RV-Archive.digest.vol-rb
July 08, 2005 - July 20, 2005
I cut the bottom out of a one gallon plastic milk jug then wedge it in, from
the bottom, in such a way that the edge goes past the lip of the filter.
The oil that starts dripping as you remove the filter goes right into the
jug. Remove the filter while keeping the jug sort of upright.
I have gone from making a huge mess every change, to spilling from nothing
to maybe a couple of drops, using this system.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://n5lp.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Spin-on oil filters |
Haven't seen this suggestion yet: For the horiaontl flters, take a nail
and punch a hole in the 'top' of the can near the bottom. Place milk
bottle/cut oil bottle/jar etc. underneath the filter to catch the oil
from the hole you just punched. Unscrew the filter 1/2 turn and punch
another hole in the 'top'. This will take care of most of the oil
captured in the filter and let it drain into the engine or your catch can.
Linn
Alex Peterson wrote:
>
>
>
>>
>>Hi Listers,
>>
>>After two oil changes on a new O-320-D1A, I still don't have a good way
>>to control the oil that runs out of the spin-on filter as I remove it. I
>>have tried packing paper towels under the filter edge and the suggestion
>>from Lycoming of putting a plastic bag over the filter. The result has,
>>so far, been an unsatisfactory mess that requires soaking up the run
>>down with paper towels.
>>
>>
>
>Richard, I cut the bottom 2" or so from a gallon milk jug. It needs to be
>the relatively flexible type, and I stuff it under the filter until the
>forward edge comes up higher than the lower front of the filter. I also
>punch a hole in the filter at the top. The sequence is important - I drain
>the sump and punch this hole when the engine is hot. I go home and come
>back the next day to remove the filter when it is cold, and this makes it a
>LOT easier to avoid slopping oil. I then either stuff paper towels in the
>milk carton to absorb the oil or suck it out with something like a basting
>bulb.
>
>
>
>
>>The second problem is in removing the filter medium from the core of the
>>filter after cutting the end off with an Air Wolf filter cutter. I've
>>tried scissors, hacksaw and sheet metal shears. All are arduous and only
>>semi satisfactory.
>>
>>
>
>Single edge razor blades.
>
>Alex Peterson
>RV6A N66AP 635 hours
>Maple Grove, MN
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Spin-on oil filters |
Haven't seen this suggestion yet: For the horiaontl flters, take a nail
and punch a hole in the 'top' of the can near the bottom. Place milk
bottle/cut oil bottle/jar etc. underneath the filter to catch the oil
from the hole you just punched. Unscrew the filter 1/2 turn and punch
another hole in the 'top'. This will take care of most of the oil
captured in the filter and let it drain into the engine or your catch
can. Placing a baggie over the filter when you get ready to remove it
helps too.
Linn
Alex Peterson wrote:
>
>
>
>>
>>Hi Listers,
>>
>>After two oil changes on a new O-320-D1A, I still don't have a good way
>>to control the oil that runs out of the spin-on filter as I remove it. I
>>have tried packing paper towels under the filter edge and the suggestion
>>from Lycoming of putting a plastic bag over the filter. The result has,
>>so far, been an unsatisfactory mess that requires soaking up the run
>>down with paper towels.
>>
>>
>
>Richard, I cut the bottom 2" or so from a gallon milk jug. It needs to be
>the relatively flexible type, and I stuff it under the filter until the
>forward edge comes up higher than the lower front of the filter. I also
>punch a hole in the filter at the top. The sequence is important - I drain
>the sump and punch this hole when the engine is hot. I go home and come
>back the next day to remove the filter when it is cold, and this makes it a
>LOT easier to avoid slopping oil. I then either stuff paper towels in the
>milk carton to absorb the oil or suck it out with something like a basting
>bulb.
>
>
>
>
>>The second problem is in removing the filter medium from the core of the
>>filter after cutting the end off with an Air Wolf filter cutter. I've
>>tried scissors, hacksaw and sheet metal shears. All are arduous and only
>>semi satisfactory.
>>
>>
>
>Single edge razor blades.
>
>Alex Peterson
>RV6A N66AP 635 hours
>Maple Grove, MN
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "oliver h washburn" <ollie6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Spin-on oil filters |
Also if you don't have a lot of room do every you said except use a doggie
bag or zip lock over the filter and let the oil drain into that.Works for
me.
Ollie Washburn Central FL.
> [Original Message]
> From: linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com>
> To:
> Date: 7/8/2005 1:08:58 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Spin-on oil filters
>
>
> Haven't seen this suggestion yet: For the horiaontl flters, take a nail
> and punch a hole in the 'top' of the can near the bottom. Place milk
> bottle/cut oil bottle/jar etc. underneath the filter to catch the oil
> from the hole you just punched. Unscrew the filter 1/2 turn and punch
> another hole in the 'top'. This will take care of most of the oil
> captured in the filter and let it drain into the engine or your catch
> can. Placing a baggie over the filter when you get ready to remove it
> helps too.
> Linn
>
>
> Alex Peterson wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >
> >>
> >>Hi Listers,
> >>
> >>After two oil changes on a new O-320-D1A, I still don't have a good way
> >>to control the oil that runs out of the spin-on filter as I remove it. I
> >>have tried packing paper towels under the filter edge and the suggestion
> >>from Lycoming of putting a plastic bag over the filter. The result has,
> >>so far, been an unsatisfactory mess that requires soaking up the run
> >>down with paper towels.
> >>
> >>
> >
> >Richard, I cut the bottom 2" or so from a gallon milk jug. It needs to
be
> >the relatively flexible type, and I stuff it under the filter until the
> >forward edge comes up higher than the lower front of the filter. I also
> >punch a hole in the filter at the top. The sequence is important - I
drain
> >the sump and punch this hole when the engine is hot. I go home and come
> >back the next day to remove the filter when it is cold, and this makes
it a
> >LOT easier to avoid slopping oil. I then either stuff paper towels in
the
> >milk carton to absorb the oil or suck it out with something like a
basting
> >bulb.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >>The second problem is in removing the filter medium from the core of the
> >>filter after cutting the end off with an Air Wolf filter cutter. I've
> >>tried scissors, hacksaw and sheet metal shears. All are arduous and only
> >>semi satisfactory.
> >>
> >>
> >
> >Single edge razor blades.
> >
> >Alex Peterson
> >RV6A N66AP 635 hours
> >Maple Grove, MN
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Cabin heat from oil cooler (was: Exhaust Wrap Ceramic coating) |
Has anyone used the oil cooler to heat their RV cabin? (as a stand alone cabin
heater with out an exhaust heat muff)
As Michael Sausen stated the Long-EZ guys do this, but their cabin is smaller and
may be better insulated. Is there enough heat coming off the oil cooler at
altitude to heat the cabin. In cruise at altitude the oil temp is lower because
the engine is at a lower power output and the ambient air temps are cooler.
Cheers George
Re: Exhaust Wrap (Ceramic coating)
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
George,
You're right about the heat muff. Not only is it probably not practical
but
I doubt they even could as it would probably be extremely difficult to "mask"
an area inside the pipe. As far as the oil cooler for heating goes, most
of the
pusher crowd use this arrangement very well for cabin heat. With them you
have to worry about getting the oil from the back of the aircraft to the
front
which introduces the possibility of a burst oil line in the cockpit. With
us
conventional crowd you could still keep the cooler in the engine compartment
and build a shroud around it with a waste gate to divert overboard when not
in
use.
Probably not practical for smaller engines but if you have an oil cooler
anyway
it might not be much more work and it is a lot safer than taking it off the
exhaust.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Tailcone
________________________________
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com
Subject: RV-List: Re: Exhaust Wrap (Ceramic coating)
Glen:
Your right, with ceramic coating will have little if any heat off the heat
muff
for cabin heat. This may be the single reason, if only one reason for not
doing
the coating thing, but it is very much an issue since we use exhaust heat
to
warm the cabin. Using oil cooler for heat, OK. How is that going to work
thermodynamically
BTU wise, not to mention the engineering of the system. My guess
is the 1000F off the exhaust pipe has more heating capacity than the oil
cooler
at 200-250F.
I would imagine having the coating start and stop in the heat muff area would
be
a no no. With the lack of continuity in coating you would have a hot spot
and
thermal stresses from different metal temps.
Cheers George
Match: #4 Message: #131849 Date: Jul 04, 2005 From: Glen Matejcek <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Exhaust Wrap (Ceramic coating)
Hi All-
I never took themro nor do I have any first hand experience with ceramic
coatings,
but something has occurred to me WRT the ceramic coated exhaust thread.
What
happens to your cabin heat if you put this coating on your exhaust? I understand
that there is a difference between radiating IR and direct conduction
/ heat transfer, but I have no idea what this implies for keeping our toes
warm
in the wintertime. Thoughts?
gm
Glen Matejcek
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once |
On 07/08 1:28, Paul Folbrecht wrote:
>
> Don't most (many?) elect to not prime the alclad skins? I am not
> planning on doing the skins.
>
> Perhaps a long thread on priming is in order? (Ducking...)
Ok, I just gotta leap in here with both feet and arms flailing.
If (when) I build the next plane (aluminum of course) I will
NOT
prime anything. There, I said it and I meant it.
I could have built my plane several months earlier had I not
primed. It would have cost less. It would weigh less. I wouldn't
have cans of nasty primer mix sitting in my garage. I would
have one less HVLP paint gun, on and on and on and on. Do
you know how many hangers I could have saved? They never
had a chance.
And the plane is still going to outlast my desire to fly it.
And it's resale value is going to be just as much as primed,
ok maybe a few percent less, Big Deal. We worry about that
but we consider the time (2000+ hrs.) we put into the plane
as free? Yeah, that makes sense.
Don't Do It. Just, step away from the primer and walk back
into the house. Have a cold one and start riveting, without
priming. This is the only way to kill the primer war thread.
:)
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at |
once
Richard,
Yes, tagging the parts adds work. I live in SE Florida (Corrosion Capital of the
World), so I applied two coats of Mil Spec epoxy primer. This would be over
kill for most folks on the list. The second coat always buried the Sharpie ID
marks, so I resorted to the tags.
Your method sound like a good way to go for folks living in more moderate climates.
Charlie Kuss
---- Richard Scott wrote:
>
> Wow! Tagging all those parts seems like a lot of work!
>
> Priming is supposed to result in a thin coat.
>
> I clean my parts with acetone, which removes the Sharpie part nos. As soon
> as I clean a part, I re mark the number with the Sharpie.
>
> I place the parts on a screen frame in order and spray away. The part
> number still shows thru unless I spray too heavily. If the coat is too
> heavy on a few parts, I can re mark them because I set them down in
> order. This hasn't happened very often.
>
> FWIW, I am using plain old zinc chromate yellow--don't ask me where I got
> it as there isn't enough to go around.
>
> Richard Scott
> RV-9A
> Wings
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re:Cabinheat from oil cooler |
Definitely not worth the trouble to install for a test. I tried it and it
doesn't work well at all.
When you throttle back a bit for a long descent from altitude you'll freeze
your butt.
The oil cooler only gives temps. in the 250 degree range. An exhaust heat
muff gets heat in the 1200 - 1400 degree range. No comparison in efficiency.
Hope this helps.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DonVS" <dsvs(at)comcast.net> |
test
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Cabin heat from oil cooler |
> The oil cooler only gives temps. in the 250 degree range. An exhaust heat
> muff gets heat in the 1200 - 1400 degree range. No comparison in efficiency.
> Hope this helps.
As you said, there are huge differences in how you
get heat into the cabin if your source is 1200F or
if it is 200F.
I think the only way to make this work would be to do
it like in autos - that is to bring a small heat exchanger
into the cabin. Of course, in cars the heater core is
circulating engine coolant, which never gets much over
the boiling point of water.
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don VS" <dsvs(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Cabin heat from oil cooler |
Exhaust heat muffs are very inefficient because there is very little
"heated area" and therefore very little contact time between the air and the
heated part. An oil cooler on the other hand has huge surface area that the
air contacts at a slower velocity allowing a large amount of heat transfer.
Most people stuff steel wool or other metal into their exhaust muffs in an
attempt to slow the air flow and give larger surface area for the transfer
to occur on. The large heat transfer capability of an oil cooler should put
out the same type of heat levels as an automotive heater as long as the oil
entering it remains at a high enough temperature. For very cold operations
an adjustable restrictor could be used on the air input side of the oil
cooler. Just my thoughts, I have not tried these.
Don
RV7 Finish Kit
N12VS Reserved
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mickey Coggins
Subject: RV-List: Cabin heat from oil cooler
> The oil cooler only gives temps. in the 250 degree range. An exhaust
heat
> muff gets heat in the 1200 - 1400 degree range. No comparison in
efficiency.
> Hope this helps.
As you said, there are huge differences in how you
get heat into the cabin if your source is 1200F or
if it is 200F.
I think the only way to make this work would be to do
it like in autos - that is to bring a small heat exchanger
into the cabin. Of course, in cars the heater core is
circulating engine coolant, which never gets much over
the boiling point of water.
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "sheldon barrett" <sheldonb(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | RE: Cabin heat from oil cooler |
I have the large oil cooler firewall mounted (right side) with Van's kit... 3"
scat tube air supply from the baffle back... (RV6A..0-360)... Made a diverter
box on the bottom of the oil cooler to divert the warm air into the cockpit...
WORKS GREAT! Keeps my wife's tootsies nice and warm... She plays with the push-pull
cable knob to set the airflow/temp just as she wants it... (She thinks
she is helping me flying the plane)..
Oil temps with my set-up have always been right on.. never had a hot oil temp problem...
During the winters here in the high Arizona country, I had to finally
install a cockpit control to open/close the amount of cooling air into the cooler...This
allowed me to warm up the oil quicker... The heat from the oil cooler
seems to always work giving us some heat in the cockpit... The volume from
the heat valve can blow warm air filling the cabin too much sometimes... (Yes,
the engine has to warm up first.) I think it's how it's implemented if it
works or not...
Sheldon RV6A 0360 350 hours...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RE: Cabin heat from oil cooler |
>
>
> I have the large oil cooler firewall mounted (right side) with Van's
> kit... 3" scat tube air supply from the baffle back... (RV6A..0-360)...
> Made a diverter box on the bottom of the oil cooler to divert the warm air
> into the cockpit... WORKS GREAT! Keeps my wife's tootsies nice and warm...
> She plays with the push-pull cable knob to set the airflow/temp just as
> she wants it... (She thinks she is helping me flying the plane)..
> Oil temps with my set-up have always been right on.. never had a hot oil
> temp problem... During the winters here in the high Arizona country, I had
> to finally install a cockpit control to open/close the amount of cooling
> air into the cooler...This allowed me to warm up the oil quicker... The
> heat from the oil cooler seems to always work giving us some heat in the
> cockpit... The volume from the heat valve can blow warm air filling the
> cabin too much sometimes... (Yes, the engine has to warm up first.) I
> think it's how it's implemented if it works or not...
> Sheldon RV6A 0360 350 hours...
Sheldon, what is the coldest OAT you have flown this setup in? My
experience is that keeping the cockpit warm down to about 15 to 20 F is
easy. Keeping it warm in the 0 to minus 10 F range is when one will really
tell how effective the heater is.
Alex Peterson
RV6A N66AP 635 hours
Maple Grove, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cabin heat from oil cooler |
HI-THE OIL COOLER DOESN'T WORK, WHEN YOU NEED THE HEAT THE MOST THE OIL
COOLER IS USUALLY THE COLDEST CIRCULATION STARTS WHEN ENGINE OIL TEMP GETS TO 170
DEGREES-TOM
THOMAS M WHELAN WHELAN FARMS AIRPORT 249 HARD HILL RD NORTH POBOX426
BETHLEHEM CT 06751 TEL 203-2665300 WFACT01(at)AOL.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at onceBrainstorming |
- priming/drying a lot of parts at once
Right from the first priming parts session, I "Bit the Bullet" and made about 2
dozen heavy duty hooks out galvanized fence wire and formed them into circles
about 2" dia. I bent the ends so that they could be hooked together after threading
them through holes in the small parts near their edges or sides. So I finish
up with a daisy chain of parts which I then proceed to hang between 2 -
2x6 "L" brackets clamped to a long table. BUT in order to turn the parts while
spraying, the daisy chain was connected at each end, next to the "L" brackets,
to sections of ball-link key chain. This allows easy swiveling of the parts
without twisting any wires or hangers. Worked Great!
I primed larger parts by hanging them from the shop ceiling, again using the swivel
link to allow easy turning.
Henry Hore
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cabin heat from oil cooler |
Thanks Mickey,
Yes, I am too lazy to put two brain cells together and calculate the heat requirement
myself. My gut feel is it is not enough heat to be comfortable and other
factors make this idea impractical. I do have the engineering back ground to
figure it out heat transfer, but there are so many variables and I don't have
enough data.
When you are talking HVAC (heating ventilation & air-conditioning) there are many
variables that equal comfort to a human. An experiment with a typical RV in
winter that has plenty of cabin heat (using exhaust heat muffs) would be in order,
measuring the effective BTU's the system is capable of. Calculation of the
BTU's for the oil cooler would be possible. However you would need to have
a blower fan (to get the proper mass flow) which complicates it. Also if it is
real cold the vernatherm will just cut the oil cooler out of the loop.
The exhaust heat exchanger is going to end up lighter and simpler. The obvious
advantage is less chance of CO getting into the cabin. The bad part is oil line
or core leaks could get hot oil into cabin.
As far as comparing an auto heater core and airplane oil cooler as a cabin heater,
my gut feel is auto heat exchangers put out more heat due to high volume of
coolant flow vs. the that of an airplane oil cooler. Airplane oil coolers will
flow much less oil than a car's heat exchanger is my guess. Also, cars are
easier to heat because they are air tight and have better insulation, even if
the volume of air to heat is larger.
One thing that is holding me back from an analytical estimate of the BTU's needed
to heat the cabin of a RV are the variables. Some RV's have more air leaks
for example. I would not want to even think of this mod if there was no chance
it would work, and that is my guess right now, it won't work, despite the long-EZ
guys. Also you would have to run oil lines into the cabin or have a large
firewall penetrations of the oil cooler air.
Back to my and Van's mantra:
"Keep it simple, keep it light & build it to plans".
-OR-
"Changing anything from plans usually adds cost, weight and build time"
Think I talked myself out of it, and no ceramic coating to my RV-7 headers, If
I am wrong and someone is heating their RV successfully with just an oil cooler
let me know.
Cheers George.
From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject: Cabin heat from oil cooler
> The oil cooler only gives temps. in the 250 degree range. An exhaust
heat
> muff gets heat in the 1200 - 1400 degree range. No comparison in efficiency.
> Hope this helps.
As you said, there are huge differences in how you
get heat into the cabin if your source is 1200F or
if it is 200F.
I think the only way to make this work would be to do
it like in autos - that is to bring a small heat exchanger
into the cabin. Of course, in cars the heater core is
circulating engine coolant, which never gets much over
the boiling point of water.
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Mortimore <terry.mortimore(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Educate me please - Carb mounting location on older O-320 in |
a RV6A
Hi Gang:
I've come across an older O-320 here in town and I'd like to try and use it for
my RV-6A. A fellow from Leavens (rebuild shop) told me that I had to watch the
older O-320 because the carb mounting location was to the rear of the engine
and could interfere with the RV-6A Nose Gear assembly.
Any one have any experience with this? Are there oil pans (newer versions?) that
move the carb forward to clear the 6A gear?
The data plate on the engine just has O-320 on it, no letters following it. It
is a conical mount.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Tailwinds, Terry.
Terry Mortimore,
426 McNabb Street Apt #4,
Sault Ste Marie, Ontario
Canada P6B-1Z3
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert St.Denis" <rob(at)iahu.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? |
I'm in the process of setting up my shop for my -10 and I ended up
picking up a cheapy mastercraft air drill for all of 40cad ... figure
itll do just as well as the sioux for 250usd
Doug Cook wrote:
>
>Paul,
>
>I'm well into my RV-7A Q-Build and have gotten by quite well with a hand hacksaw.
>I have also used a Sears 3/8 electric drill for the whole project. I attended
an RV builders clinic and didn't see the benefit in a high speed, loud, and expensive
air drill that I used there. The 3/8 drill is the way to go.
