AeroElectric-Archive.digest.vol-ox
February 16, 2019 - March 22, 2019
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Battery disconnect with dual battery and trickle |
charger
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
On 2/9/2019 6:03 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
>> I was one of those people who ruined a number of O-680s with a
>> Battery Tender branded maintainer. It was established that it was an
>> earlier version than that being mentioned here, probably manufactured
>> circa '85.
>
> Hmmmm . . . didn't know they went back
> that far. Doubt that they were software
> driven. I didn't start using them until
> about 1998 . . . in fact, the top-off/
> maintainer curves I've published were
> probably produced by one of my earliest
> examples.
>
I may be mistaken on the date. When I started my build back in 2006, I
dusted off all my old charging equipment from my glider flying days
which ended in '95. When I started trying to diagnose my battery
maintaining problems, with this site's help, in 2009 or so, it became
clear that my old charging equipment was part of the problem so I threw
it all out. I know some of it dated back to '85 but the Battery Tender
branded unit might have been acquired later. So please disregard.
>> I try to cross connect the 2 buses before landing at night but
>> sometimes forget. When I forget, I try to top off the battery.
>> Don't really know if it's a problem or not.
>
> Do you know what the drain is on
> the battery . . . and for how long?
No I don't.
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | MAC 3 LED Trim Indicator... |
Hello,
A fellow homebuilder friend of mine has a old-style three-LED (Red|Green|Red) MAC
Trim Position Indicator. The Green LED was burned out, and the wires were
cut off too short.
I told him I would try to replace the LED and lead wires. I got it apart without
completely destroying it. But the internal wiring and polarity of the LEDs
isn't that clear to me, nor is the actuation of it through a servo electronically.
I'm not sure how to activate three LEDs with only three wires? (Or did there
used to be four wires?)
Does anyone have a PDF schematic of the 3-LED MAC Trim Indicator that you could
email to me?
Or better yet, does anyone have a spare or unused one of these they would like
to sell me?
Thank you,
Matt Dralle
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | 581 Jeannie Way | Livermore | CA | 94550
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: MAC 3 LED Trim Indicator... |
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com> |
On 2/16/2019 6:27 PM, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
> Hello,
>
> A fellow homebuilder friend of mine has a old-style three-LED
> (Red|Green|Red) MAC Trim Position Indicator. The Green LED was burned
> out, and the wires were cut off too short.
>
> I told him I would try to replace the LED and lead wires. I got it
> apart without completely destroying it. But the internal wiring and
> polarity of the LEDs isn't that clear to me, nor is the actuation of
> it through a servo electronically. I'm not sure how to activate three
> LEDs with only three wires? (Or did there used to be four wires?)
>
> Does anyone have a PDF schematic of the 3-LED MAC Trim Indicator that
> you could email to me?
>
> Or better yet, does anyone have a spare or unused one of these they
> would like to sell me?
>
> Thank you,
>
> Matt Dralle
Is it accessible enough to clip-lead the LED in for testing? If so, just
pick a direction. If it works, you're done. If it doesn't, reverse the
leads. Assuming that the current limiting is done external to the LED
itself, it won't matter if you insert it backward; it just won't light up.
Charlie
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: PTT, snap action or not? |
At 05:41 AM 2/14/2019, you wrote:
>Thank you Bob and Charlie. The AeroElectric list never fails to deliver.
>
>So, it sounds like a PTT switch that clicks when
>pushed (snap action) or not really doesn't
>matter. I didn't think it did, but I wondered if
>one was preferred over another.=C2
>
>My current button on the (throw over) yoke
>(Debonair) does not, but the copilot side on the
>panel does. I think I prefer the click.
>
>Regards,
>Jim
really small tactile feedback, panel
mount push buttons are not common
catalog items. That one I showed you
mounts in a 1/2" hole and probably
wouldn't fit in a classic horn grip.
This button has been around since I
can remember . . . these were optional
on the control horns on Cessnas and
tied them into the PTT system via a
drooping coil cord under the yolk.
https://tinyurl.com/y2neb9nf
Very small and easy to mount.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Tipton <john(at)tiptonuk.eu> |
| Subject: | Re: PTT, snap action or not? |
Are the ones with the =98snap=99 action, the ones that would som
etimes stick closed, I wonder ?
John
Sent from my iPad
----x--O--x----
> On 17 Feb 2019, at 1:09 am, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob@aeroelec
tric.com> wrote:
>
> At 05:41 AM 2/14/2019, you wrote:
>> Thank you Bob and Charlie. The AeroElectric list never fails to deliver.
>>
>> So, it sounds like a PTT switch that clicks when pushed (snap action) or n
ot really doesn't matter. I didn't think it did, but I wondered if one was p
referred over another.=C3=82
>>
>> My current button on the (throw over) yoke (Debonair) does not, but the c
opilot side on the panel does. I think I prefer the click.
>>
>> Regards,
>> Jim
>
> really small tactile feedback, panel
> mount push buttons are not common
> catalog items. That one I showed you
> mounts in a 1/2" hole and probably
> wouldn't fit in a classic horn grip.
>
> This button has been around since I
> can remember . . . these were optional
> on the control horns on Cessnas and
> tied them into the PTT system via a
> drooping coil cord under the yolk.
>
> https://tinyurl.com/y2neb9nf
>
> Very small and easy to mount.
>
> Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: The Benefits of Maplestory 2 Critical Rate |
ceengland7(at)gmail.com wrote:
> I submit that Matt does such an incredible job filtering spam, that when a single
email slips through, we feel violated.
Agreed.
It does seem like the volume has increased lately.
I wonder if these messages are sent through the email gateway or are posted directly
using the forum interface?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487652#487652
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: PTT, snap action or not? |
At 02:15 AM 2/17/2019, you wrote:
>Are the ones with the =98snap=99 action, the
>ones that would sometimes stick closed, I wonder ?
>
>John
Good question . . . and it depends on
the mechanism along with the antagonizing
circumstance.
Larger switches can have some spring
loaded monkey-motion as part of the
operating mechanism. Parts that are
certainly at-risk for wear or failure.
But in the realm of tiny switches, the
most common mechanism is a domed, 'click'
disk not unlike this:
http://www.freepatentsonline.com/6596954.pdf
Widely used in all manner of membrane
protected keypads and eteched circuit
board mounted push buttons.
https://tinyurl.com/yxqv237s
This class of switch is unlikely
to stick mechanically . . . more
likely to fail-to-close electrically
due to wear-out.
Some push buttons are adaptations
of their panel-mounted, toggle switch
cousins. Here's a rather small example
that mounts in a 1/4 inch hole.
https://tinyurl.com/y3lqn5ul
This style might fail mechanically
in a closed condition. It could also
fall victim to contamination of the
clearance between button and mounting
barrel.
Here's a pretty 'busy' push-button design
that probably has a nice tactile feedback . . .
but it's big . . . mounts in a 1/2"
hole.
https://tinyurl.com/y3k6p4gn
Emacs!
This design might have a mechanical failure mode that
manifests in a stuck closed condition,
I think any switch based on snap-disk
mechanism would be relatively free of stick-shut
failure modes. Same for mechanisms that simply
butt the contacts together upon actuation.
All others are kind of a toss-up.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Art Zemon <art(at)zemon.name> |
| Subject: | Re: PTT, snap action or not? |
Bob,
I have followed a couple of your links to the corresponding switches on
Digikey's website. Once there, I don't see any indication that the switches
have a snap-action. Were I shopping for such a switch, how would I find
them? Or is the only way to ask someone like you, who has the knowledge in
his head?
-- Art Z.
--
https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
*"Be kind, for everyone you meet is fighting a hard battle."*
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chaskuss(at)yahoo.com |
| Subject: | Re: MAC 3 LED Trim Indicator... |
Matt, why not supply us with a close up photo or two? Often, the LED polar
ity can be identified by a difference in the legs of the LED. If the leads
are to short to extend, could you de-solder them [one at a time] from the b
oard and solder in new leads?
Charlie
On Sunday, February 17, 2019, 1:15:39 AM UTC, Charlie England wrote:
On 2/16/2019 6:27 PM, Matt Dralle wrote:
Hello,
A fellow homebuilder friend of mine has a old-style three-LED (Red|Green|R
ed) MAC Trim Position Indicator.=C2- The Green LED was burned out, and th
e wires were cut off too short.
I told him I would try to replace the LED and lead wires.=C2- I got it a
part without completely destroying it.=C2- But the internal wiring and po
larity of the LEDs isn't that clear to me, nor is the actuation of it throu
gh a servo electronically. I'm not sure how to activate three LEDs with onl
y three wires? (Or did there used to be four wires?)
Does anyone have a PDF schematic of the 3-LED MAC Trim Indicator that you
could email to me?
Or better yet, does anyone have a spare or unused one of these they would
like to sell me?
Thank you,
Matt Dralle
Is it accessible enough to clip-lead the LED in for testing? If so, just p
ick a direction. If it works, you're done. If it doesn't, reverse the leads
. Assuming that the current limiting is done external to the LED itself, it
won't matter if you insert it backward; it just won't light up.
Charlie
| | Virus-free. www.avast.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Alternator Filters |
A few days ago there was a thread concerning
add-on filter devices to various places on
the engine driven power sources. An AvWeb
article was cited as a reference on the
topic.
Unfortunately, the article cited was not
well grounded in physics or practice. I
spent a little time on the keyboard ironing
out some of the 'lumpier' ideas:
https://tinyurl.com/yxqx2gab
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: PTT, snap action or not? |
At 07:39 AM 2/17/2019, you wrote:
>Bob,
>
>I have followed a couple of your links to the corresponding switches
>on Digikey's website. Once there, I don't see any indication that
>the switches have a snap-action. Were I shopping for such a switch,
>how would I find them? Or is the only way to ask someone like you,
>who has the knowledge in his head?
yeeeaahh . . . probably. You kinda
"know" based on the switch's envelope
and pedigree. I.e. some of those push
buttons evolved from the toggle switch
world.
You can comb though the data sheets
offered on EVERY DigiKey offering.
They will often describe operating
forces, pre-travel and over-travel
numbers that allude to if not define
a snap-action device.
But that's what the List is for . . .
got a likely candidate? Post it to
the list and let's talk about it.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: PTT, snap action or not? |
At 07:39 AM 2/17/2019, you wrote:
>Bob,
>
>I have followed a couple of your links to the corresponding switches
>on Digikey's website. Once there, I don't see any indication that
>the switches have a snap-action. Were I shopping for such a switch,
>how would I find them? Or is the only way to ask someone like you,
>who has the knowledge in his head?
Did a little poking around in the DigiKey
catalog. I think this push button is
the smallest device you can get with any
probability of having some tactile feedback.
Seems you can get colored caps to go on
the actuator.
https://tinyurl.com/y4wbsgoe
https://tinyurl.com/y4mguheq
There's a version with a smaller
mounting barrel but the body size
behind the panel is unchanged.
I'd stay with the 1/4-40 threaded
part.
In any case, the price is certainly
right.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | AR2257-005 Air Jordan 6 NRG Gonna Release this Month |
| From: | "blair2019" <stevenrowe98(at)gmail.com> |
With the advent of the All-Star Game, Nike has launched a variety of all-star color matching shoes, and will be released on Wednesday with the Air Jordan 6 "NRG" color. Air Jordan 6 NRG (https://www.2019sneakersrelease.com/product-category/air-jordan-sneakers/air-jordan-6/) uses pure black against the Charlotte Hornets logo Purple, highlighting this theme. It is complemented by an ice-blue outsole that highlights the simple color scheme. The upper material is also quite elegant. It is made of cow hair that is easy to care for and has a unique luster. The leather on both sides is decorated with snake skin texture, and the luxury temperament is undoubtedly revealed. The most exciting is the Nike Air lettering, which restores the most OG charm. The upper edge of the upper is made of high-quality leather, which shows high specifications.
Every year, 2019 Mens Jordans (https://www.2019mensjordans.com) will launch a variety of Valentine's Day colors for Valentine's Day, and recently there is a new color air Force 1 gorgeous debut. Nike Air Force 1 Rose Pink is decorated with rose pink and embellished with black leather Swoosh Logo. The heel is accompanied by a unique floral embroidery, which combines the Nike Logo with the heart of the heart. The overall feeling is beautiful and passionate.
The black and red Air Jordan 6 has always been one of the shoes that the sneakers must enter. Earlier, the Jordans 2019 Shoes (https://www.jordans2019shoes.com) had released the notice, but it suddenly disappeared, but it appeared in the new product preview. It seems that the sale on Saturday is a nail on the board. . Air Jordan 6 OG Infrared classic black and red dress, not only full of OG charm, but also represents the Bulls playoff color theme. Heel Nike Air embroidery is undoubtedly the most exciting presence for the majority of OG players, and finally supplemented by 3M reflective material blessing, eye-catching in low light environment!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487668#487668
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Laminar flow illustrated |
https://youtu.be/y7Hyc3MRKno
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ashleysc(at)broadstripe.net |
| Subject: | Re: AR2257-005 Air Jordan 6 NRG Gonna Release this |
Month
Hi Aero-Electric List;
My reaction was not "beautiful and passionate," upon receiving this e-mail!
Cheers! Stu.
----- Original Message -----
From: "blair2019" <stevenrowe98(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2019 4:33:12 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: AR2257-005 Air Jordan 6 NRG Gonna Release this Month
With the advent of the All-Star Game, Nike has launched a variety of all-star color matching shoes, and will be released on Wednesday with the Air Jordan 6 "NRG" color. Air Jordan 6 NRG (https://www.2019sneakersrelease.com/product-category/air-jordan-sneakers/air-jordan-6/) uses pure black against the Charlotte Hornets logo Purple, highlighting this theme. It is complemented by an ice-blue outsole that highlights the simple color scheme. The upper material is also quite elegant. It is made of cow hair that is easy to care for and has a unique luster. The leather on both sides is decorated with snake skin texture, and the luxury temperament is undoubtedly revealed. The most exciting is the Nike Air lettering, which restores the most OG charm. The upper edge of the upper is made of high-quality leather, which shows high specifications.
Every year, 2019 Mens Jordans (https://www.2019mensjordans.com) will launch a variety of Valentine's Day colors for Valentine's Day, and recently there is a new color air Force 1 gorgeous debut. Nike Air Force 1 Rose Pink is decorated with rose pink and embellished with black leather Swoosh Logo. The heel is accompanied by a unique floral embroidery, which combines the Nike Logo with the heart of the heart. The overall feeling is beautiful and passionate.
The black and red Air Jordan 6 has always been one of the shoes that the sneakers must enter. Earlier, the Jordans 2019 Shoes (https://www.jordans2019shoes.com) had released the notice, but it suddenly disappeared, but it appeared in the new product preview. It seems that the sale on Saturday is a nail on the board. . Air Jordan 6 OG Infrared classic black and red dress, not only full of OG charm, but also represents the Bulls playoff color theme. Heel Nike Air embroidery is undoubtedly the most exciting presence for the majority of OG players, and finally supplemented by 3M reflective material blessing, eye-catching in low light environment!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487668#487668
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | PTT, snap action redux |
While on the topic of snap action push buttons
I note a number of offerings on eBay that feature
Otto Controls devices. We used a lot of Otto products
on Lears. Here's one example of a push button
https://tinyurl.com/y3xka9xn
These are the Maserati class of push buttons.
If you have the room, you won't find a more
robust switch . . . and the price is right
on eBay.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Todd Bartrim <bartrim(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Laminar flow illustrated |
Hey Bob;
Thanks for sharing that. With the spam that's beginning to get through to
the list, I almost deleted without looking at it, but it's worth the
look..... even if it doesn't apply to electrons.
I love this guy's enthusiasm. I wish my science teacher was like that.
Todd Bartrim
On Mon, Feb 18, 2019 at 8:13 AM Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
> nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
>
>
> https://youtu.be/y7Hyc3MRKno
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Laminar flow illustrated |
At 10:05 AM 2/20/2019, you wrote:
>Hey Bob;
>=C2 Thanks for sharing that. With the spam that's
>beginning to get through to the list, I almost
>deleted without looking at it, but it's worth
>the look..... even if it doesn't apply to electrons.
>I love this guy's enthusiasm. I wish my science teacher was like that.
Agreed. Check out the series on YouTube.
It's 'Smarter Every Day' and there are
over 250 videos. I'm going to brow-beat,
bribe, cajole my live-in grandson into
using his WiFi-ON time to watch these.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David and Elaine Lamphere <dalamphere(at)comcast.net> |
Looking for anyones experience with any of the MGL avionics units.
The remote mounted V16 com radio with the Razor controller looks interesting.
Any comments or advice concerning these products? Would you put them in a new plane?
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Art Zemon <art(at)zemon.name> |
| Subject: | Re: MGL Avionics |
Dave,
I just installed dual MGL iEFIS Challenger screens in my Bede BD-4C. I am
very much in the learning phase with just one flight and a few taxi tests.
So far, I am happy.
-- Art Z.
On Thu, Feb 21, 2019 at 9:05 PM David and Elaine Lamphere <
dalamphere(at)comcast.net> wrote:
> dalamphere(at)comcast.net>
>
> Looking for anyone=99s experience with any of the MGL avionics unit
s.
> The remote mounted V16 com radio with the Razor controller looks
> interesting.
> Any comments or advice concerning these products? Would you put them in a
> new plane?
>
> Dave
>
--
https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
*"Be kind, for everyone you meet is fighting a hard battle."*
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Atten Soldering Station? |
| From: | "jsajpf" <john.friday_adis(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Anyone on the group have experience with this brand, or this model soldering station
in particular:
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/atten-50w-at-937-adjustable-soldering-station-with-soldering-iron-us-plug.html
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487751#487751
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | skywagon185guy <skywagon185(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Atten Soldering Station? |
I have a couple of those low cost soldering units and they work fine for
the smaller circuitry type of work..
On Fri, Feb 22, 2019 at 4:31 PM jsajpf
wrote:
> john.friday_adis(at)sbcglobal.net>
>
> Anyone on the group have experience with this brand, or this model
> soldering station in particular:
>
> https://hobbyking.com/en_us/atten-50w-at-937-adjustable-soldering-station-with-soldering-iron-us-plug.html
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487751#487751
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sebastien <cluros(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Speaking of solder . . . |
My Hakko 888 arrived today, very pleased with it but it only came with a
large tip so I'm wandering around the internet looking for Hakko tips and
the prices are quite high and the shipping fees are extortionate. Then I
stumble onto Hakko USA's website which have the tips at a very good price
and reasonable shipping cost. This gets me thinking a bit more so I check
the price of the 888 and sure enough it's $10 more than the cheapest ebay
seller and free shipping so you're ahead ordering directly from the
website, and can order the tips you want at the same time.
https://www.hakkousa.com/
On Thu, Sep 22, 2016 at 8:15 AM Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
> nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
>
> We've had many discussions on the List over the
> years concerning soldering materials, tools and
> techniques. I own perhaps a dozen tools intended
> to effectively heat solder and the target work
> piece(s). I use solders of several types for
> both electronic and mechanical joining.
>
> For about the last 15 years, Metcal solder
> stations have been my favorite tools for
> joining everything from specks of electronic
> fly-dung on etched circuit boards to installing
> terminals on 4AWG wire. Metcal stuff has been
> readily available on eBay and I've pretty well
> outfitted the tool boxes of myself and relatives
> with these tools.
>
> I had recently had occasion to enhance a product
> development partner's tool compliment and decided
> to try a prominently promoted product line I saw
> on eBay.
>
> http://tinyurl.com/zddlb2t
>
> I bought one for the project . . . and a few
> months later, added another to my drive-stand
> bench. These have proven VERY capable. Good
> temperature control, good energy concentration
> at the tip, reasonably priced tips in range
> of sizes and shapes. I've found them to be
> a good value and more readily available than
> the older Metcal system products at similar
> prices.
>
> I think Hakko may be the Metcal of the Pacific
> Rim. They have a broad range of products
> and are widely represented. I can recommend
> them as an alternative to Metcal.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James kale" <jimkale(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Speaking of solder . . . |
I was interested in the soldering topic. I recently went to
Lowe=99s and Tractor Supply to get some rosin core electrical
solder for use on electrical wires on a homebuilt airplane. All I
could find was LEAD FREE solder. Has 60/40 or 63/37 Tin/Lead solder
now been banned in the USA or what. I have no trouble finding
traditional solder on eBay. I fully understand the transition to lead
free solder for plumbing applications, but I am lost trying to figure it
out for electronic applications?? Any comments??
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
On Behalf Of Sebastien
Sent: Friday, February 22, 2019 7:10 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Speaking of solder . . .
My Hakko 888 arrived today, very pleased with it but it only came with a
large tip so I'm wandering around the internet looking for Hakko tips
and the prices are quite high and the shipping fees are extortionate.
Then I stumble onto Hakko USA's website which have the tips at a very
good price and reasonable shipping cost. This gets me thinking a bit
more so I check the price of the 888 and sure enough it's $10 more than
the cheapest ebay seller and free shipping so you're ahead ordering
directly from the website, and can order the tips you want at the same
time.
https://www.hakkousa.com/
On Thu, Sep 22, 2016 at 8:15 AM Robert L. Nuckolls, III
>
wrote:
>
We've had many discussions on the List over the
years concerning soldering materials, tools and
techniques. I own perhaps a dozen tools intended
to effectively heat solder and the target work
piece(s). I use solders of several types for
both electronic and mechanical joining.
For about the last 15 years, Metcal solder
stations have been my favorite tools for
joining everything from specks of electronic
fly-dung on etched circuit boards to installing
terminals on 4AWG wire. Metcal stuff has been
readily available on eBay and I've pretty well
outfitted the tool boxes of myself and relatives
with these tools.
I had recently had occasion to enhance a product
development partner's tool compliment and decided
to try a prominently promoted product line I saw
on eBay.
http://tinyurl.com/zddlb2t
I bought one for the project . . . and a few
months later, added another to my drive-stand
bench. These have proven VERY capable. Good
temperature control, good energy concentration
at the tip, reasonably priced tips in range
of sizes and shapes. I've found them to be
a good value and more readily available than
the older Metcal system products at similar
prices.
I think Hakko may be the Metcal of the Pacific
Rim. They have a broad range of products
and are widely represented. I can recommend
them as an alternative to Metcal.
Bob . . .
-
Electric-List" rel="noreferrer"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
FORUMS -
eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
WIKI -
errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
b Site -
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
rel="noreferrer"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James kale" <jimkale(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Atten Soldering Station? |
I bought a HAKKO temp controlled station a couple of years ago. I
immediately had trouble with it because the changeable tips
don=99t make good contact. I made a minor modification to my unit
and it is somewhat better, but still I get the disconnect warning sound
occasionally but tap it on the bench to get it reconnected. Anyone else
having problems with Hakko??
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
On Behalf Of
skywagon185guy
Sent: Friday, February 22, 2019 7:03 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Atten Soldering Station?
I have a couple of those low cost soldering units and they work fine for
the smaller circuitry type of work..
On Fri, Feb 22, 2019 at 4:31 PM jsajpf > wrote:
>
Anyone on the group have experience with this brand, or this model
soldering station in particular:
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/atten-50w-at-937-adjustable-soldering-station
-with-soldering-iron-us-plug.html
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487751#487751
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Speaking of solder . . . |
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com> |
Order it. Why mess with lead free, if you don't nave to?
Charlie
On 2/22/2019 9:14 PM, James kale wrote:
>
> *I was interested in the soldering topic. I recently went to Lowes
> and Tractor Supply to get some rosin core electrical solder for use on
> electrical wires on a homebuilt airplane. All I could find was LEAD
> FREE solder. Has 60/40 or 63/37 Tin/Lead solder now been banned in
> the USA or what. I have no trouble finding traditional solder on
> eBay. I fully understand the transition to lead free solder for
> plumbing applications, but I am lost trying to figure it out for
> electronic applications?? Any comments??*
>
> **
>
> *From:* owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
> *On Behalf Of *Sebastien
> *Sent:* Friday, February 22, 2019 7:10 PM
> *To:* aeroelectric-l.
> *Subject:* Re: AeroElectric-List: Speaking of solder . . .
>
> My Hakko 888 arrived today, very pleased with it but it only came with
> a large tip so I'm wandering around the internet looking for Hakko
> tips and the prices are quite high and the shipping fees are
> extortionate. Then I stumble onto Hakko USA's website which have the
> tips at a very good price and reasonable shipping cost. This gets me
> thinking a bit more so I check the price of the 888 and sure enough
> it's $10 more than the cheapest ebay seller and free shipping so
> you're ahead ordering directly from the website, and can order the
> tips you want at the same time.
>
> https://www.hakkousa.com/
>
> On Thu, Sep 22, 2016 at 8:15 AM Robert L. Nuckolls, III
> >
> wrote:
>
> >
>
> We've had many discussions on the List over the
> years concerning soldering materials, tools and
> techniques. I own perhaps a dozen tools intended
> to effectively heat solder and the target work
> piece(s). I use solders of several types for
> both electronic and mechanical joining.
>
> For about the last 15 years, Metcal solder
> stations have been my favorite tools for
> joining everything from specks of electronic
> fly-dung on etched circuit boards to installing
> terminals on 4AWG wire. Metcal stuff has been
> readily available on eBay and I've pretty well
> outfitted the tool boxes of myself and relatives
> with these tools.
