RV-Archive.digest.vol-qz
June 12, 2005 - June 26, 2005
----- Original Message -----
| From: | "jacklockamy" <jacklockamy(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Memory Card GX-50 |
>
> Anyone know of a USB memory card reader/writer that will work with the
> flash card in a Garmin (aka. Apollo) GX-60? Jeppesen has one but they
> want a 'whopping $150 plus shipping" for what should be a $10 item....
> I'm having trouble swallowing that kind of expense.
>
> Any suggestions would be appreciated. I've seen 12-in-1 USB flash card
> reader/writers advertized for about $10 bucks on E-Bay, but don't know if
> they are compatible with the Jeppesen databases/GX-50 flash cards.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Jack Lockamy
> Camarillo, CA
> RV-7A flying (N174JL)
> www.jacklockamy.com
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Crosley" <rcrosley(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: VAN'S TACH PROBLEMStach sensorVan's Tach Doctor Needed |
I'll pass along my Van's tach experience, maybe it will help. HIS TROUBLESHOOTING
PARAGRAPH IS WRONG! I Installed gage and sender per directions, started engine,
needle sat on zero. I could see the prop goin' round and round, so I figured
the needle should move. Go to troubleshooting info. I checked power and
ground - good. Go to paragraph 2. Gage reads zero so paragraph 2 doesn't apply.
Paragraph 3 --- the gage does show zero - this is my paragraph. I do what
it says, I ground the wire from the sender and the gage still reads zero.
Gage is bad -- it says, I order a new gage, airplane sits on ground, install same,
get same results. Another bad gage? Unlikely-but possible Call Van's,
Ken says bad sender, I say nothing in your trouble shooting info points to the
sender, everything points to the gage. I say, look send me both a gage and
a sender. They do, I hook every thing up on the bench and run my little drill.
All gages good, first sender bad. I install good sender and any one of three
gages and the system works great. Bottom line, In my case the grounding of
the gage never sent the needle full scale on any gage. The troubleshooting
instructions lead me the wrong direction, cost me two weeks waiting for my first
flight. I told Van's - but I bet the paperwork reads the same. Now here is
my little grip with Van's --- Their typical response is "4000 of these are flying
so it's OK, they all figured it out" Inference being --What's wrong with
you! I pointed out a few drawing screwups along the way and that was the general
response I got. Now maybe I'm spoiled, I did build a Christen Eagle a
few years ago. But, I think in many instances builders build good airplanes
in spit of Van's drawings, not because of them. Ken was very helpful, as always
and sympathized with my plight, but I'll bet the directions didn't change.
Rich Crosley
RV-8, N948RC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Reynolds <rvreynolds(at)macs.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Air Chart Systems |
I used the the IFR/VFR Low Altitude Planning Chart for the route
planning and then transferred the route to the VFR Sectional Atlas. I
used the erasable markers, great products. I used post-it notes to
remind me what page to turn to, especially when the route was close
to the edge, Do not forget to label the next page so as to be able
return the the previous page. When you do 180s, you want to know what
is behind you.
Richard Reynolds, Norfolk, VA
RV-6A N841RV
On Jun 11, 2005, at 10:39 PM, Richard Sipp wrote:
>
> For you guys using and liking the AvCharts, how are you plotting a
> long
> track line that crosses several pages?
>
> Dick Sipp
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Re: Air Chart Systems
>
>
>>
>> Dan I love it. Gee, even famous astronauts, WWII fighter pilots and
>> airshow performers endorse it. I bought mine in the 1999-2000
>> year. I had
>> the VFR Atlas (discontinued I see) and VFR Topo Atlas. The Topo
>> Atlas is
>> really just color US Gov sectionals chopped up and placed into the
>> book.
>> In the back are excerpts of Terminal charts. That is one thing I
>> would
>> never do is go into any terminal area, like LAX area, VFR with out a
>> terminal chart, even with a GPS. I just like having the paper in
>> hand. The
>> only thing I can say negative is sometimes the page breaks are in bad
>> places, take LAX area for example, it is not central on a page but is
>> divided in 1/2 N-S, which is a little pain. They are receptive to
>> customer
>> input and no doubt revise and improve the page "pagination". No
>> big deal
>> but just a little pain sometimes if the palce you want to look at
>> is split
>> between pages.
>>
>> The VFR Atlas was like a monochrome IFR enroute chart (no topo) with
>> airways, VORs, all airports (VFR or IFR), ATC freq and airport
>> diagram for
>> selected airports. I really did not use it much since I used GPS
>> direct
>> most of the time. That is why they likely discontinued it. The IFR
>> Atlas
>> is probably near equivalent. The nice thin g about the VFR Atlas
>> was the
>> ATC freqs and data was easier to see without the Topo info.
>>
>> My recommendation is buy it (VFR Topo), at least once, you will
>> use it.
>> However for me with color GPS and terrain it is kind of
>> redundant, but it
>> is nice to have the paper for back-up and planning.
>>
>> If you are really going to travel the USA, anywhere the wind
>> blows, it is
>> a good deal vs buying individual (VFR) sectionals or (IFR) enroute
>> charts.
>> Also if weather of change of plans calls for a detour you are
>> covered. I
>> recall you got updated for one year with the purchase price.
>> However weh I
>> had it I recall the updates (28 days) are done manually by NOTAM
>> and with
>> pen and a revision log. This keeps the cost down while still
>> keeping you
>> legal.
>>
>> Looking at their site I see they have a new revision service for
>> extra
>> cost? If you are a local 2, 3 , 4 state flyer than maybe this
>> system is
>> overkill, but I think a one time purchase is a fine idea.
>> Personally now I
>> buy WAC's or sectional charts as I needed, check NOTAMS by the WEB
>> & Flt
>> Service and update my GPS data-base as needed. For me the things
>> that can
>> get you into trouble are things that happen real fast and are
>> disseminated
>> by NOTAM: local, Distant, FDC. Airspace restrictions, towers, runway
>> closure, GPS out of service can come out before the 28 day cycle,
>> so any
>> chart system is not a sure thing. I have always been impressed
>> (intimidated) by how much data a pilot really needs to study to be
>> truly
>> legal. We do the best we can. Don't laugh I am an ATP, CFI, CFII
>> and MEI
>> and even airlines miss it. An Airline, no names please, flew a
>> route to
>> the pacific rim and use Guam as an alternate. Guam is permanently
>> closed/dismantled, D'oh.
>>
>> I fly VFR in my RV, but I might be a little more rigorous if I was
>> IFR,
>> but I do all the IFR I want at work.
>>
>> I think you will like it, especially if you plan on lots of
>> travel in the
>> near term. You will get your money out of it. Even though my Air
>> Chart
>> System is not current it makes a nice reference.
>>
>> Cheers George
>>
>> From: Dan Krueger <pndkrueg(at)mchsi.com>
>> Subject: Air Chart Systems
>> Date: Jun 10, 2005
>>
>>
>> I looked at their charts at Sun n Fun, but it was to busy for me to
>> really get a feel for using their VFR Sectional Atlas. My wife is
>> tired
>> of folding sectionals. Their product seams ideal for our planes. Any
>> comments on the ease of using the VFR Atlas would be greatly
>> appreciated.
>> Thanks
>> Dan Krueger
>> RV6A Flying
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Duckett <perfeng(at)3rivers.net> |
Mark,
Wheather your doing paint work with a rattle can or a $700 HVLP gun you
still need to prep the work. As far as rattle cans go you need to make
sure it is well shaken, the temp of the product and the work is at least
68 degrees, and you apply enough product (coats) to allow proper flow.
Of course you need to make sure the work is clean, physically and
chemically.
I wouldn't recommend buying the cheapest stuff you can find. Look for
cans that have a fan type nozzle rahter than the standard conical you
see on most. There are several of these Fan Type spray cans out there
such as Martin-Seynour and others.
Just pull the cap off and check before you buy. As the old saying
goes...you get what you pay for!
As for blimishes...stop painting when you get them, fix the blimish
either by wiping it off, sanding or what ever you need before you
continue. you could finish coating the work and then sand and polish
but it's easier to fix the problem when it happens.
Jim Duckett N708JD
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Paint Question |
| From: | Kendel McCarley <kmmccarley(at)earthlink.net> |
> As for blimishes...stop painting when you get them, fix the blimish
> either by wiping it off, sanding or what ever you need before you
> continue. you could finish coating the work and then sand and polish
> but it's easier to fix the problem when it happens.
Except for drips or runs. I find those a lot easier to fix after the
paint is dry by using the razor trick. Since the paint is thicker in
the run, it does take longer to dry hard where this will work, so give
it an extra day.
To use the razor, put a burr on it by drawing across a piece of
sandpaper at a 45 degree angle. I use 1000 grit since the razor ends up
with close to the same grit as the sandpaper used to form the burr.
Once the edge is prepped, turn the blade over and use it as a mini
scraper to draw off the extra paint. Once the paint surface is even,
use 1500 grit sandpaper across the grain of the draw marks and then hit
it with polish.
I'll be using the trick myself in a few days on the Jeep I just finished
painting this morning. Whoops! Got a little extra paint on one spot.
- Kendel McCarley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Air Chart Systems |
>
>
>I'll probably break down & buy my own pretty soon, & try to find some
>erasable markers to mark my course in the book.
>
>
Sporty's has a nice set of erasable highlighters which I use for just
this purpose.
http://www.sportys.com/acb/showdetl.cfm?&did=19&product_id=6048
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee WI
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Duckett <perfeng(at)3rivers.net> |
Okay Mike, I'll try to answer your questions as a custom painter for
well... since gas was 29.9.
Anway, Alodine and or acid washes are generally only used with new alcad
to help the substraint "bite to the base material (alcad). As several
others have said, we generally use a spray bottle or sponge to apply the
conversion coating. In our case we pressure wash every thing several
times whether we use alodine or not. Cleanliness is next to Godliness
or atleast helps with a nice finish!
Most acid baths and conversion coatings are such that when diluted with
wash water it's generally about the Ph of vinegar but we still use a
catch basin made out of visquine and check it with Ph paper, neutralize
it if need be, before it goes down the drain.
Our normal procedure for a "new " bird is wash, dry, measure for
lay-outs of stripes, color breaks, etc., disassemble as needed, wash,
dry, blow down, conversion coat, wash, dry, blow down, mask, wipe, tack,
prime, sand, unmask, wash, dry, blow down, mask, wipe, tack, base coat,
tack, clear coat, buff, unmask, wash, dry, blow down, polish, wash, dry,
blow down, assemble, final detail polish.
As you can see, lots of washing. Most contaminates come from the work
itself in most cases. A lot of the process above is not really needed on
new work but, its our normal routine on nearly everything that comes
into the shop.
As far as filling rivet lines, the biggest problem is getting the filler
to "bite" to the alcad. Thats why you rough up metal when you use
filler. The problem is you can't rough up close enough to the rivet
head to achieve total adhesion. Flexing, moisture, temp changes, fuel,
etc. eventually gets into this minute space and POP, the filler, as well
as the paint comes off. It can be done but, lots of time, lots of
weight, and lots and lots of sanding and priming!
If you have to have a slick skin you can always glue it on using Fusor
or other products that are designed for that purpose.
I personnally look at it this way, airplanes are meant to fly, not sit
on the ground. Build and paint your ship the way it pleases you...not
the critics at the fly-in!
Just my humble opinion!
Jim Duckett N708JD
Jimmie Dee's Custom Hot Rod Shop
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com> |
Lots of good information as always, Thanks Jim.
Just a small nit... Alodine is used to prevent filiform corrosion, a
particularly nasty form of corrosion that can travel under your painted
surface. The web has lots more information on this. With proper prep it's
not too big a worry, except that there is not cure other then replacement.
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Duckett" <perfeng(at)3rivers.net>
Subject: RV-List: Painting
>
> Okay Mike, I'll try to answer your questions as a custom painter for
> well... since gas was 29.9.
> Anway, Alodine and or acid washes are generally only used with new alcad
> to help the substraint "bite to the base material (alcad). As several
> others have said, we generally use a spray bottle or sponge to apply the
> conversion coating. In our case we pressure wash every thing several
> times whether we use alodine or not. Cleanliness is next to Godliness
> or atleast helps with a nice finish!
> Most acid baths and conversion coatings are such that when diluted with
> wash water it's generally about the Ph of vinegar but we still use a
> catch basin made out of visquine and check it with Ph paper, neutralize
> it if need be, before it goes down the drain.
> Our normal procedure for a "new " bird is wash, dry, measure for
> lay-outs of stripes, color breaks, etc., disassemble as needed, wash,
> dry, blow down, conversion coat, wash, dry, blow down, mask, wipe, tack,
> prime, sand, unmask, wash, dry, blow down, mask, wipe, tack, base coat,
> tack, clear coat, buff, unmask, wash, dry, blow down, polish, wash, dry,
> blow down, assemble, final detail polish.
> As you can see, lots of washing. Most contaminates come from the work
> itself in most cases. A lot of the process above is not really needed on
> new work but, its our normal routine on nearly everything that comes
> into the shop.
> As far as filling rivet lines, the biggest problem is getting the filler
> to "bite" to the alcad. Thats why you rough up metal when you use
> filler. The problem is you can't rough up close enough to the rivet
> head to achieve total adhesion. Flexing, moisture, temp changes, fuel,
> etc. eventually gets into this minute space and POP, the filler, as well
> as the paint comes off. It can be done but, lots of time, lots of
> weight, and lots and lots of sanding and priming!
> If you have to have a slick skin you can always glue it on using Fusor
> or other products that are designed for that purpose.
> I personnally look at it this way, airplanes are meant to fly, not sit
> on the ground. Build and paint your ship the way it pleases you...not
> the critics at the fly-in!
> Just my humble opinion!
> Jim Duckett N708JD
> Jimmie Dee's Custom Hot Rod Shop
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Air Chart Systems (Horse N Buggy) |
>For you guys using and liking the AvCharts, how are you plotting a long
>track line that crosses several pages?
>Dick Sipp
Dick: You can't do it, but why would you. : - )
You are right it is not good for this point to point planning over long distance, that is why you would need a U.S. IFR/VFR Low Altitude Planning Chart http://www.naco.faa.gov/index.asp?xml=naco/catalog/charts/planning/ela Once you have a general course across the US you can transfer it to the Av chart, however I don't use paper any more for long distance planning.
Why would you want to plot a line on paper? I now use my GPS (which I can take
with me into the FBO), desktop computer and flt planning software or web based
flt planning (DUAT, EAA, AOPA, Jeppesen). EAA members get free flight planning
and DUAT is free. FBO's usually have a computer to use. The other FBO's have
the famous chart on the wall. You know the one with the tack centered at the
home airport with a string.
I must admit simple (paper and pen) still works well. I am not saying not to have
paper, even the Airlines with their fancy flight management systems and whole
dispatch (flight planning / flight following) departments still use charts
and printed flight plans (which you still check-off way points and note position,
fuel and time). However for VFR in the US is not real critical but weather
and TRF's you really need to tap into the electronic super highway to get the
best picture. Things change fast.
The AvChart is great in the cockpit but not planning a long trip. The old paper
and pencil is going the way of E6B altogether. I use to plot a line, convert
true to mag course, than convert to mag heading and correct for wind: True course
+/- Mag Deviation = Mag Course +/- Compass Correction = Compass Heading
+/- (W)ind = Compass Steer. Now I just punch it into the computer, it gets the
weather and calculates all this, with time, fuel and vertical nav including
terrain clearance. Plus it will file the flight plan if I want.
Obviously if your trip is 1/2 way on the other side of the country you need a planning
chart or software to do a good job. With hand held GPS and PDA's with
data bases it is pretty easy to get the data you need with out paper, but I still
have paper as a back-up and is nice to have.
Since our RV's can do some good traveling, about 600-800 Sm in one hop, may be
1000mi with extra tanks, we have the ability to get almost real time weather in
the cockpit, including radar and surface depiction charts. Or you can get you
PDA out with its WiFi card and down load all the weather you need and file a
flight plan while sitting at the airport restaurant. Things have changed a lot
in the last decade or so.
I don't fly IFR or enough cross country in my RV to justify the near real time
cockpit weather service for me. If the weather is that marginal that I need near
real time weather I am going to landing.
***I am trying to get my PDA to work with a phone modem so I can dial up date and
down load all at info and carry it in the cockpit. I have a ipaq and the modem
but can't get it to work. Any ideas? Know of any good PDA flight planing /
weather getting software.***
Calling Flight Service to get a weather brief with words alone, especially in an
area your not familiar with, is never as good as a color picture. I remember
flying cross country and calling a local FS and they started talking "Well you
have a Low in the four corner area moving towards Towaoc with moisture from
the flat-lands producing the typical up slope flow........" This is a little
made-up but not by much. I had no idea what the hell he was talking about. You
be surprise how many 4-corners and tri-state areas there are. A laptop is nice
to have on a trip.
Picture an elder man with his Grandson on his knee "Well Sonny believe it or not
we used paper charts to navigate back in the day when we had things called airplanes,
before the invention of hover board."
Cheers George
---------------------------------
Stay in touch with email, IM, photo sharing & more. Check it out!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jacklockamy" <jacklockamy(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | U-channel rubber molding |
Does u-channel rubber molding come in any color other than black? If so, could
you please provide a vendor website, phone number, etc.
Looking for some red and/or white rubber u-channel molding to install in various
locations. All I can locate is black colored. Guess the only other alternative
is to paint the black stuff, but not sure how that will look (or work for
that matter....).
Jack Lockamy
Camarillo, CA
RV-7A flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net> |
| Subject: | Re: U-channel rubber molding |
jacklockamy wrote:
>
>Does u-channel rubber molding come in any color other than black? If so, could
you please provide a vendor website, phone number, etc.
>
>Looking for some red and/or white rubber u-channel molding to install in various
locations. All I can locate is black colored. Guess the only other alternative
is to paint the black stuff, but not sure how that will look (or work for
that matter....).
>
>Jack Lockamy
>Camarillo, CA
>RV-7A flying
>
>
>
I haven't looked but would bet you could find it at McMaster-Carr.
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph Koger" <rhkoger(at)fbx.com> |
| Subject: | Boone, IA RV Day |
Join us Saturday June 18th for the annual RV Fly-in at Boone, IA (BNW)
View three RV-7s, RV-8, three RV-9s (2 quick builds) and three RV-10s under construction.
Presentations include: The Interior; Wiring Aircraft Systems; The Builder's Wife;
First Flight/Transition Training Observations; and Doing a Thorough Annual.
Coffee and donuts in the morning.
BBQ Pork Sandwiches at noon.
This is home town for Cleaveland Tool Company, DJ's interiors and Koger SunShade.
As in the past, for those that attend next Saturday's RV fly-in here in Boone,
I will sell my "Koger SunShades" at below wholesale price.
Come and enjoy the day and for those building, see what is going on in Boone, IA
" Mid USA RV Center". Three full time people building and helping others with
their RV's
Ralph Koger
Phone (515) 432-5714
rhkoger(at)fbx.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Crosley" <rcrosley(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | UP-DATE VAN'S TACH PROBLEMS tach sensorVan's Tach Doctor Needed |
TACH UPDATE---Went flying today, after I wrote the email below. As I was leaving
to come home --- I looked down and the TACH read ZERO. The curse of the tach.
Think I'll buy something else this time.
Rich Crosley
RV-8, N948RC minus tach
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Crosley
Subject: Re: RV-List: VAN'S TACH PROBLEMStach sensorVan's Tach Doctor Needed
I'll pass along my Van's tach experience, maybe it will help. HIS TROUBLESHOOTING
PARAGRAPH IS WRONG! I Installed gage and sender per directions, started engine,
needle sat on zero. I could see the prop goin' round and round, so I figured
the needle should move. Go to troubleshooting info. I checked power and
ground - good. Go to paragraph 2. Gage reads zero so paragraph 2 doesn't apply.
Paragraph 3 --- the gage does show zero - this is my paragraph. I do what
it says, I ground the wire from the sender and the gage still reads zero.
Gage is bad -- it says, I order a new gage, airplane sits on ground, install same,
get same results. Another bad gage? Unlikely-but possible Call Van's,
Ken says bad sender, I say nothing in your trouble shooting info points to the
sender, everything points to the gage. I say, look send me both a gage and
a sender. They do, I hook every thing up on the bench and run my little drill.
All gages good, first sender bad. I install good sender and any one of three
gages and the system works great. Bottom line, In my case the grounding of
the gage never sent the needle full scale on any gage. The troubleshooting
instructions lead me the wrong direction, cost me two weeks waiting for my first
flight. I told Van's - but I bet the paperwork reads the same. Now here is
my little grip with Van's --- Their typical response is "4000 of these are flying
so it's OK, they all figured it out" Inference being --What's wrong with
you! I pointed out a few drawing screwups along the way and that was the general
response I got. Now maybe I'm spoiled, I did build a Christen Eagle a
few years ago. But, I think in many instances builders build good airplanes
in spit of Van's drawings, not because of them. Ken was very helpful, as always
and sympathized with my plight, but I'll bet the directions didn't change.
Rich Crosley
RV-8, N948RC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Taylor" <mtaylo17(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Alternate Static Valve |
Listers,
Does anybody know where I can get me one off these? I've searched high and
low on the web and found not a lot. There was one hit to Safair, but they're
'coming soon'. I'd like something like the type found in Cessnas where you
can pull the big red knob.
Thanks for anybody's help!
Mark.
www.4sierratango.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Alternate Static Valve |
I used a quick drain fuel valve. The type you can twist and lock open. Not
glamorous, but it works fine.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark Taylor
> Sent: Sunday, June 12, 2005 10:45 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Alternate Static Valve
>
>
> Listers,
>
> Does anybody know where I can get me one off these? I've
> searched high and low on the web and found not a lot. There
> was one hit to Safair, but they're 'coming soon'. I'd like
> something like the type found in Cessnas where you can pull
> the big red knob.
>
> Thanks for anybody's help!
>
> Mark.
> www.4sierratango.com
>
>
> Photoshare, and much much more:
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rudder Questions: bending the skin and torquing the rod ends |
Hi all,
I finished riveting in the rudder stiffeners today. Built a brake and tried
bending. I was scratching my head about a couple of details:
1. Do you put the fold right in the crotch of the brake or a little ways out?
My bend is smooth and pretty consistent but I was wondering about the radius
of the bend and how you control it. The instructions say that the radius is
called out on the plans. Must be very fine print, because I could not find it.
2. I did not bend the skin to the point that it closes on the spar with no
tension. Should I bend some more until it just sits at spar width? Right now
it pulls down easily and with everything clecoed together, it looks pretty
straight.
3. When it is time to install the rod-ends that make the hinge, you put on a
jam nut and then screw them into the platenut to get the correct length. The
jam nut goes down to keep it from moving. How tight do you tighten the jam
nut? My torque wrench is a socket and so a am guessing you can't use an actual
torque specification. Thoughts?
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV-8, Empennage
San Ramon, California
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6(at)bryantechnology.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternate Static Valve |
Mark,
The advice I got some time ago was a: FFV03 valve from Aircraft Spruce.
Never got one yet but still plan to.
Tim Bryan
RV-6
-------Original Message-------
From: Mark Taylor
Date: 06/12/05 19:49:18
Subject: RV-List: Alternate Static Valve
Listers,
Does anybody know where I can get me one off these? I've searched high and
low on the web and found not a lot. There was one hit to Safair, but they're
'coming soon'. I'd like something like the type found in Cessnas where you
can pull the big red knob.
Thanks for anybody's help!
Mark.
www.4sierratango.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FOR SALE: Turn Coordinator |
A long shot for sure, but is it sold?
Mine just crapped out from the night in the salt mud....
Scott in Vancouver
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: RV-List: FOR SALE: Turn Coordinator
>
> FOR SALE:
> Mid-Continent T100-7 turn coordinator + AMP TC connector
> Purchased brand new from Chief Aircraft in 2003.
> Retails for $509 + $19 for the connector.
> In perfect working order, has worked flawlessly for 400+ hours.
>
> Will sell for $375 including the already-wired TC connector.
>
> Photo here:
> http://chiefaircraft.com/Aircraft/FlightInstruments/Images/MDCT_T100-7.jpg
>
> Reason for selling: upgrading my Digitrak to a Pictorial Pilot,
> consolidating the two instruments.
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard McBride" <rickrv8(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Alternate Static Valve |
I picked up a used Cessna alternate static valve from Wentworth Salvage
while at OSH one year for about $15. I put in O rings and it works just
fine.
Rick McBride
>From: "Mark Taylor" <mtaylo17(at)msn.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Alternate Static Valve
>Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2005 22:44:37 -0400
>
>
>Listers,
>
>Does anybody know where I can get me one off these? I've searched high and
>low on the web and found not a lot. There was one hit to Safair, but
>they're
>'coming soon'. I'd like something like the type found in Cessnas where you
>can pull the big red knob.
>
>Thanks for anybody's help!
>
>Mark.
>www.4sierratango.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LARRY ADAMSON" <rvhi03(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FOR SALE: Turn Coordinator |
----- Original Message -----
From: Scott Jackson
Subject: Re: RV-List: FOR SALE: Turn Coordinator
If it is sold, I also have a 2001 (purchased new) RC Allen TSO'd turn coordinator
with connector for sale.
11-30 volt with 28v. bezel light. Was installed in panel & power applied a few
times, but no flight time.
Replaced with an EZ pilot A/P that required the space.
Larry Adamson
rvhi03(at)msn.com
A long shot for sure, but is it sold?
Mine just crapped out from the night in the salt mud....
Scott in Vancouver
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: RV-List: FOR SALE: Turn Coordinator
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Prime platenuts? |
Hi all,
I am about to assemble my rudder. The large nutplates that carry the rod
ends look to be made of a malleable steel. Should they primed? If so, how do
you prep the surface?
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV-8, Empennage
San Ramon, California
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Questions: bending the skin and torquing the rod ends |
This has probably been covered, but heres my take:
1. Do you put the fold right in the crotch of the brake or a little ways out?
My bend is smooth and pretty consistent but I was wondering about the radius
of the bend and how you control it. The instructions say that the radius
is
called out on the plans. Must be very fine print, because I could not find
it.
I put a 1/8" diameter rod in the bend to prevent sharp creases and control the
radius of the bend. When you do this, you need a brake that has a 1/8" gap between
surfaces when it is fully closed. Otherwise, you will have to move the
work way out from the hinge and the bending effort required will go up dramatically.
2. I did not bend the skin to the point that it closes on the spar with no
tension. Should I bend some more until it just sits at spar width? Right
now
it pulls down easily and with everything clecoed together, it looks pretty
straight.
I aimed for resting on the spar. The goal is a flat control surface but the bigger
offender here can come when you form the leading edge. It's important to
support from the spar aft on a flat surface during the forming in such a way
that there's no deformation. I clamped my rudder to a table with a flat board.
3. When it is time to install the rod-ends that make the hinge, you put on
a
jam nut and then screw them into the platenut to get the correct length.
The
jam nut goes down to keep it from moving. How tight do you tighten the jam
nut? My torque wrench is a socket and so a am guessing you can't use an
actual
torque specification. Thoughts?
The jam nut is half thickness so use half the normal torque value for the thread.
AC43-13 table 7-1 has exact values on page 7-9. You can get pretty close
by tightening a nut with the torque wrench in an accessable place like your shop
bench vise. Then, using the setup you will use to tighten the jam nut, get
the correct 'feel' by tightening the nut til it just turns. Do this a few times
then go do the rudder and tighten the jam nut. If you're real anal, you can
tighten one at the bench, then check it with the torque wrench until you can
get it right. But note from the table that there's a big range of acceptable
limits so it won't hurt to be some tighter than the minimum in the table. Of
course, there's no point doing this until you've mounted the rudder to the vertical
stabilizer to get the position you want.
Dave Reel - RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternate Static Valve |
If you want to go the less expensive route, you can buy a valve from Parker.
Its a little plastic valve with push-in fittings. Its cheap and I doubt
I'll ever need it. I mounted it under my panel in the left corner where I
can easily reach it.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
200 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Taylor" <mtaylo17(at)msn.com>
Subject: RV-List: Alternate Static Valve
>
> Listers,
>
> Does anybody know where I can get me one off these? I've searched high and
> low on the web and found not a lot. There was one hit to Safair, but
> they're
> 'coming soon'. I'd like something like the type found in Cessnas where you
> can pull the big red knob.
>
> Thanks for anybody's help!
>
> Mark.
> www.4sierratango.com
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com> |
A big thanks to all of you guys for your input, couldn't have done it
without your help.
We found the problem yesterday and N327W was purring like a kitten. It
seems that there was a bad connection at one of the BNC connectors causing
only two cylinders to fire on the EI. Made up a new connection, put the
timing light on it for a final tweeking AND she sounds like a real airplane
now!!! :)
Thanks again guys for all of your tips.
Vince
So close I can taste it now.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JhnstnIII(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Alternate Static Valve |
Listers,
Does anybody know where I can get me one off these? I've searched high and
low on the web and found not a lot. There was one hit to Safair, but they're
'coming soon'. I'd like something like the type found in Cessnas where you
can pull the big red knob.
Thanks for anybody's help!
Mark.
www.4sierratango.com
Mark--We used a fuel valve from Aircraft Spruce--page 160, part no. FFV04,
and mounted it on our panel. It has passed a static system check without
leaking. --LeRoy Johnston and Dave White, Ohio, RV-6 finishing.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Schreck" <ronschreck(at)alltel.net> |
Clear DayListers,
I would like to lay out some of the details of my trim paint scheme on top of the
silver base coat that is already finished. What sort of marker do the pro's
use to lay out the details prior to masking? I know grease pencil is out.
What about chalk or soapstone?
Ron "up to my eyeballs in Imron" Schreck
RV-8
Gold Hill Airpark, NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson(at)consolidated.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Memory Card GX-50 |
Jeff Dowling wrote:
>
>Cant you put the card in a PCMCIA slot? I heard you can find free downloads
>that way.
>
>Shemp/Jeff Dowling
>RV-6A, N915JD
>200 hours
>Chicago/Louisville
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "jacklockamy" <jacklockamy(at)verizon.net>
>To: "RV List"
>Subject: RV-List: Memory Card GX-50
>
>
>
>
>>
>>Anyone know of a USB memory card reader/writer that will work with the
>>flash card in a Garmin (aka. Apollo) GX-60? Jeppesen has one but they
>>want a 'whopping $150 plus shipping" for what should be a $10 item....
>>I'm having trouble swallowing that kind of expense.
>>
>>Any suggestions would be appreciated. I've seen 12-in-1 USB flash card
>>reader/writers advertized for about $10 bucks on E-Bay, but don't know if
>>they are compatible with the Jeppesen databases/GX-50 flash cards.