>
>Doug - RV-7A in progress in San Diego
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alison and Neil <alisonandneil(at)direcway.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once |
I agree, except I will be priming the non alclad stuff. Hey Walter did you
figure out the EIS tach problem? I'm have the same situation. I have the EIS
wired into the E-mag tach sender and there is no indicaton of RPM. I hate to
cut into my nice neat wiring to wire it to the conventional mag to see if
the problem is the EIS or the E-mag.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Tondu" <walter(at)tondu.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once
>
> On 07/08 1:28, Paul Folbrecht wrote:
>
> >
> > Don't most (many?) elect to not prime the alclad skins? I am not
> > planning on doing the skins.
> >
> > Perhaps a long thread on priming is in order? (Ducking...)
>
> Ok, I just gotta leap in here with both feet and arms flailing.
> If (when) I build the next plane (aluminum of course) I will
>
> NOT
>
> prime anything. There, I said it and I meant it.
>
> I could have built my plane several months earlier had I not
> primed. It would have cost less. It would weigh less. I wouldn't
> have cans of nasty primer mix sitting in my garage. I would
> have one less HVLP paint gun, on and on and on and on. Do
> you know how many hangers I could have saved? They never
> had a chance.
>
> And the plane is still going to outlast my desire to fly it.
> And it's resale value is going to be just as much as primed,
> ok maybe a few percent less, Big Deal. We worry about that
> but we consider the time (2000+ hrs.) we put into the plane
> as free? Yeah, that makes sense.
>
> Don't Do It. Just, step away from the primer and walk back
> into the house. Have a cold one and start riveting, without
> priming. This is the only way to kill the primer war thread.
>
> :)
> --
> Walter Tondu
> http://www.rv7-a.com
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? |
Probably not. I got the chance to see the difference between a $75 air drill
and the $200 Sioux myself at the EAA SportAir workshop I attended. I bought
the Sioux. It has a much more sensitive trigger, allowing you to vary the
speed, and is much quieter.
--- "Robert St.Denis" wrote:
>
> I'm in the process of setting up my shop for my -10 and I ended up
> picking up a cheapy mastercraft air drill for all of 40cad ... figure
> itll do just as well as the sioux for 250usd
>
> Doug Cook wrote:
>
> >
> >Paul,
> >
> >I'm well into my RV-7A Q-Build and have gotten by quite well with a hand
> hacksaw.
> >I have also used a Sears 3/8 electric drill for the whole project. I
> attended an RV builders clinic and didn't see the benefit in a high speed,
> loud, and expensive air drill that I used there. The 3/8 drill is the way to
> go.
> >
> >Doug - RV-7A in progress in San Diego
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Educate me please - Carb mounting location on older O-320 |
in a RV6A
Terry:
Lycoming did make a O-320 with no numbers after it. Sounds like it is a
NARROW DECK engine. The Narrow deck engine uses what looks like allen head
nuts to hold the cylinders to the engine.
I have an O-320 B2B narrow deck that I converted to constant speed
operation. My engine would NOT work on an RV-6A as the cab sits very far
back on the sump.
About the only way you will be able to tell if it will work is to look at
it and one mounted on a flying RV-6A. Measure with a ruler the distance
from the carb to the back of the oil sump.
I can tell just by looking that the engine in my -6 would not work in a -6A
becasue of the location of the updraft carb on the sump. No way to tell if
the one you found will work or not.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,694 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: Terry Mortimore <terry.mortimore(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: RV-List: Educate me please - Carb mounting location on older O-320
in a RV6A
Date: Sat, 09 Jul 2005 14:48:18 -0400
Hi Gang:
I've come across an older O-320 here in town and I'd like to try and use it
for my RV-6A. A fellow from Leavens (rebuild shop) told me that I had to
watch the older O-320 because the carb mounting location was to the rear of
the engine and could interfere with the RV-6A Nose Gear assembly.
Any one have any experience with this? Are there oil pans (newer versions?)
that move the carb forward to clear the 6A gear?
The data plate on the engine just has O-320 on it, no letters following it.
It is a conical mount.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Tailwinds, Terry.
Terry Mortimore,
426 McNabb Street Apt #4,
Sault Ste Marie, Ontario
Canada P6B-1Z3
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Mortimore <terry.mortimore(at)shaw.ca> in a RV6A |
| Subject: | Re: Educate me please - Carb mounting location on older O-320 |
in a RV6A
RV6 Flyer wrote:
>Terry:
>
>Lycoming did make a O-320 with no numbers after it. Sounds like it is a
>NARROW DECK engine. The Narrow deck engine uses what looks like allen head
>nuts to hold the cylinders to the engine.
>
>I have an O-320 B2B narrow deck that I converted to constant speed
>operation. My engine would NOT work on an RV-6A as the cab sits very far
>back on the sump.
>
>About the only way you will be able to tell if it will work is to look at
>it and one mounted on a flying RV-6A. Measure with a ruler the distance
>from the carb to the back of the oil sump.
>
>I can tell just by looking that the engine in my -6 would not work in a -6A
>becasue of the location of the updraft carb on the sump. No way to tell if
>the one you found will work or not.
>
>Gary A. Sobek
>
Hi Gary, thanks for the reply.
This engine is disassembled and I thought I would start looking for a oil pan that
would move the carb location forward. I have seen a few pans on Ebay, but
so far they look like the same carb location as the one on this engine. This assumes
that all the pans would have the same bolt patterns which I'll have to
confirm before long.
I'll have to go down and have another look at the cylinder mounting method and
get the serial number from the engine.
My fuselage kit won't be ordered until this September so I have time to learn more
about these things.
Thanks again, Terry.
Terry Mortimore,
426 McNabb Street Apt #4,
Sault Ste Marie, Ontario
Canada P6B-1Z3
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chuck <chuck515tigger(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Blasphemy or what? |
I know some will say this question is sacrilegious, but ... Has anyone used
round head rivets to build an RV or are there any estimates on drag/lost performance
with round verses flush rivets?
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "c.ennis" <c.ennis(at)insightbb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cabin heat from oil cooler |
Electric heater for your RV. Hi-tech compact heater draws 25 amps @ 12VDC.
1100BTU. Controls include fan, heat and thermostat. 5 1/4 x 7 3/4 x 8 1/4"
unit installs easily. Weight; 6 lbs. Constant heat output at all altitudes,
unlike heat muff. Currently flying in RV's for over 2 years. $99.00 plus
$8.00 freight. AIRTECH,, 4480 Treat Blvd. #316, Concord, CA. 94521, USA,
phone (510) 68504809 fax (510) 825-4755
There you go guys, this ad and a photo of the unit mounted between the
rudder pedals of an RV4 have been in my files for several years...Back when
I was finishing up the interior of my 6A I found Airtech on the internet..so
they are most likely still in business. No I didn't install one but I was
tempted, 25 amp draw scared me off.
Charlie Ennis
Test phase over now I need somewhere to go.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "c.ennis" <c.ennis(at)insightbb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Blasphemy or what? |
Could be an urban legend, but I remember a story I read some time ago about
the RAF doing some studies on WWII fighters. Story goes they glued split
peas to the fuselage over the flush rivits...As I remember they decided to
continue with flush rivits on the leading edges and half way back the wing.
If you have seen the AVIATOR movie, Howard Hughes seemed to have a
facination with this concept and used flush rivits on the H1....2 more
reasons for using flush rivits,.. they don't pick up as many thraeds when
you wash your plane and round rivits are butt ugly. Just my opinion.
Charlie Ennis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once |
On 07/09 2:42, Alison and Neil wrote:
>
> I agree, except I will be priming the non alclad stuff. Hey Walter did you
> figure out the EIS tach problem? I'm have the same situation. I have the EIS
> wired into the E-mag tach sender and there is no indicaton of RPM. I hate to
> cut into my nice neat wiring to wire it to the conventional mag to see if
> the problem is the EIS or the E-mag.
If you have LASAR ignition, I'm assuming you don't since you
mentioned E-mag, then there is a quick fix from GRT you can
do. It involves cutting the lead to a resistor in the EIS box.
Trust me, it's a simple 2 minute operation. Very easy. I'm
not sure if that applies to E-mag or not. You'll have to call
them. But my issues have been solved. :)
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: pneumatic squeezer |
> Go for the standard squeezer. Then buy a longeron yoke and a the largest
no
> die yoke you can find. You will use all of these many times. The best
part
> is the yokes will also fit your hand squeezer.
I think that this is good advice from Gary. The only gotcha is that you
must purchase the hand squeezer that works with the pneumatic squeezer
yokes. Many do not...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "james frierson" <tn3639(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Educate me please - Carb mounting location on older O-320 |
in a RV6A
I have the same engine in my -6A and I did have to find a sump with the carb
in the middle. The sump also uses larger diameter induction tubes. Not sure
what it came from but it works well and there was no problems with the bolt
pattern. However, there are some internal deference's you need to be aware
of. The original sump, rear carb, had a pickup tube for the oil pump that
bolts to the accessory case. This will need to be disgarded and the mounting
holes blocked off as the newer mid carb design uses a passage built into the
sump as an oil pickup. This was done by fabricating a plate the size and
shape of the pickup tube flange and using the original bolts and a new
gasket. The accessory case has an allen head plug in the oil passage that
will need to be removed to allow the oil to get to the oil pump. All in all
the conversion was not a big problem and is working well. The biggest
problem was finding the newer sump.
Scott
R162RV
Flying
>From: Terry Mortimore <terry.mortimore(at)shaw.ca>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com.Netscape/7.1 (ax)
>Subject: RV-List: Educate me please - Carb mounting location on older O-320
>in a RV6A
>Date: Sat, 09 Jul 2005 14:48:18 -0400
>
>
>Hi Gang:
>
>I've come across an older O-320 here in town and I'd like to try and use it
>for my RV-6A. A fellow from Leavens (rebuild shop) told me that I had to
>watch the older O-320 because the carb mounting location was to the rear of
>the engine and could interfere with the RV-6A Nose Gear assembly.
>
>Any one have any experience with this? Are there oil pans (newer versions?)
>that move the carb forward to clear the 6A gear?
>
>The data plate on the engine just has O-320 on it, no letters following it.
>It is a conical mount.
>
>Any thoughts would be appreciated.
>
>
> Tailwinds, Terry.
>
>
>Terry Mortimore,
>426 McNabb Street Apt #4,
>Sault Ste Marie, Ontario
>Canada P6B-1Z3
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "H.Ivan Haecker" <baremetl(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cabin heat from oil cooler |
autolearn=no version=3.0.2
I bought one of these years ago and mounted it in my -4 forward of the
control stick and had it canted slightly upward. It had a switch that
allowed you to run either 2 or all 3 of the coil heating elements. All it
did was suck electricity and possibly raise the temperature of my crotch 1
degree. Nicely made but of little use in my plane. Free to anyone who wants
it if I still have it.
Ivan Haecker -4 1165hrs. S. Cen. TX
p.s. I don't need a heater, I need an air conditioner!!!!
----- Original Message -----
From: "c.ennis" <c.ennis(at)insightbb.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cabin heat from oil cooler
>
> Electric heater for your RV. Hi-tech compact heater draws 25 amps @ 12VDC.
> 1100BTU. Controls include fan, heat and thermostat. 5 1/4 x 7 3/4 x 8 1/4"
> unit installs easily. Weight; 6 lbs. Constant heat output at all
altitudes,
> unlike heat muff. Currently flying in RV's for over 2 years. $99.00 plus
> $8.00 freight. AIRTECH,, 4480 Treat Blvd. #316, Concord, CA. 94521, USA,
> phone (510) 68504809 fax (510) 825-4755
>
> There you go guys, this ad and a photo of the unit mounted between the
> rudder pedals of an RV4 have been in my files for several years...Back
when
> I was finishing up the interior of my 6A I found Airtech on the
internet..so
> they are most likely still in business. No I didn't install one but I was
> tempted, 25 amp draw scared me off.
> Charlie Ennis
> Test phase over now I need somewhere to go.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Wilson <dcwilson(at)budget.net> |
| Subject: | oshkosh- Univ of Wisc. room |
I have a room reserved and paid for which is available. Cost is $44 per
night. I paid for 3 nights which can be extended for the entire week.
Anyone interested please contact me off list. Thanks--Don
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Problem with instrument panel fit |
Anybody have this problem?
I finished my panel months ago and trial fit it several times with the top skin
clecoed on. Everything fit and all holes around the perimeter of the panel lined
up. Now with the top skin riveted on, the windshield and canopy done, I tried
to install the completed panel. Some of the mounting holes are off by half
a hole. I assume the top skin, in the process of riveting, changed the geometry
of the panel opening.
The fix will be replacing the nut plates with floaters and opening the holes a
bit but what a pain. In retrospect I'd put floaters there in the first place.
Something to think about if you have not done yours yet.
Steve Struyk
RV-8, N842S
St. Charles, MO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Problem with instrument panel fit |
Steve, The instrument panel or a mock up out of plywood should be in place
as you rivet the top skin down.
Tom in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Problem with instrument panel fit
>
> Anybody have this problem?
>
> I finished my panel months ago and trial fit it several times with the top
> skin clecoed on. Everything fit and all holes around the perimeter of the
> panel lined up. Now with the top skin riveted on, the windshield and
> canopy done, I tried to install the completed panel. Some of the mounting
> holes are off by half a hole. I assume the top skin, in the process of
> riveting, changed the geometry of the panel opening.
>
> The fix will be replacing the nut plates with floaters and opening the
> holes a bit but what a pain. In retrospect I'd put floaters there in the
> first place. Something to think about if you have not done yours yet.
>
> Steve Struyk
> RV-8, N842S
> St. Charles, MO
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | lubricating rod end bearings |
I've been looking over Randy Pflanzer's annual inspection checklist for
vansairforce.net and I see he specifies lubrication of all the rod end
bearings on the elevator, rudder, and ailerons.
First, I didn't know that these bearings need periodic lubrication, and now
assuming they do, what is everyone using for lubrication?
Thanks,
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: lubricating rod end bearings |
LPS2 works well, in a spray can ala WD40, available at any hardware store.
Jeff Point
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV 6A Wings and main landing gear on E-Bay |
| From: | "Zeidman, Richard B" <richard.b.zeidman(at)boeing.com> |
RV Listers,
Just a reminder that the wings, bulkhead and main landing gear from my
RV6A that was in a forced landing accident are on auction on E-bay and
the auction ends in about 24 hours. I believe that it would be a fairly
easy repair due to the pre-puched skins that were used in the original
construction.The reserve price of $500 has been met, but I think the
fuel tanks alone are worth that much. I've decided to rebuild with an
RV7 so not too much would fit. If you have any questions, I can be
reached at 610-591-8747 (W) or 610-358-1727.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=45601
88651&category=63679&sspagename=WDVW
Thanks for looking!
Rich Zeidman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "flynlow" <flynlow(at)usaviator.net> |
| Subject: | RV 6A Wings and main landing gear on E-Bay |
Hey Rich;
Your link does not work. I copied both lines into my brouser and got there.
Good luck with the sale.
Bud Silvers
I have wings... RV8
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Zeidman, Richard
B
Subject: RV-List: RV 6A Wings and main landing gear on E-Bay
RV Listers,
Just a reminder that the wings, bulkhead and main landing gear from my
RV6A that was in a forced landing accident are on auction on E-bay and
the auction ends in about 24 hours. I believe that it would be a fairly
easy repair due to the pre-puched skins that were used in the original
construction.The reserve price of $500 has been met, but I think the
fuel tanks alone are worth that much. I've decided to rebuild with an
RV7 so not too much would fit. If you have any questions, I can be
reached at 610-591-8747 (W) or 610-358-1727.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=45601
88651&category=63679&sspagename=WDVW
Thanks for looking!
Rich Zeidman
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Spin-on oil filters |
In a message dated 7/8/05 8:55:47 AM Pacific Daylight Time, rhdudley(at)att.net
writes:
> After two oil changes on a new O-320-D1A, I still don't have a good way
> to control the oil that runs out of the spin-on filter as I remove it. I
> have tried packing paper towels under the filter edge and the suggestion
> from Lycoming of putting a plastic bag over the filter. The result has,
> so far, been an unsatisfactory mess that requires soaking up the run
> down with paper towels.
>
> I found a wide mouth plastic jar about 4 inches wide and about the
> same tall that sits neatly under the oil filter on the bottom ledge of
> the firewall cutout (if you have a CS prop control sticking in there you will
> have to modify this idea). I then use a long punch that I have sharpened to
> a fine point to punch a 1/8 hole in the top rear of the filter right at the
> point where it rolls over to the bottom of the can. Then rotate the filter
> 1/2 turn and punch a smaller hole at the same place. Stand back an watch the
> filter drain neatly into the jar. I usually let mine sit overnight just to
> eliminate any dripping when I unscrew the filter all the way.
I use an old paring knife that I keep sharp to cut the paper away from the
end plates.
Works OK but is still messy job.
Hope this helps,
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 106 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Blasphemy or what? |
On 10 Jul 2005, at 14:17, Jerry Springer wrote:
>
> Kevin Horton wrote:
>
>
>>
>> But, pulled rivets aren't as strong as solid rivets (unless you use
>> the expensive CherryMax rivets, which have fatigue life issues). So,
>> either need to decrease the rivet pitch (which won't work if you have
>> a pre-punched kit), or up the size to 1/8 inch (if that gives
>> equivalent strength to 3/32 solid rivets).
>>
>> And this would only work if you knew that you would never want to
>> sell the aircraft. You would have a very hard time selling an RV
>> with a substantial number of pulled or round headed rivets.
>>
>> Kevin Horton
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
> And you base that on what Kevin? BTW most of the aircraft that use
> pulled rivits do use 1/8"
> In the early 1970's I built an all metal aircraft called a Mini
> Coupe it
> used all steel cadium plated 1/8"
> pop rivets. I had an engine failure with the VW engine that was in it
> and ended up upside down in
> a field. Tore metal everywhere but not one rivet pulled loose. I
> rebuilt
> it and it was still flying up
> to about 5 years ago when the current owner made a hard landng with
> it.
> I know that the person
> I know that had an RV-3 with "round head rivits" did not have a
> problem
> selling it at all.
>
> Jerry
Jerry,
Bill Marvel did some interesting testing on the strength of joints
riveted with AN426 and AN470 rivets. His data showed that the joints
riveted with the AN470 round head rivets were only about 82% as
strong as joints riveted with AN426 flush head rivets. I archived
his description of the test and the results at:
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8/rvlinks/marvelrivets.html
The following reference suggests that the strength of blind rivets vs
solid rivets depends significantly on where the mandrel breaks (and
by inference, whether the mandrel is locked in place).
http://www.roymech.co.uk/Useful_Tables/Rivets.html
If the mandrel is designed to go all the way through the rivet, and
be retained in place (like the expensive high-strength rivets from
Cherry), then you may achieve a higher strength than with solid
rivets. If the mandrel doesn not plug the hole, or if it is not
locked in place, then the blind riveted joint would be weaker. So,
if you use high-strength Cherry rivets, you may end up with a
stronger structure. But, no one would use the expensive Cherry
rivets everywhere, due to cost. And, there have been problems with
poor fatigue life on some high strength Cherry rivets. I recall a
helicopter crash many years ago that was attributed to a repair that
failed due to poor fatigue life of Cherry rivets.
If the aircraft was designed for blind rivets, then I have no
concerns. But, if you just substitute blind rivets you now have a
very different structure than the designer assumed. You have no idea
what loads the structure can support. The designers calculated
strength, static load tests and service history are no longer
relevant. You would have an aircraft that looked like an RV, but no
one would know what loads the structure could support. I would
expect that knowledgeable buyers would rather have an aircraft that
was built the way Van intended.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Spin-on oil filters |
Thanks to all who replied. I like and will try several of the suggestions.
Best regards,
Richard Dudley
oliver h washburn wrote:
>
>Also if you don't have a lot of room do every you said except use a doggie
>bag or zip lock over the filter and let the oil drain into that.Works for
>me.
> Ollie Washburn Central FL.
>
>
>
>
>>[Original Message]
>>From: linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com>
>>To:
>>Date: 7/8/2005 1:08:58 PM
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Spin-on oil filters
>>
>>
>>Haven't seen this suggestion yet: For the horiaontl flters, take a nail
>>and punch a hole in the 'top' of the can near the bottom. Place milk
>>bottle/cut oil bottle/jar etc. underneath the filter to catch the oil
>>from the hole you just punched. Unscrew the filter 1/2 turn and punch
>>another hole in the 'top'. This will take care of most of the oil
>>captured in the filter and let it drain into the engine or your catch
>>can. Placing a baggie over the filter when you get ready to remove it
>>helps too.