>
> I had recently had occasion to enhance a product
> development partner's tool compliment and decided
> to try a prominently promoted product line I saw
> on eBay.
>
> http://tinyurl.com/zddlb2t
>
> I bought one for the project . . . and a few
> months later, added another to my drive-stand
> bench. These have proven VERY capable. Good
> temperature control, good energy concentration
> at the tip, reasonably priced tips in range
> of sizes and shapes. I've found them to be
> a good value and more readily available than
> the older Metcal system products at similar
> prices.
>
> I think Hakko may be the Metcal of the Pacific
> Rim. They have a broad range of products
> and are widely represented. I can recommend
> them as an alternative to Metcal.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
> ==========
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> ==========
>
>
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Speaking of solder . . . |
At 09:14 PM 2/22/2019, you wrote:
I was interested in the soldering topic. I
recently went to Lowe=99s and Tractor Supply to
get some rosin core electrical solder for use on
electrical wires on a homebuilt airplane. All I
could find was LEAD FREE solder. Has 60/40 or
63/37 Tin/Lead solder now been banned in the USA
or what. I have no trouble finding traditional
solder on eBay. I fully understand the
transition to lead free solder for plumbing
applications, but I am lost trying to figure it
out for electronic applications?? Any comments??
Ebay is where I buy it. Search on "63/37 Kester"
or "60/40 Kester" and you'll get good stuff. I'm not
saying all else is questionable, but Kester brand
is a known quantity. I have several samples
of Chinese 63/37 electronic solder that
perform well. That includes some products
offered in flux suspended balls (paste)
that work really well to surface mount
parts in reflow ovens.
63/37 isn't 'banned' outright, just limited
to critical applications like avionics and
other products subject to vibration. Lead-free solders
are prone to work-hardening and cracking
under vibration.
Lead free solders have a lot higher ratio of
tin which may, under certain conditions,
grow 'whiskers' that may short out closely
spaced conductors.
https://tinyurl.com/y5a7ns4k
. . . generally not a concern for anything
we do on our airplanes. Our strongest desires
look for rapid and efficient amalgamation
of solder to the work piece surfaces.
To date, I'm aware of no product
that performs better than 63/37 with 60/40
right on its heels. Purity of alloys and
friendly flux are key features of a product
both effective and a pleasure to use. You
cannot go wrong with Kester.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Atten Soldering Station? |
| From: | "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com> |
How do you keep a soldering iron tip clean and tinned?
I have a Metcal SP200 soldering station purchased from eBay. The iron tip
appears to be stainless steel or some other tin colored metal. I clean it with
a
kitchen stainless steel scouring pad and tin the iron with solder. But the very
tip
of the iron has a dark coating that will not melt solder. I am reluctant to use
sandpaper or other abrasive for fear of damaging the tip. How do you keep
your soldering iron tip clean and tinned?
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487761#487761
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lawrence Handberg <stinsonwagon(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Speaking of solder . . . |
Check here for solder
Search Results
|
|
|
| | |
|
|
|
| |
Search Results
|
|
|
d7(at)gmail.com> wrote:
Order it. Why mess with lead free, if you don't nave to?
Charlie
On 2/22/2019 9:14 PM, James kale wrote:
I was interested in the soldering topic.=C2- I recently went to Lowe
=99s and Tractor Supply to get some rosin core electrical solder for use
on electrical wires on a homebuilt airplane.=C2-=C2- All I could find
was LEAD FREE solder.=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2- Has 60/40 or 63/37 Tin/Lead s
older now been banned in the USA or what.=C2-=C2-=C2- I have no troub
le finding traditional solder on eBay.=C2-=C2- I fully understand the t
ransition to lead free solder for plumbing applications, but I am lost tryi
ng to figure it out for electronic applications??=C2-=C2-=C2- Any com
ments??
=C2-
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-aeroelectric-list
-server(at)matronics.com> On Behalf Of Sebastien
Sent: Friday, February 22, 2019 7:10 PM
To: aeroelectric-l.
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Speaking of solder . . .
=C2-
My Hakko 888 arrived today, very pleased with it but it only came with a la
rge tip so I'm wandering around the internet looking for Hakko tips and the
prices are quite high and the shipping fees are extortionate. Then I stumb
le onto Hakko USA's website which have the tips at a very good price and re
asonable shipping cost. This gets me thinking a bit more so I check the pri
ce of the 888 and sure enough it's $10 more than the cheapest ebay seller a
nd free shipping so you're ahead ordering directly from the website, and ca
n order the tips you want at the same time.
=C2-
https://www.hakkousa.com/
=C2-
On Thu, Sep 22, 2016 at 8:15 AM Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob@aeroe
lectric.com> wrote:
s.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
We've had many discussions on the List over the
years concerning soldering materials, tools and
techniques. I own perhaps a dozen tools intended
to effectively heat solder and the target work
piece(s).=C2- I use solders of several types for
both electronic and mechanical joining.
For about the last 15 years, Metcal solder
stations have been my favorite tools for
joining everything from specks of electronic
fly-dung on etched circuit boards to installing
terminals on 4AWG wire. Metcal stuff has been
readily available on eBay and I've pretty well
outfitted the tool boxes of myself and relatives
with these tools.
I had recently had occasion to enhance a product
development partner's tool compliment and decided
to try a prominently promoted product line I saw
on eBay.
http://tinyurl.com/zddlb2t
I bought one for the project . . . and a few
months later, added another to my drive-stand
bench. These have proven VERY capable. Good
temperature control, good energy concentration
at the tip, reasonably priced tips in range
of sizes and shapes. I've found them to be
a good value and more readily available than
the older Metcal system products at similar
prices.
I think Hakko may be the Metcal of the Pacific
Rim. They have a broad range of products
and are widely represented. I can recommend
them as an alternative to Metcal.
=C2- =C2-Bob . . .
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alec Myers <alec(at)alecmyers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Atten Soldering Station? |
Use some liquid flux on the hot tip, then wipe it on a damp sponge or cloth.
On Feb 23, 2019, at 10:02 AM, user9253 wrote:
How do you keep a soldering iron tip clean and tinned?
I have a Metcal SP200 soldering station purchased from eBay. The iron tip
appears to be stainless steel or some other tin colored metal. I clean it with
a
kitchen stainless steel scouring pad and tin the iron with solder. But the very
tip
of the iron has a dark coating that will not melt solder. I am reluctant to use
sandpaper or other abrasive for fear of damaging the tip. How do you keep
your soldering iron tip clean and tinned?
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487761#487761
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sebastien <cluros(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Atten Soldering Station? |
Hello Joe, I have attached the instructions for my Hakko. Also my
electronics guy says always coat the tip with solder before turning the
iron off in order to protect the tip from oxidation.
On Sat, Feb 23, 2019, 08:08 user9253 wrote:
>
> How do you keep a soldering iron tip clean and tinned?
> I have a Metcal SP200 soldering station purchased from eBay. The iron tip
> appears to be stainless steel or some other tin colored metal. I clean it
> with a
> kitchen stainless steel scouring pad and tin the iron with solder. But
> the very tip
> of the iron has a dark coating that will not melt solder. I am reluctant
> to use
> sandpaper or other abrasive for fear of damaging the tip. How do you keep
> your soldering iron tip clean and tinned?
>
> --------
> Joe Gores
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487761#487761
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Atten Soldering Station? |
| From: | Lyle Peterson <lyleap(at)centurylink.net> |
I have found that copper tips work best. I bought an iron some years
ago that had a bright plated tip. It would not tin. Rather than
attempt to remove the plating, or whatever it was, I returned the iron.
I have an iron that has tips that are threaded. When I need a new tip
or one that has a different shape I use a short length of copper wire.
I don't remember the gauge of the wire but something like 4ga or 6ga
comes to mind. I simply cut a few threads on one end of the piece of
wire and shape the other end for my needs.
Just my thoughts,
Lyle
On 2/23/2019 10:48 AM, Sebastien wrote:
> Hello Joe, I have attached the instructions for my Hakko. Also my
> electronics guy says always coat the tip with solder before turning
> the iron off in order to protect the tip from oxidation.
>
>
> On Sat, Feb 23, 2019, 08:08 user9253 > wrote:
>
> >
>
> How do you keep a soldering iron tip clean and tinned?
> I have a Metcal SP200 soldering station purchased from eBay. The
> iron tip
> appears to be stainless steel or some other tin colored metal. I
> clean it with a
> kitchen stainless steel scouring pad and tin the iron with
> solder. But the very tip
> of the iron has a dark coating that will not melt solder. I am
> reluctant to use
> sandpaper or other abrasive for fear of damaging the tip. How do
> you keep
> your soldering iron tip clean and tinned?
>
> --------
> Joe Gores
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487761#487761
>
>
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> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> rel="noreferrer noreferrer"
> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ==========
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jared Yates <email(at)jaredyates.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Atten Soldering Station? |
I dampen the sponge on the base that holds the iron, and wipe the damp
sponge with the hot tip. It's like deglazing a hot skillet, works great
every few minutes.
On Sat, Feb 23, 2019 at 11:09 AM user9253 wrote:
>
> How do you keep a soldering iron tip clean and tinned?
> I have a Metcal SP200 soldering station purchased from eBay. The iron tip
> appears to be stainless steel or some other tin colored metal. I clean it
> with a
> kitchen stainless steel scouring pad and tin the iron with solder. But
> the very tip
> of the iron has a dark coating that will not melt solder. I am reluctant
> to use
> sandpaper or other abrasive for fear of damaging the tip. How do you keep
> your soldering iron tip clean and tinned?
>
> --------
> Joe Gores
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487761#487761
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Atten Soldering Station? |
| From: | "jonlaury" <jonlaury(at)impulse.net> |
I've used a Hakko 888 for years and have been very pleased with the performance.
Heats quickly, compact size, good temp control. I would "improve" it by having
a more intuitive analog control. If I'm using it everyday, then the digital
control sequences get burned into my brain and it's fine. The problem is remembering
the sequences when I haven't used it for few months.
If this one bit the dust, I'd still buy another one.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487767#487767
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Atten Soldering Station? |
At 11:21 AM 2/23/2019, you wrote:
>I have found that copper tips work best.=C2 I
>bought an iron some years ago that had a bright
>plated tip.=C2 It would not tin.=C2 Rather than
>attempt to remove the plating, or whatever it was, I returned the iron.
Copper is not a 'bad' tip material, it just
doesn't have a good service life compared to
the iron-plated copper.
Molten solder is a SOLVENT for copper . . .
this affinity for copper to disolve into
solder is what makes the critical amalgamation
at the surface which manifests in a good
'flow'.
But every time you craft a soldered joint
using a pure copper tip, some of the tip
is washed off into your finished joint.
Hence the tip must be periodically
re-shaped or even replaced.
All professional soldering iron tips are
iron plated. Like copper, iron will also
amalgam with the tin-lead solvent but
to a lesser degree in that the melting
temperature of the lead-tin-iron mix
rises more sharply. Hence the rate of
'wash off' for iron is much less and
the life of the tip is extended greatly.
But wear a little hole in the iron and
the tip will begin to disappear into
subsequent joints.
My soldering iron holders are fitted with
pads of stainless steel 'pot scrubbers'
from the local grocery or department store.
Emacs!
There are copper versions of this tool
which are to be avoided for obvious
reasons. The drill for making a joint
is to pick up the iron, push it into
the scrubber a couple of strokes,
wet the tip with fresh solder, place
the wetted surface against the work-piece(s)
and the apply solder BETWEEN the iron
and the work-piece until the joining
'flows'.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Opinions of electrical layout please |
| From: | "Av8rrob" <av8rrob(at)gmail.com> |
Here's my general layout that I came up with. Soliciting opinions.
Thanks
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487770#487770
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/rv_14_electrical_2_813.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Opinions of electrical layout please |
At 01:00 PM 2/23/2019, you wrote:
>
>Here's my general layout that I came up with. Soliciting opinions.
>
>Thanks
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487770#487770
>
>
>Attachments:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com//files/rv_14_electrical_2_813.jpg
Can you share the line of reasoning
suggesting that the above architecture has a
lower risk factor than Z-12?
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Opinions of electrical layout please |
| From: | "Av8rrob" <av8rrob(at)gmail.com> |
I guess my reasoning for the few modifications to the z-12 are as follows.
Avionics bus powered by either ess or main bus for easy load shedding.
Stanby alternator left the on position in flight (lower voltage output) and wired
thru a DPDT switch with the IBBS backup battery for brownout and emergency
protection for vital flight instruments.
My procedure would be to power up with;
Standby bat on (check voltage)
Main bat on (check voltage)
Ign on
Start engine
Stanby alt on (check voltage)
Main alt on (check voltage)
Avionics on
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487779#487779
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Opinions of electrical layout please |
| From: | "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com> |
What is the backup plan in case the avionics switch fails?
Why have an avionics switch?
How much leakage current flows though the 25 amps alternator when
everything is off? Is it enough to run the battery down over time?
Can the IBBS battery be charged when the standby alternator is on?
In case of smoke in the cockpit, can both the IBBS battery and the
standby alternator be shut off?
Has the Earth-X battery been sized to accept full alternator output?
Is that a resistor or current shunt in series with the 60 amp alternator output?
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487780#487780
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kenneth Melvin <melvinke(at)coho.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Opinions of electrical layout please |
> On Feb 23, 2019, at 4:41 PM, user9253 wrote:
>
>
> What is the backup plan in case the avionics switch fails?
> Why have an avionics switch?
> How much leakage current flows though the 25 amps alternator when
> everything is off? Is it enough to run the battery down over time?
> Can the IBBS battery be charged when the standby alternator is on?
> In case of smoke in the cockpit, can both the IBBS battery and the
> standby alternator be shut off?
> Has the Earth-X battery been sized to accept full alternator output?
> Is that a resistor or current shunt in series with the 60 amp alternator output?
>
> --------
> Joe Gores
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487780#487780
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kenneth Melvin <melvinke(at)coho.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Opinions of electrical layout please |
> On Feb 23, 2019, at 4:41 PM, user9253 wrote:
>
>
> What is the backup plan in case the avionics switch fails?
> Why have an avionics switch?
> How much leakage current flows though the 25 amps alternator when
> everything is off? Is it enough to run the battery down over time?
> Can the IBBS battery be charged when the standby alternator is on?
> In case of smoke in the cockpit, can both the IBBS battery and the
> standby alternator be shut off?
> Has the Earth-X battery been sized to accept full alternator output?
> Is that a resistor or current shunt in series with the 60 amp alternator output?
>
> --------
> Joe Gores
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487780#487780
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Opinions of electrical layout please |
| From: | "Av8rrob" <av8rrob(at)gmail.com> |
user9253 wrote:
> What is the backup plan in case the avionics switch fails?
> Why have an avionics switch?
> How much leakage current flows though the 25 amps alternator when
> everything is off? Is it enough to run the battery down over time?
> Can the IBBS battery be charged when the standby alternator is on?
> In case of smoke in the cockpit, can both the IBBS battery and the
> standby alternator be shut off?
> Has the Earth-X battery been sized to accept full alternator output?
> Is that a resistor or current shunt in series with the 60 amp alternator output?
If the avionics switch fails, then the only loss is some non-essential avionics.
I like the availability to load shed. I guess if i was stranded with a broken
switch I could just had wire the avionics bus to the main bus to get home.
Excuse my ignorance but Im not aware of leakage current of a switched off alternator,
can you explain further? The IBBS battery will charge as long as the
master battery is switched on which will allow the main bus to be powered by
the alt, followed by the standby alt, followed by the main battery. Yes, if there
is smoke, both master and backup switches will be turned off. This will leave
the ignition running off its own dedicated battery (1 hr) and the G5 running
off its own battery. I cant speak about earth x batteries issues (still need
to talk to them). Just call it a battery for now. That was my attempt at a
current shunt in series with the alt.
Thanks for your thoughts. Keep em coming.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487783#487783
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Opinions of electrical layout please |
| From: | "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com> |
I think that there should be some way to disconnect the standby alternator "B"
lead from the battery. The internal diodes might not leak much current. But in
case of an imminent forced landing, all electrical power should be shut off as
close to the source as possible. Always hot wires could make sparks and start
a
fire.
Unlike lead-acid batteries, Earth-X batteries do not have very much internal
resistance to limit charging current. If the battery is run down, it will accept
everything that the alternator can supply, i.e. 60+ amps. The size of the lithium
battery needs to determined based on the alternator size.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487784#487784
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Opinions of electrical layout please |
| From: | "Av8rrob" <av8rrob(at)gmail.com> |
Excellent point about the hot wire to the alternator. Any recommendations of how
I can do that best?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487785#487785
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Pengilly" <Peter(at)sportingaero.com> |
I'm not a great fan. They are less expensive than many other vendors, but the installation
is often more challenging.
It depends on your experience, intended use and budget.
Users have access to much of the code, particularly the display configuration,
which is good and bad.
The owner can make the display what he wants, but many smart people have spend
many, many hours defining standards for aircraft displays - why should you be
able to do better than them?
Trig radios are better.
Peter
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com>
On Behalf Of David and Elaine Lamphere
Sent: 22 February 2019 02:39
Subject: AeroElectric-List: MGL Avionics
-->
Looking for anyones experience with any of the MGL avionics units.
The remote mounted V16 com radio with the Razor controller looks interesting.
Any comments or advice concerning these products? Would you put them in a new plane?
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
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Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487789#487789
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Opinions of electrical layout please |
| From: | "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com> |
Attached is a way to minimize the length of hot wires when switches are shut off.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487792#487792
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/av8rrob_352.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ernest Christley <echristley(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: MGL Avionics |
rtingaero.com> wrote:
ero.com>
Users have access to much of the code, particularly the display configurati
on, which is good and bad.
The owner can make the display what he wants, but many smart people have sp
end many, many hours defining standards for aircraft displays - why should
you be able to do better than them?
I don't mean to start a week long thread, but this is a legitimate question
that is often asked, and it has a very good answer that applies to a large
r set of problems.A user can do better than the professionals, because the
user has to worry about exactly ONE airplane.=C2- The "smart people", pro
fessionals, have to worry about a great many airplanes that are flown in a
wide range of scenarios.=C2- I'm a software engineer, and I spend half of
my design time trying to constrain the scope.=C2- I'm constantly explain
ing to my workmates that taking on one more requirement increases the compl
exity exponentially.=C2- A user can design a better interface, because he
is dealing with a smaller problem space.
=C2-Doesn't mean she will.=C2- It means she can.
Also, , generally the user isn't needing to make a living off of the result
s.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Opinions of electrical layout please |
>
>If the avionics switch fails, then the only loss is some
>non-essential avionics.
>I like the availability to load shed.
Have you conducted a Failure Mode Effects
Analysis in concert with a Load Analysis?
Under what operating condition + failure
will you need to load-shed? You have a
25A standby alternator that should carry
lots of electro-whizzies. It may well
be that the load-shedding protocols are
little more complicated that opening
the avionics switch.
Dropping a couple of 'big' loads
as part of the Plan-B protocol
seems far more practical than
driving up complexity with the
switch/diode array you've illustrated.
> I guess if i was stranded with a broken switch I
> could just had wire the avionics bus to the main
> bus to get home.
It may well be that the avionics switch
is and un-necessary antagonist to
risk of failure.
>Excuse my ignorance but Im not aware of leakage
>current of a switched off alternator, can you
>explain further?
Not a concern . . . there are tens of
millions of alternators hard-wired to
the battery of cars with no deleterious
effect. "Leakage" back through the alternator
diodes is vanishingly small.
>The IBBS battery will charge as long as the master
>battery is switched on which will allow the main bus
>to be powered by the alt, followed by the standby alt,
>followed by the main battery. Yes, if there is smoke, both master
>and backup switches will be turned off. This will leave the ignition
>running off its own dedicated battery (1 hr) and the G5 running off
>its own battery. I cant speak about earth x batteries issues (still
>need to talk to them). Just call it a battery for now. That was my
>attempt at a current shunt in series with the alt.
Let's do the math and FMEA first. What
gizmos are least likely to be useful
during a main alternator failure?
What is the configuration of your
ignition system? Why a separate
battery?
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | ENDURANCE BUS ALTERNATIVE |
| From: | "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com> |
If the main purpose of the Endurance Bus is to reduce pilot workload in case the
alternator fails, then there is an alternative solution. Arrange the switches
in
order of importance and color code them. When the alternator fails, the pilot
finishes his coffee, then starts shutting off switches on the far right and
works his way to the left. Several switches could be shut off with one motion
of the hand. A physical barrier or open space could separate essential
switches from non-essential ones. The advantage of this architecture is a
simplified electrical system, only one bus, no diodes, and yes, even reduced
pilot workload. She will not have to remember which loads are connected to
which bus. Some loads could be essential or not depending on the flight
conditions. Just turn them on or off as needed.
_ What about the backup-electrical-current path that the E-Bus relay
provides? No problem, just install a 40 amp automotive relay (disabled
during starting) in parallel with the battery contactor. The master switch
would have 3 positions: down-off, center-relay, up-contactor.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487800#487800
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Henador Titzoff <henador_titzoff(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ENDURANCE BUS ALTERNATIVE |
Joe,
Your description of one common bus with multiple switches to select singula
r on and offs is brilliant!=C2- It assumes that one has plenty of time to
determine what to turn on and off, but it's typically true in light emerge
ncies such as an alternator failure. I'm not sure what you mean by the "bac
kup-electrical-current" path that the E-bus relay provides.=C2- Can you p
lease explain it?
I'm not saying that the E-bus concept is a failure.=C2- It's being used s
uccessfully today in many experimentals and when certain failure modes occu
r, I'm sure it validates itself.=C2- From a pilot's point of view, it's a
much simpler interface, and simplicity is good in dire emergencies.
Henador Titzoff
om> wrote:
If the main purpose of the Endurance Bus is to reduce pilot workload in cas
e the
alternator fails, then there is an alternative solution.=C2- Arrange the
switches in
order of importance and color code them.=C2- When the alternator fails, t
he pilot
finishes his coffee, then starts shutting off switches on the far right and
works his way to the left.=C2- Several switches could be shut off with on
e motion
of the hand.=C2- A physical barrier or open space could separate essentia
l
switches from non-essential ones.=C2- The advantage of this architecture
is a
simplified electrical system, only one bus, no diodes, and yes, even reduce
d
pilot workload.=C2- She will not have to remember which loads are connect
ed to
which bus.=C2- Some loads could be essential or not depending on the flig
ht
conditions.=C2- Just turn them on or off as needed.
_=C2- What about the backup-electrical-current path that the E-Bus relay
provides?=C2- No problem, just install a 40 amp automotive relay (disable
d
during starting) in parallel with the battery contactor.=C2- The master s
witch
would have 3 positions: down-off, center-relay, up-contactor.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487800#487800
-
S -
WIKI -
-
=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ENDURANCE BUS ALTERNATIVE |
| From: | "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com> |
Thanks for your reply Henador. Most of Bob's "Z" figures have an Endurance
Bus which can receive electrical power from the battery via two possible paths.
Using Z-13/8 as an example, the normal path is from the battery, through the
battery contactor and though a diode to the Endurance Bus. The alternate
current path is from the battery bus, through the E-Bus relay to the Endurance
Bus. There is certainly nothing wrong with Bob's architecture. In fact, many
builders are better off using one of his proven wiring diagrams instead of
designing their own. Some builder architecture has a hidden flaw that only
becomes apparent under certain conditions. The more complicated the
electrical architecture is, the greater the chance of pilot error when the mind
goes blank in in a emergency.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487806#487806
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Girard <aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: MGL Avionics |
I have no love for MGL avionics. I work on an airplane with an Enigma EFIS
and a better name could not be made for it unless it was prefaced with POS.
The problem is the user manual(s). There might as well be none since what
there are are almost completely worthless. I've spent many days and nights
trying to figure out how to get the thing to talk to standard Rotax
sensors. There aren't any options for them and what there are just don't
work. MGL abandoned the model after the second faulty revision of the
manuals so it's a mystery of what to do to get it to talk to its display.
To this day I cannot get the thing to display oil pressure. We've changed
out the sender and run down the wires connecting the RDX box to the display
without result. I've tried every option the software gives (and none of it
is as the manual(s) say it is) and cannot get a reliable readout.
So my recommendation is that unless you are capable of writing your own
code and want to spend many, many extra hours trying to get what you paid
for, give MGL a very wide birth.
Rick Girard
On Sun, Feb 24, 2019 at 2:20 PM Ernest Christley wrote
:
>
>
> Peter(at)sportingaero.com> wrote:
>
> Peter(at)sportingaero.com>
> Users have access to much of the code, particularly the display
> configuration, which is good and bad.
> The owner can make the display what he wants, but many smart people have
> spend many, many hours defining standards for aircraft displays - why
> should you be able to do better than them?
>
>
> I don't mean to start a week long thread, but this is a legitimate
> question that is often asked, and it has a very good answer that applies
to
> a larger set of problems.