>>
>>Thanks in advance,
>>Jack Lockamy
>>Camarillo, CA
>>RV-7A flying (N174JL)
>>www.jacklockamy.com
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
tell us more
Phil in Illinois
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Questions: bending the skin and torquing the rod ends |
Michael: The way I did it was to bend the skin until it closed on the
ribs with no tension. That way you will avoid the bulging skin at the trailing
edge that you sometimes see. As far as torquing the jam nuts on the rod end
bearings, You'll kinda have to use your head, i.e. tight but don't strip the
nut. BTW, I had to adjust mine quite a bit from the plans to get full rudder
travel without interference with the vertical stab skin overhang.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton CA
RV6, N16CX, 90 hours since 11-17-04
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Trim Painting |
Ron,
Thin masking tape works well. The Vinyl stuff does not leave residue.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Schreck" <ronschreck(at)alltel.net>
Subject: RV-List: Trim Painting
>
> Clear DayListers,
>
> I would like to lay out some of the details of my trim paint scheme on top
> of the silver base coat that is already finished. What sort of marker do
> the pro's use to lay out the details prior to masking? I know grease
> pencil is out. What about chalk or soapstone?
>
> Ron "up to my eyeballs in Imron" Schreck
> RV-8
> Gold Hill Airpark, NC
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Trim Painting |
The pro's I've seen do it by ruler and eyeball. Kind of scary.
Personally, I used a multi step process:
1) Designed the patterns in autocad.
2) Printed to actual size.
3) Taped the printouts to a piece of vinyl masking material.
4) Cut along the dotted line.
5) Applied mask to airplane.
6) shot paint.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Schreck" <ronschreck(at)alltel.net>
Subject: RV-List: Trim Painting
>
> Clear DayListers,
>
> I would like to lay out some of the details of my trim paint scheme on top
> of the silver base coat that is already finished. What sort of marker do
> the pro's use to lay out the details prior to masking? I know grease
> pencil is out. What about chalk or soapstone?
>
> Ron "up to my eyeballs in Imron" Schreck
> RV-8
> Gold Hill Airpark, NC
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duane Bentley" <dbentley(at)fuse.net> |
| Subject: | Safetying AFP Split Ring - Follow up |
I=92m late getting to e-mail, but thought I would add a note of experience
to this string. I have a RV6 with the AFP Fuel Injection system; been
flying it for over a year. Make sure you follow the one line at the end
of the AFP installation instructions that suggests adding thread lock to
the split ring Allen head bolt. It can (will) come loose otherwise.
I was at 4000 feet with a first time flyer / passenger. I probably had
around 60 - 70 hours on the plane at the time. I had found the AFP box
slipped down on the induction tube, by about 1/16=94 from the fully
installed position at an inspection some months before, but other than
loosening and reinstalling, did not think anything further. Back at
4000 ft - the engine coughed, lost power, and while I was changing fuel
tanks, turning the fuel pump on and pushing up mixture and prop, partial
power returned. My passenger asked if this response was normal, and I
said there was something I needed to investigate. He also decided
simultaneously that he needed to go to the bathroom.
Descent to the field was normal, with what seemed like an unusually rich
mixture setting that I leaned out. With less airspeed than normal for
the power setting on downwind and final, I landed normally. After
landing, I needed to lean the mixture to overcome the roughness while I
taxied in.
While climbing under the cowl to remove the aft cowl pins, I found the
AFP box sitting on the cowl bottom, on top of the exhaust pipes. That
explained the blockage to the cowl vent air, and higher oil temp than
normal after the event. After pulling the cowling, I found the AFP
airbox to be still slightly tight to the induction fitting when I
re-checked installation, but not so tight that it couldn=92t vibrate off,
apparently. The box must have dropped down, momentarily blocker the
intake, and then onto the cowl floor. That left a pretty poor induction
system, hence too much fuel to air.
I cleaned all the AFP FAB box and associated parts. Nothing was
missing. I inspected both mating surfaces and reinstalled the unit.
The Van=92s Service Bulletin for the bottom flapper door had also worked.
I could see the imprint of the door edge of the split ring where it
slapped open when the intake was off center and blocked. I torqued all
the bolts and put thread lock on the =BC=94 split ring bolt, let it set up a
cure, and then tried to mechanically get it to come off, without
breaking anything. It seemed tight and unmovable. I rechecked after
the next several flights.
That was 4 =96 6 months ago, I=92ve had the cowl off several times since for
inspection, and the AFP has not moved.
Duane Bentley
RV6 N515DB
West Chester, OH
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FOR SALE: Turn Coordinator |
| From: | smoothweasel(at)juno.com |
Yeh sorry......its sold
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | West systems epoxy |
A friend who is building a Varieze told me that he has seen West Systems
epoxy go soft sitting in the arizona sun. Admittedly this was in model
planes where the lay-ups are very thin. I've used West Systems for some
fairings so far. I had the impression a lot of builders use it.
Has any one who has used it on a plane that's been flying for a while
noticed any problems with it softening in hot weather?
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, Cowling.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
| Subject: | West systems epoxy |
All resin systems (vinylester or epoxy) have what's called a T-sub-g
(Tg) value. This is a temperature at which, after full cure, they start
to soften. You should check the manufactures specification sheet, it
will give this Tg temperature. This is also the major reason that most
all glass planes are painted white.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Installation Manual - Garmin 250XL |
Planning my electrical/avionics installation and can't seem to find a
downloadable manual for the 250XL. Went to the Garmin site but can't locate anything
but user manuals. Great, but I'd sure like more than instructions on how to
operate.......
Any help much appreciated.
Thanks
Carl Raichle
RV-9A Wiring and waiting for engine
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Installation Manual - Garmin 250XL |
| From: | "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net> |
OK This one took some doing. You want the installation manual.
There is a post from me on this list which gives instruction on exactly
how to find any Garmin manual you would like to own. It is message #
124785. Now using that technique described in that message usually works
very well. But in this case, since the GNC250XL is the same rough model
as 150 series, the manual is stored as
http://www.garmin.com/manuals/156_InstallationManual.pdf . Funny thing
is that I only figured this out through a google search of "gnc250xl
installation Manual pdf"
That google brought me to the Taiwanese site with the correct file
download. So..... There you have it. A little slewthing around and
Goggle grabbed it for me.
BTW, I have ended up on this site before so I suspect garmin has not set
the exclude list for this location for the crawlers. SSHHHH!!!!!!
Enjoy
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of CarlRai(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Installation Manual - Garmin 250XL
Planning my electrical/avionics installation and can't seem to find a
downloadable manual for the 250XL. Went to the Garmin site but can't
locate anything
but user manuals. Great, but I'd sure like more than instructions on
how to
operate.......
Any help much appreciated.
Thanks
Carl Raichle
RV-9A Wiring and waiting for engine
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR" <Fred.Stucklen(at)UTCFuelCells.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Memory Card GX-50 |
0.11 HTML_TAG_EXIST_TBODY BODY: HTML has "tbody" tag
Jeff,
Unfortunately, the memory cards that UPS AT used are not the
"intelligent" type. They are just dumb memory - no internal controller like
the USB or Smart Card have in them. They are expensive because they are not
produced in volume like the "Smart" memory cards. They require a special
programmer to program them (about $300, but you still need access to the
proper updated database, or another up-to-date memory card...). The last
time I priced one it was over $200.00, so your $150 price is a deal.....
If the data bases were so easily copied, it would be done all the
time.....
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV
400 Hrs
2'D offender!
From: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" < sisson(at)consolidated.net
>
Subject: Re: Memory Card GX-50
Club" < sisson(at)consolidated.net >
Jeff Dowling wrote:
shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net >
>
>Cant you put the card in a PCMCIA slot? I heard you can find free
downloads
>that way.
>
>Shemp/Jeff Dowling
>RV-6A, N915JD
>200 hours
>Chicago/Louisville
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "jacklockamy" < jacklockamy(at)verizon.net
>
>To: "RV List" < rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>Subject: RV-List: Memory Card GX-50
>
>
>
>
jacklockamy(at)verizon.net >
>>
>>Anyone know of a USB memory card reader/writer that will work with
the
>>flash card in a Garmin (aka. Apollo) GX-60? Jeppesen has one but
they
>>want a 'whopping $150 plus shipping" for what should be a $10
item....
>>I'm having trouble swallowing that kind of expense.
>>
>>Any suggestions would be appreciated. I've seen 12-in-1 USB flash
card
>>reader/writers advertized for about $10 bucks on E-Bay, but don't
know if
>>they are compatible with the Jeppesen databases/GX-50 flash cards.
>>
>>Thanks in advance,
>>Jack Lockamy
>>Camarillo, CA
>>RV-7A flying (N174JL)
>>www.jacklockamy.com
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
tell us more
Phil in Illinois
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Brown" <romott(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | West systems epoxy |
Tad,
You can bake the part and raise the Tg. West epoxy is pretty much the same
as other common epoxies in this regard.
Support the part while baking it to 200 degrees. I just laid up spark plug
access hatches using West on my Velocity's IO360. They work fine - no
sagging.
And on composite aircraft, for structural systems (like foam wings), the
aircraft is indeed painted white. But on non structural parts, darker
colors are fine. The foam is subject to soften at around 160 degrees - the
epoxy will stand higher temps.
Ronnie
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Installation Manual - Garmin 250XL |
| From: | "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net> |
Oh Carl,
I may have screwed up. I just noticed you wanted to know how to OPERATE,
not install. My Bad.
In that case the post I referenced earlier for message # 124785 in the
rv-list gives you the exact filename of what you are looking for.
http://www.garmin.com/manuals/GNC250XL_PilotsGuide.pdf
Or perhaps you would like the
http://www.garmin.com/manuals/GNC250XL_ApprovedFlightManualSupplement.pd
f
Or
http://www.garmin.com/manuals/GNC250GPS_COMM_PilotsGuide.pdf
or
http://www.garmin.com/manuals/156_InstallationManual.pdf
BTW the tw site is here
http://www.garmin.com.tw/products/gnc250xl/manual.html
Check the archives and you will be very surprised what you will find.
Now you have everything you ever wanted to know about the unit in these
files and I am getting very good at this Garmin Manual Stuff:)
Best
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of CarlRai(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Installation Manual - Garmin 250XL
Planning my electrical/avionics installation and can't seem to find a
downloadable manual for the 250XL. Went to the Garmin site but can't
locate anything
but user manuals. Great, but I'd sure like more than instructions on
how to
operate.......
Any help much appreciated.
Thanks
Carl Raichle
RV-9A Wiring and waiting for engine
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patty Gillies" <PGILLIES(at)gwm.sc.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Filler durability |
Dave,
I spray all my rivet lines with Sherwin Williams sanding primer. Then
sanded and did it again and again. It made a big difference in how the
paint flowed into the rivet areas, no gaps.
Patty
RV-6 Flying SC
>>> dreel(at)cox.net 6/3/2005 12:23:22 PM >>>
I'd like to hear from anyone with experience of the durability of
filler on aluminum. The Imron paint my painter wants to use won't cover
the small gap between rivet head and dimpled skin reliably so we intend
to fill the rivets before painting. The plane will be yellow and stored
outside so I'm anticipating a pretty severe shrink/expand movement in
the aluminum. The documents I've seen don't address the coefficient of
expansion of the filler relative to aluminum or the strength of the bond
so I'm hoping your experiences, good and bad, can shed some light to
help us pick a good filler that won't crack around the rivets.
We're considering All-Metal, Superfil, Aeropoxy light, Everglass,
Feather Fill, Sterling Primer/filler, and Dynalite.
Dave Reel - RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
I registered my RV-6A in April and yesterday I got a letter from the Colorado
Department of Revenue. They noticed that I had registered an aircraft with
the FAA and they wanted to share in the fun. I called and talked about the
situation with the fellow in the "Fair Share Section" (seriously!) and thought
I
would pass along what I learned.
A plane built from a kit that was purchased after 1992 is tax exempt in
Colorado. If I send him paperwork showing that I purchased the kit after that
date
and state that I built it, there is no tax. Tax will apply for any future
sale of the completed aircraft. Of course, none of this is confirmed as I am
still on their radar, but I am hopeful.
Ain't it great to live in Colorado!!
Rick Grenwis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht(at)yahoo.com> |
Oh how I would love a similar law in WI! I doubt I'm going to be so
lucky in this, the 2nd most highly-taxed state in the union.
Grenwis(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>I registered my RV-6A in April and yesterday I got a letter from the Colorado
>Department of Revenue. They noticed that I had registered an aircraft with
>the FAA and they wanted to share in the fun. I called and talked about the
>situation with the fellow in the "Fair Share Section" (seriously!) and thought
I
>would pass along what I learned.
>
>A plane built from a kit that was purchased after 1992 is tax exempt in
>Colorado. If I send him paperwork showing that I purchased the kit after that
date
>and state that I built it, there is no tax. Tax will apply for any future
>sale of the completed aircraft. Of course, none of this is confirmed as I am
>still on their radar, but I am hopeful.
>
>Ain't it great to live in Colorado!!
>
>Rick Grenwis
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com> |
| Subject: | U-813D Allen Screw rubbing tire warning |
0.00 HTML_NONELEMENT_00_10 BODY: 0% to 10% of HTML elements are non-standard
I was attaching the U-813D forward nose wheel pant brackets last night on
the WD-630 nose wheel weldment and noticed that the allen screw came within
.032" of actually rubbing on the tire! I emailed Van's and they said to
stick a couple more washers on it or grind down the screw.
Just something to watch for... a blown tire could lead to bad things
happening.
Matthew Brandes,
Van's RV-9A (Engine/Electrical/Fiberglass)
#90569
<http://www.n523rv.com/> http://www.n523rv.com
EAA Chapter 1329 President
EAA Chapter 868 Web Editor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "james frierson" <tn3639(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Oil level / temp |
I have a O-320 in a 6A and the dip stick has 8qt on the end. I usually fill
it with 9qts, including filter, at each oil change. This brings it right to
the 8qt line. I have noticed that when the oil level gets below 6-1/2qt the
oil temp starts to rise. I normally see 190 deg in cruise with =>7qts but it
will climb to around 230 as the level falls.
Just some food for thought for those working on oil temp problems.
Scott
N162RV
Flying 120hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Fasching" <N1CXO320(at)peoplepc.com> |
You don't have to sweat it out...the law IS that there is no tax on aircraft
parts in Colorado...a remnant from the state's attempt to lure United
Airline's overhaul base here some years ago....yet every so often the
revenue dept does try to collect on a kit-built plane when it is
registered...they back off easily enough, and its probably due to someone in
the dept. that doesn't know the exemption.
John at Salida, CO
----- Original Message -----
From: <Grenwis(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: state taxes
>
> I registered my RV-6A in April and yesterday I got a letter from the
> Colorado
> Department of Revenue. They noticed that I had registered an aircraft
> with
> the FAA and they wanted to share in the fun. I called and talked about
> the
> situation with the fellow in the "Fair Share Section" (seriously!) and
> thought I
> would pass along what I learned.
>
> A plane built from a kit that was purchased after 1992 is tax exempt in
> Colorado. If I send him paperwork showing that I purchased the kit after
> that date
> and state that I built it, there is no tax. Tax will apply for any future
> sale of the completed aircraft. Of course, none of this is confirmed as I
> am
> still on their radar, but I am hopeful.
>
> Ain't it great to live in Colorado!!
>
> Rick Grenwis
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Burns" <burnsm(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Prime platenuts? |
The K1000 nutplates are coated with a dry moly lube from the manufacturer.
I'm not sure how it's applied, but appears to be baked on.
It's pretty good stuff. Its real purpose (I think) is to protect them from
rusting during storage and shipment.
I did brush a little primer on the nutplates in my empennage, but I'm not
sure it was needed.
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of MLWynn(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Prime platenuts?
Hi all,
I am about to assemble my rudder. The large nutplates that carry the rod
ends look to be made of a malleable steel. Should they primed? If so, how
do
you prep the surface?
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV-8, Empennage
San Ramon, California
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Fw: Wheel fairings installation |
----- Original Message -----
From: <dwensing(at)aol.com>
Subject: Fwd: Wheel fairings installation
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: DWENSING
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Wheel fairings installation
>
> RV-6A/7A builders...........
> Preparing to install the wheel fairings on my flying RV-6A. Now
> learned that the procedure requires leveling the airplane on jacks. I
> should have done it back when the fuse was leveled for drilling the
> wings rear spars. Current builders take note!!
>
> Have been thinking about a way to not have to put the airplane back on
> jacks. Especially to get it exactly level with the wheels just touching
> the floor.
> Would like comments on an idea:
> Have considered using a "Smart Level" to duplicate the angle of the
> fuselage deck to get the correct front/ back angle on the wheel fairing
> while the airplane is setting on the gear. The in/out angle would be
> determined by aligning the wheel fairing with the tread on the tire. Is
> there a fatal flaw in this approach? Has anybody done something like
> this? Or, have another idea to avoid the need to level it on jacks?
> Dale Ensing
> RV6A N118DE
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil level / temp |
How do you know that 8 qts on the dipstick is 8 qts? It is a good idea
to calibrate your dipstick. Start with an empty engine, put 6 qts in,
let it settle and stick the dipstick in. Use a tube cutter to score a
line where the actual 6 qt line is. On my engine it was off by a full
quart on the low side. This is not surprising, due to differences in
the angle of the sump on different airplanes.
9 qts into an O-320 seems like an awful lot of oil.
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee WI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil level / temp |
Jeff,
A new or newly overhauled engine will require one extra quart of oil
during it's initial fill. This is because the internal surfaces of the
engine are completely dry. When you drain the oil and filter during oil
changes, this quart of oil does not drain out. It clings to all the
internal surfaces of the engine.
It is best to calibrate your dip stick during your first oil change, NOT
during the initial filling of the engine. Don't take my word for it. Ask
any professional automotive or aircraft engine re-builder.
The 8 quart oil level is an artificial level. It is required to meet an
FAA requirement. (Time that the engine would maintain oil pressure with a
calibrated oil leak) Lycoming 4 cylinder engines consume more oil when they
are filled up to the 8 quart level. This is because they are actually "over
filled" at that point. Fill to 6 quarts and your oil consumption will drop
down noticeably.
Charlie Kuss
>
>How do you know that 8 qts on the dipstick is 8 qts? It is a good idea
>to calibrate your dipstick. Start with an empty engine, put 6 qts in,
>let it settle and stick the dipstick in. Use a tube cutter to score a
>line where the actual 6 qt line is. On my engine it was off by a full
>quart on the low side. This is not surprising, due to differences in
>the angle of the sump on different airplanes.
>
>9 qts into an O-320 seems like an awful lot of oil.
>
>Jeff Point
>RV-6
>Milwaukee WI
>
>
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil level / temp |
Scott:
Sorry I don't have a definitive answer, but I can add a few data points from my
experience and research on the subject.
First 8 qts is MAX capacity and 4 qts is min. 6 qts is the best level to reduce
oil use. You should have no dramatic oil temp rise with oil quantity. BTW 2 qts
are unusable.
My O-320 used maybe a little over 1qt. between 25 hour oil changes, about 1qt in
16 hr. I always kept it right at 6qts +/- 0.25qt. Never had a problem with oil
temp. The same worked for my O-360. O-320's tend to run cooler than a O-360
.
It is commonly known oil quantities above 6 to 6.5 qts cause the excess to blow
off quickly until it returning to 6qts.
Less commonly known is Lycoming tankers extra oil around as a reserve oil capacity.
This extra sump oil is either regulatory for engine certification or a throw
back to the round engine days and oil tanks. Bottom line is you don't need
8 qts for an engine that is certified for 4 qts min. 6 qts is plenty. On a long
cross country put as much as 6.5 qts, but never more. The result was I had
very low oil use +16 hours per qt.
The 9 qts added to read 8qts could be in part for the oil to fill the new filter.
Are filling with 9 qts after draining and reading 8 qts before restarting.
That also sounds odd.
I calibrated my sump by draining it completely and refilling with 6 qts. Allowing
the oil to settle I checked and marked the dip stick for 6qts (with a small
pipe cutter to score a line). The factory 8qt mark was accurate.
You should do no harm to you engine running at 6-6.5 qts. The drastic temp rise
with oil levels below 8 qts sounds odd and can't explain. Are in the break-in
period? Check the accuracy of the oil gage?
You might expect a small increase in oil temp with quantity, but frankly going
from 190F to 230F is excessive.
The ideal oil temp is 190F and not more than 210F max typically. 230F oil temp
is too much. The absolute max oil inlet temp is 245F. Oil is 20F hotter in the
engine than the inlet temp. So if you are reading 230F your oil is at 250F in
the engine.
Check your oil dip stick and oil temp gage calabration. If you have 230F oil temp
in level flight oil level or not that is too much.
Take Care George
I have a O-320 in a 6A and the dip stick has 8qt on the end. I usually fill
it with 9qts, including filter, at each oil change. This brings it right
to
the 8qt line. I have noticed that when the oil level gets below 6-1/2qt the
oil temp starts to rise. I normally see 190 deg in cruise with =>7qts but
it
will climb to around 230 as the level falls.
Just some food for thought for those working on oil temp problems.
Scott
N162RV
Flying 120hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil level / temp |
Good point about residual oil in the engine. I did the dipstick
calibration on my second or third oil change (I forget exactly) and it
was still a full quart low on the dipstick. FWIW I keep the level
between 6 and 7 qts (as measured on the calibrated dipstick) and
consumption is 1 qt per 12 hours, give ot take.
One point about calibrating the dipstick- when you add the six quarts,
don't run the engine or turn the prop or anything else before you do the
calibration. Just let the oil settle for a while. You are measuring
the oil level in the sump, not the total amount of oil in the engine.
After you calibrate the dipstick, and run the engine, you will need to
add some more oil to get the sump level up to 6 qts, because of the oil
now trapped in the filter, hoses, stuck to the guts, etc.
Jeff Point
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
Regarding West epoxy, I built my plenum cover using West epoxy. It does
soften a little when hot, but it seems to have no real effect on how it
works here. And I'll vouch, it does get HOT above that engine after
shutdown. I can see no degradation so far.
I certainly wouldn't get to concerned about the exterior fairings made
with it. I doubt that sunlight would ever get exterior parts anywhere
near as hot as the plenum gets.
Vince
F-1H Rocket, 50 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV7/7A and 9/9A fuselage video now available |
We are happy to announce the 7/9 fuselage video is now available. Check it out at our webpage www.fly-gbi.com under the videos link!
Becki Orndorff
GeoBeck, Inc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Wheel fairings installation |
I did this leveling process using an engine hoist, strapping it to the
engine mount and lifting the front wheels off the ground. I have a
taildragger. However, should not be too difficult if you have a nose
wheeler if you have something you can lift the front up with. An overhead
garage joist should work as well. The engine mount worked well for me.
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip Up It Flies
"The American Republic will endure until the day Congress discovers
that it can bribe the public with the public's own money."
Alexis de Toqueville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: Fw: Wheel fairings installation
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <dwensing(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Subject: Fwd: Wheel fairings installation
>
>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: DWENSING
>> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Wheel fairings installation
>>
>> RV-6A/7A builders...........
>> Preparing to install the wheel fairings on my flying RV-6A. Now
>> learned that the procedure requires leveling the airplane on jacks. I
>> should have done it back when the fuse was leveled for drilling the
>> wings rear spars. Current builders take note!!
>>
>> Have been thinking about a way to not have to put the airplane back on
>> jacks. Especially to get it exactly level with the wheels just touching
>> the floor.
>> Would like comments on an idea:
>> Have considered using a "Smart Level" to duplicate the angle of the
>> fuselage deck to get the correct front/ back angle on the wheel fairing
>> while the airplane is setting on the gear. The in/out angle would be
>> determined by aligning the wheel fairing with the tread on the tire. Is
>> there a fatal flaw in this approach? Has anybody done something like
>> this? Or, have another idea to avoid the need to level it on jacks?
>> Dale Ensing
>> RV6A N118DE
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Leach" <papadaddyo(at)verizon.net> |
I know I asked earlier about mixing primer and now that I am really
ready to do some priming I have a question for the veterans. I have
alumiprep 33 as well as MEK. My plan was to use the alumiprep and then
akzo 2 part epoxy for the primer. I know that many use alodine. I know
this is good and it looks cool but is it necessary to use both or will
the akzo be enough. I live in Florida and well, you know the weather.
Rick
40397
N512RM - reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
Hi Rick,
I was told by my paint supplier and I also read it in my Vans manual, circa
1996.
In that humid climate I would definitely use the alodine. The claim is that
alodine treatment adds some degree of protection against Filform (sp)
corrosion.
"Filform" corrosion invades at edges or scratches and creeps under whatever
protective coating, primer, paint or sealant is in place. Once it gets a
good hold skin ,rib or part replacement is usually the only recourse.
Ok everybody let the primer wars begin.{[;-)
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Leach" <papadaddyo(at)verizon.net>
Subject: RV-List: Priming
>
> I know I asked earlier about mixing primer and now that I am really
> ready to do some priming I have a question for the veterans. I have
> alumiprep 33 as well as MEK. My plan was to use the alumiprep and then
> akzo 2 part epoxy for the primer. I know that many use alodine. I know
> this is good and it looks cool but is it necessary to use both or will
> the akzo be enough. I live in Florida and well, you know the weather.
>
> Rick
> 40397
> N512RM - reserved
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Wheel fairings installation |
Dale, I used the engine hoist method on my 6-A .....worked great!
Tom in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fw: Wheel fairings installation
>
> I did this leveling process using an engine hoist, strapping it to the
> engine mount and lifting the front wheels off the ground. I have a
> taildragger. However, should not be too difficult if you have a nose
> wheeler if you have something you can lift the front up with. An overhead
> garage joist should work as well. The engine mount worked well for me.
>
> Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip Up It Flies
>
> "The American Republic will endure until the day Congress discovers
> that it can bribe the public with the public's own money."
>
> Alexis de Toqueville
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Fw: Wheel fairings installation
>
>
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: <dwensing(at)aol.com>
>> To:
>> Subject: Fwd: Wheel fairings installation
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: DWENSING
>>> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>> Subject: Wheel fairings installation
>>>
>>> RV-6A/7A builders...........
>>> Preparing to install the wheel fairings on my flying RV-6A. Now
>>> learned that the procedure requires leveling the airplane on jacks. I
>>> should have done it back when the fuse was leveled for drilling the
>>> wings rear spars. Current builders take note!!
>>>
>>> Have been thinking about a way to not have to put the airplane back on
>>> jacks. Especially to get it exactly level with the wheels just touching
>>> the floor.
>>> Would like comments on an idea:
>>> Have considered using a "Smart Level" to duplicate the angle of the
>>> fuselage deck to get the correct front/ back angle on the wheel fairing
>>> while the airplane is setting on the gear. The in/out angle would be
>>> determined by aligning the wheel fairing with the tread on the tire. Is
>>> there a fatal flaw in this approach? Has anybody done something like
>>> this? Or, have another idea to avoid the need to level it on jacks?
>>> Dale Ensing
>>> RV6A N118DE
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net> |
Rick,
I agree with Jim. Your Mil Spec epoxy primers will stop 7 out of the 8
possible types of corrosion of aluminum. Guess which one the primer doesn't
protect against? Right, Filiform corrosion. Alodine prevents 4 types of
corrosion, including Filiform (which is the nastiest type). Alodine also
improves the adhesion of your primer and paint to the aluminum. You need to
do both to truly prevent corrosion.
Charlie Kuss
>
>Hi Rick,
>
>I was told by my paint supplier and I also read it in my Vans manual, circa
>1996.
>In that humid climate I would definitely use the alodine. The claim is that
>alodine treatment adds some degree of protection against Filform (sp)
>corrosion.
>"Filform" corrosion invades at edges or scratches and creeps under whatever
>protective coating, primer, paint or sealant is in place. Once it gets a
>good hold skin ,rib or part replacement is usually the only recourse.
>
>Ok everybody let the primer wars begin.{[;-)
>
>Jim in Kelowna
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Richard Leach" <papadaddyo(at)verizon.net>
>To: "RV list" ;
>
>Subject: RV-List: Priming
>
>
> >
> > I know I asked earlier about mixing primer and now that I am really
> > ready to do some priming I have a question for the veterans. I have
> > alumiprep 33 as well as MEK. My plan was to use the alumiprep and then
> > akzo 2 part epoxy for the primer. I know that many use alodine. I know
> > this is good and it looks cool but is it necessary to use both or will
> > the akzo be enough. I live in Florida and well, you know the weather.
> >
> > Rick
> > 40397
> > N512RM - reserved
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Black Liquid glue/sealer |
Hi,
I'm looking for something that may not exist, but
thought I'd check here. I need a sealer or glue
that will flow pretty well when wet, but will
dry kind of like hard rubber. My fallback is
to mix up some epoxy and try to put some pigment
in it, but I'd prefer it if the result had just
a bit of flexibility. Does anyone know if such a
product exists, and where I can buy it?
Thanks,
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Black Liquid glue/sealer |
| From: | "Glaeser, Dennis A" <dennis.glaeser(at)eds.com> |
Mickey,
My suggestions would be:
Proseal
Sikaflex (spelling? - the stuff for glueing canopies) - may be
too hard?
RTV (not hard enough?)
What are you trying to glue/seal? (Only tell me if you don't have to
kill me :-)
Dennis Glaeser
RV7A Empennage
----------------------
Hi, I'm looking for something that may not exist, but thought I'd check
here. I need a sealer or glue that will flow pretty well when wet, but
will dry kind of like hard rubber. My fallback is to mix up some epoxy
and try to put some pigment in it, but I'd prefer it if the result had
just a bit of flexibility. Does anyone know if such a product exists,
and where I can buy it?
Thanks, Mickey
---------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | Black Liquid glue/sealer |
Have you considered thinning some fuel tank sealant?
Terry
Hi,
I'm looking for something that may not exist, but
thought I'd check here. I need a sealer or glue
that will flow pretty well when wet, but will
dry kind of like hard rubber. My fallback is
to mix up some epoxy and try to put some pigment
in it, but I'd prefer it if the result had just
a bit of flexibility. Does anyone know if such a
product exists, and where I can buy it?
Thanks,
Mickey
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)warpdriveonline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Black Liquid glue/sealer |
Sure sounds a lot like Proseal and the equivalents. Widely available.
>
> Hi,
>
> I'm looking for something that may not exist, but
> thought I'd check here. I need a sealer or glue
> that will flow pretty well when wet, but will
> dry kind of like hard rubber.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://n5lp.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry(at)mc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Black Liquid glue/sealer |
What do you want to accomplish Mickey? You'll get more offers of help with
that info laid on the list ...
Jerry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Black Liquid glue/sealer
>
> Have you considered thinning some fuel tank sealant?
>
> Terry
>
>
> Hi,
>
> I'm looking for something that may not exist, but
> thought I'd check here. I need a sealer or glue
> that will flow pretty well when wet, but will
> dry kind of like hard rubber. My fallback is
> to mix up some epoxy and try to put some pigment
> in it, but I'd prefer it if the result had just
> a bit of flexibility. Does anyone know if such a
> product exists, and where I can buy it?
>
> Thanks,
> Mickey
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sportav8r(at)aol.com |
My p-mags are filed in the system! (UPS's system, that is)... when they arrive
and I have a chance to bolt 'em on, I'll follow with a progress report.
I've been waiting on these since February, but hopefully this will be worth the
wait.
-Stormy
replacing dual Slicks at ~510 hrs TT.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: Black Liquid glue/sealer |
Hi Terry,
That's a good idea, and is another possibility. I think
that would be better than using something like West System
epoxy, since it would be more flexible. Of course, if I
can find it in black it would better!