>>Linn
>>
>>
>>Alex Peterson wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>
>
>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>>Hi Listers,
>>>>
>>>>After two oil changes on a new O-320-D1A, I still don't have a good way
>>>>to control the oil that runs out of the spin-on filter as I remove it. I
>>>>have tried packing paper towels under the filter edge and the suggestion
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>from Lycoming of putting a plastic bag over the filter. The result has,
>>>
>>>
>>>>so far, been an unsatisfactory mess that requires soaking up the run
>>>>down with paper towels.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>Richard, I cut the bottom 2" or so from a gallon milk jug. It needs to
>>>
>>>
>be
>
>
>>>the relatively flexible type, and I stuff it under the filter until the
>>>forward edge comes up higher than the lower front of the filter. I also
>>>punch a hole in the filter at the top. The sequence is important - I
>>>
>>>
>drain
>
>
>>>the sump and punch this hole when the engine is hot. I go home and come
>>>back the next day to remove the filter when it is cold, and this makes
>>>
>>>
>it a
>
>
>>>LOT easier to avoid slopping oil. I then either stuff paper towels in
>>>
>>>
>the
>
>
>>>milk carton to absorb the oil or suck it out with something like a
>>>
>>>
>basting
>
>
>>>bulb.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>The second problem is in removing the filter medium from the core of the
>>>>filter after cutting the end off with an Air Wolf filter cutter. I've
>>>>tried scissors, hacksaw and sheet metal shears. All are arduous and only
>>>>semi satisfactory.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>Single edge razor blades.
>>>
>>>Alex Peterson
>>>RV6A N66AP 635 hours
>>>Maple Grove, MN
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Martin Hone" <mctrader(at)bigpond.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: lubricating rod end bearings |
Hi Andy,
I lubricate the rod end bearings annually, using one of the motorcycle chain
lubes, as the lube comes out very thin and gets into the bearing before
setting up as a semi solid. The is a range of this stuff, using teflon or
moly-disulphide (?) available from bike shops. One I use is Maxima Chain
Wax. In areas where dust is likely to be more of an issue, I use a
teflon-based spray lube so that dust doesn't adhere to the bearing and work
its way inside. I lube the external aileron and flap bearings every few
months this way.
FWIW..
Martin in Oz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Birkelbach <phil(at)petrasoft.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV 7 Access Panel |
Just to play a little Devil's advocate. Remember that all the skins
on this bird carry some load. Consider the plate that you use for
the recess as a doubler. It needs to carry the load of all the metal
that you remove for the access cover. I'd go with a thicker piece of
metal, maybe 0.040 or even 0.062 as the recess plate. And don't
spare the rivets and screws.
Just some thoughts I'm not trying to stir anything up.
Phil
On Jul 7, 2005, at 15:44, Stan Jones wrote:
>
> On my RV 7 Slider I am looking to get better access to some of the
> four
> module I need to install
> under the front deck. AFS Analog module, Lightspeed, etc.
> I am considering building an access panel in the front deck, over
> the 7108A
> centre rib, between
> the F7107 L and R, about 16 inches wide by 10 inches deep
> I would recess the panel, secure it with flush screws and
> nutplates, and add
> a bit of RTV to
> keep the weather out.
> Has anyone tried this before, and how did they go about it ? A
> picture can
> replace
> a thousand words.
> Stan Jones.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson(at)consolidated.net> |
RV gang....
If you are going to Oshkosh, you may want to consider a stop at our
little small town airport.
3LF http://www.litchfieldil.com/airport/
take a look at the photography, the young eagle links, the pilot info
and then.......... stop over here for a night.
Gas is guaranteed at $2.85 a gallon (self service, like at the car gas
stations). We have a courtesy car ( old chevy, not pretty. but runs
good) No, the gas price is not very good, but it is the best we can do
and it will be this price on return trip also. We are about 340 or 350
miles straight south of Oshkosh..
On field camping, and motels within 1 mile walk. restarants, bars, Free
overnighting and Admin. bulding will be
Kept open for rest rooms and what ever. Sleep in there if you want......
Pass this information around to the other Matronics lists if you dont mind.
Bring your tie downs and ropes that you will need in Oshkosh just in
case we would have more than eight planes here. There is plenty of grass
for yie downs.......
Also Chapter 61, Acro contest will be going on that weekend at Salem
Illinois.(about 45 miles southeast) Feel free to stop in there for some
great competition and partying....
Phil RV6 flown and tore down now for painting............
Sure wish I had a Pitt's to Fly..........
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Spin-on oil filters |
I like to use a disposable baby diaper under the oil filter when you change
it. They can soak up an enormous amount of oil.
Pat Long
PGLong(at)aol.com
N120PL
RV4
Bay City, Michigan
3CM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: lubricating rod end bearings |
We use Corrosion X, It deals with potential corrosion and lubricates.
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: lubricating rod end bearings |
What is a brand name for a good teflon based spray lube that doesn't attarct
dust.
Here in Colorado and the southwestern US, dust is more of an issue than
corrosion.
Andy
>
>
> Hi Andy,
>
> I lubricate the rod end bearings annually, using one of the motorcycle
> chain
> lubes, as the lube comes out very thin and gets into the bearing before
> setting up as a semi solid. The is a range of this stuff, using teflon or
> moly-disulphide (?) available from bike shops. One I use is Maxima Chain
> Wax. In areas where dust is likely to be more of an issue, I use a
> teflon-based spray lube so that dust doesn't adhere to the bearing and
> work
> its way inside. I lube the external aileron and flap bearings every few
> months this way.
> FWIW..
>
> Martin in Oz
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: lubricating rod end bearings |
Andy,
A Teflon spray product that I like is ZEP 45 NC made by Zep Mfg Atlanta GA.
The carrier in the product seems to evaporate cleanly. The Teflon itself
does not hold or attrach the dust. I would also suggest a moly sulfide type
product in a clean evaporating carrier. Some of the lock lubricants are of
this type. The moly sulfide tends to burnish in to the metal surface leaving
a longer lasting lube than teflon. Note: Many of the lock lubes contain
graphite which would not be my first choice.
Dale Ensing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn(at)cox.net> |
"RV-List Digest List"
0.01 URI_REDIRECTOR Message has HTTP redirector URI
Here are a couple of links to the tragic airshow accident that killed two people
we have all probably seen at one time or another, Bobby Younkin and Jimmy Franklin.
The first one is a video clip. Oshkosh will have a void this year for
sure. Our thoughts to their families.
http://sympaticomsn.ctv.ca/servlet/ArticleNews/story/CTVNews/1121081970546_153?hubtopstories
http://www.canada.com/nanaimo/story.html?id59942bd2-7182-465d-8f18-40dcd7798baf
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Suffoletto" <rsuffoletto(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Removing cowl hinges after they have been glassed & riveted in |
If one wanted to do away with the top and bottom cowl hinges and switch to
screws / camlocs what would be the best way to remove the hinge from the
cowl? Do you just cut off the eyes on the cowl side and drill through the
hinge body or is there a way to remove the hinges after they have been
glassed in? Seems that a lot of damage could be done to the cowl trying to
get the hinges off after they have been glassed and riveted.
I have read where other have switched to screws and camlocs. i'd be
interested to know how they dealt with the hinge on the cowl.
Thanks
Richard
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | RV ride needed in Washington DC/Baltimore area |
MessageIs there anybody in the Washington DC or Baltimore area who can give
a prospective RV builder a ride? If so, please contact Jeff Stanton at
jstanton(at)arinc.com.
Thanks!
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hull, Don" <Donald.C.Hull(at)nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | RV 7 Access Panel |
I had the same thoughts, Phil. Has anyone ever asked Van's about this mod?
I think I remember a few years ago, someone asked Van about cutting an
access door in the side for access to the baggage compartment, and he wasn't
too keen on it, to put it mildly. Of course, this was a hinged affair which
wouldn't carry the load like a thicker skin with rivets and screws would be.
If memory serves me correctly, someone has made this
baggage-door-in-the-side mod. I'm not interested in that mod because of the
monocoque design of the fuselage. But the access panels in the top front
fuselage, because of their small size and because they would be secured with
plenty of rivets and screws, seem like a reasonable modification.
Oh me, are we stirring up another primer war???
Don
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phil Birkelbach
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV 7 Access Panel
Just to play a little Devil's advocate. Remember that all the skins
on this bird carry some load. Consider the plate that you use for
the recess as a doubler. It needs to carry the load of all the metal
that you remove for the access cover. I'd go with a thicker piece of
metal, maybe 0.040 or even 0.062 as the recess plate. And don't
spare the rivets and screws.
Just some thoughts I'm not trying to stir anything up.
Phil
On Jul 7, 2005, at 15:44, Stan Jones wrote:
>
> On my RV 7 Slider I am looking to get better access to some of the
> four
> module I need to install
> under the front deck. AFS Analog module, Lightspeed, etc.
> I am considering building an access panel in the front deck, over
> the 7108A
> centre rib, between
> the F7107 L and R, about 16 inches wide by 10 inches deep
> I would recess the panel, secure it with flush screws and
> nutplates, and add
> a bit of RTV to
> keep the weather out.
> Has anyone tried this before, and how did they go about it ? A
> picture can
> replace
> a thousand words.
> Stan Jones.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Experimental midair over Delaware Bay on Sunday |
Listers,
Does anyone have any information about a midair between two experimental
planes in a formation of six?
An item in the Orlando Sentinel today said they took off from Sussex
County Airport in Georgetown.
Richard Dudley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Danielson" <johnd(at)wlcwyo.com> |
| Subject: | Spin-on oil filters |
That's a great idea, Thanks
John L. Danielson
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of PGLong(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Spin-on oil filters
I like to use a disposable baby diaper under the oil filter when you
change
it. They can soak up an enormous amount of oil.
Pat Long
PGLong(at)aol.com
N120PL
RV4
Bay City, Michigan
3CM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sportav8r(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Experimental midair over Delaware Bay on Sunday |
It's being somberly discussed on the Yahoo OVRV and MidAtlantic RV group lists
today. Read about it here:
http://www.baltimoresun.com/news/nationworld/bal-te.planes11jul11,1,4534928.story?coll=bal-nationworld-headlines
A very sad day. The families are in our prayers.
-Stormy
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net>
Subject: RV-List: Experimental midair over Delaware Bay on Sunday
Listers,
Does anyone have any information about a midair between two experimental
planes in a formation of six?
An item in the Orlando Sentinel today said they took off from Sussex
County Airport in Georgetown.
Richard Dudley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <paul(at)kitlog.com> |
| Subject: | Removing cowl hinges after they have been glassed & riveted |
in
Assuming you used glass and rivets, I would grind off the shop heads so you
have more room for your camlocs/nutplates. Then cut off the eyelets. You
would then be able to put an extension piece of stock on one half of the
cowl to accept the camlocs/nuplates.
I don't know if I would try to remove the bar stock from the hinges if they
are well glassed in. I drilled holes in mine so resin could seep through
and hold them on, so I don't think it would come off too easily, even if you
removed all the rivets.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
Kitlog Builder's Software
www.kitlog.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard
Suffoletto
Subject: RV-List: Removing cowl hinges after they have been glassed &
riveted in
If one wanted to do away with the top and bottom cowl hinges and switch to
screws / camlocs what would be the best way to remove the hinge from the
cowl? Do you just cut off the eyes on the cowl side and drill through the
hinge body or is there a way to remove the hinges after they have been
glassed in? Seems that a lot of damage could be done to the cowl trying to
get the hinges off after they have been glassed and riveted.
I have read where other have switched to screws and camlocs. i'd be
interested to know how they dealt with the hinge on the cowl.
Thanks
Richard
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Experimental midair over Delaware Bay on Sunday |
On 11 Jul 2005, at 13:05, Richard Dudley wrote:
>
> Listers,
> Does anyone have any information about a midair between two
> experimental
> planes in a formation of six?
> An item in the Orlando Sentinel today said they took off from Sussex
> County Airport in Georgetown.
>
There was some info at the end of an article about the Bobby Younkin/
Jim Franklin accident, at:
http://www.fly-low.com/feat0705/annnew.html
It said: "In a related story, a six-ship formation flight, conducted
as practice for a Delaware airshow has apparently resulted in yet
another midair, bringing down two experimental-amateur built
aircraft. One pilot is now confirmed dead and has been identified as
Jay Blume, 39, of Berwyn, Pennsylvania, flying a Rutan-designed Long-
Ez. The other aircraft, a Van's RV-8, is registered to Ralph D.
Morgan of Rehoboth Beach, Delaware. His condition or involvement in
the actual accident has not yet been determined. All six aircraft
were members of a local formation flying team, known as the 'Vultures.'"
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: lubricating rod end bearings |
Linn,
No reason not to use graphite. It is just my least preferred choice. It does
not burnish into the metal surface as does the moly and as you pointed out
it is much more messy to use than teflon. If its going to be a black/gray
product moly has advantages over graphite.
Dale Ensing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vic Jacko" <vicwj(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Removing cowl hinges after they have been glassed & riveted |
in
I had a chance to see Tim Donham's RV-9 with camlocks. He used the hinge
material for backup on the seams.
Vic
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Suffoletto" <rsuffoletto(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Removing cowl hinges after they have been glassed &
riveted in
>
>
>
> If one wanted to do away with the top and bottom cowl hinges and switch to
> screws / camlocs what would be the best way to remove the hinge from the
> cowl? Do you just cut off the eyes on the cowl side and drill through the
> hinge body or is there a way to remove the hinges after they have been
> glassed in? Seems that a lot of damage could be done to the cowl trying to
> get the hinges off after they have been glassed and riveted.
>
> I have read where other have switched to screws and camlocs. i'd be
> interested to know how they dealt with the hinge on the cowl.
>
> Thanks
>
> Richard
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Oliver Washburn" <ollie6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV 7 Access Panel |
My 6a was built with 4 access panels across the top and has over 1000hrs
with no problems. I didn't build the plane, so not knowing where everything
was located they have come in handy a few times. I would SURE put them in
again
Ollie 6A Central Fl.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hull, Don" <Donald.C.Hull(at)nasa.gov>
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV 7 Access Panel
>
> I had the same thoughts, Phil. Has anyone ever asked Van's about this
> mod?
> I think I remember a few years ago, someone asked Van about cutting an
> access door in the side for access to the baggage compartment, and he
> wasn't
> too keen on it, to put it mildly. Of course, this was a hinged affair
> which
> wouldn't carry the load like a thicker skin with rivets and screws would
> be.
> If memory serves me correctly, someone has made this
> baggage-door-in-the-side mod. I'm not interested in that mod because of
> the
> monocoque design of the fuselage. But the access panels in the top front
> fuselage, because of their small size and because they would be secured
> with
> plenty of rivets and screws, seem like a reasonable modification.
> Oh me, are we stirring up another primer war???
> Don
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phil Birkelbach
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RV 7 Access Panel
>
>
> Just to play a little Devil's advocate. Remember that all the skins
> on this bird carry some load. Consider the plate that you use for
> the recess as a doubler. It needs to carry the load of all the metal
> that you remove for the access cover. I'd go with a thicker piece of
> metal, maybe 0.040 or even 0.062 as the recess plate. And don't
> spare the rivets and screws.
>
> Just some thoughts I'm not trying to stir anything up.
>
> Phil
>
> On Jul 7, 2005, at 15:44, Stan Jones wrote:
>
>>
>> On my RV 7 Slider I am looking to get better access to some of the
>> four
>> module I need to install
>> under the front deck. AFS Analog module, Lightspeed, etc.
>> I am considering building an access panel in the front deck, over
>> the 7108A
>> centre rib, between
>> the F7107 L and R, about 16 inches wide by 10 inches deep
>> I would recess the panel, secure it with flush screws and
>> nutplates, and add
>> a bit of RTV to
>> keep the weather out.
>> Has anyone tried this before, and how did they go about it ? A
>> picture can
>> replace
>> a thousand words.
>> Stan Jones.
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once |
I used the chicken-wire-on-the-box method and did prime all the tail
parts in 4 or 5 batches over the weekend.
Deburring, cleaning & etching (lacquer thinner then dishsoap then AFS
acid etch then distilled water) and priming every part did take me quite
a bit longer than I'd thought it would. With all the setup it was
pretty much two days' work.
But now it's done and the AFS primer worked nicely.
John Danielson wrote:
>
>Don't take the time to make all those hooks to hang light weight parts
>on. Go out and buy some large paper clips. They work great.
>I like the chicken wire approach best.
>The hanging parts will turn and fly around while you spray them.
>While parts can fly off the chicken wire if your not careful they do
>seem to stay in place if you do your part.
>
>John L. Danielson
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Tasker <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once |
Just a comment. I used the AFS products on my RV9A but I just used the
aluminum etch/cleaner and then the primer sealer. I did not wipe the
parts with lacquer thinner (or anything else) or wash them with anything
besides the etch/cleaner and, while my plane is not yet flying, I have
found the primer sealer to be tenacious and rugged as hell. I can
dimple the parts after priming and the paint just stays there - no chips
or cracks. I have walked all over the cockpit and baggage area while
building and working on the panel and wiring and, except for a little
dirt, the paint is good as when I first painted it.
In other words, the paint does all what they say it does and you really
don't have to do anything to the aluminum except wash with their
etch/cleaner, rinse, dry and paint with their primer sealer.
I suppose if the parts were covered with grease then lacquer thinner and
soap might be a good idea, but the aluminum really has nothing more than
finger oils, etc. on it when you are ready to wash and prime.
Dick Tasker
Paul Folbrecht wrote:
>
>I used the chicken-wire-on-the-box method and did prime all the tail
>parts in 4 or 5 batches over the weekend.
>
>Deburring, cleaning & etching (lacquer thinner then dishsoap then AFS
>acid etch then distilled water) and priming every part did take me quite
>a bit longer than I'd thought it would. With all the setup it was
>pretty much two days' work.
>
>But now it's done and the AFS primer worked nicely.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once |
I figured my cleaning system was probably a bit of overkill but I wanted
to be sure I had no problems.
Of course, I did make one mistake: I neglected to flute the HS ribs
before priming. I don't imagine the primer coat is going to stand up to
fluting too well but I could be wrong.
Richard Tasker wrote:
>
>Just a comment. I used the AFS products on my RV9A but I just used the
>aluminum etch/cleaner and then the primer sealer. I did not wipe the
>parts with lacquer thinner (or anything else) or wash them with anything
>besides the etch/cleaner and, while my plane is not yet flying, I have
>found the primer sealer to be tenacious and rugged as hell. I can
>dimple the parts after priming and the paint just stays there - no chips
>or cracks. I have walked all over the cockpit and baggage area while
>building and working on the panel and wiring and, except for a little
>dirt, the paint is good as when I first painted it.
>
>In other words, the paint does all what they say it does and you really
>don't have to do anything to the aluminum except wash with their
>etch/cleaner, rinse, dry and paint with their primer sealer.
>
>I suppose if the parts were covered with grease then lacquer thinner and
>soap might be a good idea, but the aluminum really has nothing more than
>finger oils, etc. on it when you are ready to wash and prime.
>
>Dick Tasker
>
>Paul Folbrecht wrote:
>
>
>
>>
>>I used the chicken-wire-on-the-box method and did prime all the tail
>>parts in 4 or 5 batches over the weekend.
>>
>>Deburring, cleaning & etching (lacquer thinner then dishsoap then AFS
>>acid etch then distilled water) and priming every part did take me quite
>>a bit longer than I'd thought it would. With all the setup it was
>>pretty much two days' work.
>>
>>But now it's done and the AFS primer worked nicely.
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Tasker <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once |
Given my experience with this primer, I would bet it will.
Dick Tasker
Paul Folbrecht wrote:
>
>I figured my cleaning system was probably a bit of overkill but I wanted
>to be sure I had no problems.
>
>Of course, I did make one mistake: I neglected to flute the HS ribs
>before priming. I don't imagine the primer coat is going to stand up to
>fluting too well but I could be wrong.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matt Johnson" <matt(at)n559rv.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV 7 Access Panel |
(not processed: message from valid local sender)
There is another RV here in Fresno that has this mod. It is a -6A and seems to
work well. I was considering doing the same thing on my -
7A.
- Matt
-----Original Message-----
From: "Oliver Washburn" <ollie6a(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2005 15:49:47 -0400
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV 7 Access Panel
>
>
> My 6a was built with 4 access panels across the top and has over
> 1000hrs
> with no problems. I didn't build the plane, so not knowing where
> everything
> was located they have come in handy a few times. I would SURE put them
> in
> again
> Ollie 6A Central Fl.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Hull, Don" <Donald.C.Hull(at)nasa.gov>
> To:
> Subject: RE: RV-List: RV 7 Access Panel
>
>
> >
> > I had the same thoughts, Phil. Has anyone ever asked Van's about
> this
> > mod?
