had laying around the shop and didn't consider the balancing issue.
I suppose the nose gear vibrations could be a wheel balance issue, but I can really feel the side to side motion in the rudder pedals when the gear touches down at relatively high speed. My guess is the direct linkage between the pedals and the strut really need some sort of shock absorber or damper in the connection someplace.
I also guess the source of the vibration is a slight misalignment between the nose wheel and runway at touchdown. There doesn't seem to be any feature in this design that straightens out the wheel when it is a little out of alignment. The last plane I flew (a Tecnam Echo Super) had a trailing link design in the nose gear that naturally wants to go straight.
Paul
On 9/21/2011 2:12 PM, NYTerminat(at)aol.com (NYTerminat(at)aol.com) wrote:
Paul, did you check the balance of the front tire and rim?
Bob Spudis
In a message dated 9/21/2011 3:14:49 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, psm(at)att.net (psm(at)att.net) writes:
| Quote: |
--> Zenith601-List message posted by: Paul Mulwitz <psm(at)att.net> (psm(at)att.net)
Hi David,
Yes, I like your description of a clamp.
I wound up taking the lower blocks off and grinding the hole a bit
bigger so the column moves freely. I guess there is still a side load
from the tie rods connected to the rudder pedals. I also have a tight
upper bearing but I don't think that has an impact on rotation. I don't
know how to remove the upper bearing without removing the bungee. I had
no problem installing and removing the bungee before the engine was
installed, but now it looks like a real bear.
I was just out doing some circuits and bumps. I found if I land with
full flaps the nose wheel behaves when it touches down, but if I do a
no-flaps landing it tends to shimmy when it touches down. I wish I know
enough about mechanical design to be able to figure out how to stop the
shimmy at higher speeds.
Paul
On 9/21/2011 10:27 AM, DaveG601XL wrote:
| Quote: | --> Zenith601-List message posted by: "DaveG601XL"<david.m.gallagher(at)ge.com> (david.m.gallagher(at)ge.com)
Paul,
On the rudder, do you suspect that the nose gear strut is binding things up? When I first assembled my nose gear, the lower bearing was acting more like a shaft clamp. I put a thin aluminum shim between the two bearing halves and got the movement I desired. No problems with 3 years and 200 hours of flying. Yeah, you still have to push a Zenith rudder harder than you would in a Champ to overcome the initial "centering tendency," but I have no problems with it going back to center.
Hope this helps,
--------
David Gallagher
601 XL: flying
Next project: Pietenpol
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=352872#352872
|
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