Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-cs
February 21, 2001 - March 12, 2001
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "dama" <dama(at)mindspring.com>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 6:29 PM
> Subject: Kolb-List: Database
>
>
> >
> > Kolb Listers,
> > After 5 attempts to meet anyone from the Kolb List in 5 areas of the
> > country, I am wondering where everyone is! We are apparently more
> scattered
> > than I thought. I have thought of compiling a database of Kolb people,
> > organized by state and posted monthly with updates. I am willing to do
> this
> > because I think it might benefit all of us if we travel to where another
> > builder/pilot may be. A printout in the shop may be handy for quick
> building
> > advice also. So, if you would like to participate, I am starting with
this
> > basic info: (consider any of it optional or suggest other info)
> >
> > Name
> > City/State
> > Kolb Model/Engine
> > Hours on Airframe
> > E-mail address
> >
> > Email me at dama(at)mindspring.com
> >
> > Kip Laurie
> > Atlanta, GA
> > Firestar II/R503
> > 53 hours
> > dama(at)mindspring.com
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> |
Thing that I, at least, tend to forget is that the List is only a portion of
the Kolb-ers out there. I've met several in SoCal who don't have, and don't
want, computers. Nice people in spite of that, tho'. ( ???? ) Wonder if
there's any practical way to find those guys ?? Big Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "dama" <dama(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 9:48 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Database
>
> I recall a map with alot of acreage between builders.
> Kip
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: larrybiglar <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 10:02 PM
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Database
>
>
> >
> > Hasn't this already been done ?? John ??
> >
> > Larry Bourne
> > Palm Springs, Ca.
> > Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
> > http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "dama" <dama(at)mindspring.com>
> > To:
> > Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 6:29 PM
> > Subject: Kolb-List: Database
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Kolb Listers,
> > > After 5 attempts to meet anyone from the Kolb List in 5 areas of the
> > > country, I am wondering where everyone is! We are apparently more
> > scattered
> > > than I thought. I have thought of compiling a database of Kolb people,
> > > organized by state and posted monthly with updates. I am willing to do
> > this
> > > because I think it might benefit all of us if we travel to where
another
> > > builder/pilot may be. A printout in the shop may be handy for quick
> > building
> > > advice also. So, if you would like to participate, I am starting with
> this
> > > basic info: (consider any of it optional or suggest other info)
> > >
> > > Name
> > > City/State
> > > Kolb Model/Engine
> > > Hours on Airframe
> > > E-mail address
> > >
> > > Email me at dama(at)mindspring.com
> > >
> > > Kip Laurie
> > > Atlanta, GA
> > > Firestar II/R503
> > > 53 hours
> > > dama(at)mindspring.com
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Julian Warren <jgw300(at)webolium.com> |
I don't know who sent in the suggestion about scribing the aluminum
gusset material, but that was a good one. I thought I would try
it...... bought a scribe and went to work. It takes a little strength
to break the full 12 inch width, but I used a piece of wood to clamp the
metal to the table and put the scribe line about an eighth of an inch
over the edge. Then used another piece of wood on the end to bend. It
broke really clean with just a quick run across the belt sander to catch
any burrs.
The individual cuts of 3 or 4 inches are really easy to do without
clamping the piece down. It also breaks clean, and it does conserve a
lot of aluminum. Never too old to learn, and into new things. Thanks
for the tip.
Julian Warren
Eugene, Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Julian Warren <jgw300(at)webolium.com> |
Sounds like a good idea
Julian Warren
Eugene, Oregon
0 hours on airframe = 19 hours building
jgw300(at)webolium.com
Julian Warren
Eugene, Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Circuit Protection |
Wouldn't ya know it ! ! ! I just finished spending a small fortune on
circuit breakers for my panel - cause I don't like fuses - and now in
the new March, 2001 Kitplanes, on page 70, Jim Weir talks about the new
( ??? ) Polyswitch fuses from Raychem. They're a carbon in polymer
device that melts at a given load and breaks contact. When they cool,
they re-solidify and start carrying current again. If the short
continues, they have a bypass that'll keep them melted. Reliability
reports show 10 failures per BILLION hours of operation. Good enuf for
government work, I guess. Best of all - these things cost from .65
cents to $1.25 each, depending on load range. I'm having some strange
glitches with this beast of mine tonight, and couldn't access all of
Raychem's website. ( http://www.raychem.com ) Weir lists Mouser (
http://www.mouser.com ) as a source, but they don't show them, so I
emailed a question to them. Also shows digikey as a supplier (
http://www.digikey.com ) but I couldn't open their site. ( See John,
you're not the only one I'm having problems with ) Folks, you had best
be for believing that this ol' boy is gonna go right after more info on
these ! ! ! My breakers are still in their packages, and can be
returned. No holes drilled yet for them, either. If anyone else can
get more info on these things, I'd sure like to hear it.
Excited Lar.
P.S. Didja read his recent column on Personal Digital Assistant/GPS
navigators ?? Sounds real good, and more coming next month. The times,
they are a-changin'. Yabba-Dabba-Doooooooooo....................!
! ! Aaaaaaand.....................Catalina this Saturday, and
EAA Chapter 1's Flabob fly-in on Sunday ! ! ! ! !
Go-Gettin' Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WILLIAM D BRADSHAW <PIPERJ5(at)shtc.net> |
| Subject: | Correct Terminology |
When I hear " Firestar I " I think 5 rib single seat.
When I hear " Firestar II " I think 7 rib two seat.
I built Firestar # 99300008 with the 7 rib wing,
heavy landing gear, larger tires, and single seat.
What is the most correct termalnology for this
configuration?
Danny Bradshaw
McBee S.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Foley" <mfoley(at)Thermawave.com> |
Hi No problem here is every thing you need
Home number 925-684-2376
Mike
Michael E Foley
THERMA-WAVE
Field Service Engineer
Western Region
Phone: 510-687-3505
Cell Phone:510-520-5579
Pager: 800-771-9214
Fax: 1-510-353-0130
E-Mail: MFoley(at)thermawave.com
>>> dama(at)mindspring.com 02/21/01 06:29PM >>>
Kolb Listers,
After 5 attempts to meet anyone from the Kolb List in 5 areas of the
country, I am wondering where everyone is! We are apparently more scattered
than I thought. I have thought of compiling a database of Kolb people,
organized by state and posted monthly with updates. I am willing to do this
because I think it might benefit all of us if we travel to where another
builder/pilot may be. A printout in the shop may be handy for quick building
advice also. So, if you would like to participate, I am starting with this
basic info: (consider any of it optional or suggest other info)
Name
City/State
Kolb Model/Engine
Hours on Airframe
E-mail address
Email me at dama(at)mindspring.com
Kip Laurie
Atlanta, GA
Firestar II/R503
53 hours
dama(at)mindspring.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Foley" <mfoley(at)Thermawave.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Circuit Protection |
I would worry about anything that is not positive make or break.
If something shorts you want it out , not coming back on when it feels like it.
in some ways the GA ideas are the best,
Regards
Mike
>>> larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com 02/21/01 09:19PM >>>
Wouldn't ya know it ! ! ! I just finished spending a small fortune on
circuit breakers for my panel - cause I don't like fuses - and now in
the new March, 2001 Kitplanes, on page 70, Jim Weir talks about the new
( ??? ) Polyswitch fuses from Raychem. They're a carbon in polymer
device that melts at a given load and breaks contact. When they cool,
they re-solidify and start carrying current again. If the short
continues, they have a bypass that'll keep them melted. Reliability
reports show 10 failures per BILLION hours of operation. Good enuf for
government work, I guess. Best of all - these things cost from .65
cents to $1.25 each, depending on load range. I'm having some strange
glitches with this beast of mine tonight, and couldn't access all of
Raychem's website. ( http://www.raychem.com ) Weir lists Mouser (
http://www.mouser.com ) as a source, but they don't show them, so I
emailed a question to them. Also shows digikey as a supplier (
http://www.digikey.com ) but I couldn't open their site. ( See John,
you're not the only one I'm having problems with ) Folks, you had best
be for believing that this ol' boy is gonna go right after more info on
these ! ! ! My breakers are still in their packages, and can be
returned. No holes drilled yet for them, either. If anyone else can
get more info on these things, I'd sure like to hear it.
Excited Lar.
P.S. Didja read his recent column on Personal Digital Assistant/GPS
navigators ?? Sounds real good, and more coming next month. The times,
they are a-changin'. Yabba-Dabba-Doooooooooo....................!
! ! Aaaaaaand.....................Catalina this Saturday, and
EAA Chapter 1's Flabob fly-in on Sunday ! ! ! ! !
Go-Gettin' Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
Michael E Foley
THERMA-WAVE
Field Service Engineer
Western Region
Phone: 510-687-3505
Cell Phone:510-520-5579
Pager: 800-771-9214
Fax: 1-510-353-0130
E-Mail: MFoley(at)thermawave.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | Re:de buring tool |
> I took 400
> grit emery paper and took the edges off, by cupping the
emery paper and
> just spinning the tube. Interior edge taken off by
depressing the emery
> paper in the center of tube and spinning. Smooth as you
could ever want
> it.
>Get yourself a deburring tool....abt $4-5 fo a useful one.
Makes
>really quick work of the tube edges.....like about 3
seconds...
>J.Baker
you can pick up a deburing tool at plumbing suply
places. normaly used for reaming out copper pipe. some
even have replaceable tips
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Morning Gang:
It will help if we add our telephone numbers to the list of
info for the Kolb Roster. I am sure I have flown right
through some of your home towns, landed at your home
airports, and did not know it.
My general route of flight for the Barrow trip is:
Titus, Alabama
Tuscaloosa, Alabama
Memphis, Tennessee
Kansas City, Mo
Souix City, Iowa
Carrington, ND
Minot, ND
Estevan, Saskatchawon
Davidson, Sas
Saskatoon, Sas
Edgmonton, Alberta
Whitecourt, Al
Grand Prairie, Al
Dawson Creek, BC
Up the Alaska Highway to Fairbanks, Alaska
Coldfoot, Ak
Dead Horse, Ak
Helmericks (pvt), Ak
Barrow, Ak
Aprx 4,800 miles to Barrow.
64 flight hours. 8 days at 8 flight hours per day (ideal
weather and no mechanical problems)
300 gals 100LL
$750.00 for gas.
Additional expenses include food, occassional motel (at
least once or twice a week to get a shower).
Still got to figure return flight to Oshkosh and finally
home to Titus, Alabama. Will be more than 10,000 miles
total.
Will give myself 30 days to fly to Barrow and back Oshkosh.
Seven more days at OSH and two days home to Alabama, for a
total of 39 days. My 1994 flight was 17,400 miles in 41
days, but I didn't stop off at OSH, and I didn't let any
grass grow under my feet. I got back home and 10 days later
loaded up and took off for OSH. In less than 60 days me and
Miss P'fer flew almost 20,000 miles. What a little
airplane. :-)
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dama" <dama(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Database Growing |
Database is up to 40 representing 22 states in less than 24 hours. Seems
like we may be flying in all 50! Many are without phone numbers and some
without E-mail addresses. When I get it online, we can fine tune the info.
Sincereley,
Kip Laurie
Firestar II
Atlanta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Database Growing |
Many are without phone numbers and some
> without E-mail addresses.
> Kip Laurie
Kip and Gang:
How did you get their infor without an email address if they
emailed you the info (scratching my head)?
john h
DOD NOT ARCHIVE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Foley" <mfoley(at)Thermawave.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Database Growing |
Kip give me a call
on my work number if you need any help on this
Mike
Michael E Foley
THERMA-WAVE
Field Service Engineer
Western Region
Phone: 510-687-3505
Cell Phone:510-520-5579
Pager: 800-771-9214
Fax: 1-510-353-0130
E-Mail: MFoley(at)thermawave.com
>>> dama(at)mindspring.com 02/22/01 10:09AM >>>
Database is up to 40 representing 22 states in less than 24 hours. Seems
like we may be flying in all 50! Many are without phone numbers and some
without E-mail addresses. When I get it online, we can fine tune the info.
Sincereley,
Kip Laurie
Firestar II
Atlanta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Minewiser" <flykolb(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Jim Minewiser
Charlotte, NC
Mark III, 503 DCDI
200 hrs on airframe, 120 are mine
flykolb(at)carolina.rr.com
704-510-1339
----- Original Message -----
From: "dama" <dama(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 9:29 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Database
>
> Kolb Listers,
> After 5 attempts to meet anyone from the Kolb List in 5 areas of the
> country, I am wondering where everyone is! We are apparently more
scattered
> than I thought. I have thought of compiling a database of Kolb people,
> organized by state and posted monthly with updates. I am willing to do
this
> because I think it might benefit all of us if we travel to where another
> builder/pilot may be. A printout in the shop may be handy for quick
building
> advice also. So, if you would like to participate, I am starting with this
> basic info: (consider any of it optional or suggest other info)
>
> Name
> City/State
> Kolb Model/Engine
> Hours on Airframe
> E-mail address
>
> Email me at dama(at)mindspring.com
>
> Kip Laurie
> Atlanta, GA
> Firestar II/R503
> 53 hours
> dama(at)mindspring.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Link to Pictures of my damaged Twinstar MkII |
Hey Noel
The Kolb looks pretty bad but once you get the skin off it and the
damaged parts removed you will see there is not a lot of work putting it
back into shape. At least compared to the first time. Mine was worse off
and it went together pretty easily the second time around.
>Hello All,
>
>Once again a link to my WWW site (The link should work this time, thanks
>Larry !)
>
>http://www3.sympatico.ca/noelbou
>
>Noel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
> In less than 60 days me and
>Miss P'fer flew almost 20,000 miles. What a little
>airplane. :-)
>
>Take care,
>
>john h
YOU DA MAN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vince Nicely" <vincenicely(at)chartertn.net> |
| Subject: | Re: dune buggy seats |
I have used a plastic molded seat made for fishing boats and sold by
WalMart. It is contoured shape like the fiberglass shells I have seen but
is much lighter. I removed the metal swivel base from the seat and did a
little trimming of the plastic to make it fit. Have later added foam
cushions and an aircushion in the bottom. Makes a comfortable seat.
Vince Nicely
Firestar II (284 hours)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Russell" <john(at)rometool.com> |
| Subject: | Re: dune buggy seats |
Possum came up with a nice seat, sits nice, looks good, and it does not
weigh that
much. He used a office chair with very little mods.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Vince Nicely" <vincenicely(at)chartertn.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2001 2:57 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: dune buggy seats
>
> I have used a plastic molded seat made for fishing boats and sold by
> WalMart. It is contoured shape like the fiberglass shells I have seen but
> is much lighter. I removed the metal swivel base from the seat and did a
> little trimming of the plastic to make it fit. Have later added foam
> cushions and an aircushion in the bottom. Makes a comfortable seat.
>
> Vince Nicely
> Firestar II (284 hours)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dale Seitzer <dale(at)gmada.com> |
| Subject: | Kolb vs Quicksilver |
My wife and I had the opportunity to visit my parents in Phoenix for a week
and we took a short trip to the Buckeye Airport--Arizona Ultralights.
Bettie was going to get a lesson--see the countryside and I would get a
check ride and rent a Quicksilver Sport. One of Scotts solo students had
a rough landing (the first one in 500 students) so the Sport was
unavailable. We would both get the chance to see AZ from an ultralight
trainer with Scott. My Firestar suits what I like to do best. The Quick
is not Quick--we flew about 45 mph--that slow speed is what makes it a
popular trainer. One needs 5500 rpm to maintain level flight! Landings
are a breeze--point down and you don't speed up --pull back near the ground
and fly close to the ground=perfect landing. I think I could pick up some
bad habits. It could turn on a dime (not surprising with such a slow
speed) climb was much less than a Firestar with the 503 and 2 people on
board. I was not sure how I would do with the side stick like the Mark
III but it was easy to adjust and I could soon spend more attention on the
scenery. Flying the Quicksilver was kinda like driving a 1972 Oldsmobile
98--not too fast, wallows around a bit, soft and comfy.
It was warm on the ground 50 degrees and warmer in the air! A clear day
with very few clouds and light winds that were stronger at altitude. The
plane is really set up for training--huge tundra tires and extra beefing up
of the frame with very few instruments--just a Hall airspeed indicator out
infront of your feet.
I recommend everyone get an opportuinity to fly other machines--it will
make you appreciate what you have. Dale Seitzer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Database Growing |
I guess all this needs is a phone #. 760-324-7646.
larrybiglar(at)msn.com
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "dama" <dama(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2001 10:09 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Database Growing
>
> Database is up to 40 representing 22 states in less than 24 hours. Seems
> like we may be flying in all 50! Many are without phone numbers and some
> without E-mail addresses. When I get it online, we can fine tune the info.
> Sincereley,
> Kip Laurie
> Firestar II
> Atlanta
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary r. voigt" <johndeereantique(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb vs Quicksilver |
Dale and bettie, how are you doing. I enjoyed your post. I have only been
up one more time since we meet on lake mtka. it was 7 deg. f, "cold" I thinking
of buying an old quicksilver (1981) that i have scouted out in wi. good cond.
only drawback is the 30 hp. cuyuna and not 3-axis so it would tough in a cross
wind, any advice about the older ones or should I leave it alone.
thanks,
Gary r. voigt
Dale Seitzer wrote:
>
> My wife and I had the opportunity to visit my parents in Phoenix for a week
> and we took a short trip to the Buckeye Airport--Arizona Ultralights.
> Bettie was going to get a lesson--see the countryside and I would get a
> check ride and rent a Quicksilver Sport. One of Scotts solo students had
> a rough landing (the first one in 500 students) so the Sport was
> unavailable. We would both get the chance to see AZ from an ultralight
> trainer with Scott. My Firestar suits what I like to do best. The Quick
> is not Quick--we flew about 45 mph--that slow speed is what makes it a
> popular trainer. One needs 5500 rpm to maintain level flight! Landings
> are a breeze--point down and you don't speed up --pull back near the ground
> and fly close to the ground=perfect landing. I think I could pick up some
> bad habits. It could turn on a dime (not surprising with such a slow
> speed) climb was much less than a Firestar with the 503 and 2 people on
> board. I was not sure how I would do with the side stick like the Mark
> III but it was easy to adjust and I could soon spend more attention on the
> scenery. Flying the Quicksilver was kinda like driving a 1972 Oldsmobile
> 98--not too fast, wallows around a bit, soft and comfy.
> It was warm on the ground 50 degrees and warmer in the air! A clear day
> with very few clouds and light winds that were stronger at altitude. The
> plane is really set up for training--huge tundra tires and extra beefing up
> of the frame with very few instruments--just a Hall airspeed indicator out
> infront of your feet.
> I recommend everyone get an opportuinity to fly other machines--it will
> make you appreciate what you have. Dale Seitzer
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary r. voigt" <johndeereantique(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb vs Quicksilver |
opps!!! did not mean to put this on the list. go ahead and cuss me out on
the
quicksilver with the cuyuna, I still like them even though i have never flown one.
as long as i posted this on the list now, please give me your recommendation on
theses units. sorry this is not kolb related.
thanks,
Gary r. voigt
"Gary r. voigt" wrote:
>
> Dale and bettie, how are you doing. I enjoyed your post. I have only been
> up one more time since we meet on lake mtka. it was 7 deg. f, "cold" I thinking
> of buying an old quicksilver (1981) that i have scouted out in wi. good cond.
> only drawback is the 30 hp. cuyuna and not 3-axis so it would tough in a cross
> wind, any advice about the older ones or should I leave it alone.
>
> thanks,
> Gary r. voigt
>
> Dale Seitzer wrote:
>
> >
> > My wife and I had the opportunity to visit my parents in Phoenix for a week
> > and we took a short trip to the Buckeye Airport--Arizona Ultralights.
> > Bettie was going to get a lesson--see the countryside and I would get a
> > check ride and rent a Quicksilver Sport. One of Scotts solo students had
> > a rough landing (the first one in 500 students) so the Sport was
> > unavailable. We would both get the chance to see AZ from an ultralight
> > trainer with Scott. My Firestar suits what I like to do best. The Quick
> > is not Quick--we flew about 45 mph--that slow speed is what makes it a
> > popular trainer. One needs 5500 rpm to maintain level flight! Landings
> > are a breeze--point down and you don't speed up --pull back near the ground
> > and fly close to the ground=perfect landing. I think I could pick up some
> > bad habits. It could turn on a dime (not surprising with such a slow
> > speed) climb was much less than a Firestar with the 503 and 2 people on
> > board. I was not sure how I would do with the side stick like the Mark
> > III but it was easy to adjust and I could soon spend more attention on the
> > scenery. Flying the Quicksilver was kinda like driving a 1972 Oldsmobile
> > 98--not too fast, wallows around a bit, soft and comfy.
> > It was warm on the ground 50 degrees and warmer in the air! A clear day
> > with very few clouds and light winds that were stronger at altitude. The
> > plane is really set up for training--huge tundra tires and extra beefing up
> > of the frame with very few instruments--just a Hall airspeed indicator out
> > infront of your feet.
> > I recommend everyone get an opportuinity to fly other machines--it will
> > make you appreciate what you have. Dale Seitzer
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Howard Shackleford
Lexington, SC
Firestar I [7 ribs], 503 DCDI
190 hours
HShack(at)aol.com [yeah, I know...]
[803] 359-1136
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clay Stuart" <cstuart(at)searnet.com> |
Dear Julian,
I will take credit for the suggestion of scoring the aluminum for gussets
with a utility knife and breaking it over the edge of a table. I used a
paper cutter for the shorter cuts after breaking the longer pieces.
Some other things that I have found useful:
1. Drill stop from Aircraft Spruce (p.n. 12-08900) @ $2.35. A built-in
spring on the stop, cushions the "break through", besides limiting the
depth. Depth limiting is especially valuable when drilling the 5/16"
tubing.
2. Buy at least three sizes of alumimun angle stock at your hardware store.
The largest size is 1" or more on a side and is good to use on the wing spar
and fuselage tube to draw a straight and parallel line to the tube. The
smaller two sizes work great on the smaller tubing of the tail feathers and
leading and trailing edges of the wings. I used the stock to draw the
tangent line to attach the ribs on the elevator and rudder. After finding
the tangent point where the ribs touched the tubing,
it was easy to lay the angle stock on those marks and draw a straight line
for drilling the rivet holes. Same for attaching the hinges.
3. I used some small pieces of the stock to modify a pair of vice grips to
flatten the 5/16" tubing. Someone mentioned using a key (kind used to lock
a pulley on a shaft) to get the 3/16" stop dimension (after I had fashioned
mine). I used JB Weld to bond the aluminum stock onto the jaws to make a
flat surface and made a 3/16" stop of aluminum 1/2" deep in the jaws for the
proper length. Final dressing of the opening can be made with a standard
file which just happens to be 3/16" thick. Flatten one end of the rib, hold
the flat end down on the table, clamp the free end with the vise grips,
making certain you are perpendicular to the floor, and flatten the other
end.
Clay Stuart
Danville KY
Building wings on Mark IIIXtra
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ZepRep251(at)aol.com |
Gary Aman Akron Ohio44319 FS2 80Hrs 503dcdi 330-644-1174
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Circuit Protection |
It would be best to read the article. It's well presented, and I just
quoted a piece of it last night. Since I already have switches for each
component, along with indicator lights for each on the panel, seems to me
that these little goodies are made to order. I have 1 other small problem
too...........In order to make room for the breakers ( Potter & Brumfield )
to fit, I'll have to pull the tach & ASI out, and sand 1/16+" off the top of
the mounting flanges, to make room for those breakers. I don't think it
would hurt them, but it would be a real job at this point, and I'm
definitely checking further on those Polyswitches. Mouser hasn't answered
last nights' email yet. We'll see. Big Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Foley" <mfoley(at)Thermawave.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2001 7:22 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Circuit Protection
>
> I would worry about anything that is not positive make or break.
> If something shorts you want it out , not coming back on when it feels
like it.
> in some ways the GA ideas are the best,
>
> Regards
> Mike
> >>> larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com 02/21/01 09:19PM >>>
>
> Wouldn't ya know it ! ! ! I just finished spending a small fortune on
> circuit breakers for my panel - cause I don't like fuses - and now in
> the new March, 2001 Kitplanes, on page 70, Jim Weir talks about the new
> ( ??? ) Polyswitch fuses from Raychem. They're a carbon in polymer
> device that melts at a given load and breaks contact. When they cool,
> they re-solidify and start carrying current again. If the short
> continues, they have a bypass that'll keep them melted. Reliability
> reports show 10 failures per BILLION hours of operation. Good enuf for
> government work, I guess. Best of all - these things cost from .65
> cents to $1.25 each, depending on load range. I'm having some strange
> glitches with this beast of mine tonight, and couldn't access all of
> Raychem's website. ( http://www.raychem.com ) Weir lists Mouser (
> http://www.mouser.com ) as a source, but they don't show them, so I
> emailed a question to them. Also shows digikey as a supplier (
> http://www.digikey.com ) but I couldn't open their site. ( See John,
> you're not the only one I'm having problems with ) Folks, you had best
> be for believing that this ol' boy is gonna go right after more info on
> these ! ! ! My breakers are still in their packages, and can be
> returned. No holes drilled yet for them, either. If anyone else can
> get more info on these things, I'd sure like to hear it.
> Excited Lar.
>
> P.S. Didja read his recent column on Personal Digital Assistant/GPS
> navigators ?? Sounds real good, and more coming next month. The times,
> they are a-changin'. Yabba-Dabba-Doooooooooo....................!
> ! ! Aaaaaaand.....................Catalina this Saturday, and
> EAA Chapter 1's Flabob fly-in on Sunday ! ! ! ! !
> Go-Gettin' Lar.
>
> Larry Bourne
> Palm Springs, Ca.
> Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
> http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
>
>
> Michael E Foley
> THERMA-WAVE
> Field Service Engineer
> Western Region
> Phone: 510-687-3505
> Cell Phone:510-520-5579
> Pager: 800-771-9214
> Fax: 1-510-353-0130
> E-Mail: MFoley(at)thermawave.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WillUribe(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Clean windshield |
In a message dated 2/22/01 10:32:56 AM Eastern Standard Time,
howard.ping(at)gte.net writes:
> Will
> How do you keep your windshield so clean.
> Photo's were great.
> Howard
> FS2
In the hanger I keep my windshield covered with a parachute that in it's
pervious life was used in artillery shells. After firing and when the round
gets to it's apex the parachute pops out and floats a flare in the air. The
parachute is the right size for FS's windshield.
Dave rounds up the parachutes so wildlife won't get tangled in them. Maybe he
can make you a deal on army surplus ;-)
To clean the windshield I purchased a lexan cleaning paste from one of the
local motorcycle dealers.
Regards,
Will
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WillUribe(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Digital camera |
In a message dated 2/22/01 11:06:37 AM Eastern Standard Time,
mfoley(at)Thermawave.com writes:
> These are great
> What kind of camera are you using?
> mike
I use an Olympus D-360L digital camera. My only regret is I didn't one with
an optical zoom. The digital zoom doesn't work to my satisfaction.
Will
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> |
\"Hans Gentry\"" <layfayette@orofino-id.com>
I've been inspired, both by Will Uribe's usual beautiful job on his
evening flight, and by a visit last Monday by Frank & Chris Reynen, from
Discovery Bay, Calif. It was really nice to see them, and they went
over Vamoose with a fine toothed comb. They didn't seem horrified, so
maybe it isn't too bad, after all. Frank's Mk III is, I believe, #2, so
he & Homer go way back. Frank showed me several places on my plane
where improvements had been made after experience with his. Veddddy
Interesting ! ! ! When I went on vacation in the summer of '98,
Discovery Bay was my 1st major stop, and Frank took me for a ride over a
portion of the Sacramento Delta area in his plane. At that time, it
still had the 582 for power, and Full Lotus Floats. Nice combination,
and it flew well, tho' he now has a 912 for power. I showed up at their
home with a freshly caught, massive cold, and instead of kicking me out,
we went for a ride, tho' at only 300 - 400', since I was plugged solid.
From the highway, you'll see some marshes, and fields, and lots of flat
land. Ho-Hum ! ! ! In the air, it's a whole different story.
I was fascinated by the way vacation homes will be clustered on a small
island, or in a little cove, such as in Delta 1.
http://www.flyingpics.homestead.com/files/r_delta_1.jpg
Delta 2 shows some kind of flotilla, I think. Seems to me that Frank
told me what it is, but I think I've had a Senior Moment, and it eludes
me. Cool, whatever it is.
http://www.flyingpics.homestead.com/files/r_delta_2.jpg
Delta 3 shows Stockton, CA, in the upper right, and the nose of a float
in the lower portion.
http://www.flyingpics.homestead.com/files/r_delta_3.jpg
It was a fantastic flight, a great education, and a great start to what
turned out to be one heck of a vacation, that covered over 5000 miles in
3 weeks. Enjoy. Big Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: dune buggy seats |
<< Possum came up with a nice seat, sits nice, looks good, and it does not weigh
that much. He used a office chair with very little mods. >>
I'll second that. Possum's seat is semi-reclined with full back support, cushioned
back and butt. His office chair was one of the really nice ones. I've done
the same thing in my FSII but used a cheapy office chair - $19.95 on sale from
Office Depot. I used the seat bottom and the separate back mounted to the sling
seat back framework. I had to use an automotive lumber support cushion for
better back support.
ulflyer
FSII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dama" <dama(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Database Update |
60 folks are now on file. Florida and North Carolina are tied for 1st in
terms of numbers. Minnesota is a close second.