> > I think I remember a few years ago, someone asked Van about cutting
> an
> > access door in the side for access to the baggage compartment, and he
> > wasn't
> > too keen on it, to put it mildly. Of course, this was a hinged
> affair
> > which
> > wouldn't carry the load like a thicker skin with rivets and screws
> would
> > be.
> > If memory serves me correctly, someone has made this
> > baggage-door-in-the-side mod. I'm not interested in that mod because
> of
> > the
> > monocoque design of the fuselage. But the access panels in the top
> front
> > fuselage, because of their small size and because they would be
> secured
> > with
> > plenty of rivets and screws, seem like a reasonable modification.
> > Oh me, are we stirring up another primer war???
> > Don
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phil
> Birkelbach
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: RV 7 Access Panel
> >
> >
> >
> > Just to play a little Devil's advocate. Remember that all the skins
> > on this bird carry some load. Consider the plate that you use for
> > the recess as a doubler. It needs to carry the load of all the metal
> > that you remove for the access cover. I'd go with a thicker piece of
> > metal, maybe 0.040 or even 0.062 as the recess plate. And don't
> > spare the rivets and screws.
> >
> > Just some thoughts I'm not trying to stir anything up.
> >
> > Phil
> >
> > On Jul 7, 2005, at 15:44, Stan Jones wrote:
> >
> >>
> >> On my RV 7 Slider I am looking to get better access to some of the
> >> four
> >> module I need to install
> >> under the front deck. AFS Analog module, Lightspeed, etc.
> >> I am considering building an access panel in the front deck, over
> >> the 7108A
> >> centre rib, between
> >> the F7107 L and R, about 16 inches wide by 10 inches deep
> >> I would recess the panel, secure it with flush screws and
> >> nutplates, and add
> >> a bit of RTV to
> >> keep the weather out.
> >> Has anyone tried this before, and how did they go about it ? A
> >> picture can
> >> replace
> >> a thousand words.
> >> Stan Jones.
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Martin Hone" <mctrader(at)bigpond.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: lubricating rod end bearings |
Andy,
The products I have been using include - Slick 50 Teflon spray, Wurth "Bike
Line' Dry lubricant with Teflon, and Maxima Chain wax (available from
Motorcycle shops - this dries into a waxy surface that won't attract dust)
I am sure there are plenty more out there.
Cheers
Martin in Oz
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kitlog Pro v2.0 Answers |
Paul,
I changed to the latest version and downloaded 2.0. Received an error
message. I reported the message and was asked for my version of Windows. It is
Windows ME. Is this not compatible with 2.0?
Thanks,
Paul LeDoux
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Glueing windscreen. |
You folks who are gluing on your canopies, can you tell me where you're
getting your Sikaflex in small tube lots? I called the U.S. distributor of
the stuff and they pointed me to a contractor in Tampa (Florida) but he only
carries one type. If I want the 252 or 255 adhesive I'd have to buy a whole
case of the stuff. At this point I've already drilled the sliding portion
for mechanical fastening but am considering gluing the base of the
windscreen to the forward top skin. Seems like an easier and less messy way
to attach the windscreen there (as opposed to the layers of fiber-glassing
and filling and sanding). Any thoughts on this idea and where I might get a
couple tubes of the Sikaflex? Thanks.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Getting soooooo close
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once |
The web site for Aircraft Finishing Systems is
http://www.aircraftfinishing.com/
It is a little hard to navigate but it is all there - information,
prices, testimonials, colors, etc., etc.
I have no connection with them (except that I am a satisfied user).
Dick Tasker
Jerry Grimmonpre wrote:
>
>Many thanks to Dick Tasker for comments about AFS primer ...
>
>Is there a link or address for AFS stuff? I'm nearing the build stage with
>shop about complete.
>With regards ... thanks,
>
>Jerry Grimmonpre
>7A
>
----
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that a significant number of electrons may have been temporarily inconvenienced.
----
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Hall" <dhall(at)donka.net> |
| Subject: | Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once |
I did my tail in 3 primer sessions, weeks apart as stuff ready for final
riveting piled up on the shelves. Along the way, I considered the
do-it-all-at-once approach. One knock on that approach is for those who do
the full alumaprep-scrub-alodine-prime cycle - that's a lot of freaking
scrubbing! As we say down south, you will be slap-wo-out. I can guarantee
you that by the end of that day, you'll be wondering if smaller batches is
better. Another advantage for mere mortals with smaller batches is that it
is easier to unravel mysteries in forgetting to re-label part numbers.
Don't ask me how I know...
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Folbrecht
Subject: RV-List: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once
I would like to prime all my empennege parts in one session (shooting AFS
primer) for efficiency. Planning on doing this on Sat. Been thinking about
various ways to hang/set the parts to dry.. compliction is that some parts
can be easily hung from a wire and some can't. Would welcome any ideas from
those that have done this. I have plenty of space.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert.v(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Glueing windscreen. |
Hi Dean
Most places I called would only sell a case of 12 10-ounce tubes of the
295UV, ......Jamestown Distributors @ 800-423-0030 will sell you
individually, pricing: about 12 for a tube of 295UV black or white, 31
for a pint of 209 and 11 for a pint of 226. So, that's what I ordered,
tube o' black&white, 226 and 209. One could say I am now committed ;-)
DEAN PSIROPOULOS wrote:
>
>You folks who are gluing on your canopies, can you tell me where you're
>getting your Sikaflex in small tube lots? I called the U.S. distributor of
>the stuff and they pointed me to a contractor in Tampa (Florida) but he only
>carries one type. If I want the 252 or 255 adhesive I'd have to buy a whole
>case of the stuff. At this point I've already drilled the sliding portion
>for mechanical fastening but am considering gluing the base of the
>windscreen to the forward top skin. Seems like an easier and less messy way
>to attach the windscreen there (as opposed to the layers of fiber-glassing
>and filling and sanding). Any thoughts on this idea and where I might get a
>couple tubes of the Sikaflex? Thanks.
>
>Dean Psiropoulos
>RV-6A N197DM
>Getting soooooo close
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: Glueing windscreen. |
Hi Dean,
I got mine at Jamestown Distributors:
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/
I'm not sure if using glue will eliminate the need for fiberglass
and sanding, but I have not yet done my windscreen.
Mickey
DEAN PSIROPOULOS wrote:
>
> You folks who are gluing on your canopies, can you tell me where you're
> getting your Sikaflex in small tube lots? I called the U.S. distributor of
> the stuff and they pointed me to a contractor in Tampa (Florida) but he only
> carries one type. If I want the 252 or 255 adhesive I'd have to buy a whole
> case of the stuff. At this point I've already drilled the sliding portion
> for mechanical fastening but am considering gluing the base of the
> windscreen to the forward top skin. Seems like an easier and less messy way
> to attach the windscreen there (as opposed to the layers of fiber-glassing
> and filling and sanding). Any thoughts on this idea and where I might get a
> couple tubes of the Sikaflex? Thanks.
>
> Dean Psiropoulos
> RV-6A N197DM
> Getting soooooo close
>
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Glueing windscreen. |
Hi Mickey,
Could you tell me how much material it takes to glue on the canopy? I am
seriously considering this for my RV-8. I really enjoy your site.
Paul
Peachtree Cit, Ga.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KIMSEYCO(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | narco nav122 for sale |
if their is anyone who is looking for a vor-ils-marker becon reciver just
back from repair at narco let me know before i put it on e-bay. value $2000 plus.
tom kimsey kimseyco(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: Glueing windscreen. |
Hi Paul,
Thanks! I used two tubes for the canopy, but I really used at
least double what I should have. If I did another canopy, I
could easily do it with only one tube. That said, the glue
is not very expensive, so it's best to buy a bit more than
you think you will need.
I'm getting close to installing the skirts. I'll use a
combination of rivets and glue here, but probably scotchweld
DB-125, since there will not be a big gap between the skirt
and the canopy. The Sikaflex requires a decent gap.
Best regards,
Mickey
PSILeD(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Hi Mickey,
>
> Could you tell me how much material it takes to glue on the canopy? I am
> seriously considering this for my RV-8. I really enjoy your site.
> Paul
> Peachtree Cit, Ga.
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Glueing windscreen. |
| From: | James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com> |
Dean,
I'm told that it is a marine product so I would go in that
direction. I want to glue my canopy on also. A vendor for this product
would be great. I wonder if it has a "do not use after" date.
Jim Nelson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: Glueing windscreen. |
> I'm told that it is a marine product so I would go in that
> direction. I want to glue my canopy on also. A vendor for this product
> would be great. I wonder if it has a "do not use after" date.
Yes, it does. If I recall correctly, it was about 6 months after
I purchased it. I can check to get more details if you like.
You can buy it here: http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glen Matejcek <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | lubricating rod end bearings |
Hi Linn-
>Why not use graphite???
Unfortunately, it eats aluminum..... be carefull where it drip / splatters
gm
Glen Matejcek
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Tasker <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Glueing windscreen. |
I am not sure exactly how much it takes in total, but I have used one
tube to glue the main canopy (slider) to the framework. I need to add a
little to it to smooth out the fillets and glue it to the side
sections. Also have to do the entire windshield. I would estimate
three tubes (I bought four tubes). Actually, the sealer is not the
stuff that is expensive anyway. The cleaner and primer is what is
expensive.
Dick Tasker
PSILeD(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>Hi Mickey,
>
>Could you tell me how much material it takes to glue on the canopy? I am
>seriously considering this for my RV-8. I really enjoy your site.
>Paul
>Peachtree Cit, Ga.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Removing cowl hinges after they have been glassed & riveted |
in
I just drilled out the rivets and gave the glass a good pull. Its hard to
get a great bond so the glass came off pretty easily in most spots. I
filled the holes with resin.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
200 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Suffoletto" <rsuffoletto(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Removing cowl hinges after they have been glassed &
riveted in
>
>
>
> If one wanted to do away with the top and bottom cowl hinges and switch to
> screws / camlocs what would be the best way to remove the hinge from the
> cowl? Do you just cut off the eyes on the cowl side and drill through the
> hinge body or is there a way to remove the hinges after they have been
> glassed in? Seems that a lot of damage could be done to the cowl trying to
> get the hinges off after they have been glassed and riveted.
>
> I have read where other have switched to screws and camlocs. i'd be
> interested to know how they dealt with the hinge on the cowl.
>
> Thanks
>
> Richard
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: lubricating rod end bearingsQC |
The story of the circled dent eventually becoming a hole is a bit far-
fetched, but there is some science behind corrosion concerns if you
get graphite on aluminum, and there is some moisture present.
If two different materials are in contact, and there is an
electrolyte (electrically conductive liquid) they create what is
effectively a tiny battery, and the current flowing can cause
corrosion. The voltage of the "battery", and the potential for
corrosion, is determined by how far apart the two materials are in
the "galvanic series". If you look at tables showing the galvanic
series, you will find aluminum near one end, and graphite near the
other. In this case it is the aluminum that will corrode.
General info:
http://www.corrosionsource.com/handbook/CPS/cps_a_glc.htm
http://www.corrosion-doctors.org/Aircraft/galvdefi.htm
Galvanic series:
http://www.mcnallyinstitute.com/Charts/galvanic-series.html
http://www.corrosionsource.com/handbook/galv_series.htm
Kevin Horton
On 12 Jul 2005, at 14:43, JOHN STARN wrote:
>
> This thread begs the question. What then do we use to mark rivets
> lines,
> rivet & nut plate locations, cut off points if not a pencil ?
> OH......that's right the newbies have all those pre-punched holes
> to guide
> them but there still must be a few things that must be measured and
> "marked". 8*) Cleaveland Aircraft Tool's sell and includes
> "Sharpie" fine
> point permanent markers in their RV packages. This sounds a lot
> like a good
> ole "urban legend". KABONG HRII N561FS (GBA & GWB)
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7(at)b4.ca>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: lubricating rod end bearingsQC
>
>
>>
>> On 8:58:22 2005-07-12 linn walters wrote:
>>
>>> Glen, you're right. I recall an incident where a QC person used a
>>> pencil to circle a small dent on a Cessna. Years later the 'circle'
>>> fell out when bumped. Thanks for the reminder!!!
>>>
>>
>> Well, it *did* get rid of the dent... :P
>>
>> -Rob
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once |
| From: | Doug Weiler <dcw(at)mnwing.org> |
Hi guys:
As much as I hate to enter into the priming, fray I have to insert my two
cents worth.
Make it easy on yourself. The MN Wing has used this method on probably a
dozen airplanes and it is simple and bullet proof.
1. Clean bare aluminum with Dupont 3812S reducer.
2. ScotchBrite with the purple Scothbrite pads
3. Clean again with Dupont 3812S.
4. Spray with NAPA 7220 self-etching primer in spray cans. Get it at any
NAPA store.
5. It dries in 3 minutes. You are done.
After about a week this primer gets very hard. I have top coated it with
PPG acrylic urethane, Imron, and Aluma Grip and have done pull tests. It is
great. Unless you are planning to base your airplane in Hawaii with it
being drizzled on by salt air, this works great!
Doug Weiler
Pres, MN Wing
On 7/12/05 12:27 AM, "Don Hall" wrote:
>
> I did my tail in 3 primer sessions, weeks apart as stuff ready for final
> riveting piled up on the shelves. Along the way, I considered the
> do-it-all-at-once approach. One knock on that approach is for those who do
> the full alumaprep-scrub-alodine-prime cycle - that's a lot of freaking
> scrubbing! As we say down south, you will be slap-wo-out. I can guarantee
> you that by the end of that day, you'll be wondering if smaller batches is
> better. Another advantage for mere mortals with smaller batches is that it
> is easier to unravel mysteries in forgetting to re-label part numbers.
> Don't ask me how I know...
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Folbrecht
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once
>
>
> I would like to prime all my empennege parts in one session (shooting AFS
> primer) for efficiency. Planning on doing this on Sat. Been thinking about
> various ways to hang/set the parts to dry.. compliction is that some parts
> can be easily hung from a wire and some can't. Would welcome any ideas from
> those that have done this. I have plenty of space.
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "c.ennis" <c.ennis(at)insightbb.com> |
My 6A has a tach fromVan's instrument line, 21/4" electric. Carb heat drop
at 1700 rpm is only 25 to 50 rpm. using Van's catalog componants.
Charlie Ennis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: lubricating rod end bearingsQC |
Being an old plumber type I've had lots of experience in dis-similar metals
being installed by "others". Copper & galvanized pipe mixed only take a few
months to show up and a few years to fail. The amount of graphite in a
pencil line covered then with paint/primer does not sound like a great
danger. Thanks Kevin, will read up more on the subject. Ya'll haven't been
by APV in a while, we still got a "warm" one for ya. JACK
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Horton" <khorton01(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: lubricating rod end bearingsQC
>
> The story of the circled dent eventually becoming a hole is a bit far-
> fetched, but there is some science behind corrosion concerns if you
> get graphite on aluminum, and there is some moisture present.
>
> If two different materials are in contact, and there is an
> electrolyte (electrically conductive liquid) they create what is
> effectively a tiny battery, and the current flowing can cause
> corrosion. The voltage of the "battery", and the potential for
> corrosion, is determined by how far apart the two materials are in
> the "galvanic series". If you look at tables showing the galvanic
> series, you will find aluminum near one end, and graphite near the
> other. In this case it is the aluminum that will corrode.
>
> General info:
> http://www.corrosionsource.com/handbook/CPS/cps_a_glc.htm
> http://www.corrosion-doctors.org/Aircraft/galvdefi.htm
>
> Galvanic series:
> http://www.mcnallyinstitute.com/Charts/galvanic-series.html
> http://www.corrosionsource.com/handbook/galv_series.htm
>
> Kevin Horton
>
> On 12 Jul 2005, at 14:43, JOHN STARN wrote:
>
>>
>> This thread begs the question. What then do we use to mark rivets
>> lines,
>> rivet & nut plate locations, cut off points if not a pencil ?
>> OH......that's right the newbies have all those pre-punched holes
>> to guide
>> them but there still must be a few things that must be measured and
>> "marked". 8*) Cleaveland Aircraft Tool's sell and includes
>> "Sharpie" fine
>> point permanent markers in their RV packages. This sounds a lot
>> like a good
>> ole "urban legend". KABONG HRII N561FS (GBA & GWB)
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7(at)b4.ca>
>> To:
>> Subject: Re: RV-List: lubricating rod end bearingsQC
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Danielson" <johnd(at)wlcwyo.com> |
| Subject: | Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once |
I agree with Doug,
I used Naptha with scotchbrite pad to clean before spraying.
Then I used Marhyde self etching primer in the large spray cans. These
are expensive. I will probably use the NAPA 7220 primer as Doug
suggested on my Harmon Rocket.
John L. Danielson
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doug Weiler
Subject: Re: RV-List: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at
once
Hi guys:
As much as I hate to enter into the priming, fray I have to insert my
two
cents worth.
Make it easy on yourself. The MN Wing has used this method on probably
a
dozen airplanes and it is simple and bullet proof.
1. Clean bare aluminum with Dupont 3812S reducer.
2. ScotchBrite with the purple Scothbrite pads
3. Clean again with Dupont 3812S.
4. Spray with NAPA 7220 self-etching primer in spray cans. Get it at
any
NAPA store.
5. It dries in 3 minutes. You are done.
After about a week this primer gets very hard. I have top coated it
with
PPG acrylic urethane, Imron, and Aluma Grip and have done pull tests.
It is
great. Unless you are planning to base your airplane in Hawaii with it
being drizzled on by salt air, this works great!
Doug Weiler
Pres, MN Wing
On 7/12/05 12:27 AM, "Don Hall" wrote:
>
> I did my tail in 3 primer sessions, weeks apart as stuff ready for
final
> riveting piled up on the shelves. Along the way, I considered the
> do-it-all-at-once approach. One knock on that approach is for those
who do
> the full alumaprep-scrub-alodine-prime cycle - that's a lot of
freaking
> scrubbing! As we say down south, you will be slap-wo-out. I can
guarantee
> you that by the end of that day, you'll be wondering if smaller
batches is
> better. Another advantage for mere mortals with smaller batches is
that it
> is easier to unravel mysteries in forgetting to re-label part numbers.
> Don't ask me how I know...
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul
Folbrecht
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at
once
>
>
> I would like to prime all my empennege parts in one session (shooting
AFS
> primer) for efficiency. Planning on doing this on Sat. Been thinking
about
> various ways to hang/set the parts to dry.. compliction is that some
parts
> can be easily hung from a wire and some can't. Would welcome any
ideas from
> those that have done this. I have plenty of space.
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Tasker <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once |
I don't disagree with your method as far as ease and durability.
However, for those who would rather use more environmentally friendly
stuff, the AFS products are that. And they are not hard to use.
Dick
Doug Weiler wrote:
>
>Hi guys:
>
>As much as I hate to enter into the priming, fray I have to insert my two
>cents worth.
>
>Make it easy on yourself. The MN Wing has used this method on probably a
>dozen airplanes and it is simple and bullet proof.
>
>1. Clean bare aluminum with Dupont 3812S reducer.
>2. ScotchBrite with the purple Scothbrite pads
>3. Clean again with Dupont 3812S.
>4. Spray with NAPA 7220 self-etching primer in spray cans. Get it at any
>NAPA store.
>5. It dries in 3 minutes. You are done.
>
>After about a week this primer gets very hard. I have top coated it with
>PPG acrylic urethane, Imron, and Aluma Grip and have done pull tests. It is
>great. Unless you are planning to base your airplane in Hawaii with it
>being drizzled on by salt air, this works great!
>
>Doug Weiler
>Pres, MN Wing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 07/12/2005 3:05:10 PM Central Standard Time,
bertrv6(at)highstream.net writes:
I cannot see any drop on RPM. on the Enigne monitor I have, is
a GRAND RAPID E.I.S. UNIT.
>
Hi Bert-
On the EIS in my -6A with 150hp Lyc & Vans airbox, I'll pull carb heat at
runup and will typically see at least 20-30 degree drop after 5 or 6 seconds,
then open it back up. Is your door fully closing in both directions? What carb
heat muff are you using?
Mark Phillips
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greg Grigson <iflyhawaii2(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: acoustical and thremal insuluation |
So... any suggestions on good adhesives or attachment
methods for the black foam soundproofing. What are
your thoughts on 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive aka
"Camel Snot"?
Greg in Honolulu
--- Kyle Boatright wrote:
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Karen and Robert Brown"
>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: acoustical and thremal
> insuluation
>
>
> Brown"
> >
> >
> > Aircraft Spruce has a free booklet (p/n 09-42755)
> in their catalog that
> > discusses the details of insulating an aircraft,
> giving several options.