Mickey
Terry Watson wrote:
>
> Have you considered thinning some fuel tank sealant?
>
> Terry
>
>
>
> Hi,
>
> I'm looking for something that may not exist, but
> thought I'd check here. I need a sealer or glue
> that will flow pretty well when wet, but will
> dry kind of like hard rubber. My fallback is
> to mix up some epoxy and try to put some pigment
> in it, but I'd prefer it if the result had just
> a bit of flexibility. Does anyone know if such a
> product exists, and where I can buy it?
>
> Thanks,
> Mickey
>
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Black Liquid glue/sealer |
In a message dated 6/16/05 10:59:03 AM Central Daylight Time,
mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch writes:
> I need a sealer or glue
> that will flow pretty well when wet, but will
> dry kind of like hard rubber.
>>>>
Might want to look at Loctite 380, Black Max instant adhesive. see:
http://www.mcmaster.com/
Type " 3173 " in the "Find" window in the left-hand column to load that page
#. What's the application?
Mark Phillips
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: Black Liquid glue/sealer |
Hi Jerry,
OK, I'll come clean. Here's a photo:
http://rv8.ch/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=photos&id=DSC03025
I'm trying to fill in the gap between the canopy and the side
rail. I've already glued it nicely with Sikaflex, but I didn't
make the fillet very smooth. Now I'm looking for a way to
fix this, otherwise I'll be constantly looking at some funky
Sikaflex while sitting in my cockpit making airplane noises.
Thanks for any hints!
Mickey
Jerry Grimmonpre wrote:
>
> What do you want to accomplish Mickey? You'll get more offers of help with
> that info laid on the list ...
> Jerry
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com>
> To:
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Black Liquid glue/sealer
>
>
>
>>
>>Have you considered thinning some fuel tank sealant?
>>
>>Terry
>>
>>
>>
>>Hi,
>>
>>I'm looking for something that may not exist, but
>>thought I'd check here. I need a sealer or glue
>>that will flow pretty well when wet, but will
>>dry kind of like hard rubber. My fallback is
>>to mix up some epoxy and try to put some pigment
>>in it, but I'd prefer it if the result had just
>>a bit of flexibility. Does anyone know if such a
>>product exists, and where I can buy it?
>>
>>Thanks,
>>Mickey
>>
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Black Liquid glue/sealer |
In a message dated 6/16/05 12:51:49 PM Central Daylight Time,
mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch writes:
> Of course, if I
> can find it in black it would better!
>>>>
I did some digging around on the Net and found some black pigment for epoxy
from a marine supply house somewhere up around NY or Conn- don't recall the
name or find the receipt, but it worked great for around the front of the canopy.
Google "epoxy tint marine" and you should be able to find it. It was
available in several colors... Worked really well.
Mark Phillips
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Geoff Evans <hellothaimassage(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | emp fairing closeup |
Does anyone have a detailed, close-up picture that shows the leading edges of
the upper (fiberglass) empennage fairing and the lower (aluminum) fairing
where they come together at the leading edge of the HS?
Mine fit pretty well, but they still need a little work. I'm trying to get an
idea of what this intersection is supposed to look like in its completed and
final state.
Thanks.
-Geoff
RV-8 QB
__________________________________
Stay connected, organized, and protected. Take the tour:
http://tour.mail.yahoo.com/mailtour.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Birkelbach <phil(at)petrasoft.net> |
| Subject: | Re: emp fairing closeup |
These are not the best close-ups but you may be able to see what I did...
http://www.myrv7.com/viewimage.php?pictureid=314
http://www.myrv7.com/viewimage.php?pictureid=315
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB - Finishing Up
http://www.myrv7.com
Geoff Evans wrote:
>
>Does anyone have a detailed, close-up picture that shows the leading edges of
>the upper (fiberglass) empennage fairing and the lower (aluminum) fairing
>where they come together at the leading edge of the HS?
>
>Mine fit pretty well, but they still need a little work. I'm trying to get an
>idea of what this intersection is supposed to look like in its completed and
>final state.
>
>Thanks.
>-Geoff
>
>RV-8 QB
>
>
>
>__________________________________
>Stay connected, organized, and protected. Take the tour:
>http://tour.mail.yahoo.com/mailtour.html
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Krueger <pndkrueg(at)mchsi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Black Liquid glue/sealer |
> I need a sealer or glue
> that will flow pretty well when wet, but will
> dry kind of like hard rubber.
The product you want is NP-1. Fantastic glue and caulk. Found at GOOD
hardware stores and building material stores. I glued my air ducts to
the fuselage with it and the pieces will tear before the NP-1 gives.
At the shop we had two small squares of alum fastened together with it
- 3/16 between pieces for testing.
The guys never did tear them apart.
Dan Krueger
RV6A flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: Black Liquid glue/sealer |
> I did some digging around on the Net and found some black pigment for epoxy
> from a marine supply house somewhere up around NY or Conn- don't recall the
> name or find the receipt, but it worked great for around the front of the canopy.
> Google "epoxy tint marine" and you should be able to find it. It was
> available in several colors... Worked really well.
Does anyone know where I can get some black proseal, in
the "Class A" (very liquid) version?
Thanks,
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Reynolds <rvreynolds(at)macs.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ignition switch |
Electrically speaking, AeroElectric Figure Z-27 shows how to wire one
and what happens when the key is turned.
Richard Reynolds
Norfolk, VA
RV-6A, N841RV
On Jun 10, 2005, at 7:07 PM, Bill VonDane wrote:
>
> does anyone have a diagram of the internal working of a keyed
> ignition switch?
>
> Thanks!
>
> -Bill
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Trotter <ptrotter(at)acm.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Black Liquid glue/sealer |
Mickey,
You can get class A ProSeal (or ChemSeal) from several distributors over
here. See my article on Tank Sealant on Doug Reeves site in the articles
section, it gives the info on a couple of distributors. However, you can
thin the class B sealant with toluene. That is all they do to make class A
sealant.. You can add up to 15% toluene by weight without changing the
properties of the sealant. I believe that Class A has about 7% toluene
added to get that consistency.
I expect that the color of the tank sealant will be more grey than the color
of your Sikaflex however. If you go the epoxy route, West System has a
graphite powder (#423) than can be used to create a black result. Epoxy
will cure much harder, with no flexibility however, which may not work as
well.
Good luck,
Paul Trotter
RV-8 82080 Fuselage Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Black Liquid glue/sealer
>
> > I did some digging around on the Net and found some black pigment for
epoxy
> > from a marine supply house somewhere up around NY or Conn- don't recall
the
> > name or find the receipt, but it worked great for around the front of
the canopy.
> > Google "epoxy tint marine" and you should be able to find it. It was
> > available in several colors... Worked really well.
>
> Does anyone know where I can get some black proseal, in
> the "Class A" (very liquid) version?
>
> Thanks,
> Mickey
>
> --
> Mickey Coggins
> http://www.rv8.ch/
> #82007 Canopy
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Wheel fairings installation |
Tom, did you lift the 6A rear fuse just in front of the empannage to get it
level? Any concerns about the weight on the front gear?
Dale Ensing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Wheel fairings installation |
Any reason why you can't determine the longeron angle when on the mains
and nose gear and then apply that same angle during the wheel pant
installation?
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Wheel fairings installation |
Dale, I used a nylon triple strap type hanger. 2 straps on the engine mount
and 1 forward to the engine hoist bracket in the center of the engine case.
This method applies very little stress to the engine case but allows for a
flying profile without propping the fuselage and possible damage......big
dent in front of the empennage.
Tom in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fw: Wheel fairings installation
>
> Tom, did you lift the 6A rear fuse just in front of the empannage to get
> it
> level? Any concerns about the weight on the front gear?
> Dale Ensing
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Wheel fairings installation |
> Any reason why you can't determine the longeron angle when on the mains
> and nose gear and then apply that same angle during the wheel pant
> installation?
Just depends on whether you care about speed & economy.
If all you care about is how it looks on the ground, and you don't mind
sacrificing "free speed," then rig 'em however's convenient to you.
To optimize low drag, you really gotta rig your wheel pants in trail with
the gear completely unloaded...simulating the in-flight condition.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (514 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Wheel fairings installation |
>To optimize low drag, you really gotta rig your wheel pants in trail with
>the gear completely unloaded...simulating the in-flight condition.
Then it sounds like you have to have ALL wheels off the ground and know
the exact angle of some point...say the longerons...when in level flight.
That means that if you know the longeron angle in level flight, you can
make the adjustment with it on the ground. Simple addition/subtraction
and making a cardboard template to adjust the angle (with use of a level).
Am I missing something here? I am just a physics dude so sometimes
things go over my head.
Ron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 6A Wheel fairings installation |
To Dan
Thanks..I do understand the need to get the main gear completely unloaded
simulating in-flight........just thought I could do that without actually
leveling the airplane by using digital level.
To Tom
How does your three way strap to the engine mount and engine get the load
off from the main gear? Did you support the rear fuse some how?
Dale Ensing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6(at)bryantechnology.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Wheel fairings installation |
Ron, You are missing something. With the wheels on the ground the gear
legs are loaded. They are not in the same position as they would be if they
were hanging free. I think that is the biggest point with getting them just
off the ground. The angles you **might ** could figure out the math.
Tim, I hated this task myself, but got it done like the others said
RV-6
-------Original Message-------
From: Ron Lee
Date: 06/17/05 05:04:01
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fw: Wheel fairings installation
>To optimize low drag, you really gotta rig your wheel pants in trail with
>the gear completely unloaded...simulating the in-flight condition.
Then it sounds like you have to have ALL wheels off the ground and know
the exact angle of some point...say the longerons...when in level flight.
That means that if you know the longeron angle in level flight, you can
make the adjustment with it on the ground. Simple addition/subtraction
and making a cardboard template to adjust the angle (with use of a level)
Am I missing something here? I am just a physics dude so sometimes
things go over my head.
Ron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Wheel fairings installation |
Ron,
Van's makes the assumption, it appears, that the top longeron is level in
flight. (Not always the case of course) That is the reason the instructions
call for leveling the plane and leveling the wheel fairings. I would like to
get the gear unloaded but not have to jack the plane all the way up to level
the top longeron. Then using the digital level match the wheel fairing to
the longeron angle. That was the original thought but I wanted other
opinions to see if maybe I was missing something.
Dale
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Wheel fairings installation |
In a message dated 6/16/05 11:56:43 PM Central Daylight Time,
densing(at)carolina.rr.com writes:
> Anybody else out there with a successful method for the trike geared?
>>>>
Hi Dale-
I really couldn't figure out what all the hype was about this procedure, but
then I'm no aerodynamacistical ingineer. As far as I can tell, what I did was
"successful" enuff. Proceed at your own risk as follows:
Plane on reasonably flat, level floor
Measure distance from wingtips to floor to make sure plane is parallel with
floor L/R
Draw accurate centerline from center of firewall past tail with chalkline &
plumblines
Draw two more lines, parallel to CL, from center of tires
Set block on top of tire to space pant, set pant on top of this
Place another support near rear of pant to hold it up
Set horizontal alignment visually to approximate pant CL to main longeron-
draw a centerline down the pant if helpful
Plumb Trailing Edge of pant to line with TE as vertical as possible
Adjust vertical alignment as necessary as viewed from front of tire
Clamp pant securely to bracket, check alignment 3 more times, then drill
holes & cleco
Repeat for other pant being careful to match horizontal alignment- get down
on floor and sight visually from both sides of plane across tops of pants to
get the 2nd to match the 1st- check 3 times and from varying distances away from
plane and when happy, drill holes. With pants clecoed to brackets, install
front of pants, roll airplane around viewing from various angles, have others
look at it & critique etc. If you're happy with it, proceed with install. I
seriously doubt 5 degrees up/down/left/right is going to make much difference
as long as they are approximately the SAME.
Maybe I just got lucky and it worked out, but plane flies no differently with
the pants on or off. What's REALLY amazing is how little speed is gained
from the pants- the leg fairings added 10-12 mph and the main pants almost nada.
Getting the leg fairings the same is likely much more critical...
My GW/50, FWIW...
Mark Phillips -6A N51PW 190 hrs, most if it with pants on (the PLANE'S!)
8-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry(at)mc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Black Liquid glue/sealer |
Mickey ...
How about finding out what will mix with the Sikaflex to create a slurry.
Something that will flash-off but will allow the slurry to become a pourable
mixture. This will be self leveling so you won't have to touch it to move
it where it needs to go. A small eye drop device will give you more control
over how much goes on and where it goes. Start by leveling the side rail.
As I recall there is a special ingredient that goes on the cured Sikaflex,
if one is to add more Sikaflex. I would let one side cure first ... then
the other. Start somewhere on the rail that doesn't show a bad result. You
may want to make a trial run on a "small mock-up". Let us know how this
experiment is pulled off so we can repeat a good result. Good luck.
Regards ...
Jerry Grimmonpre
-7A ... still building the shop
Subject: Re: RV-List: Black Liquid glue/sealer
Here's a photo:
>
> http://rv8.ch/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=photos&id=DSC03025
>
> I'm trying to fill in the gap between the canopy and the side
> rail. I've already glued it nicely with Sikaflex, but I didn't
> make the fillet very smooth. Now I'm looking for a way to
> fix this, otherwise
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 6A Wheel fairings installation |
Dale, The 3-Strape system lifts the entire aircraft off the ground just
like it is flying. My 6-A has an O-360A1A with constant speed prop so the CG
is as forward as it gets. By adjusting the lift point and locking the slide
ring on the harness you can simulate level flight.
Keep in mind I was using a false spar at this point so no added wing
weight. I plan on installing the painted wings using the same method in
July. Flying soon!!
Tom in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: 6A Wheel fairings installation
>
> To Dan
> Thanks..I do understand the need to get the main gear completely unloaded
> simulating in-flight........just thought I could do that without actually
> leveling the airplane by using digital level.
> To Tom
> How does your three way strap to the engine mount and engine get the load
> off from the main gear? Did you support the rear fuse some how?
> Dale Ensing
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel fairings installation |
Thanks Larry for the info on leveling the plane. However, on the 6a the
mains must be raised (a lot) to get the top longeron level. I had considered
using the engine hoist with a sling around the rear fuse but that puts a
lot
of the weight on the front gear. Not sure I like that.
Anybody else out there with a successful method for the trike geared?
Dale Ensing
Sorry I don't have a picture but I jacked up my RV8A by supporting most of the
weight on the wing spar box. First I made a pad from a layer of 1" foam that
will crush to even out any irregularities and prevent concentrating the load in
any one place. Taped this to 3/4" plywood and cut the length to span the entire
fuselage with cutouts for the gear legs. Should be wide enough to span the
entire spar box forward to aft. Then a 4x4 a little shorter in length so I
could put jack stands that I built from 2x12s under the lateral extremeties of
the pad, then the jack. I shimmed under the jack stands to get the fuselage
level laterally and so I could put the stands, one near each gear leg, under
the spar box before it was jacked up. This let me raise a little, shim a little
so nothing ever got too precarious. Then level the fuselage longitudinally
by pulling down the tail by the tiedown ring. No damage. I figure I lifted
900 lb supported on an area of 30"x4.5" or about 6.7 lb/sq inch on the aluminum.
This whole thing made me wish I had stuck to Van's assembly order & finished the
wheel pants before hanging the engine. The lift weight would have been maybe
400 lb less.
Dave Reel - RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wheel fairings installation |
The most useful tool/jig I built after the fuselage of my 6A was out of its construction
jig, (Yes, we had to build it in a jig in those days of slow-build),
was a very strong saw horse stand that I would prop under the floor right below
the firewall. I also built an adjustable height stand/support to go right
below the aft end of the fuselage. These stands were high enough to allow installation
of the main gear legs and level the main longerons as required by raising
or lowering the tail stand . Never needed jacks. Alignment of the main wheel
fairings using Van's string and plumb-bob method worked out fine.
Once the main gear and wheels were installed the nose gear could be installed
easily by pushing down on the tail to get the necessary clearance followed by
removing the front saw horse stand which became very useful when I used it again
to remove the original U603 leg to replace it with the beefed up design U603-2
per Van's SB-98-10-1.
I will send copies of these stands photos to "photo share" shortly
Cheers! Henry Hore---C-GELS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Wheel fairings installation |
> Sorry, I must be really dense today but I am failing to see how it is
> possible to pick up the whole airplane by the engine mount and the engine
> lift ring as you described. The CG of the airplane is well behind the
> firewall. Remember, this is a completed flying airplane.
> What am I missing?
Sawhorse under the tail, shim it until the longerons are level.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephanie Marshall" <smarshall(at)enid.org> |
Hey everyone,
Baron's check-ride is finally over so we got some building done FINALLY.
We have the hole H-Stab almost all the way done!
Cheers,
Stephanie
www.rv-8a.4t.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leland <federigo(at)pacbell.net> |
I am about to buy an ICOM handheld NAV/COM. Can anybody on this list
tell me if the A24 is worth $100 more than the A23? I'll use this radio
as a backup for my single panel-mounted transceiver.
Leland
Awaiting the FAA inspection on an RV9A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cory Emberson" <bootless(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Dan Checkoway's First Article in Kitplanes Magazine |
Hi Dan and all...
Just got my new (August) copy of Kitplanes magazine, and lo and behold,
there's the first in a series by Dan Checkoway ("Made in Metal" - Build Your
Skills series)! Way to go, Dan!
best, Cory
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dan Checkoway's First Article in Kitplanes Magazine |
I renewed my long lapsed subscription for only that reason...
Thanks Dan.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cory Emberson" <bootless(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Dan Checkoway's First Article in Kitplanes Magazine
>
> Hi Dan and all...
>
> Just got my new (August) copy of Kitplanes magazine, and lo and behold,
> there's the first in a series by Dan Checkoway ("Made in Metal" - Build
Your
> Skills series)! Way to go, Dan!
>
> best, Cory
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "steven dinieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Black Liquid glue/sealer |
We use a product in our fab shop all the time. Its a pretty thin two
part urethane repair kit used to repair the flexible urethane bumpers on
our modern vehicles. The brand probably isn't important but I'd visit
your local autobody paint supply store. The stuff makes an awesome
flexible adhesive that sets in 15 minutes. If you have trouble getting
more info locally drop me a note..
Steve dinieri
N221rv N231rv
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mickey Coggins
Subject: RV-List: Black Liquid glue/sealer
Hi,
I'm looking for something that may not exist, but
thought I'd check here. I need a sealer or glue
that will flow pretty well when wet, but will
dry kind of like hard rubber. My fallback is
to mix up some epoxy and try to put some pigment
in it, but I'd prefer it if the result had just
a bit of flexibility. Does anyone know if such a
product exists, and where I can buy it?
Thanks,
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EMAproducts(at)aol.com |
Just as there are RV's, Glasairs, Lancairs and other makes of aircraft, there
is more than one manufacturer of AOA systems. Go to www.riteangle.com for
information on the fully versatile system, On all production Fire Boss Borate
bombers. We've been in business making AOA's since '95. Come by and visit at
Arlington & AirVenture, see how it works, discuss how to save a couple hundred
$! A fully operational system which corrects for up to 6 flap positions. We
are across from Van's display @ Arlington displaying with Evergreen Aircraft
Services. I'm giving several Forums @ Arlington, one @ AirVenture. Elbie
Mendenhall, EM Aviation, LLC
I have yet to find someone who planned on an accident!
paulfolbrecht(at)yahoo.com wrote:
I'm wondering if an AOA indicator is something I'm really going to want or
not.
My thoughts are that $800 is a bit of a large chunk of change for this
functionality. I have not ever felt a problem flying by ASI and feel - never
relied on a spam-can stall-horn to keep me out of trouble anyway.
Do any of you know of any RV pilot who planned on having an accident??
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Russell" <rer51(at)netscape.ca> |
A23 is excellent as a backup NAV/Com. Used it for both on a least 2 occasions.
Randy
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Dave Rossiter ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Dave Rossiter
Lists: Rocket-List,RV-List,RV4-List,RV8-List
Subject: Dave Rossiter's F1 Rocket
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/daverossiter717@hotmail.com.06.18.2005/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Henry Hore ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Henry Hore <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Lists: RV-List,RV6-List,RV7-List,RV8-List,RV9-List
Subject: Leveling RV6-A Fuselage
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com.06.18.2005/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Who Frequents Sedona, AZ? |
Paul:
I re-read your original post after your second post that SEZ is closed at night
and I am starting to think we are talking about two different airports?
KSEZ: Sedona has runway 3 and 21. Not sure where you got: "....should land on RWY
30 and Takeoff RWY 12" ?
Also it is LEFT traffic for both runway 3 and 21.
Are we talking about the same airport KSEZ, Sedona AZ? KSEZ as I said is open 24
hours.
As far as your comment: "Everyone always comes in high and hot, and ends up slamming
on the runway. I've seen many broken wheel pants there."
Trusting altimeter for landing and broken wheel pants? I am not sure what you are
talking about, I don't look at my altimeter when landing or do any pilot I
know. Like ANY landing look at the runway and my aim point. I do the same in my
RV or B767. Here is the deal, both runways at Sedona are served by a VASI (two
lights to the left of the runway touchdown zone). As long as you have white
over red you will be fine. Fly normal approach speeds and follow the VASI, which
provides a 3.0 deg final approach at SEZ. There should be no over riding visual
illusion to make you fly high. In fact with the 75' width runway and airport
higher than surrounding surface you would tend to fly lower and flat. Again
VASI and standard pattern at standard speeds = NO BIG DEAL. Wheel pants? Not
sure why wheel pants are breaking.
"In the AFD it doesn't say it, but you should land on RWY 30 and Takeoff on RWY
12."
Paul as far as landing, land on the runway that is favored by the wind. If there
were no wind why would you want to land on 30 (guess you mean 3) and take off
on runway 12 (guess you mean 21). You will have traffic conflict. This is not
a one-way airport. However I would agree takeoff on 21 is best because the terrain
is slightly higher to the north. I have landed on 3 and departed on 21
only because I was coming and going to the south and no one else was in the pattern
and the winds where calm. The only instrument approach procedure (IAP) to
SEZ is to runway 3, and the only standard instrument departure procedure (SID)
is off of runway 21. However we are not talking about clear blue VFR, IFR procedures
do not matter. The terrain is not enough to justify making this a one-way
airport. Use the runway that the wind favors (usually rwy 21) OR other traffic
is using OR call UNICOM/CTAF (123.0) for recommended RWY. If all the above
are nutural land in the direction that makes it
easy for
you. Of course listen and make calls in the blind, this is universal and per the
AIM. If you are rusty on un-controlled airport Ops read the AIM.
Paul I got to admit you really have me confused with "I like to do soft field type
landings there because of the winds."
Paul, what are you talking about? No offense but that does not make sense at all.
In windy conditions you should fly the aircraft onto the runway under control
positive. Soft field landings are at or near min speed (stall) at high angle
of attack. The only thing to do in windy conditions with gusts, is add some
extra speed. The extra speed is bleed off on short short final. I would not recommend
a full stall landing in gusty conditions.
WIND: Look KSEZ prevailing winds (if there is any) are usually from the south around
10 mph and are caused by frontal activity, thermal conditions and terrain.
I have been in there several times and at different times of the year and day
and never found wind a major issue, but if it is windy there is a chance of:
"turbulence experienced in the vicinity of the airport." There is no unique
characteristic of the Sedona area that makes it subject to high winds more than
any other part of Arizona except the terrain, which can shelter as well. Expect
the after noon heat will create thermal bump activity, but it's no big deal.
Just check the weather, current, forecast, AIMETS, SIGMETS. I would also look
at winds aloft at 9000/12,000 feet. If the wind is blowing more than 20-30
kts @ 9,000 feet, it can be bouncy.
I don't recommend any special "technique" for Sedona; it is just an airport on
a 500' MESA, plenty wide and long (about 5000' x 75). IT IS JUST AN AIRPORT. Yes
it has terrain that is about 3,000' higher with in 25nm. Yes it sits on a 500'
mesa. So what. If it's windy there CAN be turbulence. NO big deal. It is a
fun airport with a long wide runway. The town is too far to walk to but close
by with taxi. Check the weather for any 24 hour period over a week or so, you
will get a feel of the weather, which is usually clear this time of year.
As far as landing there is no special technique. Fly the way you always do. Airport
is @ 4700' elev so pattern is 5700'. There is no big deal to landing at Sedona
and it is open at night.
If we are NOT talking about Sedona AZ than my apologize. Paul not sure what you
are talking about but let me know when you are flying into KSEZ next time. I
want to see you fly that RIGHT pattern to RUN 12 looking at the altimeter. : -)
(Just Kidding).
Cheers George ATP, CFI
>From: Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com>
>Subject: Re: Who Frequents Sedona, AZ?
>
>Trust your altimiter (altimeter?). Everyone always comes in high
>and hot, and ends up slamming on the runway. I've
>seen many broken wheel pants there. In the AFD it
>doesn't say it, but you should land on RWY 30 and
>Takeoff on RWY 12. LISTEN to everyone on the radio,
>because many people fly in there and are not familiar,
>and you will have people doing right traffic for 12
>and left traffic for 30. I like to do soft field type
>landings there because of the winds.
>
>Paul Besing
---------------------------------
Rekindle the Rivalries. Sign up for Fantasy Football
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Danielson" <Jdaniel343(at)bresnan.net> |
Check to make sure they are both apples to apples comparison. Usually
the cheaper one will leave out the headset/mic adapter. This can run $50
or more.
Usually there is no difference in the radios. The more expensive ones
usually have a VOR/CDI.
John L. Danielson
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy Russell
Subject: Subject: RV-List: Icom comparison
A23 is excellent as a backup NAV/Com. Used it for both on a least 2
occasions. Randy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hedrick" <khedrick(at)frontiernet.net> |
Two things I don't like about my icom are 1) NO METER to tell me how much
battery strength is left. When it says low battery you have enough battery
to say 'bye', not enough to say 'good bye'. and 2) no backlight (this is
plus and minus for batt strength.)
Keith Hedrick
Carlinville IL
=================
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Danielson
Subject: RE: Subject: RV-List: Icom comparison
Check to make sure they are both apples to apples comparison. Usually
the cheaper one will leave out the headset/mic adapter. This can run $50
or more.
Usually there is no difference in the radios. The more expensive ones
usually have a VOR/CDI.
John L. Danielson
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy Russell
Subject: Subject: RV-List: Icom comparison
A23 is excellent as a backup NAV/Com. Used it for both on a least 2
occasions. Randy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Fenstermacher" <dfenstermacher(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Sloshing fuel tanks w/alodine after completion |
Read the archives on the plusses and minuses of alodine on the tank parts.
Not trying to re-hash that.
What I was thinking was - slosh alumiprep and alodine in the finished tanks for
corrosion protection.
Being that I am far too lazy to do the individual parts :)
What do you all think - good/bad idea.
Thanks,
Dave
David Fenstermacher
dfenstermacher(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DonVS" <dsvs(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Sloshing fuel tanks w/alodine after completion |
Alumaprep is an acid. Not sure how the proseal will stand up to this. Oh
alodine is also acid based. Don
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of David
Fenstermacher
Subject: RV-List: Sloshing fuel tanks w/alodine after completion
Read the archives on the plusses and minuses of alodine on the tank parts.
Not trying to re-hash that.
What I was thinking was - slosh alumiprep and alodine in the finished tanks
for corrosion protection.
Being that I am far too lazy to do the individual parts :)
What do you all think - good/bad idea.
Thanks,
Dave
David Fenstermacher
dfenstermacher(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <paul(at)kitlog.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Who Frequents Sedona, AZ? |
Yes we are talking about the same airport. Sorry, I got the runway numbers
incorrect. I didn't have the AFD in front of me when I wrote the email.
Last time I was there, about a month ago, there was a sign that said the
airport is closed after 7:00 PM if I remember correctly. Nevertheless, I
would not consider going there at night. It might have been temporary,
because I remember people talking about it on the ramp.
As far as the altimiter is concerned, the reason why I said that is there is
a great visual illusion when you land there. The ground below you is
probably 500-1000' lower than the airport elevation. I bring students there
often, and every stinking time, they are high and fast. They are scared
about hitting the approach end that slopes down into the valley.
Prevailing winds or not, I am just stating what most people who regularly
fly in there do. The traffic patterns there are strange sometimes. The AFD
*used to say* land on 3 and take off on 21. They took it out. You have
many locals and others who frequent SEZ and they still do this. The problem
is, newcomers just go off of the wind, and you'll have people landing
opposite directions. Most of the time, a local will come on the radio and
correct the person from landing on the *wrong* runway. I disagree with the
comment about landing there where the winds are coming from, within reason,
of course. The runway is sloped pretty steep. Land uphill, take off
downhill kind of thing. You might fly an RV in there with no problems, but
you get weekend warriors in a C-172 with 3 or god forbid 4 people in the
summertime, and you need that downhill slope. Now, don't misread me on
this, because if the wind is greater than about 5 knots or so, I would start
evaluating the wind and now following the typical runway selection. Of
course I would rather have a stiff headwind while taking off high DA, but if
it is light, or a crosswind, I'm taking off on the downhill and landing on
the uphill.
I know you have been in there, but I'm not sure how many times. I frequent
Sedona with my students, and I am just stating what I have seen there over
the years. Just last time I was there I saw someone pancake a C172 on the
runway and tear up a wheel pant. It is a very common mistake. I've seen it
from private, instrument, and commercial students.
As far as soft field landings, I think I didn't elaborate enough. My point
is to land with POWER, i.e positive control. I teach soft field landings to
be "greaser" type landings, slightly faster than the full stall landings,
rather than high angle of attack, slow airspeed. The reason is that people
try to landing high angle of attack, then they are on the area of reverse
command. They try to squeak in a little power to soften the landing, and if
it is too much power, they are a prime candidate for a departure stall.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
Kitlog Builder's Software
www.kitlog.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com
Subject: RV-List: Re: Who Frequents Sedona, AZ?
Paul:
I re-read your original post after your second post that SEZ is closed at
night and I am starting to think we are talking about two different
airports?
KSEZ: Sedona has runway 3 and 21. Not sure where you got: "....should land
on RWY 30 and Takeoff RWY 12" ?
Also it is LEFT traffic for both runway 3 and 21.
Are we talking about the same airport KSEZ, Sedona AZ? KSEZ as I said is
open 24 hours.
As far as your comment: "Everyone always comes in high and hot, and ends up
slamming on the runway. I've seen many broken wheel pants there."
Trusting altimeter for landing and broken wheel pants? I am not sure what
you are talking about, I don't look at my altimeter when landing or do any
pilot I know. Like ANY landing look at the runway and my aim point. I do the
same in my RV or B767. Here is the deal, both runways at Sedona are served
by a VASI (two lights to the left of the runway touchdown zone). As long as
you have white over red you will be fine. Fly normal approach speeds and
follow the VASI, which provides a 3.0 deg final approach at SEZ. There
should be no over riding visual illusion to make you fly high. In fact with
the 75' width runway and airport higher than surrounding surface you would
tend to fly lower and flat. Again VASI and standard pattern at standard
speeds = NO BIG DEAL. Wheel pants? Not sure why wheel pants are breaking.