Kip Laurie
Atlanta
________________________________________________________________________________
Rick Klebon Firestar II Rotax 447 135 hours Salisbury, Md
BKlebon4(at)cs.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb vs Quicksilver |
Well, since you asked, my brother in law has a 1980 MX with a Cuyuna and it
is a nice flyer. His has a three axis mod whereby you convert the rudder pedals
to actually be rudder pedals, the stick controls the elevators and the spoilers
in the normal fashion, and then there is a spring loaded "flap lever" that
allows
you to deploy both spoilers at the same time, while retaining the stick
control.
It feels so conventional that I think Quicksilver should have made it standard.
It is a very nice flyer, just slow. The cuyuna is sufficient. Crosswind
ability is
marginal, but it lands so slow, you can land across the runway, so who cares?
My brother in law's is like new, and he is thinking of selling it, but I
keep talking
him out of it. It is worth more than it would bring.
Think "slow, open/no cockpit Firestar with less control authority in wind and
turbulence" and you have his MX.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Kingsport, Tn (3TN0)
>
> opps!!! did not mean to put this on the list. go ahead and cuss me out
>on the
>quicksilver with the cuyuna, I still like them even though i have never
>flown one.
>as long as i posted this on the list now, please give me your
recommendation on
>theses units. sorry this is not kolb related.
>
> thanks,
> Gary r. voigt
>"Gary r. voigt" wrote:
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | 2 stroke operations |
Gentlemen:
The NTSB recently reported this accident, it is not a Kolb, but I
think there is a good lesson to be learned.
NTSB Identification: ATL01LA034
Accident occurred Saturday, February 10, 2001 at Homestead, FL
Aircraft:McDaniel Jack Rans S-12, registration: N823S
Injuries: 1 Serious, 1 Uninjured.
This is preliminary information, subject to change, and may contain errors.
Any errors in this report will be corrected when the final report has been
completed.
On February 10, 2001, at 1009 eastern standard time, an amateur built Rans
S-12, N823S, collided with the ground while attempting to takeoff from a
plowed farm field, in Homestead, Florida. The experimental airplane was
operated by the private pilot under the provisions of Title 14 CFR Part 91,
and visual flight rules. Visual meteorological conditions prevailed and no
flight plan was filed for the personal flight. The pilot sustained serious
injuries; the passenger was not injured and the airplane was substantially
damaged. The flight was originating at the time of the accident.
According to the passenger, (the pilot's wife) they had originally taken off
from Homestead Regional Dade County Airport and shortly after takeoff, the
airplane lost power and the pilot landed in the plowed field. The pilot
examined the engine and felt that he could takeoff. During the takeoff, the
engine again lost power and the airplane crashed nose down in the field.
Point: It is a shame that after 10 years of accumulated experience 2
stroke pilots are still being bitten by a failure scenario that everyone
should understand. It is, I hope, now widely understood by Kolb operators
that Rotax engines will frequently run, albeit not very well, after they have
had a seizure. When the engine cools down sufficiently it will unseize and
can be started. This causes the unwary pilot to attempt to fly a second time
and subsequent seizure is assured shortly after takeoff.
The proposition which can be distilled from this experience is this:
Thou shalt not fly on a two stoke engine that has ceased to run for unknown
reasons until you have examined it for evidence of seizure.
General aviation pilots continue to kill themselves in significant
numbers by 1) running out of gas and 2) flying VFR into IMC. These accident
scenarios persist despite the FAA's and other groups best efforts to educate
folks. We two stroke operators have our own persistent accident scenarios we
need to guard against.
Mark R. Sellers
Kolb Twinstar Mark III
N496BM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Peer <quick503(at)yahoo.com> |
Michael Peer MK III rebuild 582 Floats (maybe)
New Iberia, La
quick503(at)yahoo.com
=====
This Information could save you both time and money!
Please visit my website at http://www.jemcomputersolutions.com
Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices! http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sam Cox" <lightflyer(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Lake Texoma Ultralight Gathering houseing June 22 -24, 2001 |
LAKE TEXOMA ULTRALIGHT GATHERING
June 22 - 24, 2001
Sheppard AFB Recreational Annex Gordonville, TX
Details and satellite photo of the grounds at:
Http://www.dfwliteflyers.org
For those that want accommodations on the event site, there are only 12
cabins left available. If you know
you are coming you need to make a reservation NOW and no later than Feb.
28th. Call Ann at 1-903-523-4613 ($40 per night/ 2 night min.) you must
tell her you are with the ultralight fly-in. If you wait you will have to
get rooms 10 to 20 miles away. I will post contact numbers for those
accommodations later.
Sam Cox
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Peer <quick503(at)yahoo.com> |
Does anyone have any pictures or video of a MK III in
level flight? I'm curious about how high the tail is
in relation to say the engine mount flanges on the
fuselage. Generally an airplane is put in level flight
attitude for weighing but the plans call for a 9
degree angle between the leading and trailing edge.
That puts the tail down low and the airplane in (I'm
assuming) a climb attitude. I would figure that the
thrust line of the engine would be parallel to the
mounting flanges on the fuselage which looks like it's
parallel to the main round support tube. Any thoughts?
Mike
=====
This Information could save you both time and money!
Please visit my website at http://www.jemcomputersolutions.com
Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices! http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Currie <bnb(at)erols.com> |
Bob Currie
Hollywood Maryland
Firestar II/503
Zero hours on airframe
BnB(at)erols.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)state.mi.us> |
I don't have any photos of my MKIII in level flight but when you look at the bottom
surface of the wing in comparison to the horizon it looks much less than
9 degrees. I have my VW setup so that the thrust line is in line with the bottom
surface of the wing. The last thing I want is to have the thrust line set so
that any thrust is pushing the plane down. Also configuring the thrust line
this way puts more of the prop blast on the tail. I'm not sure this is all good
but it seems that it might make the tail controls more effective at low air
speeds when the power is on.
Rick Neilsen
VW powered MKIII
>>> quick503(at)yahoo.com 02/23/01 01:08PM >>>
Does anyone have any pictures or video of a MK III in
level flight? I'm curious about how high the tail is
in relation to say the engine mount flanges on the
fuselage. Generally an airplane is put in level flight
attitude for weighing but the plans call for a 9
degree angle between the leading and trailing edge.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Database Growing |
Please enter the following;
John Bruzan
133 e Gregory
Mt Prospect
IL 60056
847-824-4473
Firestar II 503 SCDI
# N25029
85hr since new
Also,
steve marquette
mt prospect
illinois
1324 w central
FIRESTAR II
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ronoy <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
Web site for Sun n' Fun www.sun-n-fun.org
bn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vic" <vicw(at)vcn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 24 Msgs - 02/21/01 |
Anyone know how to convert barometric pressure to millibars.
Vic
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ronoy <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
Vic,
Multiply inches of Mercury by 33.86 to get hectopascals
multiply hectopascals by 1.000 to get millibars
Divide mb by 33.86 to get inches
and 14.7 psi=29.92 inches
bn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Alexander <gtalexander(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 24 Msgs - 02/21/01 |
Vic wrote:
>
>
> Anyone know how to convert barometric pressure to millibars.
>
> Vic
>
Vic:
1" Mercury = 33.86388 millibars
1 millibar = 0.02952999" mercury
A friend of mine gave a neat little program called Convert.
It will convert just about anything you can think of (and
some things you wouldn't/couldn't think of). It came from a
web site: http://www.joshmadison.com/software/ and the
statement is that it is free to use.
George Alexander
http://gtalexander.home.att.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cim & Tindy" <townsend(at)webound.com> |
Dama,,
Tim Townsend
Lebanon, MO. USA
Kolb III 582 GSC 68"
290 hrs. completed on the Plane.
Almost ready to cover.
townsend(at)webound.com
Our Best
Tim & Cindy Townsend
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Shellberg" <shelfarm(at)netins.net> |
Gary Shellberg
Red Oak, Iowa
(712)767-2379 eve
(712)623-9343 day
shelfarm(at)netins.net
Original Firestar
377 Rotax 189 hrs
Right along your planned route, John.
----- Original Message -----
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2001 9:52 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Kolb Roster
>
> Morning Gang:
>
> It will help if we add our telephone numbers to the list of
> info for the Kolb Roster. I am sure I have flown right
> through some of your home towns, landed at your home
> airports, and did not know it.
>
> My general route of flight for the Barrow trip is:
>
> Titus, Alabama
> Tuscaloosa, Alabama
> Memphis, Tennessee
> Kansas City, Mo
> Souix City, Iowa
> Carrington, ND
> Minot, ND
> Estevan, Saskatchawon
> Davidson, Sas
> Saskatoon, Sas
> Edgmonton, Alberta
> Whitecourt, Al
> Grand Prairie, Al
> Dawson Creek, BC
> Up the Alaska Highway to Fairbanks, Alaska
> Coldfoot, Ak
> Dead Horse, Ak
> Helmericks (pvt), Ak
> Barrow, Ak
>
> Aprx 4,800 miles to Barrow.
> 64 flight hours. 8 days at 8 flight hours per day (ideal
> weather and no mechanical problems)
> 300 gals 100LL
> $750.00 for gas.
>
> Additional expenses include food, occassional motel (at
> least once or twice a week to get a shower).
>
> Still got to figure return flight to Oshkosh and finally
> home to Titus, Alabama. Will be more than 10,000 miles
> total.
>
> Will give myself 30 days to fly to Barrow and back Oshkosh.
> Seven more days at OSH and two days home to Alabama, for a
> total of 39 days. My 1994 flight was 17,400 miles in 41
> days, but I didn't stop off at OSH, and I didn't let any
> grass grow under my feet. I got back home and 10 days later
> loaded up and took off for OSH. In less than 60 days me and
> Miss P'fer flew almost 20,000 miles. What a little
> airplane. :-)
>
> Take care,
>
> john h
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Monte Evans" <n65me(at)peoplepc.com> |
Monte Evans
MarkIII 912
Dallas, GA
Airplane at Ayresouth Airport-0GA3
0 hours, still building.
Webpage http://monteevans.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Chmielewski" <edchmiel(at)mindspring.com> |
For the database:
Ed Chmielewski
MkII 503 SCSI
130 hrs. on Hobbs, 0 with me
Jackson, MI
517-782-6782
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WillUribe(at)aol.com |
Here are a few pictures
http://www.muhlon.com/~mainline/images/Kolbfly2.jpg
http://www.brigham.net/~byoung/Pic00200.JPG
http://www.webcom.com/reynen/jvn04.jpg
In a message dated 2/23/01 1:10:03 PM Eastern Standard Time,
quick503(at)yahoo.com writes:
> Does anyone have any pictures or video of a MK III in
> level flight? I'm curious about how high the tail is
> in relation to say the engine mount flanges on the
> fuselage. Generally an airplane is put in level flight
> attitude for weighing but the plans call for a 9
> degree angle between the leading and trailing edge.
> That puts the tail down low and the airplane in (I'm
> assuming) a climb attitude. I would figure that the
> thrust line of the engine would be parallel to the
> mounting flanges on the fuselage which looks like it's
> parallel to the main round support tube. Any thoughts?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> |
The 1st & 2nd pics show a lower tail, and a greater angle of attack than I
would have expected. Interesting. The 3rd pic is Frank Reynen in the
Kolb he took me for a ride in.............the day I took the pics I
published last night. Looks like a pretty hairy chested ride he's on
there. Go Gittum, Frank. Admiring Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
----- Original Message -----
From: <WillUribe(at)aol.com>
Sent: Friday, February 23, 2001 6:57 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Pictures
>
> Here are a few pictures
> http://www.muhlon.com/~mainline/images/Kolbfly2.jpg
> http://www.brigham.net/~byoung/Pic00200.JPG
> http://www.webcom.com/reynen/jvn04.jpg
>
>
> In a message dated 2/23/01 1:10:03 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> quick503(at)yahoo.com writes:
>
>
> > Does anyone have any pictures or video of a MK III in
> > level flight? I'm curious about how high the tail is
> > in relation to say the engine mount flanges on the
> > fuselage. Generally an airplane is put in level flight
> > attitude for weighing but the plans call for a 9
> > degree angle between the leading and trailing edge.
> > That puts the tail down low and the airplane in (I'm
> > assuming) a climb attitude. I would figure that the
> > thrust line of the engine would be parallel to the
> > mounting flanges on the fuselage which looks like it's
> > parallel to the main round support tube. Any thoughts?
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> |
The other night, I mentioned the Polyswitch fuses that Jim Weir talks
about in the current Kitplanes magazine. I emailed Mouser the same
night, and this is the reply I received today. I trust Jim Weir's
opinion, but I do have a question for you engineer types on
board...................eg......the 14 amp RGE series shows a lead size
of 18 AWG. Obviously ( ?? ) must be OK, or they wouldn't be selling it
- I guess - but I would have expected a larger lead size. Anyone ??
Price sure does look right, doesn't it ?? I think I might just have
to buy the "Bourns" brand, just on general principles, eh ??
Big Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
----- Original Message -----
From: Shay Rodgers
Sent: Friday, February 23, 2001 1:55 PM
Subject: FW: Quick Quote
Mr. Bourne,
Thank you for your inquiry to Mouser Electronics. We are a distributor
of Raychem Polyswitch resettable fuses. We also carry the Bourns
Multifuse resettable fuses. I have attached our catalog pages below
that pertain to these items. If you would like to place an order, or if
we can be of further assistance, please feel free to contact us.
Sincerely,
Shay Rodgers
Technical Sales Rep
Mouser Electronics
800-346-6873
tech(at)mouser.com
http://www.mouser.com/catalog/cat_605/365.pdf
http://www.mouser.com/catalog/cat_605/366.pdf
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Bourne [mailto:Larry Bourne]
Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 10:56 PM
Subject: Quick Quote
Mouser Electronics Quick Quote
Buyer:
Larry Bourne
Business Type:
Part #:
Manufacturer:
Raychem
Quantity Requested:
Target Cost:
E-mail:
larrybiglar(at)msn.com
Phone:
760-324-7646
How to contact:
E-mail
Additional Notes:
In Mar/2001 Kitplanes magazine, Jim Weir recommends you as a source
for Raychem's Polyswitch fuses. They don't show in your catalog. ( ????
)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Database Update |
Charles "Chuck" Reinert
Edgefield, SC
FS I
70 hours
Nuclearsrs(at)cs.com
[803]275-2727
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cim & Tindy" <townsend(at)webound.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Quick Quote |
Larry could this be because when you rate
a normal load you pick a fuse or circuit breaker
twice the normal load. So 7 amps would work for
18 AWG wire. Sorry for butting in. I just love this list
now that I am getting closer.. You are still ahead of me.
I can't catch up. Nice web site.
Our Best
Tim & Cindy Townsend
----- Original Message -----
From: "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com>
Sent: Friday, February 23, 2001 10:02 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Fw: Quick Quote
>
> The other night, I mentioned the Polyswitch fuses that Jim Weir talks
> about in the current Kitplanes magazine. I emailed Mouser the same
> night, and this is the reply I received today. I trust Jim Weir's
> opinion, but I do have a question for you engineer types on
> board...................eg......the 14 amp RGE series shows a lead size
> of 18 AWG. Obviously ( ?? ) must be OK, or they wouldn't be selling it
> - I guess - but I would have expected a larger lead size. Anyone ??
> Price sure does look right, doesn't it ?? I think I might just have
> to buy the "Bourns" brand, just on general principles, eh ??
> Big Lar.
>
> Larry Bourne
> Palm Springs, Ca.
> Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
> http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Shay Rodgers
> To: larrybiglar(at)msn.com
> Sent: Friday, February 23, 2001 1:55 PM
> Subject: FW: Quick Quote
>
>
> Mr. Bourne,
>
>
> Thank you for your inquiry to Mouser Electronics. We are a distributor
> of Raychem Polyswitch resettable fuses. We also carry the Bourns
> Multifuse resettable fuses. I have attached our catalog pages below
> that pertain to these items. If you would like to place an order, or if
> we can be of further assistance, please feel free to contact us.
>
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Shay Rodgers
>
> Technical Sales Rep
>
> Mouser Electronics
>
> 800-346-6873
>
> tech(at)mouser.com
>
>
> http://www.mouser.com/catalog/cat_605/365.pdf
>
> http://www.mouser.com/catalog/cat_605/366.pdf
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Larry Bourne [mailto:Larry Bourne]
> Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 10:56 PM
> To: tech(at)mouser.com
> Subject: Quick Quote
>
> Mouser Electronics Quick Quote
>
> Buyer:
> Larry Bourne
>
> Business Type:
>
>
> Part #:
>
>
> Manufacturer:
> Raychem
>
> Quantity Requested:
>
>
> Target Cost:
>
>
> E-mail:
> larrybiglar(at)msn.com
>
> Phone:
> 760-324-7646
>
> How to contact:
> E-mail
>
> Additional Notes:
> In Mar/2001 Kitplanes magazine, Jim Weir recommends you as a source
> for Raychem's Polyswitch fuses. They don't show in your catalog. ( ????
> )
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sam Cox" <lightflyer(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Quicksilver -- non-kolb related |
"Gary r. voigt"
>
> Can anyone give me a site for quicksilvers, I need to
> know what a fair price is for 1981 mx quicksilver is. It has
> a 30 hp. cuyuna, around 40hrs. t.t. always stored inside,
> fabric is good, has throw out chute that is extra. he wants
> around $1500.00 any help greatly appreciated.
The Quicksilver guru is Mark Smith. Great sourse for information and parts
for all Quicks.
Mark Smith
Tri-State Kite Sales http://www.trikite.com
1121 N Locust St
Mt Vernon, IN 47620 mailto:mark(at)trikite.com
Sam Cox
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sam Cox" <lightflyer(at)email.msn.com> |
Sam Cox
Ft. Worth /Saginaw, TX
(817)232-3379
lightflyer(at)msn.com
FS II 503 DCDI
Building
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alice and Robert Berrie <rberrie(at)snet.net> |
| Subject: | Kolb -List Database |
Mark111/912/BRS/EIS
N350RB
104 Hrs
Robert Berrie
85 Christian Hill Rd.
Higganum, Ct. 06441
rberrie(at)snet.net
860-345-4065
860-345-8889
________________________________________________________________________________
Mark Hansen
old open twinstar, 503
Kasson MN
507-634-4864
mhqqqqq(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patty M" <pattym(at)lushen.com> |
Phil MacGregor
Ultrastar-430 Cuyuna
Marquette Mi
906-942-7480
pattym(at)lushen.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ray phillips" <harbormaster(at)raysmail.com> |
Ray Phillips
869 Yacht Club Dr.
Ocean Pines Md. 21811
harbormaster(at)raysmail.com
410-208-DOCK(3625)
1984 Ultrastar/under total re-hab!
I'll be talking to you all soon for help.
Thank You Ray
Get you FREE Firstname email address at http://www.Firstname.com
Get a FREE Cell Phone at http://www.freecellphonedeal.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: non-kolb related |
>
> Can anyone give me a site for quicksilvers, I need to
>know what a fair price is for 1981 mx quicksilver is. It has
>a 30 hp. cuyuna, around 40hrs. t.t. always stored inside,
>fabric is good, has throw out chute that is extra. he wants
>around $1500.00 any help greatly appreciated.
>
>
Sounds fair. Perhaps you can get him down a bit farther. Of course that is
a $1500 that could have gone into a firestar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Richmond" <dvrich(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: covering weight |
Thank you for the info
----- Original Message -----
From: Dennis Souder
Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 6:36 PM
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: covering weight
I should probably mention that the weights below(1/2 and 1 oz per sq.
ft.)
include the fabric and paint.
Dennis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
Dick Wood
Twinstar
Hirth2703
Lasalle Ont. Can.
519 978 0926
Dick Wood
Mk111 (heavily modified, now Mk X )
under construction
Rotax 582
Lasalle Ont. Can.
519 978 0926
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)state.mi.us> |
I agree the angle of attack is much greater than I expected. It doesn't look like
it is that much from within my plane. What do the rest of you guys think? Is
the plane in a position that just looks like it is flying with that much of
a angle of attach, or is it flying just above stall speed?
Rick Neilsen
VW powered MKIII
>>> larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com 02/23/01 10:47PM >>>
The 1st & 2nd pics show a lower tail, and a greater angle of attack than I
would have expected. Interesting.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
The MKIII always has a fairly noticeable angle of attack to it's wing even
at it's higher speeds. That noticeable angle of attack does not necessarily
mean it is close to a stall, it just flies at that angle.
In the picture of the purple MKIII, notice that the prop is perpendicular
to the horizon. Interesting to see what the wing would do if the thrust
line was changed to move the prop to a thrust line more perpendicular to
the bottom surface of the wing. One thing for sure: it would radically
change the nose up/nose down characteristics of the airplane with gross
throttle changes. Having the engine like it is relative to the wing angle
helps prevent that. You don't want an airplane that is going to respond by
pitching over when you nail the throttle at low airspeeds and altitudes
when you need to go around. I suspect that the present thrust line is a
compromise between best efficiency and best behavior. When your mojo goes
bad, good manners in an airplane are more important than maximum top speed.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>I agree the angle of attack is much greater than I expected. It doesn't look
>like it is that much from within my plane. What do the rest of you guys
>think? Is the plane in a position that just looks like it is flying with
>that much of a angle of attach, or is it flying just above stall speed?
>
>Rick Neilsen
>VW powered MKIII
>
>>>> larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com 02/23/01 10:47PM >>>
>
>The 1st & 2nd pics show a lower tail, and a greater angle of attack than I
>would have expected. Interesting.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net> |
> I agree the angle of attack is much greater than I expected. It doesn't
look like it is that much from within my plane. What do the rest of you guys
think? Is the plane in a position that just looks like it is flying with
that much of a angle of attach, or is it flying just above stall speed?
AOA will change with load weight and speed. I would guess the pictures show
fairly slow flight as is typical of formation picture flying. the wing of
Kolb is fairly low aspect ratio and has to be at a fairly high aoa to make
much lift.
Topher
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JIMMY HANKINSON <jhankin(at)planters.net> |
DOES ANYONE HAVE A E-MAIL ADDRESS FOR LIGHT SPEED AVAITION.
JIMMY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Currie <bnb(at)erols.com> |
Not sure first message arrived as it showed up addressed to ME
Bob Currie
Firestar II/ 503
Hollywood, MD
301-373-4816
bnb(at)erols.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Currie <bnb(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: e-mail address |
www.geocities.com/litespeedaviationupilot(at)mis.net This is the address
I have but you may need to phone them at 606-663-8233 As this a year
old. Bob Currie, Hollywood Md FSII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: non-kolb related |
Tis truth, Woody, but sometimes...................recently I was offered a
real nice Pterodactyl with new sails, cuyuna engine, etc. for $2200.00. I
could do it, too, but Vamoose would go on the back burner for a while,
then - possibly -- probably - I'd be so busy playing with the new toy, the
back burner would rust shut. Hadta walk away, but I've always liked the
Dac, and it was tough. Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "Woody" <duesouth(at)govital.net>
Sent: Friday, February 23, 2001 8:48 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: non-kolb related
>
> >
> > Can anyone give me a site for quicksilvers, I need to
> >know what a fair price is for 1981 mx quicksilver is. It has
> >a 30 hp. cuyuna, around 40hrs. t.t. always stored inside,
> >fabric is good, has throw out chute that is extra. he wants
> >around $1500.00 any help greatly appreciated.
> >
> >
>
> Sounds fair. Perhaps you can get him down a bit farther. Of course that is
> a $1500 that could have gone into a firestar.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Quick Quote |
Yah, and it makes sense, too...............or................Yah, I knew
that ! ! ! Guess I suffered a brain fart. Thanks. Dumbshit
Lar. Way things are going, yeah, you'll catch up. Can't find
my cover-er.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cim & Tindy" <townsend(at)webound.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2001 1:35 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Fw: Quick Quote
>
> Larry could this be because when you rate
> a normal load you pick a fuse or circuit breaker
> twice the normal load. So 7 amps would work for
> 18 AWG wire. Sorry for butting in. I just love this list
> now that I am getting closer.. You are still ahead of me.
> I can't catch up. Nice web site.
>
> Our Best
>
> Tim & Cindy Townsend
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com>
> To: "Kolb"
> Sent: Friday, February 23, 2001 10:02 PM
> Subject: Kolb-List: Fw: Quick Quote
>
>
> >
> > The other night, I mentioned the Polyswitch fuses that Jim Weir talks
> > about in the current Kitplanes magazine. I emailed Mouser the same
> > night, and this is the reply I received today. I trust Jim Weir's
> > opinion, but I do have a question for you engineer types on
> > board...................eg......the 14 amp RGE series shows a lead size
> > of 18 AWG. Obviously ( ?? ) must be OK, or they wouldn't be selling it
> > - I guess - but I would have expected a larger lead size. Anyone ??
> > Price sure does look right, doesn't it ?? I think I might just have
> > to buy the "Bourns" brand, just on general principles, eh ??
> > Big Lar.
> >
> > Larry Bourne
> > Palm Springs, Ca.
> > Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
> > http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Shay Rodgers
> > To: larrybiglar(at)msn.com
> > Sent: Friday, February 23, 2001 1:55 PM
> > Subject: FW: Quick Quote
> >
> >
> > Mr. Bourne,
> >
> >
> > Thank you for your inquiry to Mouser Electronics. We are a distributor
> > of Raychem Polyswitch resettable fuses. We also carry the Bourns
> > Multifuse resettable fuses. I have attached our catalog pages below
> > that pertain to these items. If you would like to place an order, or if
> > we can be of further assistance, please feel free to contact us.
> >
> >
> > Sincerely,
> >
> > Shay Rodgers
> >
> > Technical Sales Rep
> >
> > Mouser Electronics
> >
> > 800-346-6873
> >
> > tech(at)mouser.com
> >
> >
> > http://www.mouser.com/catalog/cat_605/365.pdf
> >
> > http://www.mouser.com/catalog/cat_605/366.pdf
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Larry Bourne [mailto:Larry Bourne]
> > Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 10:56 PM
> > To: tech(at)mouser.com
> > Subject: Quick Quote
> >
> > Mouser Electronics Quick Quote
> >
> > Buyer:
> > Larry Bourne
> >
> > Business Type:
> >
> >
> > Part #:
> >
> >
> > Manufacturer:
> > Raychem
> >
> > Quantity Requested:
> >
> >
> > Target Cost:
> >
> >
> > E-mail:
> > larrybiglar(at)msn.com
> >
> > Phone:
> > 760-324-7646
> >
> > How to contact:
> > E-mail
> >
> > Additional Notes:
> > In Mar/2001 Kitplanes magazine, Jim Weir recommends you as a source
> > for Raychem's Polyswitch fuses. They don't show in your catalog. ( ????
> > )
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Todd Thompson" <toddthom(at)wtco.net> |
| Subject: | Kolb-List Database |
MKIII/Dual Control/Ultratec/BRS/EIS
UL
155 hours
Todd Thompson
270 Peach Orchard Road
Southbury, CT 06488
ToddThom(at)wtco.net
203-264-6540
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cajwoods(at)mindspring.com |
Bill Woods
912S Slingshot (150 hrs)
Cartersville Ga.
770-382-8243
cajwoods(at)mindspring.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: non-kolb related |
In a message dated 2/24/01 7:06:11 PM Eastern Standard Time,
larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com writes:
> real nice Pterodactyl with new sails, cuyuna engine, etc. for $2200.00. I
> could do it, too, but Vamoose would go on the back burner for a while,
> then - possibly -- probably - I'd be so busy playing with the new toy, the
> back burner would rust shut. Hadta walk away, but I've always liked the
> Dac, and it was tough. Lar.
>
>
Can't agree more I had one and sold it for $2600 11 years ago. It was a good
reliable easy to fly with the engine on or off and easy to land...just
...easy and cheap to maintain....the Ascender....nice 1st plane
GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MIKE HOUSEWERT <mhousewert(at)earthlink.net> |
Kolb Mark III - 2 person
582 Rotax Liquid Cooled w/ electric starter
BRS Chute (New 11/18/00)
89.9 total hours plane and engine
For photos go to this web sight: http://www.volkswagenhomebrew.com/Kolb.htm
Full Instruments altimeter, airspeed, vertical airspeed, RPMs, CHT x 2,
EGT x 2, water temperature, water pressure, inclinometer, compass
Strobes
Warp 3 Blade Prop
12 V outlet
Electric fuel pump
Dual Throttles
4 point harness
2 5 gallons fuel tanks
Hydraulic Disc (heel) brakes
Full enclosure
Stits fabric cover - White with some blue and red
Always Hangered
Purchased end of July 2000, then trucked to The New Kolb Co. who trucked it
to their authorized airplane builder, Lite Speed Aviation in Stranton,
Kentucky. Lite Speed went through the plane top to bottom, nose to tail,
and brought everything into original specifications, including installation
of a new BRS parachute.
Paid $21,075.00, which includes the initial cost plus all the inspections,
minor repairs, new BRS parachute, and test flying by The New Kolb Companys
authorized airplane builder Lite Speed Aviation.