> > I'd recommend starting there. On my 7A, I used
> the sandwich technique
> > described in the book and made templates to fit
> each area of skin in the
> > airplane. These sandwiches are foam/aluminum
> foil/foam, put together with
> > spray on contact cement. I will have about 2" of
> this material (3 or 4
> > sandwiches) on the firewall, about 1" everywhere
> else. I put it on all
> > metal surfaces that are not occupied with
> something else, including
> > subpanel areas, behind the baggage bulkhead and
> areas in the tail. Total
> > weight to the airplane is about 10 pounds. I used
> the 1/4" "Super
> > Soundproofing Sheet" foam from Spruce (p/n 42720).
> That makes one
> > "sandwich" a little thicker than 1/2" once the
> foil is put in. I've
> > sprayed contact cement lightly to the aluminum to
> attach these. You can
> > still rip em out if you want to, but they are
> attached more pe!
> > rmanently than velcro. The plane isn't flying
> yet, but there is an
> > incredible difference just being inside it and
> working...it's like a sound
> > studio.
> >
> > Bob Brown
> > RV7A - wingtip lights/waiting on engine
>
> Bob,
>
> You may want to investigate some other attachment
> method than spray on
> contact adhesive. My experience is that it does not
> hold up well against
> the firewall. In fact, I've re-attached the
> insulation on my RV-6 firewall
> a couple of times over the course of 300 and
> something flight hours.
> Standing on my head in the footwell re-attaching
> insulation ranks about a 10
> on the misery index...
>
> KB
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sportypilot" <sportypilot(at)stx.rr.com> |
| Subject: | cutting out wheel pants |
I got the gear on and have been trying to figure out how not to make a
mistake on cutting out the rear portion of
the wheel pant to get it over the tire so i can mark the cut out for the
gear leg.. what did you guys start with on the
size hole or end with so I can cut it once and the fit the side for the
leg.. then I can find where to drill the holes for
the attach brackets.. I have the leg fairings cut out and clamped at the top
but the next step to get the wheel pants on
so I can start with the clay.. any help email or otherwise.. would be
awesome..
thnks in advance..
Danny..
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Bibb" <rebibb(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Crate for Completed RV-7 Tail Needed |
hmm- got a tape measure? Bathroom Scale?
> Does anyone have dimensions and weight of tail shipping crates so that I
> can get a quote from my moving company or a freight provider?
>
> Thanks!
> Matt
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
George in BC
Regarding RPM drop....
If you are using Vans set up on the airbox, not all of the inlet air is
coming thru the 2 in. SCAT tubing from the heat muff. The mounting for the 2
in. SCAT nipple on the air box allows for bypass air which is pulled from
the immediate area around the front of the airbox. My RPM drop is never as
much when the engine area is relatively cool soon after first start up verus
a restart when the engine is hot from a recent flight. I attribute this to
the air temp of that bypass air.
Dale in NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net> |
OK more poking around and I have run across more detail of the mod. How
did I not know about this?
Good grief!
This really looks great.
What is the matter with you people? Don't let these little gems of
information get by without letting us know.
You are all fired. I would have done this had I known about it.
And he has a honker engine. 330hp! Wow.
Maybe Ill just start over.
Mike
http://showplanes.com/index_800.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | acoustical and thremal insuluation |
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
Here is something I have been considering. http://www.quietcoat.com I don't remember where I found it but it looks very interesting and should be much lighter than the usual asphalt mats. Anyone have any experience with it?
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Emp Assembly
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Greg Grigson
Subject: Re: RV-List: acoustical and thremal insuluation
So... any suggestions on good adhesives or attachment methods for the black foam
soundproofing. What are your thoughts on 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive aka
"Camel Snot"?
Greg in Honolulu
--- Kyle Boatright wrote:
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Karen and Robert Brown"
>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: acoustical and thremal insuluation
>
>
> Brown"
> >
> >
> > Aircraft Spruce has a free booklet (p/n 09-42755)
> in their catalog that
> > discusses the details of insulating an aircraft,
> giving several options.
> > I'd recommend starting there. On my 7A, I used
> the sandwich technique
> > described in the book and made templates to fit
> each area of skin in the
> > airplane. These sandwiches are foam/aluminum
> foil/foam, put together with
> > spray on contact cement. I will have about 2" of
> this material (3 or 4
> > sandwiches) on the firewall, about 1" everywhere
> else. I put it on all
> > metal surfaces that are not occupied with
> something else, including
> > subpanel areas, behind the baggage bulkhead and
> areas in the tail. Total
> > weight to the airplane is about 10 pounds. I used
> the 1/4" "Super
> > Soundproofing Sheet" foam from Spruce (p/n 42720).
> That makes one
> > "sandwich" a little thicker than 1/2" once the
> foil is put in. I've
> > sprayed contact cement lightly to the aluminum to
> attach these. You can
> > still rip em out if you want to, but they are
> attached more pe!
> > rmanently than velcro. The plane isn't flying
> yet, but there is an
> > incredible difference just being inside it and
> working...it's like a sound
> > studio.
> >
> > Bob Brown
> > RV7A - wingtip lights/waiting on engine
>
> Bob,
>
> You may want to investigate some other attachment
> method than spray on
> contact adhesive. My experience is that it does not
> hold up well against
> the firewall. In fact, I've re-attached the
> insulation on my RV-6 firewall
> a couple of times over the course of 300 and
> something flight hours.
> Standing on my head in the footwell re-attaching
> insulation ranks about a 10
> on the misery index...
>
> KB
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marty" <martorious(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | acoustical and thremal insuluation |
|-----Original Message-----
|From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
|server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
|Sent: Wednesday, July 13, 2005 7:58 AM
|To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
|Subject: RE: RV-List: acoustical and thremal insuluation
|
|
|
| Here is something I have been considering. http://www.quietcoat.com
|I don't remember where I found it but it looks very interesting and
|should be much lighter than the usual asphalt mats. Anyone have any
|experience with it?
|
|Michael Sausen
|-10 #352 Emp Assembly
I'd be interested in seeing some burn data on this. I looked on the
website but couldn't find it mentioned anywhere. I'm interested in
quieting the plane as much as anyone, but I think I'm more paranoid of
adding fuel to the fire, as it were.
Marty in Indiana
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6(at)bryantechnology.com> |
| Subject: | Re: acoustical and thremal insuluation |
Greg,
If you are talking the spray on stuff, that is what Abey at flightline
interiors recommends. Not sure about the black foam soundproofing though
What is it? I am looking for something myself to put under my upholstry.
Tim
RV-6
-------Original Message-------
From: Greg Grigson
Date: 07/12/05 23:36:54
Subject: Re: RV-List: acoustical and thremal insuluation
So... any suggestions on good adhesives or attachment
methods for the black foam soundproofing. What are
your thoughts on 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive aka
"Camel Snot"?
Greg in Honolulu
--- Kyle Boatright wrote:
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Karen and Robert Brown"
>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: acoustical and thremal
> insuluation
>
>
> Brown"
> >
> >
> > Aircraft Spruce has a free booklet (p/n 09-42755)
> in their catalog that
> > discusses the details of insulating an aircraft,
> giving several options.
> > I'd recommend starting there. On my 7A, I used
> the sandwich technique
> > described in the book and made templates to fit
> each area of skin in the
> > airplane. These sandwiches are foam/aluminum
> foil/foam, put together with
> > spray on contact cement. I will have about 2" of
> this material (3 or 4
> > sandwiches) on the firewall, about 1" everywhere
> else. I put it on all
> > metal surfaces that are not occupied with
> something else, including
> > subpanel areas, behind the baggage bulkhead and
> areas in the tail. Total
> > weight to the airplane is about 10 pounds. I used
> the 1/4" "Super
> > Soundproofing Sheet" foam from Spruce (p/n 42720).
> That makes one
> > "sandwich" a little thicker than 1/2" once the
> foil is put in. I've
> > sprayed contact cement lightly to the aluminum to
> attach these. You can
> > still rip em out if you want to, but they are
> attached more pe!
> > rmanently than velcro. The plane isn't flying
> yet, but there is an
> > incredible difference just being inside it and
> working...it's like a sound
> > studio.
> >
> > Bob Brown
> > RV7A - wingtip lights/waiting on engine
>
> Bob,
>
> You may want to investigate some other attachment
> method than spray on
> contact adhesive. My experience is that it does not
> hold up well against
> the firewall. In fact, I've re-attached the
> insulation on my RV-6 firewall
> a couple of times over the course of 300 and
> something flight hours.
> Standing on my head in the footwell re-attaching
> insulation ranks about a 10
> on the misery index...
>
> KB
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George Inman" <ghinman(at)mts.net> |
| Subject: | Baffle seal at front |
Does anyone have good pictures
of how the baffle seal fits at the front cowl
inlets?
GEORGE H. INMAN
ghinman(at)mts.net
CELL 204 799 7062
HOME 204 287 8334
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: acoustical and thremal insuluation |
I had a bad experience with foam inside a race car years ago. The foam
started smoking, and I started choking on the fumes. There was never a
fire, and I am pretty sure the fumes would have taken me out first.
>
>Greg,
>If you are talking the spray on stuff, that is what Abey at flightline
>interiors recommends. Not sure about the black foam soundproofing though
>What is it? I am looking for something myself to put under my upholstry.
>
>Tim
>RV-6
>
>-------Original Message-------
>
>From: Greg Grigson
>Date: 07/12/05 23:36:54
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: acoustical and thremal insuluation
>
>
>So... any suggestions on good adhesives or attachment
>methods for the black foam soundproofing. What are
>your thoughts on 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive aka
>"Camel Snot"?
>
>Greg in Honolulu
>
>
>--- Kyle Boatright wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Karen and Robert Brown"
> >
> > To:
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: acoustical and thremal
> > insuluation
> >
> >
> > Brown"
> > >
> > >
> > > Aircraft Spruce has a free booklet (p/n 09-42755)
> > in their catalog that
> > > discusses the details of insulating an aircraft,
> > giving several options.
> > > I'd recommend starting there. On my 7A, I used
> > the sandwich technique
> > > described in the book and made templates to fit
> > each area of skin in the
> > > airplane. These sandwiches are foam/aluminum
> > foil/foam, put together with
> > > spray on contact cement. I will have about 2" of
> > this material (3 or 4
> > > sandwiches) on the firewall, about 1" everywhere
> > else. I put it on all
> > > metal surfaces that are not occupied with
> > something else, including
> > > subpanel areas, behind the baggage bulkhead and
> > areas in the tail. Total
> > > weight to the airplane is about 10 pounds. I used
> > the 1/4" "Super
> > > Soundproofing Sheet" foam from Spruce (p/n 42720).
> > That makes one
> > > "sandwich" a little thicker than 1/2" once the
> > foil is put in. I've
> > > sprayed contact cement lightly to the aluminum to
> > attach these. You can
> > > still rip em out if you want to, but they are
> > attached more pe!
> > > rmanently than velcro. The plane isn't flying
> > yet, but there is an
> > > incredible difference just being inside it and
> > working...it's like a sound
> > > studio.
> > >
> > > Bob Brown
> > > RV7A - wingtip lights/waiting on engine
> >
> > Bob,
> >
> > You may want to investigate some other attachment
> > method than spray on
> > contact adhesive. My experience is that it does not
> > hold up well against
> > the firewall. In fact, I've re-attached the
> > insulation on my RV-6 firewall
> > a couple of times over the course of 300 and
> > something flight hours.
> > Standing on my head in the footwell re-attaching
> > insulation ranks about a 10
> > on the misery index...
> >
> > KB
> >
> >
> > browse
> > Subscriptions page,
> > FAQ,
> >
> >
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6(at)bryantechnology.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Baffle seal at front |
Great Question, I need this also. Thanks for asking
Tim
RV-6
DNA
-------Original Message-------
From: George Inman
Date: 07/13/05 08:14:59
Subject: RV-List: Baffle seal at front
Does anyone have good pictures
of how the baffle seal fits at the front cowl
inlets?
GEORGE H. INMAN
ghinman(at)mts.net
CELL 204 799 7062
HOME 204 287 8334
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | acoustical and thermal insuluation |
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
I'm guessing the black foam Greg is referring to is probably the standard auto
soundproofing asphalt mats. They do the job but are also quite heavy which
is what makes them work so well. They usually go by the trade names Dynamat or
Fatmat and can get expensive.
They are real big in the auto sound world.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Emp Assembly
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
Subject: Re: RV-List: acoustical and thremal insuluation
Greg,
If you are talking the spray on stuff, that is what Abey at flightline interiors
recommends. Not sure about the black foam soundproofing though What is it?
I am looking for something myself to put under my upholstry.
Tim
RV-6
-------Original Message-------
From: Greg Grigson
Date: 07/12/05 23:36:54
Subject: Re: RV-List: acoustical and thremal insuluation
So... any suggestions on good adhesives or attachment methods for the black foam
soundproofing. What are your thoughts on 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive aka
"Camel Snot"?
Greg in Honolulu
--- Kyle Boatright wrote:
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Karen and Robert Brown"
>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: acoustical and thremal insuluation
>
>
> Brown"
> >
> >
> > Aircraft Spruce has a free booklet (p/n 09-42755)
> in their catalog that
> > discusses the details of insulating an aircraft,
> giving several options.
> > I'd recommend starting there. On my 7A, I used
> the sandwich technique
> > described in the book and made templates to fit
> each area of skin in the
> > airplane. These sandwiches are foam/aluminum
> foil/foam, put together with
> > spray on contact cement. I will have about 2" of
> this material (3 or 4
> > sandwiches) on the firewall, about 1" everywhere
> else. I put it on all
> > metal surfaces that are not occupied with
> something else, including
> > subpanel areas, behind the baggage bulkhead and
> areas in the tail. Total
> > weight to the airplane is about 10 pounds. I used
> the 1/4" "Super
> > Soundproofing Sheet" foam from Spruce (p/n 42720).
> That makes one
> > "sandwich" a little thicker than 1/2" once the
> foil is put in. I've
> > sprayed contact cement lightly to the aluminum to
> attach these. You can
> > still rip em out if you want to, but they are
> attached more pe!
> > rmanently than velcro. The plane isn't flying
> yet, but there is an
> > incredible difference just being inside it and
> working...it's like a sound
> > studio.
> >
> > Bob Brown
> > RV7A - wingtip lights/waiting on engine
>
> Bob,
>
> You may want to investigate some other attachment
> method than spray on
> contact adhesive. My experience is that it does not
> hold up well against
> the firewall. In fact, I've re-attached the
> insulation on my RV-6 firewall
> a couple of times over the course of 300 and
> something flight hours.
> Standing on my head in the footwell re-attaching
> insulation ranks about a 10
> on the misery index...
>
> KB
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Baffle seal at front |
On 07/13 9:58, George Inman wrote:
> Does anyone have good pictures
> of how the baffle seal fits at the front cowl
> inlets?
See entry dated 1/15/05.
http://rv7-a.com/baffling.htm
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Bert: I have the carb heat rig that Van's sells and a Grand Rapids EIS
with a carb heat probe. With carb heat full on I normally see about a 20 RPM
drop and maybe 10 to 15 degree F increase in Carb air temp at the most. On the
plus side, the carb air temp always runs at least 25 or 30 degrees F higher
than ambient and I have never seen it less than around 60 degree F once the
engine is warmed up.
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 112 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vincent Himsl" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> |
| Subject: | acoustical and thremal insuluation |
Hello,
There is a complete article on using and installing the super sound proof
foam. You can order it free from Aircraft Spruce (09-42755 HOW TO SOUNDPROOF
LIGHT A/C) or download it online
http://www.soundproofing.org/infopages/soundprf.html
I found it to be very helpful and informative. It talks about the glue and
how you should spot it on rather than layer it on completely as you 'will'
someday need to remove the soundproofing for whatever reason.
I have the floor of my RV8 covered with the super stuff and just by tapping
on the outside of the fuselage above and below it, you can really tell the
difference. However several builders, now flying (archives), are of the
opinion that noise canceling headsets make the most difference.
Regards,
Vince Himsl RV8-VSB Finish
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Greg Grigson
Subject: Re: RV-List: acoustical and thremal insuluation
So... any suggestions on good adhesives or attachment
methods for the black foam soundproofing. What are
your thoughts on 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive aka
"Camel Snot"?
Greg in Honolulu
--- Kyle Boatright wrote:
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Karen and Robert Brown"
>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: acoustical and thremal
> insuluation
>
>
> Brown"
> >
> >
> > Aircraft Spruce has a free booklet (p/n 09-42755)
> in their catalog that
> > discusses the details of insulating an aircraft,
> giving several options.
> > I'd recommend starting there. On my 7A, I used
> the sandwich technique
> > described in the book and made templates to fit
> each area of skin in the
> > airplane. These sandwiches are foam/aluminum
> foil/foam, put together with
> > spray on contact cement. I will have about 2" of
> this material (3 or 4
> > sandwiches) on the firewall, about 1" everywhere
> else. I put it on all
> > metal surfaces that are not occupied with
> something else, including
> > subpanel areas, behind the baggage bulkhead and
> areas in the tail. Total
> > weight to the airplane is about 10 pounds. I used
> the 1/4" "Super
> > Soundproofing Sheet" foam from Spruce (p/n 42720).
> That makes one
> > "sandwich" a little thicker than 1/2" once the
> foil is put in. I've
> > sprayed contact cement lightly to the aluminum to
> attach these. You can
> > still rip em out if you want to, but they are
> attached more pe!
> > rmanently than velcro. The plane isn't flying
> yet, but there is an
> > incredible difference just being inside it and
> working...it's like a sound
> > studio.
> >
> > Bob Brown
> > RV7A - wingtip lights/waiting on engine
>
> Bob,
>
> You may want to investigate some other attachment
> method than spray on
> contact adhesive. My experience is that it does not
> hold up well against
> the firewall. In fact, I've re-attached the
> insulation on my RV-6 firewall
> a couple of times over the course of 300 and
> something flight hours.
> Standing on my head in the footwell re-attaching
> insulation ranks about a 10
> on the misery index...
>
> KB
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | acoustical and thremal insuluation |
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
You have to jump over to their sister site for that. They market the same product
under different names and one is aimed at aircraft. They claim it meets FAA
burn tests. I think I am going to order the spray can and do some tests of
my own on it. Seeing how it's a polymer and not a foam, I doubt it would absorb
anything but I would like to make sure. Think I will do a dip test in some
avgas to be sure.
http://www.quietsolution.com/QAir_dsheet_scn.pdf
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Emp Assembly
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marty
Subject: RE: RV-List: acoustical and thremal insuluation
|-----Original Message-----
|From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
|server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
|Sent: Wednesday, July 13, 2005 7:58 AM
|To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
|Subject: RE: RV-List: acoustical and thremal insuluation
|
|
|
| Here is something I have been considering. http://www.quietcoat.com I
|don't remember where I found it but it looks very interesting and
|should be much lighter than the usual asphalt mats. Anyone have any
|experience with it?
|
|Michael Sausen
|-10 #352 Emp Assembly
I'd be interested in seeing some burn data on this. I looked on the website but
couldn't find it mentioned anywhere. I'm interested in quieting the plane as
much as anyone, but I think I'm more paranoid of adding fuel to the fire, as
it were.
Marty in Indiana
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
Howdy 'List-
Yes, I have the "disease" of brake drag and will soon be re-lining the pads-
after scouring the archives and reviewing the '98 RVator article, I'm curious
if anyone's tried just adding external springs around the rods ala Cleveland?
I'd really like to avoid disassembling/overhauling/refilling brake system if
possible, and having the extra springs might add some redundancy?
Thanks-
Mark Phillips -6A, 205 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert E. Lynch" <rv6lynch(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dragging Brakes |
You probably have the bolt to tight on bottom of .
the brake cylinder. try loosening it a little to see if things get better.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vic Jacko" <vicwj(at)earthlink.net> |
Hi List, maybe someone can enlighten me on the following scenario:
When I took my basic flight training I flew two different Cessna 152's.
One had an EGT and the other did not. I have owned other aircraft which had
the EGT but I fail to understand the importantance of this gauge.
I generally lean at altitude by slowly leaning the mixture until the engine
misses then enrichen only enough to smooth the engine. I have at times used
the EGT but end up using the aforementioned leaning system as it appears to
be easier and in my opinion with a carbureted engine the way to go..
Would you tell me how and when the EGT would be "really important" to have?
I consider CHT far more important than EGT allthough the are slower to
react..
Remember that we are talking about four stroke engines. Two stroke engines
may require a closer look at the EGT.