> A user can do better than the professionals, because the user has to worr
y
> about exactly ONE airplane. The "smart people", professionals, have to
> worry about a great many airplanes that are flown in a wide range of
> scenarios. I'm a software engineer, and I spend half of my design time
> trying to constrain the scope. I'm constantly explaining to my workmates
> that taking on one more requirement increases the complexity
> exponentially. A user can design a better interface, because he is deali
ng
> with a smaller problem space.
>
> Doesn't mean she will. It means she can.
>
> Also, , generally the user isn't needing to make a living off of the
> results.
>
>
--
=9CBlessed are the cracked, for they shall let in the light.=9D
Groucho Marx
<http://www.goodreads.com/author/show/43244.Groucho_Marx>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Pengilly" <Peter(at)sportingaero.com> |
All true, but assumes the user is smart enough to figure out which
aspects can be safely modified and which should be left alone.
How many times have you read magazine reports about a featured aircraft
where you are left asking,
=9CWhy did s/he do that?!!=9D
Many modifications are shown to be ill-conceived in the light of
operational experience. When working away on his own in the garage the
builder rationalises a modification that seems an obvious improvement.
Except that his lack of operational experience with the
aircraft/equipment fails to highlight the reason the modification has
not been included by the designer.
How many times have you heard, just a small software change
For some the ability to make software changes will be a significant
bonus. Not my cup of tea.
Peter
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
On Behalf Of Ernest
Christley
Sent: 24 February 2019 20:15
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: MGL Avionics
> wrote:
>
Users have access to much of the code, particularly the display
configuration, which is good and bad.
The owner can make the display what he wants, but many smart people have
spend many, many hours defining standards for aircraft displays - why
should you be able to do better than them?
I don't mean to start a week long thread, but this is a legitimate
question that is often asked, and it has a very good answer that applies
to a larger set of problems.
A user can do better than the professionals, because the user has to
worry about exactly ONE airplane. The "smart people", professionals,
have to worry about a great many airplanes that are flown in a wide
range of scenarios. I'm a software engineer, and I spend half of my
design time trying to constrain the scope. I'm constantly explaining to
my workmates that taking on one more requirement increases the
complexity exponentially. A user can design a better interface, because
he is dealing with a smaller problem space.
Doesn't mean she will. It means she can.
Also, , generally the user isn't needing to make a living off of the
results.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | History of the E-Bus |
One dark and quiet night, a long time ago, I got
a call from one of my California seminar attendees
wrestling with a Load Analysis/FMEA for his
Long-Ez project.
He cited a seminar discussion about the value
of Plan-B protocols for dealing with single
failure of a really important component
of the electrical system. A plan that would
prevent a failure from becoming the source
of his personal 'dark-n-stormy-night' story
. . . or worse yet . . . root cause of events
that produced an NTSB accident report on
his demise.
His airplane was fitted with an SD-8. 8+
Amps in cruise rpm. He was interested in long
endurance flights over unfriendly terrain limited
to daytime only. No lights on the aircraft.
After some discussion we settled on a design
goal for powering a minimally useful list of
electro-whizzies, battery only for duration
of fuel aboard.
I forget the exact numbers but one of the
sticking points of our study was the battery
contactor . . . 0.8A of constant draw while
energized . . . enough energy to operate two
solid state radios . . . just sitting there
using that energy to do nothing more than
get warm.
During that discussion, we concocted the idea
of an ENDURANCE bus to (1) power a
minimally useful equipment list, (2) power
additional items easily turned off to shed
load and (3) have a battery energy path
around a de-energized battery contactor.
I think it was Figure Z-1 back in those days
but the outcome of the conversation added a
bus structure diode fed from the main bus
and switched feed from the battery bus. As
I recall, we crafted a plan-B for his
project that would offer 5+ hours of
battery only operations with a battery
offering only 80% of nameplate capacity.
I made a mistake in calling it the ESSENTIAL
bus. Others wanted to call it the EMERGENCY
bus. Later I reasoned that the sole purpose
for installing the E-Bus was to prevent loss
of alternator or battery contactor from
becoming an emergency.
Easily switched gizmos of lesser utility
might also be driven from this bus;
easily managed by performing a check-list
driven transition to Plan-B.
Over the years, some builders have opted
to add switches to 'protect' avionics.
Some persist in the EMERGENCY/ESSENTIAL
nomenclature . . . which is fine. But
understand that the E-Bus has roots in
a design goal to maximize the utility of
a very limited electrical system while
reducing risk.
The E-bus is still practical for architectures
like Z13/8 where the second engine driven
power source is small (cheap and light too!).
Z13/8 offers an unlimited duration for en route
energy supplied by the SD8 and practically
unlimited energy for descent and approach
to landing by taping battery reserves
to augment the alternator.
As larger, pad-driven alternators became
available, the TC aircraft world readily
embraced the notion of simply adding the
second, smaller alternator in tandem
with the main alternator but with no
significant changes to original architecture
(See Z12). The larger pad-driven machine reduced
concerns for parasitic loads like battery
contactors. It also simplified crafting
plan-B requirements for load-shedding.
The value of an E-bus goes down.
This narrative is intended to encourage
well considered decisions for 'enhancing'
a Z-figure. We have an opportunity here on
the List to advance the state of our art
and science with tools the TC aircraft
world has largely abandoned.
In no way do I suggest that enhancements are
not useful . . . to be sure, Z-figs have
evolved considerably over 31 years of
collective consideration by what must now
include several thousand observers/
contributors.
Let us continue to refine old or advance
new ideas . . . but let's do it by the
numbers and with diligent respect for
lessons learned.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | List subscription problems? |
I've had some reports of subscribers to the
List being 'dropped' for reasons unknown.
In each case, the victim was able to renew
their membership through the /subscribe page
on matronics.com
Has anyone else experienced this difficulty?
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Christopher Cee Stone <rv8iator(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: List subscription problems? |
Bob...
Yes, was dropped and unable to log in to re-subscribe. Contacted Matt and
the issue was resolved.
-Chris Stone
On Tue, Feb 26, 2019 at 12:14 PM Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
> nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
>
> I've had some reports of subscribers to the
> List being 'dropped' for reasons unknown.
>
> In each case, the victim was able to renew
> their membership through the /subscribe page
> on matronics.com
>
> Has anyone else experienced this difficulty?
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Buy [5Pieces] Samsung Galaxy New S10/S10+ 128GB $3,495CAD |
| From: | "trptioip" <trptioip(at)esellibuy.com> |
Available to buy on our website www . esellibuy . com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487829#487829
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: History of the E-Bus |
| From: | "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com> |
Each builder has their own ideas on how to wire their airplane. It would be nice
to offer more Z figures to give builders more electrical diagrams to choose
from.. Modern EFISs have a built-in low voltage warning. So the new Z figure
will not need low voltage warning. Many EFISs come with their own internal
backup battery that will last for an hour or more. Some builders might not want
or need an E-Bus. Below is a circuit without a separate E-Bus. But it does
have a relay in parallel with the battery contactor. That relay provides a
parallel current path similar to an E-Bus relay.
For normal operations, the master switch will be in up position. If the pilot
wishes to conserve electrical energy for any reason or if the battery contactor
fails, the pilot can move the master switch to the center position (endurance
mode). The power hungry battery contactor will be disabled and the relay
will turn on. Symptoms of battery contactor failure may be abnormal fluctuations
of system voltage.
The center position of the master switch is also useful for ground operations
such as electrical troubleshooting or just sitting in the aircraft learning how
to use the avionics. The relay uses a fraction of the power that a contactor
does. The starter is disabled with the master switch in the center position,
making it safer while working on the plane.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487834#487834
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/contactor_parallel_relay_176.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: History of the E-Bus |
| From: | "Av8rrob" <av8rrob(at)gmail.com> |
Bob, I appreciate the back story. As a newbie builder I also appreciate the knowledge
and dedication that you have given the aviation community for so long.
My challenge has been to find a balance between too simple and too robust/complicated
in my layout. As I look at information put you by suppliers (garmin etc.)
other builders and wise pros like yourself its tough to sort though all the
opinions. Switched avionics bus ..... or not. E- bus ... or not. IBBS backup
battery.... or not. Brownout.....
In my previous posts youve challenged me to justify my modifications from your
tried and true and I guess the ideas Ive had come from wanting the simplicity
of the z-12 with the other opinions thrown into the mix. I will follow this thread
closely.
Thanks again
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487835#487835
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Static Wicks - Bonding of Flight Controls |
| From: | "jsajpf" <john.friday_adis(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Bob (et al),
Looking for insight into legacy Type Certificated airplane design rationale for
installing static wicks and bonding jumpers between fixed structure and movable
flight control surfaces.
Several E/AB designs do not specify installation of static wicks nor bonding jumpers
for flight control surfaces. The particular design I plan to build is among
this group and reports from those with years flying the design are (albeit
a limited number of respondents): no issues with P-static and the like.
I cannot attest to the types of operations, nor how frequent the exposure to conditions
conducive to P-Static interference, for the respondents to my query.
Looking for input from TC house folks (Bob) regarding rules of thumb, design standards,
etc. regarding incorporation of static wicks and bonding??
My experience with the subject matter is as a maintainer, troubleshooting reports
of symptoms of P-Static while in visible moisture, required inspections after
a lightning strike, routine verification (inspections) of electrode-to-surface
bonding values, etc. Correction of broken or degraded control surface bonding
cured the majority of reported faults. Some degraded antenna bonds are among
the mix as well. Design standards applicable to mitigating P-Static trouble
are not clear to me and my understanding of design criteria/recommendations
is admittedly academic (at best).
What say ye, the sage?!
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487843#487843
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hulls <johnr470(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Grounding to tube frame structures |
What is the best method to ground a battery located behind the baggage compartment
to a frame tube in a fabric covered aircraft?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Grounding to tube frame structures |
At 08:28 AM 2/28/2019, you wrote:
>
>What is the best method to ground a battery located behind the
>baggage compartment to a frame tube in a fabric covered aircraft?
You would like to have a gas-tight connection
to structure . . . ideally a welded bolt-
tab to accept the battery(-) lead.
Is the airplane already covered?
If not, adding the tab should be
a relatively simple task.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Static Wicks - Bonding of Flight Controls |
At 10:21 PM 2/27/2019, you wrote:
>
>
>Bob (et al),
>Looking for insight into legacy Type Certificated airplane design
>rationale for installing static wicks and bonding jumpers between
>fixed structure and movable flight control surfaces.
Selecting style, number and placement of
static wicks on a TC aircraft is an arduous
task made possible by a survey of the ship's
natural streamer locations . . . which
may or may NOT be in the same locations
for similar aircraft. We used to bolt
static wicks to some models at Cessna . . .
as I recall it was a kit that a customer
could order. But I'm 99% sure there were
no electro-static survey tools used to
optimize the location of wicks much
less confirm their efficacy.
>Several E/AB designs do not specify installation of static wicks nor
>bonding jumpers for flight control surfaces. The particular design
>I plan to build is among this group and reports from those with
>years flying the design are (albeit a limited number of
>respondents): no issues with P-static and the like.
Then I wouldn't worry about it. P-static
issues are rare in the OBAM aircraft world.
We just don't spend much time cruising at
300 knots through rain, snow or ice
crystals.
>I cannot attest to the types of operations, nor how frequent the
>exposure to conditions conducive to P-Static interference, for the
>respondents to my query.
>
>Looking for input from TC house folks (Bob) regarding rules of
>thumb, design standards, etc. regarding incorporation of static
>wicks and bonding??
>
>My experience with the subject matter is as a maintainer,
>troubleshooting reports of symptoms of P-Static while in visible
>moisture, required inspections after a lightning strike, routine
>verification (inspections) of electrode-to-surface bonding values,
>etc. Correction of broken or degraded control surface bonding cured
>the majority of reported faults. Some degraded antenna bonds are
>among the mix as well. Design standards applicable to mitigating
>P-Static trouble are not clear to me and my understanding of design
>criteria/recommendations is admittedly academic (at best).
>
>What say ye, the sage?!
I wouldn't bolt any hardware to the
airplane until experience suggests
it might fix a demonstrated difficulty.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Static Wicks - Bonding of Flight Controls |
| From: | "jsajpf" <john.friday_adis(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Sounds like wisdom to me Bob. Thanks for the response!
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487869#487869
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hulls <johnr470(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Grounding to tube structures |
Unfortunately it is already covered and in the rear of the fuselage where access
is somewhat difficult.
Thanks
> On Feb 28, 2019, at 11:30 PM, AeroElectric-List Digest Server
wrote:
>
> *
>
> =================================================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> =================================================
>
> Today's complete AeroElectric-List Digest can also be found in either of the
> two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
> in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
> and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
> of the AeroElectric-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
> such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
> HTML Version:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter 19-02-28&Archive=AeroElectric
>
> Text Version:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter 19-02-28&Archive=AeroElectric
>
>
> ===============================================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> ===============================================
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> AeroElectric-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Thu 02/28/19: 4
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
> 1. 06:29 AM - Grounding to tube frame structures (John Hulls)
> 2. 07:18 AM - Re: Grounding to tube frame structures (Robert L. Nuckolls,
III)
> 3. 08:46 AM - Re: Static Wicks - Bonding of Flight Controls (Robert L. Nuckolls,
III)
> 4. 04:34 PM - Re: Static Wicks - Bonding of Flight Controls (jsajpf)
>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________
>
>
> From: John Hulls <johnr470(at)aol.com>
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Grounding to tube frame structures
>
>
> What is the best method to ground a battery located behind the baggage compartment
> to a frame tube in a fabric covered aircraft?
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________
>
>
> From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Grounding to tube frame structures
>
> At 08:28 AM 2/28/2019, you wrote:
>>
>> What is the best method to ground a battery located behind the
>> baggage compartment to a frame tube in a fabric covered aircraft?
>
> You would like to have a gas-tight connection
> to structure . . . ideally a welded bolt-
> tab to accept the battery(-) lead.
> Is the airplane already covered?
> If not, adding the tab should be
> a relatively simple task.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________
>
>
> From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Static Wicks - Bonding of Flight Controls
>
> At 10:21 PM 2/27/2019, you wrote:
>>
>>
>> Bob (et al),
>> Looking for insight into legacy Type Certificated airplane design
>> rationale for installing static wicks and bonding jumpers between
>> fixed structure and movable flight control surfaces.
>
> Selecting style, number and placement of
> static wicks on a TC aircraft is an arduous
> task made possible by a survey of the ship's
> natural streamer locations . . . which
> may or may NOT be in the same locations
> for similar aircraft. We used to bolt
> static wicks to some models at Cessna . . .
> as I recall it was a kit that a customer
> could order. But I'm 99% sure there were
> no electro-static survey tools used to
> optimize the location of wicks much
> less confirm their efficacy.
>
>
>> Several E/AB designs do not specify installation of static wicks nor
>> bonding jumpers for flight control surfaces. The particular design
>> I plan to build is among this group and reports from those with
>> years flying the design are (albeit a limited number of
>> respondents): no issues with P-static and the like.
>
> Then I wouldn't worry about it. P-static
> issues are rare in the OBAM aircraft world.
> We just don't spend much time cruising at
> 300 knots through rain, snow or ice
> crystals.
>
>> I cannot attest to the types of operations, nor how frequent the
>> exposure to conditions conducive to P-Static interference, for the
>> respondents to my query.
>>
>> Looking for input from TC house folks (Bob) regarding rules of
>> thumb, design standards, etc. regarding incorporation of static
>> wicks and bonding??
>>
>> My experience with the subject matter is as a maintainer,
>> troubleshooting reports of symptoms of P-Static while in visible
>> moisture, required inspections after a lightning strike, routine
>> verification (inspections) of electrode-to-surface bonding values,
>> etc. Correction of broken or degraded control surface bonding cured
>> the majority of reported faults. Some degraded antenna bonds are
>> among the mix as well. Design standards applicable to mitigating
>> P-Static trouble are not clear to me and my understanding of design
>> criteria/recommendations is admittedly academic (at best).
>>
>> What say ye, the sage?!
>
> I wouldn't bolt any hardware to the
> airplane until experience suggests
> it might fix a demonstrated difficulty.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________
>
>
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Static Wicks - Bonding of Flight Controls
> From: "jsajpf" <john.friday_adis(at)sbcglobal.net>
>
>
> Sounds like wisdom to me Bob. Thanks for the response!
> John
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487869#487869
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Ciolino" <JohnCiolino(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Grounding to tube structures |
One route to go is to use a non-insolated Adel clamp (e.g. AN742-10 in
steel) on an interior tube. You would have to sand all the paint off the
tube to make good contact.
John Ciolino
Bearhawk Patrol
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Hulls
Sent: Friday, March 1, 2019 4:03 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Grounding to tube structures
Unfortunately it is already covered and in the rear of the fuselage where
access is somewhat difficult.
Thanks
> On Feb 28, 2019, at 11:30 PM, AeroElectric-List Digest Server
wrote:
>
> *
>
> =================================================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> =================================================
>
> Today's complete AeroElectric-List Digest can also be found in either of
the
> two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
> in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
> and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
> of the AeroElectric-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text
editor
> such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
> HTML Version:
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter
19-02-28&Archive=AeroElectric
>
> Text Version:
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter
2019-02-28&Archive=AeroElectric
>
>
> ===============================================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> ===============================================
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> AeroElectric-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Thu 02/28/19: 4
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
> 1. 06:29 AM - Grounding to tube frame structures (John Hulls)
> 2. 07:18 AM - Re: Grounding to tube frame structures (Robert L.
Nuckolls, III)
> 3. 08:46 AM - Re: Static Wicks - Bonding of Flight Controls (Robert
L. Nuckolls, III)
> 4. 04:34 PM - Re: Static Wicks - Bonding of Flight Controls (jsajpf)
>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 1
_____________________________________
>
>
> From: John Hulls <johnr470(at)aol.com>
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Grounding to tube frame structures
>
>
> What is the best method to ground a battery located behind the baggage
compartment
> to a frame tube in a fabric covered aircraft?
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 2
_____________________________________
>
>
> From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Grounding to tube frame structures
>
> At 08:28 AM 2/28/2019, you wrote:
>>
>> What is the best method to ground a battery located behind the
>> baggage compartment to a frame tube in a fabric covered aircraft?
>
> You would like to have a gas-tight connection
> to structure . . . ideally a welded bolt-
> tab to accept the battery(-) lead.
> Is the airplane already covered?
> If not, adding the tab should be
> a relatively simple task.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> ________________________________ Message 3
_____________________________________
>
>
> From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Static Wicks - Bonding of Flight
Controls
>
> At 10:21 PM 2/27/2019, you wrote:
>>
>>
>> Bob (et al),
>> Looking for insight into legacy Type Certificated airplane design
>> rationale for installing static wicks and bonding jumpers between
>> fixed structure and movable flight control surfaces.
>
> Selecting style, number and placement of
> static wicks on a TC aircraft is an arduous
> task made possible by a survey of the ship's
> natural streamer locations . . . which
> may or may NOT be in the same locations
> for similar aircraft. We used to bolt
> static wicks to some models at Cessna . . .
> as I recall it was a kit that a customer
> could order. But I'm 99% sure there were
> no electro-static survey tools used to
> optimize the location of wicks much
> less confirm their efficacy.
>
>
>> Several E/AB designs do not specify installation of static wicks nor
>> bonding jumpers for flight control surfaces. The particular design
>> I plan to build is among this group and reports from those with
>> years flying the design are (albeit a limited number of
>> respondents): no issues with P-static and the like.
>
> Then I wouldn't worry about it. P-static
> issues are rare in the OBAM aircraft world.
> We just don't spend much time cruising at
> 300 knots through rain, snow or ice
> crystals.
>
>> I cannot attest to the types of operations, nor how frequent the
>> exposure to conditions conducive to P-Static interference, for the
>> respondents to my query.
>>
>> Looking for input from TC house folks (Bob) regarding rules of
>> thumb, design standards, etc. regarding incorporation of static
>> wicks and bonding??
>>
>> My experience with the subject matter is as a maintainer,
>> troubleshooting reports of symptoms of P-Static while in visible
>> moisture, required inspections after a lightning strike, routine
>> verification (inspections) of electrode-to-surface bonding values,
>> etc. Correction of broken or degraded control surface bonding cured
>> the majority of reported faults. Some degraded antenna bonds are
>> among the mix as well. Design standards applicable to mitigating
>> P-Static trouble are not clear to me and my understanding of design
>> criteria/recommendations is admittedly academic (at best).
>>
>> What say ye, the sage?!
>
> I wouldn't bolt any hardware to the
> airplane until experience suggests
> it might fix a demonstrated difficulty.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> ________________________________ Message 4
_____________________________________
>
>
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Static Wicks - Bonding of Flight Controls
> From: "jsajpf" <john.friday_adis(at)sbcglobal.net>
>
>
> Sounds like wisdom to me Bob. Thanks for the response!
> John
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487869#487869
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Grounding to tube structures |
| From: | "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com> |
The airframe does not necessarily have to be grounded does it?
Just run a separate cable from battery negative to the engine block or firewall.
If the airframe must be grounded, is there a convenient place forward of the battery?
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487884#487884
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Grounding to tube structures |
At 03:02 AM 3/1/2019, you wrote:
>
>Unfortunately it is already covered and in the rear of the fuselage
>where access is somewhat difficult.
consider running a battery(-) wire all the way
up to the firewall ground stud. What size
engine and battery are we talking about?
How much wire to get from battery to firewall?
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 543390-153 Air Jordan 6 Retro GS Green Abyss |
| From: | "blair2019" <stevenrowe98(at)gmail.com> |
2019 Mens Jordans (https://www.2019mensjordans.com) The black and red Air Jordan 6 that was released in early February will once again push this classic shoe to the top of the popular shoes. Recently, there is a new color matching Air Jordan 6 coming soon. Air Jordan 6 Retro GS Green Abyss is a large area with white and dark green, and the body is decorated with colorful and smudged textures like oil paintings. Different from the previous single leather decoration, these shoes create a more lively and beautiful color texture. In addition to the regular gs version of women's shoes, there are also children's shoes will be on sale. Although the model size is smaller and the texture is more lovely, the detail design is still as elegant as gs.
Recently, the Adidas Sneakers (https://www.2019sneakersrelease.com/product-category/adidas-sneakers/) release first gray and orange color of the Yeezy Boost 350 V2 Beluga will be re-sold on the Internet, and it is said that it will adopt a brand new shoe box, which is not a practical kraft box. This rumor has not yet been confirmed. Although Yeezy's "re-engravement" is nothing new, it has never re-launched the precedent of OG's first color scheme. However, the OG's first color match was released again, but it has appeared in NMD, so this is not rumored.
Jordans 2019 Shoes (https://www.jordans2019shoes.com) After exposing the splinter of the shoes, the Paris Saint-Germain co-branded Air Jordan 6 PSG ushered in a new picture, showing the full 3M reflective effect of the white body! This PSG co-branded product has the classic temperament of White Infrared, but the 3M reflective effect of the full upper will undoubtedly bring it a superb street eye-catching effect, followed by the Nike Logo designed in the first year.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487887#487887
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Landing gear electric actuator circuit |
| From: | "jdubner" <jdubner(at)yahoo.com> |
My Long-EZ nose gear uses an electric actuator. The actuator does not have internal limit switches but I have added them and use them to control a pair of relays (see schematic: http://forums.matronics.com/files/nose_gear_actuator_108.pdf). (The electrical load is up to 10A -- too much for my limit switches -- hence the relays.)
I would like to incorporate a backup electrical extension system that would eliminate
any single point of failure (other than the actuator itself) and my attempt
is shown in the schematic. It's close, but not exactly failure-proof because
it adds the backup switch contacts as a single point of failure.
Can anyone suggest a better scheme?
--------
RV-8A
Independence, OR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487895#487895
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/nose_gear_actuator_108.pdf
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Landing gear electric actuator circuit |
| From: | "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com> |
Those limit switches are suitable for 10 amps. No relays are necessary. A snap
action switch can easily carry the same DC current at 12 volts DC as it can at
125 volts AC, which is 15 amps in this case. This is true because the DC
voltage is only 1/10 of the AC voltage. If you do not believe it, ask Bob N. or
call Moujen USA and ask them what current the rating is at 12 VDC. Do not
tell them that you will put the switches in an airplane. If they ask, it is proprietary.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487896#487896
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Landing gear electric actuator circuit |
| From: | "jdubner" <jdubner(at)yahoo.com> |
user9253 wrote:
> ...call Moujen USA and ask them what current the rating is at 12 VDC. ...
I looked at the Moujen spec for the MS2 series switch (available here: http://www.moujenswitch.com/products/mj2/mj2_characteristics.htm) and decided it wasn't suitable for 10A operation at 12VDC. Under "Ratings":
If Bob or anyone has better data, I'd be glad to look at it.
But I don't think that substituting the switches for the relays would solve my
problem: I need an alternate electrical method of gear extension if something
in the circuit (but not the actuator) fails.
A separate switch wired to the battery in the correct polarity to only lower the
gear seems reasonable. But the motor is kept shorted by the relay contacts
in at least one failure mode of the circuit so the separate switch must interrupt
the wiring to the motor which adds a whole new failure mode.
If MIL-HKBK-217 has taught us anything, it is that adding components decreases
reliability :-)
--------
RV-8A
Independence, OR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487904#487904
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Insulator in durable gas tight compression |
| From: | Jan de Jong <jan_de_jong(at)casema.nl> |
I have a simple question.