Asking $19,000.00
Mike Housewert
815-332-3136
815-519-3332 (Cellular Phone)
For photos go to this web sight: http://www.volkswagenhomebrew.com/Kolb.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jrodebush" <jrodebush(at)cinci.rr.com> |
The factory web site now lists Great Lakes Light Planes (gllplanes(at)aol.com)
as the U.S. agent.
Hoping to finish my living room remolding project which has (as usual) taken
3X longer than planned. Time to get back to more important projects!
Rody in Cincinnati
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
"kolb-list(at)matronics.com"
The 1st & 2nd pics show a lower tail, and a greater angle of
attack than I
would have expected. Interesting.
the picture
http://www.brigham.net/~byoung/Pic00200.JPG is me and
aprox airspeed at the time was 70 - 75 indicated
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 61 Msgs - 02/12/01 |
Thanks for the offer. Can't remember if I responded earlier, but I'm filing
this into "Vacation Contacts," and thought I'd better say something. I'll
certainly take you up on your offer this summer, and I'm really looking
forward to Oregon this year. I think I have 5 stops to make now, in Oregon,
3 in Calif., several in Wash, 2 in Montana, 1 in Utah, and 1 in Wyoming, if
I get that far. Vamoose is coming right along, and should be flying by May
or June. See ya. Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
----- Original Message -----
From: <Elbie(at)aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 9:15 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 61 Msgs - 02/12/01
>
> Big Lar,
> When you fly your Kolb to Port Angeles, WA from Palm Springs, let me know
> will buy lunch when you cross the Columbia River! A nice grass strip 2
miles
> from my place, all my friends are welcome. Lancair IV P has been in so
smooth
> enough! I keep my Cherokee there. Several Kites use it, and Drifters,
> Hyperlites, Rans. Need a Kolb to visit!
> Elbie
>
> Elbie Mendenhall
> EM aviation, LLC
> www.riteangle.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New Web site !!!! |
I've put this into my "Aircraft Info" file, and will check on it from time
to time. I enjoyed your visit yesterday, and feel bad that the weather is
so rotten for you. Why did you bring this all the way from Wisconsin with
you ?? All your fault ! ! ! Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jon Croke" <jon(at)joncroke.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2001 7:03 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: New Web site !!!!
>
> Ill take this opportunity during this 'pause' in list activity to mention
a
> website I found that should be of interest to many:
> http://www.ultralightaccidents.org
>
> It is full of great Rotax failure info amongst the other aircraft
accidents
> and the like....
>
> still cold in Green Bay
>
> Jon
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: angle of attack |
Keep tellin' ya Boyd, ya gotta get a zoom lens. To my faded old eyes, it
looks like the aoa and tail angle are about the same as the others, so it
must be true. Nothing wrong with it, I just thought the Mk III flew with
the wing flatter, and the tail higher. Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "b young" <byoung(at)brigham.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 25, 2001 10:33 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: angle of attack
>
>
> The 1st & 2nd pics show a lower tail, and a greater angle of
> attack than I
> would have expected. Interesting.
>
> the picture
> http://www.brigham.net/~byoung/Pic00200.JPG is me and
> aprox airspeed at the time was 70 - 75 indicated
>
> boyd
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JIMMY HANKINSON <jhankin(at)planters.net> |
PLEASE CONTACT ME AT MY E-MAIL ADDRESS OR GIVE ME YOUR NUMBER
912-863-7384
JIMMY
________________________________________________________________________________
Add me to your list:
Bill Griffin
Montgomery, Al
Original FireStar (down for re-build)
MkIII (project on hold)
Ph. 334-279-9899
e-mail: uldad(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JIMMY HANKINSON <jhankin(at)planters.net> |
PLEASE CONTACT ME, NO ANSWER AT PHONE LISTED.
912 863 7384
JIMMY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Peterson <b1bookie(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Add to your list |
Bill Peterson
4404 Donlon Road
Somis CA 93066
(805) 386-3145
Firestar - built in l989
237 hrs. on frame
Re-hab. - 503;'C'box;Warp-Drive
all new except frame and covering
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WillUribe(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Windshield cover |
In a message dated 2/26/01 2:56:49 AM Eastern Standard Time,
larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com writes:
> Looks good Will. I contacted the people that advertise the certified
> airplane covers some time ago, and tho' I don't immediately find the post, I
> think they called their material "Sun-brella," available at fabric shops.
> My main concern with parachutes, sunbrella, or whatever, is chafing against
> the lexan if there's any breeze. What has your experience been ??
> Wet Lar in Rainy Palm Springs. ( It's all Jon's fault ! ! ! )
I've never used my cover outside so I couldn't tell you.
I hope it's not raining in Mesa, AZ where I'll be working today.
Will
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JIMMY HANKINSON <jhankin(at)planters.net> |
| Subject: | Re:slingshot for sale |
PARTY WITH SLINGSHOT FOR SALE----PLEASE CONTACT ME. VERY INTERESTED.
912 863 7384
THANKS
JIMMY
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Windshield cover |
Lar,
You may want to try what I use - an outdoor plastic table cloth. The table cloths
that I found in K-Mart are made of plastic and have a very soft fuzzy cotton
backing. I sewed two of these together, shaped them, and added suitable eyelets
for tie-down. Works good for me. I've later found that this material is available
in cloth shops as well.
ulflyer
FSII/503
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Gerken" <gerken(at)us.ibm.com> |
02/26/2001 07:58:31 AM
Thanks to all who responded with requests and input on the prop extensions.
If you have expressed interest via e-mail and have not heard back from me
yet, it is my problem with e-mail. Please initiate all future contacts to
me directly at 507-753-2619 evenings. Sorry for the delay, for some of you
it has been a couple weeks now. Call if still interested, one
ready-to-ship extension still available, custom solutions also available,
with 10 days' delivery time.
Jim Gerken
507-753-2619
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kottke, Dwight" <dkottke(at)scherping.carlisle.com> |
| Subject: | non-kolb related |
Has anyone converted a 377 to twin carbs? What size carbs where used? What
can I expect for horsepower gains?
-----Original Message-----
From: Woody [mailto:duesouth(at)govital.net]
Sent: Friday, February 23, 2001 10:49 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: non-kolb related
>
> Can anyone give me a site for quicksilvers, I need to
>know what a fair price is for 1981 mx quicksilver is. It has
>a 30 hp. cuyuna, around 40hrs. t.t. always stored inside,
>fabric is good, has throw out chute that is extra. he wants
>around $1500.00 any help greatly appreciated.
>
>
Sounds fair. Perhaps you can get him down a bit farther. Of course that is
a $1500 that could have gone into a firestar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ronoy <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Windshield cover |
I don't have a windshield cover for my FF, but have had them in the past
on GA. The only ones you should use have a soft inside layer next to
plastic. And they should be tight so that they won't flap and rub the
plastic. They don't last too long outside, until the soft part rubs
away. Then you gotta get them off. Some guys use them inside hangars to
keep dust and birdy-doo off. Anything cheap is NG.
bn
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Add to your list |
| From: | Bruce L Borg <blborg(at)juno.com> |
Bruce Borg
7042 30TH ST SE
Eyota,MN 55934
(507)-282-6681
E-mail: blborg(at)juno.com
Ultrastar 1983
350hrs E&AF
CuyunaUII 02
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Windshield cover |
I might just give that a try, to keep dust and stuff off it while I'm
finishing up. My concern here is with the summertime sun. It's - intense -
to say the least, and most plastics disintegrate pretty quickly. I think
it'll be worth a try - at the least, it would make patterns for the
sun-brella. Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
----- Original Message -----
From: <Ulflyer(at)aol.com>
Sent: Monday, February 26, 2001 3:54 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Windshield cover
>
> Lar,
>
> You may want to try what I use - an outdoor plastic table cloth. The table
cloths that I found in K-Mart are made of plastic and have a very soft fuzzy
cotton backing. I sewed two of these together, shaped them, and added
suitable eyelets for tie-down. Works good for me. I've later found that this
material is available in cloth shops as well.
>
> ulflyer
> FSII/503
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Guy Swenson" <guys(at)rrt.net> |
Guy Swenson
Barnesville, MN
218-354-7138
Building MkIII Xtra
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dama" <dama(at)mindspring.com> |
The database now has over 100 contributors from 32 states and 3 countries.
It does make for some interesting reading. I am planning to bypass posting
on the "List" because of memory content. I plan on sending a copy on March
01 to every contributor and then advertising its availibility on the List.
Sincereley,
Kip Laurie
Atlanta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: non-kolb related |
Dwight,
Give Steve at Airscrew performance a call, he will have the answers you need
and may have the carbs.
You may be further ahead to put 447 pistons and cylinders on your engine and
keep your carb.
Denny Rowe
----- Original Message -----
From: Kottke, Dwight <dkottke(at)scherping.carlisle.com>
Sent: Monday, February 26, 2001 8:58 AM
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: non-kolb related
>
> Has anyone converted a 377 to twin carbs? What size carbs where used? What
> can I expect for horsepower gains?
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Woody [mailto:duesouth(at)govital.net]
> Sent: Friday, February 23, 2001 10:49 PM
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: non-kolb related
>
>
>
> >
> > Can anyone give me a site for quicksilvers, I need to
> >know what a fair price is for 1981 mx quicksilver is. It has
> >a 30 hp. cuyuna, around 40hrs. t.t. always stored inside,
> >fabric is good, has throw out chute that is extra. he wants
> >around $1500.00 any help greatly appreciated.
> >
> >
>
> Sounds fair. Perhaps you can get him down a bit farther. Of course that is
> a $1500 that could have gone into a firestar.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net> |
Kolbers,
I Received my Lord mounts today. Got my aluminum engine risers drilled
to match them and than clamped the risers and the isolaters on the
airframe and drilled all 16 holes through the steel airframe motor mount
plates. All went well and I was surprised at how easy it was to drill
through the motor mount plates.
Anyway, I hope to set the engine on the airframe tomorrow night.
Can't wait!
Denny Rowe
Building MK-3 South West, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clay Stuart" <cstuart(at)searnet.com> |
Dear John,
Can you briefly describe how you rigged the tail control surfaces support
wires with the turnbuckles. What size did you use and where did you place
them? I assume that you used 4 of them.
Thanks,
Clay Stuart
Danville KY
building Mark IIIXtra
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Plancraz2020(at)aol.com |
David A. Jones
Hernando, Mississippi
Firestar I / R447
TT 280 hrs
Plancraz2020(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tommy & Carolyn" <TommyandCarolyn(at)centurytel.net> |
Tommy Dubroc
Oakdale, Louisiana
318-748-6308
In progress
Firestar KXP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: tail bracing |
> Can you briefly describe how you rigged the tail control surfaces support
> wires with the turnbuckles. What size did you use and where did you place
> them? I assume that you used 4 of them.
>
> Thanks,
> Clay Stuart
> Danville KY
> building Mark IIIXtra
Howdy Clay and Gang:
I placed the turnbuckles (4 ea) top and bottom, outboard on
the horizontal stabilizers.
I do not know what size they are, off the top of my head,
but they are identical to the turnbuckles we received in the
Kolb kits for the elevator cables.
The turnbuckles are attached, same/same elevator cables, to
the stainless steel tangs with 3/16 bolts. Other end
attached to cable with thimble and two nicro press sleeves.
I also used turnbuckckles on the rudder cables on my
Firestar and MK III to facilitate adjustment.
If you need more info on tail wire bracing with turnbuckles,
let me know.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | Adjusting tail wire bracing |
The tangs that normally come with Kolb kits have multiple holes to adjust
tail brace wire tension. However, if you have a situation where you just
can't quite get the wire as tight as you want, here is a trick: Back in the
Easy Riser days, the bracing wires were adjusted by winding/unwinding them
before slipping the thimble ends over the attaching bolts. If you take a
wire and twist it in one direction, it gets shorter. If you twist it in the
other direction, it gets longer. Not by much, just a little. If you have
almost but not quite enough tension, it might give you what you need. And
don't go overboard: if you can take up the slack by twisting it two turns,
OK. Any more than that, all bets are off.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> |
Feels good, doesn't it ?? I'm almost ready for engine start, and after all
I've been thru designing and building that thing, you can imagine my state
of mind. Anticipating Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net>
Sent: Monday, February 26, 2001 7:50 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: progress
>
> Kolbers,
> I Received my Lord mounts today. Got my aluminum engine risers drilled
> to match them and than clamped the risers and the isolaters on the
> airframe and drilled all 16 holes through the steel airframe motor mount
> plates. All went well and I was surprised at how easy it was to drill
> through the motor mount plates.
> Anyway, I hope to set the engine on the airframe tomorrow night.
> Can't wait!
> Denny Rowe
> Building MK-3 South West, PA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TCowan1917(at)aol.com |
Ted Cowan
Opelika, Alabama
Org. Firestar
447 - Whitelightning
tcowan1917(at)aol.com
500+hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jrodebush" <jrodebush(at)cinci.rr.com> |
Thanks to all for imput on seat options. Went over last weekend to check
out the new Bass Pro Shop that opened in Cincinnati. Must have had a dozen
different seats for bass boats. Lots of choices and most were not that
heavy.
Rody
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "HD Mitchell" <mitchmnd(at)msn.com> |
Pls add me to your list:
Duane "the plane" Mitchell
Tallahassee, Florida
FireFly (3rd Kolb)/ trailer
95 hours
r at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bil Ragsdale" <bilrags(at)earthlink.net> |
Please add me to your database:
Bil Ragsdale
21200 Lamm Rd.
Elmendorf, Tx 78112
(210) 621-2071
(210) 573-5750
bilrags(at)yahoo.com
Kolb Mk III 0 hours since rebuild. Still working on runway and hangar.
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ian Heritch <heritch(at)connecti.com> |
| Subject: | Instrument holes |
After reviewing the archives, it appears the two best methods for
cutting instrument holes in the fiberglass nose cone is the fly-cutter
or the hole saw. Is the fly-cutter really appropriate for fiberglass?
Any comments or suggestions.
Ian Heritch
Slingshot 912 (hopefully flying by summer)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Adjusting tail wire bracing |
the bracing wires were adjusted by winding/unwinding them
> before slipping the thimble ends over the attaching bolts.
> MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Richard and Gang:
This is also a good solution, but temporary. Another is
adding washers. I have been through both systems many
times. That is why, the last time I made up new tail
cables, I finally decided to install turnbuckles.
The tail section of the Kolb aircraft, especially higher
horse power models, 80 and 100 hp, take a beating from the
prop wash and from taxiing on rough fields. The cables and
hardware (thimbles) have normal stretch as they are stressed
through use. However, cable tension is lost continuously by
wear in the elevator hinges, created by side loading from
the tail wire tension.
The elevator hinges take all the thrust loads from the tail
wire tension. If they wear a slight amount, the cables get
slack. Slack cables allow unwanted movement and vibration
in the tail section. It is a continuous battle to keep the
wires tight.
When I installed turn buckles on my MK III, I also installed
some nylon thrust blocks between the inboard edge of the
horizontal stabilizer and the tailboom. After initial wear
in, the thrust blocks seemed to be working, taking a lot of
side load off the elevator hinges.
The thrust block system only works for aircraft that are not
folded. In order to fold the horizontal stabilizers, the
thrust blocks must be removed.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Adjusting tail wire bracing |
Could you take a picture of them, and publish it ?? Please ?? Thanks.
Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2001 6:59 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Adjusting tail wire bracing
>
>
> the bracing wires were adjusted by winding/unwinding them
> > before slipping the thimble ends over the attaching bolts.
> > MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
> Richard and Gang:
>
> This is also a good solution, but temporary. Another is
> adding washers. I have been through both systems many
> times. That is why, the last time I made up new tail
> cables, I finally decided to install turnbuckles.
>
> The tail section of the Kolb aircraft, especially higher
> horse power models, 80 and 100 hp, take a beating from the
> prop wash and from taxiing on rough fields. The cables and
> hardware (thimbles) have normal stretch as they are stressed
> through use. However, cable tension is lost continuously by
> wear in the elevator hinges, created by side loading from
> the tail wire tension.
>
> The elevator hinges take all the thrust loads from the tail
> wire tension. If they wear a slight amount, the cables get
> slack. Slack cables allow unwanted movement and vibration
> in the tail section. It is a continuous battle to keep the
> wires tight.
>
> When I installed turn buckles on my MK III, I also installed
> some nylon thrust blocks between the inboard edge of the
> horizontal stabilizer and the tailboom. After initial wear
> in, the thrust blocks seemed to be working, taking a lot of
> side load off the elevator hinges.
>
> The thrust block system only works for aircraft that are not
> folded. In order to fold the horizontal stabilizers, the
> thrust blocks must be removed.
>
> Take care,
>
> john h
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument holes |
Don't know about the fly-cutter, but I used regular Milwaukee, and Morse
hole saws, and drum sanded to final size. See my web-site. Big
Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ian Heritch" <heritch(at)connecti.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2001 8:50 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Instrument holes
>
> After reviewing the archives, it appears the two best methods for
> cutting instrument holes in the fiberglass nose cone is the fly-cutter
> or the hole saw. Is the fly-cutter really appropriate for fiberglass?
> Any comments or suggestions.
>
> Ian Heritch
> Slingshot 912 (hopefully flying by summer)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WingManBill2(at)aol.com |
I don't think it's recomended to run the engine without the prop attached! Might
wanna check into that suggestion of running without!
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
Please add me to your data base
Kolb Mark III
Rotax 582
Warp drive three blade
130 HRS.
Wayne Boyter
565 SE. Parkway Dr.
Winston, OR 97496
541-679-3831
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> |
Just started reading the new Northern Pilot magazine, for Winter
2000/2001, and found an ad for "At Last Thermal Products." They have a
line of battery powered clothing aimed at Alaskan pilots, that feature
"Gorix" material. Their website is http://www.4atlast.com , or the
phone is 1-888-559-8871. After reading the recent threads on the
winter flying some of you guys are doing, I thought you might be
interested. Web site is interesting. Helpful Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> |
HooooBoy ! ! ! OK, anyone ?? I built that thing myself, so there's no
manufacturer to go to. Besides less cooling air without the prop, what
other problems might I expect ?? Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
----- Original Message -----
From: <WingManBill2(at)aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2001 7:41 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: first start
>
> I don't think it's recomended to run the engine without the prop attached!
Might wanna check into that suggestion of running without!
>
> Bill
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Foley" <mfoley(at)Thermawave.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Adjusting tail wire bracing |
Does anyone else use the turnbuckles on the tail brace wires?
Mike Foley
building a Mark 3 Extra in Ca.
Michael E Foley
THERMA-WAVE
Field Service Engineer
Western Region
Phone: 510-687-3505
Cell Phone:510-520-5579
Pager: 800-771-9214
Fax: 1-510-353-0130
E-Mail: MFoley(at)thermawave.com
>>> hawk36(at)mindspring.com 02/27/01 06:59AM >>>
the bracing wires were adjusted by winding/unwinding them
> before slipping the thimble ends over the attaching bolts.
> MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Richard and Gang:
This is also a good solution, but temporary. Another is
adding washers. I have been through both systems many
times. That is why, the last time I made up new tail
cables, I finally decided to install turnbuckles.
The tail section of the Kolb aircraft, especially higher
horse power models, 80 and 100 hp, take a beating from the
prop wash and from taxiing on rough fields. The cables and
hardware (thimbles) have normal stretch as they are stressed
through use. However, cable tension is lost continuously by
wear in the elevator hinges, created by side loading from
the tail wire tension.
The elevator hinges take all the thrust loads from the tail
wire tension. If they wear a slight amount, the cables get
slack. Slack cables allow unwanted movement and vibration
in the tail section. It is a continuous battle to keep the
wires tight.
When I installed turn buckles on my MK III, I also installed
some nylon thrust blocks between the inboard edge of the
horizontal stabilizer and the tailboom. After initial wear
in, the thrust blocks seemed to be working, taking a lot of
side load off the elevator hinges.
The thrust block system only works for aircraft that are not
folded. In order to fold the horizontal stabilizers, the
thrust blocks must be removed.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Adjusting tail wire bracing |
> Could you take a picture of them, and publish it ?? Please ?? Thanks.
> Lar.
Lar and Gang:
Be glad to, but have to wait until I get the airplane put
back together. Everything is disassembled at this time.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Besides less cooling air without the prop, what
> other problems might I expect ?? Lar.
Lar and Gang:
Does your Bourne VW have a flywheel, other than the prop?
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry" <tswartz(at)hydrosoft.net> |
Larry
Prop acts like a big flywheel. Most lawnmowers won't run without the blade
attached. I really don't know about the Rotax though. My first start on
the 912 had the prop attached.
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of larrybiglar
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2001 10:49 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: first start
HooooBoy ! ! ! OK, anyone ?? I built that thing myself, so there's no
manufacturer to go to. Besides less cooling air without the prop, what
other problems might I expect ?? Lar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Foley" <mfoley(at)Thermawave.com> |
We never ran an aircraft engine without some form of dummy prop on it when I worked
for a GA mechanic
Mike
>>> WingManBill2(at)aol.com 02/27/01 07:41AM >>>
I don't think it's recomended to run the engine without the prop attached! Might
wanna check into that suggestion of running without!
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ole Noetnes <onoetnes(at)online.no> |
WingManBill2(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> I don't think it's recomended to run the engine without the prop attached! Might
wanna check into that suggestion of running without!
>
> Bill
>
if it's a rotax, the prop is there to act as a flywheel. this is useful
for som vw-conversions as well. plenty of storys of rotaxes who have
overrevved without the proper load and seized on their first run out
there.
ole
twinstar mk2 in norway
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Beauford Tuton" <beauford(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
Please add me to the database:
Beauford "Bill" Tuton
3933 Applegate Circle
Brandon, FL 33511
Firefly #76
813-662-2210
Thank you.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | EAA AD & D Insurance |
Not Kolb related, but since it might save some of us money and grief...
If any of you got your EAA Accidental Death & Dismemberment Insurance
policies in the mail for renewal lately, be advised that they no longer
cover Ultralight aircraft. There is a blurb on the front that says
"Includes Aviation & Ultralight Coverage, but in the fine print, the pilot
has to have a third class medical, and Airman's Certificate, and also the
aircraft has to have a STANDARD CATEGORY airworthiness certificate. Which
would exclude not only Ultralights, but aircraft with an Experimental
category airworthiness certificate. I called Harvy Watt & Co,
Administrators for the policy and they confirmed this. I have called EAA
headquarters, and they promised to follow up. This is not the EAA Life
insurance Policy, apparently they still cover part 103 vehicles, just the
AD & D from Zurich American Insurance Co.
Meanwhile, buyer beware.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)state.mi.us> |
It appears there are 40 people out there wring their hands over this issue. In
Lar's photos he has a flywheel so he can start the engine without the prop. This
auto engine will get hot fairly quick without the air flow but I think he knows
this. The engine may run smoother or rougher without the prop, it will be
interesting to know. I was flying a Weedhopper that lost its prop, it got real
smooth. I started my VW engine with the prop on because I didn't have a starter
for the first year and needed the prop to spin the engine. Its much less exciting
setting the timing without a prop. Get that engine running we are all
waiting very impatiently for this project to fly.
Rick Neilsen
VW powered MKIII
>>> WingManBill2(at)aol.com 02/27/01 10:41AM >>>
I don't think it's recomended to run the engine without the prop attached! Might
wanna check into that suggestion of running without!
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Skip Staub <skipnann(at)earthlink.net> |
>Please add me to the database:
Skip Staub
308 Sally Lee Drive
Ellenton, FL 34222
1984 UltraStar
941-729-3321
Thank you.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dorismae Wikre" <dormel(at)means.net> |
Mel Wikre
Lanesboro, MN
507-875-2576
Original Firestar
377
91-53-55 W
43-46-03 N
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | Instrument holes |
Ian,
Yes the fly-cutter is appropriate if used carefully. I prefer the hole saws
as they are easier to use, but pretty expensive if you need to buy several
sizes. To use a fly-cutter, I will securely clamp a piece of wood behind
the panel to ensure a solid point for the centering drill bit as the cutter
is cutting completly through the fiberglass. If you don't, when the plug is
almost severed, it will start wobbling and damage can quickly result as the
cutter is no longer in a true circle. The clampled piece of wood will
prevent this from happening.
Use a slow drill speed and proceed carefully.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ian Heritch
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2001 11:51 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Instrument holes
After reviewing the archives, it appears the two best methods for
cutting instrument holes in the fiberglass nose cone is the fly-cutter
or the hole saw. Is the fly-cutter really appropriate for fiberglass?
Any comments or suggestions.
Ian Heritch
Slingshot 912 (hopefully flying by summer)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott and Pam Trask <PTrask(at)diisd.org> |
So who will have the complete list? I'm sure I missed some.
Scott Trask
Mk 111 912 900 HRS
private strip room to camp
(906) 779 9157
ptrask(at)diisd.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Sudlow" <suds77(at)telocity.com> |
Dear Listers,
I'm about to purchase tach, airspeed, altimeter, and EGT & Water temp for my
MIII. I'm open to any advice others may have on who to buy from and what to
buy. Let it rip!
Thanks.
Chris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KHe1144783(at)aol.com |
Chris: EIS. The only way to fly. Rock solid reliability and GREAT Company.Kris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument holes |
I used holesaws, the holes turned out perfect!
Denny
----- Original Message -----
From: Ian Heritch <heritch(at)connecti.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2001 11:50 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Instrument holes
>
> After reviewing the archives, it appears the two best methods for
> cutting instrument holes in the fiberglass nose cone is the fly-cutter
> or the hole saw. Is the fly-cutter really appropriate for fiberglass?
> Any comments or suggestions.
>
> Ian Heritch
> Slingshot 912 (hopefully flying by summer)
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated Tue, 27 Feb 2001 10:51:33 AM Eastern Standard Time, "larrybiglar"
writes:
HooooBoy ! ! ! OK, anyone ?? I built that thing myself, so there's no
manufacturer to go to. Besides less cooling air without the prop, what
other problems might I expect ?? Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
Real easy to over-rev the engine. It will not tune the same as with the prop on.
Shack
FS I
SC
----- Original Message -----
From: <WingManBill2(at)aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2001 7:41 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: first start
>
> I don't think it's recomended to run the engine without the prop attached!
Might wanna check into that suggestion of running without!
>
> Bill
>
>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> |
From the comments on here, and some memories they triggered, such as the
need for a dummy prop on the reduction drive to keep the chain from
chattering, I think I'd better look into the idea of a "flywheel" on the
redrive output shaft. Thanks all. Wiser Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> |
Not really, just a flex plate for the starter, like an auto trans.
Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2001 7:58 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: first start
>
> Besides less cooling air without the prop, what
> > other problems might I expect ?? Lar.
>
> Lar and Gang:
>
> Does your Bourne VW have a flywheel, other than the prop?
>
> john h
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Mk 3 prop diameters |
Kolbers,
Tonight I set the engine on the bird, YES!
Now I have a question.
What is the minimum recomended distance between the prop tips and the
tailboom?
I was thinking two inches would be plenty, this would limit me to a 68"
prop.
I have pretty much settled on an F model 3-blade Powerfin because of
several of you folks that rave about them. I was hoping to have room
for a 70" prop but one inch of clearance seems to tight to me.
I am curious as to what other Mk-3 owners are running.
Later,
Denny Mk-3 with 2si 690L-70 2.65 to 1 gearbox
PS: The engine looks awsome! Now I haveto figure out the radiator
mounts. :-}
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> |
Can't be any more impatient than me ! ! ! Getting close after all this time
is really getting me wound up. Besides, Kris got his plane going,
loves it, and needs someone to fly with. Big Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)state.mi.us>
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2001 9:43 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: first start
>
> It appears there are 40 people out there wring their hands over this
issue. In Lar's photos he has a flywheel so he can start the engine without
the prop. This auto engine will get hot fairly quick without the air flow
but I think he knows this. The engine may run smoother or rougher without
the prop, it will be interesting to know. I was flying a Weedhopper that
lost its prop, it got real smooth. I started my VW engine with the prop on
because I didn't have a starter for the first year and needed the prop to
spin the engine. Its much less exciting setting the timing without a prop.
Get that engine running we are all waiting very impatiently for this project
to fly.
>
> Rick Neilsen
> VW powered MKIII
>
> >>> WingManBill2(at)aol.com 02/27/01 10:41AM >>>
>
> I don't think it's recomended to run the engine without the prop attached!
Might wanna check into that suggestion of running without!
>
> Bill
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ray L Baker <rbaker2(at)juno.com> |
Chris,
I went with the Grand Rapids EIS, including altimeter and VSI. Easy to
mount, easy to scan and out of range alarms. A maximum of
instrumentation in a minimum of space. Not all that much more $$$ than
all the instruments separate. If you are going to use the Kuntzleman Hot
Box, it will include the wiring for the EIS.
L. Ray Baker
Lake Butler, Fl
Building Mark III, SN M1156--N629RB
writes:
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> I'm about to purchase tach, airspeed, altimeter, and EGT & Water
> temp for my
> MIII. I'm open to any advice others may have on who to buy from and
> what to
> buy. Let it rip!
>
> Thanks.