I don't think the EGT is even required on certified aircraft as it was not
on the equipment list for one of the 152's I flew back in the spam can days.
Thanks to the experts who are about to comment on this subject
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: EGT/ CHT Gauges |
In a message dated 07/13/2005 7:47:19 PM Central Standard Time,
vicwj(at)earthlink.net writes:
Would you tell me how and when the EGT would be "really important" to have?
>>>
Not particularly important on a carbureted Lyc- much more so on injected
engines- but when I glance at the EGT during instrument scan, (particularly
during or after any climbing) if it reads in the 1300s it translates as "you forgot
to lean, dummy" and I grab the red knob...
Plus, having all four monitored can assist with diagnostics (like- you forgot
to lean!) or which plug is fouled, valve sticking, (I think) intake leak etc.
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)warpdriveonline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EGT/ CHT Gauges |
>
> Hi List, maybe someone can enlighten me on the following scenario:
>
> When I took my basic flight training I flew two different Cessna 152's.
> One had an EGT and the other did not. I have owned other aircraft which
> had
> the EGT but I fail to understand the importantance of this gauge.
>
> I generally lean at altitude by slowly leaning the mixture until the
> engine
> misses then enrichen only enough to smooth the engine. I have at times
> used
> the EGT but end up using the aforementioned leaning system as it appears
> to
> be easier and in my opinion with a carbureted engine the way to go..
>
> Would you tell me how and when the EGT would be "really important" to
> have?
>
> I consider CHT far more important than EGT allthough the are slower to
> react..
>
Vic,
Your leaning method is perfectly in line with the Lycoming guidelines. The
EGT might be important with an injected engine.
With your situation CHT is far more important, not for leaning but for
determing engine cooling.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://n5lp.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greg Grigson <iflyhawaii2(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | acoustical and thermal insuluation |
Thanks for the site. I thought (poor memory) that SS
recommended a spray adhesive. So with my -6A panel
complete I didn't want a lot of aerosal glue flying
around under there, especially with me in the
too-familiar contorted pose! BTW I bought the Super
Soundproofing Mat.
Aloha.
Greg in Honolulu
--- Vincent Himsl wrote:
>
>
> Hello,
> There is a complete article on using and installing
> the super sound proof
> foam. You can order it free from Aircraft Spruce
> (09-42755 HOW TO SOUNDPROOF
> LIGHT A/C) or download it online
> http://www.soundproofing.org/infopages/soundprf.html
>
> I found it to be very helpful and informative. It
> talks about the glue and
> how you should spot it on rather than layer it on
> completely as you 'will'
> someday need to remove the soundproofing for
> whatever reason.
>
> I have the floor of my RV8 covered with the super
> stuff and just by tapping
> on the outside of the fuselage above and below it,
> you can really tell the
> difference. However several builders, now flying
> (archives), are of the
> opinion that noise canceling headsets make the most
> difference.
>
> Regards,
> Vince Himsl RV8-VSB Finish
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Greg Grigson
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: acoustical and thremal
> insuluation
>
>
>
> So... any suggestions on good adhesives or
> attachment
> methods for the black foam soundproofing. What are
> your thoughts on 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive aka
> "Camel Snot"?
>
> Greg in Honolulu
>
>
> --- Kyle Boatright wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Karen and Robert Brown"
> >
> > To:
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: acoustical and thremal
> > insuluation
> >
> >
> > Brown"
> > >
> > >
> > > Aircraft Spruce has a free booklet (p/n
> 09-42755)
> > in their catalog that
> > > discusses the details of insulating an aircraft,
> > giving several options.
> > > I'd recommend starting there. On my 7A, I used
> > the sandwich technique
> > > described in the book and made templates to fit
> > each area of skin in the
> > > airplane. These sandwiches are foam/aluminum
> > foil/foam, put together with
> > > spray on contact cement. I will have about 2"
> of
> > this material (3 or 4
> > > sandwiches) on the firewall, about 1" everywhere
> > else. I put it on all
> > > metal surfaces that are not occupied with
> > something else, including
> > > subpanel areas, behind the baggage bulkhead and
> > areas in the tail. Total
> > > weight to the airplane is about 10 pounds. I
> used
> > the 1/4" "Super
> > > Soundproofing Sheet" foam from Spruce (p/n
> 42720).
> > That makes one
> > > "sandwich" a little thicker than 1/2" once the
> > foil is put in. I've
> > > sprayed contact cement lightly to the aluminum
> to
> > attach these. You can
> > > still rip em out if you want to, but they are
> > attached more pe!
> > > rmanently than velcro. The plane isn't flying
> > yet, but there is an
> > > incredible difference just being inside it and
> > working...it's like a sound
> > > studio.
> > >
> > > Bob Brown
> > > RV7A - wingtip lights/waiting on engine
> >
> > Bob,
> >
> > You may want to investigate some other attachment
> > method than spray on
> > contact adhesive. My experience is that it does
> not
> > hold up well against
> > the firewall. In fact, I've re-attached the
> > insulation on my RV-6 firewall
> > a couple of times over the course of 300 and
> > something flight hours.
> > Standing on my head in the footwell re-attaching
> > insulation ranks about a 10
> > on the misery index...
> >
> > KB
> >
> >
> >
> > browse
> > Subscriptions page,
> > FAQ,
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greg Grigson <iflyhawaii2(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: cutting out wheel pants |
Danny,
Just got my wheelpants done two weeks ago in my 6A. I
cut a slot, starting out about with of the gear leg
bottom diameter, then worked my way up to provide at
least 1/4" of clearance. One is right "on" the other
is a liitle off. How much? Who knows, you cover it
all in fiberglass and hardly ever see it again.
Man, if your workin on "the" pants you're really
close! I found that, as others have previously
voiced, fiberglass is not too difficult to learn.
Especially if you have some Lancair buddies. Just a
bit tedious. I will have a body man fix all my lumpy
surfaces prior to painting, I've found I don't have
the eye or the patience for the super smooth, flowing
look. There's a good link somewhere I'm sure you have
on materials and layups..
BTW I used my wife's ceramic potters clay (water
based) with good results. Couldn't find oil-based in
the islands mon.
Aloha.
Greg
--- Sportypilot wrote:
>
>
> I got the gear on and have been trying to figure out
> how not to make a
> mistake on cutting out the rear portion of
> the wheel pant to get it over the tire so i can mark
> the cut out for the
> gear leg.. what did you guys start with on the
> size hole or end with so I can cut it once and the
> fit the side for the
> leg.. then I can find where to drill the holes for
> the attach brackets.. I have the leg fairings cut
> out and clamped at the top
> but the next step to get the wheel pants on
> so I can start with the clay.. any help email or
> otherwise.. would be
> awesome..
>
>
> thnks in advance..
>
> Danny..
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> |
| Subject: | How are you keeping the water out of an RV6/7 "Tip-Up"???? |
For those of you with the RV6 or7 "Tip-Up" Canopy, how do you keep rain
water from running into your avionics etc.?
This is assuming the plane is OUTSIDE and UNCOVERED. A scenario for this is
when you are at an Airshow like Sun-n-Fun or AirVenture and a surprise
shower comes up OR when you are taxiing in and get caught by a shower.
The last scenario is particularly bad when you go to open the canopy and all
of the water from the canopy drains inside (unless you have someone meet you
to remove the water first. :-)
Did you build a seal/ditch using just silicone or did you use water
repellent cloth? Or did you put a metal cover over everything??
Any ideas from someone who has "been there" will be REALLY appreciated. I am
heading toward OSH real soon and need to fix this somehow over the next few
days.
Thanks,
James
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dragging Brakes |
I put an extra spring around the outside of the plunger (3/8 ID IIRC)
with a washer top and bottom and it helps get the pedals back where they
belong. Also, you might check that the bend in the al tube around the
gear leg isn't putting any side load on the brakes. I had to tweak this
to get them to quit dragging.
Jeff Point
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fastback RV8 |
| From: | alan(at)reichertech.com |
> Subject: RV-List: Fastback RV8
> From: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net>
>
>
>
> OK more poking around and I have run across more detail of the mod. How
> did I not know about this?
>
> Good grief!
>
> This really looks great.
>
> What is the matter with you people? Don't let these little gems of
> information get by without letting us know.
>
> You are all fired. I would have done this had I known about it.
>
>
> And he has a honker engine. 330hp! Wow.
>
> Maybe Ill just start over.
>
>
> Mike
>
> http://showplanes.com/index_800.htm
>
Well, here's another option I ran across a couple months ago. I know very
little about this one. However, it keeps the slider option. You have to
purchase a different bubble, though.
http://members.cox.net/rv8fastback/
--
Alan Reichert
Priv, Inst, SEL
RV-8 N927AR (reserved)
Prepping Horizontal/Vertical Stabilizers for Assembly
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How are you keeping the water out of an RV6/7 "Tip-Up"???? |
James I used a strip of thick (1/4-3/8") molding (automotive) shaped sort
of like an "L". I place the "L" horizontal such that the "foot" of the "L"
was set back from the front of the opening edge and sticking up. I don't
have a part number - suggest checking some of the auto catalogs for sealing
strips and look at the diagrams of the different type. This is glued (3M)
to the metal strip that runs around the top of the instrument panel bulkhead
(at least on the 6A) and down the sides. Most of the water that runs off
the canopy gets "trapped" by the "foot" of the L and is diverted down the
sides of the instrument panel bulkhead. Also If a lot of water has
accumulated on the canopy, I first wipe if off with one of the very soft
silicon plastic water wipes (sometimes called "California Wipers") Also
opening the canopy slowly will help control the rate of run-off. Hope this
helps.
Ed
----- Original Message -----
From: "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com>
Subject: RV-List: How are you keeping the water out of an RV6/7 "Tip-Up"????
>
> For those of you with the RV6 or7 "Tip-Up" Canopy, how do you keep rain
> water from running into your avionics etc.?
>
> This is assuming the plane is OUTSIDE and UNCOVERED. A scenario for this
> is
> when you are at an Airshow like Sun-n-Fun or AirVenture and a surprise
> shower comes up OR when you are taxiing in and get caught by a shower.
>
> The last scenario is particularly bad when you go to open the canopy and
> all
> of the water from the canopy drains inside (unless you have someone meet
> you
> to remove the water first. :-)
>
> Did you build a seal/ditch using just silicone or did you use water
> repellent cloth? Or did you put a metal cover over everything??
>
> Any ideas from someone who has "been there" will be REALLY appreciated. I
> am
> heading toward OSH real soon and need to fix this somehow over the next
> few
> days.
>
> Thanks,
>
> James
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR" <Fred.Stucklen(at)UTCFuelCells.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How are you keeping the water out of an RV6/7 |
James,
I've built two RV-6A's with tip-ups, both had a Velcro'ed in tent-fly
material over the area behind
the instrument panel. By sandwiching the Velcro with a metal strip, you will
eliminate the eventual
breakdown of the Velcro backing glue. I used 2" wide Velcro all around the
airframe, 1" sewed into
the tent fly material....
Fred Stucklen
RV6A N926RV
435 hrs in under two years!
james(at)nextupventures.com>
For those of you with the RV6 or7 "Tip-Up" Canopy, how do you keep
rain
water from running into your avionics etc.?
This is assuming the plane is OUTSIDE and UNCOVERED. A scenario for
this is
when you are at an Airshow like Sun-n-Fun or AirVenture and a surprise
shower comes up OR when you are taxiing in and get caught by a shower.
The last scenario is particularly bad when you go to open the canopy
and all
of the water from the canopy drains inside (unless you have someone
meet you
to remove the water first. :-)
Did you build a seal/ditch using just silicone or did you use water
repellent cloth? Or did you put a metal cover over everything??
Any ideas from someone who has "been there" will be REALLY
appreciated. I am
heading toward OSH real soon and need to fix this somehow over the
next few
days.
Thanks,
James
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hull, Don" <Donald.C.Hull(at)nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | How are you keeping the water out of an RV6/7 |
Fred,
Do you have any photos of your installation?
Don
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stucklen, Frederic
W UTPWR
Subject: Re: RV-List: How are you keeping the water out of an RV6/7
James,
I've built two RV-6A's with tip-ups, both had a Velcro'ed in tent-fly
material over the area behind the instrument panel. By sandwiching the
Velcro with a metal strip, you will eliminate the eventual breakdown of the
Velcro backing glue. I used 2" wide Velcro all around the airframe, 1" sewed
into the tent fly material....
Fred Stucklen
RV6A N926RV
435 hrs in under two years!
james(at)nextupventures.com>
For those of you with the RV6 or7 "Tip-Up" Canopy, how do you keep
rain
water from running into your avionics etc.?
This is assuming the plane is OUTSIDE and UNCOVERED. A scenario for
this is
when you are at an Airshow like Sun-n-Fun or AirVenture and a surprise
shower comes up OR when you are taxiing in and get caught by a shower.
The last scenario is particularly bad when you go to open the canopy
and all
of the water from the canopy drains inside (unless you have someone
meet you
to remove the water first. :-)
Did you build a seal/ditch using just silicone or did you use water
repellent cloth? Or did you put a metal cover over everything??
Any ideas from someone who has "been there" will be REALLY
appreciated. I am
heading toward OSH real soon and need to fix this somehow over the
next few
days.
Thanks,
James
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hull, Don" <Donald.C.Hull(at)nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | How are you keeping the water out of an RV6/7 "Tip-Up"???? |
Ed,
Do you have any photos of your L-shaped molding?
Don
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ed Anderson
Subject: Re: RV-List: How are you keeping the water out of an RV6/7
"Tip-Up"????
James I used a strip of thick (1/4-3/8") molding (automotive) shaped sort
of like an "L". I place the "L" horizontal such that the "foot" of the "L"
was set back from the front of the opening edge and sticking up. I don't
have a part number - suggest checking some of the auto catalogs for sealing
strips and look at the diagrams of the different type. This is glued (3M)
to the metal strip that runs around the top of the instrument panel bulkhead
(at least on the 6A) and down the sides. Most of the water that runs off
the canopy gets "trapped" by the "foot" of the L and is diverted down the
sides of the instrument panel bulkhead. Also If a lot of water has
accumulated on the canopy, I first wipe if off with one of the very soft
silicon plastic water wipes (sometimes called "California Wipers") Also
opening the canopy slowly will help control the rate of run-off. Hope this
helps.
Ed
----- Original Message -----
From: "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com>
Subject: RV-List: How are you keeping the water out of an RV6/7 "Tip-Up"????
> -->
>
> For those of you with the RV6 or7 "Tip-Up" Canopy, how do you keep
> rain water from running into your avionics etc.?
>
> This is assuming the plane is OUTSIDE and UNCOVERED. A scenario for
> this
> is
> when you are at an Airshow like Sun-n-Fun or AirVenture and a surprise
> shower comes up OR when you are taxiing in and get caught by a shower.
>
> The last scenario is particularly bad when you go to open the canopy
> and
> all
> of the water from the canopy drains inside (unless you have someone meet
> you
> to remove the water first. :-)
>
> Did you build a seal/ditch using just silicone or did you use water
> repellent cloth? Or did you put a metal cover over everything??
>
> Any ideas from someone who has "been there" will be REALLY
> appreciated. I
> am
> heading toward OSH real soon and need to fix this somehow over the next
> few
> days.
>
> Thanks,
>
> James
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: acoustical and thermal insuluation |
In a message dated 7/14/05 12:10:17 AM Central Daylight Time,
iflyhawaii2(at)yahoo.com writes:
> So with my -6A panel
> complete I didn't want a lot of aerosal glue flying
> around under there, especially with me in the
> too-familiar contorted pose!
>>>
3M Hi-Strength 90 is pretty tenacious stuff, and very little, if any,
overspray- it goes on kinda like spatter paint, just fine strings of material spewing
in a fairly tight pattern from the nozzle...
http://www.rochfordsupply.com/product_listing.asp_Q_CatID_E_406_A_SubCatID_E_425_A_ProdID_E_3068
About $14 Stateside from the local Lowes Depot...
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | List Digest Truncation Fixed!! |
Dear Listers,
I finally figured out today what was causing the occasional
truncation of the daily List Digest emails. Seems that every once in
a while a message would contain a single "." (period) on line all by
itself. The mailers would see this and assume that this was the
universal emailer signal for "end of message", and consequently
wouldn't process any of the rest of the Digest message.
I've put in a filter today to remove any of these sequences so we
should be back in business on the Digests.
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin.
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Burden" <crb(at)commspeed.net> |
| Subject: | Piper pitot static |
HELP!!
I have purchased a Piper turbo Arrow Pitot-static probe and need advice from
some of you as to where on the 7-A wing to install it. I have checked the
archives and they indicate that the pitot location is not critical but the
static is but give no locations. My part # for the Pitot-static is
96392-006.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Ron
CRB(at)commspeed.net
RV 7-A quickbuild
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Piper pitot static |
Ron:
I put mine right where Van calls out. It work fine. Altitude is right on.
Airspeed reads a little low above 100 KIAS.
I do not know what the Piper part number is.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,694 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Ron Burden" <crb(at)commspeed.net>
Subject: RV-List: Piper pitot static
Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2005 11:18:06 -0700
HELP!!
I have purchased a Piper turbo Arrow Pitot-static probe and need advice from
some of you as to where on the 7-A wing to install it. I have checked the
archives and they indicate that the pitot location is not critical but the
static is but give no locations. My part # for the Pitot-static is
96392-006.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Ron
CRB(at)commspeed.net
RV 7-A quickbuild
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sportav8r(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: How are you keeping the water out of an RV6/7 |
I, too, would like to see Fred's set-up.
I lost a transponder once to water damage from a week outside in the rain. Now
my fix is a thick bead of clear RTV inside the lip, where others are using L-channel
weatherstripping, and to tape the forward canopy seam with black vinyl
electrical tape whenever I tie down outside overnight. Makes some litter, but
it keeps everything dry inside and it's cheap and easy.
-Stormy
-----Original Message-----
From: Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR <Fred.Stucklen(at)UTCFuelCells.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: How are you keeping the water out of an RV6/7
James,
I've built two RV-6A's with tip-ups, both had a Velcro'ed in tent-fly
material over the area behind
the instrument panel. By sandwiching the Velcro with a metal strip, you will
eliminate the eventual
breakdown of the Velcro backing glue. I used 2" wide Velcro all around the
airframe, 1" sewed into
the tent fly material....
Fred Stucklen
RV6A N926RV
435 hrs in under two years!
james(at)nextupventures.com>
For those of you with the RV6 or7 "Tip-Up" Canopy, how do you keep
rain
water from running into your avionics etc.?
This is assuming the plane is OUTSIDE and UNCOVERED. A scenario for
this is
when you are at an Airshow like Sun-n-Fun or AirVenture and a surprise
shower comes up OR when you are taxiing in and get caught by a shower.
The last scenario is particularly bad when you go to open the canopy
and all
of the water from the canopy drains inside (unless you have someone
meet you
to remove the water first. :-)
Did you build a seal/ditch using just silicone or did you use water
repellent cloth? Or did you put a metal cover over everything??
Any ideas from someone who has "been there" will be REALLY
appreciated. I am
heading toward OSH real soon and need to fix this somehow over the
next few
days.
Thanks,
James
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How are you keeping the water out of an RV6/7 "Tip-Up"???? |
No, I don't Don. Just not one of those "exciting" things that it would
occur to me to take a photo of {:>) Its been a few years ago, but seems
like I found the shape/size I wanted looking in the JCWhitney auto catalog
which had a page or two with numerous types of seals.
Ed A
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hull, Don" <Donald.C.Hull(at)nasa.gov>
Subject: RE: RV-List: How are you keeping the water out of an RV6/7
"Tip-Up"????
>
> Ed,
> Do you have any photos of your L-shaped molding?
> Don
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ed Anderson
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: How are you keeping the water out of an RV6/7
> "Tip-Up"????
>
>
> James I used a strip of thick (1/4-3/8") molding (automotive) shaped sort
> of like an "L". I place the "L" horizontal such that the "foot" of the
> "L"
> was set back from the front of the opening edge and sticking up. I don't
> have a part number - suggest checking some of the auto catalogs for
> sealing
> strips and look at the diagrams of the different type. This is glued (3M)
> to the metal strip that runs around the top of the instrument panel
> bulkhead
>
> (at least on the 6A) and down the sides. Most of the water that runs off
> the canopy gets "trapped" by the "foot" of the L and is diverted down the
> sides of the instrument panel bulkhead. Also If a lot of water has
> accumulated on the canopy, I first wipe if off with one of the very soft
> silicon plastic water wipes (sometimes called "California Wipers") Also
> opening the canopy slowly will help control the rate of run-off. Hope
> this
> helps.