Is there any example in acceptable practices where an insulating layer
(some laminate?) is part of the stack of metal layers that is compressed
to ensure a durable gas tight low resistance electrical connection
between the metal layers?
If there is such that would be great. If such can be categorically
denied that would be great too.
Thanks.
Jan de Jong
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Insulator in durable gas tight compression |
At 02:28 AM 3/4/2019, you wrote:
>Is there any example in acceptable practices where
>an insulating layer (some laminate?) is part of the
>stack of metal layers that is compressed to ensure
>a durable gas tight low resistance electrical
>connection between the metal layers?
Not aware of a joining technology
that uses any form of insulation to
augment integrity of the finished
joint. Gas-tight implies metal-to-
metal free of voids. Insulation
or any other material outside the
joint might be useful for protecting
the edges of the joint . . . like
solder over the 'western union'
splice or heat-shrink over
any other form of joining.
There are dozens of insulation-
displacement technologies wherein the
conductors push the insulation aside
during application . . . but it's
not clear that insulation surrounding
the finished joint is an integral
component of the design's service
life.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Insulator in durable gas tight compression |
| From: | "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com> |
Some switches are made with a layer of plastic included in the compressed electrical
connection.
They are prone to fail. How about mica?
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487910#487910
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Insulator in durable gas tight compression |
| From: | Dick Tasker <dick(at)thetaskerfamily.com> |
I believe you are asking is it okay to use some sort of laminate in the stack-up
of layers wherein the goal is to have something to mount the connection to and
insulate it from your airplane sheet
metal and that will not affect the "gas-tightness" of the connection.
If that is the question, I believe that the answer would be that there are very
few materials that would allow that. Ceramic would work, but that is hared to
work with. Any plastic type material
probably is too soft to not allow some relaxation over time of the joint.
The way to do what I think you want is to connect the bolt (or whatever is part
of the whole assembly) to the laminate with a nut and then put the ring-lug (or
whatever needs to be connected) onto the
bolt and then use another nut to make the connection gas tight. Or if you are just
using the laminate to hold the joint in place, place the two lugs that need
to be connected over the first nut and
then use the final to make it gas tight.
If I have misinterpreted your goal, then just ignore this comment.
Dick Tasker
Jan de Jong wrote:
>
> I have a simple question.
> Is there any example in acceptable practices where an insulating layer (some
laminate?) is part of the stack of metal layers that is compressed to ensure a
durable gas tight low resistance
> electrical connection between the metal layers?
> If there is such that would be great. If such can be categorically denied that
would be great too.
> Thanks.
> Jan de Jong
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Landing gear electric actuator circuit |
| From: | "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com> |
Would this propeller current limiter be suitable for shutting off the landing gear
motor when fully extended or retracted?
http://www.matronics.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=101826
_
Isn't a pilot more likely to fail than a switch or relay? There is a saying that
there pilots who have forgotten to put the gear down and pilots who will.
How about a circuit that will automatically extend the gear?
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487914#487914
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Insulator in durable gas tight compression |
| From: | Jan de Jong <jan_de_jong(at)casema.nl> |
Bob, Joe, Dick, thank you.
This is exactly what I meant - is it possible to combine mechanical
connection, isolated, with electrical connection, gas tight as required,
by compressing the whole lot. It appears not - the functions have to be
separated because the isolating panel material is likely to relax too
much. In any case it looks like it is not in the accepted toolbox.
Sorry I caused confusion.
Jan de Jong
On 3/4/2019 6:48 PM, Dick Tasker wrote:
>
>
> I believe you are asking is it okay to use some sort of laminate in
> the stack-up of layers wherein the goal is to have something to mount
> the connection to and insulate it from your airplane sheet metal and
> that will not affect the "gas-tightness" of the connection.
>
> If that is the question, I believe that the answer would be that there
> are very few materials that would allow that. Ceramic would work, but
> that is hared to work with. Any plastic type material probably is too
> soft to not allow some relaxation over time of the joint.
>
> The way to do what I think you want is to connect the bolt (or
> whatever is part of the whole assembly) to the laminate with a nut and
> then put the ring-lug (or whatever needs to be connected) onto the
> bolt and then use another nut to make the connection gas tight. Or if
> you are just using the laminate to hold the joint in place, place the
> two lugs that need to be connected over the first nut and then use the
> final to make it gas tight.
>
> If I have misinterpreted your goal, then just ignore this comment.
>
> Dick Tasker
>
> Jan de Jong wrote:
>>
>>
>> I have a simple question.
>> Is there any example in acceptable practices where an insulating
>> layer (some laminate?) is part of the stack of metal layers that is
>> compressed to ensure a durable gas tight low resistance electrical
>> connection between the metal layers?
>> If there is such that would be great. If such can be categorically
>> denied that would be great too.
>> Thanks.
>> Jan de Jong
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Insulator in durable gas tight compression |
| From: | Jan de Jong <jan_de_jong(at)casema.nl> |
...
I was actually looking at very hard phenolic laminates and other hard
insulating materials and considering Belleville washers etc. at
McMaster. when I decided to pose my question as a sanity check. I do not
plan to experiment with my electrical connections.
Thanks,
Jan de Jong
On 3/4/2019 9:09 PM, Jan de Jong wrote:
>
>
> Bob, Joe, Dick, thank you.
> This is exactly what I meant - is it possible to combine mechanical
> connection, isolated, with electrical connection, gas tight as
> required, by compressing the whole lot. It appears not - the functions
> have to be separated because the isolating panel material is likely to
> relax too much. In any case it looks like it is not in the accepted
> toolbox.
> Sorry I caused confusion.
> Jan de Jong
>
> On 3/4/2019 6:48 PM, Dick Tasker wrote:
>>
>>
>> I believe you are asking is it okay to use some sort of laminate in
>> the stack-up of layers wherein the goal is to have something to mount
>> the connection to and insulate it from your airplane sheet metal and
>> that will not affect the "gas-tightness" of the connection.
>>
>> If that is the question, I believe that the answer would be that
>> there are very few materials that would allow that. Ceramic would
>> work, but that is hared to work with. Any plastic type material
>> probably is too soft to not allow some relaxation over time of the
>> joint.
>>
>> The way to do what I think you want is to connect the bolt (or
>> whatever is part of the whole assembly) to the laminate with a nut
>> and then put the ring-lug (or whatever needs to be connected) onto
>> the bolt and then use another nut to make the connection gas tight.
>> Or if you are just using the laminate to hold the joint in place,
>> place the two lugs that need to be connected over the first nut and
>> then use the final to make it gas tight.
>>
>> If I have misinterpreted your goal, then just ignore this comment.
>>
>> Dick Tasker
>>
>> Jan de Jong wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> I have a simple question.
>>> Is there any example in acceptable practices where an insulating
>>> layer (some laminate?) is part of the stack of metal layers that is
>>> compressed to ensure a durable gas tight low resistance electrical
>>> connection between the metal layers?
>>> If there is such that would be great. If such can be categorically
>>> denied that would be great too.
>>> Thanks.
>>> Jan de Jong
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Insulator in durable gas tight compression |
| From: | "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com> |
You can use two nuts on the bolt. The first nut holds the bolt in place on the
insulating material. The electrical ring terminals go on next followed by the
second nut. The two nuts compress the terminals together with no plastic in between.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487922#487922
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Insulator in durable gas tight compression |
| From: | Jan de Jong <jan_de_jong(at)casema.nl> |
Yes, separating the functions of locating and connection.
On 3/4/2019 11:57 PM, user9253 wrote:
>
> You can use two nuts on the bolt. The first nut holds the bolt in place on the
> insulating material. The electrical ring terminals go on next followed by the
> second nut. The two nuts compress the terminals together with no plastic in
between.
>
> --------
> Joe Gores
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Landing gear electric actuator circuit |
| From: | GTH <gilles.thesee(at)free.fr> |
Le 04/03/2019 19:22, user9253 a crit:
> How about a circuit that will automatically extend the gear?
>
Joe and all,
This has been done before.
Some years ago I flew a PA28 with a special probe to automatically
extend the gear below a certain airspeed. Due to nuisance gear
extensions, an AD (or was it just an SB ?) had been issued to disable
the device.
Some airplanes have a horn going off any time the throttle is pulled to
idle with the gear up, etc.
The horn could be a good idea - but of course it will sound anytime you
reduce power in flight...Unless you add an airspeed sensor (how do you
establish the speed threshold ?), ground height sensor...
I'd personnally beware of any device trying to do my job in my place :
what when flying an airplane with *no* gear auto-extender ?
--
Best regards,
Gilles
http://contrails.free.fr
http://lapierre.skunkworks.free.fr
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Landing gear electric actuator circuit |
| From: | C&K <yellowduckduo(at)gmail.com> |
On 04/03/2019 8:08 PM, GTH wrote:
>
> Le 04/03/2019 19:22, user9253 a crit:
>> How about a circuit that will automatically extend the gear?
>>
>
> Joe and all,
>
> This has been done before.
>
> Some years ago I flew a PA28 with a special probe to automatically
> extend the gear below a certain airspeed. Due to nuisance gear
> extensions, an AD (or was it just an SB ?) had been issued to disable
> the device.
>
> Some airplanes have a horn going off any time the throttle is pulled
> to idle with the gear up, etc.
>
> The horn could be a good idea - but of course it will sound anytime
> you reduce power in flight...Unless you add an airspeed sensor (how do
> you establish the speed threshold ?), ground height sensor...
>
> I'd personnally beware of any device trying to do my job in my place :
> what when flying an airplane with *no* gear auto-extender ?
>
I don't like giving any control over to electronic devices but I
consider warning devices to be extremely valuable. The challenge is that
they must not nuisance trip which trains us to ignore them. These days
it is relatively cheap to incorporate ground sensing devices or gps
altitudes (with a database) into the warning logic.
Ideally we'd never hear such warnings and would not count on them
whether the aircraft had such a device or not. Interesting that the
same concerns are very applicable to current automotive systems.
philosophy according to Ken...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Landing gear electric actuator circuit |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
Given the aerodynamics today, why bother with folding gear? Good wheel
pants and gear fairings today have the speed penalty down to around 5
kts at typical general aviation speeds. I had a Mooney that would do
150-155kts on 10 gph. I now fly an RV-10 with fixed gear that does the
same speed on the same fuel flow (and faster if I want to burn more
fuel). It has bigger fuselage/cabin and same number of seats and useful
load as the Mooney, with bigger engine..so not truly apples to apples.
Just the speed gains may not be worth the cost/risk. JMHO after 18 yrs
of flying retractable, without a mishap...other than the gear mechanism
failing on different brand, but managed to still land it on the wheels.
On 3/4/2019 7:24 PM, C&K wrote:
>> Le 04/03/2019 19:22, user9253 a crit:
>>> How about a circuit that will automatically extend the gear?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | A R Goldman <argoldman(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing gear electric actuator circuit |
The Bellanca super Viking also had a mechanism called auto-axion which would lower
the gear when the airspeed dropped. Below 90 mph. It worked well and only
became a problem when practicing stalls. We would, from my memory, jjust pull
the breaker to defeat it. It was a simple pitot pressure activated switch. The
arrow was more complex and had its own pitot tube mounted near the pilots window.
As mentioned before it was less than successful. The bellanca system, on
the other hand , was successful.
We of the canard persuasion do have an option of automatic nose gear extension
based on pitot pressure. It contains some logic to enable defeat when desired.
The main problem I see with any auto system is that a pilot may become less than
diligent and rely on the security of the automation
Rich
Sent from my iPhone
> On Mar 4, 2019, at 7:08 PM, GTH wrote:
>
> time
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Insulator in durable gas tight compression |
At 11:48 AM 3/4/2019, you wrote:
>Tasker
>
>I believe you are asking is it okay to use some
>sort of laminate in the stack-up of layers
>wherein the goal is to have something to mount
>the connection to and insulate it from your
>airplane sheet metal and that will not affect
>the "gas-tightness" of the connection.
>
>If that is the question, I believe that the
>answer would be that there are very few
>materials that would allow that.=C2 Ceramic would
>work, but that is hared to work with.=C2 Any
>plastic type material probably is too soft to
>not allow some relaxation over time of the joint.
Great catch Dick . . . I had a totally
different image for his question!
Yes, the way to achieve the ultimate
gas-tight connection between two
conductors is to mash them together
with enough force that the two metals
deform to conform with each other.
Obviously, limits to force that can be
applied are influenced by the relative
hardness of materials involved in the
force column. Too hard won't mash; too soft
(like an intermediate layer of non-conductor)
and the important materials (conductors) don't
mash and retain their intimate contact over
time.
One or more OBAM aircraft feature composite
firewall structures. To install a high
integrity firewall ground . . .
https://tinyurl.com/y4x3k24g
. . . we included a stack of washers(4)
from which the installer might craft a
HARD spacer between the forward and
aft bus bars. This feature prevented
crushing the firewall composite matrix
such that gas-tight integrity of the
electrical connections was compromised.
Having said that, one might appropriately
question the design of Carling switches
(and others) that place insulating
materials in the force-column that joins
electrical conductors of their products.
https://tinyurl.com/8cm52v
This is one (of no doubt many) instances
where the designers have selected their
non-conducting housing materials carefully
to minimize effects on manufactured
joints in the conductor pathways.
Ideal? Perhaps not. Failure proof? We
seen some failures . . . precipitated
by heating events OUTSIDE the force
column that degraded the plastic
and destroyed integrity of the
otherwise dependable joints.
Hundreds of thousands of these
switches have met design goals in
tens of thousands of TC aircraft
for decades.
So the short answer is, yeah you can
do it . . . others have done it . . .
but with well considered properties
of materials.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: B&C Alternator and Voltage Regulator |
| From: | "popo123" <kumarpuneetsunny1234(at)gmail.com> |
window 10 is one of the most used operating system in the world.if you want to
use other PC and It has password protected. you can visit here
https://removepasswordwindows10.xyz/ and learn how to remove password in windows
10
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487959#487959
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Landing gear electric actuator circuit |
| From: | "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com> |
Below is a circuit to lower or raise a landing gear or to control the direction
of any small PM DC motor.
The toggle switch controls the motor direction of rotation.
The relay turns the motor on and off.
The limit switches open the relay circuit at end of travel, thus stopping the motor.
Diodes across limit switches allow the current to reverse direction when a limit
switch is open.
On the right side, there is an optional emergency switch to lower the gear.
Back to back zener diodes across the relay coil limit inductive voltage spikes.
Disclaimer: The circuit has not yet been proven to work.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487972#487972
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/long_ez_gear_423.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing gear electric actuator circuit |
At 08:50 AM 3/8/2019, you wrote:
>
>Below is a circuit to lower or raise a landing gear or to control
>the direction of any small PM DC motor.
>The toggle switch controls the motor direction of rotation.
>The relay turns the motor on and off.
>The limit switches open the relay circuit at end of travel, thus
>stopping the motor.
>Diodes across limit switches allow the current to reverse direction
>when a limit switch is open.
>On the right side, there is an optional emergency switch to lower the gear.
>Back to back zener diodes across the relay coil limit inductive
>voltage spikes.
>Disclaimer: The circuit has not yet been proven to work.
This configuration does not place a hard
short across the motor in the de-energized
condition. This may not be important if
stored kinetic energy on the motor does not
produce an unsatisfactory over-shoot.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Landing gear electric actuator circuit |
| From: | "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com> |
How about this?
Is the purpose of shorting the motor to bring it to stop it quicker?
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487975#487975
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/long_ez_gear_d_919.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing gear electric actuator circuit |
>
>Disclaimer: The circuit has not yet been proven to work.
This configuration does not place a hard
short across the motor in the de-energized
condition. This may not be important if
stored kinetic energy on the motor does not
produce an unsatisfactory over-shoot.
This is the advantage of using the spdt
relays to control motor power and
controlling relays through the panel
and limit switches.
http://www.aeroelectric.com/PPS/Flight/Flaps/Flaps_4.pdf
Emacs!
When the energized power relay relaxes,
it throws a dead short on the PM motor.
Back EMF generated in the motor produces
a significant retarding force to the
motor armature.
The nice thing about this configuration
is that dynamic braking occurs whether
motion command is removed by the panel
control switch -OR- a limit switch.
I've been pondering the notion of adding
a 'back up' circuit to supply down-stroke
power to the motor.
Every gear extension system I've encountered
on TC aircraft had a back-up . . . but in
EVERY case, the back-up mechanism was
NON-electric. Some were quite simple and
convenient (Beech Sierra - open valve
in front of pilot's seat. Gear falls and
locks). Some were not so convenient (Beech
Bonanza - Slide pilot's seat all the way
back, passenger seat all the way forward.
Fly left handed while opening door under
passenger seat. Extend handle and put
some rotations on the crank until 'three
greens' are showing. I think it took over
100 revolutions).
The important feature is that normal and
emergency extension systems do not share
any required commodity . . . like electricity.
The gear was MOST likely to fail do to
loss of motor . . . except in the Bonanza
which had a dynamic braking control contactor
with a rather Rube-Goldbergish design.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing gear electric actuator circuit |
At 01:19 PM 3/8/2019, you wrote:
>
>How about this?
>Is the purpose of shorting the motor to bring it to stop it quicker?
>
>--------
>Joe Gores
>
>Attachments:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com//files/long_ez_gear_d_919.jpg
>
Not bad! The only downside I see here
is that the crew control switch carries
motor current . . . which is not a
horrible thing to contemplate.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing gear electric actuator circuit |
At 06:55 PM 3/8/2019, you wrote:
>At 01:19 PM 3/8/2019, you wrote:
>>
>>How about this?
>>Is the purpose of shorting the motor to bring it to stop it quicker?
>>
>>--------
>>Joe Gores
>>
>>Attachments:
>>
>>http://forums.matronics.com//files/long_ez_gear_d_919.jpg
>
> Not bad! The only downside I see here
> is that the crew control switch carries
> motor current . . . which is not a
> horrible thing to contemplate.
On further contemplation, your
suggested circuit seems quite
practical. Lower parts count and
yes, motor current runs through
the panel switch but I suspect that
most if not all of the switch bounce
will have died out before the relay
'makes' . . . wear-n-tear on switch
is minimized.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Landing gear electric actuator circuit |
| From: | "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com> |
Thanks Bob
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487987#487987
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Buy Discount adidas Yeezy Powerphase on 2019mensjordans.com |
| From: | "blair2019" <stevenrowe98(at)gmail.com> |
Adidas Sneakers (https://www.2019sneakersrelease.com/product-category/adidas-sneakers/) With the new products of the Yeezy Boost 350 V2, Yeezy 500 and Yeezy Boost 700, many people have forgotten the existence of adidas Yeezy Powerphase, another member of the Yeezy series. After the pure black color matching, after a lapse of nearly a year, it finally ushered in two new pairs of color matching. The sneakerpolitics sneakerpolitics took the lead in bringing the physical details of these two pairs of shoes. Both colors are presented in a light-colored style, with one pair of pure white as the main tone and the other pair being the creamy white tone, which is very similar to the first color. It is worth noting that the new product is different in design details from the previous three pairs of color matching. The CALABASAS lettering on the upper is removed and the POWERPHASE is printed. Throughout the Yeezy series, Powerphase is the best pair to buy, with a good quality and low-key versatility, creating a retro street style that is different from the rest of the Yeezy collection, and is definitely a niche item with a very high price/performance ratio.
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With the strong appeal of Air Jordan 1 in the sneakers in recent years, Jordans 2019 Shoes (https://www.jordans2019shoes.com) is also based on the classic style, with more changes, the new and exciting new weaving products will be released in the near future! From the current release of the picture, based on the black and white Air Jordan 1 model, the body is made of soft lychee. The biggest difference is that the sides of the shoe are interlaced with the leather by the webbing, as if adding an additional layer of armor, completely subverting our inherent impression of the Air Jordan 1. The shoelace system also runs through the structure and adds text to the inside of the shoe. The tongue is decorated with leather accents, and is marked with the words LIFT TO CUSTOMIZE. Finally, it is finished with a pure white outsole, and the overall visual performance is different and avant-garde.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=487993#487993
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GTH <gilles.thesee(at)free.fr> |
| Subject: | Access to PA28 panel ? |
Hi all,
An old buddy just contacted me for the installation of a Garmin GNS 430
in his old Piper PA28 Arrow II.
He is taking charge of the paperwork.
I just saw the aircraft, and the panel is a collection of antiques,
KX155 and Narco MK 12D, Bendix ADF-T12D, DME, ILS indicator, the lot.
Some of those items will have to make place for the GNS 430, which I
know how to install, contrary to the peculiarities of the rest of the
old stuff.
The wiring is a mess and I suspect I'll have a hard time sorting wires out.
Here is my questions :
Does any gentleman here have any suggestions as to what would be the
best way of accessing the rear of the panel ?
Is it conceivable to remove the whole panel, rewire it on the workbench
and then put it back into the ship ?
Thanks for any input,
--
Best regards,
Gilles
http://contrails.free.fr
http://lapierre.skunkworks.free.fr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alec Myers <alec(at)alecmyers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Access to PA28 panel ? |
Typically one would make up a wiring loom for all the interconnected units and
indicators, and install the loom behind the trays, then slide the units back into
the trays. Some connections can be left until the loom is installed (to the
audio panel, for example.)
A lot depends on how you want to install the GPS. What are you going to use as
an indicator?
Is it an IFR installation? You will likely need sign-off from an avionics shop
if so.
It can be a *VAST* project to integrate a GPS into an existing panel (Ive done
it) - tens or hundreds of hours of work to sort out the installed wiring, remove
whats not needed, and add what is.
to install a relay box with
On Mar 10, 2019, at 4:00 PM, GTH wrote:
Hi all,
An old buddy just contacted me for the installation of a Garmin GNS 430 in his
old Piper PA28 Arrow II.
He is taking charge of the paperwork.
I just saw the aircraft, and the panel is a collection of antiques, KX155 and Narco
MK 12D, Bendix ADF-T12D, DME, ILS indicator, the lot.
Some of those items will have to make place for the GNS 430, which I know how to
install, contrary to the peculiarities of the rest of the old stuff.
The wiring is a mess and I suspect I'll have a hard time sorting wires out.
Here is my questions :
Does any gentleman here have any suggestions as to what would be the best way of
accessing the rear of the panel ?
Is it conceivable to remove the whole panel, rewire it on the workbench and then
put it back into the ship ?
Thanks for any input,
--
Best regards,
Gilles
http://contrails.free.fr
http://lapierre.skunkworks.free.fr
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Landing gear electric actuator circuit |
| From: | "jdubner" <jdubner(at)yahoo.com> |
> This configuration does not place a hard
> short across the motor in the de-energized
> condition. This may not be important if
> stored kinetic energy on the motor does not
> produce an unsatisfactory over-shoot.
I am the OP but have lost track of where we are with all the thread drift. However,
for me it is important NOT have a short across the motor when de-energized.
There are two reasons why: with a short there is some back EMF and it contributes
to additional force required to mechanically drive the motor by a mechanical
means. (There is a 5/16" hex drive that can be turned with a ratchet.) It
changes it from just "very difficult" to "impossible", at least in my aircraft.
And with a short across the motor I cannot connect a power source (through a switch)
directly to the motor to lower the gear. And that is why I am not happy
with the circuit in my original posting.
I've devised an H-bridge circuit with four SPST (or two DPST) relays that does
not leave a short across the motor and does not require the switch to handle motor
currents (which I've measured at 6 to over 10A (depending on load).
I hope to breadboard the H-bridge version sometime this week using four Omron G8V-1C17T-R-DC12
I have on hand. It's relatively small compared to the Bosch-style
relay and has a resistor built in across the coil for arc-suppression.
--------
RV-8A
Independence, OR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=488005#488005
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing gear electric actuator circuit |
At 08:51 PM 3/10/2019, you wrote:
>I am the OP but have lost track of where we are with all the thread
>drift. However, for me it is important NOT have a short across
>the motor when de-energized.
Not sure there was 'drift' so much as
a cooperative sifting of options. I'm
assuming that operating this particular
system without dynamic braking has a
demonstrated track record of satisfactory
operation and service life? I.e. dynamic
braking was shown to be of no value in
meeting design goals?
>
>
>There are two reasons why: with a short there is some back EMF and
>it contributes to additional force required to mechanically drive
>the motor by a mechanical means. (There is a 5/16" hex drive that
>can be turned with a ratchet.) It changes it from just "very
>difficult" to "impossible", at least in my aircraft.
Yup, did an actuator controller a couple
years ago wherein dynamic braking was necessary
but needed to 'go away' for manual actuation
by hand-crank. That's a pretty easy thing to
do which I can illustrate if you're interested.
>And with a short across the motor I cannot connect a power source
>(through a switch) directly to the motor to lower the gear. And
>that is why I am not happy with the circuit in my original posting.
Electrical failures of a robust design in
this situation will be very rare. Your
system operates say 20 seconds per
flight cycle? 100 flights a year is 2000
seconds or just over 1/2 hour.
Actuation systems in aircraft a generally
qualified at full load and environmental
extremes for thousands of cycles. This
system in your aircraft won't even be
broken in by the time the aircraft is
scrapped.