"In the AFD it doesn't say it, but you should land on RWY 30 and Takeoff on
RWY 12."
Paul as far as landing, land on the runway that is favored by the wind. If
there were no wind why would you want to land on 30 (guess you mean 3) and
take off on runway 12 (guess you mean 21). You will have traffic conflict.
This is not a one-way airport. However I would agree takeoff on 21 is best
because the terrain is slightly higher to the north. I have landed on 3 and
departed on 21 only because I was coming and going to the south and no one
else was in the pattern and the winds where calm. The only instrument
approach procedure (IAP) to SEZ is to runway 3, and the only standard
instrument departure procedure (SID) is off of runway 21. However we are not
talking about clear blue VFR, IFR procedures do not matter. The terrain is
not enough to justify making this a one-way airport. Use the runway that the
wind favors (usually rwy 21) OR other traffic is using OR call UNICOM/CTAF
(123.0) for recommended RWY. If all the above are nutural land in the
direction that makes it
easy for
you. Of course listen and make calls in the blind, this is universal and
per the AIM. If you are rusty on un-controlled airport Ops read the AIM.
Paul I got to admit you really have me confused with "I like to do soft
field type landings there because of the winds."
Paul, what are you talking about? No offense but that does not make sense at
all. In windy conditions you should fly the aircraft onto the runway under
control positive. Soft field landings are at or near min speed (stall) at
high angle of attack. The only thing to do in windy conditions with gusts,
is add some extra speed. The extra speed is bleed off on short short final.
I would not recommend a full stall landing in gusty conditions.
WIND: Look KSEZ prevailing winds (if there is any) are usually from the
south around 10 mph and are caused by frontal activity, thermal conditions
and terrain. I have been in there several times and at different times of
the year and day and never found wind a major issue, but if it is windy
there is a chance of: "turbulence experienced in the vicinity of the
airport." There is no unique characteristic of the Sedona area that makes it
subject to high winds more than any other part of Arizona except the
terrain, which can shelter as well. Expect the after noon heat will create
thermal bump activity, but it's no big deal. Just check the weather,
current, forecast, AIMETS, SIGMETS. I would also look at winds aloft at
9000/12,000 feet. If the wind is blowing more than 20-30 kts @ 9,000 feet,
it can be bouncy.
I don't recommend any special "technique" for Sedona; it is just an airport
on a 500' MESA, plenty wide and long (about 5000' x 75). IT IS JUST AN
AIRPORT. Yes it has terrain that is about 3,000' higher with in 25nm. Yes it
sits on a 500' mesa. So what. If it's windy there CAN be turbulence. NO big
deal. It is a fun airport with a long wide runway. The town is too far to
walk to but close by with taxi. Check the weather for any 24 hour period
over a week or so, you will get a feel of the weather, which is usually
clear this time of year.
As far as landing there is no special technique. Fly the way you always do.
Airport is @ 4700' elev so pattern is 5700'. There is no big deal to landing
at Sedona and it is open at night.
If we are NOT talking about Sedona AZ than my apologize. Paul not sure what
you are talking about but let me know when you are flying into KSEZ next
time. I want to see you fly that RIGHT pattern to RUN 12 looking at the
altimeter. : -) (Just Kidding).
Cheers George ATP, CFI
>From: Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com>
>Subject: Re: Who Frequents Sedona, AZ?
>
>Trust your altimiter (altimeter?). Everyone always comes in high
>and hot, and ends up slamming on the runway. I've
>seen many broken wheel pants there. In the AFD it
>doesn't say it, but you should land on RWY 30 and
>Takeoff on RWY 12. LISTEN to everyone on the radio,
>because many people fly in there and are not familiar,
>and you will have people doing right traffic for 12
>and left traffic for 30. I like to do soft field type
>landings there because of the winds.
>
>Paul Besing
---------------------------------
Rekindle the Rivalries. Sign up for Fantasy Football
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Trotter <ptrotter(at)acm.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Sloshing fuel tanks w/alodine after completion |
I think that alodining tank parts is a good idea, it gives you some
additional corrosion protection, especially considering that your tanks will
probably sit for some time before they get filled with fuel. However, I
would do the individual parts as I think it will be difficult to get a good
result sloshing the tank after it is completed. Particularly, I think
rinsing the alodine out will be difficult, as you don't want to let alodine
sit on the metal too long. Alodining will also improve the adhesion of
ProSeal, since ProSeal adheres better to alodined metal than to bare metal.
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Fenstermacher" <dfenstermacher(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Sloshing fuel tanks w/alodine after completion
>
> Read the archives on the plusses and minuses of alodine on the tank parts.
> Not trying to re-hash that.
> What I was thinking was - slosh alumiprep and alodine in the finished
tanks for corrosion protection.
> Being that I am far too lazy to do the individual parts :)
>
>
> What do you all think - good/bad idea.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dave
>
>
> David Fenstermacher
> dfenstermacher(at)earthlink.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Who Frequents Sedona, AZ? |
Fair enough Paul, good points and understand what you are saying now.
Here are a few cool sites for the Sedona AZ, airport:
http://airport.sedona.net/home_index.html
http://airport.sedona.net/layout_index.html
http://airport.sedona.net/noise_index.html
http://airport.sedona.net/parking_index.html
http://www.airnav.com/airport/KSEZ
http://www.airnav.com/airport/KSEZ/RED_ROCK
One point about botched landings is really in part due to the density altitude
than the MESA.
Remember your INDICATED approach speed at 5,000 feet will be the same as it is
at sea level, BUT your GROUND SPEED at touch down will be HIGHER because your
true airspeed is higher (by almost 10% at 5,000 feet). So if you are used to the
visual clues of a sea level landings, expect to FEEL like you are landing at
a higher speed, by as much as 5-6 mph, because you are. Your *indicated* speed
at touch-down is the same, but your ground speed is higher. Don't try to hold
it off for a squeaker or you might drop it in. This is not special to Sedona's
topography, just density altitude.
Not withstanding runway slope or poor aircraft performance, landing 03 and takeoff
21 is preferred due to the 1% grade for no wind condition. Good point about
the slope. Since prevailing winds are southerly, favoring rwy 21 anyway, expect
departing traffic off of runway 21 most of the time. Expect to land runway
03 unless there is wind or a lot of traffic.
Taking off in one direction and landing in another is ripe for problems, especially
when the airport is busy. Listen to CTAF / UNICOM, look out and do as the
Romans do. Not different than what we always do. As far as "local tribal knowledge"
and habit patterns of local pilots can differ from what a transient pilot
expect, so watch out.
A far as "fast and high", two words AIM POINT and GO AROUND. I understand there
are many transient pilots at gross weight and may be less than stellar skills
in high/hot operations, but to me this really is not an excuse. The airport is
not to blame, but it is a high altitude airport.
As you point out your student pilots have problems, but that is because they are
not proficient with using the aim point (interpret) and ability to control the
aircraft fully (pitch to aim point, power to adjust speed). This will give
a stabilize approach on a fixed glide path. A stabilize approach is the key to
a good landing. An un-stabilized approach is a recipe for a bad /hard landing.
All airlines require a stabilized approach by at least 500 feet in VFR conditions.
That means no major changes in power, pitch, track, aircraft configuration
or glide path. The VASI makes the job even easier. My guess is if your students
hare having problems at Sedona they are not making consistent approaches
and landings in the low lands.
Fear of the edge of the MESA is physiological I guess. The runway is set back from
the edge so it is not a big deal, but it apparently affects approaches as
you pointed out Paul. I would advise look at and focus on the VASI and or runway
touchdown aim point (moving up or down in windscreen) and ignore the Mesa and
surrounding terrain on final.
I agree that night flying has more risk than day, in any part of the country, not
just AZ, especially in single engine aircraft. Again night ops are at KSEZ
are OK if you have situational awareness of the surrounding terrain, which there
is plenty of , but an RV climbing out off of rwy 21, straight out will have
no problem getting above the surrounding terrain in 2-3 minutes.
There is an GPS IAP to runway you could use as ref for arrival at night:
http://204.108.4.16/d-tpp/0505/06169G3.PDF
Expect to have very little ground reference on dark moonless nights over the sparsely
populated areas (read IFR attitude instruments and ability). Of course
as you point out some pilots have problems landing at SEZ even during the day.
No doubt this is the case, but the airport is not to blame. Enjoy your trip and
recommend the fancy Mexican restaurant.
Cheers George
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Schaefer" <dschaefer1(at)kc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Jefferson City, Missouri FLY-IN |
The annual Jefferson City EAA Fly-in is this coming weekend 06/25/05. Hope
to see a gaggle of RV's there even with this short notice!
Thanks.
David Schaefer
RV-6A N142DS
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | poor radio xmit quality - SOLVED! |
I wrote before to ask for help on high radio noise on my transmissions. I
solved it with help from the aero-electric archives. It was as simple as
turning down the mic gain.
My Icom A200 radio was bothering me with strong feedback at high rpm but
everything sounded great at idle or pattern rpm. I decreased the mic gain by
turning down the potentiometer within the A200 to about half of the factory
setting. Now everything is great. The feedback for me is at a good level and
the
quality of my received transmissions is high.
Rick Grenwis
N613G - RV6AQB - 61 hours
Colorado Springs, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brad Oliver" <brad(at)rv7factory.com> |
| Subject: | Problems Spraying Primer (AFS)... suggestions please. |
Since starting my empennage about a few weeks ago, I set out today to do my
first batch of priming. Unfortunately the results were less than stellar...
I am using the AFS Water-based 1-Part Primer/Sealer, sprayed by a Harbor
Freight HVLP Detail Gun. My process was a simple one used by several other
builders... wipe down parts with lacquer thinner, wash with dawn, clean/etch
with AFS etcher/cleaner, wash parts with clean water, dry, then spray the
primer. What I ended up with was a combination of orange peel, fish eyes,
and splattered primer. Caused by... I don't know... me, my process, my
equipment, or a combination???
My understanding is that the fish eyes are caused by surface contamination.
I scrubbed the parts with a soapy scotchbrite, rinsed them, then cleaned
with AFS Cleaner/Etch, rinsed again, dried them using air, and sprayed the
primer only minutes after etching. I am baffled because I never touched the
parts with my bare hands and the rinse water always sheeted... the parts
*appeared* to be clean, obviously they were not. Any suggestions on how to
avoid the fish eyes or improve my process? Would wiping the parts with a
tack rag prior to spraying the primer be advisable? Could the fish eyes
have been caused my contaminants in the air supply or spray gun?
What I am less clear on is the orange peel and splattered primer (almost
like texture). I sprayed outside on a sunny day with temps in the high 70s
(maybe a little higher). Could the outside temp or the temp of the parts
have anything to do with the orange peel or splattered primer?
Any idea what is going wrong and what I can do to resolve these issues?
On a side note, I am not impressed with the Harbor Freight HVLP gun... it
seems to either spray little to no primer or too much primer, but never in
between. The primer getting lower in the cup seems to create a vacuum above
the primer which prevents primer from feeding into the gun, then upon
releasing the vacuum by opening the lid on the cup the gun sprays
excessively until it eventually builds up a vacuum again and stops
altogether.
Thanks,
Brad Oliver
RV-7 Livermore, CA
PS - Those self-etching rattle can primers are sounding better every minute.
;-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Problems Spraying Primer (AFS)... suggestions please. |
| From: | "Mark A. Sedlacek" <Mark(at)sedlaceks.com> |
Hi Brad, I've been using the AFS primer for some time now and have had pretty good
luck with it. It appears your prep is sound. I'd look to oil and or water
in your compressed air line as the source of your "fish eyes" and the aluminum
was hot from spraying outside in the sun as the source of the orange peel.
Best of luck.
Mark Sedlacek
RV-8a
San Jose
________________________________
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Brad Oliver
Subject: RV-List: Problems Spraying Primer (AFS)... suggestions please.
Since starting my empennage about a few weeks ago, I set out today to do my
first batch of priming. Unfortunately the results were less than stellar...
I am using the AFS Water-based 1-Part Primer/Sealer, sprayed by a Harbor
Freight HVLP Detail Gun. My process was a simple one used by several other
builders... wipe down parts with lacquer thinner, wash with dawn, clean/etch
with AFS etcher/cleaner, wash parts with clean water, dry, then spray the
primer. What I ended up with was a combination of orange peel, fish eyes,
and splattered primer. Caused by... I don't know... me, my process, my
equipment, or a combination???
My understanding is that the fish eyes are caused by surface contamination.
I scrubbed the parts with a soapy scotchbrite, rinsed them, then cleaned
with AFS Cleaner/Etch, rinsed again, dried them using air, and sprayed the
primer only minutes after etching. I am baffled because I never touched the
parts with my bare hands and the rinse water always sheeted... the parts
*appeared* to be clean, obviously they were not. Any suggestions on how to
avoid the fish eyes or improve my process? Would wiping the parts with a
tack rag prior to spraying the primer be advisable? Could the fish eyes
have been caused my contaminants in the air supply or spray gun?
What I am less clear on is the orange peel and splattered primer (almost
like texture). I sprayed outside on a sunny day with temps in the high 70s
(maybe a little higher). Could the outside temp or the temp of the parts
have anything to do with the orange peel or splattered primer?
Any idea what is going wrong and what I can do to resolve these issues?
On a side note, I am not impressed with the Harbor Freight HVLP gun... it
seems to either spray little to no primer or too much primer, but never in
between. The primer getting lower in the cup seems to create a vacuum above
the primer which prevents primer from feeding into the gun, then upon
releasing the vacuum by opening the lid on the cup the gun sprays
excessively until it eventually builds up a vacuum again and stops
altogether.
Thanks,
Brad Oliver
RV-7 Livermore, CA
PS - Those self-etching rattle can primers are sounding better every minute.
;-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Problems Spraying Primer (AFS)... suggestions please. |
We have a problem with the water at APV. When painting of any type we wash
with the stuff from the end of the hose BUT give a "final" rinse with
bottled water. Water from the tap at APV will cause "fisheyes" in just about
anything we prime and/or paint. Your circumstances may vary but a coupla
bucks for the "final" rinse may save you some time & work. KABONG HRII
N561FS Do No Archive (GBA & GWB)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark A. Sedlacek" <Mark(at)sedlaceks.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Problems Spraying Primer (AFS)... suggestions please.
>> Hi Brad, I've been using the AFS primer for some time now and have had
>> pretty good luck with it. It appears your prep is sound. I'd look to
>> oil and or water in your compressed air line as the source of your "fish
>> eyes" and the aluminum was hot from spraying outside in the sun as the
>> source of the orange peel.
>
a few weeks ago, I set out today to do my
> first batch of priming. Unfortunately the results were less than
> stellar...
>
>
> My understanding is that the fish eyes are caused by surface
> contamination.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Coldenhoff <rv9a_000(at)deru.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Problems Spraying Primer (AFS)... suggestions please. |
Brad Oliver wrote:
> What I am less clear on is the orange peel and splattered primer (almost
> like texture). I sprayed outside on a sunny day with temps in the high 70s
> (maybe a little higher). Could the outside temp or the temp of the parts
> have anything to do with the orange peel or splattered primer?
>
> Any idea what is going wrong and what I can do to resolve these issues?
I have painted my plane with AFS and have gotten less than stellar
results because of the spray environment (too hot and dry in Arizona)
and my ability as a painter.
What I did learn is that your temps need to be below 80, and keep the
humidity as high as you can. Try spraying water on the ground around
the parts to help. If it warms up any more, coil up your air hose
and put it in a cold water bath. Temperature at the tip of the gun
makes a big difference also.
For the fish eye, check your hoses and make sure there is no oil
or water in the lines. Use clean hoses and a water trap/filter.
It sounds in your case like the gun setup is off. The AFS
paints require that you be able to spray a mist of paint. The
technique is that you put on a mist coat, wait till it gets tacky,
then spray another mist coat. Repeat until you get good coverage,
which may mean four or more passes. You can't spray on volume
or it will run & sag.
I used a HD gravity feed gun with good results. It only costs
about $40, and I used it to spray the whole plane. I would highly
recommend fixing or changing the gun until you can consistently
spray a nice mist from it. Use a box or some paper or something to
practice spraying on; don't continue with real parts until you are
ready. Trust me, sanding it all off back to bare metal is a lot
of work... I know!
- Tim Coldenhoff
RV9A N194TC - Flying!
http://rv9a.deru.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Shannon" <kshannon(at)seanet.com> |
Seattle area RVers,
I highly recommend the DAR that just did my -8, he was very
knowledgeable and helpful with getting through all the paperwork issues,
charged what I thought was a very reasonable fee ($200) and even came
out and did it on a Saturday. His contact info is
Charlie Cotton
360-893-6719
Kevin Shannon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brad Oliver <brad(at)rv7factory.com> |
| Subject: | Problems Spraying Primer (AFS)... suggestions please. |
Thanks to everyone who responded with suggestions. Based on the
feedback I received I am making the following changes to my set-up
and/or process...
>>> Bring it inside, or wait until evening
The parts were probably too hot to be spraying primer. I also think
the sunlight reflecting off the parts made it hard for me to tell
how much primer I was spraying on them, and I think ended up
spraying too much.
>>> Thin primer a bit more
I had thinned it, using distilled water, to 25 secs. I may try to go
down to around 20 secs. IIRC the range for AFS is 20-25 secs.
>>> Install a small filter at the END of the air hose
My set-up has a 4' hose, a filter/regulator, a 25' hose, a desiccant
cartridge, then another regulator (on the gun). While my hope was that
the desiccant cartridge would remove any errant water in the line, I am
thinking a filter might be better (plus the desiccant).
>>> Final rinse or wipe down parts with bottled/distilled water
I will probably buy a few gallons of distilled water and use them along
with a lint free cloth to give the parts a final wipe down before
hanging them to dry.
>>> Drip (hang) dry parts
After the final rinse (wipe down), I will let the parts drip dry inside.
>>> Gun pressure
Experiment more.
>>> HVLP Gun
Poke a hole in the lid to allow the pressure to equalize in the cup.
>>> Technique
Spray a light fog coat first not worrying about getting it on the entire
part. I can always hit the area I missed the next time around.
Thanks! I will post my results here.
~Brad
> -------- Original Message --------
> Subject: RV-List: Problems Spraying Primer (AFS)... suggestions please.
> From: "Brad Oliver" <brad(at)rv7factory.com>
> Date: Sun, June 19, 2005 10:34 pm
> To: "Rv-List"
>
>
> Since starting my empennage about a few weeks ago, I set out today to do my
> first batch of priming. Unfortunately the results were less than stellar...
>
> I am using the AFS Water-based 1-Part Primer/Sealer, sprayed by a Harbor
> Freight HVLP Detail Gun. My process was a simple one used by several other
> builders... wipe down parts with lacquer thinner, wash with dawn, clean/etch
> with AFS etcher/cleaner, wash parts with clean water, dry, then spray the
> primer. What I ended up with was a combination of orange peel, fish eyes,
> and splattered primer. Caused by... I don't know... me, my process, my
> equipment, or a combination???
>
> My understanding is that the fish eyes are caused by surface contamination.
> I scrubbed the parts with a soapy scotchbrite, rinsed them, then cleaned
> with AFS Cleaner/Etch, rinsed again, dried them using air, and sprayed the
> primer only minutes after etching. I am baffled because I never touched the
> parts with my bare hands and the rinse water always sheeted... the parts
> *appeared* to be clean, obviously they were not. Any suggestions on how to
> avoid the fish eyes or improve my process? Would wiping the parts with a
> tack rag prior to spraying the primer be advisable? Could the fish eyes
> have been caused my contaminants in the air supply or spray gun?
>
> What I am less clear on is the orange peel and splattered primer (almost
> like texture). I sprayed outside on a sunny day with temps in the high 70s
> (maybe a little higher). Could the outside temp or the temp of the parts
> have anything to do with the orange peel or splattered primer?
>
> Any idea what is going wrong and what I can do to resolve these issues?
>
> On a side note, I am not impressed with the Harbor Freight HVLP gun... it
> seems to either spray little to no primer or too much primer, but never in
> between. The primer getting lower in the cup seems to create a vacuum above
> the primer which prevents primer from feeding into the gun, then upon
> releasing the vacuum by opening the lid on the cup the gun sprays
> excessively until it eventually builds up a vacuum again and stops
> altogether.
>
> Thanks,
> Brad Oliver
> RV-7 Livermore, CA
>
> PS - Those self-etching rattle can primers are sounding better every minute.
> ;-)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Dube <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: Sloshing fuel tanks w/alodine after completion |
I would think it wiser to Alodine the parts before assembly.
1) ProSeal would likely stick better.
2) No residue in seams, nooks, and crannies.
3) No possible damage to the ProSeal.
4) You can properly prep the surfaces for the Alodine application.
Bill Dube'
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted D. Hultzapple" <thultzap(at)rochester.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Governor bracket |
Can anyone tell me if the bracket that Van's sells (VA-153-PC) will fit the
Jihostroj governor?
Thanks,
Ted
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Problems Spraying Primer (AFS)... suggestions please. |
I got fish eyes in my first batch of primer. Turns out the problem had been
with my bright idea to transfer the primer components to the mixing
container using cheap squeeze bulb turkey basters. I found something in the
archives or somewhere else that said one of the primer components would
dissolve certain rubbers or plastics and contaminate the primer and result
in fish eyes. Since I still use plastic mixing cups with no problem then
I'm guessing the primer dissolved the rubber bulb material. Anyway, you
might want to think about everything your primer comes into contact with on
its way to the aluminum.
Brett
Toledo
8a wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brad Oliver
Subject: RV-List: Problems Spraying Primer (AFS)... suggestions please.
Since starting my empennage about a few weeks ago, I set out today to do my
first batch of priming. Unfortunately the results were less than stellar...
I am using the AFS Water-based 1-Part Primer/Sealer, sprayed by a Harbor
Freight HVLP Detail Gun. My process was a simple one used by several other
builders... wipe down parts with lacquer thinner, wash with dawn, clean/etch
with AFS etcher/cleaner, wash parts with clean water, dry, then spray the
primer. What I ended up with was a combination of orange peel, fish eyes,
and splattered primer. Caused by... I don't know... me, my process, my
equipment, or a combination???
My understanding is that the fish eyes are caused by surface contamination.
I scrubbed the parts with a soapy scotchbrite, rinsed them, then cleaned
with AFS Cleaner/Etch, rinsed again, dried them using air, and sprayed the
primer only minutes after etching. I am baffled because I never touched the
parts with my bare hands and the rinse water always sheeted... the parts
*appeared* to be clean, obviously they were not. Any suggestions on how to
avoid the fish eyes or improve my process? Would wiping the parts with a
tack rag prior to spraying the primer be advisable? Could the fish eyes
have been caused my contaminants in the air supply or spray gun?
What I am less clear on is the orange peel and splattered primer (almost
like texture). I sprayed outside on a sunny day with temps in the high 70s
(maybe a little higher). Could the outside temp or the temp of the parts
have anything to do with the orange peel or splattered primer?
Any idea what is going wrong and what I can do to resolve these issues?
On a side note, I am not impressed with the Harbor Freight HVLP gun... it
seems to either spray little to no primer or too much primer, but never in
between. The primer getting lower in the cup seems to create a vacuum above
the primer which prevents primer from feeding into the gun, then upon
releasing the vacuum by opening the lid on the cup the gun sprays
excessively until it eventually builds up a vacuum again and stops
altogether.
Thanks,
Brad Oliver
RV-7 Livermore, CA
PS - Those self-etching rattle can primers are sounding better every minute.
;-)
Message transport security by GatewayDefender.com
1:42:19 AM ET - 6/20/2005
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
| Subject: | Governor bracket |
I got my bracket from vans but I had to cut it and re-weld it to make it fit
the way I wanted it to.
John
RV6A O-320
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "glaesers" <glaesers(at)wideopenwest.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Problems Spraying Primer (AFS)... suggestions please. |
Wow - I just primed a bunch of parts for my empennage this weekend - and
everything came out fine. I'm using the AFS primer (one part) - sounds
like Brett used a two-part primer. I'm using the small primer sprayer from
Vans catalog which uses 35mm canisters and had the same 'bright idea' about
using a turkey baster to fill the canister. Since the volume is small, I
only needed to fill the baster about half way. I never let the paint come
in contact with the bulb because I didn't want to hassle with cleaning it.
Being lazy pays off once in a while :-) Maybe the one-part primer doesn't
attack the bulb material (I'll have to test it), but it's not worth taking a
chance!
Dennis Glaeser
Rochester Hills, MI
7A Empennage
--------------------------------------------
<brett.morawski@buckeye-express.com>
I got fish eyes in my first batch of primer. Turns out the problem had been
with my bright idea to transfer the primer components to the mixing
container using cheap squeeze bulb turkey basters. I found something in the
archives or somewhere else that said one of the primer components would
dissolve certain rubbers or plastics and contaminate the primer and result
in fish eyes. Since I still use plastic mixing cups with no problem then
I'm guessing the primer dissolved the rubber bulb material. Anyway, you
might want to think about everything your primer comes into contact with on
its way to the aluminum.
Brett
Toledo
8a wings
------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | Governor bracket |
I have an 8.5 x 11 sheet from Van's that is the "Installation/Orientation,
MT Governor/VA-183 Bracket. I am quite sure this is the Jihostroj governor
that I bought from Van's, but note the bracket number is different from the
one you mention.
Terry
RV-8A; Superior/Aero Sport Power IO-360-b1b
Finishing
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ted D. Hultzapple
Subject: RV-List: Governor bracket
Can anyone tell me if the bracket that Van's sells (VA-153-PC) will fit the
Jihostroj governor?
Thanks,
Ted
_
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
| Subject: | Black Liquid glue/sealer |
Mickey,
Scotchweld 286 is somewhat fluid and can probably be extended with an epoxy
solvent - would need to do some tests though. When it sets it is hard but
flexible - not at all brittle.
Michle
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mickey Coggins
> Sent: Thursday, June 16, 2005 5:54 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Black Liquid glue/sealer
>
>
> Hi,
>
> I'm looking for something that may not exist, but
> thought I'd check here. I need a sealer or glue
> that will flow pretty well when wet, but will
> dry kind of like hard rubber. My fallback is
> to mix up some epoxy and try to put some pigment
> in it, but I'd prefer it if the result had just
> a bit of flexibility. Does anyone know if such a
> product exists, and where I can buy it?
>
> Thanks,
> Mickey
> --
> Mickey Coggins
> http://www.rv8.ch/
> #82007 Canopy
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Governor bracket |
Van's sells two different governor brackets. One for the Woodward and the
other for the Jihostroj. Just tell them which one you want. They are not
interchangable.
Mike Robertson
>From: "Ted D. Hultzapple" <thultzap(at)rochester.rr.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Governor bracket
>Date: Mon, 20 Jun 2005 22:03:40 -0400
>
>
>
>Can anyone tell me if the bracket that Van's sells (VA-153-PC) will fit the
>Jihostroj governor?
>Thanks,
>Ted
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | *EFIS / INSTRUMENTS FOR SALE* |
I have some stuff for sale that some of you might be interested in...
NEW:
Grand Rapids Dual Display EFIS w/GPS Module - $9000
USED:
Airspeed - $100
Altimeter - $150
VSI - $95
G-Meter - $240
Needle & Ball - $195
More info and photos here: http://www.vondane.com/forsale/index.htm
-Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.edu> |
| Subject: | lycoming lift ring |
Wow,
after reading this I gotta comment.
The Lycoming case was never designed to be a lifting point for the entire
aircraft.
I would be very cautious using this for anything other than lifting the
engine, sans an aircraft and propeller.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Szantho" <szantho(at)usa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall control cable hole locations |
I am ready to install the engine mount and engine on my RV9-A (O-320 D1A,
standard Lycoming, no special additions); however I would like to drill the
firewall holes for the Throttle, Carbheat, and Mixture cables. Van's
suggested that I should install the engine first, because the DWG 19
depicted hole locations might change. It sure would be a big pain to drill
these holes once the engine is installed. Van's suggested solution is to
remove the engine with the mount, drill the holes and reinstall the
engine/mount combo. This might be even more fun! Did any of you run into any
problems with the hole locations (did you have to move any of them to a
different location) once the engine is installed? In an earlier conversation
with Van's I suggested moving the Mixture firewall cable hole a bit to the
left to clear the Facet pump backing plate, but they told me not to do that.
So what is a poor first time builder to do? Help guys. I purchased the
control cables from Van's in the Firewall Forward Kit.
John
RV9-A N3294C
Firewall Forward
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall control cable hole locations |
John,
Have you considered using a Greenlee hole punch? You will probably get away
with not having to remove the engine this way. However, removing the
engine/mount combination in not a big deal if you have an engine hoist. I
would recommend not torqueing the engine mount nuts until you're sure you
won't be removing the engine any more.
Pat Hatch
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John B. Szantho
Subject: RV-List: Re: Firewall control cable hole locations
I am ready to install the engine mount and engine on my RV9-A (O-320 D1A,
standard Lycoming, no special additions); however I would like to drill the
firewall holes for the Throttle, Carbheat, and Mixture cables. Van's
suggested that I should install the engine first, because the DWG 19
depicted hole locations might change. It sure would be a big pain to drill
these holes once the engine is installed. Van's suggested solution is to
remove the engine with the mount, drill the holes and reinstall the
engine/mount combo. This might be even more fun! Did any of you run into any
problems with the hole locations (did you have to move any of them to a
different location) once the engine is installed? In an earlier conversation
with Van's I suggested moving the Mixture firewall cable hole a bit to the
left to clear the Facet pump backing plate, but they told me not to do that.
So what is a poor first time builder to do? Help guys. I purchased the
control cables from Van's in the Firewall Forward Kit.
John
RV9-A N3294C
Firewall Forward
________________________________________________________________________________
Does anyone out there have a tail for an RV6 or 6A for sale.
Bob Gorman/CA
flynbyk(at)cs.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail for RV6/6A |
I have most of the empanage pieces but not all. What are you looking for?
Dan
FLYNBYK(at)cs.com wrote:
Does anyone out there have a tail for an RV6 or 6A for sale.
Bob Gorman/CA
flynbyk(at)cs.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | Re: *EFIS / INSTRUMENTS FOR SALE* |
Sorry, I was off on the price of the EIFS... I will take $8500...
http://www.vondane.com/forsale/index.htm
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com>
Subject: RV-List: *EFIS / INSTRUMENTS FOR SALE*
I have some stuff for sale that some of you might be interested in...
NEW:
Grand Rapids Dual Display EFIS w/GPS Module - $9000
USED:
Airspeed - SOLD
Altimeter - SOLD
VSI - $95
G-Meter - $240
Needle & Ball - $195
More info and photos here: http://www.vondane.com/forsale/index.htm
-Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Weiler <dcw(at)mnwing.org> |
Greetings Listers:
For the RV-4 folks (there must be a couple still around):
I really need to increase the fresh air ventilation in my -4. Right now I
am taking fresh air off the back baffle and running it through Van's mixing
box into the cabin. Plenty of fresh air when in the "cold" mode, but since
the air flows through the top of the cowling first, it is about 10 degrees
above ambient. Not good on a hot day.