>
> Ed
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: How are you keeping the water out of an RV6/7
> "Tip-Up"????
>
>
>> -->
>>
>> For those of you with the RV6 or7 "Tip-Up" Canopy, how do you keep
>> rain water from running into your avionics etc.?
>>
>> This is assuming the plane is OUTSIDE and UNCOVERED. A scenario for
>> this
>> is
>> when you are at an Airshow like Sun-n-Fun or AirVenture and a surprise
>> shower comes up OR when you are taxiing in and get caught by a shower.
>>
>> The last scenario is particularly bad when you go to open the canopy
>> and
>> all
>> of the water from the canopy drains inside (unless you have someone meet
>> you
>> to remove the water first. :-)
>>
>> Did you build a seal/ditch using just silicone or did you use water
>> repellent cloth? Or did you put a metal cover over everything??
>>
>> Any ideas from someone who has "been there" will be REALLY
>> appreciated. I
>> am
>> heading toward OSH real soon and need to fix this somehow over the next
>> few
>> days.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> James
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Freeman <flyeyes(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Piper pitot static |
On Jul 14, 2005, at 1:18 PM, Ron Burden wrote:
>
> HELP!!
>
> I have purchased a Piper turbo Arrow Pitot-static probe and need
> advice from
> some of you as to where on the 7-A wing to install it. I have
> checked the
> archives and they indicate that the pitot location is not critical
> but the
> static is but give no locations. My part # for the Pitot-static is
> 96392-006.
>
> Thanks in advance for your help.
>
> Ron
Ron, I'm using this pitot tube on my RV-8 (same wing as the 7-A) and
it works fine. I did, however, use the stock Van's "pop" rivet
static ports on the aft fuselage. The Piper static port is
unconnected. As Kevin has noted, the pitot source is less critical.
My unadjusted numbers seem to be very accurate on the high end
(within the limits of my ability to check them) and about 4-6 knots
high on the low end. Once I have a little more data I can tweak the
EFIS airspeeds to get it exact.
I flew an RV6 using the Piper pitot and static system, and it was
accurate on the high end, but IIRC about 15 knots low at approach
speeds.
I'm happy I went ahead and installed the stock static system.
James Freeman
N9TN flying!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PeterHunt1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | acoustical & thermal insulation |
Greg,
I used 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive (the yellow stuff) P/N 051135-08001 to
glue pieces of black soundproofing (from ACS) on the inside of my fuselage
(behind baggage area) to deaden noises. A little on the soundproofing and just
stick on the aluminum. I suppose there was no more than 20 second drying time.
Works great.
Pete in Clearwater
RV-6 with IFR panel
First engine start was last week
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Narco 122D mounting? |
I just received a Narco 122D, and am struggling to get the thing in
the panel. I want to mount it on the aft side (front side?, engine
side?, you know what I mean) of the panel, rather than cut an ATI
shaped hole and slip it in from the cockpit side of the panel. I've
cut the hole and its various cutouts, as shown in the install
manual. But I can't get the darned thing in the hole - the knobs are
in the way. It is like a Chinese puzzle. As near as I can figure, I
need to remove every knob to get it to slip into the hole. It seems
like the long shaft at the top right has to slip into its hole first,
and that limits how much you can jockey the unit around to get the
knobs into the cutouts.
I've managed to remove the Power/Volume knob, and the Course Select
knob, but, I can't get the frequency changing knobs off. One set
screw doesn't seem to fit anything I've got to turn it with. It is
so deep in the hole that I can't see what it looks like
What is the trick? Is there a set screw in every hole in the
frequency knobs? Are they all Torx T-5, or is one of something else
like a tiny Allen headed screw?
Thanks for any information.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Narco 122D mounting? |
On 14 Jul 2005, at 19:10, Kevin Horton wrote:
> I just received a Narco 122D, and am struggling to get the thing in
> the panel. I want to mount it on the aft side (front side?, engine
> side?, you know what I mean) of the panel, rather than cut an ATI
> shaped hole and slip it in from the cockpit side of the panel.
> I've cut the hole and its various cutouts, as shown in the install
> manual. But I can't get the darned thing in the hole - the knobs
> are in the way. It is like a Chinese puzzle. As near as I can
> figure, I need to remove every knob to get it to slip into the
> hole. It seems like the long shaft at the top right has to slip
> into its hole first, and that limits how much you can jockey the
> unit around to get the knobs into the cutouts.
>
> I've managed to remove the Power/Volume knob, and the Course Select
> knob, but, I can't get the frequency changing knobs off. One set
> screw doesn't seem to fit anything I've got to turn it with. It is
> so deep in the hole that I can't see what it looks like
>
> What is the trick? Is there a set screw in every hole in the
> frequency knobs? Are they all Torx T-5, or is one of something
> else like a tiny Allen headed screw?
>
> Thanks for any information.
>
> Kevin
I knew I would figure this out as soon as I sent the e-mail.
I had messed around with that blasted thing for 30 minutes, and
couldn't do it. But I just went back out in the garage for one more
try, and I found the solution. I swear I tried this before, and it
wouldn't work, but it does now.
Solution - remove the Power/Volume and Course Select knobs. Insert
the long Power/Volume shaft in its hole, and slid the unit towards
the panel, so it is at an angle, touching the panel on the right
edge. You should be able to twist it just so to rotate the lower
right portion into place, with the shaft below the frequency changing
knobs slipping into its cutout. Then you can slip the Course Select
knob shaft into its hole. Insert the screws, then replace all the
knobs. Piece of cake :)
Problem solved.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denis Walsh <denis.walsh(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Piper pitot static |
I have a six A with a used piper pitot. I was skeptical so installed
a dual static system, with hoses to both the piper and to van's pop
rivet. Unfortunately I started with the Van's static system, and
found it to be accurate to teh knot as best I could measure it.
Hence I have not got around to checking the Piper system yet. If
there is any interest, I will do some runs, but not til after Osh.
Denis Walsh
On Jul 14, 2005, at 3:39 PM, James Freeman wrote:
>
>
> On Jul 14, 2005, at 1:18 PM, Ron Burden wrote:
>
>
>>
>> HELP!!
>>
>> I have purchased a Piper turbo Arrow Pitot-static probe and need
>> advice from
>> some of you as to where on the 7-A wing to install it. I have
>> checked the
>> archives and they indicate that the pitot location is not critical
>> but the
>> static is but give no locations. My part # for the Pitot-static is
>> 96392-006.
>>
>> Thanks in advance for your help.
>>
>> Ron
>>
>
>
> Ron, I'm using this pitot tube on my RV-8 (same wing as the 7-A) and
> it works fine. I did, however, use the stock Van's "pop" rivet
> static ports on the aft fuselage. The Piper static port is
> unconnected. As Kevin has noted, the pitot source is less critical.
> My unadjusted numbers seem to be very accurate on the high end
> (within the limits of my ability to check them) and about 4-6 knots
> high on the low end. Once I have a little more data I can tweak the
> EFIS airspeeds to get it exact.
>
> I flew an RV6 using the Piper pitot and static system, and it was
> accurate on the high end, but IIRC about 15 knots low at approach
> speeds.
>
> I'm happy I went ahead and installed the stock static system.
>
> James Freeman
> N9TN flying!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: How are you keeping the water out of an RV6/7 |
In a message dated 07/14/2005 1:14:47 PM Central Standard Time,
sportav8r(at)aol.com writes:
For those of you with the RV6 or7 "Tip-Up" Canopy, how do you keep
rain
water from running into your avionics etc.?
>>>
I found that one major ingress point on my tip-up was the flutes around the
top of the sub-panel. Water would collect in these openings behind the
weatherstrip, then pour on me and pax's feet when taking off. Good idea to seal
these up before final install of canopy...
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
> Would you tell me how and when the EGT would be "really important" to
> have?
>
Vic,
Multi probe EGT can be very helpful in diagnosing which spark cylinder or
plug is causing a rough mag check.
Others posted that it would be important to have it for fuel injection, and
here is why: With FI, one has the opportunity to finely balance mixtures
from cylinder to cylinder by swapping out injector nozzles. However, this
can only be done if one knows when each cylinder reaches peak EGT. Some
carbureted RV's can be run lean of peak smoothly with electronic ignition
and a little luck. In those cases, knowing EGT's is also important to
establish how balanced the mixtures are. I routinely cruise next to other
RV's burning 2 gallons/hour more than I (9 vs 7), which is the payback. I
need to add that without electronic ignition advance, I cannot lean as
aggressively.
In many RV's, cooling is marginal (a desirable performance attribute for
most missions). If one simply pulls the red knob until it runs rough, and
then richens it until it is smooth, they will likely be running at something
around peak EGT. In an RV, this will probably mean CHT's which are quite
high as compared to 50 LOP or 100 ROP operations. If I simply "rich til
smooth", my CHT's may run up near 400 on a given flight. Leaning (I have
FI) to 50 LOP will lower CHT's by around 50 - 60 degrees (I am not kidding).
None of this matters much on the ol' trainer spam cans, as their cooling is
excessive (which is partly to blame when an RV climbing at 1500 fpm runs
past a 172 in level cruise).
Alex Peterson
RV6A N66AP 635 hours
Maple Grove, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
| Subject: | Closing tail dragger RV8 gear boxes. |
Guys =96 I am currently building the RV8 tail dragger gear boxes. Closing the
gear box, i.e. attaching the cover (802C) onto the sides (802 A & B), calls
for AN470 rivets. Once closed, getting inside the gear box is sort of hard.
Any of you guys have experience with replacing the rivets with screws (#6
screws should do it) so that the cover could be removable?
Thanks,
Michele Delsol
RV8 - Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greg Grigson <iflyhawaii2(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Ellison TBI Troubles |
Oh wise Listers,
I 've just started ground testing on my RV-6A. I have
encountered a rough running condition at full throttle
that smooths out with extreme leaning ( about 1/2 of
my mixture lever pulled back) and adds another 150
RPM.
I've got an O-360 with one Lightspeed and one Mag, The
Ellison EFS 4-5 with Vans air box, turning the big 85
pitch Sensenich metal prop. With aggressive leaning I
can get the RPM others on the list report (about 2200
RPM). It just seems toooooo lean.
Jim Ellison says just lean it until it runs smooth at
full throttle and takeoff. This has the A&Ps here
scratching thier heads as this is a totally different
procedure than what they are familiar with. I don't
want to damage my engine or the test pilot on the
first flight.
Any thoughts from those who have experience with this
setup? How about any clever O-320 guys with some
ideas?
Please help me in Honolulu.
Mahalo.
Greg
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Closing tail dragger RV8 gear boxes. |
| From: | "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net> |
I did just as you suggested at the behest of an award winning RV-8 guy
that said if he had to do one thing over, he would make this mod.
Everything goes into and out of those damn gear towers.
Best
Mike
http://www2.mstewart.net:8080/super8/interesting.htm
click on gear tower mod.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]
Subject: RV-List: Closing tail dragger RV8 gear boxes.
Guys =96 I am currently building the RV8 tail dragger gear boxes.
Closing the
gear box, i.e. attaching the cover (802C) onto the sides (802 A & B),
calls
for AN470 rivets. Once closed, getting inside the gear box is sort of
hard.
Any of you guys have experience with replacing the rivets with screws
(#6
screws should do it) so that the cover could be removable?
Thanks,
Michele Delsol
RV8 - Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Hi George,
Sorry, I do not have carb. temp. change info. using Vans carb heat scat tube
flange on the airbox. Will take note of that in the future. Usually just
look for the RPM drop to confirm that carb heat is working.
Dale
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "flynlow" <flynlow(at)usaviator.net> |
| Subject: | Fast Back Question ET AL |
Hello Group;
1. Does anyone sell or have a set of plans to make an RV8 into a fast back?
I liked the pictures I saw and would like to see more. I am at this point
unwilling to pay the price for a kit. I would prefer to fabricate my own and
plans would be quite helpful.
2. Is there any performance gain with the fast back?
3. Has anyone ever used the spray styrofoam insulation found at most lumber
yards for sound deadening and insulation in an RV? Looks to me like it would
be cheap and work quite well, but I have no experience using it.
Thank you
Bud Silvers
RV-8 Starting fuselage soon.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Hansen" <jerry-hansen(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | RV / Long-EZ collision |
With regard to the RV - Long-EZ mid-air collision last weekend, there is a
remarkable video that has been posted, commemorating the canard aviator. It
shows a bit of the formation flight work of which they were all so proud.
http://www.GlassOvercast.com/video/jayblum.wmv
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fast Back Question ET AL |
On 15 Jul 2005, at 09:24, flynlow wrote:
>
> 2. Is there any performance gain with the fast back?
>
In theory, there should be a small reduction in drag, which would
result in slightly higher speeds. But, the only way to really know
how much the increase is would be to start with a normal RV-8, do
comprehensive performance testing, then modify that aircraft, without
making any other changes.
If you tried to compare performance of someone's fastback RV-8,
against "normal" RV-8s, it would be very difficult to separate out
the effect of the fastback mod from other things, such as engine to
engine variation, prop to prop variation, how straight the aircraft
are built, how the flaps and ailerons are rigged, weight and CG, how
accurately the performance is measured, etc.
Kent Pacer did a whole series of modifications to his Mustang II,
measuring the speed after each mod. He did a fastback mod on it, and
measured a 12 mph gain in top speed. But his original canopy was
probably draggier than an RV-8 canopy (more bulbous canopy), and he
greatly reduced the canopy height at the same time he made the
fastback mod. He also increased the slope of the front windscreen,
and came up with a way to seal the canopy skirt to keep cockpit air
from blowing out under the skirt (the escaping air will disturb the
airflow around the fuselage, and increase drag). The RV-8 fastback
mods I know about are much less of mod from an aerodynamic
perspective than the one Kent Pacer did.
I would expect that the two RV-8 fastback mods that I have seen
pictures of would produce no more than half the performance increase
that Kent Pacer found for his, i.e. 6 mph increase, or less.
Probably less.
A whole series of performance improvements can eventually add up -
Kent Pacer increased the top speed of his aircraft by 64 mph at 8,000
ft, with the only internal engine mod being a compression increase by
putting 160 hp pistons in the 150 hp O-320 (that mod was worth 2
mph). But each individual mod only added a small bit, and some
promising sounding mods actually reduced the speed. Kent Pacer's
book, Speed With Economy is worth reading for anyone who is
interested in improving the performance of their aircraft.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Huffaker <bifft(at)xmission.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ellison TBI Troubles |
T_TM2_M_HEADER_IN_MSG autolearn=disabled version=3.0.3
On Thu, 14 Jul 2005, Greg Grigson wrote:
> I've got an O-360 with one Lightspeed and one Mag, The
> Ellison EFS 4-5 with Vans air box, turning the big 85
> pitch Sensenich metal prop. With aggressive leaning I
> can get the RPM others on the list report (about 2200
> RPM). It just seems toooooo lean.
>
> Jim Ellison says just lean it until it runs smooth at
> full throttle and takeoff. This has the A&Ps here
> scratching thier heads as this is a totally different
> procedure than what they are familiar with. I don't
> want to damage my engine or the test pilot on the
> first flight.
>
Have an Ellison on a O-360 in the Starduster, it behaves just as you
describe. I never thought of it as a problem as all my flight training
took place at 4500ft and above, so leaning before takeoff was normal.
Full rich is used for start only, as soon as the engine is running, back
to about half so it is running smooth
I do find that I need to do a full throttle runup to lean the engine
correctly, or I don't get full power.
Brian Huffaker, DSWL (bifft(at)xmission.com)
RV-8A 80091 Riviting mid-cabin covers.
1/4 Starduster II N23UT flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan(at)hotmail.com> |
I sent this question a couple of days ago but it must have been lost in the
ether:
Is there any reason why NOT to use LPS-1 for rod-end bearing lubrication?
Thanks,
Amit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com> |
> Is there any reason why NOT to use LPS-1 for rod-end bearing lubrication?
No, except that it doesn't provide much lubrication. I've used LPS 1 and 3
for many years (30) but have not been really happy with either. I wonder if
Van has a suggestion? I just spent a nice couple of hours with Bruce and
Tom trapped by the weather but did not think to ask them about this. I've
been wondering the same thing.
I've been using SuperLube almost exclusively for most of my fine (light)
lubricating needs for the last several years and think it is a great
solution. Cheap and works great for the intended purpose.
http://www.super-lube.com/
Dave,
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hull, Don" <Donald.C.Hull(at)nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | How are you keeping the water out of an RV6/7 "Tip-Up"???? |
I was hoping for a photo of the installation. You know...a picture is worth
a thousand words. Thanks, anyway. Don
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ed Anderson
Subject: Re: RV-List: How are you keeping the water out of an RV6/7
"Tip-Up"????
No, I don't Don. Just not one of those "exciting" things that it would
occur to me to take a photo of {:>) Its been a few years ago, but seems
like I found the shape/size I wanted looking in the JCWhitney auto catalog
which had a page or two with numerous types of seals.
Ed A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
| Subject: | Closing tail dragger RV8 gear boxes. |
Thanks all - I gather the consensus is to make the 802C junction removable.
I'll cut 802C into three pieces - a long center section which shall be
removable, bolted onto the angle, the top and bottom sections will be
riveted. The junction will be via doublers with two lines of rivets and #6
screws on nutplates to guarantee a solid mechanical continuity.
Michele
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)
> Sent: Friday, July 15, 2005 2:15 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Closing tail dragger RV8 gear boxes.
>
>
>
> I did just as you suggested at the behest of an award winning RV-8 guy
> that said if he had to do one thing over, he would make this mod.
> Everything goes into and out of those damn gear towers.
>
> Best
> Mike
> http://www2.mstewart.net:8080/super8/interesting.htm
>
> click on gear tower mod.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; rv8-list(at)matronics.com; RV-8(at)yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RV-List: Closing tail dragger RV8 gear boxes.
>
>
> Guys =96 I am currently building the RV8 tail dragger gear boxes.
> Closing the
> gear box, i.e. attaching the cover (802C) onto the sides (802 A & B),
> calls
> for AN470 rivets. Once closed, getting inside the gear box is sort of
> hard.
> Any of you guys have experience with replacing the rivets with screws
> (#6
> screws should do it) so that the cover could be removable?
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Michele Delsol
>
> RV8 - Fuselage
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dale Mitchell <dfm4290(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Inter cylinder baffles |
Are the inter cylinder baffles on a lycoming O-360
engine necessary?
Dale Mitchell
RV-8A
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <fablef(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Electrical Tools-Wiring Supplies-Harnesses and More |
Hi Everyone,
With Matt Dralle's permission, I wanted to let everyone on the list know that Affordable
Panels has added electrical tools, electrical supplies, wiring harnesses
and more to our inventory. We have some of the lowest prices on everything
from tools, terminals, connectors, wire, electroluminescent lighting, etc.
Our wiring harnesses for all Trutrak Autopilots are available in "Standard" and
"Wing Root Disconnect" form, and we also offer harnesses for the Dynon EFIS,
Flightcom and many others at the very best prices.
Our full page catalog will be out in a couple of weeks. In the mean time, anyone
interested can download the electrical portion of our catalog here.
http://www.affordablepanels.com/electrical.htm
All electrical orders placed on-line or faxed with a total above $175.00 will ship
free via UPS GROUND.
Best Regards,
Fabian Lefler
www.affordablepanels.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PeterHunt1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | How are you keeping water out of a 6/7-A tip-up? |
I made up three (3) shallow trays, like long, narrow (about 2.5") ice cube
trays. I fastened the forward side of each tray with screws and nutplates to
the sub panel. The slightly longer center tray over my radio stack tilts
slightly to the right. If it fills, the run-over spills over into the right tray
(which, because of the fuselage curvature, also tilts to the right). The left
tray tilts slightly to the left. You may add sponges to each tray which absorb
a lot of water. Neatly constructed and nicely painted the arrangement looks
good. Further, at a show the trays can easily be unscrewed and removed if you
wish.
I have a Garmin 530 and much more to protect.
Pete in Clearwater
RV-6, N216PH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV10-List: no match drill |
Read plans, measure, cut, smooth edges, measure..re-read plans (both sets),
re-measure, mark, punch, drill....OH sorry.... I was thinking of the first
10 or 12 steps of the HRII program before the first debar. 8*) KABONG Do
Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: no match drill
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Russell Daves"
>
> Ream, deburr, dimple, cleco, rivet.