You have a mechanical backup for the electrical
system so going the extra electrical backup
system seems more a lack of confidence
in the primary system configuration than
a real hedge against a gear-up landing.
>I've devised an H-bridge circuit with four SPST (or two DPST) relays
>that does not leave a short across the motor and does not require
>the switch to handle motor currents (which I've measured at 6 to
>over 10A (depending on load).
The greatest stress on controls in PM motor
systems isn't the maximum operating draw.
It's INRUSH current over the duration of
contact bounce during closure. While the
motor is spinning up, current through the
circuit may be 3-10 times the running
current. If a contact bounces 5-10 times,
then wear-and-tear on contacts is more
a function of inrush characteristics and
switch mechanics than anything to do with
flight cycles and running current.
>I hope to breadboard the H-bridge version sometime this week using
>four Omron G8V-1C17T-R-DC12 I have on hand. It's relatively small
>compared to the Bosch-style relay and has a resistor built in across
>the coil for arc-suppression.
Will be interested to see your next iteration . . .
in the mean time, I'll see if I can dig up
the notes on the selective dynamic braking
design.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing gear electric actuator circuit |
> Will be interested to see your next iteration . . .
> in the mean time, I'll see if I can dig up
> the notes on the selective dynamic braking
> design.
Found the files. Here's an AeroElectric
Connection drawing that adapts the idea
from that program to a page-per-system
file . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com/PPS/Landing_Gear/Canard%20Pusher%20Gear.pdf
The dynamic braking path is asserted only
while the gear select switch is in a
gear-up or gear-down position. When operating
the gear, the pilot would not release the
switch until the expected limit light
illuminates. During the reaction time from first
light to pilot release of the switch, the
gear system would be brought to a rapid
halt through the selective dynamic braking
relay.
Once the pilot is satisfied with gear
position, the switch is released which
also drops the dynamic braking relay.
Hence, during power failure or failure of
electrical controls, there will be no
impediment to using a manual, hand-crank
feature to lower the gear.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Landing gear electric actuator circuit |
| From: | "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com> |
Would this circuit work? The intent is to slow the motor quickly until the
induced voltage drops below zener voltage. The motor would then coast until
stopped. It should be easy to turn the motor slowly by hand. A resistor could
be connected in parallel with the two zener diodes.
I do not know if it will work, just asking.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=488012#488012
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/nose_gear_joe_8_137.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: List subscription problems? |
| From: | GTH <gilles.thesee(at)free.fr> |
/Le 26/02/2019 21:09, Robert L. Nuckolls, III a crit:
/
> /
> List being 'dropped' for reasons unknown.
> / /
> ....
> / /
> Has anyone else experienced this difficulty? /
Been dropped on march 5th.
It seems my messages are getting through, though.
Contacted Matt 24h ago, awaiting news.
--
Best regards,
Gilles
http://contrails.free.fr
http://lapierre.skunkworks.free.fr
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: List subscription problems?] |
| From: | GTH <gilles.thesee(at)free.fr> |
/Le 26/02/2019 21:09, Robert L. Nuckolls, III a crit:
/
> /
> In each case, the victim was able to renew
> their membership through the /subscribe page
> on matronics.com
> / /
> Has anyone else experienced this difficulty?
> /
Hello all,
This is a test message.
--
Best regards,
Gilles
http://contrails.free.fr
http://lapierre.skunkworks.free.fr
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Landing gear electric actuator circuit |
| From: | "jdubner" <jdubner(at)yahoo.com> |
nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect wrote:
> At 08:51 PM 3/10/2019, you wrote:
>
> > drift. However, for me it is important NOT have a short across
> > the motor when de-energized.
>
> Not sure there was 'drift' so much as a cooperative sifting of options.
You're very charitable, Bob -- I'm totally adrift. There are three separate postings
with suggestions ranging from quite useful to eliminating the retractable
gear so we'll have to agree to disagree on this.
I'll try to streamline this by listing my constraints and criteria.
1. A mechanical backup would be preferable but is not feasible on this particular
Long-EZ. This is because the mechanical drive would need to be located on
the center of the instrument panel where the EFIS goes and it would be exceedingly
difficult to activate.
2. For backup gear lowering only (not raising) I've decided to connect a power
source through a backup gear down switch directly to the motor. No relays, no
limit switches, different wires and connections. Same motor, same or different
power source (T.B.D. but wired to the battery bus). The motor probably won't
fail in my lifetime but the relays, microswitches, and wiring are a different
situation.
3. I don't need or want back EMF helping to hold the gear up or down. I know
this because I can bounce up and down on the landing gear and it won't budge with
or without a short across the motor. But I absolutely, positively must have
no short across the motor to implement #2 above.
--
Joe
--------
RV-8A
Independence, OR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=488019#488019
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "H. Ivan Haecker" <hivanhaecker(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Total Loss Electrical System |
I am currently converting an aircraft that has no electrical system
whatsoever to a toal loss system (no alternator) with a battery that is
used for starting only..My question is as follows: For starting only, do I
just need a starter contactor wired directly to the battery with a fat wire
and a fused small wire for its coil connected to a momentary contact switch
on the panel? Is there any need for a master contactor? And if I later
decide to add a couple of small current drawing devices such as a hand-held
gps and an intercom, can they also be directly connected to the battery
with small fused wires? It seems that I would still want to avoid running a
master contactor due to its current draw. Thanks for any advice.
Ivan Haecker
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Total Loss Electrical System |
| From: | Ken <yellowduckduo(at)gmail.com> |
Ivan
Consider a manual battery switch that can be operated from the cockpit.
Does the same thing as a battery contactor but uses no current. Mount it
in the cockpit or use a mechanical link to it so it can be turned off
from within the cockpit. Here is an example
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Battery-Cut-Off-Disconnect-Kill-Switch-w-Removable-Key-Power-Cutoff-Anti-Theft-/192839346979
You don't mention the engine type. As long as you use a robust momentary
starter engage switch there is no need for a separate starter contactor
if using an automotive starter that has an integral solenoid and
contacts. Some antique starters without an internal solenoid would need
a starter contactor. I use a key switch rated for 25 amps as those
solenoids draw significant current. When the key is in my pocket I know
that no one is going to accdently hit the starter. A separate starter
contactor is advised if using a small light duty momentary start switch.
Ken
On 12-Mar-19 1:17 AM, H. Ivan Haecker wrote:
> I am currently converting an aircraft that has no electrical system
> whatsoever to a toal loss system (no alternator) with a battery that is
> used for starting only..My question is as follows: For starting only, do
> I just need a starter contactor wired directly to the battery with a fat
> wire and a fused small wire for its coil connected to a momentary
> contact switch on the panel? Is there any need for a master contactor?
> And if I later decide to add a couple of small current drawing devices
> such as a hand-held gps and an intercom, can they also be directly
> connected to the battery with small fused wires? It seems that I would
> still want to avoid running a master contactor due to its current draw.
> Thanks for any advice.
>
> Ivan Haecker
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Total Loss Electrical System |
| From: | "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com> |
Yes, your plan is OK.
B and C has a schematic without a master contactor for aerobatic aircraft.
https://bandc.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/420-506_revB_with_bom.pdf
A master contactor is useful for shutting of all electrical power in case of an
immanent forced landing to minimize the chances of sparks and fire. But if
there are only a few light loads protected by 3 amp fuses, hopefully those fuses
will quickly blow without arcing and sparking. ATC fuses are closed and might
contain sparks better than ATO fuses. The "C" stands for Closed and the "O"
stands for Open.
Another option besides a battery contactor or heavy duty manual switch is to
use either a solid state relay or small automotive relay for shutting off power
to
avionics only.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=488025#488025
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Total Loss Electrical System |
At 12:17 AM 3/12/2019, you wrote:
>I am currently converting an aircraft that has
>no electrical system whatsoever to a toal loss
>system (no alternator) with a battery that is
>used for starting only..My question is as
>follows: For starting only, do I just need a
>starter contactor wired directly to the battery
>with a fat wire and a fused small wire for its
>coil connected to a momentary contact switch on
>the panel? Is there any need for a master
>contactor? And if I later decide to add a couple
>of small current drawing devices such as a
>hand-held gps and an intercom, can they also be
>directly connected to the battery with small
>fused wires? It seems that I would still want to
>avoid running a master contactor due to its
>current draw. Thanks for any advice.
>
>Ivan Haecker=C2 =C2
Consider these options:
Emacs!
If your starter has a built in contactor/
solenoid (as most modern offers do), consider the
second drawing. If the starter has no
contactor with an alternative engagement
mechanism, then the first drawing is worth
consideration.
If you're planning on having the battery 'maintained'
between flights, it could be quite small assuming
it's capable of the necessary cranking currents.
What kind of engine are we talking about?
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "H. Ivan Haecker" <hivanhaecker(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Total Loss Electrical System |
The starter is a B&C for a C-85-12 Continental. The B&C kit came with a
starter contactor, but does have a jumper wire on the back of the starter.
The battery I chose is Shorai lithium/iron motorcycle type (LFX18L1-BS12)
with 18Ah. Note:preliminary tests show that it will spin the prop quite
rapidly! I do like the idea of a manual interuption of the battery ground
wire to disconnect the battery.
Ivan
On Tue, Mar 12, 2019 at 10:33 AM Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
> At 12:17 AM 3/12/2019, you wrote:
>
> I am currently converting an aircraft that has no electrical system
> whatsoever to a toal loss system (no alternator) with a battery that is
> used for starting only..My question is as follows: For starting only, do
I
> just need a starter contactor wired directly to the battery with a fat wi
re
> and a fused small wire for its coil connected to a momentary contact swit
ch
> on the panel? Is there any need for a master contactor? And if I later
> decide to add a couple of small current drawing devices such as a hand-he
ld
> gps and an intercom, can they also be directly connected to the battery
> with small fused wires? It seems that I would still want to avoid running
a
> master contactor due to its current draw. Thanks for any advice.
>
> Ivan Haecker=C3=82 =C3=82
>
>
> Consider these options:
>
> [image: Emacs!]
>
> If your starter has a built in contactor/
> solenoid (as most modern offers do), consider the
> second drawing. If the starter has no
> contactor with an alternative engagement
> mechanism, then the first drawing is worth
> consideration.
>
> If you're planning on having the battery 'maintained'
> between flights, it could be quite small assuming
> it's capable of the necessary cranking currents.
> What kind of engine are we talking about?
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Total Loss Electrical System |
At 11:01 AM 3/12/2019, you wrote:
>The starter is a B&C for a C-85-12 Continental. The B&C kit came
>with a starter contactor, but does have a jumper wire on the back of
>the starter. The battery I chose is Shorai lithium/iron motorcycle
>type (LFX18L1-BS12) with 18Ah. Note:preliminary tests show that it
>will spin the prop quite rapidly! I do like the idea of a manual
>interuption of the battery ground wire to disconnect the battery.
Yes, that's probably the easiest legacy
engine to get started. The lithium battery
should do the job. A battery switch wouldn't
hurt anything . . . but as long as you
keep the battery 'maintained', likelihood
of contactor welding is nil.
You could use either of the wiring diagrams
I posted. If you use the external contactor,
then you'll need to add the jumper wire from
"main" to "S" terminals on the starter
engagement solenoid/contactor.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linda Walker <l.p(at)talk21.com> |
| Subject: | Landing light actuation |
Dear All.
I am trying to work out a wiring diagram for a retractable landing/taxi light using
a small Firgelli 12v actuator and would welcome sensible suggestions.
I wish to use a 2-10 switch for the OFF-LANDING-TAXI control.
If OFF and TAXI are at either end of actuator range, then these can use its internal
limit switches.
The issue is stopping and restarting the actuator at/from the intermediate LANDING
position in either direction.
How is it best to wire up for this?
Should a micro-switch be used here and if so exactly how is the complete wiring
system accomplished, diagrams if possible please?
I should add here that I have tried a linear actuator with internal position feedback
and an actuator controller, utilising a variable resistor/potentiometer
for the intermediate stop, without great success.
A second issue might be how to utilise the same switch to also control the illumination
of the light in both LANDING and TAXI positions, but obviously for it
to be off at OFF.
Any help and simple solutions for this would be very welcome.
I would appreciate any help and guidance with diagrams that could be shared.
Patrick Elliott
Long-EZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ernest Christley <echristley(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Total Loss Electrical System |
One thing you don't want to experiment with is shorting that lithium batte
ry to ground.=C2- Lead-acid battery will spark and make you jump.=C2- T
he lithium batteries....good God....just don't do that.=C2- The welding c
apability is amazing.
ker(at)gmail.com> wrote:
The starter is a B&C for a C-85-12 Continental. The B&C kit came with a st
arter contactor, but does have a jumper wire on the back of the starter. Th
e battery I chose is Shorai lithium/iron motorcycle type (LFX18L1-BS12) wit
h 18Ah. Note:preliminary tests show that it will spin the prop quite rapidl
y! I do like the idea of a manual interuption of the battery ground wire to
disconnect the battery.
Ivan
On Tue, Mar 12, 2019 at 10:33 AM Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob@aero
electric.com> wrote:
At 12:17 AM 3/12/2019, you wrote:
I am currently converting anaircraft that has no electrical system whatsoev
er to a toal loss system(no alternator) with a battery that is used for sta
rting only..Myquestion is as follows: For starting only, do I just need a s
tartercontactor wired directly to the battery with a fat wire and a fused s
mallwire for its coil connected to a momentary contact switch on the panel?
Is there any need for a master contactor? And if I later decide to add acou
ple of small current drawing devices such as a hand-held gps and anintercom
, can they also be directly connected to the battery with smallfused wires?
It seems that I would still want to avoid running a mastercontactor due to
its current draw. Thanks for any advice.
Ivan Haecker=C3=82 =C3=82
=C2- Consider these options:
=C2- If your starter has a built in contactor/
=C2- solenoid (as most modern offers do), consider the
=C2- second drawing.=C2- If the starter has no
=C2- contactor with an alternative engagement
=C2- mechanism, then the first drawing is worth
=C2- consideration.
=C2- If you're planning on having the battery 'maintained'
=C2- between flights, it could be quite small assuming
=C2- it's capable of the necessary cranking currents.
=C2- What kind of engine are we talking about?
=C2- Bob . . .
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Total Loss Electrical System |
At 11:55 AM 3/12/2019, you wrote:
>At 11:01 AM 3/12/2019, you wrote:
>>The starter is a B&C for a C-85-12 Continental. The B&C kit came
>>with a starter contactor, but does have a jumper wire on the back
>>of the starter. The battery I chose is Shorai lithium/iron
>>motorcycle type (LFX18L1-BS12) with 18Ah. Note:preliminary tests
>>show that it will spin the prop quite rapidly! I do like the idea
>>of a manual interuption of the battery ground wire to disconnect the battery.
Do you plan on any other electro-whizzies
in the airplane or just the starter?
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Single cell charge/testing hack |
My rooftop weather station started running out
of battery snort (shortened and cloudy days
reduces effectiveness of solar maintainer).
Decided to replace the cell but wanted to install
it with 100% charge (4.1v open circuit).
It's an odd size cell (CR123A) for which I
don't have a holder. Some years ago I began
"putting the squeeze" on certain cylindrical
cells to either charge or test said cells:
Emacs!
Here you see the cell captured between the jaws
of my little bench vise but with a piece of
RESILIENT insulating 'pad' at the (-) end
of the cell. This avoids shorting the cell and
mitigates crush forces. The frame of the vise
becomes the (+) terminal, the wire captured
under the bottom of the cell on top of
the pad is the (-) connection.
Hooking it to a bench supply set for 4.1v
and 0.050a gives me a constant current/constant
voltage source with which to top off the cell.
Here we see that the cell has reached 4.1v
and the charge current has begun to drop.
I'll leave it hooked up until the current
drops to 5mA or so.
This same rig can be used to grab a single-cell
for discharge tests. This technique precludes
having to acquire and maintain a stable of odd
cell holders for simple maintenance tasks.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "H. Ivan Haecker" <hivanhaecker(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Total Loss Electrical System |
I may want to run a hand-held gps or an I-pad. And an intercom for the
occasional passenger. Thje plane is mainly used for local low and slow joy
riding. And have no fear Ernest. I have no intension of exploring the
welding capacity of that battery, especially when installed in my airplane!
Ivan
On Tue, Mar 12, 2019 at 1:15 PM Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
> At 11:55 AM 3/12/2019, you wrote:
>
> At 11:01 AM 3/12/2019, you wrote:
>
> The starter is a B&C for a C-85-12 Continental. The B&C kit came with a
> starter contactor, but does have a jumper wire on the back of the starter.
> The battery I chose is Shorai lithium/iron motorcycle type (LFX18L1-BS12)
> with 18Ah. Note:preliminary tests show that it will spin the prop quite
> rapidly! I do like the idea of a manual interuption of the battery ground
> wire to disconnect the battery.
>
>
> Do you plan on any other electro-whizzies
> in the airplane or just the starter?
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Total Loss Electrical System |
At 01:25 PM 3/12/2019, you wrote:
>I may want to run a hand-held gps or an I-pad.
>And an intercom for the occasional passenger.
>Thje plane is mainly used for local low and slow
>joy riding. And have no fear Ernest. I have no
>intension of exploring the welding capacity of
>that battery, especially when installed in my airplane!=C2
Okay, bring power to those devices
through an in-line fuse right at the
hot side of the starter contactor.
No other switching necessary . . .
no bus structure.
Starting the engine takes but a few
percent off the battery. Running a
few mini electro-whizzies for the
duration of the flight is trivial.
Wouldn't make this any more complicated
than it needs to be . . .
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Kelly" <amsk22(at)gmail.com> |
Can someone with more knowledge than me on the subject, tell me the difference
between a series wound motor and a PM motor. Also, does the series wound have
more torque. Is it more durable.
I have a Skytech PM on my O-320 thats getting a little sluggish on the initial
turn of the prop. While I'm aware that there may be other causes, confidence
that my engine will start reliably is important.
I have heard good things about B&Cs starters. While they're more expensive,
I guess you get what you pay for.
Steve
--------
Steve
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=488049#488049
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Three Questions on Z-07 |
| From: | "markfw" <markwheelermd(at)icloud.com> |
I am building an electrically dependent LSA Carbon Cub. I will be using the SDS
EFI system. I am currently planning to use Z-07 as the basis for my electrical
system architecture.
I have three questions:
1. Using Z-07 as drawn my Endurance Bus (E-Bus) load is only 4.0 amps, due to high
efficiency avionics, and my MOTIVE Power Distribution Bus (MPDB) load is 14
amps due to the EFI. In an alternator-out situation if I run the MPDB on one
battery and the E-Bus on the other, wouldnt I be wasting some of the E-Bus battery
since its load is so much less than the load on the MPDB? Assuming that
I want to keep the batteries the same size, would it be better to merge the MPDB
and the E-Bus, keeping all connections the same? In the alternator-out scenario
I would then shut down my MAIN Power Distribution Bus to shed load and drive
the E-Bus with both batteries, perhaps through a single relay.
In an earlier e-mail Bob said
> During that discussion, we concocted the idea
> of an ENDURANCE bus to (1) power a
> minimally useful equipment list, (2) power
> additional items easily turned off to shed
> load and (3) have a battery energy path
> around a de-energized battery contactor.
Essentially it seems to me that with an EFI the whole MPDB could be treated as
part of the E-Bus. I realize that I may be missing something here.
2. I have been looking at using a pair of EarthX ETX680 (PC680-equivalent) LiFePO4
batteries since they have a BMS that will post info to my GRT EFIS about their
condition. I would like to use both batteries for starting as in Z-07. I
have read that people like to separate their avionics bus from the starting battery
because of a potential voltage drop during starting. However, the BMS on
the EarthX batteries takes their output to zero if it drops below either 12.8v
or 11.5v (both are stated in their on-line documentation). Since the EarthX
batteries can demonstrably start Lycoming 4 cylinder engines without dropping
off line, does this in fact imply that there is not a voltage drop below 11.5v
on starting with them? Is this a difference between LiFePO4 batteries and lead
acid batteries?
3. Can someone tell me what the DSS2XC61-01A is? Is it a diode?
Thanks.
Mark[/quote]
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=488059#488059
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Three Questions on Z-07 |
| From: | John Morgensen <john(at)morgensen.com> |
I have a couple of years experience with the EarthX batteries and I have
some positive comments:
1. The voltage should not drop during the engine start unless there
is a dead stall.
2. In a single battery installation, the battery is sized to the
alternator output. A 70 amp alternator should have an EarthX900. I would
ask EarthX about 2 batteries.
3. I almost tested the BMS by leaving some electronics on for 2 days.
The voltage dropped to just under 12 volts and it still had no trouble
starting the engine. However, in that circumstance the battery absorbed
60+ amps for at least 15 minutes. No harm done but if it happens again I
will put it on the charger for a more leisurely charge rate.
john
On 3/13/2019 5:02 PM, markfw wrote:
>
> I am building an electrically dependent LSA Carbon Cub. I will be using the SDS
EFI system. I am currently planning to use Z-07 as the basis for my electrical
system architecture.
>
> I have three questions:
>
>
> 2. I have been looking at using a pair of EarthX ETX680 (PC680-equivalent) LiFePO4
batteries since they have a BMS that will post info to my GRT EFIS about
their condition. I would like to use both batteries for starting as in Z-07.
I have read that people like to separate their avionics bus from the starting
battery because of a potential voltage drop during starting. However, the BMS
on the EarthX batteries takes their output to zero if it drops below either 12.8v
or 11.5v (both are stated in their on-line documentation). Since the EarthX
batteries can demonstrably start Lycoming 4 cylinder engines without dropping
off line, does this in fact imply that there is not a voltage drop below 11.5v
on starting with them? Is this a difference between LiFePO4 batteries and lead
acid batteries?
>
>
> Mark[/quote]
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=488059#488059
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Three Questions on Z-07 |
| From: | "markfw" <markwheelermd(at)icloud.com> |
thank you John. Very useful information. I will talk to EarthX about dual batteries.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=488061#488061
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Three Questions on Z-07 |
| From: | "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com> |
Electronic parts frequently become obsolete and are replaced by improved versions.
Search Mouser for part number DSS2x61-01A.
At the expected engine load, the diode will drop about 0.7 volts or less and could
get hot consuming 10 watts of power.
Mount it to a heatsink using heat conductive paste.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=488065#488065
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Henador Titzoff <henador_titzoff(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Three Questions on Z-07 |
As Joe said, electronic parts frequently go obsolete; however, "improved ve
rsions" aren't always improved.=C2- That's one reason companies keep engi
neers and quality control people around.=C2- I remember once when Vishay
obsoleted a part and replaced it with another part.=C2- We looked at it a
nd finally told our Air Force customer that the replacement part wasn't exa
ctly an improved version.=C2- The Air Force talked to the Vishay manufact
uring engineer and got him to change the company's plans to obsolete the ca
pacitor.=C2- I wasn't sure what they said to him, but our defense departm
ent can pack a wallop, especially since Vishay was in Beersheba, Israel. I
went there once with the quality manager to inspect their processes and tha
t's when we got the real story.=C2- I can't say publicly what the reason
was, but it had something to do with shekels.=C2- I do remember three of
our engineers allowing a similar change without alerting our customer and w
orking with them to accommodate it.=C2- When the AF found out, it wasn't
long before they were walked out the company door and possibly ostracized a
t other defense department contractors.=C2- I haven't seen any of them si
nce except one, and he started a company pouring concrete in our booming lo
cal commercial and residential industry.=C2- It isn't exactly high tech,
but he's making the big pesos.
For this application, though, Joe is correct in all statements below.=C2-
I particularly like the heat sink/conductive paste statement as temperatur
e beyond rating is a killer on electronics.=C2- I see heat sinks used wid
ely in today's products, especially since miniaturization has become the no
rm, but power dissipation (not consumption) remains high.
Henador Titzoff
com> wrote:
Electronic parts frequently become obsolete and are replaced by improved ve
rsions.
Search Mouser for part number DSS2x61-01A.
At the expected engine load, the diode will drop about 0.7 volts or less an
d could get hot consuming 10 watts of power.
Mount it to a heatsink using heat conductive paste.
--------
Joe Gores
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David <websurfshop(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Generator troubleshooting & repair |
I know this is off topic and not directly related to Aircraft electric but
you guys are so good I thought I would ask. Can anyone give me a learning
document/book on how generator heads work and how to troubleshoot them when
they stop producing power? When I take a generator head apart all the
windings look good I=99m just not sure how to troubleshoot the electr
ics to
determine what parts need replaced. I have gone through a half dozen small
generators and would like to give my kids an education in what to do with
it besides take the motor out and put it in a go cart.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
At 10:00 AM 3/13/2019, you wrote:
>
>Can someone with more knowledge than me on the subject, tell me the difference
>between a series wound motor and a PM motor.
That's a question with a really big answer.
It fills a couple of volumes. It all depends
on the application. Series wound motors for
engine cranking are falling in popularity
for a host of interleaved trade-offs. Strong
influences on the shift to PM motors include
falling costs of rare earth magnets compared
to higher manufacturing costs for wound fields.