I want to install a NACA vent under the right cheek venting up to a fresh
air eyeball mounted under the right lower portion of the panel. I have a
fair amount of experience in knowing that there are a lot of weird pressure
areas around the RV-4 cowl and canopy. Have any of you mounted a NACA vent
in this area on the RHS?? Does it work OK???
BTW, I have one of Larry Vetterman's little rotating scoop things for the
rear seat pax and it works very well on the RHS of the canopy skirt. But
mounting a similar vent for the front pilot is useless (I had one located
here on a previous RV-4 and it suck air out!!)
Thanks
Doug Weiler
N722DW, 200hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail for RV6/6A |
I've got misc small pieces and most of the fiberglass...
Darrell
FLYNBYK(at)cs.com wrote:
Does anyone out there have a tail for an RV6 or 6A for sale.
Bob Gorman/CA
flynbyk(at)cs.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <bakerocb(at)cox.net> |
6/21/2005
Hello RV Listers, I am seeking your help. I want to purchase a replacement
carbon fiber spinner for my KIS TR-1 airplane. In the past I have visited
the web site for a company that manufactures such replacement spinners for
type certificated airplanes. I feel that I can adapt one of them to my
needs.
My problem is that I cannot relocate that web site. Several hours of
googling comes up empty because the word spinners is so commonly used.
If any of you can come up with that web site I would appreciate it. Please
email me directly as I do not subscribe to the RV list. Many thanks for your
help and I apologize for the off subject posting.
OC <>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 air vent |
> I really need to increase the fresh air ventilation in my -4. Right now I
> am taking fresh air off the back baffle and running it through Van's
mixing
> box into the cabin. Plenty of fresh air when in the "cold" mode, but
since
> the air flows through the top of the cowling first, it is about 10 degrees
> above ambient. Not good on a hot day.
Doug, I've seen a couple of installations where they run the 2" scat tube up
the center of the engine and capture air close to the cooling inlets. I
wonder if this would reduce the 10 degree increase you're getting. I can
send you a pic of such an install if you like, I plan to copy it myself.
> I want to install a NACA vent under the right cheek venting up to a fresh
> air eyeball mounted under the right lower portion of the panel. I have a
> fair amount of experience in knowing that there are a lot of weird
pressure
> areas around the RV-4 cowl and canopy. Have any of you mounted a NACA
vent
> in this area on the RHS?? Does it work OK???
Would like to hear responses on this as well.
> BTW, I have one of Larry Vetterman's little rotating scoop things for the
> rear seat pax and it works very well on the RHS of the canopy skirt. But
> mounting a similar vent for the front pilot is useless (I had one located
> here on a previous RV-4 and it suck air out!!)
Heard that before from many builders.
Cheers,
Randy Lervold
RV-3 #11375, finish kit
www.rv-3.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 air vent |
| From: | Doug Weiler <dcw(at)mnwing.org> |
Yes, send me the photo. I'd be curious.
Doug
On 6/21/05 8:24 PM, "Randy Lervold" wrote:
>
>> I really need to increase the fresh air ventilation in my -4. Right now I
>> am taking fresh air off the back baffle and running it through Van's
> mixing
>> box into the cabin. Plenty of fresh air when in the "cold" mode, but
> since
>> the air flows through the top of the cowling first, it is about 10 degrees
>> above ambient. Not good on a hot day.
>
> Doug, I've seen a couple of installations where they run the 2" scat tube up
> the center of the engine and capture air close to the cooling inlets. I
> wonder if this would reduce the 10 degree increase you're getting. I can
> send you a pic of such an install if you like, I plan to copy it myself.
>
>> I want to install a NACA vent under the right cheek venting up to a fresh
>> air eyeball mounted under the right lower portion of the panel. I have a
>> fair amount of experience in knowing that there are a lot of weird
> pressure
>> areas around the RV-4 cowl and canopy. Have any of you mounted a NACA
> vent
>> in this area on the RHS?? Does it work OK???
>
> Would like to hear responses on this as well.
>
>> BTW, I have one of Larry Vetterman's little rotating scoop things for the
>> rear seat pax and it works very well on the RHS of the canopy skirt. But
>> mounting a similar vent for the front pilot is useless (I had one located
>> here on a previous RV-4 and it suck air out!!)
>
> Heard that before from many builders.
>
> Cheers,
> Randy Lervold
> RV-3 #11375, finish kit
> www.rv-3.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Grieve <mark(at)macomb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail for RV6/6A |
I have most skins and some ribs. I believe that a friend has a spare HS
that is already built.
Mark
FLYNBYK(at)cs.com wrote:
>
>Does anyone out there have a tail for an RV6 or 6A for sale.
>
>Bob Gorman/CA
>flynbyk(at)cs.com
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Alley <n320wt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Spinner Help |
I own and operate Carbon Fiber Composites and
manufacture aircraft parts for experimentals using
carbon fiber. I have several molds for spinners and
back plates. Let me know what you need and I'll quote
you a price.
BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT)
CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES
101 Caroline Circle
Hurricane, WV 25526
304-562-6800 home
How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Alley <n320wt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | bakerocb(at)cox.net |
I own and operate Carbon Fiber Composites and
manufacture aircraft parts for experimentals using
carbon fiber. I have several molds for spinners and
back plates. Let me know what you need and I'll quote
you a price.
BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT)
CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES
101 Caroline Circle
Hurricane, WV 25526
304-562-6800 home
How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Spinner bulkhead indexing |
My Hartzell prop came back from a reseal job today. When I went to
reinstall the spinner, the screw holes in the forward bulkhead no longer
ling up with those in the spinner. Can the forward part of the prop hub,
where the bulkhead is mounted, be re-indexed so things line up again? How?
Thanks,
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "H.Ivan Haecker" <baremetl(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 air vent |
Doug,
I get my air for the front seat from the front of the cowling as Randy
described. I measure about 3 degrees higher than outside using this method.
Much improved over the rear baffle pickup point. For the rear seat, I
retrofitted an under the wing naca style similar to the rv-8. Very nice air
flow and little extra noise. Pictures if needed.
Ivan Haecker -4 1155 hrs. S. Cen. TX (where it's hot)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Weiler" <dcw(at)mnwing.org>
Subject: RV-List: RV-4 air vent
>
> Greetings Listers:
>
> For the RV-4 folks (there must be a couple still around):
>
> I really need to increase the fresh air ventilation in my -4. Right now I
> am taking fresh air off the back baffle and running it through Van's
mixing
> box into the cabin. Plenty of fresh air when in the "cold" mode, but
since
> the air flows through the top of the cowling first, it is about 10 degrees
> above ambient. Not good on a hot day.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stan Jones" <stan.jones(at)xtra.co.nz> |
0.11 HTML_TAG_EXIST_TBODY BODY: HTML has "tbody" tag
0.00 HTML_NONELEMENT_00_10 BODY: 0% to 10% of HTML elements are non-standard
I was going through the drawings for Firewall Forward today, and came across
the term
Sniffel Valve. What is this, and what does it do. Do I need one on my
Superior IO 360
with AFP fuel injection
Stan Jones.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Bigger tires for 6A on grass? |
Fellow listers,
I am trying to determine if there are benefits to going with larger tires/rims
for grass strip use.
I am in the process of relocating to eastern MD / southern DE and there are a bunch
of grass strips out here - with better potential for acquiring hangaring
facilities...
Your thoughts please.
Ralph Capen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Trotter <ptrotter(at)acm.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Bigger tires for 6A on grass? |
Ralph,
I'm planning on putting 6" wheels on my RV-8 for this same reason. I asked
Van about it at SnF and he said no problem except that the standard wheel
pants won't fit. HE suggested that the RV-10 wheel pants might be modified
to fit.
Paul Trotter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Bigger tires for 6A on grass?
>
> Fellow listers,
>
> I am trying to determine if there are benefits to going with larger
tires/rims for grass strip use.
> I am in the process of relocating to eastern MD / southern DE and there
are a bunch of grass strips out here - with better potential for acquiring
hangaring facilities...
>
> Your thoughts please.
>
> Ralph Capen
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Sniffel Valve 0.11 HTML_TAG_EXIST_TBODY BODY: HTML |
has "tbody" tag 0.00 HTML_NONELEMENT_00_10 BODY: 0% to 10% of HTML
elements are non-standard
Stan,
The purpose of the sniffle valve in a fuel-injected engine is to drain
excess or by-pass fuel from the servo that dumps into the engine sump area.
It might not be necessary for your installation. I would check with the AFP
folks.
If your engine is running rough or surging at idle speed, I would guess that
a sniffle valve would alleviate the problem. If you do need it, be aware
that you might encounter interference problems with the exhaust system.
There are different types of sniffle valves available for this purpose.
Your engine provider can probably supply the correct one for you.
Pat Hatch
RV-7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stan Jones
Subject: RV-List: Sniffel Valve 0.11 HTML_TAG_EXIST_TBODY BODY: HTML has
"tbody" tag 0.00 HTML_NONELEMENT_00_10 BODY: 0% to 10% of HTML elements are
non-standard
I was going through the drawings for Firewall Forward today, and came across
the term
Sniffel Valve. What is this, and what does it do. Do I need one on my
Superior IO 360
with AFP fuel injection
Stan Jones.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 air vent |
| From: | Doug Weiler <dcw(at)mnwing.org> |
Yes Ivan, photos would be nice when you get a chance. Randy sent me some of
his installation which may be similar to yours.
Thanks
Doug
On 6/21/05 11:24 PM, "H.Ivan Haecker" wrote:
>
> Doug,
> I get my air for the front seat from the front of the cowling as Randy
> described. I measure about 3 degrees higher than outside using this method.
> Much improved over the rear baffle pickup point. For the rear seat, I
> retrofitted an under the wing naca style similar to the rv-8. Very nice air
> flow and little extra noise. Pictures if needed.
>
> Ivan Haecker -4 1155 hrs. S. Cen. TX (where it's hot)
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Doug Weiler" <dcw(at)mnwing.org>
> To: "RV List"
> Subject: RV-List: RV-4 air vent
>
>
>>
>> Greetings Listers:
>>
>> For the RV-4 folks (there must be a couple still around):
>>
>> I really need to increase the fresh air ventilation in my -4. Right now I
>> am taking fresh air off the back baffle and running it through Van's
> mixing
>> box into the cabin. Plenty of fresh air when in the "cold" mode, but
> since
>> the air flows through the top of the cowling first, it is about 10 degrees
>> above ambient. Not good on a hot day.
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: Bigger tires for 6A on grass? |
Will the 6" axles work on the standard gear legs?
> I'm planning on putting 6" wheels on my RV-8 for this same reason. I asked
> Van about it at SnF and he said no problem except that the standard wheel
> pants won't fit. HE suggested that the RV-10 wheel pants might be modified
> to fit.
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert.v(at)sbcglobal.net> |
HTML has \"tbody\" tag 0.00 HTML_NONELEMENT_00_10 BODY": 0%to.10(at)of.HTML.elements.are.non-standard
| Subject: | Re: Sniffel Valve 0.11 HTML_TAG_EXIST_TBODY BODY: |
HTML has "tbody" tag 0.00 HTML_NONELEMENT_00_10 BODY: 0% to 10% of
HTML elements are non-standard
Stan
Is my understanding that the sniffle valve allows fluids to drain out of
the low point in the induction system. be it water or puddled gas. it is
vacuum operated, in that it closes when there is a vacuum in the
induction system. I.e. it opens when the engine is off.
I bought mine from Aerosport, there are appearantly 2 kinds, one just
drains and drips in-situ and one has a nipple to reroute the drainage
(away from the exhaust) which is what I got.
Gert
Stan Jones wrote:
>
>I was going through the drawings for Firewall Forward today, and came across
>the term
>Sniffel Valve. What is this, and what does it do. Do I need one on my
>Superior IO 360
>with AFP fuel injection
>Stan Jones.
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Derrick Aubuchon <n184da(at)volcano.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 air vent |
Ivan,
If you get a chance, I would also like to see those installation photos.
Thanks,,
Derrick L. Aubuchon
RV-4: N184DA
Jackson/Westover -Amador County (O70)
n184da(at)volcano.net
On Jun 22, 2005, at 6:51 AM, Doug Weiler wrote:
>
> Yes Ivan, photos would be nice when you get a chance. Randy sent
> me some of
> his installation which may be similar to yours.
>
> Thanks
>
> Doug
>
>
> On 6/21/05 11:24 PM, "H.Ivan Haecker" wrote:
>
>
>>
>> Doug,
>> I get my air for the front seat from the front of the cowling as
>> Randy
>> described. I measure about 3 degrees higher than outside using
>> this method.
>> Much improved over the rear baffle pickup point. For the rear seat, I
>> retrofitted an under the wing naca style similar to the rv-8. Very
>> nice air
>> flow and little extra noise. Pictures if needed.
>>
>> Ivan Haecker -4 1155 hrs. S. Cen. TX (where it's hot)
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Doug Weiler" <dcw(at)mnwing.org>
>> To: "RV List"
>> Subject: RV-List: RV-4 air vent
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>> Greetings Listers:
>>>
>>> For the RV-4 folks (there must be a couple still around):
>>>
>>> I really need to increase the fresh air ventilation in my -4.
>>> Right now I
>>> am taking fresh air off the back baffle and running it through Van's
>>>
>> mixing
>>
>>> box into the cabin. Plenty of fresh air when in the "cold" mode,
>>> but
>>>
>> since
>>
>>> the air flows through the top of the cowling first, it is about
>>> 10 degrees
>>> above ambient. Not good on a hot day.
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | I fried my Oil temp, 3 in 1 gauge |
I was washing my engine yesterday and allowed water to get into the cannon plug
for my oil temp probe located just above the oil filter. The indicator didnt
budge. I removed the plug to find the female portion completely filled with
water. I drained the water and replaced the plug to find an indication but not
the correct one. It was reading about 25 degree Celsius low. I then flew for
about a half hour and it went completely dead again. I have a 3 in 1 gauge,
oil temp/press and fuel press. Anyone have an idea how thing works?
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
200 hours
Chicago/Louisville
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel vapors in cockpit |
I cant find a fuel leak. I generally only smell fuel when Im flying aggressively
or in the bumps. It happens with either tank selected. I checked all of the
connections and cant find any signs of the telltale blue fuel. It seems to
be the worst when Im in a steep climb. I cant tell if its a change in airflow
or a change in where the fuel is sitting. Hmmmmm.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
200 hours
Chicago/Louisville
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Trotter <ptrotter(at)acm.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Bigger tires for 6A on grass? |
Mickey,
Generally 6" wheels use a 1.5" axle whereas 5" wheels use a 1.25" axle. I'm
planning to use Grove wheels and they make a 6" wheel that uses a 1.25" axle
that will fit on my Grove gear legs.
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Bigger tires for 6A on grass?
>
> Will the 6" axles work on the standard gear legs?
>
> > I'm planning on putting 6" wheels on my RV-8 for this same reason. I
asked
> > Van about it at SnF and he said no problem except that the standard
wheel
> > pants won't fit. HE suggested that the RV-10 wheel pants might be
modified
> > to fit.
>
>
> --
> Mickey Coggins
> http://www.rv8.ch/
> #82007 Canopy
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6(at)bryantechnology.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel vapors in cockpit |
Is it possible a vent has come loose inside the cockpit?
-------Original Message-------
From: Jeff Dowling
Date: 06/22/05 08:08:15
Subject: RV-List: Fuel vapors in cockpit
I cant find a fuel leak. I generally only smell fuel when Im flying
aggressively or in the bumps. It happens with either tank selected. I
checked all of the connections and cant find any signs of the telltale blue
fuel. It seems to be the worst when Im in a steep climb. I cant tell if
its a change in airflow or a change in where the fuel is sitting. Hmmmmm
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
200 hours
Chicago/Louisville
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson(at)consolidated.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel vapors in cockpit |
Jeff Dowling wrote:
>
>I cant find a fuel leak. I generally only smell fuel when Im flying aggressively
or in the bumps. It happens with either tank selected. I checked all of
the connections and cant find any signs of the telltale blue fuel. It seems to
be the worst when Im in a steep climb. I cant tell if its a change in airflow
or a change in where the fuel is sitting. Hmmmmm.
>
>Shemp/Jeff Dowling
>RV-6A, N915JD
>200 hours
>Chicago/Louisville
>
>
Jeff this is just an opinion, but when in a climb, the air in the fuel
tank will exhale and when in a descent, it will inhale.
Then tank breathes in and out through the vent as the airplane goes up
and down. In a steep climb, it is breathing out at a very high rate. The
air in the tank will expand a lot when climbing. If the tanks were
nearly full and your angle of attack was enough to put the fuel back to
the vent tubes. the small amount of air which would be in the tank
would blow fuel out the vents. Then it would find its way into the
cockpit just like the cold air gets in in the winter. Just an oppinion,
but I bet there are some fluid guys who can go much deeper into this...
A solution would be to run the vent on down the gear leg and run it out
through a small hole in the wheel pants. The Pitts runs theirs down and
turns it back to keep bugs and oncoming trash out of it. This would help
keep the vapors out of the cabin. Other than that, just do a good job
sealing things..
Phil mine stinks too
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sniffel Valve 0.11 HTML_TAG_EXIST_TBODY BODY: HTML |
has "tbody" tag 0.00 HTML_NONELEMENT_00_10 BODY: 0% to 10% of HTML
elements are non-standard
Stan,
Something people haven't mentioned yet is that the sniffle valve is intended
for horizontal (forward-facing) induction sumps. I assume you have a
vertical induction sump? You don't need a sniffle valve on a vertical
setup.
If yours is horizontal, look on the bottom of the sump. If you see a plug
in roughly the center, then you have provisions for a sniffle valve. Should
just be an 1/8-NPT hole. If you have that, and if you want the Lycoming
part number for the valve, lemme know (I don't have my Lyc parts catalog in
front of me at the moment).
I've heard of some people having a horizontal sump without the
drilled/tapped sniffle valve hole...and apparently it's ok to drill and tap
it yourself (I remember reading an email from Mahlon mentioning that). I
personally wouldn't do that on mine, but I guess some people might.
Anyway, there are two styles of Lycoming-proper sniffle valves. Both have
basically the same upper body. It's a wafer/diaphragm that seals when it
gets sucked up by engine vacuum, and allows flow when the wafer falls as the
suction stops. The difference in valve styles is that one style is wide
open below the wafer, and fuel can just dump out -- in our case, that
usually means dripping onto the cowling or worse, the exhaust. The other
style (which I use, and which Van's recommends) has a barb to which you can
attach some hose, and then run the runoff out to where it won't cause any
harm. Van's calls this out on one of the FWF kit drawings for the 200hp
forward-facing setup.
Let me know if you need the part numbers.
Hope this helps,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stan Jones" <stan.jones(at)xtra.co.nz>
Subject: RV-List: Sniffel Valve 0.11 HTML_TAG_EXIST_TBODY BODY: HTML has
"tbody" tag 0.00 HTML_NONELEMENT_00_10 BODY: 0% to 10% of HTML elements are
non-standard
>
> I was going through the drawings for Firewall Forward today, and came
across
> the term
> Sniffel Valve. What is this, and what does it do. Do I need one on my
> Superior IO 360
> with AFP fuel injection
> Stan Jones.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel vapors in cockpit |
How about a small leak in the tank access plate with vapors coming in
through the aileron pushrod hole. Pull the wing root fairings and have
a look.
Jeff Point
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel vapors in cockpit |
Jeff,
I went through this with my RV-8... occasional fuel smell in the cockpit
with no signs of a leak anywhere. Smell seemed to coincide with either full
tanks or flying in the bumps. What I concluded was that fuel was puking out
the fuel vents then flowing past the fuselage and vapors being sucked into
the aft part of the fuselage. It doesn't take much to smell fuel, and the
negative pressure in the aft fuselage area is well documented. I have no
proof of this hypothesis but the circumstances sure seemed to fit.
Randy Lervold
www.rv-3.com
www.rv-8.com
> I cant find a fuel leak. I generally only smell fuel when Im flying
> aggressively or in the bumps. It happens with either tank selected. I
> checked all of the connections and cant find any signs of the telltale
> blue fuel. It seems to be the worst when Im in a steep climb. I cant
> tell if its a change in airflow or a change in where the fuel is sitting.
> Hmmmmm.
>
> Shemp/Jeff Dowling
> RV-6A, N915JD
> 200 hours
> Chicago/Louisville
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 air vent |
Ian, I'd appreciate some pics (e-mail address in header) as I plan to plumb
my RV-3 that way. I have pics of two such installations, but the more
installation ideas the better.
Thanks,
Randy
www.rv-3.com
> Doug,
> I get my air for the front seat from the front of the cowling as Randy
> described. I measure about 3 degrees higher than outside using this
> method.
> Much improved over the rear baffle pickup point. For the rear seat, I
> retrofitted an under the wing naca style similar to the rv-8. Very nice
> air
> flow and little extra noise. Pictures if needed.
>
> Ivan Haecker -4 1155 hrs. S. Cen. TX (where it's hot)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel vapors in cockpit |
Shemp: I don't know if this will help but I had a similar problem at
about 20 hours and finally discovered that my Andair fuel valve was seeping
around one of the square cover plates that are secured with four tiny staked
screws. Tightening and restaking solved the problem.
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 95 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel vapors in cockpit |
The problem is I only smell it occasionally. I would think that if it was a
vent, I would smell it all the time. I don't?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6(at)bryantechnology.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel vapors in cockpit
>
> Is it possible a vent has come loose inside the cockpit?
>
> -------Original Message-------
>
> From: Jeff Dowling
> Date: 06/22/05 08:08:15
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Fuel vapors in cockpit
>
>
>
> I cant find a fuel leak. I generally only smell fuel when Im flying
> aggressively or in the bumps. It happens with either tank selected. I
> checked all of the connections and cant find any signs of the telltale
> blue
> fuel. It seems to be the worst when Im in a steep climb. I cant tell if
> its a change in airflow or a change in where the fuel is sitting. Hmmmmm
>
> Shemp/Jeff Dowling
> RV-6A, N915JD
> 200 hours
> Chicago/Louisville
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel vapors in cockpit |
Wouldn't that eliminate the pressurizing effects of the fuel vents? I
thought that was desirable.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson(at)consolidated.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel vapors in cockpit
>
>
> Jeff Dowling wrote:
>
>>
>>
>>I cant find a fuel leak. I generally only smell fuel when Im flying
>>aggressively or in the bumps. It happens with either tank selected. I
>>checked all of the connections and cant find any signs of the telltale
>>blue fuel. It seems to be the worst when Im in a steep climb. I cant
>>tell if its a change in airflow or a change in where the fuel is sitting.
>>Hmmmmm.
>>
>>Shemp/Jeff Dowling
>>RV-6A, N915JD
>>200 hours
>>Chicago/Louisville
>>
>>
> Jeff this is just an opinion, but when in a climb, the air in the fuel
> tank will exhale and when in a descent, it will inhale.
> Then tank breathes in and out through the vent as the airplane goes up
> and down. In a steep climb, it is breathing out at a very high rate. The
> air in the tank will expand a lot when climbing. If the tanks were
> nearly full and your angle of attack was enough to put the fuel back to
> the vent tubes. the small amount of air which would be in the tank
> would blow fuel out the vents. Then it would find its way into the
> cockpit just like the cold air gets in in the winter. Just an oppinion,
> but I bet there are some fluid guys who can go much deeper into this...
> A solution would be to run the vent on down the gear leg and run it out
> through a small hole in the wheel pants. The Pitts runs theirs down and
> turns it back to keep bugs and oncoming trash out of it. This would help
> keep the vapors out of the cabin. Other than that, just do a good job
> sealing things..
>
> Phil mine stinks too
>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel vapors in cockpit |
I've pulled the left fairing and dont see any blue streaks.
How can I pressurize the tank, slightly, to see if I have a leak? I guess I
can connect a tube to my vent and pump some air but Im afraid of
overpressurizing.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Point" <jpoint(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel vapors in cockpit
>
> How about a small leak in the tank access plate with vapors coming in
> through the aileron pushrod hole. Pull the wing root fairings and have
> a look.
>
> Jeff Point
>
>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel vapors in cockpit |
I also have the Andair valve. Were you able to see blue dye?
----- Original Message -----
From: <HCRV6(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel vapors in cockpit
>
> Shemp: I don't know if this will help but I had a similar problem at
> about 20 hours and finally discovered that my Andair fuel valve was
> seeping
> around one of the square cover plates that are secured with four tiny
> staked
> screws. Tightening and restaking solved the problem.
>
> Harry Crosby
> RV-6 N16CX, 95 hours
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Moore, Warren" <Warren.Moore(at)tidelandsoil.com> |
fwiw, I installed a NACA inlet duct, (sv-1) the plastic one from vans, just
under the cowl cheek on the right side of the fuselage as far forward as
possible, about 1.5 inches back from the firewall. I ran a lenght of 2"
scat tube to an aluminum I-ball vent mounted on the lower right side of the
panel. The scat tube really doesn't get in the way of your leg, which was
one concern I had. Been flying now for a whole 4 hrs...but getting plenty
of air. Would do it again. I also put a NACA duct on the bottom of the
right wing, per the RV8, and ran a scat tube to the back seat, and put a
vent (Vans vent sv5) right next to the rear stick. I also used a "T"
fitting to split off a 2" scat tube to the front seat, and put another vent
next to the fuel selector. I ran this scat tube where the plans call for
the rear seat heating tube, only ran it backwards....so no heat to the rear
seat. So when flying solo, I close the rear seat vent and let it blast
through the front on my stomach, so I have two vents in the front and
getting plenty of air.
Warren Moore
RV-4, still test flying
Cable Airport, Ca.
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TlRTL0NOPVdBUlJFTiBNT09SRQAeAPg/AQAAAA4AAABNb29yZSwgV2FycmVuAAAAHgA4QAEAAAAN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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert.v(at)sbcglobal.net> |
HTML has \"tbody\" tag 0.00 HTML_NONELEMENT_00_10 BODY": 0%to.10(at)of.HTML.elements.are.non-standard
| Subject: | Re: Sniffel Valve 0.11 HTML_TAG_EXIST_TBODY BODY: |
HTML has "tbody" tag 0.00 HTML_NONELEMENT_00_10 BODY: 0% to 10% of
HTML elements are non-standard
Dan Checkoway wrote:
>Anyway, there are two styles of Lycoming-proper sniffle valves. Both have
>basically the same upper body.
>
Dan
When I called Lycoming a few months ago, discussing this item they were
kinda adament I make sure I get the one for a normally aspired engine as
many are out there intended for turbo'd engines and close on manifold
pressure over ambient. They also wanted to know what airframe the engine
was hanging from and did not tell me squat after I told them it was a
RV. I was a bit supprised at that attetude as I have had very good/nice
responses from Lycoming on other subjects and theye were very helpfull
in the past.
I ended up talking to Bart LaLonde and got one from him.
just a data point.
>
>is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brad Oliver <brad(at)rv7factory.com> |
| Subject: | GretzAero Electric Trim Kit |
While doing research the other day I came across some old posts in the
archive referencing the GretzAero Electric Trim Kit. The concept
intrigued me and I dug a little deeper and, but I have some
questions...
1) By moving the trim servo out of the elevator, GretzAero touts an
overall weight reduction. Anybody who is using this know how much
weight? Does it also change the feel of the elevator? If so, in a
good or bad way?
2) Objectively, is this mod a good idea, or is it simply a perceived
improvement? I am interested in hearing comparisons of the factory
electric trim to the GretzAero set-up, not to manual trim, and I don't
want to start making mods unless there is real value.
3) GretzAero says the kit is best for aircraft originally built with
manual trim, however I purchased my RV-7 emp kit with electric trim,
but haven't constructed the elevator(s) yet. Is this mod (kit)
something that can be installed using the factory trim servo and parts?
I have attempted to contact GretzAero directly, but they have not
responded to my inquiry.
Thanks,
Brad Oliver
RV-7
Livermore, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel vapors in cockpit |
>
>Jeff,
>
>I went through this with my RV-8... occasional fuel smell in the cockpit
>with no signs of a leak anywhere. Smell seemed to coincide with either full
>tanks or flying in the bumps. What I concluded was that fuel was puking out
>the fuel vents then flowing past the fuselage and vapors being sucked into
>the aft part of the fuselage. It doesn't take much to smell fuel, and the
>negative pressure in the aft fuselage area is well documented. I have no
>proof of this hypothesis but the circumstances sure seemed to fit.
>
>Randy Lervold
>www.rv-3.com
>www.rv-8.com
>
Same thing with my RV8. Only happens on full tanks, or while flying in
rough air. I've never found any signs of leakage inside the cabin around
the fuel selector or boost pump. I reckon the airplane thinks the tank
vents are relief tubes and when you gotta go, you gotta go!
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | RV-4 NACA vent installation pic |
See weblink. Case sensitive. Will ask the builder how well it works
but I believe it is good.
Ron Lee
http://home.pcisys.net/~ronlee/RV4NACA.JPG
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rveighta <rveighta(at)earthlink.net> |
I have the following items for sale which are left over from my 8A & 8 projects:
1. Whelen strobe system 2 (includes two A490A, TS, CF Power supplies; two A600-PG
PR wingtip strobe lights;
and 2 HT installation kits with instructions. All like new in box - never
used. New price at ACS $955, I will take
$800 for all.
2. Softcomm ATC-2P panel mount intercom complete with wiring harness, jacks, drawings
& instructions. Never
used. New price at ACS $173.95, will sell for $120.
3. Lightspeed 20K ANR headset. Bought new in '97. It had a "squeal" in it - sent
off to factory and they repaired
4/22/04. Not used since. Very good condition. Sell for $100
4. Standard three lever throttle/mixture/prop quadrant from Van's. Never used
- cost $45 new, sell for $25
5. Tach transducer from Van's for system without vacuum pump. Cost $60, take $35.
6. Van's ammeter w/shunt. Paid $51, take $30.
7. Whelen post lights (2) (clear) Cost at aircraft spruce 70.60, take $50
8. Westach Single CHT gauge. New cost $35.30, sell for $20.
Please email if you are interested or give me a call at: (423) 257-6566.
Walt Shipley
9. Westach Single EGT gauge. New cost $35.30, sell for $20
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean" <dvanwinkle(at)royell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel vapors in cockpit |
Jeff
If you do find a way to pressurize your tank, I would not recommend much
more than one psi. That is what I used when leak checking my tanks ( approx
27 inches differential on a simple plastic tube water manometer ). That was
enough to see definite deflection of the tank skin between the ribs. One
builder reported using four psi and suffered permanent deformation of his
tank.
Dean Van Winkle
RV-9A Fuselage/Finish
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel vapors in cockpit
>
> I've pulled the left fairing and dont see any blue streaks.
>
> How can I pressurize the tank, slightly, to see if I have a leak? I guess
I
> can connect a tube to my vent and pump some air but Im afraid of
> overpressurizing.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jeff Point" <jpoint(at)mindspring.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel vapors in cockpit
>
>
> >
> > How about a small leak in the tank access plate with vapors coming in
> > through the aileron pushrod hole. Pull the wing root fairings and have
> > a look.