>
> Chris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Skip Staub <skipnann(at)earthlink.net> |
Larry,
I think that you should consider a test club (prop) or your actual prop on
startup. As previously mentioned, it will act as a flywheel and help cool
that poor old Vdub engine. In any case, that's how it is normally done
when working with most (if not all) general aviation engines.
Skip
> >From the comments on here, and some memories they triggered, such as the
>need for a dummy prop on the reduction drive to keep the chain from
>chattering, I think I'd better look into the idea of a "flywheel" on the
>redrive output shaft. Thanks all. Wiser Lar.
>
>Larry Bourne
>Palm Springs, Ca.
>Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Mk 3 prop diameters |
Denny:
One way to buy yourself an extra inch of clearance is to simply invert
your Lord mounts. I run a 72" Powerfin and use the 2" rails what were an
option with old Kolb. I'm sure the drawing is still available. The system
results in a modest raise in the thrust line, but feels very secure and I
have had no trouble with it in 60 hours.
Mark R. Sellers
Kolb Twinstar Mark III
N496BM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Weber" <bweber2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument holes |
One additional suggestion. When preparing my nose cone for instruments, I
cut a piece of 1/8" plywood to shape and glued it to the inside of the nose
cone with epoxy. Gives it a bit more body for mounting which is nice if you
are using a traditional (heavy) altimiter.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: Ian Heritch <heritch(at)connecti.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2001 8:50 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Instrument holes
>
> After reviewing the archives, it appears the two best methods for
> cutting instrument holes in the fiberglass nose cone is the fly-cutter
> or the hole saw. Is the fly-cutter really appropriate for fiberglass?
> Any comments or suggestions.
>
> Ian Heritch
> Slingshot 912 (hopefully flying by summer)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> |
Yah, that's kinda what I was thinking when I mentioned my buddy's stubby
gyro prop. It's a LOT shorter than mine, and might not be quite so
dangerous at 1st, while moving lots of air. Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "Skip Staub" <skipnann(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2001 7:53 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Flywheel
>
> Larry,
>
> I think that you should consider a test club (prop) or your actual prop on
> startup. As previously mentioned, it will act as a flywheel and help cool
> that poor old Vdub engine. In any case, that's how it is normally done
> when working with most (if not all) general aviation engines.
> Skip
>
> > >From the comments on here, and some memories they triggered, such as
the
> >need for a dummy prop on the reduction drive to keep the chain from
> >chattering, I think I'd better look into the idea of a "flywheel" on the
> >redrive output shaft. Thanks all. Wiser Lar.
> >
> >Larry Bourne
> >Palm Springs, Ca.
> >Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
>
>Please add me to the database:
>
>Beauford "Bill" Tuton
>3933 Applegate Circle
>Brandon, FL 33511
>Firefly #76
>813-662-2210
>
>Thank you.
That's it??? No great Beauford epic adventure to relate? I'm greatly
disappointed.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
I have found the guys at Sky Sports knowledgeable and stand behind their
products. They have a real interest in having satisfied customers
>Dear Listers,
>
>I'm about to purchase tach, airspeed, altimeter, and EGT & Water temp for my
>MIII. I'm open to any advice others may have on who to buy from and what to
>buy. Let it rip!
>
>Thanks.
>
>Chris
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Richmond <twoschmoops(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Database Growing |
Please enter the following;
John Richmond
25 Blackburn Place
Palm Coast, Fl. 32137
904-445-7820 (h)
904-329-4403 (w)
Mark III, 582
20hr since rebuild
=====
John & Lynn Richmond :-)
Palm Coast, Fl.
Mk3, 582
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Foley" <mfoley(at)Thermawave.com> |
ok thanks
what state are you in
mike
>>> PTrask(at)diisd.org 02/27/01 02:07PM >>>
So who will have the complete list? I'm sure I missed some.
Scott Trask
Mk 111 912 900 HRS
private strip room to camp
(906) 779 9157
ptrask(at)diisd.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Adjusting tail wire bracing |
. However, cable tension is lost continuously by
> wear in the elevator hinges, created by side loading from
> the tail wire tension.
>
> The elevator hinges take all the thrust loads from the tail
> wire tension. If they wear a slight amount, the cables get
> slack. Slack cables allow unwanted movement and vibration
> in the tail section. It is a continuous battle to keep the
> wires tight.
>
> When I installed turn buckles on my MK III, I also installed
> some nylon thrust blocks between the inboard edge of the
> horizontal stabilizer and the tailboom. After initial wear
> in, the thrust blocks seemed to be working, taking a lot of
> side load off the elevator hinges.
>
> The thrust block system only works for aircraft that are not
> folded. In order to fold the horizontal stabilizers, the
> thrust blocks must be removed.
This is a fantastic observation that could only come from the guy with the
most time! I would bet the pitch control operates a bit smoother with the
thrust blocks in place. now I will have to install these!
Topher
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Adjusting tail wire bracing |
I would bet the pitch control operates a bit smoother with
the
> thrust blocks in place. now I will have to install these!
>
> Topher
Topher:
Could not detect any difference in smoothness of pitch
control. However, my tailwires do not need near as much
attention.
Along those lines. High time Kolbs will wear through the
tail wire thimbles. When this happens, the next step is
cable failure. There just isn't much bearing surface
between the thimble and the SS tang, so they wear rather
rapidly.
Something to check during preflight and postflight
inspections.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mrk III prop diameters |
| From: | erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com |
02/28/2001 12:27:13 PM
Denny:
I know from first hand experience (a bad experience!) that you not only
have to worry about the tail boom clearance, but also the flap control arms
(dont think thats quite the right terminology...). I have a warp drive,
and on my first start up, the prop flexed just enough to get a strike
there. Problem easily fixed by adjusting the maximum angle the arms make
with the flap control rods. For the record, Im using a 68" prop. I know
John Hauck has a big 72", so it can be done. May not really need such a
long prop with the Powerfin though - I seem to recall they have a rather
large chord length compared to Ivo or Warp Drive.
Regards,
Erich Weaver
erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Watson <Scott(at)disney.com> |
| Subject: | Ripped Wing - Help! |
Fellow Kolbsters - I bought my Firstar built so I don't have all that
kit building gear and expertise.
SO - I have a rip along the both sides one of the wing spars. This is
on the bottom of the wing.
How does one repair something like this?
Help!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ripped Wing - Help! |
Scott and Gang:
The people to contact are Jim and Dondi Miller, Aircraft
Technical Support, Inc, toll free at: 1-877-877-3334.
There email is: www.aircrafttechsupport.com
These folks are the covering and finishing experts. They
can tell you how to fix you problem and provide you with the
proper material to do so.
Tell'em Hauck sent ya!!!
john h
> SO - I have a rip along the both sides one of the wing spars. This is
> on the bottom of the wing.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WillUribe(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Ripped Wing - Help! |
Scott,
What kind of covering system was used on your FireStar, is it Poly-Fiber?
In a message dated 2/28/01 2:19:02 PM Eastern Standard Time, Scott(at)disney.com
writes:
> Fellow Kolbsters - I bought my Firstar built so I don't have all that
> kit building gear and expertise.
>
> SO - I have a rip along the both sides one of the wing spars. This is
> on the bottom of the wing.
>
> How does one repair something like this?
>
> Help!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | Instrument holes |
... or you could add an additional layer of glass. This is easy to do, if
you hold the nose cone with one hand and stick your head up into the cone so
you can see what you are doing. To spread out the glass and the resin, it
helps to see what you are doing. It also help if you can hold your breath
for a long time.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill Weber
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2001 11:16 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Instrument holes
One additional suggestion. When preparing my nose cone for instruments, I
cut a piece of 1/8" plywood to shape and glued it to the inside of the nose
cone with epoxy. Gives it a bit more body for mounting which is nice if you
are using a traditional (heavy) altimiter.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: Ian Heritch <heritch(at)connecti.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2001 8:50 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Instrument holes
>
> After reviewing the archives, it appears the two best methods for
> cutting instrument holes in the fiberglass nose cone is the fly-cutter
> or the hole saw. Is the fly-cutter really appropriate for fiberglass?
> Any comments or suggestions.
>
> Ian Heritch
> Slingshot 912 (hopefully flying by summer)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lawrence M. Rice" <tailwind5(at)juno.com> |
If you are going to cut instrument holes with a fly cutter, fine, but do
it on a drill press with the panel clamped down. A fly cutter can ruin
your whole day real fast.
Larry the MicroMong guy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 02/27/01 |
After reviewing the archives, it appears the two best
methods for
cutting instrument holes in the fiberglass nose cone is the
fly-cutter
or the hole saw. Is the fly-cutter really appropriate for
fiberglass?
Any comments or suggestions.
i started with a smaller hole and used a rotery fild that
fit in my drill. cheep and easy.
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | Re: engine start |
HooooBoy ! ! ! OK, anyone ?? I built that thing myself,
so there's no
manufacturer to go to. Besides less cooling air without the
prop, what
other problems might I expect ?? Lar.
with no load on the engine it is possible to over temp----
over rev---- not sure about breaking any of the
innerds... i think your power plant is a vw engine.
maybe it has enough flywheel that some of the problems are
not an issue. vw run in a car with no load ok......
or are the always turning a fan, generator etc...... my
rotax said positively not without the prop
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary r. voigt" <johndeereantique(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 02/27/01 |
I think they both work well, but i insisted on using the
fly-cutter because i wanted a tight fit. I must caution you that
when you are getting close to opposite end of cutting through you
must reduce your rpms to around 200 or it will catch and grab on
the fiberglass. mine turned out perfect and over the fiberglass I
put on another layer of black crinkle plastic. looks nice.
thanks,
Gary r. voigt
b young wrote:
>
> After reviewing the archives, it appears the two best
> methods for
> cutting instrument holes in the fiberglass nose cone is the
> fly-cutter
> or the hole saw. Is the fly-cutter really appropriate for
> fiberglass?
> Any comments or suggestions.
>
> i started with a smaller hole and used a rotery fild that
> fit in my drill. cheep and easy.
>
> boyd
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Airgriff2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 20 Msgs - 02/28/01cable tension adjustment |
Anyone have a method or guideline for how much is the proper amount of
adjustment, when putting tension on cables . Is there a "rule of thumb"
such as, a certain amount of movement up & down, for so many feet of cable ?
I think alot of us may tighten cables up to (a certain point) ? and then say
" I guess thats ok"?
SAFE FLYING
Bob Griffin
mk3
upstate N.Y. (actually Florida for the next 12 days, YES !! )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "INFO" <info(at)aircrafttechsupport.com> |
| Subject: | Tear in wing fabric..... |
____
From: Scott Watson <Scott(at)disney.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Ripped Wing - Help!
Fellow Kolbsters - I bought my Firstar built so I don't have all that
kit building gear and expertise.
SO - I have a rip along the both sides one of the wing spars. This is
on the bottom of the wing.
How does one repair something like this?
Help!
**********Hi, Scott, and welcome to the Kolb world!
Give us a call & we'll talk you through the repair.
Thanks,
Jim & Dondi Miller
Aircraft Technical Support, Inc.
Poly-Fiber & Ceconite Distributors
(Toll Free) (877) 877-3334
Web Site: www.poly-fiber.com
www.aircrafttechsupport.com
E-mail: info(at)aircrafttechsupport.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 20 Msgs - 02/28/01cable tension |
adjustment
> Anyone have a method or guideline for how much is the proper amount of
> adjustment, when putting tension on cables .
> Bob Griffin
Good Morning Bob and Gang:
I do not know that there is a hard and fast rule to follow
when adjusting tail wire bracing on Kolb aircraft.
I usually pluck one of the top cables like a guitar string.
If I get a nice sharp twang, I am happy. If I get a thud,
then I go to step two:
Grasp the leading edge of the vertical stabilizer with one
hand near the cable attach point. Grasp the horizontal
stabilizer with the other hand near that cable attach
point. Now, try to pull them together. If I get visible
slack in the cable, they are too loose and require
tightening. Here is where the turnbuckles are convenient to
have installed. I tighten to the point that I can not pull
slack in the cable, keeping in mind to tighten all four
while maintaining the correct position for each of the four
components (2 ea horizontal and 2 ea vertical stabilizers).
I was not too concerned about loose tail wires until I had
an opportunity to fly the new factory MK III ten years ago.
With this new aircraft I could turn my head far enough to
the rear to see the tail section in flight. I was amazed at
the magnitude the two top wires and the leading edges of the
horizontal stabilizers were occilating. I tightened the
cables, did another in flight check. No problem. Wires and
horizontal stabilizers rock solid. :-) That was my cue to
keep them tight.
A reminder: When doing the cable tension test I described
above, DO NOT TRY TO BEND OR BREAK EITHER OR BOTH THE
HORIZONTAL OR VERTICAL STABILIZER. Be firm, but not to the
point of destruction. :-)
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Elder" <billelder(at)denver.net> |
| Subject: | Re: engine start |
A last thought - at the Rotax engine training class last month, Eric Tucker
(Mr. Rotax) said never to run a Rotax without the prop. Within a second you
can overspeed and destroy the engine. Note this applies to Rotax engines -
don't know about others.
-----Original Message-----
From: b young <byoung(at)brigham.net>
Date: Wednesday, February 28, 2001 8:10 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: engine start
>
>
>HooooBoy ! ! ! OK, anyone ?? I built that thing myself,
>so there's no
>manufacturer to go to. Besides less cooling air without the
>prop, what
>other problems might I expect ?? Lar.
>
>with no load on the engine it is possible to over temp----
>over rev---- not sure about breaking any of the
>innerds... i think your power plant is a vw engine.
>maybe it has enough flywheel that some of the problems are
>not an issue. vw run in a car with no load ok......
>or are the always turning a fan, generator etc...... my
>rotax said positively not without the prop
>
>boyd
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dama" <dama(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Database Information |
A copy of the Kolb Database has been sent to everyone who contributed. Some
have already been returned with invalid addresses. If anyone would like a
copy, or did not recieve, please E-mail me DIRECTLY (dama(at)mindspring.com).
Sincereley,
Kip Laurie
Atlanta
N111KX
Firestar II
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Gherkins" <rp3420(at)email.sps.mot.com> |
| Subject: | Re: No more Homer bumps |
Denny & Kolbers,
Thanks for the "well done!" with the anti-homer bump ribs. Uncle Craig
and myself wanted to do away with the bumps and with Craigs creativity
and previous experience in light planes and ultralights that is what we
both came up with.
However, we did do some homework and found out that 6061 T6 is not the
best material to bend for rib making. T6 tends to make little micro
tears in the bend(too springy). So we used 6061 T4 which has far less
susceptible to tear. We sure do have a process down for making them,
and have one more flap to build and we are done with all the flight
control surfaces on the Mrk III extra. Wings will be next.
We will have a web site up very shortly with more pictures and antics of
our building projects.
Thanks Will for showing off the pictures! Again, it was fun to talk and
get to know Will, as I am sure many of you know.
The two Milows:
Tim Gherkins- Firestar II
Craig Nelson- Mark III Extra
Denny Rowe wrote:
>
>
> Kolbers,
> Craigs control surface ribs look exactly like the ribs in the canard of a
> Pterodactyl, it is a very clean and strong way to put them together.
> Well done!
> Denny Rowe
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Ultratec Engine info request |
| From: | erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com |
03/01/2001 12:41:52 PM
I see from the Kolb database that Todd Thompson has an Ultratec engine on
his Kolb. Im sure many have looked at the ads for this engine and thought
"sounds good, but Im going to wait to see how it works for other people."
How about a report Todd?
Erich Weaver
erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Minewiser" <flykolb(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Database Information |
Thanks Kip,
It looks great! Thanks for doing such a good servoce for the Kolb list!.
Jim Minewiser
Charlotte, NC
Mark III
----- Original Message -----
From: "dama" <dama(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 01, 2001 11:25 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Database Information
>
> A copy of the Kolb Database has been sent to everyone who contributed.
Some
> have already been returned with invalid addresses. If anyone would like a
> copy, or did not recieve, please E-mail me DIRECTLY (dama(at)mindspring.com).
> Sincereley,
> Kip Laurie
> Atlanta
> N111KX
> Firestar II
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAquaNut(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Database Information |
Kip, I would like a copy of your list.
Ed Diebel
131 Outlook
Houston, Texas 77034 (713- 944-1147)
Firefly 75% complete ( Daquanut(at)aol.com)
Rotax 447
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FLYING IN THE MOUNTAINS |
A bunch of us flat-landers will be doing some flying in the Great Smokey
Mountains of NC [most for the 1st time] around Memorial Day. Any listers
have any suggestions
[weather, tree landing, etc.]?
Howard Shackleford
FS I
Lexington, SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net> |
Got my new issue of EAA Experimenter today and see that Kips beutiful
Firestar is pictured in the completions. My boy Really liked the look
of the bare bones fuselage.
He says the Slip Stream aircraft on the cover is ugly as sin and its
tail structure looks cheesy. For only being seven years old, the lad
has discrimenating taste. :-)
Nice bird Kip,
Denny
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | ripping 3/16"aluminum |
Kolbers,
Will my table saw with a standard carbide tip wood blade be able to rip
3/16" thick 6061 T-6? I need to rip some aluminum angle to a little
narrower size.
Thanks,
Denny
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAquaNut(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Database Information |
sorry bout that I didnt mean for this to go to the list.
sorry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robodres <robodres(at)cmn.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FLYING IN THE MOUNTAINS |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Richmond" <dvrich(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ripping 3/16"aluminum |
Yes A carbide wood blade will cut aluminum very well. It works even
better if the blade is rubbed with an aluminum tool lubricant ( comes in
a bar and is waxy) it keeps the aluminum from sticking to the teeth and
plugging it up. It also solves that same problem when using saber saws
at fast speed. The cutting goes much faster and cleaner. You can also
use a router with a guide and carbide router bit to round corners and
such.
Dan R
----- Original Message -----
From: Denny Rowe
Sent: Thursday, March 01, 2001 7:46 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: ripping 3/16"aluminum
Kolbers,
Will my table saw with a standard carbide tip wood blade be able to rip
3/16" thick 6061 T-6? I need to rip some aluminum angle to a little
narrower size.
Thanks,
Denny
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> |
DO NOT
ARCHIVE.
What a night ! ! ! I'm gonna send this message, and go to bed before I
have a stroke, or throw this awful thing thru the window ! ! ! If
anyone is thinking of a new computer, I cannot recommend a new Compaq,
or the MSN internet access, $400.00 rebate or not. There's something
about the interaction with Compaq's goofed up version of Windows, and
msn that fights each other and goofs up the whole system, and it gets
worse with time, instead of better. Then wait an hour for a tech, if
you don't get dropped after 1/2 hour, then their useless techs don't
know a damned thing anyway. MERCY ! ! !
I've just finished the web page for the whale watching trip, and
attached it to my main website, and while I was at it, since I've
finally learned how to link to a picture, I was adding links to my
original Kolb building site. Was ! ! ! I got some done on the fuel
system, and was trying for the seats, and finally had to give up. Can't
take anymore of this. Maybe, possibly, things'll look better
tomorrow. If anybody wants to see enlargements of any of the pics on
any of my pages, let me know, and I'll see if I can fight this piece of
junk into submission, and publish it for you. Meanwhile, enjoy the
expanded fuel system, and the whales in Baja, and tell 'em Lar sent ya.
GOOD NIGHT ! ! !
DO
NOT ARCHIVE.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dama" <dama(at)mindspring.com> |
Denny, tell your son that I thought that I was the only one in the world
that thought a Firestar might look OK with no skin. Something actually works
and it doesn't look too out of place. Tell your son that I can sleep a
little better thanks to him. PS I hope my issue comes today!
----- Original Message -----
From: Denny Rowe <rowedl(at)alltel.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 01, 2001 9:41 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: kip's bird
>
> Got my new issue of EAA Experimenter today and see that Kips beutiful
> Firestar is pictured in the completions. My boy Really liked the look
> of the bare bones fuselage.
> He says the Slip Stream aircraft on the cover is ugly as sin and its
> tail structure looks cheesy. For only being seven years old, the lad
> has discrimenating taste. :-)
>
> Nice bird Kip,
>
> Denny
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net> |
Kip,
Thanks for the photo.
Denny and Jeremiah Rowe
----- Original Message -----
From: dama <dama(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Friday, March 02, 2001 9:34 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: kip's bird
>
> Denny, tell your son that I thought that I was the only one in the world
> that thought a Firestar might look OK with no skin. Something actually
works
> and it doesn't look too out of place. Tell your son that I can sleep a
> little better thanks to him. PS I hope my issue comes today!
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Denny Rowe <rowedl(at)alltel.net>
> To: kolb-list
> Sent: Thursday, March 01, 2001 9:41 PM
> Subject: Kolb-List: kip's bird
>
>
> >
> > Got my new issue of EAA Experimenter today and see that Kips beutiful
> > Firestar is pictured in the completions. My boy Really liked the look
> > of the bare bones fuselage.
> > He says the Slip Stream aircraft on the cover is ugly as sin and its
> > tail structure looks cheesy. For only being seven years old, the lad
> > has discrimenating taste. :-)
> >
> > Nice bird Kip,
> >
> > Denny
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | data base correction |
| From: | Scott and Pam Trask <PTrask(at)diisd.org> |
on 3/1/01 1:58 AM, Kolb-List Digest Server at kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com
wrote:
> I missed some.
>
> Scott Trask
> Mk 111 912 900 HRS
> private strip room to camp
> (906) 779 9157
> ptrask(at)diisd.org
>
>
> Scott Trask
N4592 Bass LK 607
Iron Mountain MI 49801
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry <davistcs(at)eoni.com> |
| Subject: | Database information |
Please enter me in the database.
Terry Davis
Sumpter, Oregon (Eastern side of State)
541-894-2307
Firestar II, 503, Floats
Building wings, cage ordered.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Steuber" <esteuber(at)rochester.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Cable tension and boom repair ? |
As far as cable tension...you can buy a cable tension tool ( big bucks)
and call Kolb for the dope or just use common sense...I am presently
repairing an Ultrastar with numerous small problems including cable
tension and will use the calibrated eyeball method....One problem that I
need advice on is damage to the boom in the area just forward of the
stabilizer on the bottom where the brace for transporting on a trailer
came loose and dented the boom 3in. by 2in. ( I didn't do it ). I
believe it can be repaired using simple patch ( 6061 T3 .040 ) with
structural adhesive and rivets. The boom is original 6063 and I plan to
go 1/2 around and 12in.long with the patch. ....What say yee Kolb
Guru's.? ............Ed Steuber Albion Western NY....brrrrrrr..
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: No more Homer bumps |
Tim and Craig,
You might want to check the list for those interested in buying control
surface ribs from you folks. I think that once my Mk-3 is flying, building a
smooth set of control surfaces would be a Great winter project. Since you
guys already have the pattern worked out for the FS and MK-3 ribs, you could
really speed things up for the average builder starting from scratch.
Just a thought,
Denny
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim Gherkins <rp3420(at)email.sps.mot.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 01, 2001 11:24 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: No more Homer bumps
>
> Denny & Kolbers,
> Thanks for the "well done!" with the anti-homer bump ribs. Uncle Craig
> and myself wanted to do away with the bumps and with Craigs creativity
> and previous experience in light planes and ultralights that is what we
> both came up with.
> However, we did do some homework and found out that 6061 T6 is not the
> best material to bend for rib making. T6 tends to make little micro
> tears in the bend(too springy). So we used 6061 T4 which has far less
> susceptible to tear. We sure do have a process down for making them,
> and have one more flap to build and we are done with all the flight
> control surfaces on the Mrk III extra. Wings will be next.
> We will have a web site up very shortly with more pictures and antics of
> our building projects.
> Thanks Will for showing off the pictures! Again, it was fun to talk and
> get to know Will, as I am sure many of you know.
>
> The two Milows:
> Tim Gherkins- Firestar II
> Craig Nelson- Mark III Extra
>
>
> Denny Rowe wrote:
> >
> >
> > Kolbers,
> > Craigs control surface ribs look exactly like the ribs in the canard of
a
> > Pterodactyl, it is a very clean and strong way to put them together.
> > Well done!
> > Denny Rowe
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Gherkins" <rp3420(at)email.sps.mot.com> |
| Subject: | Re: No more Homer bumps |
Denny,
We have talked about it. By hand it takes some time to shear and bend
all of those ribs. We have even talked about making the tooling to use
on a metal stamp. That turns out to be very expensive in that the only
problem is, if you think about it, that all the ribs on all the control
surfaces on the Mark III/Extra are all a different sizes in length. At
least on the FS the aileron ribs are the same length/ stamp, but the
rudder and elevators are again several stamps would have to be made.
Another problem is that in Phoenix Arizona/ southwest, all year around
is great flying weather! Sure in mid summer its sweltering, but at
altitude its nice and cool. So we don't have a real good reason to stay
indoors and bend metal. Maybe for the right price I could sacrifice a
few weekends making a few sets. Who knows, maybe Kolb may make a change
in their kits or maybe as an upgrade in the near future?
Take care, and thanks for the thought,
Tim
Denny Rowe wrote:
>
>
> Tim and Craig,
> You might want to check the list for those interested in buying control
> surface ribs from you folks. I think that once my Mk-3 is flying, building a
> smooth set of control surfaces would be a Great winter project. Since you
> guys already have the pattern worked out for the FS and MK-3 ribs, you could
> really speed things up for the average builder starting from scratch.
>
> Just a thought,
>
> Denny
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Henry <charles_henry(at)ndscs.nodak.edu> |
Charles Henry
Firestar I, 447 Rotax, Ivoprop, 395 hours on airframe and engine
Hankinson ND 58041, E-mail charles_henry(at)ndscs.nodak.edu
701-242-7540
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: No more Homer bumps |
Howdy Gang:
I kinda like Homer Bumps. All three of my Kolb aircraft
had/have Homer Bumps. It is amazing that all three of them
have done quite well as show airplanes, Homer Bumps and
all. :-)
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: No more Homer bumps |
> Denny,
> We have talked about it. By hand it takes some time to shear and bend
> all of those ribs. We have even talked about making the tooling to use
> on a metal stamp. That turns out to be very expensive in that the only
> problem is, if you think about it, that all the ribs on all the control
> surfaces on the Mark III/Extra are all a different sizes in length. At
> least on the FS the aileron ribs are the same length/ stamp, but the
> rudder and elevators are again several stamps would have to be made.
You can use a laser cutter to cut them all out of one sheet of aluminum, no
mater what the different sizes are. then just a couple of bends and they're
done. How are you attaching the back ends of these? Just one rivet from
one side or both top and bottom? I would worry that putting two rivets in
the tiny tube would really weaken it.
Topher
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Web Si - whale watching |
It's a pleasant surprise hearing from you after all this time. I had hoped
to hear you say your rebuild was finished. How can you stand it ??
Vamoose should be done in a few months, then maybe we can put floats on
both, and go search for las Ballenas, eh ?? Whales on an aviation list
?? Well, I love to shake up the troops from time to time, and I DID
mention my Kolb website. Hope you enjoyed it. Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ben Ransom" <bwr000(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Friday, March 02, 2001 2:55 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Web Si - whale watching
>
>
> Hey Lar,
> So this is a little strange, me popping into the list after keeping my
> yap shut for so long. I'll get back into the fray at some not too
> distant future and give an update on my rebuilding. I'm actually still
> at it, believe it or not, having a good time, and occasionally lurk>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robodres <robodres(at)cmn.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FLYING IN THE MOUNTAINS] |
--- StripMime Report -- processed MIME parts ---
text/html
--- StripMime Errors ---
A message with no text/plain section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using plaintext formatting
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ZepRep251(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: FLYING IN THE MOUNTAINS |
Just keep rubbing it in. You got weather thats flyable and Kolb company to
enjoy it with. You are as bad as Uribe and Lar;all them sunny pictures and
neat scenery.G Aman FS2 cold cloudy and solo in N.E.Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WaltSnyder(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: cuttingh steel and aluminum |
I've seen several good ideas and approaches re cutting steel and aluminum vs.
the old hack saw, and I'd like to share another. If you have access to any
construction jobs in the framing stage, pay them a visit ask if you can
gather the old Marathon carbide 7 1/4 in. framing circular saw blades that
the framers use and discard at the job. As a framing contractor, I usually
save a bunch from the jobs and use them on my Skil saw to cut steel,
aluminum, even composition shakes when demo-ing a roof. I've used them to cut
1/4 in. steel I beams, 2 in. bolts, truck bumpers, you name it. A used blade
that a framer will discard will still cut through steel tubing like butter.
You made need to toss the blade after several cuts, but you can't beat the
price, and most people have a circular power saw.
Walt Snyder
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: cuttingh steel and aluminum |
Walt,
Your "carbide" idea intrests me. But what is it about the "framing" blades that
makes them different than other carbides? Do the have more teeth per inch?
John Jung
WaltSnyder(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> I've seen several good ideas and approaches re cutting steel and aluminum vs.
> the old hack saw, and I'd like to share another. If you have access to any
> construction jobs in the framing stage, pay them a visit ask if you can
> gather the old Marathon carbide 7 1/4 in. framing circular saw blades that
> the framers use and discard at the job.
snip.......
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: No more Homer bumps |
How about selling simple pattern drawings for he ribs? This would keep the
price down for everyone.