Wound field motors seem to find favor with
OEMs for diesel engines . . . a wound field
motor has a flatter speed torque curve
than PM motors under heavy load. They
generally outperform PM starters under
adverse conditions (cold, soggy battery,
high resistance in cranking loop).
Emacs!
The downside of series wound motors include
poor load-speed regulation; an unloaded
PM motor has a limit on unloaded RPM.
A series wound motor's unloaded speed
is limited only by friction in the motor's
construction. Some designs are at risk
for self destruction if operated no-load.
There are a dozen trade-offs for deciding
which configuration to adopt for any given
application. Neither configuration is
'superior' to the other over the full
spectrum of operating characteristics.
> Also, does the series wound have more torque.
Not 'more' but 'flatter' speed-torque
characteristics under heavy load . . .
> Is it more durable
Not necessarily. Durability has more to
do with design details and manufacturing
quality than with choice of motors.
>
> I have a Skytech PM on my O-320 thats getting a
>little sluggish on the initial turn of the prop.
>While I'm aware that there may be other causes,
>confidence that my engine will start reliably is important.
Motor condition is but one of several reasons
for sluggish performance. The weakest link
in cranking chain is battery condition.
Just for grins, jumper your car battery
to the ship's battery and see how the engine
cranks. If there is marked improvement,
consider load/capacity checking your battery.
A least likely reason for diminished
performance is an increased voltage
drop in cranking power loop.
Emacs!
It's expected that voltage available at the starter
motor is lower than battery voltage. Just how much
lower has an effect on cranking speed. I'd carefully
check out the cranking power loop, ESPECIALLY the
battery, before swapping out the starter.
> I have heard good things about B&Cs starters. While they're more
> expensive, I guess you get what you pay for.
There were a number of discussions about the
differences for B&C versus other players
circa 1996. Here's one thread
https://tinyurl.com/y38w4ksz
In 23 years since, the various players
have had ample opportunity to secure their
position in the market based on perceived
value and demonstrated track record. Further,
I'm certain that many of the points cited
in the thread are not longer valid . . .
companies have changed hands and
sales volumes have promoted better
manufacturing techniques.
I have no recent knowledge of player
performance in today's starter market.
But I can share that Robinson Helicopter
was quite pleased with the performance
and weight advantages of the B&C
starters. They would swap B&C starters
onto brand new engines fitted with
factory supplied starters.
B&C would receive boxes of Robinson
starters pulled off engines taken
down for overhaul and returned for reman. No
matter how beat up and dirty the starters
were on the outside, the wearing parts
inside looked like they could go another
2,000 hours on the airplane.
I have no foundation to assert that
the major players do not offer good
value . . . but yes, in a free-market
competition for customers, you generally
do get what you pay for.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Three Questions on Z-07 |
At 07:45 PM 3/13/2019, you wrote:
>
>thank you John. Very useful information. I will talk to EarthX about
>dual batteries.
>
Why dual batteries?
When the alternator quits, you have to budget
chemical energy on board to achieve design
goals for altenrator-out endurance.
The e-bus was crafted long before electrically
dependent engines were popular . . . it's
application was pretty narrowly focused on
running the minimum suite of electronics
to get you to intended destination with
no alternator. I.e. ELECTRICAL endurance
could easily outpace FUEL endurance.
Now, with a 14A running load for an engine,
you're probably not hoping for that kind
of electrical endurance. An 18A total
running load for 3+ hours is a pretty
fat battery in lead acid . . . but maybe,
just maybe achievable with a practical
weight/volume in lithium.
For all practical purposes, your alternator
out energy needs for engine and avionics
are the same . . . I think I'd concentrate
on achieving the total energy package
needed for what ever endurance number you
pick. If you can make it equal or greater
than fuel aboard, great. If not practical, then
KNOW what that endurance number is and
orchestrate your Plan-B operations to
fit within that limit.
Applying two batteries to separate
tasks is not very helpful to that
goal. An optimal two-battery configuration
would call for the avionics battery to
be about 1/3 the size of the engine
battery. I think it more practical to
treat the energy needs for flight as
a total package than as two separate
packages. Now, it MIGHT take two
batteries in parallel . . . that's
driven by the energy numbers and your
weight/volume/dollars limits.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Generator troubleshooting & repair |
| From: | "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com> |
I assume that you are talking about a home generator.
If your generator has brushes, they would be the most likely problem along with
slip rings or commutator.
Other than that, you could check continuity of windings. Google search "how to
repair a home generator".
https://www.motherearthnews.com/homesteading-and-livestock/home-generator-repair-zbcz1502
https://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/Generator-Repair-Help
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=488084#488084
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Three Questions on Z-07 |
At 07:35 AM 3/15/2019, you wrote:
>At 07:45 PM 3/13/2019, you wrote:
>>
>>thank you John. Very useful information. I will talk to EarthX
>>about dual batteries.
>
> Why dual batteries?
>
> When the alternator quits, you have to budget
> chemical energy on board to achieve design
> goals for altenrator-out endurance.
I'll have to dig back in the archives to
retrieve the conversations going on while
Z07 was being discussed. Note that the
drawing is watermarked 'Work in Progresss'.
Given the availability of high volume/energy
ratio of lithium batteries; I'm having trouble
justifying a Z07 architecture.
If anyone can champion the idea, I'd be
please to see their argument posted here
on the List . . . but at the present time,
I'm inclined to pull that drawing down.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Kelly <amsk22(at)gmail.com> |
Bob, Thank you for the reply. I will try to get out to the hanger early
next week and check the voltage readings. The battery is a PC680 at three
months old. Do you have a method you would suggest to do a load/capacity
check on it.
Steve
On Fri, Mar 15, 2019 at 8:27 AM Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
> At 10:00 AM 3/13/2019, you wrote:
>
>
> Can someone with more knowledge than me on the subject, tell me the
> difference
> between a series wound motor and a PM motor.
>
>
> That's a question with a really big answer.
> It fills a couple of volumes. It all depends
> on the application. Series wound motors for
> engine cranking are falling in popularity
> for a host of interleaved trade-offs. Strong
> influences on the shift to PM motors include
> falling costs of rare earth magnets compared
> to higher manufacturing costs for wound fields.
> Wound field motors seem to find favor with
> OEMs for diesel engines . . . a wound field
> motor has a flatter speed torque curve
> than PM motors under heavy load. They
> generally outperform PM starters under
> adverse conditions (cold, soggy battery,
> high resistance in cranking loop).
>
> [image: Emacs!]
> The downside of series wound motors include
> poor load-speed regulation; an unloaded
> PM motor has a limit on unloaded RPM.
> A series wound motor's unloaded speed
> is limited only by friction in the motor's
> construction. Some designs are at risk
> for self destruction if operated no-load.
>
> There are a dozen trade-offs for deciding
> which configuration to adopt for any given
> application. Neither configuration is
> 'superior' to the other over the full
> spectrum of operating characteristics.
>
> Also, does the series wound have more torque.
>
>
> Not 'more' but 'flatter' speed-torque
> characteristics under heavy load . . .
>
>
> Is it more durable
>
>
> Not necessarily. Durability has more to
> do with design details and manufacturing
> quality than with choice of motors.
>
>
> I have a Skytech PM on my O-320 thats getting a
> little sluggish on the initial turn of the prop.
> While I'm aware that there may be other causes,
> confidence that my engine will start reliably is important.
>
>
> Motor condition is but one of several reasons
> for sluggish performance. The weakest link
> in cranking chain is battery condition.
> Just for grins, jumper your car battery
> to the ship's battery and see how the engine
> cranks. If there is marked improvement,
> consider load/capacity checking your battery.
>
> A least likely reason for diminished
> performance is an increased voltage
> drop in cranking power loop.
>
> [image: Emacs!]
>
> It's expected that voltage available at the starter
> motor is lower than battery voltage. Just how much
> lower has an effect on cranking speed. I'd carefully
> check out the cranking power loop, ESPECIALLY the
> battery, before swapping out the starter.
>
> I have heard good things about B&Cs starters. While they're more
> expensive, I guess you get what you pay for.
>
>
> There were a number of discussions about the
> differences for B&C versus other players
> circa 1996. Here's one thread
>
> https://tinyurl.com/y38w4ksz
>
> In 23 years since, the various players
> have had ample opportunity to secure their
> position in the market based on perceived
> value and demonstrated track record. Further,
> I'm certain that many of the points cited
> in the thread are not longer valid . . .
> companies have changed hands and
> sales volumes have promoted better
> manufacturing techniques.
>
> I have no recent knowledge of player
> performance in today's starter market.
> But I can share that Robinson Helicopter
> was quite pleased with the performance
> and weight advantages of the B&C
> starters. They would swap B&C starters
> onto brand new engines fitted with
> factory supplied starters.
>
> B&C would receive boxes of Robinson
> starters pulled off engines taken
> down for overhaul and returned for reman. No
> matter how beat up and dirty the starters
> were on the outside, the wearing parts
> inside looked like they could go another
> 2,000 hours on the airplane.
>
> I have no foundation to assert that
> the major players do not offer good
> value . . . but yes, in a free-market
> competition for customers, you generally
> do get what you pay for.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | A R Goldman <argoldman(at)aol.com> |
While you are checking...check all of the cable connections for security and
corrosion
Rich
Sent from my iPhone
> On Mar 15, 2019, at 12:18 PM, Steve Kelly wrote:
>
> Bob, Thank you for the reply. I will try to get out to the hanger early n
ext week and check the voltage readings. The battery is a PC680 at three mo
nths old. Do you have a method you would suggest to do a load/capacity che
ck on it.
> Steve
>
>> On Fri, Mar 15, 2019 at 8:27 AM Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob@aer
oelectric.com> wrote:
>> At 10:00 AM 3/13/2019, you wrote:
>
>>>
>>> Can someone with more knowledge than me on the subject, tell me the diff
erence
>>> between a series wound motor and a PM motor.
>>
>> That's a question with a really big answer.
>> It fills a couple of volumes. It all depends
>> on the application. Series wound motors for
>> engine cranking are falling in popularity
>> for a host of interleaved trade-offs. Strong
>> influences on the shift to PM motors include
>> falling costs of rare earth magnets compared
>> to higher manufacturing costs for wound fields.
>> Wound field motors seem to find favor with
>> OEMs for diesel engines . . . a wound field
>> motor has a flatter speed torque curve
>> than PM motors under heavy load. They
>> generally outperform PM starters under
>> adverse conditions (cold, soggy battery,
>> high resistance in cranking loop).
>>
>>
>> The downside of series wound motors include
>> poor load-speed regulation; an unloaded
>> PM motor has a limit on unloaded RPM.
>> A series wound motor's unloaded speed
>> is limited only by friction in the motor's
>> construction. Some designs are at risk
>> for self destruction if operated no-load.
>>
>> There are a dozen trade-offs for deciding
>> which configuration to adopt for any given
>> application. Neither configuration is
>> 'superior' to the other over the full
>> spectrum of operating characteristics.
>>
>>> Also, does the series wound have more torque.
>>
>> Not 'more' but 'flatter' speed-torque
>> characteristics under heavy load . . .
>>
>>
>>> Is it more durable
>>
>> Not necessarily. Durability has more to
>> do with design details and manufacturing
>> quality than with choice of motors.
>>
>>>
>>> I have a Skytech PM on my O-320 thats getting a
>>> little sluggish on the initial turn of the prop.
>>> While I'm aware that there may be other causes,
>>> confidence that my engine will start reliably is important.
>>
>> Motor condition is but one of several reasons
>> for sluggish performance. The weakest link
>> in cranking chain is battery condition.
>> Just for grins, jumper your car battery
>> to the ship's battery and see how the engine
>> cranks. If there is marked improvement,
>> consider load/capacity checking your battery.
>>
>> A least likely reason for diminished
>> performance is an increased voltage
>> drop in cranking power loop.
>>
>>
>>
>> It's expected that voltage available at the starter
>> motor is lower than battery voltage. Just how much
>> lower has an effect on cranking speed. I'd carefully
>> check out the cranking power loop, ESPECIALLY the
>> battery, before swapping out the starter.
>>
>>> I have heard good things about B&Cs starters. While they're more expe
nsive, I guess you get what you pay for.
>>
>>
>> There were a number of discussions about the
>> differences for B&C versus other players
>> circa 1996. Here's one thread
>>
>> https://tinyurl.com/y38w4ksz
>>
>> In 23 years since, the various players
>> have had ample opportunity to secure their
>> position in the market based on perceived
>> value and demonstrated track record. Further,
>> I'm certain that many of the points cited
>> in the thread are not longer valid . . .
>> companies have changed hands and
>> sales volumes have promoted better
>> manufacturing techniques.
>>
>> I have no recent knowledge of player
>> performance in today's starter market.
>> But I can share that Robinson Helicopter
>> was quite pleased with the performance
>> and weight advantages of the B&C
>> starters. They would swap B&C starters
>> onto brand new engines fitted with
>> factory supplied starters.
>>
>> B&C would receive boxes of Robinson
>> starters pulled off engines taken
>> down for overhaul and returned for reman. No
>> matter how beat up and dirty the starters
>> were on the outside, the wearing parts
>> inside looked like they could go another
>> 2,000 hours on the airplane.
>>
>> I have no foundation to assert that
>> the major players do not offer good
>> value . . . but yes, in a free-market
>> competition for customers, you generally
>> do get what you pay for.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Three Questions on Z-07 |
| From: | "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com> |
I would leave that drawing available unless there is some unknown failure
mode. There are different strokes for different folks. Someone will have a
perceived need that Z-07 will fill.
I would like to see a very simple architecture without an endurance bus or
diodes. It would be designed with the low power requirements (
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=488093#488093
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sebastien <cluros(at)gmail.com> |
That is a very common battery, any battery store will test it for you.
On Fri, Mar 15, 2019, 13:31 Steve Kelly wrote:
> Bob, Thank you for the reply. I will try to get out to the hanger early
> next week and check the voltage readings. The battery is a PC680 at three
> months old. Do you have a method you would suggest to do a load/capacity
> check on it.
> Steve
>
> On Fri, Mar 15, 2019 at 8:27 AM Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
> nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
>
>> At 10:00 AM 3/13/2019, you wrote:
>>
>>
>> Can someone with more knowledge than me on the subject, tell me the
>> difference
>> between a series wound motor and a PM motor.
>>
>>
>> That's a question with a really big answer.
>> It fills a couple of volumes. It all depends
>> on the application. Series wound motors for
>> engine cranking are falling in popularity
>> for a host of interleaved trade-offs. Strong
>> influences on the shift to PM motors include
>> falling costs of rare earth magnets compared
>> to higher manufacturing costs for wound fields.
>> Wound field motors seem to find favor with
>> OEMs for diesel engines . . . a wound field
>> motor has a flatter speed torque curve
>> than PM motors under heavy load. They
>> generally outperform PM starters under
>> adverse conditions (cold, soggy battery,
>> high resistance in cranking loop).
>>
>> [image: Emacs!]
>> The downside of series wound motors include
>> poor load-speed regulation; an unloaded
>> PM motor has a limit on unloaded RPM.
>> A series wound motor's unloaded speed
>> is limited only by friction in the motor's
>> construction. Some designs are at risk
>> for self destruction if operated no-load.
>>
>> There are a dozen trade-offs for deciding
>> which configuration to adopt for any given
>> application. Neither configuration is
>> 'superior' to the other over the full
>> spectrum of operating characteristics.
>>
>> Also, does the series wound have more torque.
>>
>>
>> Not 'more' but 'flatter' speed-torque
>> characteristics under heavy load . . .
>>
>>
>> Is it more durable
>>
>>
>> Not necessarily. Durability has more to
>> do with design details and manufacturing
>> quality than with choice of motors.
>>
>>
>> I have a Skytech PM on my O-320 thats getting a
>> little sluggish on the initial turn of the prop.
>> While I'm aware that there may be other causes,
>> confidence that my engine will start reliably is important.
>>
>>
>> Motor condition is but one of several reasons
>> for sluggish performance. The weakest link
>> in cranking chain is battery condition.
>> Just for grins, jumper your car battery
>> to the ship's battery and see how the engine
>> cranks. If there is marked improvement,
>> consider load/capacity checking your battery.
>>
>> A least likely reason for diminished
>> performance is an increased voltage
>> drop in cranking power loop.
>>
>> [image: Emacs!]
>>
>> It's expected that voltage available at the starter
>> motor is lower than battery voltage. Just how much
>> lower has an effect on cranking speed. I'd carefully
>> check out the cranking power loop, ESPECIALLY the
>> battery, before swapping out the starter.
>>
>> I have heard good things about B&Cs starters. While they're more
>> expensive, I guess you get what you pay for.
>>
>>
>>
>> There were a number of discussions about the
>> differences for B&C versus other players
>> circa 1996. Here's one thread
>>
>> https://tinyurl.com/y38w4ksz
>>
>> In 23 years since, the various players
>> have had ample opportunity to secure their
>> position in the market based on perceived
>> value and demonstrated track record. Further,
>> I'm certain that many of the points cited
>> in the thread are not longer valid . . .
>> companies have changed hands and
>> sales volumes have promoted better
>> manufacturing techniques.
>>
>> I have no recent knowledge of player
>> performance in today's starter market.
>> But I can share that Robinson Helicopter
>> was quite pleased with the performance
>> and weight advantages of the B&C
>> starters. They would swap B&C starters
>> onto brand new engines fitted with
>> factory supplied starters.
>>
>> B&C would receive boxes of Robinson
>> starters pulled off engines taken
>> down for overhaul and returned for reman. No
>> matter how beat up and dirty the starters
>> were on the outside, the wearing parts
>> inside looked like they could go another
>> 2,000 hours on the airplane.
>>
>> I have no foundation to assert that
>> the major players do not offer good
>> value . . . but yes, in a free-market
>> competition for customers, you generally
>> do get what you pay for.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Bob . . .
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
Odyssey batteries are often prematurely aged by keeping on a battery
maintainer. If you contact Odyssey they can give you a rejuvenation
protocol to restore the battery to near full capacity. I'm at about 4
years on my Odyssey 925 in the Aridzona heat, and still working fine.
On 3/15/2019 12:15 PM, Sebastien wrote:
> That is a very common battery, any battery store will test it for you.
>
> On Fri, Mar 15, 2019, 13:31 Steve Kelly > wrote:
>
> Bob, Thank you for the reply. I will try to get out to the hanger
> early next week and check the voltage readings. The battery is a
> PC680 at three months old. Do you have a method you would suggest
> to do a load/capacity check on it.
> Steve
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
At 02:15 PM 3/15/2019, you wrote:
>That is a very common battery, any battery store will test it for you.
>
>On Fri, Mar 15, 2019, 13:31 Steve Kelly
><amsk22(at)gmail.com> wrote:
>Bob,=C2 Thank you for the reply.=C2 I will try to
>get out to the hanger early next week and check
>the voltage readings.=C2 The battery is a PC680
>at three months old.=C2 =C2 Do you have a method
>you would suggest to do a load/capacity check on it.
That's a pretty fresh battery . . . this suggests
the problem is elsewhere. However, in answer to
your testing questions, I'll suggest that
every owner of an aircraft should also own
something like this
https://tinyurl.com/yag4529y
This LOAD tester allows you to load the battery
to an output of 9 volts while waiting for the
15 second timer light to go out. Note the current
at the end of 15 seconds . . . it should be in
excess of 200A for small engines, 300A for larger
engines. This test confirms the battery's avbility
to grunt the extra-ordinary demands for cranking
the engine.
A CAPACITY test seeks to quantify the battery's
ENERGY content . . . which is entirely separate
from the capability to grunt a cranking load.
There are some rather small batteries that have
demonstrated the ability to crank a turbine
engine
https://tinyurl.com/yye6znqp
But this product wouldn't run the aircraft's
critical systems for very long after the
alternator quits. There are dozens of 'tiny'
products that offer a similar utility
https://tinyurl.com/y2hzkq9l
The way to cap check your battery is to set
up your panel to operate your Plan-B (alternator
out) electrical loads and monitor battery voltage
with a voltmeter. The time it takes to reduce
battery voltage to 10V (the lower limit for
your avionics to operate).
For example, a NEW PC680 has the following
ENERGY delivery capability.
Emacs!
Assume a 4A endurance load. The curves say you're
good to 3 hours. Here you have to tailor the question
to match your own endurance requirements. If one hour
meets your own Plan-B design goals, then according
to the chart, the new battery is good for about 10A.
Actually, you would want to rate the battery for about
8A given that maintenance protocols suggest replacing
the battery at 75% of new capacity.
Then there's the real-life test . . . turn on the
goodies, start the clock, watch the voltage, measure
the time then recharge the battery. If that time
is equal to or greater than your design goals, then
you're good to fly.
How old is your starter? It MIGHT be that brushes
and/or commutator are worn to the point of producing
degraded performance.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Three Questions on Z-07 |
At 01:52 PM 3/15/2019, you wrote:
>
>I would leave that drawing available unless there is some unknown failure
>mode. There are different strokes for different folks. Someone will have a
>perceived need that Z-07 will fill.
"Perception" is the key term here . . . where
I have to ask, what are the failure modes being
addressed and what are the numbers that support
the selection of hardware.
A finely tuned Z07 might call for a 24 a.h.
engine battery and a 10 a.h. device for
avionics. But to what end? BOTH batteries
are expected and maintained to meet the same
design endurance. What then is the value for
having two batteries versus one battery
with the same energy content?
I don't recall the discussions now that
prompted the Z07 explorations . . . but
I don't see that it makes sense now.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Three Questions on Z-07 |
The best reason I can think of to have two batteries is to get the engine
started if the primary battery doesn't get the job done, and you happen to
be on some remote Alaskan gravel bar. Many modern aircraft cannot be hand
propped.
On Sat, Mar 16, 2019 at 6:15 AM Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
> At 01:52 PM 3/15/2019, you wrote:
>
>
> I would leave that drawing available unless there is some unknown failure
> mode. There are different strokes for different folks. Someone will have
> a
> perceived need that Z-07 will fill.
>
>
> "Perception" is the key term here . . . where
> I have to ask, what are the failure modes being
> addressed and what are the numbers that support
> the selection of hardware.
>
> A finely tuned Z07 might call for a 24 a.h.
> engine battery and a 10 a.h. device for
> avionics. But to what end? BOTH batteries
> are expected and maintained to meet the same
> design endurance. What then is the value for
> having two batteries versus one battery
> with the same energy content?
>
> I don't recall the discussions now that
> prompted the Z07 explorations . . . but
> I don't see that it makes sense now.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Three Questions on Z-07 |
| From: | "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com> |
Sudden battery failure is rare, but it has happened . . . to me. My PC680
cranked the engine just fine. Then later, when I reduced throttle to land, the
EFIS rebooted. The EFIS did not have an internal backup battery at the time,
but now does. I sent the battery to Bob N. and he found a broken
internal weld. I still only have one battery not counting the backup batteries
inside of avionics.
Each builder will wire their airplane the way that they want to. All we can
do is educate them so that they can make informed decisions. A friend
installed an avionics switch in his panel. I told him that the need for that
switch is based on an old wives tale that has been handed down from
instructor to student. And I told him that switch makes his airplane less safe.
But I was only one person. Several others told my friend to install that
switch. So he did.
Some builders are willing to sacrifice money and performance for their
peace of mind. All we can do is look over their shoulder and point out
anything that is dangerous. If a builder wants to install two large
batteries, he will do it whether there is a Z figure for it or not.
Without guidance, his architecture could have a design flaw
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=488105#488105
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Buy Air Jordan 1 Crimson Tint on 2019mensjordans |
| From: | "blair2019" <stevenrowe98(at)gmail.com> |
After exposure,2019 Mens Jordans (https://www.2019mensjordans.com) will pay more attention. This pair of black jelly Jolly Air Jordan 1 is probably the next popular spot! The pink Air Jordan 1 is quite rare. In 2017, the airborne Air Jordan 1 Rust Pink was released at the Art Basel in Miami. It has already broken through the 2w yuan mark, and the new product that will be released soon will undoubtedly appear. More close to the people! The Air Jordan 1 Crimson Tint shoe scheme uses a black and red opaque color scheme. The large black lychee covers the body, and the toe, upper and outsole and Swoosh are pink. It is worth mentioning that this time I changed the pink color of the past, there are some jelly orange atmosphere, the effect of the foot is very refreshing, the eye-catching eye-catching dress can be described as men and women!
Last year adidas launched a series of super cost-effective old-fashioned shoes like Yung-1, Yung-96 and the girl-only Falcon. Recently, Falcon has another new fluorescent color exposure, which will be released next month. The adidas Falcon (https://www.2019mensjordans.com/product-category/adidas-falcon/) upper is spliced ??in shades of yellow, orange, pink and blue in a fluorescent hue. It is fresh and dazzling. The silver reflectors add to the eye-catching index of the shoes, and the tops are absolutely eye-catching.