> >
> > Jeff Point
> >
> >
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SCOTT SPENCER <aerokinetic(at)sbcglobal.net> |
>>>Doug,
I get my air for the front seat from the front of the cowling as Randy
described. I measure about 3 degrees higher than outside using this method.
Much improved over the rear baffle pickup point. For the rear seat, I
retrofitted an under the wing naca style similar to the rv-8. Very nice air
flow and little extra noise. Pictures if needed.
>> Ivan Haecker -4 1155 hrs. S. Cen. TX (where it's hot)
This is exactly the same setup I have on my -4... I constructed a smaller NACA
myself out of fiberglass for the underwing inlet -uses 1.75" scat and works very
well. The underwing inlet is just aft of the pitot tube location aft of the
spar and outboard of any exhaust.
I also added a VAN's NACA under the left cowl cheek just aft of the firewall and
installed it with proseal. It's the very best -brings in *plenty* of air and
it's not warmed at all by the engine like the air from the engine inlet. In fact,
I think there is enough air to tee off to two separate Wemac vents from the
one inlet.
On top of all this, I also have a closeable NACA in the canopy skirt by the passenger's
right shoulder... It works okay, but mostly blows air behind the passenger
-even with a little deflector working to angle the air.
Scott
N4ZW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: Bigger tires for 6A on grass? |
> Generally 6" wheels use a 1.5" axle whereas 5" wheels use a 1.25" axle. I'm
> planning to use Grove wheels and they make a 6" wheel that uses a 1.25" axle
> that will fit on my Grove gear legs.
Ahh, I didn't know they had that product. I've got the Grove gear
as well, and it's nice to know I have that as an option. Switzerland
is about 50% grass strips.
Thanks,
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stan Jones" <stan.jones(at)xtra.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel vapors in cockpit |
Jeff, Vans sells a kit, just a few dollars, a valve goes on your fuel drain
plug, a balloon on your vent,
Duct tape over your fuel cap. When the balloon inflates you will have a
positive pressure of just a pound or so.
Get some mixture from the toy shop that kids make bubbles with, and paint it
over your suspected leaks.
I used the Vans kit and it works well.
Stan Jones
-------Original Message-------
From: Jeff Dowling
Date: 06/23/05 05:37:57
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel vapors in cockpit
I've pulled the left fairing and dont see any blue streaks.
How can I pressurize the tank, slightly, to see if I have a leak? I guess I
can connect a tube to my vent and pump some air but Im afraid of
overpressurizing.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Point" <jpoint(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel vapors in cockpit
>
> How about a small leak in the tank access plate with vapors coming in
> through the aileron pushrod hole. Pull the wing root fairings and have
> a look.
>
> Jeff Point
>
>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry E. James" <larry(at)ncproto.com> |
SpamAssassin (score=-2.563, required 4, autolearn=not spam, AWL 0.04,
BAYES_00 -2.60)
Has anyone put a second naca duct under the left wing (like
the RV-8) and routed it to the front seat for fresh air ??
--
Larry E. James
Bellevue, WA HR2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HalBenjamin(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 air vent |
In a message dated 6/22/2005 2:36:46 AM Eastern Standard Time,
baremetl(at)gvtc.com writes:
> Doug,
> I get my air for the front seat from the front of the cowling as Randy
> described. I measure about 3 degrees higher than outside using this method.
> Much improved over the rear baffle pickup point. For the rear seat, I
> retrofitted an under the wing naca style similar to the rv-8. Very nice air
> flow and little extra noise. Pictures if needed.
>
> Ivan Haecker -4 1155 hrs. S. Cen. TX (where it's hot)
>
>
Hi Ivan,
I'm fishing for ideas to cool my RV-4 as well. Sounds like you've got what
I've been thinking about doing. Could you upload photos to the list?
Thanks,
Hal Benjamin RV-4
Long Island, New York
Standing on head in fuselage stage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn(at)cox.net> |
I've been flying tour helicopters up there lately and was surprised at the amount
of big iron that is in and out of there. The other day 2 different G4's, a
Tri star, CJ's and lots of Turbo props.
The big deal at Sedona is the DA. I haven't been up this week but last week we
had a DA of 8900 ft. Lots of fun with a fully loaded helicopter!!!! Thank God
for those tranient temp limits.
Darwin N. BArrie
P19
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Cowl Camlocs, Brakeline brackets |
Two questions:
Camlocs-Those who put them on your epoxy type S cowl..... Did you epoxy or
glass in a metal reinforcing strip underneath (or above) the area where you
put the holes for the camlocs? If so how thick of a strip did you use? Did
you just epoxy the strip to the back of the cowl or did you put a layer of
glass cloth over it too? Or is this seemingly thin fiberglass tough enough
to take those point loads all by itself? I'm using 4 inch spacing on the
camlocs.
Brakelines-I just installed the flex lines that go from the master cylinders
to the firewall bracket (tri gear RV-6). Surprise, surprise......things are
very tight there and the hoses touch the .063 firewall angle stiffeners that
meet above the bracket. I rechecked the plans and....I made and installed
the bracket correctly. But, I'm afraid the hoses will chafe and I'll have
fluid all over the floor. I'm not a happy camper about that but I've got
them installed and it's per plans so I'm really not inclined to make
modifications right now. Good idea to leave as is or not? I didn't find
much about this in the archives so I assume people are living with it. You
tri-gear 6s, has this been a problem? If yes how did you fix?
Thanks for all the help
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Paneling and trying to finish cowling
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stan Jones" <stan.jones(at)xtra.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Just names and no faces |
It is only about a month til OshKosh, and I know a lot of you will be there.
I have been on this list for about three years, and have read all the words,
and
digested the opinions. I will be there for the third time, all the way from
New Zealand,
and I would realy enjoy putting a face to all the names
Would it not be a good idea to have a bit of a get together, to have a drink
perhaps
something to eat, and tell a lot of lies.
Perhaps someone with a bit of local knowledge could take this up, and
suggest a venue.
There are lots of eating places to consider, or we could even stoop to Kelly
s Bar.
Is there any enthusiasm for this idea ?
Stan Jones
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Gray <dgra1233(at)bigpond.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel vapors in cockpit |
Your vent tubes do continue all the way up to the fuselage longeron (or higher)
before going back
down to the ports dont they? If they don't an aggressive sideslip or descent
will cause fuel to
spill out of the vents.
Doug Gray
Jeff Dowling wrote:
>
> I cant find a fuel leak. I generally only smell fuel when Im flying aggressively
or in the bumps. It happens with either tank selected. I checked all of
the connections and cant find any signs of the telltale blue fuel. It seems
to be the worst when Im in a steep climb. I cant tell if its a change in airflow
or a change in where the fuel is sitting. Hmmmmm.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Vapors in Cockpit |
I had a similiar problem with my RV-6A. I found that the rudder cables on both
sides had sawed through the vent lines inside the cockpit.
The first thing to do is to get some light under the panel and look very carefully
at the location where the rudder cables come by the fuel vent lines. I found
the problem only after I had removed one tank and put an air pressue hose
on the vent line connection from the tank and covered the vent line exit underneat
the fuselage. My buddy who was inside the cockpit could then hear the air
coming through where the rudder cable had cut the vent line on that side and
was able to put his finger over the hole and feel the air coming out. Visual
inspection on the other side showed the same problem.
We then cut out the damaged portion of the vent lines and installed a splice, and
then fabricated a bracket to hold the rudder cable away from the vent lines
in the future.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rveighta <rveighta(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Items for sale Part II |
To those of you inquiring about my 20K headset, it along with the three lever quadrant,
have been sold.
I have done a little more research on the Whelen strobe system and find that you
can buy the same
thing from Van's for $851 (it's $955 at ACS) - accordingly I'm reducing the price
to $725, OBO.
Walt Shipley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Just names and no faces |
I did just this same thing about 3 years ago. I think 6 showed up at the
prescribed time. Might be fetter, I think, to get a readable name badge and
just walk around and let others see you and you them (if they have a name
badge on). On the other hand, meeting at high noon at the theater in the
woods would work. How about Thursday at high noon? Going to Van's dinner
is another good one to attend.
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip Up It Flies 36 hrs out of 40 testing is done.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stan Jones" <stan.jones(at)xtra.co.nz>
Subject: RV-List: Just names and no faces
>
> It is only about a month til OshKosh, and I know a lot of you will be
> there.
> I have been on this list for about three years, and have read all the
> words,
> and
> digested the opinions. I will be there for the third time, all the way
> from
> New Zealand,
> and I would realy enjoy putting a face to all the names
> Would it not be a good idea to have a bit of a get together, to have a
> drink
> perhaps
> something to eat, and tell a lot of lies.
> Perhaps someone with a bit of local knowledge could take this up, and
> suggest a venue.
> There are lots of eating places to consider, or we could even stoop to
> Kelly
> s Bar.
> Is there any enthusiasm for this idea ?
> Stan Jones
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Mcmahon" <rv6(at)earthlink.net> |
"JIMMY EDWARDS" ,
"DOUG ESHELMAN" , "Tom Eyssen" ,
"Dave Hudgins" ,
"Janet" ,
"CHUCK JENKJINS" , ,
"BILL LOGUE" , "Mancini" ,
"Joe Mckervey" ,
"JOHN MILLER" ,
"ALLEN MOLLEYHORN" ,
"Piper, Gary" , ,
"EDD \(2003\) TECK" , "TOBY" ,
"Tommy Walker" ,
"Winans, Dave W" ,
"JOHN WOODALL"
| Subject: | First Flight N863JJ |
First flight of Kit #22411 RV6 at Portland,Tn (1M5) on the 22nd at 0732..This
was a 13 year project,the old
slow kit ..Thanks to the RV list,Gary V, and Sam B's Web site..I used the EAA
first flight guide lines,which
is a must do if you can...Flight time was only 20 min,but SWEET...Mistakes that
I made!!!
1Check everything 3 times in the Eng,oil line,gas lines,etc...
2Hart C/S got ahead of me when it un/loaded on take off(2780) WHEW
After take off,stayed in the pattern and trim out and say to myself (WOW)...did
I do this..(JAMES 1:17)
Then things started to change after about 18 min,the VM1000 oil pressure gauge
which was 80#
was showing a TREND down,76,1 min later 71,65,60,53, radio to ground crew coming
down ,landed
3 point ,and when it slowed down in the roll out I see smoke but I still have oil
pressure 38#
shut it down in front of the hanger and this plane looks like a Red chili pepper
dipped it olive oil!!
Lift top Cowl ,open top of plenum cover and the flange to the prop gov line loose....This
has never
leaked at any point doing run ups etc(check every line 3 times with a wrench)I
had put 7 qts in just
in case!!It dumped 3 Qts pretty sudden..
I have made the prop hub adj fine pitch ..put in the 3 qts and ready to go up again
....Oh well
thats why they call it first test flight!!!
The what I have so far info..
Eng is 0360 A1A Aero sport Lightspeed right side
Empty weight1142
Inst PanelLaird Owens
Seats and uplDJ
Harts C/S
GraphicsFreedom Graphics
Paint GuyMe
Primer sealer Epoxy Dupont 2510s
PPG DBU base coat Torch Red (Vette Red)
PPG clear 2021
Some Pic
http://www.3gunmatch.com/rv6/rv6.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Just names and no faces |
A couple of years ago I hosted a BBQ for 7 builders and I am hosting the 2nd
one at OSH on Wednesday July 27th starting at 6pm. It'll be in Camp
Scholler. Basically, soft drinks, beer and hot dog. I'm planning this year
on renting a second campsite so we'llhave enough room. Bring your own
chairs. There'll be a tip jar to help defray the cost ($5 maximum depending
on how much beer your consume).
Families are welcome but we discourage rugrats.
There'll be a Web site posted within a week or so with more details.
The idea came for this from the GlaStar group which a few years ago started
a hot dog social. It was a great idea. And we had great fun two years ago.
Bob Collins
St. Paul
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of LarryRobertHelming
Subject: Re: RV-List: Just names and no faces
-->
I did just this same thing about 3 years ago. I think 6 showed up at the
prescribed time. Might be fetter, I think, to get a readable name badge and
just walk around and let others see you and you them (if they have a name
badge on). On the other hand, meeting at high noon at the theater in the
woods would work. How about Thursday at high noon? Going to Van's dinner
is another good one to attend.
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip Up It Flies 36 hrs out of 40 testing is done.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stan Jones" <stan.jones(at)xtra.co.nz>
Subject: RV-List: Just names and no faces
>
> It is only about a month til OshKosh, and I know a lot of you will be
> there.
> I have been on this list for about three years, and have read all the
> words,
> and
> digested the opinions. I will be there for the third time, all the way
> from
> New Zealand,
> and I would realy enjoy putting a face to all the names
> Would it not be a good idea to have a bit of a get together, to have a
> drink
> perhaps
> something to eat, and tell a lot of lies.
> Perhaps someone with a bit of local knowledge could take this up, and
> suggest a venue.
> There are lots of eating places to consider, or we could even stoop to
> Kelly
> s Bar.
> Is there any enthusiasm for this idea ?
> Stan Jones
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | First Flight N863JJ |
Congratulations John!
All those years have finally paid off. Im sure there were times when you
thought this project would never get done and here you are now, flying.
Youre an inspiration to us all.
I also love the paint job.
Happy flying
From: "John Mcmahon" <rv6(at)earthlink.net>
"JIMMY EDWARDS" , "DOUG ESHELMAN"
, "Tom Eyssen" , "Dave
Hudgins" , "Janet"
, "CHUCK JENKJINS"
, , "BILL LOGUE"
, "Mancini" , "Joe Mckervey"
, "JOHN MILLER" ,
"ALLEN MOLLEYHORN" , "Piper, Gary"
, , "EDD (2003)
TECK" , "TOBY" , "Tommy Walker"
, "Winans, Dave W" ,
"JOHN WOODALL"
Subject: RV-List: First Flight N863JJ
Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2005 07:49:19 -0500
First flight of Kit #22411 RV6 at Portland,Tn (1M5) on the 22nd at
0732..This was a 13 year project,the old
slow kit ..Thanks to the RV list,Gary V, and Sam B's Web site..I used the
EAA first flight guide lines,which
is a must do if you can...Flight time was only 20 min,but SWEET...Mistakes
that I made!!!
1Check everything 3 times in the Eng,oil line,gas lines,etc...
2Hart C/S got ahead of me when it un/loaded on take off(2780) WHEW
After take off,stayed in the pattern and trim out and say to myself
(WOW)...did I do this..(JAMES 1:17)
Then things started to change after about 18 min,the VM1000 oil pressure
gauge which was 80#
was showing a TREND down,76,1 min later 71,65,60,53, radio to ground crew
coming down ,landed
3 point ,and when it slowed down in the roll out I see smoke but I still
have oil pressure 38#
shut it down in front of the hanger and this plane looks like a Red chili
pepper dipped it olive oil!!
Lift top Cowl ,open top of plenum cover and the flange to the prop gov line
loose....This has never
leaked at any point doing run ups etc(check every line 3 times with a
wrench)I had put 7 qts in just
in case!!It dumped 3 Qts pretty sudden..
I have made the prop hub adj fine pitch ..put in the 3 qts and ready to go
up again ....Oh well
thats why they call it first test flight!!!
The what I have so far info..
Eng is 0360 A1A Aero sport Lightspeed right side
Empty weight1142
Inst PanelLaird Owens
Seats and uplDJ
Harts C/S
GraphicsFreedom Graphics
Paint GuyMe
Primer sealer Epoxy Dupont 2510s
PPG DBU base coat Torch Red (Vette Red)
PPG clear 2021
Some Pic
http://www.3gunmatch.com/rv6/rv6.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Mcmahon" <rv6(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowl Camlocs, Brakeline brackets |
Dean
I used Sky-Bolt Cowl fastners the best,check
out some pic
John
http://www.3gunmatch.com/rv6/rv6.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net>
Subject: RV-List: Cowl Camlocs, Brakeline brackets
>
>
>
> Two questions:
>
> Camlocs-Those who put them on your epoxy type S cowl..... Did you epoxy or
> glass in a metal reinforcing strip underneath (or above) the area where
> you
> put the holes for the camlocs? If so how thick of a strip did you use?
> Did
> you just epoxy the strip to the back of the cowl or did you put a layer of
> glass cloth over it too? Or is this seemingly thin fiberglass tough
> enough
> to take those point loads all by itself? I'm using 4 inch spacing on the
> camlocs.
>
> Brakelines-I just installed the flex lines that go from the master
> cylinders
> to the firewall bracket (tri gear RV-6). Surprise, surprise......things
> are
> very tight there and the hoses touch the .063 firewall angle stiffeners
> that
> meet above the bracket. I rechecked the plans and....I made and installed
> the bracket correctly. But, I'm afraid the hoses will chafe and I'll have
> fluid all over the floor. I'm not a happy camper about that but I've got
> them installed and it's per plans so I'm really not inclined to make
> modifications right now. Good idea to leave as is or not? I didn't find
> much about this in the archives so I assume people are living with it.
> You
> tri-gear 6s, has this been a problem? If yes how did you fix?
>
> Thanks for all the help
>
> Dean Psiropoulos
> RV-6A N197DM
> Paneling and trying to finish cowling
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson(at)consolidated.net> |
| Subject: | Fond Du Lac socializing ???? |
Will there be anything like the following happening in F'D'L' ?
Bob Collins wrote:
>
>A couple of years ago I hosted a BBQ for 7 builders and I am hosting the 2nd
>one at OSH on Wednesday July 27th starting at 6pm. It'll be in Camp
>Scholler. Basically, soft drinks, beer and hot dog. I'm planning this year
>on renting a second campsite so we'llhave enough room. Bring your own
>chairs. There'll be a tip jar to help defray the cost ($5 maximum depending
>on how much beer your consume).
>
>Families are welcome but we discourage rugrats.
>
>There'll be a Web site posted within a week or so with more details.
>
>The idea came for this from the GlaStar group which a few years ago started
>a hot dog social. It was a great idea. And we had great fun two years ago.
>
>Bob Collins
>St. Paul
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight N863JJ |
John Mcmahon wrote:
>
> First flight of Kit #22411 RV6 at Portland,Tn (1M5) on the 22nd at 0732..This
was a 13 year project,the old
> slow kit ..Thanks to the RV list,Gary V, and Sam B's Web site..I used the EAA
first flight guide lines,which
> is a must do if you can...Flight time was only 20 min,but SWEET...
Gorgeous airplane, John! Congratulations on the entry into the flight
phase of your project (these planes are never "finished"!) and I look
forward to seeing your -6 on the line at Lebanon. :-)
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DOUGPFLYRV(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: bakerocb(at)cox.net |
BRIAN, I AM INTERESTED IN RV10 PANEL AND CENTER CONSOLE. JUST STARTED 10 SO
HAVE LOTS OF TIME. IF U GET INTO THAT ARENA DROP ME AN EMAIL.
THANKS,
DOUG
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6(at)bryantechnology.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight N863JJ |
John,
Very Nice! good luck and enjoy the flying time. I am not quite there yet
but close enough to taste it. 15 years in the making of a really slow build
RV-6
Tim
-------Original Message-------
From: John Mcmahon
Date: 06/23/05 05:53:58
Eyssen; Dave Hudgins; Janet; CHUCK JENKJINS; KECoats(at)aol.com; BILL LOGUE;
Mancini; Joe Mckervey; JOHN MILLER; ALLEN MOLLEYHORN; Piper, Gary;
rv6-list(at)matronics.com; EDD \(2003\) TECK; TOBY; Tommy Walker; Winans, Dave
W; JOHN WOODALL
Subject: RV-List: First Flight N863JJ
First flight of Kit #22411 RV6 at Portland,Tn (1M5) on the 22nd at 0732.
This was a 13 year project,the old
slow kit ..Thanks to the RV list,Gary V, and Sam B's Web site..I used the
EAA first flight guide lines,which
is a must do if you can...Flight time was only 20 min,but SWEET...Mistakes
that I made!!!
1Check everything 3 times in the Eng,oil line,gas lines,etc...
2Hart C/S got ahead of me when it un/loaded on take off(2780) WHEW
After take off,stayed in the pattern and trim out and say to myself (WOW)..
did I do this..(JAMES 1:17)
Then things started to change after about 18 min,the VM1000 oil pressure
gauge which was 80#
was showing a TREND down,76,1 min later 71,65,60,53, radio to ground crew
coming down ,landed
3 point ,and when it slowed down in the roll out I see smoke but I still
have oil pressure 38#
shut it down in front of the hanger and this plane looks like a Red chili
pepper dipped it olive oil!!
Lift top Cowl ,open top of plenum cover and the flange to the prop gov line
loose....This has never
leaked at any point doing run ups etc(check every line 3 times with a
wrench)I had put 7 qts in just
in case!!It dumped 3 Qts pretty sudden..
I have made the prop hub adj fine pitch ..put in the 3 qts and ready to go
up again ....Oh well
thats why they call it first test flight!!!
The what I have so far info..
Eng is 0360 A1A Aero sport Lightspeed right side
Empty weight1142
Inst PanelLaird Owens
Seats and uplDJ
Harts C/S
GraphicsFreedom Graphics
Paint GuyMe
Primer sealer Epoxy Dupont 2510s
PPG DBU base coat Torch Red (Vette Red)
PPG clear 2021
Some Pic
http://www.3gunmatch.com/rv6/rv6.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Fw: Fw: Wheel fairings installation |
----- Original Message -----
From: Barnes, Tom
Subject: Re: Fw: Wheel fairings installation
Sending this for another RV-6 builder.
I'm not subscribed to the list at the moment. Would you please ask
if anyone has actually measured the gear leg angle difference between suspended
and not-suspended fuselage.
Thanks,
Tom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight N863JJ |
In a message dated 6/23/2005 5:52:27 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
rv6(at)earthlink.net writes:
First flight of Kit #22411 RV6 at Portland,Tn (1M5) on the 22nd at
0732..This was a 13 year project,the old
slow kit ..Thanks to the RV list,Gary V, and Sam B's Web site..I used the
EAA first flight guide lines,which
is a must do if you can...Flight time was only 20 min,but SWEET
==============================
Good job, John! It was my pleasure. Hope to see you and your new airplane
at OSH.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 755hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Marshall" <tony(at)lambros.com> |
| Subject: | RV6 Whelen Stobes |
Have Whelen strobes on my 6. Noticed the other day that the left wing
strobe comes on initially, then dies out. The tail, and right wing strobes
work fine. Mine are the type that include the nav lights in the wingtip
light assembly....all nav lights work fine. I pulled the left wingtip to
see if by lucky chance my system had the wingtip power supply...no....all
light units are wired to a common power source. I didnt built the plane.
Am I correct in assuming this is a power supply problem, or could it be the
strobe light itself. Have thought about taking the one off the other
wingtip and seeing how it acted when plugged into the faulty one....then
thought, why not just ask to see if anyone knows. Thanks for any
assistance.
Tony Marshall
RV6
Polson, MT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bigger tires for 6A on grass? |
Paul, Mickey,
The Grove 6" with the 1.25 axial will NOT work because it is too wide. I called
Grove aircraft about their rim, it is too wide to fit on a stock RV axial. The
6" tire on a 1.25 axial is for a Piper Cub conversion. They threw out some guessing
and was told that special gear legs where made at one time? (I checked
and doubt either are possible, have ever happened or would be easy to do.)
I called the Guy who makes Van's gear and asked him about a special batch of gears
legs he once made, as I was told. He did not recall ever making them or may
be a long time ago.
Someone suggested / guessed that may be an adapter or axial extension could be
made. Has anyone done this?
Bottom line that is not going to happen unless you have some money for custom gear
legs. There are no bolt on aircraft wheels that will fit the RV and take a
6" tire.
As far as adapters? Don't know but I guess you could sleeve the stock gear and
increase the diameter and length of the axial to accommodate 6" rims, which use
1.5" dia axial. Not sure how you would do that? Obviously welding would be a
NO NO.
Mickey you are building a RV-8? The RV-8 uses a bolt on axial to gear leg? I think
you have a different situation in that case as all the other RV's have a single
gear leg and axial made from one piece of steel, so axial changes are not
possible without replacing the whole gear leg. If the RV-8 has a removable bold-on
axial like some Cessna's, this would be easy to convert with a bolt on
axial of the proper size.
Any one want to make some custom rims?
Cheers George
>Mickey,
>Generally 6" wheels use a 1.5" axle whereas 5" wheels use a 1.25" axle.
I'm
>planning to use Grove wheels and they make a 6" wheel that uses a 1.25"
axle
>that will fit on my Grove gear legs.
>
>Paul
---------------------------------
Rekindle the Rivalries. Sign up for Fantasy Football
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Trotter <ptrotter(at)acm.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Bigger tires for 6A on grass? |
George,
The RV-8 uses a totally different style of gear leg than all other RVs. It
has a bolt on axle that bolts to a flat vertical surface on the gear leg. I
checked with Grove and you can put their 1.25" axle (P/N 5015) and their 6"
wheels (P/N 65-1) on the RV-8 gear legs, at least the gear legs they make
(which Mickey and I have) which is my current plan.. I expect this axle and
wheels will also work on the stock Van's RV-8 gear leg, but I did not check
this.
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re: Bigger tires for 6A on grass?
>
> Paul, Mickey,
>
> The Grove 6" with the 1.25 axial will NOT work because it is too wide. I
called Grove aircraft about their rim, it is too wide to fit on a stock RV
axial. The 6" tire on a 1.25 axial is for a Piper Cub conversion. They threw
out some guessing and was told that special gear legs where made at one
time? (I checked and doubt either are possible, have ever happened or would
be easy to do.)
>
> I called the Guy who makes Van's gear and asked him about a special batch
of gears legs he once made, as I was told. He did not recall ever making
them or may be a long time ago.
>
> Someone suggested / guessed that may be an adapter or axial extension
could be made. Has anyone done this?
>
> Bottom line that is not going to happen unless you have some money for
custom gear legs. There are no bolt on aircraft wheels that will fit the RV
and take a 6" tire.
>
> As far as adapters? Don't know but I guess you could sleeve the stock gear
and increase the diameter and length of the axial to accommodate 6" rims,
which use 1.5" dia axial. Not sure how you would do that? Obviously welding
would be a NO NO.
>
> Mickey you are building a RV-8? The RV-8 uses a bolt on axial to gear leg?
I think you have a different situation in that case as all the other RV's
have a single gear leg and axial made from one piece of steel, so axial
changes are not possible without replacing the whole gear leg. If the RV-8
has a removable bold-on axial like some Cessna's, this would be easy to
convert with a bolt on axial of the proper size.
>
>
> Any one want to make some custom rims?
>
> Cheers George
>
>
> >Mickey,
>
> >Generally 6" wheels use a 1.5" axle whereas 5" wheels use a 1.25"
axle. I'm
> >planning to use Grove wheels and they make a 6" wheel that uses a
1.25" axle
> >that will fit on my Grove gear legs.
> >
> >Paul
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Rekindle the Rivalries. Sign up for Fantasy Football
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight N863JJ |
> First flight of Kit #22411 RV6 at Portland,Tn (1M5) on the 22nd at 0732..
Congrats! Beautiful airplane, but it's no fair taking pictures
with the paint still wet! :-)
Cool name, too.
Best regards,
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowl Camlocs, Brakeline brackets |
Dean,
I didn't put any metal in around the firewall perimeter, and have had no
problems. Along the cowl sides I did rivet and bond in a strip to
reinforce the F glass, which was pretty thin and had pretty poor edge
distance in this area. I think I used .032 IIRC.
Some pics at:
http://home.mindspring.com/~rv6/RV6site/plenum.htm
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee WI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel vapors in cockpit |
In a message dated 6/22/05 9:55:29 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net writes:
> I also have the Andair valve. Were you able to see blue dye?
>
Yes, finally. In my case it was the front plate, which is blocked from easy
view by the wire bundles running down my old style center console. BTW, the
fuel smell was intermittent in my case also. I removed the valve and
retightened all the screws.
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 96 hours.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GMC <gmcnutt(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6 Whelen Stobes |
Can you just swap plugs (wires) on the power supply to trouble shoot the
strobe bulbs?
George in Langley BC
>
>Tony Marshall wrote:
>
>Have Whelen strobes on my 6. Noticed the other day that the left wing
>strobe comes on initially, then dies out. The tail, and right wing strobes
>work fine. Am I correct in assuming this is a power supply problem, or could
it be the strobe light itself.
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: First Flight N863JJ |
Congrats John. You're gonna love it.
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 96 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel vapors in cockpit |
I had my big nose right up against the valve (with bp on just for the hell
of it) and couldnt smell a thing. I wiped all of the connections with a
white rag and came up clean. Im thinking its probably come from the vents.
I may try to attach some tubing to the vents and run them down and away like
another lister suggested.
----- Original Message -----
From: <HCRV6(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel vapors in cockpit
>
> In a message dated 6/22/05 9:55:29 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
> shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net writes:
>
>
>> I also have the Andair valve. Were you able to see blue dye?
>>
> Yes, finally. In my case it was the front plate, which is blocked from
> easy
> view by the wire bundles running down my old style center console. BTW,
> the
> fuel smell was intermittent in my case also. I removed the valve and
> retightened all the screws.
>
> Harry Crosby
> RV-6 N16CX, 96 hours.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | al.herron(at)Aerojet.com (Herron, Al) |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel vapors in cockpitFuel vapors in cockpit |
I happened to be talking to our local EAA Tech Counselor last weekend
about pressurizing fuel tanks. He suggests putting a toy rubber balloon
on a fitting (could be a tee in your input pressure line). You don't
want much pressure, maybe enough to half-inflate the balloon. The
balloon will give you a visual indicator of a leak (by slowly deflating)
plus serve as a safety valve - the balloon will burst way before your
aluminum tank will.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Galati <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Low oil pressure event |
Upon start-up, my brand new Lycoming O-320-D1A quickly achieves adequate oil pressure
at 650 RPM idle and remains well within acceptable limits throughout a
given flight......that is until I retard the throttle to idle either for stalls,
simulated engine out, or on final approach. The VM-1000 engine monitor quickly
issues an aural alert when the oil pressure drops below the minimum acceptable
level of 25 psi. In flight, with the throttle retarded to idle it can drop
as low as 18 psi. A very slight increase in power quickly brings the oil pressure
back up to acceptable limits. Why does this low oil pressure event occur
only when I pull the power to idle in flight yet does not occur while idling
on the ground?
Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Bigger tires for 6A on grass? |
I haven't followed this thread very closely, so I don't know if the
intent is to fly off 'unimproved' fields.
If the field is smooth enough to dignify it with the name 'runway' you
probably don't actually need 6" wheels to operate off of grass. Many,
many RV's operate off of grass on a regular basis without problems. If
it's rough enough to need 6" wheels, you probably don't want wheel
pants. :-)
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vincent Osburn" <flyby41(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Low oil pressure event |
Rick,
If it helps?....... I couldn't find my seat cushion one time when my oil
pressure sender failed unknowingly. Oil pressure reading was erratic on
mine. First dropping to 30 or 40 then bouncing to 100 on a climb out. I
eventually figured it had to be an electrical failure of either the sender
or gauge due to the very rapid fluctuation and it was. Is your fluctuation
slow or rapid as this may be a clue? The oil pressure doesn't seem to ever
get below 45 to 50 psi or so at idle on my 0-320 topping out at 75 psi MOL.