Denny
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim Gherkins <rp3420(at)email.sps.mot.com>
Sent: Friday, March 02, 2001 3:00 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: No more Homer bumps
>
> Denny,
> We have talked about it. By hand it takes some time to shear and bend
> all of those ribs. We have even talked about making the tooling to use
> on a metal stamp. That turns out to be very expensive in that the only
> problem is, if you think about it, that all the ribs on all the control
> surfaces on the Mark III/Extra are all a different sizes in length. At
> least on the FS the aileron ribs are the same length/ stamp, but the
> rudder and elevators are again several stamps would have to be made.
>
> Another problem is that in Phoenix Arizona/ southwest, all year around
> is great flying weather! Sure in mid summer its sweltering, but at
> altitude its nice and cool. So we don't have a real good reason to stay
> indoors and bend metal. Maybe for the right price I could sacrifice a
> few weekends making a few sets. Who knows, maybe Kolb may make a change
> in their kits or maybe as an upgrade in the near future?
> Take care, and thanks for the thought,
> Tim
>
> Denny Rowe wrote:
> >
> >
> > Tim and Craig,
> > You might want to check the list for those interested in buying control
> > surface ribs from you folks. I think that once my Mk-3 is flying,
building a
> > smooth set of control surfaces would be a Great winter project. Since
you
> > guys already have the pattern worked out for the FS and MK-3 ribs, you
could
> > really speed things up for the average builder starting from scratch.
> >
> > Just a thought,
> >
> > Denny
>
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron or Mary Payne" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
I got a giant e-mail from this company in NZ with many pictures. It
took what seemed like 15 minutes to load. Did this come through the
Kolb list? I can't find out how they addressed it. I would block
sender if I was sure I wasn't blocking the Kolb list. I don't need
these kinds of e-mails from NZ. I am not going to buy anything from
that far away. It doesn't sound like they have anything to fit a
FireStar any way.
Ron Payne
Gilbertsville, Ky
Building FireStar II
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Richmond" <dvrich(at)earthlink.net> |
Could be!
I'm new at this list stuff. How do I find out and correct the problem?
----- Original Message -----
From: WillUribe(at)aol.com
Sent: Saturday, March 03, 2001 9:20 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Repeats
No problem here. Could it be some of you are subscribed twice?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
"Re: Kolb-List: Repeats" (Mar 3, 9:39am)
I've been getting only the requisite single copy of postings.
To check for double subscriptions, surf over to:
http://www.matronics.com/subscription
and check out the "find" function. Note that generally you
can't subscribe the exact same address more than once, but you
can subscribe addresses that are similar. For example, the
following addresses go to exactly the same place but are
considered different:
dralle(at)matronics.com
dralle(at)mail.matronics.com
The point is, when using the Find function, be sure to use the minimum
unique search string. For example, I might search for "dralle".
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
>--------------
>
>Could be!
>I'm new at this list stuff. How do I find out and correct the
>problem?
>
>>
>>
>>No problem here. Could it be some of you are subscribed twice?
>>
>>--------------
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Great minds discuss ideas,
Average minds discuss events,
Small minds discuss people...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ksbroste(at)aol.com |
?
I'm assembling the main landing gear for my Firestar and finding it extremely
difficult to drill through the "Y" section and then into and through the the
solid axle member. Titanium bits don't seem to touch it. How'd you other
guys handle this? I went out and purchased a cobalt bit 1/4 inch for the AN4
bolt. I'll give that a try tomorrow. If this doesn't work I'll be looking at
taking it to a machinist. HELP!
frustrated and angry,
Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Saturday's Flight |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
Guys,
Talk about a perfect day for winter flying. It could not have been
better. Gary and I got out there on the lake at 8:30 this morning and we
played in the air all day long. Gary had the same old idle problem with
his engine after starting it up even after we drained a cup of gas out. I
suggested that we take off his carb and use my old 377 carb. Low and
behold, that was it! His engine idled fine, so we took of and flew over
to Lake Minnewashta and spent much of the morning doing touch-n-goes. I
left hoping Gary would follow, but when I got back to Cooks Bay, no Gary.
I went back after topping off and found him still practicing his
landings. We came back to Cooks Bay and decided to go to lunch. Gary
bought lunch for making his engine work.
After lunch we decided to make a flight over to Wayzata skimming the
lake. Gary was right off my right wingtip all the way there. I turned
around, climbed to 1000' , headed to Lake Waconia just as we had planned.
I flew the 20 miles all the way over there and landed in the middle of
the lake. I waited for Gary and he never showed up. I decided to go
looking for him, and flew 20 miles back to Wayzata. Still no Gary.
I figured he had plenty of gas and wanted to do some sight seeing, so I
headed back to Cooks Bay. After about 20 minutes, here he comes. His
excuse was that I climbed too fast and I was gone before he could catch
up. Yeah right.
Anyway, we practiced about 25 touch-n-goes out there on Cooks Bay that
last hour or so before sunset. Gary really got a workout and has got his
landings down pretty good. All of these last ones were crosswind
landings, by the way.
There were many planes in the air today including a Buckeye PPC that I
circled around.
Great day for flying and I'm glad to see that Gary got that practice in
because he will need every bit of it this spring when it comes time to
land on a runway.
I think I've got a new flying buddy, now all I have to do is teach him to
stick with me on cross country flights.
For you guys on the kolb-list, it was 40 degrees today with blue skies
and we were flying off frozen lakes here in Minnesota.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)epix.net> |
?
Ken,
The solid axle is heat treated and has some hardness to it, so it takes good
bits and some patience. I think you'll find it easier if you start with an
1/8" drill bit. Then drill through with a 3/16, then the 1/4. Be careful
not to spin the bit too fast which will result in over heating of the bit,
which will ruin it. A little cutting oil applied to the bit as you are
dilling will help too.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Ksbroste(at)aol.com
Sent: Saturday, March 03, 2001 9:19 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: How in the %#@*
?
I'm assembling the main landing gear for my Firestar and finding it
extremely
difficult to drill through the "Y" section and then into and through the the
solid axle member. Titanium bits don't seem to touch it. How'd you other
guys handle this? I went out and purchased a cobalt bit 1/4 inch for the
AN4
bolt. I'll give that a try tomorrow. If this doesn't work I'll be looking at
taking it to a machinist. HELP!
frustrated and angry,
Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WaltSnyder(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: cuttingh steel and aluminum |
In a message dated 3/3/01 5:09:05 AM Pacific Standard Time, jrjung(at)execpc.com
writes:
<<
Your "carbide" idea intrests me. But what is it about the "framing" blades
that
makes them different than other carbides? Do the have more teeth per inch?
>>
John,
Good question, may be just marketing. I know the ones that we use have 24
teeth, laser cut relief cuts to prevent heat distortion, and a shoulder to
help prevent kickback. The kerf, or cut, is very narrow also. The Marathon is
marketed heavily to the framer in Calif. We even use the old blades to score
concrete, and "grind" off protruding bolts in framed wood members. Bottom
line is I haven't found anything I can't cut quickly with a Skill saw with
them. All with discarded blades. I wouldn't purchase them ($9 apc) specially
to cut steel though, as I don't think they would last long. We use them for a
bunch of cuts, then toss 'em.
Walt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
>
>Could be!
>I'm new at this list stuff. How do I find out and correct the problem?
Look at the heading. Is your address the same on both messages? If not
un subscribe from one of them.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ruth Schlatter & Duncan Sweet" <mays(at)mail.telepac.pt> |
| Subject: | Re: How in the %#@* |
?
My 2 1/2 cents,
a drill bit cuts best when turned very slowly and constantly oiled, the oil
lubricates and cools the work as well as the bit; two people to do the job
helps; one driller and one oiler. If you are using a drill press, the
slowest combination of belt pulleys will not be too slow. If you initially
went at the axle with a lot of testesterone and a whizzing drill motor you
may have overheated the drill bit and the work; did you see some smoke?
drill bits should NEVER smoke. If the axle did get too hot the steel may
have heat treated itself even more and be a real %#
? to drill into again.
As Dennis pointed out starting with a new 1/8" bit turning very slowly will
be you best bet.
You don't have to take the work to a machinist, but you should do it like he
would!!
Dark drill bits are not cheap, they just need to be used correctly. Any
drill bit marked "HSS" is made of a good quality high speed steel and if
turned slowly and oiled it will cut almost anything a homebuilder will ever
encounter.
I use soja cooking oil as a cutting oil and find it also works magic
Good luck,
Duncan Sweet
Horta Faial Azores
mays(at)mail.telepac.pt
From: "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)epix.net>
RE: Kolb-List: How in the %#@*
?
Ken,
The solid axle is heat treated and has some hardness to it, so it takes good
bits and some patience. I think you'll find it easier if you start with an
1/8" drill bit. Then drill through with a 3/16, then the 1/4. Be careful
not to spin the bit too fast which will result in over heating of the bit,
which will ruin it. A little cutting oil applied to the bit as you are
dilling will help too.
Dennis
Original Message-----
I'm assembling the main landing gear for my Firestar and finding it
extremely difficult to drill through the "Y" section and then into and
through the the solid axle member. Titanium bits don't seem to touch it.
How'd you other guys handle this? I went out and purchased a cobalt bit 1/4
inch for the AN4 bolt. I'll give that a try tomorrow. If this doesn't work
I'll be looking at taking it to a machinist. HELP!
frustrated and angry,
Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com> |
--- larrybiglar wrote:
>
>
> It's a pleasant surprise hearing from you after all this time. I had
> hoped
> to hear you say your rebuild was finished. How can you stand it ??
Thanks Lar. I had hoped I'd be able to say I was finished too. But,
my project has been a back-burner, and the front burners have had a
lot cookin. The slowness of my rebuild hasn't really bothered me.
However, I'll certainly admit to some frustrating times when I've
thought I was almost complete with something only to find that one more
part was not quite right. This is the education part of a rebuild or
restoration project I guess, and it makes a brand new kit seem like a
luxury.
I've taken some extra time to design and make my own version of turned
up wing tips (concave on the bottom, curved to match the airfoil on
top). They turned out way cool IMHO. Another cool, satisfying thing
was during rebuild of one wing. Almost all on that wing was lost
except the drag strut, its steel braces, the root rib, and the AL sheet
pieces that make the strong box where the lift, drag, and main come
together. I had bought a new main spar and H section and the challenge
was to get the H installed and matched to the salvaged old pieces. Ya
know that H can be a little bit of a challenge by itself, so you can
imagine the grand feeling I had when I got the H in, and the drag strut
and sheet AL box ass'y fit in with *perfect* alignment from the old
holes to the new spar and H. (maybe you had to be there.)
My biggest nightmare had always been the steel cage -- I had gotten
help from an A&P a year ago, but then wasn't satisfied with part of it
and let it sit for a year while I rebuilt the wings and tail (at a slow
pace of course). The remaining problem with the cage was that the left
gear-leg sleeve still had a slight bend in it. The A&P simply said it
would not be possible to get it straighter, and we had finished off
with him welding a doubling piece on it. This gave back more than
original strength there, but made even more permanent the slight bend.
The seriousness of the bend could be reduced to "cosmetic" if I chose
to solve it by making the landing gear legs different length by 3/4",
so you can see I'm being fussier than I should if I just wanted to get
flying. Anyway, I learned about a technique called flame
straightening. Maybe many of you have heard of this -- it is really
sort of an amazing trick. Basically, heating steel results in it
shrinking upon return to normal temp, more than it expanded from the
heating, and therefore more than it's original length. This I'm sure
was originally learned thru frustration, with steel structures twanging
to unwanted dimensions when they're pulled off a jig. But, you can use
it to advantage too, by heating just one side of a tube for example, to
shorten that side, meaning you can take out a slight bend (or add one).
Obviously, care should be taken to avoid ruining ductility
characteristics by adding too much heat or by rapid cooling, or doing
this at all to certain parts. With this process, I was able to get the
gear sleeve, with doubler, just the tad bit straighter that I wanted.
I think now that I'll have the option of making steel tube legs, which
insert all the way up to the top of the A. (I'm not saying I won't
have to push and grunt to get it in there.)
There are other good things I've learned in the rebuild, and I'll just
mention one more of them for now. When I built my wings the first
time, I syringed some epoxy into the teeny gaps that exists in all of
the rib flange to main spar joints. The flanges are held by 4 rivets
fore and aft, but I felt that filling the remaining gap with epoxy
would help absorb the transfer of vibration load at just the rivet
points. In tear down, those epoxy joints were still extremely strong,
with great adhesion and no brittling. In fact, I had serious trouble
getting the ribs free even after removing all the flange rivets. This
is not at all to imply that the epoxy in any way is better than the
rivets (that would be foolish), but I really do think that it must lend
to a stronger and longer lasting wing structure at a cost of only a
couple ounces per wing. I had also used proseal epoxy in a couple
places to prevent metal to metal wear, and this proved to be a great
thing. Examples of this are where there are crossing triangle AL
braces (1/4" and 5/16" tubes) at the ends of the wings, and also where
the steel drag strut braces cross some of the 5/16" AL members of
adjacent ribs. Here is a picture from my original build where you can
see the epoxy in the flange to rib gap and drag strut brace to rib
member ( http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom/BensAlbum/build/8drgstr.html )
That's it for now. I still have a ways to go, and anticipate doing a
few more customizing things. Lar, I'm sure you'll beat me into the air
by a long shot.
-Ben Ransom
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Watson <Scott(at)disney.com> |
| Subject: | Mounting BRS on Boom |
Quick Question:
The easiest way for me to mount my BRS 750 CANISTER is on the BOOM,
aiming a little down and to the side (probably too the left, so I can
take out some of that rudder trim!). The folks at BRS were ambivalent.
The two suggested mountings, between the wings and just rear of the
fuel tank inside the fuselage are a lot of work for me. One means
moving my front mounted muffler which is fastened to the root tube,
the other means cutting the skin, probably moving a 5 gal tank and
probably re-skining the plane.
If I need to do a lot of work, knowing myself, it will be a long time
before that parachute is someplace where it could do some good in an
emergency.
Thanks in advance.
-Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Lovett" <lovett(at)aerotwin.com> |
| Subject: | metal fatigue .... |
The fatigue life of any particular metal is a function of
the cyclic stresses it sees. Typically, the higher the peak
stress, the shorter the lifespan (in terms of cycles). Also,
the stress ratio is important...if metal is subjected to
stress reversals (negative ratio) in service, its fatigue
life will be shorter than for a part that is always in, say,
tensile stress.
The fatigue behavior of a given type of metal is presented in
charts called 'S-n' charts. The ultimate source for FAA and
military accepted design data for metals is:
MIL-HDBK-5H
Title: METALLIC MATERIALS AND ELEMENTS FOR AEROSPACE VEHICLE STRUCTURES
It is available online as a 42meg .pdf; go here if you're interested:
http://astimage.daps.dla.mil/quicksearch/basic_profile.cfm?ident_number=5387
6
At the page top, look for ' > does anyone here know anything about metal fatigue? i've got an '84
> > firestar and i was wondering - how long will the frame last?, without
> > damage of course.
> > ...................... tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Alexander <gtalexander(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sunday's Flight |
WillUribe(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Greetings Kolb fans,
> Yesterday, Dave and I flew a total of 4 hours to a small town east of El Paso.
> Here are some of the pictures we took.
> http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/dell01.html
> AOL users click here
>
> Enjoy,
> Will Uribe
> El Paso, TX
> FireStar II
> http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane
Will:
You and Dave keep this up and you will have every ULer
buying a Kolb FS and moving to SW Texas.
Thanks for sharing.
George Alexander
http://gtalexander.home.att.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WillUribe(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Mounting BRS on Boom |
It has been done, take a look.
http://gtalexander.home.att.net/images/dom_01b.jpg
In a message dated 3/5/01 10:47:37 AM Eastern Standard Time, Scott(at)disney.com
writes:
> Quick Question:
>
> The easiest way for me to mount my BRS 750 CANISTER is on the BOOM,
> aiming a little down and to the side (probably too the left, so I can
> take out some of that rudder trim!). The folks at BRS were ambivalent.
>
> The two suggested mountings, between the wings and just rear of the
> fuel tank inside the fuselage are a lot of work for me. One means
> moving my front mounted muffler which is fastened to the root tube,
> the other means cutting the skin, probably moving a 5 gal tank and
> probably re-skining the plane.
>
> If I need to do a lot of work, knowing myself, it will be a long time
> before that parachute is someplace where it could do some good in an
> emergency.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> -Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clay Stuart" <cstuart(at)searnet.com> |
I am not quite certain how to install the bow tip braces on the Mark IIIXtra
wing spar. The plans don't show the number of rivets or how far the 1/2" x
.035 braces extend into the wing spar. Also, do you bend the top brace to
align with the inside of the wing spar and the other end to be parallel to
the gusset on the wing tip? I haven't tried bending any of the 1/2" tubing
so far.
Thanks,
Clay Stuart
building Mark IIIXtra
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Mk 3 prop diameters |
In a message dated 2/28/01 7:48:07 PM Pacific Standard Time,
rowedl(at)alltel.net writes:
> Thanks for the info, how do you like your Powerfin? Is it the F model?
> How is the noise level compared to other props? I assume you have the 3.47
> to 1 gear box since you are running the 72" blade?
>
Denny:
I have had great luck so far with the Powerfin. What I am most
interested in a prop is smoothness. I think that decreased vibration has
good effects all through the aircraft. The 72 inch IVO I had was silky
smooth, but there are serious problems with long IVOs turning slowly. My
powerfin is nearly as smooth, and has had zero maintenance issues.
The noise level is good, but I can't say its significantly different
from the IVO. Where the real difference in noise happens is when you slow
the prop down with the gear box. I also suspect that the rotary valve on the
582 stops some of the intake side noise. One thing is for sure, the annoying
high vacuum cleaner whine I had in the 503/2.58 is gone.
Mark R. Sellers
Kolb Twinstar Mark III
N496BM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net> |
Anybody hear from Lindy Linderman yet?
Denny
Mk-3 Western PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "toddatlucile" <toddatlucile(at)alltel.net> |
Lindy is alive and well. The Southern Flyers Ultralight Assn. had their
monthly meeting at the Army approach radar site at Fort Rucker last
night. A very informative presentation. I asked Lindy why he had stopped
writing to the Kolb list. He had updated his computer and had trouble
with it every since. He told me to write this to the list. He will be
back on shortly. John Todd FS #30 Lower Georgia.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> |
Well John, Mr Hauck, I just finished watching a National Geographic
Channel presentation about an expedition that took 2 of the big Antonav
biplanes, and tried to fly them over the North Pole. On the way, they
made a stop at Point Barrow, AK, for final provisions and refueling.
That is one desolate, isolated, nasty, cold, lonesome chunk of real
estate that you're planning on flying to.......................wish I
was going too. Big Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sunday's Flight |
In a message dated Mon, 5 Mar 2001 5:17:37 PM Eastern Standard Time, WillUribe(at)aol.com
writes:
The FireStar is the only way to fly, they are just way too much fun. When I
was looking at kits to build, I was down to the Challenger II or the
FireStar. My Dad wanted me to get the Challenger with the duel controls but
I wanted to land off field so I went with the tail dragger. Now, my Dad
likes the Kolbra better then the Challenger.
Here in the SW we are slowly running out of water so this area may become a
ghost town.
Will
Will...I hear you on the water thing in El Paso, when I was there in '77-'80 the
statement was that of all the rainfall in the USA, 75% was east of the mississippi
and 25% was west of the Mississippi. Of that 25% of that east of the Mississippi
was used and 75% of that west of the Mississippi was used. Even then
there was talk of a big pipeline from the great lakes to the El Paso region to
supplement the aquefer that gets its replenishment from the Rockies. Also the
Rio Grande was only 10% of the water coming from the north...close to 90% was
from the aquefer as rainfall in the area is only around 9" a year.
GeoR38 Akron Oh
presently in the Villages of Florida near Ocala
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duncan McBride" <duncan.mcbride(at)worldnet.att.net> |
I noticed a post you (Dennis) made to the Kolb list a while back where you
question the use of the IVO light three-blade on a 912 or 912S. I'm putting
a new 912 on a Mark III and I called new Kolb for a prop and they took my
order for the IVO. I was drop shipped the light version of the three blade.
Nobody raised any question. This is the prop listed on the engine package
old Kolb described on their old green Mark III price list.
So, if nobody's ever used a three blade IVO ultralight quick-adjust, 70"
diameter, on a 912, I would be a little concerned to find I'm out in
experimental country - one reason I went with Kolb was to get a proven
package with the 912. Should I be trying to trade this in on a
medium-weight IVO, or Magnum? Or put it up for sale and get a Warp?
IVO rates the prop up to 100hp, but that doesn't mean it will provide the
performance at the rpm and airspeed I'll be experiencing. Any help out
there?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
> That is one desolate, isolated, nasty, cold, lonesome chunk of real
> estate that you're planning on flying to.......................wish I
> was going too. Big Lar.
Big Lar and Gang:
Yep.
And Barrow is 205 miles (straight line) from the end of the
road, Dead Horse. The biggest flying problem with the North
Slope area is weather. It is unpredictable, low visibility,
extremely windy, and cold. It can snow any day of the
year. Summers on the North Slope are much worse than
winters in Alabama. Another problem is inexperience flying
in that area. I have spent 4 days north of the Brooks
Range. The North Slope begins at the northern edge of the
Brooks. I will rely heavily on the guys at the Flight
Service Stations at Dead Horse and Barrow. My biggest asset
will be Jim and Teena Helmericks. Jim is the son of Bud
Helmericks, a famous bush pilot, hunting and fishing guide
and resident of Helmericks at the mouth of the Colville
River, 48 miles NW of Dead Horse. I have been corresponding
with Teena since last year. These folks live up there on
the Arctic Ocean year round. They are savy to the Arctic.
I am excited about having a chance to visit them this
summer. Their web site is:
http://www.akol.com/goldenplover/index.htm
I have been tracking weather at Dead Horse and Barrow. I
can go in the archives of Weather Underground and pull up
daily weather for the last 10 or so years at both places.
Low visibility usually occurs daily during the summer.
However, I will have 24 hours of daylight, so I can pick and
choose the best time to make my attempt, both to and from
Barrow. I got to do it twice. :-)
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)epix.net> |
Hi Duncan,
Old Kolb ran the 3-blade "light" Ivo on both the Mark-III and the SlingShot.
My main objection was to use the IVO on the faster aircraft such as the
SlingShot and the Laser, where it does not do as well as other propellers -
top speed suffers with the IVO on faster aircraft.
For slower aircraft, the IVO does fine. The IVO on the Mark-III with a 912,
as I recall did fine too. The 912 turns the IVO fast enough to keep it
happy. (I don't think the IVO takes well to turning too slowly such as on
the 3.47:1 ratio on a 582.) Old Kolb developed a 4" spacer (with Saber MFG)
for use with the IVO on the 912 to keep it further away from the trailing
edge - for blade flex, but also for noise. Ivo's 2-1/2" spacer was tried
for awhile, but we just didn't feel comfortable with 80 HP spinning a prop
without a centering boss. (The 2-1/2" spacer does not have a centering
boss.) This 2-1/2" spacer may be okay for the smaller engines, but we
wanted something more substantial with the 912. This 4" spacer was
relatively expensive - about $300. I would certainly want that 4" spacer
with the IVO on a 912.
The Warp would be an excellent choice too, but I would not feel comfortable
placing it on a 4" extension (the flexibility of the IVO reduces the stress
placed on the gear box and this IMO allows the IVO to be used with a longer
extension). Old Kolb went to a 2" spacer as I recall with the Warp. But it
was still noisier than the Ivo. Haven't any experience with anything else
on a 912. A Warp on a 912 with no spacer will scream like a banshee from
...
Hope this helps,
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Duncan McBride
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2001 7:11 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: IVO Prop
I noticed a post you (Dennis) made to the Kolb list a while back where you
question the use of the IVO light three-blade on a 912 or 912S. I'm putting
a new 912 on a Mark III and I called new Kolb for a prop and they took my
order for the IVO. I was drop shipped the light version of the three blade.
Nobody raised any question. This is the prop listed on the engine package
old Kolb described on their old green Mark III price list.
So, if nobody's ever used a three blade IVO ultralight quick-adjust, 70"
diameter, on a 912, I would be a little concerned to find I'm out in
experimental country - one reason I went with Kolb was to get a proven
package with the 912. Should I be trying to trade this in on a
medium-weight IVO, or Magnum? Or put it up for sale and get a Warp?
IVO rates the prop up to 100hp, but that doesn't mean it will provide the
performance at the rpm and airspeed I'll be experiencing. Any help out
there?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net> |
Duncan,
I asked the same queation as you & recieved several replies from people
who had the UL 3-blade Ivo on a 912. All were happy with it. The only
negative response was that that prop was not efficient at higher cruise
speeds & that it probably would not be a good match for the SlingShot.
...Richard Swiderski
PS: Does anyone have any first or even 2nd hand knowledge of Ivo's Medium
prop? How it compares to the Ivo UL version or the Warp?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Duncan McBride" <duncan.mcbride(at)worldnet.att.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2001 7:11 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: IVO Prop
>
> I noticed a post you (Dennis) made to the Kolb list a while back where you
> question the use of the IVO light three-blade on a 912 or 912S. I'm
putting
> a new 912 on a Mark III and I called new Kolb for a prop and they took my
> order for the IVO. I was drop shipped the light version of the three
blade.
> Nobody raised any question. This is the prop listed on the engine package
> old Kolb described on their old green Mark III price list.
>
> So, if nobody's ever used a three blade IVO ultralight quick-adjust, 70"
> diameter, on a 912, I would be a little concerned to find I'm out in
> experimental country - one reason I went with Kolb was to get a proven
> package with the 912. Should I be trying to trade this in on a
> medium-weight IVO, or Magnum? Or put it up for sale and get a Warp?
>
> IVO rates the prop up to 100hp, but that doesn't mean it will provide the
> performance at the rpm and airspeed I'll be experiencing. Any help out
> there?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duncan McBride" <duncan.mcbride(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Thanks, this helps a lot. And thanks to Richard Swiderski. All this makes
a lot of sense. My only recent experience has been with the Bailey-Moyes
Dragonfly hanglider aerotug, which needs to fly at about 28-35 mph. The
guys that have been using these with 912's and 914's have been using
Magnums, and experimenting with blades with larger area. I thought the
higher pitch, lower area IVO ultralight would work ok on a Mark III, but I
began to wonder. Thanks for damping down the butterflies. I'm about ready
to fill the tanks with oil, coolant, and fuel, and start it up for the first
time, so I guess I'm getting nervous.
Appreciate the help - Duncan
.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)epix.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2001 8:01 PM
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: IVO Prop
>
> Hi Duncan,
>
> Old Kolb ran the 3-blade "light" Ivo on both the Mark-III and the
SlingShot.
> My main objection was to use the IVO on the faster aircraft such as the
> SlingShot and the Laser, where it does not do as well as other
propellers -
> top speed suffers with the IVO on faster aircraft.
>
> For slower aircraft, the IVO does fine. The IVO on the Mark-III with a
912,
> as I recall did fine too. The 912 turns the IVO fast enough to keep it
> happy. (I don't think the IVO takes well to turning too slowly such as on
> the 3.47:1 ratio on a 582.) Old Kolb developed a 4" spacer (with Saber
MFG)
> for use with the IVO on the 912 to keep it further away from the trailing
> edge - for blade flex, but also for noise. Ivo's 2-1/2" spacer was tried
> for awhile, but we just didn't feel comfortable with 80 HP spinning a prop
> without a centering boss. (The 2-1/2" spacer does not have a centering
> boss.) This 2-1/2" spacer may be okay for the smaller engines, but we
> wanted something more substantial with the 912. This 4" spacer was
> relatively expensive - about $300. I would certainly want that 4" spacer
> with the IVO on a 912.
>
> The Warp would be an excellent choice too, but I would not feel
comfortable
> placing it on a 4" extension (the flexibility of the IVO reduces the
stress
> placed on the gear box and this IMO allows the IVO to be used with a
longer
> extension). Old Kolb went to a 2" spacer as I recall with the Warp. But
it
> was still noisier than the Ivo. Haven't any experience with anything else
> on a 912. A Warp on a 912 with no spacer will scream like a banshee from
> ...
>
>
> Hope this helps,
>
> Dennis
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Duncan McBride
> Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2001 7:11 PM
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com; flykolb(at)epix.net
> Subject: Kolb-List: IVO Prop
>
>
>
>
> I noticed a post you (Dennis) made to the Kolb list a while back where you
> question the use of the IVO light three-blade on a 912 or 912S. I'm
putting
> a new 912 on a Mark III and I called new Kolb for a prop and they took my
> order for the IVO. I was drop shipped the light version of the three
blade.
> Nobody raised any question. This is the prop listed on the engine package
> old Kolb described on their old green Mark III price list.
>
> So, if nobody's ever used a three blade IVO ultralight quick-adjust, 70"
> diameter, on a 912, I would be a little concerned to find I'm out in
> experimental country - one reason I went with Kolb was to get a proven
> package with the 912. Should I be trying to trade this in on a
> medium-weight IVO, or Magnum? Or put it up for sale and get a Warp?