The Air Max 720 series running shoes that were released in February this year can be regarded as the highest level of technology in Nike air cushion technology. The thickness is exaggerated to 38mm, which is the thickest in history. After a variety of color matching, Nike official website recently released a set of official maps of cool gray gradient color, let's take a look. The Nike Air Max 720 Cool Grey (https://www.2019mensjordans.com/product-category/nike-air-max-720/) upper is made of synthetic cotton, complemented by a unique embossed grain embellishment, with a gradient of wolf ash and dark grey, and the upper foot effect must be versatile. At the same time, in the middle of the outer side of the shoe body, the Mini Swoosh embellishment is added to the design, and the midsole is complemented by the iconic design of the Air Max 720. It is a good choice for everyday wear.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=488109#488109
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Battery Charger/Maintainers |
At 03:37 PM 3/15/2019, you wrote:
>
>Odyssey batteries are often prematurely aged by keeping on a battery
>maintainer. If you contact Odyssey they can give you a rejuvenation
>protocol to restore the battery to near full capacity.
Color me skeptical about battery failures
on "maintainers" . . .
There was some discussion flying around the
av-circles over 10 years ago wherein readers
reported that Odyssey 'banned' certain brands
of maintainers . . . Battery Tender included.
I was mystified by this. I had been using
Battery Tenders and Battery Minders on
lab batteries for years with no observable
problems . . . the point of a maintainer is
to boost the voltage on a fully charged
battery to some point just above it's
open circuit resting voltage. The rationale
says that one wants to transfer internal
parasitic discharge loads from the CHEMISTRY
to an EXTERNAL source.
My maintainers always sat at about 13.1 to
13.4 volts after their run-up during
charge.
Emacs!
Emacs!
During a battery failure investigation for Raytheon-
Beech, I had occasion to query a Hawker-Enersys engineer
about this topic.
He had no knowledge of any perceived
problems with the wall-warts vs. Odyssey products . . .
those issues were addressed in a different
division of Enersys.
I continued to use my trusty constellation of
wall-warts with pleasing results.
I note that Odyssey has their own flavor of
battery charger. See https://tinyurl.com/y67jy8tb
It offers a charging profile that looks like this:
Emacs!
A search of the 'net revealed several products
featuring 4 to 7 stages of charging. Who wuda thunk
it? I wondered if that 'auto maintain' profile
was dictated by Odyssey . . . or simply popped
up as a feature in a charger they are re-branding.
The 'storage recondition mode' is also a puzzle.
It has the look and smell of a pulsed energy
profile intended to 'break up' lead sulfide
crystals. I've seen countless articles on battery
de-sufation with near miraculous claims for
having preserved or recovering a trashed lead-acid
battery.
Check out this article at Battery University:
https://tinyurl.com/y2kdehzt
The comments are worth reading too. Note that
one comment that cites dozens of patents
on de-sulfation technology wherein the
inventor claims all previous patents are
inadequate or worthless.
I note that this document on the Odyssey
website . . .
https://tinyurl.com/y429aqbj
speaks of SVLA battery recovery process
that calls for several cycles of discharge
to 10v, charge and top off at 14.7 followed
by float at 13.6. Those numbers have been
around for nearly 30 years. To date, I've
not learned of any useful deviations.
Just for grins, I ordered this latest-n-greatest
version of a Battery Minder
https://tinyurl.com/y32cjfvv
So forgive me if, in the absence of any
engineering test documentation, I am
reluctant to embrace any notion that
there's really something new under the
sun in battery chargers. I'll keep
y'al posted on the super-whippy Battery
Tender.
> I'm at about 4 years on my Odyssey 925 in the Aridzona heat, and
> still working fine.
Have you cap-checked the battery recently?
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Three Questions on Z-07 |
At 10:19 AM 3/16/2019, you wrote:
>The best reason I can think of to have two batteries is to get the
>engine started if the primary battery doesn't get the job done, and
>you happen to be on some remote Alaskan gravel bar. Many modern
>aircraft cannot be hand propped.
One battery, sized and MAINTAINED for the
task will never fail to get the engine
started.
Cranking the engine requires but 3-6
percent of a battery's contained
energy . . . a trivial sum. If the
battery fails to get an engine started,
it's axiomatic that it's suitability
for continued flight has long since
past.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
> Some builders are willing to sacrifice money and performance for their
>peace of mind. All we can do is look over their shoulder and point out
>anything that is dangerous. If a builder wants to install two large
>batteries, he will do it whether there is a Z figure for it or not.
>Without guidance, his architecture could have a design flaw
Of course . . . and I have never suggested that
anyone fly with less than optimum comfort in their
design decisions. The freedom to customize
our projects goes to that goal.
Yes there have been gross failures in
batteries. There have been jugs thrown
from engines. There have been intractable
in-flight fires. But these are exceedingly
rare.
I believe the statistics will still
tell us that the #1 cause of engine failure
is fuel exhaustion. #1 cause of munched
airframes is from controlled or uncontrolled
flight into terrain; the outcomes of lapse in
attention to the necessities of heavier-than-air
flight.
There is a cartoon parody describing the
effects of over-worrying risks suffered from
the conduct of relatively ordinary tasks.
osha_cowboy
Emacs!
The "OSHA Cowboy" was hypothesized back in
the 70s . . . a classic complaint about the
effects of bureaucratic worrying becoming
law. OSHA folks are PAID to worry. Many
within the FAA are similarly engaged in
no-value-added rule making. ISO9000 was
probably the greatest destructive force
to creative innovation in the history
of industry.
At least for now, we are relatively free
of such encumbrances. But it behooves us
to explore, discuss, share, experiment and
discard all but the most effective
prophylactics against risk.
And I told him that switch makes his airplane less safe.
But I was only one person. Several others told my friend to install that
switch. So he did.
. . . and so you did your duty as an honorable
member of the community of aviators.
Fly comfortably my friend . . .
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Three Questions on Z-07 |
"One battery, sized and MAINTAINED for the
task will never fail to get the engine
started."
I get your point Bob, but never say never. We already have one well
respected report of battery failure, not attributable to abuse, just from
the very small sample that consists of the current active members of this
list. (You yourself did the autopsy.)
And remember, we are not all flying airport to airport, or landing in some
farmer's field in Kansas, next to the Interstate (or even county road).
Here in Alaska, we might be landing at some unimproved strip on the tundra,
150 miles from the nearest road. This would be commonplace here. Also
consider cold weather operations where the battery might not be performing
at 100% and the engine might be stiff (and you might be sitting at some
remote landing spot with the 4 hours of available daylight fading quickly).
The consequences of a non-start on the engine vary so much depending upon
the circumstances, I submit that it is not at all unreasonable to either
incorporate a second starting battery, or at least carry one.
Ken
On Sun, Mar 17, 2019 at 8:22 AM Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
> At 10:19 AM 3/16/2019, you wrote:
>
> The best reason I can think of to have two batteries is to get the engine
> started if the primary battery doesn't get the job done, and you happen to
> be on some remote Alaskan gravel bar. Many modern aircraft cannot be hand
> propped.
>
>
> One battery, sized and MAINTAINED for the
> task will never fail to get the engine
> started.
>
> Cranking the engine requires but 3-6
> percent of a battery's contained
> energy . . . a trivial sum. If the
> battery fails to get an engine started,
> it's axiomatic that it's suitability
> for continued flight has long since
> past.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | skywagon185guy <skywagon185(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Battery Charger/Maintainers |
Thanks Bob for these details. . .
Confirms my use of these little maintainers over the last 15+ years on both
autos and planes.
Looking forward to your review of the "latest" Battery Tender especially
what the "pulsed" energy is really doing as mentioned in the ad....
On Sun, Mar 17, 2019 at 9:19 AM Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
> At 03:37 PM 3/15/2019, you wrote:
>
> kellym(at)aviating.com>
>
> Odyssey batteries are often prematurely aged by keeping on a battery
> maintainer. If you contact Odyssey they can give you a rejuvenation
> protocol to restore the battery to near full capacity.
>
> Color me skeptical about battery failures
> on "maintainers" . . .
>
> There was some discussion flying around the
> av-circles over 10 years ago wherein readers
> reported that Odyssey 'banned' certain brands
> of maintainers . . . Battery Tender included.
>
> I was mystified by this. I had been using
> Battery Tenders and Battery Minders on
> lab batteries for years with no observable
> problems . . . the point of a maintainer is
> to boost the voltage on a fully charged
> battery to some point just above it's
> open circuit resting voltage. The rationale
> says that one wants to transfer internal
> parasitic discharge loads from the CHEMISTRY
> to an EXTERNAL source.
>
> My maintainers always sat at about 13.1 to
> 13.4 volts after their run-up during
> charge.
>
> [image: Emacs!]
>
> [image: Emacs!]
>
>
> During a battery failure investigation for Raytheon-
> Beech, I had occasion to query a Hawker-Enersys engineer
> about this topic.
>
> He had no knowledge of any perceived
> problems with the wall-warts vs. Odyssey products . . .
> those issues were addressed in a different
> division of Enersys.
>
> I continued to use my trusty constellation of
> wall-warts with pleasing results.
>
> I note that Odyssey has their own flavor of
> battery charger. See https://tinyurl.com/y67jy8tb
>
> It offers a charging profile that looks like this:
>
> [image: Emacs!]
>
> A search of the 'net revealed several products
> featuring 4 to 7 stages of charging. Who wuda thunk
> it? I wondered if that 'auto maintain' profile
> was dictated by Odyssey . . . or simply popped
> up as a feature in a charger they are re-branding.
>
> The 'storage recondition mode' is also a puzzle.
> It has the look and smell of a pulsed energy
> profile intended to 'break up' lead sulfide
> crystals. I've seen countless articles on battery
> de-sufation with near miraculous claims for
> having preserved or recovering a trashed lead-acid
> battery.
>
>
> Check out this article at Battery University:
>
> https://tinyurl.com/y2kdehzt
>
> The comments are worth reading too. Note that
> one comment that cites dozens of patents
> on de-sulfation technology wherein the
> inventor claims all previous patents are
> inadequate or worthless.
>
> I note that this document on the Odyssey
> website . . .
>
> https://tinyurl.com/y429aqbj
>
> speaks of SVLA battery recovery process
> that calls for several cycles of discharge
> to 10v, charge and top off at 14.7 followed
> by float at 13.6. Those numbers have been
> around for nearly 30 years. To date, I've
> not learned of any useful deviations.
>
> Just for grins, I ordered this latest-n-greatest
> version of a Battery Minder
>
> https://tinyurl.com/y32cjfvv
>
>
> So forgive me if, in the absence of any
> engineering test documentation, I am
> reluctant to embrace any notion that
> there's really something new under the
> sun in battery chargers. I'll keep
> y'al posted on the super-whippy Battery
> Tender.
>
>
> I'm at about 4 years on my Odyssey 925 in the Aridzona heat, and still
> working fine.
>
>
> Have you cap-checked the battery recently?
>
> Bob . . .
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Three Questions on Z-07 |
At 12:06 PM 3/17/2019, you wrote:
>"One battery, sized and MAINTAINED for the
>=C2 task will never fail to get the engine
>=C2 started."
>
>I get your point Bob, but never say never. We
>already have one well respected report of
>battery failure, not attributable to abuse, just
>from the very small sample that consists of the
>current active members of this list. (You yourself did the autopsy.)
>
>And remember, we are not all flying airport to
>airport, or landing in some farmer's field in
>Kansas, next to the Interstate (or even county
>road). Here in Alaska, we might be landing at
>some unimproved strip on the tundra, 150 miles
>from the nearest road. This would be commonplace
>here. Also consider cold weather operations
>where the battery might not be performing at
>100% and the engine might be stiff (and you
>might be sitting at some remote landing spot
>with the 4 hours of available daylight fading quickly).
>
>The consequences of a non-start on the engine
>vary so much depending upon the circumstances, I
>submit that it is not at all unreasonable to
>either incorporate a second starting battery, or at least carry one.
No argument . . . that's what FMEA,
load analysis, preventative maintenance,
and matching the hardware to the mission
is all about. How many of the GA fleet
lands on floats anywhere much less
on remote lakes in the NW Territories?
(BTW, about 20 years ago, I did a drawing
for an Alaskan bush pilot adding an
auxiliary battery to the interior of
one of his floats.
Lots of unused volume there. Mounting
the battery there didn't penalize
volume in the aircraft and was easier
to manage structurally)
There are NO broad brush recommendations
here . . . only an encouragement to
match machine and pilot to the task
while maximizing utility and minimizing
risk . . . a start-stick might well
fill the bill. But Z07 was never completed.
If the List wishes to 'fine tune' this
architecture, I'd be pleased to participate
in cogent argument.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Battery Charger/Maintainers |
At 12:24 PM 3/17/2019, you wrote:
>Thanks Bob for these details. . .
>Confirms my use of these little maintainers over the last 15+ years
>on both autos and planes.
>Looking forward to your review of the "latest" Battery Tender
>especially what the "pulsed" energy is really doing as mentioned in the ad....
It may take awhile . . . I read a testimonial
on this product wherein the writer claimed
to have 'recovered a trashed battery to
good as new'. Of course, there was no
quantitative analysis of performance
in the recovered battery . . . I suspect
that it started and engine but capacity
never checked.
Out here in oil-patch-and-cowpie-country,
there is a virtual mountain test subjects
available to test . . . but the writer
of the review did confess that he left
the whizzy maintainer on for 90 days!
We'll see . . .
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Three Questions on Z-07 |
| From: | "markfw" <markwheelermd(at)icloud.com> |
Bob,
I have assumed that I would use two batteries for 4 reasons:
1. I believed that there was a requirement to have a working battery to (magically
to me) "cushion" delicate avionics from the alternator current;
2. I assumed that I could parallel the LiFePO4 batteries to aid in starting
3. I was trying to guard against a battery failure "from bringing down the whole
system".
4. It is easier for me to mount two smaller batteries in parallel than one large
one given my alternator-out mission requirements.
It seems that reason #1 is bogus, since your discussion of "one large battery"
assumes that the alternator alone can run everything required without a problem.
I don't know where I got this idea.
Reason #2 turns out to (maybe) be bogus as well. Two manufacturers who supply a
BMS with their LiFePo4 batteries recommend AGAINST running their batteries in
parallel. Apparently, low resistance in a single cell of these multi-cell LiFePO4
batteries can greatly reduce capacity and longevity. The manufacturers take
great care to match the resistance of the battery cells when they build them,
and their BMS's spend a lot of time "optimizing" the batteries during charge
and discharge. This is not possible between paralleled batteries and a Resistance
mismatch between the batteries of (for example) 20% can reduce performance
by 40%.
On the other hand another manufacturer who does not supply a BMS with their batteries
says nothing about this. A friend of mine has used their product in parallel
for 3 years without problem.
So, your Z-07 diagram without parallel batteries may still be useful for people
who believe this is a problem for them.
Reason #3 was actually a quote from your 1998 paper "What's all this Battery Isolator
Stuff Anyhow?". I have also heard it mentioned in various discussions of
dual battery installations. As you point out in your 2008 paper "Myths of Multiple
Battery Installation" a shorted cell is exceedingly rare. However, in an
electrically dependent airplane, "rare" is in the eye of the beholder. Is there
any data on this? Given the cell resistance issue LiFePO4 batteries might
that chemistry be more susceptible to this problem?
Finally, reason #4 is a problem that you mention and is certainly not unique to
my situation. My current theory is to use the TCW backup battery solution. It
is automatic, does not parallel the batteries and is a lightweight LiFePO4 solution.
The disadvantage is that (currently) it is limited to a 6 amp/hr capacity,
which is 30 minutes for me throttled back if I lost BOTH my alternator and
primary battery.
Yes, this is non-FEMA thinking to worry about two failures at the same time. I
think that it depends on what the definition of "bringing down the whole system"
is. If a shorted battery cell can somehow stop the alternator from functioning,
isn't that actually one failure?
Mark
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=488119#488119
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Three Questions on Z-07 |
At 03:43 PM 3/17/2019, you wrote:
>
>Bob,
>
>I have assumed that I would use two batteries for 4 reasons:
>
>1. I believed that there was a requirement to have a working battery
>to (magically to me) "cushion" delicate avionics from the alternator current;
not true
>2. I assumed that I could parallel the LiFePO4 batteries to aid in starting
sure . . . would one larger battery do it too?
>3. I was trying to guard against a battery failure "from bringing
>down the whole system".
battery failures don't bring down the whole system.
The alternator will run self excited and you
probably wouldn't know that the battery was
gone until you shut the alternator off.
>4. It is easier for me to mount two smaller batteries in parallel
>than one large one given my alternator-out mission requirements.
available space can drive battery
configuration . . .
>It seems that reason #1 is bogus, since your discussion of "one
>large battery" assumes that the alternator alone can run everything
>required without a problem. I don't know where I got this idea.
>
>Reason #2 turns out to (maybe) be bogus as well. Two manufacturers
>who supply a BMS with their LiFePo4 batteries recommend AGAINST
>running their batteries in parallel. Apparently, low resistance in a
>single cell of these multi-cell LiFePO4 batteries can greatly reduce
>capacity and longevity. The manufacturers take great care to match
>the resistance of the battery cells when they build them, and their
>BMS's spend a lot of time "optimizing" the batteries during charge
>and discharge. This is not possible between paralleled batteries and
>a Resistance mismatch between the batteries of (for example) 20% can
>reduce performance by 40%.
I don't see how this is possible. How does one
battery with a BMS know that there's another
battery on line with it? The bus voltage is
a function of regulator set point. Bus voltage
is the sole determinant for optimal charging
of the battery. The fact that a second battery
shares the bus is totally transparent to the
first battery.
>On the other hand another manufacturer who does not supply a BMS
>with their batteries says nothing about this. A friend of mine has
>used their product in parallel for 3 years without problem.
Exactly. This is what battery charge
balancing is all about. If any single
cell (or cell group) is lagging behind
the rest in achieving full charge (due
perhaps to slightly lower impedance)
then the balancing system places an
artificial load on the remaining cells
in the string until the lagging cell
catches up.
>So, your Z-07 diagram without parallel batteries may still be useful
>for people who believe this is a problem for them.
Believing is subordinate to knowing . . .
knowing is subordinate to understanding.
>Reason #3 was actually a quote from your 1998 paper "What's all this
>Battery Isolator Stuff Anyhow?". I have also heard it mentioned in
>various discussions of dual battery installations. As you point out
>in your 2008 paper "Myths of Multiple Battery Installation" a
>shorted cell is exceedingly rare. However, in an electrically
>dependent airplane, "rare" is in the eye of the beholder. Is there
>any data on this? Given the cell resistance issue LiFePO4 batteries
>might that chemistry be more susceptible to this problem?
If it worries you, you'd better find out.
Just suppose you have two batteries
with their own contactors? How would you become
aware that you had a shorted cell? How would
you know which battery to take off line?
If a cell were shorted in one battery, how
do you know that taking the battery off
line will markedly reduce risk? Each
failure has it's own fingerprint (or
failureprint) in how it manifests,
progresses, propagates and terminates.
Hence, each failure has an optimal
response that drives toward a probable outcome.
>Finally, reason #4 is a problem that you mention and is certainly
>not unique to my situation. My current theory is to use the TCW
>backup battery solution. It is automatic, does not parallel the
>batteries and is a lightweight LiFePO4 solution. The disadvantage is
>that (currently) it is limited to a 6 amp/hr capacity, which is 30
>minutes for me throttled back if I lost BOTH my alternator and
>primary battery.
Nobody looses BOTH unless they've done
something really dumb. What kind
of engine are we talking about?
>Yes, this is non-FEMA thinking to worry about two failures at the
>same time. I think that it depends on what the definition of
>"bringing down the whole system" is. If a shorted battery cell can
>somehow stop the alternator from functioning, isn't that actually one failure?
A shorted cell won't bring down the
alternator. It will probably proceed
to spectacular if not catastrophic
failure in the battery itself . . . recall
that a lithium cell contains a lot of
energy with respect to weight/volume.
That energy has to go somewhere . . . usually
toward warming things up and making really
bad smells. SVLA cells are not particularly
failure friendly either.
So the question before us is exactly what
are the probabilities for an LiFePO4 cell-
short? If it does short, what are the
electrical and physical consequences?
I used to have some friendly contacts at
the Navy's battery testing facilities
in Crane, Indiana. If any battery was
purchased by the Navy, they had put it
through rigorous tests including abuses
designed to produce the greatest risks.
TrueBlue has done extensive testing on
LiFePo4, cylindrical cells used in their
TSO/PMA offerings to TC aircraft. I've
witnessed some tests where a constant
42 volts was placed across the array
of cells in a 24v battery. The poor things
went into apoplectic self-destruction
with considerable out-gassing. Gasses
were vented overboard though the fitting
on top. Outside of the case never reached
temperatures hazardous to the aircraft's
environs.
Emacs!
I can also tell you that the volume of
electronics in these products is roughly
equal to the volume of batteries . . .
the BMS is specifically tasked with
preventing such a failure in the
first place.
It seems to be a choice of products. Just
how much BMS you want to buy ranging
from EarthX down to no BMS like Aerovoltz
. . . or you could pop for True Blue.
Aircraft Spruce covers the range . . .
https://tinyurl.com/y4o5xwuz
ACS has a world-wide market and
deep pockets at risk for very deep picking
should one of their offerings prove
dangerously unsuited to task.
Z07 as last published has lots of
bus structures which, in an electrically
dependent airplane could probably go
away. Wiring this up like a C150 but
with engine dependency serviced directly
from the battery bus is probably the
way to go.
You can go max-cold for smoke in the
cockpit while keeping that whirrly thing
up front turning. You can simply load-shed
in case of alternator failure. If you've
got enough chemical energy on board to
meet satisfactory endurance goals, splitting
that capacity between two, separately
controlled batteries doesn't seem to make
sense.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Kelly <amsk22(at)gmail.com> |
Bob. Thanks for the help. I had a chance to do the voltage tests like you
suggested. They were fairly similar to your your're example. While
cranking the voltage at the battery was around 10.5 and at the starter it
was between 7.5 and 8.5 volts. I also acquired a load tester. At the end
of the 15 sec test current was about 330 amps. Battery voltage dropped to
11.3 volts. The starter is a Sky Tec 149xlt. It's about 3 years old and
has 170 hours on it. This is probably the smallest starter Sky Tec makes.
Not sure if it's the weakest one.
Other contributing factors are cooler weather, fresh engine overhaul, and
a lightweight prop. Still, the starter should spin it better than it is.
Do worn starters draw the battery down faster?
Also, just to be clear, replacing the battery at 75% refers to the time
it takes to drop to 10 volts, correct? In you're example above when the
PC680 gets to 10v in 2.25 hours it's time to consider replacement.
Steve
On Sat, Mar 16, 2019 at 10:13 AM Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
> At 02:15 PM 3/15/2019, you wrote:
>
> That is a very common battery, any battery store will test it for you.
>
> On Fri, Mar 15, 2019, 13:31 Steve Kelly wrote:
>
> Bob,=C3=82 Thank you for the reply.=C3=82 I will try to get out to the
hanger
> early next week and check the voltage readings.=C3=82 The battery is a P
C680 at
> three months old.=C3=82 =C3=82 Do you have a method you would suggest to
do a
> load/capacity check on it.
> That's a pretty fresh battery . . . this suggests
> the problem is elsewhere. However, in answer to
> your testing questions, I'll suggest that
> every owner of an aircraft should also own
> something like this
>
> https://tinyurl.com/yag4529y
>
>
> This LOAD tester allows you to load the battery
> to an output of 9 volts while waiting for the
> 15 second timer light to go out. Note the current
> at the end of 15 seconds . . . it should be in
> excess of 200A for small engines, 300A for larger
> engines. This test confirms the battery's avbility
> to grunt the extra-ordinary demands for cranking
> the engine.
>
> A CAPACITY test seeks to quantify the battery's
> ENERGY content . . . which is entirely separate
> from the capability to grunt a cranking load.
> There are some rather small batteries that have
> demonstrated the ability to crank a turbine
> engine
>
> https://tinyurl.com/yye6znqp
>
> But this product wouldn't run the aircraft's
> critical systems for very long after the
> alternator quits. There are dozens of 'tiny'
> products that offer a similar utility
>
> https://tinyurl.com/y2hzkq9l
>
> The way to cap check your battery is to set
> up your panel to operate your Plan-B (alternator
> out) electrical loads and monitor battery voltage
> with a voltmeter. The time it takes to reduce
> battery voltage to 10V (the lower limit for
> your avionics to operate).
>
> For example, a NEW PC680 has the following
> ENERGY delivery capability.
>
> [image: Emacs!]
> Assume a 4A endurance load. The curves say you're
> good to 3 hours. Here you have to tailor the question
> to match your own endurance requirements. If one hour
> meets your own Plan-B design goals, then according
> to the chart, the new battery is good for about 10A.
> Actually, you would want to rate the battery for about
> 8A given that maintenance protocols suggest replacing
> the battery at 75% of new capacity.
>
> Then there's the real-life test . . . turn on the
> goodies, start the clock, watch the voltage, measure
> the time then recharge the battery. If that time
> is equal to or greater than your design goals, then
> you're good to fly.
>
> How old is your starter? It MIGHT be that brushes
> and/or commutator are worn to the point of producing
> degraded performance.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Battery BMS failures? |
On the Aircraft Spruce page for the Aerovoltz battery, under the "Overview"
tab, the following text appears:
"An Aerovoltz external BMS is in a prototype stage and will be made
available to all Lithium Battery owners in the near future. Putting the
unit internally dramatically drives up the battery cost and all batteries
will wear out eventually so making it external will keep the cost of
ownership lower down the road when it comes time to replace.