The old sender and gage read about 85 psi on the top end. Both were/ are
automotive type units on my airplane.
> [Original Message]
> From: Rick Galati <rick6a(at)yahoo.com>
> To:
> Date: 6/23/2005 12:56:58 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Low oil pressure event
>
>
> Upon start-up, my brand new Lycoming O-320-D1A quickly achieves adequate
oil pressure at 650 RPM idle and remains well within acceptable limits
throughout a given flight......that is until I retard the throttle to idle
either for stalls, simulated engine out, or on final approach. The VM-1000
engine monitor quickly issues an aural alert when the oil pressure drops
below the minimum acceptable level of 25 psi. In flight, with the throttle
retarded to idle it can drop as low as 18 psi. A very slight increase in
power quickly brings the oil pressure back up to acceptable limits. Why
does this low oil pressure event occur only when I pull the power to idle
in flight yet does not occur while idling on the ground?
>
> Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla"
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Just names and no faces |
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
Some years ago I organized a table at Vans Banquet for the RV List Group.
I did this for three years. It worked out nicely.
At that time Bill Bennett (at Vans) cooperated for it. This would work
again if one of you would take the time to organize it.
Cecil Hatfield
writes:
>
>
> I did just this same thing about 3 years ago. I think 6 showed up
> at the
> prescribed time. Might be fetter, I think, to get a readable name
> badge and
> just walk around and let others see you and you them (if they have a
> name
> badge on). On the other hand, meeting at high noon at the theater
> in the
> woods would work. How about Thursday at high noon? Going to Van's
> dinner
> is another good one to attend.
>
> Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip Up It Flies 36 hrs out of 40 testing is
> done.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Stan Jones" <stan.jones(at)xtra.co.nz>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Just names and no faces
>
>
>
> >
> > It is only about a month til OshKosh, and I know a lot of you will
> be
> > there.
> > I have been on this list for about three years, and have read all
> the
> > words,
> > and
> > digested the opinions. I will be there for the third time, all
> the way
> > from
> > New Zealand,
> > and I would realy enjoy putting a face to all the names
> > Would it not be a good idea to have a bit of a get together, to
> have a
> > drink
> > perhaps
> > something to eat, and tell a lot of lies.
> > Perhaps someone with a bit of local knowledge could take this up,
> and
> > suggest a venue.
> > There are lots of eating places to consider, or we could even
> stoop to
> > Kelly
> > s Bar.
> > Is there any enthusiasm for this idea ?
> > Stan Jones
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Bigger tires for 6A on grass? |
Van's tested a set of 6" wheels on an RV-6 or 6a at one point. Their
evaluation was that the increased rough field ability wasn't worth the other
performance sacrifices.
Still, if you are operating out of rough/soft fields, it might be a
worthwhile modification. Drop a phone call or e-mail to them and ask how
they engineered the conversion.
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Low oil pressure event |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Galati" <rick6a(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Low oil pressure event
>
> Upon start-up, my brand new Lycoming O-320-D1A quickly achieves adequate
> oil pressure at 650 RPM idle and remains well within acceptable limits
> throughout a given flight......that is until I retard the throttle to idle
> either for stalls, simulated engine out, or on final approach. The
> VM-1000 engine monitor quickly issues an aural alert when the oil pressure
> drops below the minimum acceptable level of 25 psi. In flight, with the
> throttle retarded to idle it can drop as low as 18 psi. A very slight
> increase in power quickly brings the oil pressure back up to acceptable
> limits. Why does this low oil pressure event occur only when I pull the
> power to idle in flight yet does not occur while idling on the ground?
>
> Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla"
How much warmer is the oil when you're airborne compared to when you're
idling on the ground? I see a meaningful difference in idle oil pressure
with 200f oil vs 150f oil.
How are your oil pressures otherwise?
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DonVS" <dsvs(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Low oil pressure event |
Rick,
Did you bleed the air out of the system? If not try doing that, it might
help. Don
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rick Galati
Subject: RV-List: Low oil pressure event
Upon start-up, my brand new Lycoming O-320-D1A quickly achieves adequate oil
pressure at 650 RPM idle and remains well within acceptable limits
throughout a given flight......that is until I retard the throttle to idle
either for stalls, simulated engine out, or on final approach. The VM-1000
engine monitor quickly issues an aural alert when the oil pressure drops
below the minimum acceptable level of 25 psi. In flight, with the throttle
retarded to idle it can drop as low as 18 psi. A very slight increase in
power quickly brings the oil pressure back up to acceptable limits. Why does
this low oil pressure event occur only when I pull the power to idle in
flight yet does not occur while idling on the ground?
Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon(at)msn.com> |
I have two Vetterman vents on the LHS skirt on the canopy of my -4. One for
each seat. Both provide plenty of air while I am flying, but not nearly
enough while I am taxiing. Does anyone have any suggestions to get
sufficient cooling air while on the ground?
Dean
RV-4
280 hours
Bolton, MA
----Original Message Follows----
From: Doug Weiler <dcw(at)mnwing.org>
Subject: RV-List: RV-4 air vent
Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2005 19:19:08 -0500
Greetings Listers:
For the RV-4 folks (there must be a couple still around):
I really need to increase the fresh air ventilation in my -4. Right now I
am taking fresh air off the back baffle and running it through Van's mixing
box into the cabin. Plenty of fresh air when in the "cold" mode, but since
the air flows through the top of the cowling first, it is about 10 degrees
above ambient. Not good on a hot day.
I want to install a NACA vent under the right cheek venting up to a fresh
air eyeball mounted under the right lower portion of the panel. I have a
fair amount of experience in knowing that there are a lot of weird pressure
areas around the RV-4 cowl and canopy. Have any of you mounted a NACA vent
in this area on the RHS?? Does it work OK???
BTW, I have one of Larry Vetterman's little rotating scoop things for the
rear seat pax and it works very well on the RHS of the canopy skirt. But
mounting a similar vent for the front pilot is useless (I had one located
here on a previous RV-4 and it suck air out!!)
Thanks
Doug Weiler
N722DW, 200hrs
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
>I have two Vetterman vents on the LHS skirt on the canopy of my -4. One for
>each seat. Both provide plenty of air while I am flying, but not nearly
>enough while I am taxiing. Does anyone have any suggestions to get
>sufficient cooling air while on the ground?
Open and properly secure the canopy :)
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 air vent |
In a message dated 06/23/2005 4:51:48 PM Central Standard Time,
ronlee(at)pcisys.net writes:
Does anyone have any suggestions to get
>sufficient cooling air while on the ground?
>>>>
Not that I'd suggest anyone else do it like I did, but if you can somehow
incorporate a blower into your system between the inlet and the eyeballs, it
would be just a flip of a switch away- I used a 4" bilge blower from West Marine-
see:
http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=4994
Works well enough in my tip-up -6A to be comfortable without opening the
canopy from engine start to shutdown. Not as "cool" as a slider, but I don't like
to sweat and haven't yet even at 90+ here in TN...
Mark Phillips -190 hours &
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Bigger tires for 6A on grass? |
>
>
> Van's tested a set of 6" wheels on an RV-6 or 6a at one point. Their
> evaluation was that the increased rough field ability wasn't worth the
> other
> performance sacrifices.
>
> Still, if you are operating out of rough/soft fields, it might be a
> worthwhile modification. Drop a phone call or e-mail to them and ask how
> they engineered the conversion.
>
> KB
My thoughts after numerous grass strip landings in my 6A is that if the
field is rough enough to warrant larger tires, one should not operate a
Van's trigear out of that field. There are two types of bumps - those which
are on the order of size of the tires (not as common) and those where they
could best be described as waves or undulations in the ground (these seem to
be common). These latter ones can and have bent nose gears on trike RV's,
followed shortly thereafter by other parts being bent. The problem is the
elastic nature of the gear combined with a short wheel base. During a
landing rollout or takeoff, the nose wheel hits the "wave", driving the nose
up. A split second later, the mains hit the wave, driving them up and the
nose down - hard. The natural pitching frequency of my 6A is way too fast
to be able to react with elevator, and any attempts to do so will probably
result in a PIO.
Proceed with extreme caution in these trikes in any unfamiliar strip. The
worst speed, in my experience, is something in the 40 knot range.
Alex Peterson
N66AP 630 hours
Maple Grove, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sherri & Paul Richardson" <prichar(at)mail.win.org> |
Hello All,
Has anyone used the Dynon for IFR? I'm thinking of using one as backup attitude
indicator, but I'd like some input into quirks, strengths, etc, for IFR flight.
Thanks,
Paul Richardson
RV-6A (bought) 490 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel vapors in cockpit |
Dean wrote:
>
> Jeff
>
> If you do find a way to pressurize your tank, I would not recommend much
> more than one psi. That is what I used when leak checking my tanks (
> approx
> 27 inches differential on a simple plastic tube water manometer ).
> That was
> enough to see definite deflection of the tank skin between the ribs. One
> builder reported using four psi and suffered permanent deformation of his
> tank.
>
> Dean Van Winkle
> RV-9A Fuselage/Finish
>
Drain tank, disconnect fuel line put a balloon on the fitting. Let
almost all the air out of your air compreser, down to the point that
there is just a little air left, using a blower tip with a rubber end
hold it up to your drain, push up and let a very little bit of air in.
If you put to much in the balloon will just blow up, not your tank :-)
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net> |
Sherri & Paul Richardson wrote:
>
>Hello All,
>Has anyone used the Dynon for IFR? I'm thinking of using one as backup attitude
indicator, but I'd like some input into quirks, strengths, etc, for IFR flight.
>Thanks,
>Paul Richardson
>RV-6A (bought) 490 hours
>
>
http://www.rvproject.com/ Dan does all the time!
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
I use my Dynon EFIS-D10 in IMC in my RV-7. It is my primary attitude
indication -- I have no gyros. I don't necessarily endorse or recommend
this, but I'm personally comfortable with it. I have conventional
airspeed/altimeter/VSI gauges, and a TruTrak Pictorial Pilot rounds out the
scan and redundancy. I would *not* consider flying in IMC with *any* EFIS
without conventional airspeed & altimeter gauges at a minimum.
My EFIS-D10 had some quirks early on (i.e. "the leans") but Dynon responded
quickly with software updates which fixed it. The unit has been rock solid.
I have 524 hours on my EFIS-D10. Only 15.3 of that is instrument time (24
approaches). So it's not like I'm doing a ton of hard IFR or anything.
I'm personally comfortable using the EFIS-D10 in lieu of gyroscopic
instruments. At this point I trust it more than I would trust mechanical
gyros. But again, I would not rely solely on it -- I personally require
conventional backup instruments for IFR.
Your mileage may vary...be careful out there.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sherri & Paul Richardson" <prichar(at)mail.win.org>
Subject: RV-List: Dynon
>
> Hello All,
> Has anyone used the Dynon for IFR? I'm thinking of using one as backup
attitude indicator, but I'd like some input into quirks, strengths, etc, for
IFR flight.
> Thanks,
> Paul Richardson
> RV-6A (bought) 490 hours
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GMC <gmcnutt(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Low oil pressure event |
Hi Rick
Here is my guess, - Oil pressure relief valve opens to bypass oil during
T/O and you have a foreign object lodged in valve assembly causing the
valve to stick open or partially open bypassing oil when you reduce the
RPM to idle. This bypass causes abnormally low pressure. The valve must
be closing completely on shut down with zero pressure or the temperature
change so your idle pressure is normal on your next engine start.
Check & clean pressure relief valve.
George in Langley BC
Rick Galati wrote:
>
>Upon start-up, my brand new Lycoming O-320-D1A quickly achieves adequate oil pressure
at 650 RPM idle and remains well within acceptable limits throughout a
given flight......that is until I retard the throttle to idle either for stalls,
simulated engine out, or on final approach. The VM-1000 engine monitor quickly
issues an aural alert when the oil pressure drops below the minimum acceptable
level of 25 psi. In flight, with the throttle retarded to idle it can drop
as low as 18 psi. A very slight increase in power quickly brings the oil
pressure back up to acceptable limits. Why does this low oil pressure event occur
only when I pull the power to idle in flight yet does not occur while idling
on the ground?
>
>Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla"
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Dynon (or why Dan C has little IMC time) |
| From: | "Jim Robinette" <jim(at)rvator.net> |
I would also guess the reason Dan has so little IMC time is that he
lives in sunny SoCal, where IMC can be hard to find on most days! If
only we were all so lucky.
Jim
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon
I have 524 hours on my EFIS-D10. Only 15.3 of that is instrument time
(24 approaches). So it's not like I'm doing a ton of hard IFR or
anything.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel vapors in cockpitFuel vapors in cockpit |
The only easy way to connect a pressure line is to the vent, which is where
the balloon needs to go. Now how do I connect a "T" fitting to the vent for
a pressure line and balloon????
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
200 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Herron, Al" <al.herron(at)Aerojet.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel vapors in cockpitFuel vapors in cockpit
>
> I happened to be talking to our local EAA Tech Counselor last weekend
> about pressurizing fuel tanks. He suggests putting a toy rubber balloon
> on a fitting (could be a tee in your input pressure line). You don't
> want much pressure, maybe enough to half-inflate the balloon. The
> balloon will give you a visual indicator of a leak (by slowly deflating)
> plus serve as a safety valve - the balloon will burst way before your
> aluminum tank will.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
I have only 36 hours flying to date. But the other day while just flying
along in the clear with somewhat calm winds/updrafts/downdrafts I just
glanced at the Dynon and saw it displayed something briefly to the effect
that altitude reporting was being discontinued. My standard (old iron)
altitude backup display still showed what I consider to be the correct
altitude and my Garmin 327 with a Sandia encoder still showed what I
consider to be a correct altitude. I have also noticed occasionally the
attitude display of the Dynon will show a slight bank momentarily when none
is there. I cannot recommend anyone rely solely on the Dynon for IFR
flight.
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip Up It Flies
>
> Sherri & Paul Richardson wrote:
>
>>
>>
>>Hello All,
>>Has anyone used the Dynon for IFR? I'm thinking of using one as backup
>>attitude indicator, but I'd like some input into quirks, strengths, etc,
>>for IFR flight.
>>Thanks,
>>Paul Richardson
>>RV-6A (bought) 490 hours
>>
>>
> http://www.rvproject.com/ Dan does all the time!
>
> --
> Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
I too use my Dynon as a primary IFR instrument. I too back it up with a
Steam gauge Alt and AS as well as a NAVAID autopilot. I am coming up on 2
years and 400 hours with mine, I don't log IFR time closely, but I would bet
I have much more than 15 hours of actual time on mine, and I have flown
several approaches to, or nearly to minimums.
My experience would cause me to echo Dan's comments. If you plan to fly IFR
in an RV, no matter what kind of gauges you use, you need to a current and
profficient instrument pilot.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon
>
> I use my Dynon EFIS-D10 in IMC in my RV-7. It is my primary attitude
> indication -- I have no gyros. I don't necessarily endorse or recommend
> this, but I'm personally comfortable with it. I have conventional
> airspeed/altimeter/VSI gauges, and a TruTrak Pictorial Pilot rounds out
the
> scan and redundancy. I would *not* consider flying in IMC with *any* EFIS
> without conventional airspeed & altimeter gauges at a minimum.
>
> My EFIS-D10 had some quirks early on (i.e. "the leans") but Dynon
responded
> quickly with software updates which fixed it. The unit has been rock
solid.
>
> I have 524 hours on my EFIS-D10. Only 15.3 of that is instrument time (24
> approaches). So it's not like I'm doing a ton of hard IFR or anything.
>
> I'm personally comfortable using the EFIS-D10 in lieu of gyroscopic
> instruments. At this point I trust it more than I would trust mechanical
> gyros. But again, I would not rely solely on it -- I personally require
> conventional backup instruments for IFR.
>
> Your mileage may vary...be careful out there.
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Sherri & Paul Richardson" <prichar(at)mail.win.org>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Dynon
>
>
>
> >
> > Hello All,
> > Has anyone used the Dynon for IFR? I'm thinking of using one as backup
> attitude indicator, but I'd like some input into quirks, strengths, etc,
for
> IFR flight.
> > Thanks,
> > Paul Richardson
> > RV-6A (bought) 490 hours
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Alley <n320wt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Low oil pressure event |
Another thing to consider is that this happens only
in flight, at idle. What happens is the end play of
the crank and drag on the prop is forcing the crank
aft in the bearings. Contact Lycoming tech support
about crank bearing/crankshaft match issues.
BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT)
CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES
101 Caroline Circle
Hurricane, WV 25526
304-562-6800 home
How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
On 24 Jun 2005, at 8:02, LarryRobertHelming wrote:
>
>
> I have only 36 hours flying to date. But the other day while just
> flying
> along in the clear with somewhat calm winds/updrafts/downdrafts I just
> glanced at the Dynon and saw it displayed something briefly to the
> effect
> that altitude reporting was being discontinued. My standard (old
> iron)
> altitude backup display still showed what I consider to be the correct
> altitude and my Garmin 327 with a Sandia encoder still showed what I
> consider to be a correct altitude. I have also noticed
> occasionally the
> attitude display of the Dynon will show a slight bank momentarily
> when none
> is there. I cannot recommend anyone rely solely on the Dynon for IFR
> flight.
>
> Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip Up It Flies
>
>
Just curious - do you have the D-10, or the D-10A? What software
version do you have?
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel vapors in cockpitFuel vapors in cockpit |
I wouldn't use a toy baloon as an indicator of a slow leak in your fuel tank under
test! All toy baloons have inherent leaks through the porosity of the rubber
and will deflate over time. I used a latex surgical glove wrapped and taped
to the test vent tube. I Inflated it to twice the size of my wrist...Left it
on for week and remained the same (on both tanks)
Cheers! Henry Hore. 6-A, C-GELS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel vapors in cockpitFuel vapors in cockpit |
Why not just use the manometer method with the Van's test kit to close off
the fuel valve? It works great. A little soapy water and voila! If there's a
leak you'll know about it in a couple of seconds.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | 7/7A Builder's Get-together |
Here's the particulars -- as we currently have them -- for the 7/7A
Builder's get-together at Osh.
http://home.comcast.net/~bcollinsrv7a/eaa/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | First Flight N863JJ |
John,
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "John Mcmahon" <rv6(at)earthlink.net>
>Subject: RV-List: First Flight N863JJ
>Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2005 07:49:19 -0500
>
>
>First flight of Kit #22411 RV6 at Portland,Tn (1M5) on the 22nd at 0732..
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Tapping holes in the canopy frame |
| From: | Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net> |
The instructions say to tap the sliding canopy frame and roll bar with a
6-32 tap. The instructions say to drill with a #35 bit and the plans say to
use a #36. Which is correct? Also, I see there are several different types
of taps available--plug, taper and bottoming taps, with left and right-hand
threads. What kind is best for the canopy frame?
Last, but not least, is a 5/32" hole in the plexi adequate for expansion, or
are some of you drilling the holes larger?
Thank you,
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6(at)bryantechnology.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tapping holes in the canopy frame |
Mark,
I don't remember what size drill I used, but after breaking 3 taps off in
the holes, I gave up and glued it on. Looks better, was easier, and no
worries about cracking the canopy. Just my opinion.
Tim
RV-6
-------Original Message-------
From: Mark Schrimmer
Date: 06/24/05 09:37:41
Subject: RV-List: Tapping holes in the canopy frame
The instructions say to tap the sliding canopy frame and roll bar with a
6-32 tap. The instructions say to drill with a #35 bit and the plans say to
use a #36. Which is correct? Also, I see there are several different types
of taps available--plug, taper and bottoming taps, with left and right-hand
threads. What kind is best for the canopy frame?
Last, but not least, is a 5/32" hole in the plexi adequate for expansion, or
are some of you drilling the holes larger?
Thank you,
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Birkelbach <phil(at)petrasoft.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tapping holes in the canopy frame |
#36 drill. You want a right hand through (plug) tap. These would be the
most readily available taps.
Lubricate the cut with some cutting fluid, keep the tap as parallel with
the hole as possible and blow the shavings off of the tap before you
back it out and you will have some great threads.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB - Finishing Up
http://www.myrv7.com
Mark Schrimmer wrote:
>
>The instructions say to tap the sliding canopy frame and roll bar with a
>6-32 tap. The instructions say to drill with a #35 bit and the plans say to
>use a #36. Which is correct? Also, I see there are several different types
>of taps available--plug, taper and bottoming taps, with left and right-hand
>threads. What kind is best for the canopy frame?
>
>Last, but not least, is a 5/32" hole in the plexi adequate for expansion, or
>are some of you drilling the holes larger?
>
>Thank you,
>
>Mark
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tapping holes in the canopy frame |
The machinist here at work hates #6 screws because the tap breaks much
easier than any other size. Also make sure to use a good taping fluid, it
makes a BIG difference.
>
>Mark,
>
>I don't remember what size drill I used, but after breaking 3 taps off in
>the holes, I gave up and glued it on. Looks better, was easier, and no
>worries about cracking the canopy. Just my opinion.
>
>Tim
>RV-6
>
>-------Original Message-------
>
>From: Mark Schrimmer
>Date: 06/24/05 09:37:41
>To: rv-list-matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Tapping holes in the canopy frame
>
>
>The instructions say to tap the sliding canopy frame and roll bar with a
>6-32 tap. The instructions say to drill with a #35 bit and the plans say to
>use a #36. Which is correct? Also, I see there are several different types
>of taps available--plug, taper and bottoming taps, with left and right-hand
>threads. What kind is best for the canopy frame?
>
>Last, but not least, is a 5/32" hole in the plexi adequate for expansion, or
>are some of you drilling the holes larger?
>
>Thank you,
>
>Mark
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tapping holes in the canopy frame |
Some folks here have used Rivnuts. This allows a screw with just
enough pressure to hold but not too much. Can also makes the holes a bit
larger for expansion.
Consider if this makes sense and works for you.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: [FlyRotary] Re: Brake Line Incident Photos |
----- Original Message -----
From: Ed Anderson
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Brake Line Incident Photos
Yes, John - luck and a quick acting nephew {:>). The only answer I can come up
with is that the aluminum line suffered a fatigue fracture which weakened the
tube and the hydraulic pressure finally blew out the chunk. The line has a loop
to provide flexing as the caliper moves in and out - but, flexing aluminum
is not know for a long life. In all fairness, there are many RVs flying with
this configuration - so the break might be attributed to my installation (stressing
the line when I put the loop in it), material weakness, some damage I did
not notice, etc. Had over 300 landings before the failure.
Ed
----- Original Message -----
From: John Slade
To: Rotary motors in aircraft
Sent: Friday, June 24, 2005 9:09 AM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Brake Line Incident Photos
Wow, Ed!
You're luck the airplane wasn't consumed.
My question - how did that big chunk get blown out of the brake line?
Regards,
John
-----Original Message-----
From: Rotary motors in aircraft [mailto:flyrotary(at)lancaironline.net]On Behalf Of Ed Anderson
Sent: Friday, June 24, 2005 8:58 AM
To: Rotary motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] Brake Line Incident Photos
For those interested (and may not have seen them) , here are a few photos of
my brake line fire incident.
Big chunk got blown out of brake line as can be seen from Brakelines.jpg
photo. Effect of resin burning seen on wheel pant photos. Once the line broke,
the next time I depressed the brake pedal, a fireball from the wheel to over
the wing resulted from spraying the hydraulic fluid over the hot brake assembly.
The flash point of the fluid is only 240F! I am going to investigate some
stuff with a bit higher flash point {:>)
Ed
Ed Anderson
Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
| Subject: | Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Brake Line Incident Photos |
Hi, Ed. "Hindsight" my hind foot! Us aviators are ALWAYS "looking forward" .
. . to preventing further occurances of preventable accidents (Air Force safety
jargon?).
Sincerely, you are "breaking new ground" in the area of brakes. (no double pun
intended on breaking a brake line?) I've always known I'd never use plastic
brake line (many have, and have melted them and lost brakes during/after high
speed taxi practice or hard braking on landing).
You have just drawn a perfect conclusion from yet another "brink of disaster but
saved by the grace of God" event (God MUST love you greatly!!): Aluminum does
have crummy fatigue life. So maybe I'll get some automotive steel brake line
to fit or adapt to my Cleveland aircraft brakes.
David
----- Original Message -----
From: Ed Anderson
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Brake Line Incident Photos
David, it was aluminum tubing which is what's called for on the RV-6A brake system.
However, in hindsight - thinking about the low fatigue life of flexing aluminum,
I think there are better choices.
Ed
----- Original Message -----
From: David Carter
To: Rotary motors in aircraft
Sent: Friday, June 24, 2005 9:04 AM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Brake Line Incident Photos
Ed, what kind of brake line was that?
David
----- Original Message -----
From: Ed Anderson
To: Rotary motors in aircraft
Sent: Friday, June 24, 2005 7:58 AM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Brake Line Incident Photos
For those interested (and may not have seen them) , here are a few photos of
my brake line fire incident.
Big chunk got blown out of brake line as can be seen from Brakelines.jpg photo.
Effect of resin burning seen on wheel pant photos. Once the line broke,
the next time I depressed the brake pedal, a fireball from the wheel to over
the wing resulted from spraying the hydraulic fluid over the hot brake assembly.
The flash point of the fluid is only 240F! I am going to investigate some
stuff with a bit higher flash point {:>)
Ed
Ed Anderson
Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dick martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Just names and no faces |
Dear Stan,
Many of us camp out at OSH, not necessarily out of necessity, but mostly
because of the comadarie that is available in the camp areas. It is usually
difficult for flyin visitors to get to places in town. However, there are
many possibilites for get togethers in the camping areas. It is possible
to rent campers etc for the flyin. The OSH vendors are usually booked,
however, others are available. If interested, I can provide some names etc.
Do not wait until the last minute, because all rentals will be taken.
Now , to your original proposal, I would like to see a get together in the
camp areas because of the convenience. Do not ask EAA about refreshments
( alcohol, beer etc) as they will advise you NO. The real world is that non
roudy parties etc. are usually ignored. If I can be of assistance, please
advise.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
the fast one
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stan Jones" <stan.jones(at)xtra.co.nz>
Subject: RV-List: Just names and no faces
>
> It is only about a month til OshKosh, and I know a lot of you will be
> there.
> I have been on this list for about three years, and have read all the
> words,
> and
> digested the opinions. I will be there for the third time, all the way
> from
> New Zealand,
> and I would realy enjoy putting a face to all the names
> Would it not be a good idea to have a bit of a get together, to have a
> drink
> perhaps
> something to eat, and tell a lot of lies.
> Perhaps someone with a bit of local knowledge could take this up, and
> suggest a venue.
> There are lots of eating places to consider, or we could even stoop to
> Kelly
> s Bar.
> Is there any enthusiasm for this idea ?
> Stan Jones
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <paul(at)kitlog.com> |
| Subject: | Just names and no faces |
Two years ago we flew into Milwaukee, and rented a camper from Cruise
America. We had the reservation for probably 6 months, though. This year
we were lucky enough to find a place in town through a friend. We'll be
driving in each day.
Paul Besing
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of dick martin
Subject: Re: RV-List: Just names and no faces
Dear Stan,
Many of us camp out at OSH, not necessarily out of necessity, but mostly
because of the comadarie that is available in the camp areas. It is usually
difficult for flyin visitors to get to places in town. However, there are
many possibilites for get togethers in the camping areas. It is possible
to rent campers etc for the flyin. The OSH vendors are usually booked,
however, others are available. If interested, I can provide some names etc.
Do not wait until the last minute, because all rentals will be taken.
Now , to your original proposal, I would like to see a get together in the
camp areas because of the convenience. Do not ask EAA about refreshments
( alcohol, beer etc) as they will advise you NO. The real world is that non
roudy parties etc. are usually ignored. If I can be of assistance, please
advise.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
the fast one
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stan Jones" <stan.jones(at)xtra.co.nz>
Subject: RV-List: Just names and no faces
>
> It is only about a month til OshKosh, and I know a lot of you will be
> there.
> I have been on this list for about three years, and have read all the
> words,
> and
> digested the opinions. I will be there for the third time, all the way
> from
> New Zealand,
> and I would realy enjoy putting a face to all the names
> Would it not be a good idea to have a bit of a get together, to have a
> drink
> perhaps
> something to eat, and tell a lot of lies.
> Perhaps someone with a bit of local knowledge could take this up, and
> suggest a venue.
> There are lots of eating places to consider, or we could even stoop to
> Kelly
> s Bar.
> Is there any enthusiasm for this idea ?
> Stan Jones
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Perkinson" <bobperk(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | First Flight N863JJ |
I sure would have liked to have been there John. Does the other Bob Know?
If he didn't he does now. Congratulations on a job done to perfection.
what are you going to do at nights now, and how is the dog going to ride
along with you. Way to go John!
Bob Perkinson
Hendersonville, TN.
RV9A N658RP Reserved
If nothing changes
Nothing changes
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Mcmahon
Tom Eyssen; Dave Hudgins; Janet; CHUCK JENKJINS; KECoats(at)aol.com; BILL
LOGUE; Mancini; Joe Mckervey; JOHN MILLER; ALLEN MOLLEYHORN; Piper,
Gary; rv6-list(at)matronics.com; EDD (2003) TECK; TOBY; Tommy Walker;
Winans, Dave W; JOHN WOODALL
Subject: RV-List: First Flight N863JJ
First flight of Kit #22411 RV6 at Portland,Tn (1M5) on the 22nd at
0732..This was a 13 year project,the old
slow kit ..Thanks to the RV list,Gary V, and Sam B's Web site..I used the
EAA first flight guide lines,which
is a must do if you can...Flight time was only 20 min,but SWEET...Mistakes
that I made!!!
1Check everything 3 times in the Eng,oil line,gas lines,etc...
2Hart C/S got ahead of me when it un/loaded on take off(2780) WHEW
After take off,stayed in the pattern and trim out and say to myself
(WOW)...did I do this..(JAMES 1:17)
Then things started to change after about 18 min,the VM1000 oil pressure
gauge which was 80#
was showing a TREND down,76,1 min later 71,65,60,53, radio to ground crew
coming down ,landed
3 point ,and when it slowed down in the roll out I see smoke but I still
have oil pressure 38#
shut it down in front of the hanger and this plane looks like a Red chili
pepper dipped it olive oil!!
Lift top Cowl ,open top of plenum cover and the flange to the prop gov line
loose....This has never
leaked at any point doing run ups etc(check every line 3 times with a
wrench)I had put 7 qts in just
in case!!It dumped 3 Qts pretty sudden..
I have made the prop hub adj fine pitch ..put in the 3 qts and ready to go
up again ....Oh well
thats why they call it first test flight!!!
The what I have so far info..