>
> IVO rates the prop up to 100hp, but that doesn't mean it will provide the
> performance at the rpm and airspeed I'll be experiencing. Any help out
> there?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SGreenpg(at)aol.com |
Dennis S.,
I have just finished a Twinstar Mark III and the plans call for the CG to be
25% to 35% of wing cord. I was talking to someone with an older Twinstar and
their plans called for 20% to 37%. Do you know why the change?
Steven Green
Etowah TN
N58SG 18 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TCowan1917(at)aol.com |
My question is mostly to Dennis. Has anyone done thisor is it feasible to
strip my great ole firestire and put a stronger (or longer) drag strut on my
five rib wing to give it more speed or strength and add probably three to
four inches in lenghth to the cage (I am a great welder) and add a 503
without a real problem? My weight is usually around 175 lbs so adding three
to four inches forward for CG would probably be about right. That should
give me the strength for an added ten miles per wouldnt it. I would of
course still have to watch the speed and weight. I dont think I can ''just
add a 503' and get away with it. Can I? Anybody done that? Dont need the
speed or the cargo weight but would like the dependability of a 503 over a
447. Ted Cowan, Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TCowan1917(at)aol.com |
My question is mostly to Dennis. Has anyone done thisor is it feasible to
strip my great ole firestire and put a stronger (or longer) drag strut on my
five rib wing to give it more speed or strength and add probably three to
four inches in lenghth to the cage (I am a great welder) and add a 503
without a real problem? My weight is usually around 175 lbs so adding three
to four inches forward for CG would probably be about right. That should
give me the strength for an added ten miles per wouldnt it. I would of
course still have to watch the speed and weight. I dont think I can ''just
add a 503' and get away with it. Can I? Anybody done that? Dont need the
speed or the cargo weight but would like the dependability of a 503 over a
447. Ted Cowan, Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Steuber" <esteuber(at)rochester.rr.com> |
| Subject: | antique or oldies but goodies |
I am restoring an Ultrastar that I acquired with a Culver 50 X 36 prop
on a ULII 02 Cayuna with a 2.04 gear reduction.What can I expect as far
as takeoff ( 200# pilot and 5 gallons gas ) and cruise speed at 5300rpm
? It may be a little overweight with an enclosure and I am also
concerned with CG. Can anyone tell me what the CG range range is ? I
have been in the archives but it is not specific enough. ...Looking
forward to flying this in the spring, probably in May. Spring comes late
in western NY. Summer is a 2 day event and falls on a weekend this
year.Cockpit enclosures are mandatory for at least 8 months. By the way,
responses to the questions may assume colder than standard
day......Thanks , Ed Steuber, Albion , NY modified Ultrastar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)ldl.net> |
Local guy here in Phenix City, Al. has a recently finished Rans S6S with a
912S. He started with the (factory recommended) 2 blade wide tip Warp (70"
I think)... it would not absorb the horsepower even with full pitch dialed
in and he could easily make it cavitate on takeoff (scary sound!) It also
started to delaminate near the root because of the vibrations that the
cavitating was putting on it. He then switched to the (then factory
recommended) 3 blade Warp taper tip and had less vibration but still enough
to start shaking things up enough to scare him. By this time RANS let him
know they were having fits finding the right prop for their factory planes
as well and were testing a 2 blade wood Sensinich (sp?) He ordered the
medium 3 blade IVO and wasn't happy with it either. Similar vibration and he
lost about 15-20 mph off his top speed as compared with the Warps. IVO
asked him to do some experimenting for them and he agreed to butcher their
prop for them , including trying it in a 2 blade configuration and cutting
the tips down by an inch at the time to see if it would load the prop up to
get rid of any of the vibration. He also (as a byproduct ) of the vibration
had one of the leading edge tapes come off. Now let met say this...these
troubles were on a 912S (100hp not a 80hp 912) and this was a tractor
configuration. Their are a few on this list that have used 912S's on Kolb's
with absolutely no problems and I think every one of them that I know of
(John Russell, the Woods bros. and John Hauck) ALL USED A WARP 3 blade taper
tip!!! So that should say something right there... The problems my
friend(and RANS) are having are peculiar to say the least and any ideas are
appreciated...
Jeremy Casey
jrcasey(at)ldl.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard
Swiderski
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2001 7:49 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: IVO Prop
Duncan,
I asked the same queation as you & recieved several replies from people
who had the UL 3-blade Ivo on a 912. All were happy with it. The only
negative response was that that prop was not efficient at higher cruise
speeds & that it probably would not be a good match for the SlingShot.
...Richard Swiderski
PS: Does anyone have any first or even 2nd hand knowledge of Ivo's Medium
prop? How it compares to the Ivo UL version or the Warp?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Duncan McBride" <duncan.mcbride(at)worldnet.att.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2001 7:11 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: IVO Prop
>
> I noticed a post you (Dennis) made to the Kolb list a while back where you
> question the use of the IVO light three-blade on a 912 or 912S. I'm
putting
> a new 912 on a Mark III and I called new Kolb for a prop and they took my
> order for the IVO. I was drop shipped the light version of the three
blade.
> Nobody raised any question. This is the prop listed on the engine package
> old Kolb described on their old green Mark III price list.
>
> So, if nobody's ever used a three blade IVO ultralight quick-adjust, 70"
> diameter, on a 912, I would be a little concerned to find I'm out in
> experimental country - one reason I went with Kolb was to get a proven
> package with the 912. Should I be trying to trade this in on a
> medium-weight IVO, or Magnum? Or put it up for sale and get a Warp?
>
> IVO rates the prop up to 100hp, but that doesn't mean it will provide the
> performance at the rpm and airspeed I'll be experiencing. Any help out
> there?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Russell" <john(at)rometool.com> |
Hi all, Jeremy,
I am pretty sure John Hauck is using the taper tip, I am using and the
Wood brothers
are using the 72" 3 blade paddle warp, don't know if that makes much
difference but I
thought I would throw my 2 cents in. The only problem any of us has seen has
been
during start up, getting through some bucking, then it's smooth as silk from
there. We are
also using a 4" prop spacer.
John Russell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)ldl.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 8:37 AM
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: IVO Prop
> (John Russell, the Woods bros. and John Hauck) ALL USED A WARP 3 blade
taper
> tip!!! So that should say something right there... The problems my
> friend(and RANS) are having are peculiar to say the least and any ideas
are
> appreciated...
>
> Jeremy Casey
> jrcasey(at)ldl.net
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard
> Swiderski
> Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2001 7:49 PM
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: IVO Prop
>
>
>
>
> Duncan,
>
> I asked the same queation as you & recieved several replies from
people
> who had the UL 3-blade Ivo on a 912. All were happy with it. The only
> negative response was that that prop was not efficient at higher cruise
> speeds & that it probably would not be a good match for the SlingShot.
> ...Richard Swiderski
>
> PS: Does anyone have any first or even 2nd hand knowledge of Ivo's Medium
> prop? How it compares to the Ivo UL version or the Warp?
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Duncan McBride" <duncan.mcbride(at)worldnet.att.net>
> To: ;
> Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2001 7:11 PM
> Subject: Kolb-List: IVO Prop
>
>
>
> >
> > I noticed a post you (Dennis) made to the Kolb list a while back where
you
> > question the use of the IVO light three-blade on a 912 or 912S. I'm
> putting
> > a new 912 on a Mark III and I called new Kolb for a prop and they took
my
> > order for the IVO. I was drop shipped the light version of the three
> blade.
> > Nobody raised any question. This is the prop listed on the engine
package
> > old Kolb described on their old green Mark III price list.
> >
> > So, if nobody's ever used a three blade IVO ultralight quick-adjust, 70"
> > diameter, on a 912, I would be a little concerned to find I'm out in
> > experimental country - one reason I went with Kolb was to get a proven
> > package with the 912. Should I be trying to trade this in on a
> > medium-weight IVO, or Magnum? Or put it up for sale and get a Warp?
> >
> > IVO rates the prop up to 100hp, but that doesn't mean it will provide
the
> > performance at the rpm and airspeed I'll be experiencing. Any help out
> > there?
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Jeremy and Gang:
Sounds like a problem peculiar to that particular airplane
and engine.
I have flown my 912S 95.0 hours, 72" 3 blade Warp Drive with
12.5 degrees of pitch, and a two inch prop extension with
absolutely not problems except my facial muscles get tired
and cramped because I can not help but grin big time every
time I take off and climb with my big fat overweight MK
III. :-)
Before the 912S we flew 1135.0 hours with the 912 turning a
70" 3 blade Warp Drive. Both the 70 and 72 were fast taper
blades. No problems here either.
Once dialed in, it is "set and forget." Never had to
balance a Warp Drive. Only maintenance on the 70" prop was
some rain erosion. This problem has been solved by
extending the nickle leading edge an additional 5 inches on
the new 72" prop.
Looking forward to testing with the 6 inch prop extension.
Am really curious if it will, in fact, reduce prop noise and
possibly increase performance. Stay tuned!!!
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
> Looking forward to testing with the 6 inch prop extension.
> john h
Morning Gang:
The above should read "4" instead of 6" prop ext.
That's what I get trying to write with less than one cup of
coffee under my belt. :-)
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)ldl.net> |
My apologies...thanks for setting the record straight. I looked at you
three Georgia boys planes down at SnF last year. My razor sharp memory is
failing. They say your memory is the first to go...I can't remember what
goes second... ;-/
Jeremy
jrcasey(at)ldl.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Russell
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 9:32 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: IVO Prop
Hi all, Jeremy,
I am pretty sure John Hauck is using the taper tip, I am using and the
Wood brothers
are using the 72" 3 blade paddle warp, don't know if that makes much
difference but I
thought I would throw my 2 cents in. The only problem any of us has seen has
been
during start up, getting through some bucking, then it's smooth as silk from
there. We are
also using a 4" prop spacer.
John Russell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)ldl.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 8:37 AM
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: IVO Prop
> (John Russell, the Woods bros. and John Hauck) ALL USED A WARP 3 blade
taper
> tip!!! So that should say something right there... The problems my
> friend(and RANS) are having are peculiar to say the least and any ideas
are
> appreciated...
>
> Jeremy Casey
> jrcasey(at)ldl.net
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard
> Swiderski
> Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2001 7:49 PM
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: IVO Prop
>
>
>
>
> Duncan,
>
> I asked the same queation as you & recieved several replies from
people
> who had the UL 3-blade Ivo on a 912. All were happy with it. The only
> negative response was that that prop was not efficient at higher cruise
> speeds & that it probably would not be a good match for the SlingShot.
> ...Richard Swiderski
>
> PS: Does anyone have any first or even 2nd hand knowledge of Ivo's Medium
> prop? How it compares to the Ivo UL version or the Warp?
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Duncan McBride" <duncan.mcbride(at)worldnet.att.net>
> To: ;
> Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2001 7:11 PM
> Subject: Kolb-List: IVO Prop
>
>
>
> >
> > I noticed a post you (Dennis) made to the Kolb list a while back where
you
> > question the use of the IVO light three-blade on a 912 or 912S. I'm
> putting
> > a new 912 on a Mark III and I called new Kolb for a prop and they took
my
> > order for the IVO. I was drop shipped the light version of the three
> blade.
> > Nobody raised any question. This is the prop listed on the engine
package
> > old Kolb described on their old green Mark III price list.
> >
> > So, if nobody's ever used a three blade IVO ultralight quick-adjust, 70"
> > diameter, on a 912, I would be a little concerned to find I'm out in
> > experimental country - one reason I went with Kolb was to get a proven
> > package with the 912. Should I be trying to trade this in on a
> > medium-weight IVO, or Magnum? Or put it up for sale and get a Warp?
> >
> > IVO rates the prop up to 100hp, but that doesn't mean it will provide
the
> > performance at the rpm and airspeed I'll be experiencing. Any help out
> > there?
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
The only problem any of us has seen has
> been
> during start up, getting through some bucking, then it's smooth as silk from
> there. We are
> also using a 4" prop spacer.
>
> John Russell
John and Gang:
Had a long talk with Ronnie Smith (South Mississippi Light
Aircraft) at Oshkosh, about the gear box chatter, backlash,
etc., on start up with the 912S. We did not have that
problem on the 912 and a 70" Warp Drive. Ronnie seems to
believe that the torque dampner needs to be shimmed tighter
to reduce the tendency to get into gear box chatter during
start up. Eric Tucker told me he thought it was the weight
of the 72" Warp Drive that was causing it combined with the
higher compression of the 912S.
When it is repaired, will fly the MK III to Lucedale, pull
the gearbox, reshim the torque dampner. If that helps,
great!!! If it doesn't, we'll try something else down the
road.
Gear Box chatter at startup on the 912S can be a problem at
times. Normally, it fires right up with no problem. If it
starts chattering, I shut down immediately and try again.
I believe problem is related to the same problem I had with
my 582. First attempt to start, I thought the engine was
going to come apart. Could not get it out of chatter. Come
to find out, the donut in the C Gear box was way too soft.
Eric sent me the correct one and never had another problem.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JIMMY HANKINSON <jhankin(at)planters.net> |
Would some one give me the e-mail address of the site in Atlanta that is
constructing the KOLB list.
FIREFLY # 35
JIMMY HANKINSON
SOUTH EAST GEORGIA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Web Si - whale watching |
Good to see your interest and you back in the groove Ben.
GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: antique or oldies but goodies |
Ed,
I watched a 290lb. guy fly his UltraStar at Sun& Fun & he was
outclimbing many of the planes there. With my old UltraStar which had a full
windshield & front nose cone, I weighed 175 & had a 9 gal seat tank plus a
Side Winder ballistic chute (about 20lbs) mounted to the right of the seat.
I never encountered a CG problem (I hung it from a tree in my yard & she did
fine.)
While you are restoring, there are a few mods you might want to
consider. Give me a call, 352-622-4064, & I'll share some opinions if you'd
like
You'll love your ship! Its probably the funnest to fly Kolb ever made.
...Richard Swiderski
----- Original Message -----
From: "Edward Steuber" <esteuber(at)rochester.rr.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 7:53 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: antique or oldies but goodies
>
> I am restoring an Ultrastar that I acquired with a Culver 50 X 36 prop
> on a ULII 02 Cayuna with a 2.04 gear reduction.What can I expect as far
> as takeoff ( 200# pilot and 5 gallons gas ) and cruise speed at 5300rpm
> ? It may be a little overweight with an enclosure and I am also
> concerned with CG. Can anyone tell me what the CG range range is ? I
> have been in the archives but it is not specific enough. ...Looking
> forward to flying this in the spring, probably in May. Spring comes late
> in western NY. Summer is a 2 day event and falls on a weekend this
> year.Cockpit enclosures are mandatory for at least 8 months. By the way,
> responses to the questions may assume colder than standard
> day......Thanks , Ed Steuber, Albion , NY modified Ultrastar
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)epix.net> |
Ted,
I have always advised against it, for several reasons. When Old Kolb
started using the 503 on FireStars, the switch was made to the 7-rib wing to
accommodate the extra speed and weight. Not that the 503 itself added that
much weight, but it allowed heavier pilots, more equipment, etc. etc. This
is the reason for the weight concerns. There have been some original FS's
fitted with 503's. They work, but who knows what problems might eventually
develop. If I were going to put a 503 on original FS, I would do at least
the following.
1) Reinforce the "nose" portion (in front of main spar) of the wing rib with
the aluminum angles that are typically shown on the end ribs. I would put a
3/4" x 3/4" x 1/16" angle on the upper side and a 1/2" x 1/2" x 1/16" angle
on the bottom of the rib. These angles help strengthen and stiffen the
leading edge by giving it more support than the 5/16" x 035 (or .028) rib
tubing.
2) I would also place the same reinforcing angles on the rear portion of
the outboard rib, except the bottom angle would be 3/4" as well.
3) I would definitely run a 3-blade 62" dia IVO to keep the vibration as low
as possible.
4) You had mentioned about the drag strut: There is really only one
difference in drag struts: the later (503 capable) FS's had a full length
inner sleeve, where your original FS has a sleeve that is only about half
the length of the drag strut. Conceivably you could drill out all the
rivets in the drag strut, remove the sleeve, then insert a full length
sleeve that goes all the way to the main spar gusset. Or you could simply
install all new tubing. Re-using your existing drag strut would have the
advantage of keeping you existing wing alignment. You still don't have the
2 drag strut braces the 7-rib FS's have, but with the full length sleeve you
would still be stronger than the half sleeve.
5) I might install a heavier diagonal brace between the main spar and the
leading edge tube to help stabilize it further. Just add another one, don't
try to remove the existing.
6) (Not so much for the 503, but just a worthwhile reinforcement for low
altitude stalls when there is major bending to the landing gear, or for
hitting ditches,etc. when landing. While I had the cage stripped, I would
weld in some mid-tube braces (about 5/16 x 035) to the bottom longerons in
the rear cage to the diagonals above. I would then run a horizontal brace
between the same points on the lower longerons to one another. This needs
to be place far enough forward to make sure it is below the fuselage tube.
This would help reduce the damage to the lower logerons that sometimes
happens in such accidents.
I may think of some other things, but this is all that comes to mind now.
With all the above, I would feel relatively confident with the 503.
I like the 503 too!
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
TCowan1917(at)aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 7:17 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Older Firestar
My question is mostly to Dennis. Has anyone done thisor is it feasible to
strip my great ole firestire and put a stronger (or longer) drag strut on my
five rib wing to give it more speed or strength and add probably three to
four inches in lenghth to the cage (I am a great welder) and add a 503
without a real problem? My weight is usually around 175 lbs so adding three
to four inches forward for CG would probably be about right. That should
give me the strength for an added ten miles per wouldnt it. I would of
course still have to watch the speed and weight. I dont think I can ''just
add a 503' and get away with it. Can I? Anybody done that? Dont need the
speed or the cargo weight but would like the dependability of a 503 over a
447. Ted Cowan, Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: e-mail address |
| From: | Ray L Baker <rbaker2(at)juno.com> |
Jim,
writes:
>
>
> Would some one give me the e-mail address of the site in Atlanta
> that is
> constructing the KOLB list.
>
> FIREFLY # 35
>
> JIMMY HANKINSON
> SOUTH EAST GEORGIA
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com> |
> 1) Reinforce the "nose" portion (in front of main spar) of the wing
> rib with
> the aluminum angles that are typically shown on the end ribs. I
> would put a
> 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/16" angle on the upper side and a 1/2" x 1/2" x 1/16"
> angle
> on the bottom of the rib.
Dennis: I don't get what you are describing. By aluminum angles do
you mean 90 degree angle stock with one face riveted to the leading
edge tube and the other face riveted to the 5/16 x035 nose ends of the
ribs? BTW, although mine is a KXP (7 rib already), I'm just wanting to
understand what you are describing.
> These angles help strengthen and stiffen the
> leading edge by giving it more support than the 5/16" x 035 (or .028)
> rib
> tubing.
>
[clip]
> hitting ditches,etc. when landing. While I had the cage stripped, I
> would
> weld in some mid-tube braces (about 5/16 x 035) to the bottom
> longerons in
> the rear cage to the diagonals above. I would then run a horizontal
> brace
> between the same points on the lower longerons to one another. This
> needs
> to be place far enough forward to make sure it is below the fuselage
> tube.
> This would help reduce the damage to the lower logerons that
> sometimes
> happens in such accidents.
This is exactly one of the things I'm doing to my cage -- got the
pieces all cut and fitted, and will probably weld it this weekend.
Oddly though, my longeron (left side) wasn't bent from hitting a ditch
but instead from the plane landing upside down and sideways against a
shed -- and fortunately the gear leg was the initial point of contact
to the shed. Basically the impact put excessive forces on the landing
gear (and nearby structure) in the opposite direction of a ditch hit or
horrible 10' high stall landing. One of my options maybe coulda been
just to put get in, fly, and aim for a ditch. :)
-Ben
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TCowan1917(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: reinforcing a FS |
Thank you Dennis. While I am not 'exactly' sure of what you are describing
on the angles on the ribs, I will file this info for when and if I make such
adjustments. I probably would be better off restoring my old firestar at
that time original and selling her off and opting for a newer version FS. (I
would prefer at some point to get an older Mark II or older version
Fergison.)Dont hate me please. At such time I will get all the exact details
to complete the task. Meantime, I have an ultrastar almost completely
restored. Went all the way with it. Cables, the works. A few more things
and she will be ready to fly. This one will go out flying. If anyone is
interested, please email me for details. Ted Cowan. Alabama. p.s. I love
restoring these old critters. Lots of work but it is neat. (dirty job but
someone has to do it)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Older Firestar |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
Dennis and others,
I strengthened my 5-rib wing by adding a .035" leading edge. The original
had a .028" which was easy to dent and fatigue. I then added three 19"
pieces of 3/8" x .035" diagonal braces from the LE to the main spar,
flattening the ends and riveting. The original had only one 5/16" brace
on the inboard to the spar and another from the inboard rib to the spar.
I also added another 3/8" brace in parallel with the 5/16" across the
corner TE on the outboard. The last modification was a replacement 5/16"
tube for the 1/4" tube on the end of the spar to the TE corner. I fold my
wings every time I fly and wanted a tad more strength in that area and
flying with a Rotax 447 (the Original FS came with a 377).
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar
writes:
> Ted,
>
> I have always advised against it, for several reasons. When Old
> Kolb
> started using the 503 on FireStars, the switch was made to the 7-rib
> wing to
> accommodate the extra speed and weight. Not that the 503 itself
> added that
> much weight, but it allowed heavier pilots, more equipment, etc.
> etc. This
> is the reason for the weight concerns. There have been some
> original FS's
> fitted with 503's. They work, but who knows what problems might
> eventually
> develop.> snip
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JIMMY HANKINSON <jhankin(at)planters.net> |
I HAVE JUST PURCHASED A KOLB FIREFLY AND SOON BEGINNING LESSONS.
IN READING THE KOLB LIST, DOES EVERYONE JUST HAVE MKIII AND FIRESTAR?
I HAVE NOT SEEN ANYTHING ON FIREFLYS.
JIMMY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: KOLB FIREFLY |
We got it all here Jimmy, Fireflys, old and new Firestars, quite a few
Slingshots,Mark 2 & 3s, Ultrastars, maybe even a couple old Flyers, and some
original Twinstars.
If ya got a question, ask away, somebody will have the answer.
But you might want to stop capitalizng your print, to the experienced web
surfers the capitals indicate you are shouting, it really ruffles feathers.
Welcome aboard,
Denny Rowe
Building Mk-3 2si 690L-70 Western PA
----- Original Message -----
From: JIMMY HANKINSON <jhankin(at)planters.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2001 10:30 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: KOLB FIREFLY
>
> I HAVE JUST PURCHASED A KOLB FIREFLY AND SOON BEGINNING LESSONS.
> IN READING THE KOLB LIST, DOES EVERYONE JUST HAVE MKIII AND FIRESTAR?
> I HAVE NOT SEEN ANYTHING ON FIREFLYS.
>
> JIMMY
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dale Seitzer <dale(at)gmada.com> |
I fly and original Firestar with the 447 --why trade an engine with great
fuel economy (447) for one with poor fuel economy? I believe the 447 is
as reliable as the 503. when one looks at the cage of the original and
the Firestar II they are very different. If you want more speed for the
original try lightening it buy leaving home the radios and heavy seats and
brakes and streamline the struts and cage. Dale Seitzer
My question is mostly to Dennis. Has anyone done thisor is it feasible to
strip my great ole firestire and put a stronger (or longer) drag strut on
my
five rib wing to give it more speed or strength and add probably three to
four inches in lenghth to the cage (I am a great welder) and add a 503
without a real problem? My weight is usually around 175 lbs so adding
three
to four inches forward for CG would probably be about right. That should
give me the strength for an added ten miles per wouldnt it. I would of
course still have to watch the speed and weight. I dont think I can ''just
add a 503' and get away with it. Can I? Anybody done that? Dont need the
speed or the cargo weight but would like the dependability of a 503 over a
447. Ted Cowan, Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "toddatlucile" <toddatlucile(at)alltel.net> |
----- Original Message -----
From: "check6" <check6(at)alltel.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2001 3:41 PM
Subject: Ailerons
> To: Dennis Souder, Re: Old Firestar vs. New Firestar Ailerons. Is there
> any difference in the flying charicturistics between the old long ailerons
> and the new shorter ones? Also was there any change in the rigging
geometry
> in the two models? I am contemplating cutting mine down to the new
> configuration. John Todd Lower Georgia.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)epix.net> |
Ben,
You are right about the angles: The angles are stock aluminum 90 degree
angles. But the angles are not attached to the front spar directly. They
are riveted to the main spar gusset and to the nose gusset on the opposite
side of the rib tubing. The top is positioned as far up as it can be
installed and the bottom is installed as close to the bottom of the wing as
possible.
In the later FireStar plans this reinforcement was shown as an addition if
the builder wanted a bit more strength. It started out with a recurring
type of accident: where a hard landing would bend a gear leg which would
allow the wing tip to strike the ground. The first part to bend was the
upper rib tube of the outboard rib right behind the main spar. The fix was
to replace the bent portion of the rib, which was easy - but the hard part
was getting to it!
We thought that by making the top rib a bit stronger, that such ground
strikes might not result in any damage. So the aluminum angle was riveted
along the top of the outboard rib, between the main spar gusset and the rear
spar gusset. Again it was installed on the opposite side of the gusset that
the rib tubing was riveted to. This made a big difference and lots of wing
tips were spared surgery. (Of course a real hard strike could still break
or bend something.)
If you need a drawing, I could send one to you.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ben Ransom
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2001 2:01 AM
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Older Firestar
> 1) Reinforce the "nose" portion (in front of main spar) of the wing
> rib with
> the aluminum angles that are typically shown on the end ribs. I
> would put a
> 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/16" angle on the upper side and a 1/2" x 1/2" x 1/16"
> angle
> on the bottom of the rib.
Dennis: I don't get what you are describing. By aluminum angles do
you mean 90 degree angle stock with one face riveted to the leading
edge tube and the other face riveted to the 5/16 x035 nose ends of the
ribs? BTW, although mine is a KXP (7 rib already), I'm just wanting to
understand what you are describing.
> These angles help strengthen and stiffen the
> leading edge by giving it more support than the 5/16" x 035 (or .028)
> rib
> tubing.
>
[clip]
> hitting ditches,etc. when landing. While I had the cage stripped, I
> would
> weld in some mid-tube braces (about 5/16 x 035) to the bottom
> longerons in
> the rear cage to the diagonals above. I would then run a horizontal
> brace
> between the same points on the lower longerons to one another. This
> needs
> to be place far enough forward to make sure it is below the fuselage
> tube.
> This would help reduce the damage to the lower logerons that
> sometimes
> happens in such accidents.
This is exactly one of the things I'm doing to my cage -- got the
pieces all cut and fitted, and will probably weld it this weekend.
Oddly though, my longeron (left side) wasn't bent from hitting a ditch
but instead from the plane landing upside down and sideways against a
shed -- and fortunately the gear leg was the initial point of contact
to the shed. Basically the impact put excessive forces on the landing
gear (and nearby structure) in the opposite direction of a ditch hit or
horrible 10' high stall landing. One of my options maybe coulda been
just to put get in, fly, and aim for a ditch. :)
-Ben
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WillUribe(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Older Firestar |
Here are some pictures of Dave installing the reinforcement aluminum angles
to the end ribs.
http://members.aol.com/willuribe/142.jpg
http://members.aol.com/willuribe/143.jpg
You may have to look a little harder to spot them.
Will
In a message dated 3/8/01 2:04:06 AM Eastern Standard Time, bwr000(at)yahoo.com
writes:
> > 1) Reinforce the "nose" portion (in front of main spar) of the wing
> > rib with
> > the aluminum angles that are typically shown on the end ribs. I
> > would put a
> > 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/16" angle on the upper side and a 1/2" x 1/2" x 1/16"
> > angle
> > on the bottom of the rib.
>
> Dennis: I don't get what you are describing. By aluminum angles do
> you mean 90 degree angle stock with one face riveted to the leading
> edge tube and the other face riveted to the 5/16 x035 nose ends of the
> ribs? BTW, although mine is a KXP (7 rib already), I'm just wanting to
> understand what you are describing.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MIKE HOUSEWERT <mhousewert(at)earthlink.net> |
Kolb Mark III - 2 person
582 Rotax Liquid Cooled w/ electric starter
BRS Chute (New 11/18/00)
89.9 total hours plane and engine
Full Instruments altimeter, airspeed, vertical airspeed, RPMs, CHT x 2,
EGT x 2, water temperature, water pressure, inclinometer, compass
Strobes
Warp 3 Blade Prop
12 V outlet
Electric fuel pump
Dual Throttles
4 point harness
2 5 gallons fuel tanks
Hydraulic Disc (heel) brakes
Full enclosure
Stits fabric cover - White with some blue and red
Always Hangered
Purchased end of July 2000, then trucked to The New Kolb Co. who trucked it
to their authorized airplane builder, Lite Speed Aviation in Stranton,
Kentucky. Lite Speed went through the plane top to bottom, nose to tail,
and brought everything into original specifications, including installation
of a new BRS parachute.
Paid $21,075.00, which includes the initial cost plus all the inspections,
minor repairs, new BRS parachute, and test flying by The New Kolb Companys
authorized airplane builder Lite Speed Aviation.