*The current BMS systems on the market are very sensitive to damage* and it
can disable a perfectly good battery that will then need replacing. We
don=99t feel that=99s fair to our customers."
Has anyone heard about a rash of BMS failures?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Millner <millner(at)me.com> |
2-3 volts is a huge voltage drop. You need to determine where that=99s
happening... SkyTec has a troubleshooting chart to help you find the bad ac
tor
Sent from my iPhone
> On Mar 18, 2019, at 8:35 AM, Steve Kelly wrote:
>
> Bob. Thanks for the help. I had a chance to do the voltage tests like yo
u suggested. They were fairly similar to your your're example. While crank
ing the voltage at the battery was around 10.5 and at the starter it was bet
ween 7.5 and 8.5 volts. I also acquired a load tester. At the end of the 1
5 sec test current was about 330 amps. Battery voltage dropped to 11.3 volt
s. The starter is a Sky Tec 149xlt. It's about 3 years old and has 170 hou
rs on it. This is probably the smallest starter Sky Tec makes. Not sure if
it's the weakest one.
> Other contributing factors are cooler weather, fresh engine overhaul, an
d a lightweight prop. Still, the starter should spin it better than it is.
Do worn starters draw the battery down faster?
> Also, just to be clear, replacing the battery at 75% refers to the time i
t takes to drop to 10 volts, correct? In you're example above when the PC68
0 gets to 10v in 2.25 hours it's time to consider replacement.
> Steve
>
>
>
>> On Sat, Mar 16, 2019 at 10:13 AM Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob@ae
roelectric.com> wrote:
>> At 02:15 PM 3/15/2019, you wrote:
>>> That is a very common battery, any battery store will test it for you.
>>>
>>> On Fri, Mar 15, 2019, 13:31 Steve Kelly wrote:
>>
>> Bob,=C3=82 Thank you for the reply.=C3=82 I will try to get out to the h
anger early next week and check the voltage readings.=C3=82 The battery is a
PC680 at three months old.=C3=82 =C3=82 Do you have a method you would sug
gest to do a load/capacity check on it.
>>
>> That's a pretty fresh battery . . . this suggests
>> the problem is elsewhere. However, in answer to
>> your testing questions, I'll suggest that
>> every owner of an aircraft should also own
>> something like this
>>
>> https://tinyurl.com/yag4529y
>>
>>
>> This LOAD tester allows you to load the battery
>> to an output of 9 volts while waiting for the
>> 15 second timer light to go out. Note the current
>> at the end of 15 seconds . . . it should be in
>> excess of 200A for small engines, 300A for larger
>> engines. This test confirms the battery's avbility
>> to grunt the extra-ordinary demands for cranking
>> the engine.
>>
>> A CAPACITY test seeks to quantify the battery's
>> ENERGY content . . . which is entirely separate
>> from the capability to grunt a cranking load.
>> There are some rather small batteries that have
>> demonstrated the ability to crank a turbine
>> engine
>>
>> https://tinyurl.com/yye6znqp
>>
>> But this product wouldn't run the aircraft's
>> critical systems for very long after the
>> alternator quits. There are dozens of 'tiny'
>> products that offer a similar utility
>>
>> https://tinyurl.com/y2hzkq9l
>>
>> The way to cap check your battery is to set
>> up your panel to operate your Plan-B (alternator
>> out) electrical loads and monitor battery voltage
>> with a voltmeter. The time it takes to reduce
>> battery voltage to 10V (the lower limit for
>> your avionics to operate).
>>
>> For example, a NEW PC680 has the following
>> ENERGY delivery capability.
>>
>> <10a704b8.jpg>
>> Assume a 4A endurance load. The curves say you're
>> good to 3 hours. Here you have to tailor the question
>> to match your own endurance requirements. If one hour
>> meets your own Plan-B design goals, then according
>> to the chart, the new battery is good for about 10A.
>> Actually, you would want to rate the battery for about
>> 8A given that maintenance protocols suggest replacing
>> the battery at 75% of new capacity.
>>
>> Then there's the real-life test . . . turn on the
>> goodies, start the clock, watch the voltage, measure
>> the time then recharge the battery. If that time
>> is equal to or greater than your design goals, then
>> you're good to fly.
>>
>> How old is your starter? It MIGHT be that brushes
>> and/or commutator are worn to the point of producing
>> degraded performance.
>>
>>
>> Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
At 12:09 PM 3/18/2019, you wrote:
>2-3 volts is a huge voltage drop. You need to
>determine where that=99s happening... SkyTec has
>a troubleshooting chart to help you find the bad actor
Agreed. Use a voltmeter between
(1) battery(+) and starter power terminal
while cranking.
(2) battery(-) and crankcase.
Where is your battery located with respect
to starter i.e. how long are the wires
and what gage are they?
This is a NEW condition . . . used to crank
right smartly and only now sluggish?
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Battery BMS failures? |
>
>Has anyone heard about a rash of BMS failures?
Good catch Ken. I'd be interested
(as would we all) in knowing what
kind of BMS failures have occurred.
Unfortunately, every battery failure
I've tried to follow up with the
manufacture was greeted with a stone
wall . . . take that back . . . used
to get great data dumps from Skip
Koss on Concorde product issues.
I've asked to be the recipient of any
failed batteries (or other devices)
so that I might disassemble for close
examination in a quest for answers . . .
but those opportunities are rare
to non-existent.
The outcome of non-communication is
ignorant assumption which gets traded
around the various venues . . . with
demonstrable data creep.
The first difficulty we have is defining
"Battery Management System". Many
lithium cylindrical cells are fitted
with dead short mitigation and are
advertised to be fitted with a "BMS".
Batteries and array of series-parallel
cells might include a cell balancing
module and advertised to include
a built-in "BMS".
Then there are full-up BMS like EarthX
and True Blue that will manage overheat,
over volts, charge balance/limiting,
fault mitigation and, in True Blue
case, comfortable management of vented
gasses in case the unthinkable does
happen.
Unless we're favored with a published
product performance specification for
the failure being studied, any assertions
about 'BMS failure' are exceedingly short
on useful data.
Keep your ears to the ground guys . . .
we might get lucky . . .
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Kelly <amsk22(at)gmail.com> |
Bob,
The slow prop became more noticeable after rebuilding the engine last
summer. Fresh cylinders along with upping the compression ratio from 7 to
8.5.
The battery and solenoids are located on the firewall. So the cables are
not very long. Maybe 5' total and 2' for ground. They are B&Cs 4 ga. weld
cable.
Looking at the measurements I made yesterday, the drop on the negative
was small, maybe .3 volts. The biggest drop was somewhere between the
battery and in side of the starter solenoid. 10.5 volts down to around
8. Didn't check either side of the battery contactor as the battery was
getting low. I have a brass strap that connects between the two
contactors. 1/2' wide by about 4" long. Do you think this may not be
adequate. Either that or the battery contactor. I will check the voltages
there when I get back out to the hanger.
Thanks, Steve
On Mon, Mar 18, 2019 at 1:37 PM Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
> At 12:09 PM 3/18/2019, you wrote:
>
> 2-3 volts is a huge voltage drop. You need to determine where that=C3=A2
=82=AC=84=A2s
> happening... SkyTec has a troubleshooting chart to help you find the bad
> actor
>
>
> Agreed. Use a voltmeter between
>
> (1) battery(+) and starter power terminal
> while cranking.
>
> (2) battery(-) and crankcase.
>
> Where is your battery located with respect
> to starter i.e. how long are the wires
> and what gage are they?
>
> This is a NEW condition . . . used to crank
> right smartly and only now sluggish?
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ernest Christley <echristley(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Battery BMS failures? |
I have heard about the desulfater (sp?) charges killing the electronics du
e to their large voltage spikes.=C2- The battery manufacturers themselves
warn about those.
Otherwise....nada.
.com> wrote:
On the Aircraft Spruce page for the Aerovoltz battery, under the "Overview
" tab, the following text appears:
"An Aerovoltz external BMS is in a prototype stage and will be made availab
le to all Lithium Battery owners in the near future. Putting the unit inter
nally dramatically drives up the battery cost and all batteries will wear o
ut eventually so making it external will keep the cost of ownership lower d
own the road when it comes time to replace.
The current BMS systems on the market are very sensitive to damage and it c
an disable a perfectly good battery that will then need replacing. We don
=99t feel that=99s fair to our customers."
Has anyone heard about a rash of BMS failures?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
Your compression change is not significant in terms of starter cranking.
A PC680 easily cranks an 0-360 with 8.5 compression.
Check to see that each connection is at proper torque at the max end of
scale for bolt size. Check the drop across the solenoid.
Now that you have run the battery down a fair amount, charge it at
around 3 amps until full charge. Should have a resting voltage of 12.9
to 13.0 four or more hours after off charger. If less, may need
rejuvenation through several discharge, charge cycles.
On 3/18/2019 2:49 PM, Steve Kelly wrote:
> Bob,
> The slow prop became more noticeable after rebuilding the engine last
> summer. Fresh cylinders along with upping the compression ratio from 7
> to 8.5.
> The battery and solenoids are located on the firewall. So the cables
> are not very long. Maybe 5' total and 2' for ground. They are B&Cs 4
> ga. weld cable.
> Looking at the measurements I made yesterday, the drop on the
> negative was small, maybe .3 volts. The biggest drop was somewhere
> between the battery and in side of the starter solenoid. 10.5 volts
> down to around 8. Didn't check either side of the battery contactor as
> the battery was getting low. I have a brass strap that connects between
> the two contactors. 1/2' wide by about 4" long. Do you think this may
> not be adequate. Either that or the battery contactor. I will check
> the voltages there when I get back out to the hanger.
> Thanks, Steve
>
> On Mon, Mar 18, 2019 at 1:37 PM Robert L. Nuckolls, III
> >
> wrote:
>
> At 12:09 PM 3/18/2019, you wrote:
>> 2-3 volts is a huge voltage drop. You need to determine where
>> thats happening... SkyTec has a troubleshooting chart to help
>> you find the bad actor
>>
>
> Agreed. Use a voltmeter between
>
> (1) battery(+) and starter power terminal
> while cranking.
>
> (2) battery(-) and crankcase.
>
> Where is your battery located with respect
> to starter i.e. how long are the wires
> and what gage are they?
>
> This is a NEW condition . . . used to crank
> right smartly and only now sluggish?
>
>
> __
>
> __ Bob . . .
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Buy Discount adidas Yeezy Powerphase on 2019mensjordans.com |
| From: | "JacksonaFleming" <georgemcmillan202(at)gmail.com> |
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Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=488149#488149
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Battery BMS failures? |
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com> |
On 3/18/2019 12:47 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
> [snip]
> Then there are full-up BMS like EarthX
> and True Blue that will manage overheat,
> over volts, charge balance/limiting,
> fault mitigation and, in True Blue
> case, comfortable management of vented
> gasses in case the unthinkable does
> happen.
>
> Unless we're favored with a published
> product performance specification for
> the failure being studied, any assertions
> about 'BMS failure' are exceedingly short
> on useful data.
>
> Keep your ears to the ground guys . . .
> we might get lucky . . .
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
Bob,
Speaking of BMS, perhaps you can explain (since EarthX seems unable)
why EarthX batteries, with their 'full BMS', have a limit on alternator
current capability based on their battery capacity. I am unable to see
why a BMS that can manage individual cell charging, and protect
individual cells plus the entire battery, is unable to limit overall
charge current to the battery to a safe level. I've repeatedly asked
that question of their spokesperson on the VAF (RV) forum, and gotten
words without answers.
Charlie
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Still noisy voltmeter |
| From: | "Achille" <mickael.t(at)live.fr> |
Hi all,
I send a message because I have since months a noisy voltmeter after the total
change of my electrical system. And I tried to resolved it without good evolution.
I have used the book of bob, and it's the Z19 electrical diagram or very close
to.
I have 2 votmeters, one for main batterie and the other one for the aux bat 7amp/h
bat. Set with one 2 way switch.
The both voltmeters are on the same place and the wire of each other are a wire
harness. This wire harness pass below my VHF. And just the voltmeter 1 (Main
system) is noisy. The other not. (pictures below)
My voltmeter 1 was set on the ESS bus bar after the diode. I tried to connect it
before the diode. And in this case it's a bit (but still noisy) less noisy.
I have the noise a low level when I set voltmeter in ON and intercom ON, and when
I set radio in ON the noise is higher.
In all case if I set my voltmeters in OFF no more noise.
Voltmeters switch ON but voltmeter 1 disconnected no noise... [Rolling Eyes]
Any idea ? Thank you
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=488163#488163
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/voltmeter_246.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/voltmeter_2_173.pdf
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Still noisy voltmeter |
| From: | "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com> |
How is voltmeter 1 grounded? I suggest to NOT ground the voltmeter to the
airframe. Instead, twist the positive and negative wires together all of the way
from the voltmeter to the battery. At the switch, loop the ground wire around
the switch, then continue the twisted pair to the battery.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=488164#488164
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Battery BMS failures? |
>Bob,
>
>Speaking of BMS, perhaps you can explain (since EarthX seems
>unable) why EarthX batteries, with their 'full BMS', have a limit on
>alternator current capability based on their battery capacity. I am
>unable to see why a BMS that can manage individual cell charging,
>and protect individual cells plus the entire battery, is unable to
>limit overall charge current to the battery to a safe level. I've
>repeatedly asked that question of their spokesperson on the VAF (RV)
>forum, and gotten words without answers.
>
>Charlie
Interesting question . . .
I've oft asserted that batteries are
like houseplants. Given the right treatment
in proper proportions and protected from
deleterious stress, they will 'bloom'
and thrive.
But the term 'battery' is not quantified
and the selection of a battery is to
craft a kind of marriage between a host
of players not the least of which are
the engine driven power source(s) and
design goals for normal and abnormal
operations.
Lithium cells are the orchids of the
battery family . . . capable of extra-
ordinary performance in some respects
but exceedingly sensitive to
stress largely tolerated or
shrugged off by the likes of
Flooded, SVLA, gell and NiCad
technologies.
Lithium is extra-ordinarily vulnerable
to over and under voltage conditions.
Hence the 'real' BMS will strive to
operate the array of cells between
about 20 and 90 percent of charge.
This is a goal stated by the electric
and hybrid car folks. No doubt, EarthX
has their own numbers but what ever
the numbers, ignoring them risks
premature battery failure.
Then there's temperature . . . stuffing
energy back into a lithium array
MUST raise the chemistry's temperature
as does prolonged heavy rate discharge.
So the agile BMS watches temperatures
and strives to limit those effects
on the cells irrespective of system
demands from the outside.
External hard faults cause spectacular
current flows with a new constellation
of risks for catastrophic failures.
A BMS tailored for engine cranking
expects to see some really high
current flows for short periods of
time . . . but it must differentiate
between starter inrush/engine spin-up
and a hard fault.
I've mentioned that the enclosure
for a True Blue, TC/TSO battery
is filled with electronics . . .
electronics with agility and robustness
to accomplish all these things to
prevent premature failure while packaged
to keep the rare catastrophic failure
from migrating to the rest of the
aircraft.
True Blue batteries are used on twin
turbine aircraft with starter generators
up to and including 400A per side or
800A of recharge capability. Starter
inrush is typically 1500-2000 amps
followed by spin-up currents on the
order of 500-700A lasting 20-30
seconds. My hat is off to the folks
who crafted an array of silicon that
can operate in series with those loads
yet meet design goals for safety and
battery life.
AeroVoltz seems to be moving toward
offering an EXTERNAL BMS for their
product line . . . methinks a fine
idea. That way you don't trash a
bunch of perfectly good transistors
along with a shot battery.
The most difficult thing for a BMS
to do is throttle currents . . . in
either a charge or discharge mode.
The series connected control devices
are either switched on hard (saturated)
or totally open (off). This offers
the smallest form factor of electronics
to manage such current levels.
Battery recharge limits are largely
a thermal management issue. The
very low internal impedance of the
lithium cell COMBINED with its
low mass raises concerns for overheating
during prolonged high rates of charge.
True Blue isn't immune to these
forces either but they're designed to
work in a world of currents a magnitude
greater than piston driven light aircraft.
EarthX and contemporaries are not immune
from the need to make compromises in design
goals. They are marketing good cranking
performance and light weight. Light
weight generally brings extra-ordinary
requirements in thermal management.
Light weight and small size puts limits
on capacity . . . largely independent
of short term cranking ability.
Given the fact that a BMS cannot 'throttle'
current into or out of the battery,
they must be cognizant of the risks for
marrying their 'orchid' to a system
recently divorced from a 'bromeliad'
that may not easily bloom but it doesn't
lay down and die when insulted.
So what's the responsible supplier of
light cranking batteries to do when
marketing to relative technical
novices about the care and feeding
of their products. To be sure, lots
of their batteries are being married
to systems that already have alternators
that are too big.
If the engine starts easily when
smartly cranked time needed to recharge
is limited even if too fast. If the
operator NEVER allows the battery to
be deeply discharged followed by
an in-situ recharge by the ship's
too-big alternator . . . then risks
to the battery are low.
At the same time, the operator purchased
"light" and "whippy-starting" and made
no demands for electrical and thermal
robustness. So it makes sense that
EarthX would recommend limiting the
size of the alternator depending
on size of battery . . . not a very
realistic expectation but a good
CYA move nonetheless.
This raises a recollection of experiences
with another shotgun wedding between
poorly matched components. Waayyy
back when we got all exercised about
what was then a big quantum leap
in light weight, robust cranking
batteries with flooded NiCads.
After setting a few airplanes on fire
with a marriage of nicad and twin
turbines, powers-that=be decided
that the BEST thing to do was add
a remote reading battery temperature
meter paired with yellow warning
and red danger lights designed
to assist crews in managing their
'orchids' to prevent overheat
and thermal runaway.
I argued then that we could craft
an accessory to the starter-generator
controllers that would automatically
adjust bus voltage in response to
battery overheat. That wasn't well
received so we added another thing
on the panel that was harder to
install and drove up pilot work
loads.
The same thing could be done here.
The BMS for the alternator/lithium
marriage could easily include an
regulator that would prevent an
alternator of ANY SIZE from abusing
the battery . . . maybe AeroVoltz
will do it.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Battery BMS failures? |
| From: | "Eric Page" <edpav8r(at)yahoo.com> |
Charlie England wrote:
> Speaking of BMS, perhaps you can explain (since EarthX seems unable) why EarthX
batteries, with their 'full BMS', have a limit on alternator current capability
based on their battery capacity. I am unable to see why a BMS that can manage
individual cell charging, and protect individual cells plus the entire battery,
is unable to limit overall charge current to the battery to a safe level.
I've repeatedly asked that question of their spokesperson on the VAF (RV) forum,
and gotten words without answers.
My guess is that it's a limitation of the cell balancing circuitry in the BMS.
As a cell within the battery reaches full charge, the BMS puts a resistance across
it (either a fixed resistor hard-switched across the cell or a linear-mode
transistor) to burn the current that would otherwise overcharge the cell while
the others continue to charge. There must be a limit to the power that this
system can dissipate, which may explain the alternator output limitation.
Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
> After setting a few airplanes on fire with a marriage of nicad and twin turbines,
powers-that=be decided that the BEST thing to do was add a remote reading
battery temperature meter paired with yellow warning and red danger lights designed
to assist crews in managing their 'orchids' to prevent overheat and thermal
runaway.
Indeed, the deHavilland DHC-8-202 that I flew in a previous life was fitted with
battery temperature gauges on the overhead panel (just below the left fire t-handle
in the linked image).
https://bitly.com/2uj9V9F+
The airline I worked for operated them in the desert southwest, where ambient temps
routinely exceed 100F. Given the short-hop, quick-turn nature of the flying
we did, and the eye-watering current required to start a >2,000shp engine,
we kept a close eye on those gauges.
Eric
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=488170#488170
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dhc_8_batt_temp_855.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Battery BMS failures? |
> So the agile BMS watches temperatures
> and strives to limit those effects
> on the cells irrespective of system
> demands from the outside.
Oh yeah, forgot to include charge balancing.
Unlike most battery chemistries, individual
cells in a series string of lithium may
become 'unbalanced'. This simply means that
one or more cells may 'top off' sooner than
the rest. If the charging continues until
all cells are topped off, there is risk
for over-charging the fast learners thus
insulting their sensibilities.
This is generally accomplished by placing
a load resistor across the faster cells
thus forcing more charge energy into the
slow cells until everyone is in lock-step . . .
consider a cell balancer to be the
ISO9000 of the lithium battery community.
Here's an article from Battery University
on the topic . . .
https://tinyurl.com/y3egekew
. . . yesterday's missive was intended to
illustrate that the term "BMS" is un-defined
in the consumer world and maybe not well
defined in the engineering world either. Unless you
have access to the designer's product performance
specification, it's wise to investigate
before you plunk down your beer money
for a battery upgrade. The full constellation
of products offered are NOT interchangeable
nor are they necessarily plug-n-play into
our legacy electrical systems.
In light of this fact, the phrase "BMS
failure" in any dark-n-stormy-night
story is not very informative unless
the narrator offers specific failure
analysis data . . . almost NEVER a
component of such stories.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Battery BMS failures? |
>
>Indeed, the deHavilland DHC-8-202 that I flew in
>a previous life was fitted with battery
>temperature gauges on the overhead panel (just
>below the left fire t-handle in the linked image).
>
>https://bitly.com/2uj9V9F+
>
>The airline I worked for operated them in the
>desert southwest, where ambient temps routinely
>exceed 100=C2=B0F. Given the short-hop, quick-turn
>nature of the flying we did, and the
>eye-watering current required to start
>a >2,000shp engine, we kept a close eye on those gauges.
>
>Eric
Did you ever have occasion to take
a hot battery off line?
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eric Page <edpav8r(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Battery BMS failures? |
> On Mar 21, 2019, at 08:36, Robert L. Nuckolls, III
wrote:
>
> Did you ever have occasion to take a hot battery off line?
Just once, but not in flight. After flying three Phoenix-Yuma-Phoenix round trips
on an especially brutal July day, we exceeded limits and couldnt start up
for the fourth scheduled Yuma turn. I cant say that either of us was particularly
bothered by the forced break!
Eric
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Battery BMS failures? |
| From: | C&K <yellowduckduo(at)gmail.com> |
On 21/03/2019 11:36 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
>>
>> Indeed, the deHavilland DHC-8-202 that I flew in a previous life was
>> fitted with battery temperature gauges on the overhead panel (just
>> below the left fire t-handle in the linked image).
>>
>> https://bitly.com/2uj9V9F +
>>
>> The airline I worked for operated them in the desert southwest, where
>> ambient temps routinely exceed 100F. Given the short-hop,
>> quick-turn nature of the flying we did, and the eye-watering current
>> required to start a >2,000shp engine, we kept a close eye on those
>> gauges.
>>
>> Eric
>
> Did you ever have occasion to take
> a hot battery off line?
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
An aircraft of that size and vintage may have had a battery charger that
monitored temperature and could limit charging current??
It seems like the Lithium "BMS" strategies are moving in that direction.
Limiting the alternator size as per Earth-X recommendations is a small
step in that direction which I applaud. Even with VRLA batteries I
tossed my 100+ amp alternator in favor of a 40 amp unit.
Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eric Page <edpav8r(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Battery BMS failures? |
> On Mar 21, 2019, at 10:28, C&K wrote:
> An aircraft of that size and vintage may have had a battery charger that monitored
temperature and could limit charging current??
Dont quote me on this (its been awhile...) but as I recall, the temperature monitoring
was separate from the charger. I think the chargers only data inputs
were weight-on-wheels and where its AC Power was coming from (external or engine-driven
generator).
Eric
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James kale" <jimkale(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Battery BMS failures? |
I was a 28 year Army Active Duty helicopter pilot. In the mid 70's I had a
Nicad helicopter battery completely melt down. Just molton liquid in the
steel box container. Fortunately the hydrogen did not ignite. We smelled
it and then noticed a terrifically high charge rate. We landed the CH-47
helicopter and we opened the battery box to find the mess. A few years
later the Army put a warning in the manual to land if you smelled the rotten
egg smell and get out of the helicopter get away from it and not to touch
the battery. Finally in the 90s the manufacturer put a battery charger in
the circuit which limited the charge current to about 10 amps. It
prevented thermal runaway charging which could happen with the battery just
tied to the main bus and a 200 amp generator attached to the bus.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
On Behalf Of C&K
Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2019 12:28 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Battery BMS failures?
On 21/03/2019 11:36 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
>>
>> Indeed, the deHavilland DHC-8-202 that I flew in a previous life was
>> fitted with battery temperature gauges on the overhead panel (just
>> below the left fire t-handle in the linked image).
>>
>> https://bitly.com/2uj9V9F +
>>
>> The airline I worked for operated them in the desert southwest, where
>> ambient temps routinely exceed 100F. Given the short-hop,
>> quick-turn nature of the flying we did, and the eye-watering current
>> required to start a >2,000shp engine, we kept a close eye on those
>> gauges.
>>
>> Eric
>
> Did you ever have occasion to take
> a hot battery off line?
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
February 16, 2019 - March 22, 2019
AeroElectric-Archive.digest.vol-ox