Eng is 0360 A1A Aero sport Lightspeed right side
Empty weight1142
Inst PanelLaird Owens
Seats and uplDJ
Harts C/S
GraphicsFreedom Graphics
Paint GuyMe
Primer sealer Epoxy Dupont 2510s
PPG DBU base coat Torch Red (Vette Red)
PPG clear 2021
Some Pic
http://www.3gunmatch.com/rv6/rv6.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stan Jones" <stan.jones(at)xtra.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Just names and no faces |
Hi Dick,
I see your point. I will probably go to Bob Collins do, that's if I can find
the way
and then find my way back to the Uni in town
Stan Jones
-------Original Message-------
From: dick martin
Date: 06/25/05 14:36:59
Subject: Re: RV-List: Just names and no faces
Dear Stan,
Many of us camp out at OSH, not necessarily out of necessity, but mostly
because of the comadarie that is available in the camp areas. It is usually
difficult for flyin visitors to get to places in town. However, there are
many possibilites for get togethers in the camping areas. It is possible
to rent campers etc for the flyin. The OSH vendors are usually booked,
however, others are available. If interested, I can provide some names etc.
Do not wait until the last minute, because all rentals will be taken.
Now , to your original proposal, I would like to see a get together in the
camp areas because of the convenience. Do not ask EAA about refreshments
( alcohol, beer etc) as they will advise you NO. The real world is that non
roudy parties etc. are usually ignored. If I can be of assistance, please
advise.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
the fast one
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stan Jones" <stan.jones(at)xtra.co.nz>
Subject: RV-List: Just names and no faces
>
> It is only about a month til OshKosh, and I know a lot of you will be
> there.
> I have been on this list for about three years, and have read all the
> words,
> and
> digested the opinions. I will be there for the third time, all the way
> from
> New Zealand,
> and I would realy enjoy putting a face to all the names
> Would it not be a good idea to have a bit of a get together, to have a
> drink
> perhaps
> something to eat, and tell a lot of lies.
> Perhaps someone with a bit of local knowledge could take this up, and
> suggest a venue.
> There are lots of eating places to consider, or we could even stoop to
> Kelly
> s Bar.
> Is there any enthusiasm for this idea ?
> Stan Jones
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: Tapping holes in the canopy frame |
> Some folks here have used Rivnuts. This allows a screw with just
> enough pressure to hold but not too much. Can also makes the holes a bit
> larger for expansion.
>
> Consider if this makes sense and works for you.
One of the problems I had with rivnuts in general is that
you have to drill a pretty large hole to put them in. There
is not a lot of room on the canopy frame tubes. I'm going
with glue for my canopy and skirts. The canopy is done,
and I'm real happy with the results. Skirts are next.
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "linda" <lindawa(at)echoweb.net> |
| Subject: | For Sale Prop and Vac System |
I have a "Props Inc" wood prop [68X67] with spinner, spacer, bolts etc. Prop was
on a RV6A with O320-E2A [150 hp], prop has less than 20 hours and is in new
condition, I fly in the Pacific NW in the rain so I needed to replace with metal.
Price $900 OBO
Vac system, pump, filters, 2 DGs, VSI, AI, etc. Price $700 OBO
Call 541.826.5973 or email for details
Thanks
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Subject: [FlyLycoming] Brake Line Incident Photos |
I would never use plastic or aluminum break lines near the caliper. I used a #2 hose like this. http://www.raceplumbing.com/product_info.php?cPath=21&products_id=213
I ran the braided line all the way from the caliper to the firewall. You could
run a shorter piece of braided hose than transition half way up the gear leg to
aluminum, but less joints and connections are better.
The down side if any is a little more weight and cost. I had mine made up at an
industrial hose house that had the proper 37deg fittings. The cost for the two
lines was not much. Also before the fittings where installed I slipped a short
piece of clear vinyl over the braided line. This was to avoid any abrasion
of the hose rubbing the wheel pants or bottom of the gear leg fairing. Going for
1000 hours and 7 years and no problem. Also for maintenance when you move your
caliper, the flex line allows the caliper to set it a side without disconnecting
it.
Also people who know more about the subject state the Mobile 1 synthetic ATF works
well and has double the flash point temp. Check archives under Re : Brake
Fluid. The down side is there are other additives that are not really needed for
a brake system, however they have no negative affect on the brakes, as some
claim it worked well for them for years. There is better Mil spec brake fluid,
MIL-H 83282 as reported on this list, but only comes in 4 gal quantities. It
has twice the flash point of the older MIL-H5606 fluid. It would be nice if Van
or someone who sells parts would buy MIL-H 83282 to sell in small amounts to
builders. We can always make our RV's better and safer. No need to use 65 year
old MIL-H5606 brake fluid formulas when MIL-H 83282 is available (kind of).
I don't know if the two MIL specs are compatitable.
Last DON'T ride the BRAKES!. The best way to do it is check speed to a crawl than
let them go *completely* (feet off) and let the speed build up, than check
speed again, repeat as necessary. Just dragging the brakes continuously will give
you a brake fire real fast. The process of brake / release allows some brake
cooling. It is all energy and it has to go some where. Remember, also those
cool looking low drag wheel fairings are not letting the brakes get much cool
air.
Cheers George
>Subject: Re: Fw: [FlyRotary] Re: Brake Line Incident Photos
David Carter wrote:
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Ed Anderson
>To: Rotary motors in aircraft
>Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Brake Line Incident Photos
>
>
>Yes, John - luck and a quick acting nephew {:>). The only answer I can
come up
with is that the aluminum line suffered a fatigue fracture which weakened
the
tube and the hydraulic pressure finally blew out the chunk. The line has
a
loop to provide flexing as the caliper moves in and out - but, flexing aluminum
is not know for a long life. In all fairness, there are many RVs flying
with
this configuration - so the break might be attributed to my installation
(stressing
the line when I put the loop in it), material weakness, some damage I
did not notice, etc. Had over 300 landings before the failure.
>
>Ed
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: John Slade
> To: Rotary motors in aircraft
> Sent: Friday, June 24, 2005 9:09 AM
> Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Brake Line Incident Photos
>
>
> Wow, Ed!
> You're luck the airplane wasn't consumed.
> My question - how did that big chunk get blown out of the brake line?
> Regards,
> John
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rotary motors in aircraft [mailto:flyrotary(at)lancaironline.net]On Behalf Of Ed Anderson
> Sent: Friday, June 24, 2005 8:58 AM
> To: Rotary motors in aircraft
> Subject: [FlyRotary] Brake Line Incident Photos
>
>
> For those interested (and may not have seen them) , here are a few photos
of my brake line fire incident.
>
> Big chunk got blown out of brake line as can be seen from Brakelines.jpg
photo. Effect of resin burning seen on wheel pant photos. Once the line
broke,
the next time I depressed the brake pedal, a fireball from the wheel to over
the wing resulted from spraying the hydraulic fluid over the hot brake assembly.
The flash point of the fluid is only 240F! I am going to investigate some
stuff with a bit higher flash point {:>)
>
>
> Ed
>
> Ed Anderson
> Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
> Matthews, NC
> eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
>
>
>
>
Do you have a wb site were the photos are? I don't see a link to them,
maybe I just missed it.
As you know attached photos will be stripped form the RV-List. I would
like to see them as
I have been using aluminum brakes lines for 16 year on my RV-6.
Jerry
---------------------------------
Rekindle the Rivalries. Sign up for Fantasy Football
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tapping holes in the canopy frame |
Mark: I used a #36 drill and a taper tap, the taper tap is easier to
start and the #36 drill gives a very slightly snugger fit for the screws. At
least that's my impression. I also felt that the 5/32 hole was not adequate for
expansion of the plexi over a wide range of temperatures so I used 1/4 inch
holes and inserted a spacer of soft 1/4" OD plastic tubing in each hole. I also
dipped each screw in Lexol as I inserted them to hopefully prevent water
leaks. If you choose to go this route you will need to use #6 Tinnerman
countersunk washers. I'm no expert so you'll probably get better advice from the
list.
No cracks in the first 97 hours however (KNOCK ON WOOD!)
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 97.6 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob <panamared3(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel vapors in cockpit |
I have a matt finish on my RV and I use Lemon Pledge to clean it up with
out having to use water. But, the Pledge comes off as soon as avgas hits
it. Then I have light spots were the Pledge is gone.
I have noticed that after aerobatics, I have streaks from both vents from
the bottom fuselage to the top of the wing where fuel has been vented out
of the vent lines. Of course, I can smell avgas during aerobatics.
Why this happens I don't know?
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duane Bentley" <dbentley(at)fuse.net> |
I have about 110 hrs on my RV6, and around 10 hrs IMC with the Dynon. I
flew back from Cape Cod to Cincinnati, Ohio last month, with half of
that either between solid cloud layers or IMC. I have the STec 30 AP
which displays turn and bank plus slip along with altitude hold, a
regular analog airspeed gage, and the Rocky Mountain microencoder. My
scan includes constant cross check between the Dynon attitude and the
STec. I've not had any surprises.
I basically have triple redundancy on airspeed and double on altitude.
Without question, I find I have to stay current to fly IFR in this
plane, and fly a couple of 1-2 hours a month under the hood. I also
wouldn't fly IMC if the STec wasn't functioning.
I added the chart view function to my MX20 / GX 60 / SL30 package which
works well, although it was pricey. Make sure you have the right chart
loaded, because trying to fly and change approaches at the last minute
can be a major challenge. I also put in the WSI satellite weather into
my MX20 and find it to be absolutely great for long Xcntry in IMC. I
was telling NY center where I wanted to go and when I wanted to turn,
and found it to be right on the money working around storms. Cruising
between 8000 and 10000 feet out and back, with 170 - 175 KTAS, I had
several controllers in the North East asking to tell them again what
type equipment I was flying. After saying RV6 / G, I frequently got the
question asking how many engines it had.
Duane Bentley
N515DB
West Chester, OH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | alan(at)reichertech.com |
Working on the VS skeleton for my -8, I managed to end up with an
air gap between the main spar and top rib. Drilling out the two
rivets (AN470AD4-4) resulted in holes that are a bit larger than
an AD4 rivet. Is it acceptable to redrill these two holes and use
AD6 rivets?
--
Alan Reichert
Priv, Inst, SEL
RV-8 N927AR (reserved)
Prepping Horizontal/Vertical Stabilizers for Assembly
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AN470AD4 "oops" |
Alan,
Are your holes to large to use AD470-5 (5/32" dia) rivets? I would try
using the -5 rivets if possible. Using a -6 rivet will leave you with less
than 2 D hole to edge distance on the rib flange.
Charlie Kuss
>
>
>Working on the VS skeleton for my -8, I managed to end up with an
>air gap between the main spar and top rib. Drilling out the two
>rivets (AN470AD4-4) resulted in holes that are a bit larger than
>an AD4 rivet. Is it acceptable to redrill these two holes and use
>AD6 rivets?
>
>--
>Alan Reichert
>Priv, Inst, SEL
>RV-8 N927AR (reserved)
>Prepping Horizontal/Vertical Stabilizers for Assembly
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <hal_kempthorne(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dynon not for IFR? |
A long time ago in the '80s I was flying a rented cherokee and the attitude indicator
began showing a sharp left bank. I double checked with my Dynon and it
said I was level.
No, wait a moment, I checked with my turn coordinator and it said I was level.
Spinning wheel gauges are like leisure suits, way out of style but some folks still
just love them. In time we'll see that gauges fail about 100 times more
frequently than Dynons.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AN470AD4 "oops" |
You might try squeezing a longer rivet in your squeezer a tad to fatten it
up some before you install it, for a good fit. Depends on how much larger
the hole is of course...
Good luck,
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: <alan(at)reichertech.com>
Subject: RV-List: AN470AD4 "oops"
>
>
> Working on the VS skeleton for my -8, I managed to end up with an
> air gap between the main spar and top rib. Drilling out the two
> rivets (AN470AD4-4) resulted in holes that are a bit larger than
> an AD4 rivet. Is it acceptable to redrill these two holes and use
> AD6 rivets?
>
> --
> Alan Reichert
> Priv, Inst, SEL
> RV-8 N927AR (reserved)
> Prepping Horizontal/Vertical Stabilizers for Assembly
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AN470AD4 "oops" |
| From: | alan(at)reichertech.com |
Charlie,
The -5 would work, but I have not been able to find a source for them.
The -5s I've found are flush head, all others jump from 4 to 6. Do you
have a source for these?
Another fellow suggested fattening up a longer rivet, but the holes ended
up enlarged to a point that I'm not comfortable with this method. I
apparently was a bit hamfisted with the rivet removal tool and elongated
the holes slightly, so they will have to be redrilled to the next size up.
I believe 5s will work if I can get them.
- Alan
Subject: Re: AN470AD4 "oops"
From: Charlie Kuss (chaztuna(at)adelphia.net)
Date: Sat Jun 25 - 3:13 PM
Alan,
Are your holes to large to use AD470-5 (5/32" dia) rivets? I would try
using the -5 rivets if possible. Using a -6 rivet will leave you with less
than 2 D hole to edge distance on the rib flange.
Charlie Kuss
>
>
>Working on the VS skeleton for my -8, I managed to end up with an
>air gap between the main spar and top rib. Drilling out the two
>rivets (AN470AD4-4) resulted in holes that are a bit larger than
>an AD4 rivet. Is it acceptable to redrill these two holes and use
>AD6 rivets?
>
>--
>Alan Reichert
>Priv, Inst, SEL
>RV-8 N927AR (reserved)
>Prepping Horizontal/Vertical Stabilizers for Assembly
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Bean <jim-bean(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Transition Training |
Does anyone know how to reach the instructor who gives RV transition
training in the Conn/NY area? I have finished my -8 and am chicken to
fly it without some training. I am based on Long Island New York.
Jim Bean
N99JA - signed off.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Weiler <dcw(at)mnwing.org> |
Greetings all:
My RV-4 currently has a Sigtronics SP-400N intercom installed. It
supposedly is designed for high noise environments but I don't think it is
as effective as some other intercoms I have flown with. I am using DC ENC
headsets and my comm. transmission are reported loud and clear so I feel the
microphone is not the problem.
I have been impressed with the PS Engineering ICs in other RV aircraft.
They have a high noise version (PM1200). Does anyone have any other
experience with PS Intercoms? I am thinking about switching.
Thanks
Doug Weiler
N722DW, RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Compass Swinging |
Gentlemen,
I have a Precision vertical compass card. I need to swing my compass and
have misplaced the documents that came with the compass. There are two
adjustments at the bottom, one for N-S and the other for E-W. Can anyone
tell me which is which?
Vince
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Low oil pressure event |
I was not aware there is an oil pressure relief valve. Where is it?
GMC wrote:
>
>Hi Rick
>
>Here is my guess, - Oil pressure relief valve opens to bypass oil during
>T/O and you have a foreign object lodged in valve assembly causing the
>valve to stick open or partially open bypassing oil when you reduce the
>RPM to idle. This bypass causes abnormally low pressure. The valve must
>be closing completely on shut down with zero pressure or the temperature
>change so your idle pressure is normal on your next engine start.
>Check & clean pressure relief valve.
>
>George in Langley BC
>
>
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Brake line incident. |
I just had a discussion about this very thing with Mike Burlingham who's
RV-6A has been flying for about 6 years now. He had some fatigue cracking
on one side due to the line flexing and fixed it rather quickly and
inexpensively as follows:
1) Go to your local autoparts store and pick up two flexible lines made for
grease guns. These hoses are good for 3000 PSI and have male pipe thread
fittings on each end.
2) Procure two elbows for the caliper end, one end of the elbow has female
threads to connect with the grease gun hose and the other end has male
threads that mate with the brake caliper. Checking Wicks catalog it looks
like an AN914-2D fitting would work for this, check the grease gun end
fittings for size before you order though (I haven't done this yet so I
haven't checked to see exactly what the grease gun hose fittings are size
wise). Mike mentioned something about the grease gun hose fittings being
1/8 inch so you might need a 1/4 to 1/8 reducer like an AN912-1D to put in
the elbow that the grease gun hose fits into.
3) The last thing you need is a male flare fitting (aluminum tube end) to
female pipe thread adapter (that the grease gun hose fits into). Wicks part
number 2405-4-2 looks like it would work for this (if Mikes comment on the
grease gun hose fittings being 1/8 inch are correct).
So.....what he has done is bring the aluminum tube down the gear leg close
to the bottom end....into the flared aluminum tube fitting-to-pipe fitting
adapter for the grease gun hose... grease gun hose bridges the gap to the
caliper and goes into an adapter fitting to the caliper.
He didn't elaborate on how he fastened the aluminum tube and adapter to the
gear leg (and I couldn't tell from looking cause he had his wheelpants
installed when I saw the airplane) but I thought a hose clamp or something
similar maybe. Mike has done one side of his airplane and had good luck
with it so he plans to convert the other. I think I'll give it a try too,
the fatiguing aluminum tube doesn't sound like something I want on my plane.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Finishing and Finishing and....Finishing!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <emrath(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Brake line incident |
Dan and others:
If one does this, are you still making the "spiral" into the caliper or just
heading straight down the leg and into the caliper, a-la Cessna 152?
Marty in Brentwood TN
RV-6A Engine plumbing and wiring
From: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net>
Subject: RV-List: Brake line incident.
-->
I just had a discussion about this very thing with Mike Burlingham who's
RV-6A has been flying for about 6 years now. He had some fatigue cracking
on one side due to the line flexing and fixed it rather quickly and
inexpensively as follows:
1) Go to your local autoparts store and pick up two flexible lines made for
grease guns. These hoses are good for 3000 PSI and have male pipe thread
fittings on each end.
2) Procure two elbows for the caliper end, one end of the elbow has female
threads to connect with the grease gun hose and the other end has male
threads that mate with the brake caliper. Checking Wicks catalog it looks
like an AN914-2D fitting would work for this, check the grease gun end
fittings for size before you order though (I haven't done this yet so I
haven't checked to see exactly what the grease gun hose fittings are size
wise). Mike mentioned something about the grease gun hose fittings being
1/8 inch so you might need a 1/4 to 1/8 reducer like an AN912-1D to put in
the elbow that the grease gun hose fits into.
3) The last thing you need is a male flare fitting (aluminum tube end) to
female pipe thread adapter (that the grease gun hose fits into). Wicks part
number 2405-4-2 looks like it would work for this (if Mikes comment on the
grease gun hose fittings being 1/8 inch are correct).
So.....what he has done is bring the aluminum tube down the gear leg close
to the bottom end....into the flared aluminum tube fitting-to-pipe fitting
adapter for the grease gun hose... grease gun hose bridges the gap to the
caliper and goes into an adapter fitting to the caliper.
He didn't elaborate on how he fastened the aluminum tube and adapter to the
gear leg (and I couldn't tell from looking cause he had his wheelpants
installed when I saw the airplane) but I thought a hose clamp or something
similar maybe. Mike has done one side of his airplane and had good luck
with it so he plans to convert the other. I think I'll give it a try too,
the fatiguing aluminum tube doesn't sound like something I want on my plane.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Finishing and Finishing and....Finishing!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AN470AD4 "oops" |
Alan,
I've been the recipient of a large collection of rivets, thanks to RV4
owner/builder Jody Edwards. I have a supply of AD470 & AD426 rivets in the
# 5 size. Email me off list with what you need. I can mail a small supply
of them to you.
ACS has them listed on the web link below if you want to have a supply of
them. You can order a quantity as small as 1/8 of a pound.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/solidalumrivets.php
Charlie Kuss
>
>
>Charlie,
>
>The -5 would work, but I have not been able to find a source for them.
>The -5s I've found are flush head, all others jump from 4 to 6. Do you
>have a source for these?
>
>Another fellow suggested fattening up a longer rivet, but the holes ended
>up enlarged to a point that I'm not comfortable with this method. I
>apparently was a bit hamfisted with the rivet removal tool and elongated
>the holes slightly, so they will have to be redrilled to the next size up.
> I believe 5s will work if I can get them.
>
>- Alan
>
>
>Subject: Re: AN470AD4 "oops"
>From: Charlie Kuss (chaztuna(at)adelphia.net)
>Date: Sat Jun 25 - 3:13 PM
>
>
>Alan,
> Are your holes to large to use AD470-5 (5/32" dia) rivets? I would try
>using the -5 rivets if possible. Using a -6 rivet will leave you with less
>than 2 D hole to edge distance on the rib flange.
>Charlie Kuss
>
>
> >
> >
> >Working on the VS skeleton for my -8, I managed to end up with an
> >air gap between the main spar and top rib. Drilling out the two
> >rivets (AN470AD4-4) resulted in holes that are a bit larger than
> >an AD4 rivet. Is it acceptable to redrill these two holes and use
> >AD6 rivets?
> >
> >--
> >Alan Reichert
> >Priv, Inst, SEL
> >RV-8 N927AR (reserved)
> >Prepping Horizontal/Vertical Stabilizers for Assembly
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Brake line incident. |
>
>I just had a discussion about this very thing with Mike Burlingham who's
>RV-6A has been flying for about 6 years now. He had some fatigue cracking
>on one side due to the line flexing and fixed it rather quickly and
>inexpensively as follows:
>
>1) Go to your local autoparts store and pick up two flexible lines made for
>grease guns. These hoses are good for 3000 PSI and have male pipe thread
>fittings on each end.
>
I found them at Grainger:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/searchresults.jsp?search_type=keyword&QueryString=grease+gun+hose&catindx1=Hoses%2C&catindx2=Grease+Gun&xi=xi
Looks like a great idea! I might have to do this for my next annual.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Low oil pressure event |
>
> I was not aware there is an oil pressure relief valve. Where is it?
Top of the case, right side, behind cylinder #3. It's that thing sticking
out toward the right side. If it has a nut on the end of a threaded shaft,
it's adjustable. Otherwise it's the stacked washer style.
Grab a Lycoming parts catalog...it shows exploded views (and has part #s)
for all this stuff.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake line incident. |
>>1) Go to your local autoparts store and pick up two flexible lines made for
>>grease guns. These hoses are good for 3000 PSI and have male pipe thread
>>fittings on each end.
>>
> I found them at Grainger:
>
> http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/searchresults.jsp?search_type=keyword&QueryString=grease+gun+hose&catindx1=Hoses%2C&catindx2=Grease+Gun&xi=xi
>
> Looks like a great idea! I might have to do this for my next annual.
>
This is a good idea. I've got the Grove gear on my 8, and the
brake "line" comes out at the very bottom of the leg. This
does not leave much room for a flexible hose. Has anyone
found a solution for this? I've got some pictures here to
help clarify what I'm talking about:
http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story 050314214854320
I guess grease gun hose would be flexible enough to wrap around
there.
Thanks,
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
Doug,
Before you buy a new ICS, try tweaking the internal mic level settings.
Most intercom problems are a result of setting these levels on pots that are
accessable thru screw holes on the side or front panel on your intercom.
The Mic gain in a high noise airplane needs to be much lower than standard.
If that level is set too high, the intercom will blast you out on the ICS.
Also, if the mic's are putting out at different levels this can cause
problems. DC electret mics do not have adjustable gain, but some mics do
have adjustable gain and you can turn them down for hi-noise cockpits.
The Telex mics are terrible in high noise airplanes. The new Telex Stratus
is supposed to be better.
The Best mic for a hi-noise airplane is the old DC M-4. The new M-7 mic is
OK, but it puts out more noise so it would pick up softer voices in quiet
cockpits. Nothing beats the Old David Clark 10-40 with a Headsets Inc
conversion.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Weiler" <dcw(at)mnwing.org>
Subject: RV-List: Intercoms
>
>
> Greetings all:
>
> My RV-4 currently has a Sigtronics SP-400N intercom installed. It
> supposedly is designed for high noise environments but I don't think it is
> as effective as some other intercoms I have flown with. I am using DC ENC
> headsets and my comm. transmission are reported loud and clear so I feel
the
> microphone is not the problem.
>
> I have been impressed with the PS Engineering ICs in other RV aircraft.
> They have a high noise version (PM1200). Does anyone have any other
> experience with PS Intercoms? I am thinking about switching.
>
> Thanks
>
> Doug Weiler
> N722DW, RV-4
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake line incident. |
Grease gun hoses are typically 12" or 18" and have 1/8 in male NPT fittings.
Becareful however, there are starting to be more import grease guns that
have metric threads on them.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake line incident. |
> >I just had a discussion about this very thing with Mike Burlingham who's
> >RV-6A has been flying for about 6 years now. He had some fatigue
cracking
> >on one side due to the line flexing and fixed it rather quickly and
> >inexpensively as follows:
> >
> >1) Go to your local autoparts store and pick up two flexible lines made
for
> >grease guns. These hoses are good for 3000 PSI and have male pipe thread
> >fittings on each end.
> >
>
> I found them at Grainger:
>
>
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/searchresults.jsp?search_type=keyword&QueryString=grease+gun+hose&catindx1=Hoses%2C&catindx2=Grease+Gun&xi=xi
>
> Looks like a great idea! I might have to do this for my next annual.
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> RV10 '51
This does look like a good idea, but wouldn't you have to replace them in
five years since they are rubber? I think I'll use this technique, but make
the foot long lower ends from teflon/stainless material that is lifetime.
Undoubtedly more expensive, but worth it if you never have to mess with them
again.
Randy Lervold
www.rv-3.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gregg Costabile" <gcostabile(at)cyou.com> |
| Subject: | Montague Bike(s) in an RV-6 |
Anybody ever try to fit a Montague bicycle in the back of an RV-6? Were you successful?
Room for two bikes? Appreciate any help.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Spear" <jerryspear(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Compass Swinging |
Left is N-S, Right is E-W.
Jerry Spear
N718TS
----- Original Message -----
From: "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Compass Swinging
>
> Gentlemen,
>
> I have a Precision vertical compass card. I need to swing my compass and
> have misplaced the documents that came with the compass. There are two
> adjustments at the bottom, one for N-S and the other for E-W. Can anyone
> tell me which is which?
>
>
> Vince
>
>
> --
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Spear" <jerryspear(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Compass Swinging |
Oh, yeah forgot something..........Factory said not to turn the
adjustments more than 180 degrees or it will strip the threads !
Jerry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Spear" <jerryspear(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Compass Swinging
> Left is N-S, Right is E-W.
>
> Jerry Spear
> N718TS
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com>
> To:
> Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2005 12:26 AM
> Subject: RV-List: Compass Swinging
>
>
> >
> > Gentlemen,
> >
> > I have a Precision vertical compass card. I need to swing my compass
and
> > have misplaced the documents that came with the compass. There are two
> > adjustments at the bottom, one for N-S and the other for E-W. Can
anyone
> > tell me which is which?
> >
> >
> > Vince
> >
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Weiler <dcw(at)mnwing.org> |
HI Doug:
Yes, you are right.. My DC headsets do not have a mic gain control. When I
initially fly my airplane, the GX-65 did not transmit clearly. I cranked
the mic gain down through the GX setup page and now all transmissions are
crystal clear.
Actually the IC is not all that bad. Its just that whenever I get into
another airplane that uses the Garmin audio panel or PS Engineering Ics, I
am really impressed.
Thanks for all the tips!
Doug
On 6/26/05 10:06 AM, "Doug Rozendaal" wrote:
>
> Doug,
>
> Before you buy a new ICS, try tweaking the internal mic level settings.
> Most intercom problems are a result of setting these levels on pots that are
> accessable thru screw holes on the side or front panel on your intercom.
> The Mic gain in a high noise airplane needs to be much lower than standard.
> If that level is set too high, the intercom will blast you out on the ICS.
> Also, if the mic's are putting out at different levels this can cause
> problems. DC electret mics do not have adjustable gain, but some mics do
> have adjustable gain and you can turn them down for hi-noise cockpits.
>
> The Telex mics are terrible in high noise airplanes. The new Telex Stratus
> is supposed to be better.
>
> The Best mic for a hi-noise airplane is the old DC M-4. The new M-7 mic is
> OK, but it puts out more noise so it would pick up softer voices in quiet
> cockpits. Nothing beats the Old David Clark 10-40 with a Headsets Inc
> conversion.
>
> Tailwinds,
> Doug Rozendaal
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Doug Weiler" <dcw(at)mnwing.org>
> To: "RV List"
> Subject: RV-List: Intercoms
>
>
>>
>>
>> Greetings all:
>>
>> My RV-4 currently has a Sigtronics SP-400N intercom installed. It
>> supposedly is designed for high noise environments but I don't think it is
>> as effective as some other intercoms I have flown with. I am using DC ENC
>> headsets and my comm. transmission are reported loud and clear so I feel
> the
>> microphone is not the problem.
>>
>> I have been impressed with the PS Engineering ICs in other RV aircraft.
>> They have a high noise version (PM1200). Does anyone have any other
>> experience with PS Intercoms? I am thinking about switching.
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Doug Weiler
>> N722DW, RV-4
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greg Grigson <iflyhawaii2(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Ground Power Runs for FAA Compliance? |
What experiences and thoughts are out there concerning
techniques used to perform an engine run in a "nose
high above stall attitude to ensure full fuel flow
full"? It sounds like it could be a little risky. I
hope this doesn't mean a full power run. In the 6A is
the tail tied down to...what?
This is out of the EAA "Amateur-Built Aircraft
Certification Inspection Guide" developed for ASIs and
DARs. Is this a requirement that those already flying
have done and documented?
Thanks.
Greg in Honolulu
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Montague Bike(s) in an RV-6 |
Howdy,
I had trouble getting a Dahon bike in an RV-6a tip-up. The issue was
getting it past the seat back and under the roll over structure. I ended
up removing the co-pilot's seat cushions and stick and strapping it
there with the harness. A sliding canopy leaves a couple inches more
clearance for getting in large stuff. On my RV-6 project, I'm doing the
tip-up slider mod and a folding bike will be much easier to load. That
being said, 2 bikes is likely to be a tough one, particularly Montagues.
Look at the folded size claimed and see if you think 2 will make it. My
guess is that it would be close, maybe too close. My wife is much
smaller than myself so a Montague and a Dahon may be the way we'll end
up. There are tandem folding bikes out there too, if you've got the
money.
On another note, I was checking out a guy's Mustang 2 the other day, and
we should be happy we've got a nice size baggage compartment because
they don't even. I don't see how you could get much more than a couple
of soft sided briefcases in there much less a bike.
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gregg Costabile
Subject: RV-List: Montague Bike(s) in an RV-6
Anybody ever try to fit a Montague bicycle in the back of an RV-6? Were
you successful? Room for two bikes? Appreciate any help.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Ground Power Runs for FAA Compliance? |
Greg,
Prop the airplane in a nose high attitude, disconnect the fuel line at
the carb and time how long it takes to pump a pint or a quart into a
container. Do the math for GPH. If I remember right, you want to see at
least 1.5 times your max fuel burn.
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Greg Grigson
Subject: RV-List: Ground Power Runs for FAA Compliance?
What experiences and thoughts are out there concerning
techniques used to perform an engine run in a "nose
high above stall attitude to ensure full fuel flow
full"? It sounds like it could be a little risky. I
hope this doesn't mean a full power run. In the 6A is
the tail tied down to...what?
This is out of the EAA "Amateur-Built Aircraft
Certification Inspection Guide" developed for ASIs and
DARs. Is this a requirement that those already flying
have done and documented?
Thanks.
Greg in Honolulu
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)comcast.net> |
June 12, 2005 - June 26, 2005
RV-Archive.digest.vol-qz