Asking $18,500.00
Mike Housewert
815-332-3136
815-519-3332 (Cellular Phone)
815-296-6003 (Pager)
For photos go to this web sight: http://www.volkswagenhomebrew.com/Kolb.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)epix.net> |
Hi John,
Sorta difficult to expain all the differences ... yes the geometry of the
linkages are different. It probably would not hurt to cut them down a bit;
in general all Kolb ailerons tend to be bit larger than they need to be for
most applications, but this is to help ensure good control even a very low
airspeeds. In general the lighter your plane and its payload, the better to
leave them alone - the heavier planes and payload would tend to benefit from
smaller ailerons.
If it were my airplane, I probably would leave them unchanged, the early FS
were really nice flying aircraft and you might upsent things by reducing the
area.
Hope this helps,
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of toddatlucile
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2001 10:46 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Fw: Ailerons
----- Original Message -----
From: "check6" <check6(at)alltel.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2001 3:41 PM
Subject: Ailerons
> To: Dennis Souder, Re: Old Firestar vs. New Firestar Ailerons. Is there
> any difference in the flying charicturistics between the old long ailerons
> and the new shorter ones? Also was there any change in the rigging
geometry
> in the two models? I am contemplating cutting mine down to the new
> configuration. John Todd Lower Georgia.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WillUribe(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | 10 hours of flight test time for airworthiness certification |
I was just reading about the FAA lowering the required flight test time for
ultralight-type amateur-built aircraft to 10 hours.
"Amateu-built gliders, balloons, dirigibles, and ultralight vehicles found
eligible to meet the requirements of 21.191(g), for which original
airworthiness certification is sought, should be limited to operation within
an assigned flight test area for at least 10 hours of operation, including at
least five takeoffs and landings."
http://www.faa.gov/avr/air/air200/81302Chg2.pdf
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: KOLB FIREFLY |
We've told him about the capitals in the past, several times. SEEMS LIKE
HE JUST HAS BAD MANNERS ! ! ! Big Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2001 10:02 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: KOLB FIREFLY
>
> We got it all here Jimmy, Fireflys, old and new Firestars, quite a few
> Slingshots,Mark 2 & 3s, Ultrastars, maybe even a couple old Flyers, and
some
> original Twinstars.
> If ya got a question, ask away, somebody will have the answer.
> But you might want to stop capitalizng your print, to the experienced web
> surfers the capitals indicate you are shouting, it really ruffles
feathers.
> Welcome aboard,
> Denny Rowe
> Building Mk-3 2si 690L-70 Western PA
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: JIMMY HANKINSON <jhankin(at)planters.net>
> To: KOLB LIST
> Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2001 10:30 AM
> Subject: Kolb-List: KOLB FIREFLY
>
>
> >
> > I HAVE JUST PURCHASED A KOLB FIREFLY AND SOON BEGINNING LESSONS.
> > IN READING THE KOLB LIST, DOES EVERYONE JUST HAVE MKIII AND FIRESTAR?
> > I HAVE NOT SEEN ANYTHING ON FIREFLYS.
> >
> > JIMMY
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Beauford Tuton" <beauford(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: KOLB FIREFLY |
Hi there, Jimmy...
Calm down a tad and shift to lower case, Son...
I have a FireFly... or it has me, I'm not sure which....
I don't have but 18 hours on mine... which ain't much... there are a lot of
FF drivers on this list with
quite a bit more time in them than me... Mebbe some of them will come on
line and share some of their wisdom with you... but in the meantime, true
to form, I don't mind gassin' a bit about my limited observations ref mine.
Seems honest enough... Mild and straightforward little machine near as I can
tell... You mentioned taking lessons... Not sure where you stand for
experience, but if you have not put in any time much in tailwheel airplanes
and are already a pilot, I would go out and invest in at least 6 or 8 hours
dual in a Champ or Cub someplace. If you are not a pilot, go and take at
least 15 or so hours of basic dual instruction, preferably in a tailwheel
machine with a gnarly old instructor who yells occasionally, stops to go to
the latrine a lot, and mutters to himself under his breath...which ought to
smell real bad, by the way....
My particular Fly doesn't seem to have any unnaturally bad vices... stalls
straight ahead... after plenty of signals... spins acceptably... no tendency
to wind up tight or resist conventional recovery... works OK in fairly stiff
crosswinds if'n you get a tad assertive with it... climbs like a bat...
then doesn't go anywhere much once it gets up there... Runs for about the
same money as a medium sized riding lawn mower. Has about a one hour and 45
minute endurance. Nothing big has come off'n mine yet, so I assume this
design, like all the other Kolbs is sound. In short, I find it as
advertised. I would bear in mind, however, that this is an airplane.
Simple and slow as it may be, it ain't a toy and it is fully capable of
killing a person without the basic knowledge of how basic airplanes
operate...the laws of physics do not differentiate between sexy high
performance airplanes and slow rag and tube airplanes...any one of them can
humble a man on any given day... The lessons you mentioned are important....
don't rush them... savor them.
Enjoy your Fly.... I predict you will like it a lot.
Beauford, the Aluminum Butcher of Brandon
FF #076
P.S. My opinions are worth what you paid for them
----- Original Message -----
From: "JIMMY HANKINSON" <jhankin(at)planters.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2001 10:30 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: KOLB FIREFLY
>
> I HAVE JUST PURCHASED A KOLB FIREFLY AND SOON BEGINNING LESSONS.
> IN READING THE KOLB LIST, DOES EVERYONE JUST HAVE MKIII AND FIRESTAR?
> I HAVE NOT SEEN ANYTHING ON FIREFLYS.
>
> JIMMY
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SGreenpg(at)aol.com |
Lar,
Call your local FSDO, The one in TN sent me a package with all the forms for
registration. New Kolb also sells a booklet on how to register your plane
and it includes all the FAA forms.
Steven Green
N58SG
MK III 18 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
Hey list,
I'm flying an "88 model Mk2 with disc brakes (mechanically operated with a
bicycle type handle on the stick...not differential.) I have worn into the
aluminum discs by allowing the inside pads to deteriorate to the rivits.
Does anybody know where I might find new discs and pads for this arrangement?
I know that they have worn like this because I was never able to adjust them
properly. If anybody has any tips for adjustment for this type of brakes, I
would be interested to hear them. Hydralic actuated Matco types would be a
nice option but that 600 bucks they want for that setup will buy a lot of
gas. I'd go without the brakes altogether but...every now and then they're
nice to have if for no other reason than the runup.
Thanks
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Arlyn G. Moen" <amoen(at)ndak.net> |
| Subject: | Re: antique or oldies but goodies |
I have an Ultrastar. It flies great. I weigh 210 lbs. it has a pod and full
windshield ULII Cuyuna engine and nova gear reduction. It is a wounderfull
little machine. Don't worry about enough power,mine litterly jumps off the
ground. I fly alongside of a firestar II with a 503 rotax he is always
suprised at the Ultrastars cruise speed and climb. We fly together alot and
our speeds are compatibal.
The things i don't like about the ultrastar(if i really had to get picky)
are the minimal ground clerance of the prop(gets niked up from gravel ) and
no give to the landing gear although i havent had any problems with the gear
at all. I run the cuyuna at 5900 rpm cruise.. I got my ultrastar from a
friend for $2999.00 !!!
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Swiderski <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 4:08 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: antique or oldies but goodies
>
> Ed,
>
> I watched a 290lb. guy fly his UltraStar at Sun& Fun & he was
> outclimbing many of the planes there. With my old UltraStar which had a
full
> windshield & front nose cone, I weighed 175 & had a 9 gal seat tank plus a
> Side Winder ballistic chute (about 20lbs) mounted to the right of the
seat.
> I never encountered a CG problem (I hung it from a tree in my yard & she
did
> fine.)
> While you are restoring, there are a few mods you might want to
> consider. Give me a call, 352-622-4064, & I'll share some opinions if
you'd
> like
> You'll love your ship! Its probably the funnest to fly Kolb ever
made.
> ...Richard Swiderski
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Edward Steuber" <esteuber(at)rochester.rr.com>
> To: "Kolb-List Digest List"
> Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 7:53 AM
> Subject: Kolb-List: antique or oldies but goodies
>
>
>
> >
> > I am restoring an Ultrastar that I acquired with a Culver 50 X 36 prop
> > on a ULII 02 Cayuna with a 2.04 gear reduction.What can I expect as far
> > as takeoff ( 200# pilot and 5 gallons gas ) and cruise speed at 5300rpm
> > ? It may be a little overweight with an enclosure and I am also
> > concerned with CG. Can anyone tell me what the CG range range is ? I
> > have been in the archives but it is not specific enough. ...Looking
> > forward to flying this in the spring, probably in May. Spring comes late
> > in western NY. Summer is a 2 day event and falls on a weekend this
> > year.Cockpit enclosures are mandatory for at least 8 months. By the way,
> > responses to the questions may assume colder than standard
> > day......Thanks , Ed Steuber, Albion , NY modified Ultrastar
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> |
Thanks all.............this should do it. Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ray L Baker" <rbaker2(at)juno.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2001 6:42 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Forms
>
> Larry,
> AC 20-27D, Appendix 2 = Sample letter for Requesting an Aircraft
> Registration number in accordance with FAR Section47.15>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | rivets - steel or stainless |
| From: | Scott and Pam Trask <PTrask(at)diisd.org> |
I understand the New kolb Co. has stainless steel rivets in their kits. I
just finished replacing my elevator hinges and the steel rivets looked great
no sign of corrosion. I also removed the cloth on the elevator no trouble
there. I did add a gusset to the in board tube the rivets where getting
loose.
12 years ago when I started my kit I questioned old Kolb about the rivets
being steel as they were. I asked Dennis S. why not stainless rivets , he
was telling me that the stainless would more often pre pop making the part
loose(right Dennis?).
I flew with a float for awhile. When I landed I always ended up sticking
the tail right into the water.
I also painted all my rivets which most of the paint gets scraped off when
inserting it into the hole.
Scott Trask
Iron Mountain MI.
MK111
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Richmond <twoschmoops(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Virgin fuel system |
Bob and Flo Limpert ,
Lindy Lower Alabama , Denny Rowe ,
Richard Swiderski ,
Geoff Thistlethwaite ,
John Hauck
OK guys,
Got new tanks here with the SS pickup rods and dinky looking in-line
filters from TNK.
In a standard MkIII, what's your best system for hookup? Looked at the
plans but I KNOW you have some other special ideas. I'm getting a gas
colator, new squeeze bulb, new line too of course.
Why does one can have the small cap over the vent hole?
Please give me your ideas for the best delivery system. THANKS
=====
John & Lynn Richmond :-)
Palm Coast, Fl.
Mk3, 582
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Peer <quick503(at)yahoo.com> |
Does anyone know the aileron travel specs for a MK
III? Using a Warp Drive protractor I come up with
about 35 degrees up and 35 degrees down. (seems like a
lot) Also does the MK III have noticeable adverse yaw?
Has anyone tried differential ailerons?
Thanks, Mike
=====
This Information could save you both time and money!
Please visit my website at http://www.jemcomputersolutions.com
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: KOLB FIREFLY |
Beauford,
Your opinions might not be worth much, but your comments are Priceless!
Denny
----- Original Message -----
From: Beauford Tuton <beauford(at)tampabay.rr.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2001 8:50 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: KOLB FIREFLY
>
> Hi there, Jimmy...
> Calm down a tad and shift to lower case, Son...
> I have a FireFly... or it has me, I'm not sure which....
> I don't have but 18 hours on mine... which ain't much... there are a lot
of
> FF drivers on this list with
> quite a bit more time in them than me... Mebbe some of them will come on
> line and share some of their wisdom with you... but in the meantime, true
> to form, I don't mind gassin' a bit about my limited observations ref
mine.
> Seems honest enough... Mild and straightforward little machine near as I
can
> tell... You mentioned taking lessons... Not sure where you stand for
> experience, but if you have not put in any time much in tailwheel
airplanes
> and are already a pilot, I would go out and invest in at least 6 or 8
hours
> dual in a Champ or Cub someplace. If you are not a pilot, go and take at
> least 15 or so hours of basic dual instruction, preferably in a tailwheel
> machine with a gnarly old instructor who yells occasionally, stops to go
to
> the latrine a lot, and mutters to himself under his breath...which ought
to
> smell real bad, by the way....
> My particular Fly doesn't seem to have any unnaturally bad vices... stalls
> straight ahead... after plenty of signals... spins acceptably... no
tendency
> to wind up tight or resist conventional recovery... works OK in fairly
stiff
> crosswinds if'n you get a tad assertive with it... climbs like a bat...
> then doesn't go anywhere much once it gets up there... Runs for about the
> same money as a medium sized riding lawn mower. Has about a one hour and
45
> minute endurance. Nothing big has come off'n mine yet, so I assume this
> design, like all the other Kolbs is sound. In short, I find it as
> advertised. I would bear in mind, however, that this is an airplane.
> Simple and slow as it may be, it ain't a toy and it is fully capable of
> killing a person without the basic knowledge of how basic airplanes
> operate...the laws of physics do not differentiate between sexy high
> performance airplanes and slow rag and tube airplanes...any one of them
can
> humble a man on any given day... The lessons you mentioned are
important....
> don't rush them... savor them.
> Enjoy your Fly.... I predict you will like it a lot.
> Beauford, the Aluminum Butcher of Brandon
> FF #076
> P.S. My opinions are worth what you paid for them
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "JIMMY HANKINSON" <jhankin(at)planters.net>
> To: "KOLB LIST"
> Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2001 10:30 AM
> Subject: Kolb-List: KOLB FIREFLY
>
>
> >
> > I HAVE JUST PURCHASED A KOLB FIREFLY AND SOON BEGINNING LESSONS.
> > IN READING THE KOLB LIST, DOES EVERYONE JUST HAVE MKIII AND FIRESTAR?
> > I HAVE NOT SEEN ANYTHING ON FIREFLYS.
> >
> > JIMMY
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | MK III Repairs Update |
Morning Gang:
Having difficulty getting these old fingers to cooperate
this morning. Kinda stiff and sore.
I also noted the size of Dave and Will's shop. Looked like
a WWII hanger. I always dreamed of being able to work in an
area large enough to assemble the entire airplane inside. I
work in a shoe box, but have built and rebuilt three Kolb
airplanes in it.
Because of space, I must paint parts I need for the fuselage
outside under a tent fly. I am working on landing gear, so
can not move the fuselage out of the shop. I am dictated to
constantly by the weather: temperature, rain, wind, dust,
and bugs. Takes much longer to get a task done this way,
but we can do it.
My main landing gear mounts are different from the stock MK
III. There is a triangular shaped area that gets covered
with fabric on each one. Yesterday, I got each covered with
one brush coat of Poly Brush. This morning will get the
trim tape on them and start the process of spray coats of
Poly Brush, Poly Spray, White Poly Tone, and finally Cub
Yellow Aerothane. This is an example of how time intensive
this repair project has gotten. I had expected to get the
fuselage out of the shop this week so I could bring the
wings home to begin work on them. Never happen. To finish
up the gear leg mounts so I can move the fuselage will take
about three or four more days. Would be nice to be able to
pile all those coatings on in one day, but it doesn't work
that way. There must be sufficient time to allow the
solvents to wick out/evaporate from the coatings before
another coat is piled on, expecially before the Aerothane is
applied. So, even though I am only shooting a couple square
feet of fabric, it will take me as long to finish the gear
mounts as it would a wing. :-)
I bought one of the small sealing irons from Jim and Dondi
Miller. Then I found my old one. Used the new one
yesterday for the first time. Am tickled to death with it.
It is an entirely new iron compared to my old dinasour I
used in the 80's. I knew it was unique when I calibrated
it. Really required no calibration, just a temp check. It
does what the temp indicator tells it to do. I believe it
has a digital thermostat that reacts quickly and hold temps
close to what is indicated. I had it smoking yesterday when
doing the final heat shrink on these small pieces. The shoe
is thin and gets into places the old iron would not.
Indicator LED lets you know when it is at temp or heating.
Also has Silverstone-like nonstick coating. It is worth
every penny I paid for it. Although I hesitated before I
paid the price, I am glad I went ahead and got it. Good
tools make the job quicker, easier, and end product look
better.
I am also extremely happy with the Citation HVLP turbine
spray system that I bought from the Millers. It is not the
same as the old Binks or DeVilbiss guns and standard air
compressors. I am still in the learning process,
transitioning from old system to new, but learning fast.
Glad I had these little parts to start and learn on rather
than a big ole wing. The fresh air system is a blessing and
worth every penny. The HVLP does not seem to use as much
paint, although I am finding that I need to lay the coatings
on heavier than normal in order to get them to flow out. I
may not be using enough reducer also. Plus I have been
trying to paint outside and it has been rather windy. :-)
This morning it is raining, but I can work inside.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "T Miller" <safeharbor(at)kih.net> |
| Subject: | Re: KOLB FIREFLY |
Beauford,
You should be a writ'in for Kitplanes Magazine.
I enjoyed your words of wisdom, as well as your style.
Tom
in Kentucky
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ronoy <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: rivets - steel or stainless |
Rivet question was discussed in latest Experimenter. TNK says it's OK.
bn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JIMMY HANKINSON <jhankin(at)planters.net> |
Hello everyone,
Was not aware that typing in caps offended anyone. Will refrain in the
future.
Have had some experience in larger aircraft, flown RC modelers for 25
years.
Introduced to the world of ultralight this morning, did preflight and
starting.
Taxied in a grass field for about a hour. We have access to a different
brand of ultralight_______, that is a two seater, will have training in
this until we decide I am ready to solo. Person I bought the Kolb from
will be doing the training. He just purchased a tail dragger this week
also, full size aircraft. We have a club that has access to an x'ed out
runway and have permission to use as a takeoff, landing and training
site.
Jimmy
Firefly #35
447 Rotax
Southeast Georgia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mike(at)napanet.net |
| Subject: | firestar I wingloading |
Being interested in buying an older Firestar I've found that:
The specsheet for the Firestar One shows empty weight at 275 pounds and
gross weight at 550 pounds. I've heard that the listed gross is VERY
conservative and that actually the airplane flies fine at weights exceeding
the listed gross.
If I've done this right, a Firestar I loaded to fly at 583 pounds (over
listed gross) has a wingloading of 3.94 pounds/sq.ft.
By comparison, a new Rans S-17 Stinger, loaded to fly at 500 pounds (under
listed gross) has a wingloading of 3.94 pounds/sq.ft.
Should a guy be flying a Firestar I at weights over the listed gross?
http://www.slowflight.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terminaltown(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Terminal Town is For Sale |
kolb-list(at)matronics.com
We are in Seattle, Wa. and I just finished putting in order more than 100,000
terminals and other inventory items that launched off their shelves and
formed up into a pile during our quake last week when most of our system fell
over due to a 6.8 earth shaking. It was truly scary and awesome all at the
same moment.
As it says above, Terminal Town is for sale. The site and inventory. It's a
good, small easy to run business that you can run out of a garage size
building. The price is between $10 and $15K depending on the final value of
the present inventory.
Why is it for sale? My wife and I started this business together about 8
years ago and have enjoyed growing it. But our interests have changed.
If you are interested in having an up and running fun
E business that meets a market need. Contact me at
206-242-2527 or E mail me at terminaltown(at)aol.com!
In the mean time I have shut the shopping cart off to stop any further orders
from coming in so I can get a handle on the inventory.
Best regards,
John @ Terminal Town's Home Page!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Richmond <twoschmoops(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fwd: Re: my virgin gas tanks |
Thanks for the help Denny.
FYI enyone else with gas tank plumbing questions.
--- Denny Rowe wrote:
> From: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net>
> To: "John Richmond"
> Subject: Re: my virgin gas tanks
> Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2001 09:53:53 -0500
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: John Richmond <twoschmoops(at)yahoo.com>
> To: Denny Rowe ; Richard Pike
>
> Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2001 9:03 AM
> Subject: my virgin gas tanks
>
>
> > Hey guys,
> >
> > Did you see my new gas tank pictures??? I got new ones from TNK,
> with
> > the SS pickups for top feeding. Whats the best method for the gas
> > delivery system from there?
>
> John, Sorry I took so long to reply.
> Here is my thoughts on your system, followed by more comments below.
> Insert your pickups near the top rear of your tanks as you planned,
> turn the
> L pickup fittings toward each other and insert a BRASS- Tee on top
> and
> between the tanks with the outlet facing down. (Throw the supplied
> plastic
> Tee away!!) The gasculater should be next in line and near the
> belly of
> the plane so the fuel sump exits the underside of the fuselage. You
> can
> extend the sump drain on your gasculator with 1/8" pipe fittings to
> reach
> the belly. A fuel shutoff valve should be either before or after the
> gasculater, followed by the primer bulb than the fuel filter before
> the
> impulse pump. I don't know why they sent you two filters. You may
> want to
> consider a Facet electric fuel pump instead of the primer bulb. Its
> function
> would be the same as the bulb, but you would have the added feature
> of using
> it for take offs and landings. If you decide to go with the
> electric pump,
> put it in series either just before or just after the gasculater.
> >
> > Let me speak on what I was thinking of, and correct me where
> > improvements should be.
> >
> > 1) I guess I'll cut the holes in the top of the tanks, toward the
> back,
> > put the grommet in and the SS posts thru to the bottom. Is that
> enough
> > rigidity for the posts to stay put, or do they swing around in the
> tank
> > during flight? I'll guess again, that with the fuel tubing on them
> > they can be held kinda firm, yes??
>
> John,
> I would think that the factory tubes would work fine.
> >
> > 2) I'll take the lines from the SS posts right to the kolb white
> > plastic fuel filters, then T together, then up a front post to the
> > underside of the "deck" area above the tanks.
> >
> John,
> Throw the plasic T away, but first go to an auto parts store and
> match it up
> with a brass one.
> You may be able to mount the gasculator up high like this, as long as
> the
> drain is outside the cockpit, they always say the gasculator has to
> be the
> lowest point in the system, but I don't know how this applies to top
> tapped
> tanks such as this. My taps are the old bottom drilled ones so my
> sump is
> under the tanks?
>
> > 3) I'd like to put in a gas colator in the vertical part of the
> line
> > before getting up to the deck.
> >
> > 4) after turning toward the back of the deck, lay in the primer
> bulb
> > (so it can still be reached from the seats) continue on back, then
> turn
> > up the rear and into the engine.
>
> John,
> The fuel filter should always come after the primer bulb, bulbs
> sometimes
> lose little pieces of rubber that will shut your engine down at the
> worst
> times, ( they block the main jet in the carb).
> This happened in my Loehle a couple years ago, now I have a secound
> smaller
> fuel filter installed just befor my carb.
> Send this post with my comments to the Kolb list for everyones
> opinion, I
> may have overlooked somthing, and the gasculator location needs more
> thought
> put into it, the guys like John H who have the top taps like you are
> installing will be your best source. BUT THROW THAT PLASTIC TEE
> AWAY!
>
> Denny Rowe
> PS: I REPEAT THROW THE PLASTIC TEE AWAY> :-)
> >
> > Any better thoughts on your end? Will be glad to have 'em
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> >
> >
> > =====
> > John & Lynn Richmond :-)
> > Palm Coast, Fl.
> > Mk3, 582
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices.
> > http://auctions.yahoo.com/
>
>
=====
John & Lynn Richmond :-)
Palm Coast, Fl.
Mk3, 582
Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices.
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Kearbey" <kearbey(at)jps.net> |
| Subject: | Re: typing in caps |
I can't believe someone would complain about that!!
----- Original Message -----
From: "JIMMY HANKINSON" <jhankin(at)planters.net>
Sent: Friday, March 09, 2001 1:01 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: typing in caps
>
> Hello everyone,
> Was not aware that typing in caps offended anyone. Will refrain in the
> future.
>
> Have had some experience in larger aircraft, flown RC modelers for 25
> years.
> Introduced to the world of ultralight this morning, did preflight and
> starting.
>
> Taxied in a grass field for about a hour. We have access to a different
> brand of ultralight_______, that is a two seater, will have training in
> this until we decide I am ready to solo. Person I bought the Kolb from
> will be doing the training. He just purchased a tail dragger this week
> also, full size aircraft. We have a club that has access to an x'ed out
> runway and have permission to use as a takeoff, landing and training
> site.
>
> Jimmy
> Firefly #35
> 447 Rotax
> Southeast Georgia
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KHe1144783(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: typing in caps |
In a message dated 3/10/01 9:49:33 AM Pacific Standard Time, kearbey(at)jps.net
writes:
<<
I can't believe someone would complain about that!!
>>
Caps have always been reserved for SHOUTING !!!!----in type. SHOUTING is not
nice.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
Bob,
Start out with neutral (slack) and then just add 1/3 turn of pitch. My 3
blade 63" IVO on a 503 worked best near neutral.
John Jung
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> |
Good on you ! ! ! That's a major milestone, and one that's got me stalled.
Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ray L Baker" <rbaker2(at)juno.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2001 3:54 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Progress!
>
> Listers,
>
> I have to tell someone! I FINISHED PAINTING TODAY! Believe me it is
> something to shout about. I managed to get finished before the hot
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> |
I should have added, send 'em to me if you want, and I'll post them.
Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2001 5:41 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Progress!
>
> Good on you ! ! ! That's a major milestone, and one that's got me
stalled.
> Lar.
>
> Larry Bourne
> Palm Springs, Ca.
> Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
> http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ray L Baker" <rbaker2(at)juno.com>
> To:
> Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2001 3:54 PM
> Subject: Kolb-List: Progress!
>
>
> >
> > Listers,
> >
> > I have to tell someone! I FINISHED PAINTING TODAY! Believe me it is
> > something to shout about. I managed to get finished before the hot
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JIMMY HANKINSON <jhankin(at)planters.net> |
| Subject: | Re: typing in caps |
How about the caps in your e-mail address!!!!!!! KHe1144783(at)AOL.COM
JIMMY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JIMMY HANKINSON <jhankin(at)planters.net> |
| Subject: | Re: typing in caps |
Att. Robert Kearbey- guess who complained about my capitol letters, his
e-mail address begins with two capitol letters!!!!!!! KHe1144783
I THINK IT IS A BUNCH OF BULL.
IF NO ONE WANTS NOT TO TALK TO ME BECAUSE OF MY STYLE OF WRITTING, I GOT
ALONG FINE BEFORE I SIGNED ON TO THIS MAIL LIST.
JUST FOR ANYONE'S INFORMATION I AM A DIABETIC WHO HAS LOST BOTH OF MY EYES
FOR SIX MONTHS AND HAVE HAD LAZER SURGERY ON BOTH AND HAVE TROUBLE SEEING
TO TYPE.
THANKS FOR YOUR SUPPORT
JIMMY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: typing in caps |
Whooh there Jimbo,
Lets take a deep breath and let it out slowly, nobody is trying to offend
anyone here. Folks were just explaining good typing etiquette, constuctive
criticism is a most helpful thing, if a person accepts it in the spirit that
it is meant.
Relax and enjoy the fellowship of our fellow listers, the info exchanged
here will go a long way in making us all better, safer, builders and pilots.
Sincerly,
Denny
PS: glad to hear good news about your eye surgery.
----- Original Message -----
From: JIMMY HANKINSON <jhankin(at)planters.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2001 10:03 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: typing in caps
>
> Att. Robert Kearbey- guess who complained about my capitol letters, his
> e-mail address begins with two capitol letters!!!!!!! KHe1144783
>
> I THINK IT IS A BUNCH OF BULL.
>
> IF NO ONE WANTS NOT TO TALK TO ME BECAUSE OF MY STYLE OF WRITTING, I GOT
> ALONG FINE BEFORE I SIGNED ON TO THIS MAIL LIST.
>
> JUST FOR ANYONE'S INFORMATION I AM A DIABETIC WHO HAS LOST BOTH OF MY EYES
> FOR SIX MONTHS AND HAVE HAD LAZER SURGERY ON BOTH AND HAVE TROUBLE SEEING
> TO TYPE.
>
> THANKS FOR YOUR SUPPORT
> JIMMY
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ksbroste(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Firestar Rudder horn |
The rudder horn that came in my kit has two tabs that point forward. The
rudder horn shown in the blueprints (page 12) show no such tabs. Problem is
these tabs prevent full movement of the rudder by hitting the center post of
the vertical stabilizer. I don't see the need for the two tabs on the horn.
Holes for threading the control cables are on the ends of the main part of
the horn. Anyone else experienced this situation? Thanks for your input.
Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | Firestar Rudder horn |
Ken,
Sounds like they are the "rudder stops" and yes they are designed to limit
deflection. Check for deflection with the horizontal stabilizers and
elevators attached. The stops should just prevent the rudder from hitting
the elevators. They can be trimmed off if too long, or they can be extended
with riveting an extension to the two 1/8" in holes.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Ksbroste(at)aol.com
Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2001 10:37 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Firestar Rudder horn
The rudder horn that came in my kit has two tabs that point forward. The
rudder horn shown in the blueprints (page 12) show no such tabs. Problem is
these tabs prevent full movement of the rudder by hitting the center post of
the vertical stabilizer. I don't see the need for the two tabs on the horn.
Holes for threading the control cables are on the ends of the main part of
the horn. Anyone else experienced this situation? Thanks for your input.
Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net> |
Ray,
Congratulations! If your painting is anything like the rest of your
work, I know you should be proud. Now if you could just get that bird
flying tomarrow. ...Richard Swiderski
> > Listers,
> >
> > I have to tell someone! I FINISHED PAINTING TODAY! Believe me it is
> > something to shout about. I managed to get finished before the hot
> > weather and bugs took over. Most of the painting was done with the
> > temperature in the 60's. I used the 8500 reducer and even added a
little
> > retarder. Thanks to patient guidance my Jim and Dondi Miller I achieved
> > an accptable result using Poly-Tone.
>
> > L. Ray Baker
> > Lake Butler, Fl
> > Building Mark III, SN M1156--N629RB
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Older Firestar |
In a message dated 03/08/2001 5:13:08 PM Eastern Standard Time,
flykolb(at)epix.net writes:
> The angles are stock aluminum 90 degree
> angles. But the angles are not attached to the front spar directly. They
> are riveted to the main spar gusset and to the nose gusset on the opposite
> side of the rib tubing. The top is positioned as far up as it can be
> installed and the bottom is installed as close to the bottom of the wing as
> possible.
>
> In the later FireStar plans this reinforcement was shown as an addition if
>
Dennis Souder
I understand what you are explaning, as I had installed those angles while
building the wing. But one more question please. On the discussion about
modifying the wing for the 503 installation, do you mean to just add the
angle to the outboard wing rib, or to all 5 ribs?
Bill Varnes
Original FireStar-Rotax 377
Audubon, NJ USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Julian Warren <jgw300(at)webolium.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firestar Rudder horn |
The picture in the Mark III Xtra manual on page 10 shows the horn
installed with tabs pointing towards the trailing edge of rudder. There
doesn't seem to be any functional reason for them. Just another error
to contact support about. It seems that the manual and the plan don't
recognize the part number either. The manual calls it H00-109-000 and
the blue prints call it H00-109-001.
I am just starting my rudder also... I will give them a call Monday and
put the answer on the List.
Julian Warren
Eugene, Oregon
Ksbroste(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> The rudder horn that came in my kit has two tabs that point forward. The
> rudder horn shown in the blueprints (page 12) show no such tabs. Problem is
> these tabs prevent full movement of the rudder by hitting the center post of
> the vertical stabilizer. I don't see the need for the two tabs on the horn.
> Holes for threading the control cables are on the ends of the main part of
> the horn. Anyone else experienced this situation? Thanks for your input.
> Ken
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TCowan1917(at)aol.com |
Attention Ray Baker and the rest that may care: If you want to post your
pics on the web it is real easy. Go to www.photopoint.com and get an account
(free). You post your pics via email to your own album and can visit others
albums using their email address. It is as easy as posting and email with an
attachment. If you want to sample it, go to www.photopoint.com and in the
visit albums section put: tcowan1917(at)aol.com and visit my pics. Like I
said, it is free and you dont need to be a rocket scientist. Someone on the
Kolb list told me about it about six months ago. Enjoy. Ted Cowan. If
someone can redo this messsage and put a blue point and click to the web
site, it would really be easy. p.s. you can surf the albums also.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Currie <bnb(at)erols.com> |
Big thanks to John and Jack. I would have dialed in alot more. It will
be another 2 months before the engine goes on as a trip to SnF will
delay construction and will also need to get boat going. I will post the
results.
FYI for bebuilders - Decided to recover rudder as "Homer bumps" made it
almost impossible to get tapes on straight. Cut off ribs flush with
trailing edge and made composit gussets to hold in place. Light weight
and seem to be very strong. No more bumps. If, and when I recover
other parts will possible do the same. Bob Currie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
adding "fttp://"
TCowan1917(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Attention Ray Baker and the rest that may care: If you want to post your
> pics on the web it is real easy. Go to fttp://www.photopoint.com and get an
> account
> (free). You post your pics via email to your own album and can visit others
> albums using their email address. It is as easy as posting and email with an
> attachment. If you want to sample it, go to fttp://www.photopoint.com and in
> the
> visit albums section put: tcowan1917(at)aol.com and visit my pics. Like I
> said, it is free and you dont need to be a rocket scientist. Someone on the
> Kolb list told me about it about six months ago. Enjoy. Ted Cowan. If
> someone can redo this messsage and put a blue point and click to the web
> site, it would really be easy. p.s. you can surf the albums also.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KHe1144783(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: typing in caps |
In a message dated 3/10/01 6:48:07 PM Pacific Standard Time,
jhankin(at)planters.net writes:
<<
How about the caps in your e-mail address!!!!!!! KHe1144783(at)AOL.COM
>>
Thats how aol told me to write it. Not my idea.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Beauford Tuton" <beauford(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: KOLB FIREFLY |
Tom:
Your kind words are appreciated,Sir... however I am certain I would
soon starve were I to have to depend on my writing to put any
groceries on the table...
I am originally from just East Of Louisville... where are you located?
Regards,
Beauford
----- Original Message -----
From: "T Miller" <safeharbor(at)kih.net>
Sent: Friday, March 09, 2001 12:47 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: KOLB FIREFLY
>
> Beauford,
>
> You should be a writ'in for Kitplanes Magazine.
> I enjoyed your words of wisdom, as well as your style.
>
> Tom
> in Kentucky
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WillUribe(at)aol.com |
Ted,
Here is how you can put a clickable blue point on your e-mail but it only
works on AOL users, others like Outlook automatically make the URL clickable.
When you open a webpage click on the hart located on the upper right hand
conner of the window then click on "Add to favorite".
After your done writing an e-mail high lite the word you want to make
clickable then open "My Favorites" folder on the top menu icons and drag the
link you want clickable to the e-mail. AOL will automatically make it
clickable after you send the e-mail
Here is an example of your pictures
pic 1
pic 2
pic 3
pic 4
pic 5
Hope this helps,
Will
In a message dated 3/11/01 7:49:14 AM Eastern Standard Time,
TCowan1917(at)aol.com writes:
> If someone can redo this messsage and put a blue point and click to the web
> site, it would really be easy. p.s. you can surf the albums also.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "HD Mitchell" <mitchmnd(at)msn.com> |
Jimmy et al,
I now have 92.3 Hrs on my FireFly and have enjoyed every minute of it. The only
thing I can add to B. Tuten's response is that if you are a lightweight like
me (155 Lbs, 5' 7") the plane has very little inertia and will loose it's forward
speed very quickly when you reduce the throttle setting. This loss of speed
is aggravated by the reletively high drag and you
can enter a stall before can react. I bent my first set of gear during initial
testing when I kept trying to do a stall landings. It is always safer to keep
some power on untill touchdown. I have now learned to do thse
stall landings but this skill takes practice and requires maintenance. I
still practice both power on and flair landings whenever I get a chance.
As to building the plane I would keep her as-designed with the following
modifications:
1/ Save every ounce of weight you can. Weight is the enemy of performance. Go easy
on the paint accessories etc. You will need every ounce you save to allow
you to do items 2 and 3.
2/ Get some decent wheels. Those little ones provided with my kit were OK on the
asphault but were bad on mildly rough terrain or deep grass.
3/ Put some brakes on it. With my engine idling and no brakes I had to do a Hopalong
Casidy every time I got on board.
4/ Two-blade Ivo props are about the lightest and they do deliver the thrust.
Do every step in the building process like it has to last for 1,000 hours. Vibration,
hard landings, taxying, trailering etc all impose more stress on your little
bird than you plan for.
Happy Landings,
Duane the Plane in Tallahassee, FL, FireFly SN 007, 447, Ivo
http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Beauford Tuton" <beauford(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
Kolbers and Kolbettes:
Yesterday I had the good fortune to be present when one of the trike
drivers who operates close by my tiedown was pulling his prop mounting
bolts for their normal 100 hour swapout.
He came over with a handfull of really scary looking bolts. Of the set,
one had crystallized and about three quarters of an inch of the tip had
broken off in the hub. Two others had lengthened
and narrowed in the threaded area of the bolt to the extent that they
appeared slightly hourglass shaped and the pitch of the threads was
significantly distorted... The overall length of these two bolts had
stretched roughly an 8th of an inch... The other bolts looked normal. He
said
that with the exception of the broken one, which almost fell out when
unsaftied,
they all unscrewed normally; i.e.none were seized or difficult.
One's first inclination would be to suspect over-torqueing, or some other
unusual abusive causal factor, but in this case I doubt it. This man is no
flake.
He is an experienced, methodical German guy... Has had several trikes and
tons of
2 stroke hours. He is a perfectionist... a stickler for detail. He has had
this particular trike with
the same 503 and IVO setup on it for 600 hours. It is immaculate; you
literally
cannot find a blemish on it. As for the torque, this guy wouldn't go to the
bathroom
without a torque wrench... He swears he did it by the book to the same
values
he used for the previous 5 sets of bolts.... and by the way, he still has
the last
two sets he removed, each in a separate, labeled container annotated with
when he
removed them... they are normal in appearance. He is understandably upset
and is
documenting this incident with photography and a series of letters to Rotax,
IVO, USUA,
etc. He is also planning to pull the new bolt set and check them every 25
hours until
someone determines what is happening here.
This little note is to pass a heads-up... and to inform those who are
interested that
the bolts in question are the standard ones used on a 503 mounted IVO with a
3 inch spacer.
The heads are marked "8.8" and the head symbol is a triangle. They were
purchased
in the Spring of 2000 from his normal aviation supplier.
I'll pass along any further info which may surface later on this matter. I
offer
this anecdote not to be alarmist, but merely for whatever the
reader may think it is worth... Meantime, I plan to check mine at 25 hours,
too...
Beauford of Brandon
FF#076
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "T Miller" <safeharbor(at)kih.net> |
| Subject: | Re: KOLB FIREFLY |
Hi Beauford,
I grew up in Lexington, however I now live south about an hour and a half,
in Somerset, which is on beautiful Lake Cumberland.
I mentioned Kitplane magazine, because they do like to receive stories from
freelance writers, and if your lucky they just might pay you for speaking
your mind, and from your experiences.
I was going to go fly my Citabria today, but the winds picked up awhile ago,
and put an end to that idea. Oh well, I did get to take my 17 yr. old
daughter yesterday, and we had a blast.
Have a good day,
Tom Miller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
> I have to tell someone! I FINISHED PAINTING TODAY!
> L. Ray Baker
Congratulations Ray!!!
I know the feeling, from the past, and am anxiously looking
for it again in the near future.
Based on my progress, I will not be flying Miss P'fer to
Lakeland this year. Will pull the 5th wheel and live "a
little higher off the hog" than when roughing it. Everybody
is welcome to drop by. Will be in the main camping area,
probably on Poberezny Rd. Look for the '92 Dodge/Cummins
3/4 ton pickup, red, with a silver wing (wind deflector) on
the cab. Usually am on the north side of the street a block
or so east of the camp store.
I'll arrive Lakeland aprx 4 or 5 April, so I can get my old
camp spot and save room for my Chap 22 friends coming down
from Wetumpka, Alabama.
I stayed in the UL camp ground a couple times in the past,
but prefer the main camp ground. Take the bike and ride it
back and forth.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
I may wind up painting outside like John H.
> Denny Rowe
Denny and Gang:
I am only painting little stuff outside. It is definitely
not the way to do it, but in my case, at this time, I have
no other alternative. Besides, do not wish to get in the
show plane business anymore. Biggest problem outside was
some tiny black bugs. Breaks your heart to see the little
"bast----" stuck in your fresh aerothane. Ain't no way to
get them out without screwing up the paint.
When I get the fuselage out of the "mole hole" and start on
the wings, I will also start sterilizing the shop, staple
plastic to the ceiling and let it drape down the outside
walls. Pull air through a screened window and and exhaust
it out the end door. This, plus use of the tac rag, takes a
lot of chance out of the doping and finishing portion of the
project.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: typing in caps |
> JUST FOR ANYONE'S INFORMATION I AM A DIABETIC WHO HAS LOST BOTH OF MY EYES
> FOR SIX MONTHS AND HAVE HAD LAZER SURGERY ON BOTH AND HAVE TROUBLE SEEING
> TO TYPE.
>
> THANKS FOR YOUR SUPPORT
> JIMMY
Jimmy and Gang:
The "all capital letters" emails don't bother me. However,
I think you can still type and read ok if you increase the
font size of your email program. You can make those little
letters much larger than the CAPS you are now using.
By the way, this ain't the place to argue about type size
and CAPS. If anyone has a problem with this, they should
take to bc, directly to the individuals concerned. The
majority of the folks on this List are more concerned about
Kolb aircraft and related topics than Mickey Mouse
bickering. All that stuff is going into the Kolb Archives,
for what???
Folks, my own personal opinion. Have fun, build and fly
safely,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)epix.net> |
John,
Back in the early day Old Kolb painted some outside too - hated those bugs!
And its of no consolation that they die either - except there being one less
bug to play in the paint. What would really make me mad is the ones that
were strong enough to keep crawling around and leave tracks ... in addition
to their paint covered corpses.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Hauck
Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2001 12:38 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Progress!
I may wind up painting outside like John H.
> Denny Rowe
Denny and Gang:
I am only painting little stuff outside. It is definitely
not the way to do it, but in my case, at this time, I have
no other alternative. Besides, do not wish to get in the
show plane business anymore. Biggest problem outside was
some tiny black bugs. Breaks your heart to see the little
"bast----" stuck in your fresh aerothane. Ain't no way to
get them out without screwing up the paint.
When I get the fuselage out of the "mole hole" and start on
the wings, I will also start sterilizing the shop, staple
plastic to the ceiling and let it drape down the outside
walls. Pull air through a screened window and and exhaust
it out the end door. This, plus use of the tac rag, takes a
lot of chance out of the doping and finishing portion of the
project.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ray phillips" <harbormaster(at)raysmail.com> |
Hi all!
this will be the first of many ????
Will a 3 blade 52" ultra prop by competition aircraft inc. ground adjustable from
8 degrees to 18 degrees work on my UltraStar, it came with the 02 motor & 50X30
prop. What advantages or disadvantage should I expect.
Ray Phillips
UltraStar rebuilding!
Get you FREE Firstname email address at http://www.Firstname.com
Get a FREE Cell Phone at http://www.freecellphonedeal.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net> |
Ray,
If you will look, you'll notice that there is no helix (twist) built
into that prop. It is not an efficient prop. However, it is one of the
toughest, especially for abrasion, like grass, which unless you will be
lengthening your gear, your UltraStar will eat alot of. ....Richard
Swiderski
----- Original Message -----
From: "ray phillips" <harbormaster(at)raysmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2001 1:24 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: prop ??
>
> Hi all!
> this will be the first of many ????
> Will a 3 blade 52" ultra prop by competition aircraft inc. ground
adjustable from 8 degrees to 18 degrees work on my UltraStar, it came with
the 02 motor & 50X30 prop. What advantages or disadvantage should I expect.
>
> Ray Phillips
> UltraStar rebuilding!
>
>
> Get you FREE Firstname email address at http://www.Firstname.com
>
> Get a FREE Cell Phone at http://www.freecellphonedeal.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
> This little note is to pass a heads-up... and to inform those who are
> interested that
> the bolts in question are the standard ones used on a 503 mounted IVO with a
> 3 inch spacer.
> Beauford of Brandon
Beauford and Gang:
Is this 3" spacer (prop extention) the one Ivo makes from a
piece of alum tubing with not thrust lugs? If it is, that
may be the root of his problem.
Reference prop bolts. I purchase my 8.8 8mm prop bolts for
the 912S (did same for 912) from the local fastener shop.
There is nothing special about them. They are not aircraft
grade or anything else. I drill the heads after I get them
home. I have broken one in all the hundreds of hours I have
flown them.
I think he has a spacer problem, not a bolt problem.
I broke a lot more aircraft grade 1/4 inch prop bolts back
in the old days of 447 and 582. Forgot the Cuyuna II02.
Take care,
john h
PS: I just heard Daryl Waltrip make an interesting
statement while narrating the Atlanta 500. He said hold
their engines at extremely high rpm's for long period of
times was much harder on the engine and running them up to
red line and back down many times. Reason: Harmonic
vibrations are more distructive at extremely high rpms (near
red line), than varible rpm's up to red line. My style of
flying is high rpm's for long periods of time. But my high
rpm's, in porportion to NASCAR's is not nearly as high. :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net> |
Beauford & All,
I quit using 8.8 bolts years ago as they are close to a grade 5 SAE. I
now use 10.9 bolts as they are close to Grade 8 SAE. Grade 8 bolts are what
is used to secure flywheeels to cranks & rod caps to rods, so I concluded my
prop deserves grade 8 as well. Even though they are harder & stretch less
than grade 5's, we still need to torque them at the recommended torque for
the prop. ...Richard Swiderski
----- Original Message -----
From: "Beauford Tuton" <beauford(at)tampabay.rr.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2001 11:33 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Prop Bolts
>
> Kolbers and Kolbettes:
> Yesterday I had the good fortune to be present when one of the trike
> drivers who operates close by my tiedown was pulling his prop mounting
> bolts for their normal 100 hour swapout.
>
> He came over with a handfull of really scary looking bolts. Of the set,
> one had crystallized and about three quarters of an inch of the tip had
> broken off in the hub. Two others had lengthened
> and narrowed in the threaded area of the bolt to the extent that they
> appeared slightly hourglass shaped and the pitch of the threads was
> significantly distorted... The overall length of these two bolts had
> stretched roughly an 8th of an inch... The other bolts looked normal. He
> said
> that with the exception of the broken one, which almost fell out when
> unsaftied,
> they all unscrewed normally; i.e.none were seized or difficult.
>
> One's first inclination would be to suspect over-torqueing, or some other
> unusual abusive causal factor, but in this case I doubt it. This man is
no
> flake.
> He is an experienced, methodical German guy... Has had several trikes and
> tons of
> 2 stroke hours. He is a perfectionist... a stickler for detail. He has
had
> this particular trike with
> the same 503 and IVO setup on it for 600 hours. It is immaculate; you
> literally
> cannot find a blemish on it. As for the torque, this guy wouldn't go to
the
> bathroom
> without a torque wrench... He swears he did it by the book to the same
> values
> he used for the previous 5 sets of bolts.... and by the way, he still has
> the last
> two sets he removed, each in a separate, labeled container annotated with
> when he
> removed them... they are normal in appearance. He is understandably upset
> and is
> documenting this incident with photography and a series of letters to
Rotax,
> IVO, USUA,
> etc. He is also planning to pull the new bolt set and check them every
25
> hours until
> someone determines what is happening here.
>
> This little note is to pass a heads-up... and to inform those who are
> interested that
> the bolts in question are the standard ones used on a 503 mounted IVO with
a
> 3 inch spacer.
> The heads are marked "8.8" and the head symbol is a triangle. They were
> purchased
> in the Spring of 2000 from his normal aviation supplier.
>
> I'll pass along any further info which may surface later on this matter.
I
> offer
> this anecdote not to be alarmist, but merely for whatever the
> reader may think it is worth... Meantime, I plan to check mine at 25
hours,
> too...
>
> Beauford of Brandon
> FF#076
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ray L Baker <rbaker2(at)juno.com> |
John,
Looking forward to seeing you again at FNS. We are waiting until the big
rush is over. Will drop in Monday evening and then spend a couple of
days.
Ray
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Wing tip hand hole. |
| From: | Ray L Baker <rbaker2(at)juno.com> |
Listers,
For those who have not covered their wings yet, I found that the hand
hold hole in the wing tip was great asset during finishing. It gave me a
place to attach the small chains I used to suspend it from the ceiling
while spraying the many coats. They sure make handling the wings a lot
easier. I highly recommend including it.
L. Ray Baker
Lake Butler, Fl
Building Mark III, SN M1156--N629RB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
Guys,
I woke up this morning to bright sunshine and blue skies here in the
great frozen state of Minnesota. I listened to the forecast and it called
for a high of 35 degrees with light winds out of the east southeast. The
phone rang and it was my flying buddy Gary Voigt chomping at his bit to
get his FireStar into the morning sky. I told him I was busy writing a
babe on the Internet and I would soon be out to join him. I got a very
late start at 10:30 am (she's quite a babe), but the temps had risen to
20 degrees and the winds were still very light. Once set up, I asked Gary
where he wanted to go and since he is still in the learning stage, I
thought we could stick around the lake and practice our landings. We flew
8 miles to another bay on this big frozen lake and landed. There was all
kinds of activity in the air today. We saw a powered paraglider (unit
with the backpack motor) flying up there at 1000'. That guy was having a
ball. We decided to head over to Lake Independence about 10 miles away
and I asked Gary to stay off my right wing. We took off simultaneously
and I climbed to altitude and headed out. It's a common practice for me
to slow down and wait for my wingman to catch up. This was still very new
for Gary as he has not ventured away from the comfort of the lake area.
He hung with me for most of the way until that last 3 miles and I lost
him. I landed on the lake and saw that he was not coming, so I took off
and backtracked until I saw him on one of the other bays of Lake
Minnetonka. I was wondering what he was doing down there when he was
supposed to be up here with me. Well, I landed and his excuse this time
was that he happened to get ahead of me, turned around, and lost sight of
me. What can I say?
We had a great flying day with lots of interested people asking the usual
questions. I even practiced my deadstick landings by switching the engine
off at 800' and gliding down to the lake surface. I did three of these
and it was fun. One commercial pilot on the ground was sold on the
FireStar immediately and wanted one bad.
I still have to work on Gary to get him to stick with me on these
flights. One of these days that boy will learn.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Alexander <gtalexander(at)att.net> |
Have a line on an older Firestar (probably from a kit around
1990 but not completed until mid 90's) with R377, BRS 5
(about 3 yrs old) and modest instruments. Not sure put most
likely around 100 hrs TTAE. Not flown in a couple of
years, but always hangered.
Can't find any comparables advertised anywhere on the net.
Any guesses, opinions, recent experiences , etc... as to
approximate value?
Thanks,
George Alexander
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clay Stuart" <cstuart(at)searnet.com> |
On the Mark IIIXtra plans, there are no rivets called for on the metal foot
of the root rib that extends inside the bottom of the wing spar. Looking at
pictures that Roddy from Cincinnati took at the Kolb factory shows
approximately 20 rivets (two rows of 10) in this area. I need to know the
rivet number and spacing for this.
Roddy has the Mark III classic plans and manual that he got before changing
over to the Xtra. That entailed remaking the tail feathers. The classic
manual warns about cutting the leading edges of the elevators out of one
piece of tubing (7/8" x .058), but the Xtra manual does not. Because of
that, I don't have two pieces of tubing left that are long enough to
construct the inner tube of the drag strut. The manual for the classic
seems to go into more detail than mine and the plans for the classic are
about twice the size (paper is much larger, as are the drawings) than the
ones I got for the Xtra. If anyone with the classic plans wonders why the
Xtra builders are sometimes asking obvious questions, it may because of the
difference in the manual or plans.
I had a very enjoyable and informative visit with Roddy this weekend. He is
a superb craftsman. For example, he contoured his gussets to lay flush with
the tubing by using a piece of rounded corner metal stock before riveting to
place. Similar to what Dean Halstead shows on his website, but I think Dean
shaped his after placement.
Clay Stuart
Mark IIIXtra
on left wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)epix.net> |
Hi Bill,
Good to hear from you.
Angles should go on:
(1) every rib between the leading edge tube and the main spar, (including
the end rib).
(2) the outboard rib behind the main spar to the rear spar.
Are you thinking about a 503?
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
WVarnes(at)aol.com
Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2001 12:33 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Older Firestar
In a message dated 03/08/2001 5:13:08 PM Eastern Standard Time,
flykolb(at)epix.net writes:
> The angles are stock aluminum 90 degree
> angles. But the angles are not attached to the front spar directly. They
> are riveted to the main spar gusset and to the nose gusset on the opposite
> side of the rib tubing. The top is positioned as far up as it can be
> installed and the bottom is installed as close to the bottom of the wing
as
> possible.
>
> In the later FireStar plans this reinforcement was shown as an addition if
>
Dennis Souder
I understand what you are explaning, as I had installed those angles while
building the wing. But one more question please. On the discussion about
modifying the wing for the 503 installation, do you mean to just add the
angle to the outboard wing rib, or to all 5 ribs?
Bill Varnes
Original FireStar-Rotax 377
Audubon, NJ USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net> |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Beauford Tuton" <beauford(at)tampabay.rr.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2001 6:10 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Prop Bolts
>
> John:
> BTSOOM..... Thrust lugs, aye.... Going TDY 10 for days mid-week and
> will not see the trike soul next weekend. Will check with him ref the
> spacer he is using ASAP, however .... probably during the following
weekend.
> Only thing which comes to my shattered excuse for a mind, is why this
> problem now...? He has 600 hours on this gizmo... has been through all
these
> previous sets of bolts... and is using the same torque wrench he has
always
> used... Why the bad event at this point...?
any chance he accidentally torqued to foot pounds instead of inch pounds?
that factor of twelve is fairly significant!!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb Firestar |
George,
My estimate is between $5,000 and $8,000.
John Jung
George Alexander wrote:
>
> Have a line on an older Firestar (probably from a kit around
> 1990 but not completed until mid 90's) with R377, BRS 5
> (about 3 yrs old) and modest instruments. Not sure put most
> likely around 100 hrs TTAE. Not flown in a couple of
> years, but always hangered.
> Can't find any comparables advertised anywhere on the net.
> Any guesses, opinions, recent experiences , etc... as to
> approximate value?
snip.......
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Steuber" <esteuber(at)rochester.rr.com> |
I am rebuilding an Ultrastar and found that the prop (Culver 50x36) has
1/4inch aircraft bolts that fit in what looks like 5/16 holes in the
prop flange. The prop has evidence (slight burning) on the hub from
running 15 hours since rebuild .Should I ream the holes to 5/16 and go
to the larger aircraft bolt ?.....Also have BRS-5 cannister chute that
is for sale and needs repack but rocket still good. Make an offer
......Ed Steuber , Western N.Y.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | fuel supply question, more input |
| From: | "Jim Gerken" <gerken(at)us.ibm.com> |
03/12/2001 09:04:13 AM
(For the guy asking for input on his fuel supply lines>>>)
when plumbing my mkiii, I used both fuel filters BEFORE the brass "T". So
each tank has a filter before they are combined a the "T". This gives a
couple advantages; first, the flow restriction caused by having the
filters on the intake side of the fuel pump is cut in half (less
restriction because of twice the filter area), second, you get a chance to
notice a plugged filter by the uneven usage from the tanks (one tank would
go down faster than the other if one filter was plugged). It offer some
redundancy, think about it.
I went a step further by brazing a 1/8" nipple fitting to the brass "T"
(and then drilling it thru), to allow tapping off the 1/8" primer line
supply from this point, thus eliminating two more clamped fittings. I
have removed the large primer bulb completly now, and removed the chokes
and cables last year, and now rely on the push-pull primer only. This
works fine and seems to offer the simplest, lightest system. It also
reduces fittings and fuel line length. I have not used a gascolator.
However, I do siphon-clean my tanks every couple months to remove colected
particulate and water. The tanks dip tubes go to 3/4" from bottom, so the
water and dirt particles stay in the tank (until siphoned out). To do this
siphoning, I used a large primer bulb connected to some fuel line hose and
a pc of copper tube 3 feet long so I can get right to the bottom and suck
the chunks and water out of there. To do this, the tank does not have to
be empty, but if it is empty you can see the bottom better. The fuel I
siphon out goes into my car.
Jim G
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dale Seitzer <dale(at)gmada.com> |
I have seen them advertized from $7,000 to $12,000. Value is in the eye
of the beholder. In negotiations, the first person to mention a price
usually loses. The Kolbs tend to maintain their value--if you maintain it
you will get what you paid for it minus engine wear. Dale Seitzer
-----Original Message-----
From: George Alexander
Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2001 8:44 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Kolb Firestar
Have a line on an older Firestar (probably from a kit around
1990 but not completed until mid 90's) with R377, BRS 5
(about 3 yrs old) and modest instruments. Not sure put most
likely around 100 hrs TTAE. Not flown in a couple of
years, but always hangered.
Can't find any comparables advertised anywhere on the net.
Any guesses, opinions, recent experiences , etc... as to
approximate value?
Thanks,
George Alexander
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darren Smalec" <smald(at)shianet.org> |
Group--
Being a auto painter by profession, I would like to offer a little trick
that may save your paint.
Roll a pice of masking tape into a sharp cone with the adhesive outside, and
you can many times pick the contamination out with it. Steady hands are
recomended.
Spray On--!
Darren Smalec, FS1, Central MI.
>>. Biggest problem outside was
>>some tiny black bugs. Breaks your heart to see the little
>>"bast----" stuck in your fresh aerothane. Ain't no way to
>>get them out without screwing up the paint.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
> Roll a pice of masking tape into a sharp cone with the adhesive outside, and
> you can many times pick the contamination out with it. Steady hands are
> recomended.
> Spray On--!
> Darren Smalec, FS1, Central MI.
Darren and Gang:
Appreciate the tip. I will have me a masking tape tool
prepared next time I shoot<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
Take care,
john
PS: Got to get off the computer. We are in the midst of a
line of thunder storms from Louisiana to Tennessee. There
February 21, 2001 - March 12, 2001
Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-cs