>
> Russ Daves
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bradley Kidder <sparksnmagic(at)usa.net> |
| Subject: | F O R S A L E - RV-6 Empennage Kit |
Z-USANET-MsgId: XID705JgPmyN0447X31
1.34 GAPPY_SUBJECT Subject: contains G.a.p.p.y-T.e.x.t
For Sale:
Pre-drilled RV-6/6A empennage kit. Includes construction manual, preview
plans, and optional electric trim kit.
Some riveting done, perhaps 15%.
Asking price is $950 (paid $1435 7/98).
Absolutely undamaged and safely stored.
Located in Fort Smith, Arkansas.
Pictures available.
><((((=BA>`=B7.=B8=B8.=B7=B4=AF`=B7.=B8.=B7=B4=AF`=B7...=B8><((((=BA>
=B7=B4=AF`=B7.=B8.=B7=B4=AF`=B7.=B8.=B7=B4=AF`=B7.. ><((((=BA>`=B7.=B8=B8.=B7=B4=AF`=B7.=B8.=B7=B4=AF`=B7...=B8><((((=BA>
Brad Kidder .=B7=B4=AF`=B7...=B8><((((=BA>
N188FW AA-1 #124 "Hawg One"
AOPA (ASN/KSLG) - EAA - Angel Flight
.=B7=B4=AF`=B7.. ><((((=BA>
. , . .=B7=B4=AF`=B7.=B8.=B7=B4=AF`=B7.=B8.=B7=B4=AF`=B7.. ><((((=BA>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Fenstermacher" <dfenstermacher(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | solo riveting of leading edges |
Has anyone been successful in solo riveting the forward most rivets of the leading
edges.
My rivet partner is AWOL (Actually he is TDY for 3 months).
I know it CAN be done, but has anyone done it without any "happy faces".
If so, tips/tricks?
Thanks all,
Dave
David Fenstermacher
dfenstermacher(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg(at)snowcrest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: solo riveting of leading edges |
I do it every day on the tanks.....a few times on leading edges as well.
Just cleco it together and then stand it up on end with the rib flanges up.
Then you can just set your bucking bar flat on the rib and focus your
attention on the gun. As long as the gun is held straight and you dont
overpower the bucking bar you will be good. Also...try to really feather the
gun up to power slowly...much better control. Short quick blasts of power
will give you more smiles that you care to see.
Good luck..
Evan Johnson
www.evansaviationproducts.com
(530)247-0375
(530)351-1776 cell
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Fenstermacher" <dfenstermacher(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: solo riveting of leading edges
>
> Has anyone been successful in solo riveting the forward most rivets of the
leading edges.
> My rivet partner is AWOL (Actually he is TDY for 3 months).
>
> I know it CAN be done, but has anyone done it without any "happy faces".
> If so, tips/tricks?
>
> Thanks all,
>
> Dave
>
>
> David Fenstermacher
> dfenstermacher(at)earthlink.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: solo riveting of leading edges |
I don't know exactly what rivets you are talking about, but since I have
riveted ALL but a half dozen singlehandedly on my 9A (not quickbuild,
80% done) I guess the answer is yes.
As far as tips, I would need to know what leading edge are you referring to?
Dick Tasker
David Fenstermacher wrote:
>
>Has anyone been successful in solo riveting the forward most rivets of the leading
edges.
>My rivet partner is AWOL (Actually he is TDY for 3 months).
>
>I know it CAN be done, but has anyone done it without any "happy faces".
>If so, tips/tricks?
>
>Thanks all,
>
>Dave
>
>
>David Fenstermacher
>dfenstermacher(at)earthlink.net
>
----
Please Note:
No trees were destroyed in the sending of this message. We do concede, however,
that a significant number of electrons may have been temporarily inconvenienced.
----
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: solo riveting of leading edges |
On 16 Jul 2005, at 11:34, David Fenstermacher wrote:
>
>
> Has anyone been successful in solo riveting the forward most rivets
> of the leading edges.
> My rivet partner is AWOL (Actually he is TDY for 3 months).
>
> I know it CAN be done, but has anyone done it without any "happy
> faces".
> If so, tips/tricks?
>
I riveted the leading edge skins to the ribs on my RV-8, without any
help, and the results were pretty close to perfect. You just need to
be careful, be sure the gun is well centered on the rivet, and be
prepared to release the trigger at the first sign that something
isn't right. It wasn't easy though.
I had done most of the riveting to this point by myself, only using a
helper in spots where it simply wasn't possible to reach the gun and
bucking bar at the same time. So I was relatively practised at
riveting solo. If you are not comfortable with solo riveting in
difficult spots, this might not the place to learn.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: solo riveting of leading edges |
I did my fuel tanks and leading edges solo, but had a couple of minor
smilies that disappeared during the paint process.
No tips, but I'm sure the swivel head flush rivet set would have helped.
The biggest problem I had was bruising on my upper arm near the armpit,
where it was hitting the tank while I reached in with the the bucking bar.
Amazing how a small impact, multiplied by several hundred times, can give
you quite a brusie.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Fenstermacher" <dfenstermacher(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: solo riveting of leading edges
>
>
> Has anyone been successful in solo riveting the forward most rivets of the
> leading edges.
> My rivet partner is AWOL (Actually he is TDY for 3 months).
>
> I know it CAN be done, but has anyone done it without any "happy faces".
> If so, tips/tricks?
>
> Thanks all,
>
> Dave
>
>
> David Fenstermacher
> dfenstermacher(at)earthlink.net
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg(at)snowcrest.net> |
| Subject: | Predator corvette |
Any of you guys know what became of the corvette conversion engine that was out
there for a while? It was huge amounts of power with a reduction gear....and
air conditioning. He was supposed to be building a firewall forward for the RV
10. Obviously Vans did not approve, but it was intriguing...........Before you
start flaming, I'm not really planning such a thing, but this is experimental
aviation after all. It seemed like a good direction for maybe the guys with
the Stewart mustangs or other such things.
Just curious,
Evan Johnson
www.evansaviationproducts.com
(530)247-0375
(530)351-1776 cell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Predator corvette |
Evan and Megan Johnson wrote:
>
>Any of you guys know what became of the corvette conversion engine that was out
there for a while? It was huge amounts of power with a reduction gear....and
air conditioning. He was supposed to be building a firewall forward for the RV
10. Obviously Vans did not approve, but it was intriguing...........Before you
start flaming, I'm not really planning such a thing, but this is experimental
aviation after all. It seemed like a good direction for maybe the guys with
the Stewart mustangs or other such things.
>Just curious,
>Evan Johnson
>www.evansaviationproducts.com
>(530)247-0375
>(530)351-1776 cell
>
The big thing that jumped out at me when I read the big 'spread' was the
gross inconsistency in numbers throughout the article. Weights were
highly suspect, but fuel burn/hp numbers were downright unbelievable.
I wouldn't be surprised if an aluminum V-8 could be made to work in the
-10 but I wouldn't trust that guy to do it because of his unbelievable
claims.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | solo riveting of leading edges |
>
> I know it CAN be done, but has anyone done it without any "happy
> faces". If so, tips/tricks?
I did most of my wings solo...and "roger" on the bruised armpits. The trick
with the leading edges was to put the things in the cradle and then get
right up on the table with the cradle and contort to all sorts of positions.
It was not a pleasant experience, nor were all my leading edge rivets
perfect. I might've drilled out one or two; I might've said 'good enough' to
some others. Can't imagine doing it without the swivel flush head set, tho
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BBreckenridge(at)att.net |
| Subject: | RE: RV / Long-EZ collision |
1.25 RCVD_NUMERIC_HELO Received: contains an IP address used for HELO
Beautifully done. Grabs the heart real good. Thank you... My thoughts and prayers
go to his family at their (and our) loss.
Bruce
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jerry Hansen
Subject: RV / Long-EZ collision
With regard to the RV - Long-EZ mid-air collision last weekend, there is
a
remarkable video that has been posted, commemorating the canard aviator.
It
shows a bit of the formation flight work of which they were all so
proud.
http://www.GlassOvercast.com/video/jayblum.wmv
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Predator corvette |
>
>Any of you guys know what became of the corvette conversion engine that was
>out there for a while? It was huge amounts of power with a reduction
>gear....and air conditioning. He was supposed to be building a firewall
>forward for the RV 10. Obviously Vans did not approve, but it was
>intriguing...........Before you start flaming, I'm not really planning such
>a thing, but this is experimental aviation after all. It seemed like a good
>direction for maybe the guys with the Stewart mustangs or other such
>things.
>Just curious,
>Evan Johnson
>www.evansaviationproducts.com
>(530)247-0375
>(530)351-1776 cell
I googled it and came up with nothing. Maybe they disappeared like most of
the vaporware engine gurus.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51 yes, air conditioning would be nice!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rv6n6r(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: RV-Linst: Predator Corvette |
1.25 RCVD_NUMERIC_HELO Received: contains an IP address used for HELO
> Any of you guys know what became of the corvette conversion engine
> that was out there for a while?
[snip]
I don't know about the "Predator" (in fact I know pretty much nothing about auto
engine conversions) but up at Arlington I saw a beautiful
'homebuilt' based on a Republic Seabee fuselage (I know "beautiful Seabee" sounds like an oxymoron but its true!) The engine is a Robinson Conversion LS-6 Corvette with 405 HP and a four bladed MT propeller. Sounds like too much for an RV-10 and I'm sure not recommending it, just offering the info. Anyway I found a website that has some in-progress photos, http://www.republicseabee.com/Seabeenews.html. Not too much there but they say will be updated soon. Just FYI.
Randall Henderson
RV-6
www.edt.com/rhproject
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vic Jacko" <vicwj(at)earthlink.net> |
List, what are the restrictions on the use of nylon ties in the engine compartment?
Other than the exhaust system where else can they "not or should not" be used due
to heat?
Thanks,
Vic
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vic Jacko" <vicwj(at)earthlink.net> |
I am in need of a primer system for a Lyc 0-235/ 0-320 or 0-360 engine.
Need all firewall forward components to include clamps.
Check the hanger parts bin and let me know.
Vic
________________________________________________________________________________
RV-8 list RV List
| From: | Ed OConnor <Edwardoconnor(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | PSS AOA Flap Position Sensor |
Does anyone on the list happen to have a picture of the installation of
the PSS flap position sensor switch on an RV-8. I have been pondering
just how to mount this little micro switch somewhere on the flap
actuator bar. If no pictures, maybe a good description will do it.
RV-8/Sandy Creek Airpark/Panama City FL/Mounting wings and tail
feathers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | alan(at)reichertech.com |
Looks like I get to order some new pieces next week. :-(
While trying to assemble V-702/V-704/V-705 on an RV-8 emp, I keep peening
over the rivets rather than making a nice level shop head. Any clues what
I"m doing wrong?
Gun is a 3X, 45PSI, offset. It sure looks like I'm driving it straight,
but I'm obviously not doing something properly. Drilling out the last one
ended up putting a badly oblong hole in the pieces, so they are now trash.
--
Alan Reichert
Priv, Inst, SEL
RV-8 N927AR (reserved)
Prepping Horizontal/Vertical Stabilizers for Assembly (I thought....)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Huffaker <bifft(at)xmission.com> |
| Subject: | solo riveting of leading edges |
T_TM2_M_HEADER_IN_MSG autolearn=disabled version=3.0.3
On Sat, 16 Jul 2005, Bob Collins wrote:
>
>>
>> I know it CAN be done, but has anyone done it without any "happy
>> faces". If so, tips/tricks?
>
> perfect. I might've drilled out one or two; I might've said 'good enough' to
> some others. Can't imagine doing it without the swivel flush head set, tho
>
Just to post a different opinion, I find it hard to use the swivel head
solo. If the rivit isn't precisely centered, it can let the rivit bounce
out of the hole and not set flush. Much prefer the wider flat head set
for solo riviting.
Also did my leading edges solo, wasn't too much more difficult than
anything else. Do most of the rivits in the cradle, than take it out just
for the ones where the cradle is in the way.
Brian Huffaker, DSWL (bifft(at)xmission.com)
RV-8A 80091 Riviting mid cabin cover platenuts.
1/4 Starduster II N23UT flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Bending Rivets |
Hi Alan,
There is a strong possibility that you might be using the wrong (too long)
rivet length.
Double check the call out rivet size. Mock up some scrap sample parts using
the same thicknesses of materials and try using different (shorter rivets).
The practice will be good and examining the results should be at least
somewhat educational. You will find that you can develop a good eye for
rivet sizes and related riveting conditions this way without damaging the
pricy bits.
It will give you something to do while waiting for parts.{[;-)
Go easy,
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: <alan(at)reichertech.com>
Subject: RV-List: Bending Rivets
>
>
> Looks like I get to order some new pieces next week. :-(
>
> While trying to assemble V-702/V-704/V-705 on an RV-8 emp, I keep peening
> over the rivets rather than making a nice level shop head. Any clues what
> I"m doing wrong?
>
> Gun is a 3X, 45PSI, offset. It sure looks like I'm driving it straight,
> but I'm obviously not doing something properly. Drilling out the last one
> ended up putting a badly oblong hole in the pieces, so they are now trash.
>
> --
> Alan Reichert
> Priv, Inst, SEL
> RV-8 N927AR (reserved)
> Prepping Horizontal/Vertical Stabilizers for Assembly (I thought....)
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
Typically bent rivets are a sign of them just being too long. Another
possibiliyt (albeit not as usual as the long rivet) is the bucking bar being
held at a slight angle, though this just usually results in a tilted buck
tail/shop head. I'd probably suspect the long rivet thing myself, but with
an offset everything is more difficult. As stated before, you about have to
have 2 people to make an offset set work well.
Just my 2 cents after building a couple of these things!
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
alan(at)reichertech.com
Subject: RV-List: Bending Rivets
Looks like I get to order some new pieces next week. :-(
While trying to assemble V-702/V-704/V-705 on an RV-8 emp, I keep peening
over the rivets rather than making a nice level shop head. Any clues what
I"m doing wrong?
Gun is a 3X, 45PSI, offset. It sure looks like I'm driving it straight,
but I'm obviously not doing something properly. Drilling out the last one
ended up putting a badly oblong hole in the pieces, so they are now trash.
--
Alan Reichert
Priv, Inst, SEL
RV-8 N927AR (reserved)
Prepping Horizontal/Vertical Stabilizers for Assembly (I thought....)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Perkinson" <bobperk(at)bellsouth.net> |
I dont recall having to use an offset to get these 3 pieces together, there
was enough flex in there to use a straight set. You might want to give Van
s a call and see if you could use a bolt in the one hole that is too large,
unless of course the edge clearance is not large enough. That might save
you some $$$ plus shipping and handling.
Bob Perkinson
Hendersonville, TN.
RV9A N658RP Reserved
If nothing changes
Nothing changes
Looks like I get to order some new pieces next week. :-(
While trying to assemble V-702/V-704/V-705 on an RV-8 emp, I keep peening
over the rivets rather than making a nice level shop head. Any clues what
I"m doing wrong?
Gun is a 3X, 45PSI, offset. It sure looks like I'm driving it straight,
but I'm obviously not doing something properly. Drilling out the last one
ended up putting a badly oblong hole in the pieces, so they are now trash.
--
Alan Reichert
Priv, Inst, SEL
RV-8 N927AR (reserved)
Prepping Horizontal/Vertical Stabilizers for Assembly (I thought....)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List: Predator Corvette |
This outfit was in the Phoenix area (Chandler or Mesa maybe) but when we
were talking about it at the Cactus Flyin (Casa Grande) somebody from
Phoenix said he had packed up and went back to Boise. Sounded like they
thought he was quitting the project-for now at least.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A N872RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Fw: engine problem |
Subject: engine problem
Folks:
I've been riding the right-seat since first flight of a new RV-6 with an 0-320-E2D,
carburetted.
The engine has displayed a momentary burp-not really a miss- every single flight
when the power is reduced from full throttle. Even flying circuits, it will
do it at the top of every climb, as soon as the throttle is brought back from
full.
It does not do it when power is further reduced, as in setting up for a descent.
The engine has about nine hours since overhaul, including three hours on the
run-in stand, but has been sitting for quite a few years. It is equipped with
two magnetos.
It originally idled quite fast- about 800 rpm, but the idle speed adjusting
screw was backed out until it idled around 550-600 rpm, but, after the last landing
last week, the engine was shaking the airframe and we could see individual
blades going by out front, it was idling so slowly, less than 300rpm. Don't
know if this would contribute to anything, or if it indicates a temperature-related
problem with the installation. The propellor is two-bladed wood.
Other than those two characteristics, the engine runs very well, and puts out
lots of power for takeoff.
My first guess is something's wrong with the carburetor or its settings. It runs
on 100LL only, and the entire firewall-forward is very traditional, with nothing
exotic.
SCott in VAncouver
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | solo riveting of leading edges |
Yes, it can be done with suitable care, caution, etc. Incidence of "smilies"
should be no worse than elsewhere.
I clecoed the ribs and skin together, set the assembly on end on the floor,
and then sat in a chair to rivet. This way I could brace and/or support the
gun with my knee and leg and squeeze the trigger with one hand while guiding
the bar with the other hand. Some extra support to steady the gun really
helps. I used a wooden box to adjust the height of the work when working at
the end ribs.
Solo riveting is quite satisfying when you get used to it. You go at your
own pace, aren't worried about taking extra time for a particular rivet,
develop some extra "feel" for the gun-to-bar pressure to apply, etc.
Good luck and happy building.
Jim Oke
Wpg., MB
RV-6A
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> David Fenstermacher
> Sent: July 16, 2005 10:35 AM
> To: rv-list
> Subject: RV-List: solo riveting of leading edges
>
> -->
>
> Has anyone been successful in solo riveting the forward most
> rivets of the leading edges.
> My rivet partner is AWOL (Actually he is TDY for 3 months).
>
> I know it CAN be done, but has anyone done it without any
> "happy faces".
> If so, tips/tricks?
>
> Thanks all,
>
> Dave
>
>
> David Fenstermacher
> dfenstermacher(at)earthlink.net
>
>
> Photoshare, and much much more:
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard McBride" <rickrv8(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: engine problem |
Scott,
The O320-E2G I had in my -6 did the exact same thing. Every now and again, at
no particular common point in a flight the engine would just seem to hesitate
for a split second. It never did it on take off or in low throttle descent.
Adjustments to the carb made no difference. My engine had 1700 hours TT with
no overhaul when I first flew the -6. It did the hesitation thing for the 300
hours I flew the airplane before I had the engine remanufactured. After the
reman it still continued to do the same thing. I sold the plane after about 500
hours and never did find a solution. I also had a wood prop and only used
100LL.
Rick McBride
----- Original Message -----
From: Scott Jackson<mailto:jayeandscott(at)telus.net>
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2005 2:10 PM
Subject: RV-List: Fw: engine problem
Subject: engine problem
Folks:
I've been riding the right-seat since first flight of a new RV-6 with an 0-320-E2D,
carburetted.
The engine has displayed a momentary burp-not really a miss- every single flight
when the power is reduced from full throttle. Even flying circuits, it will
do it at the top of every climb, as soon as the throttle is brought back from
full.
It does not do it when power is further reduced, as in setting up for a descent.
The engine has about nine hours since overhaul, including three hours on the
run-in stand, but has been sitting for quite a few years. It is equipped with
two magnetos.
It originally idled quite fast- about 800 rpm, but the idle speed adjusting
screw was backed out until it idled around 550-600 rpm, but, after the last
landing last week, the engine was shaking the airframe and we could see individual
blades going by out front, it was idling so slowly, less than 300rpm. Don't
know if this would contribute to anything, or if it indicates a temperature-related
problem with the installation. The propellor is two-bladed wood.
Other than those two characteristics, the engine runs very well, and puts out
lots of power for takeoff.
My first guess is something's wrong with the carburetor or its settings. It
runs on 100LL only, and the entire firewall-forward is very traditional, with
nothing exotic.
SCott in VAncouver
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: engine problem |
That does not sound encouraging.
Did you have the carb looked at?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard McBride" <rickrv8(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fw: engine problem
>
> Scott,
>
> The O320-E2G I had in my -6 did the exact same thing. Every now and
> again, at no particular common point in a flight the engine would just
> seem to hesitate for a split second. It never did it on take off or in
> low throttle descent. Adjustments to the carb made no difference. My
> engine had 1700 hours TT with no overhaul when I first flew the -6. It
> did the hesitation thing for the 300 hours I flew the airplane before I
> had the engine remanufactured. After the reman it still continued to do
> the same thing. I sold the plane after about 500 hours and never did find
> a solution. I also had a wood prop and only used 100LL.
>
> Rick McBride
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Scott Jackson<mailto:jayeandscott(at)telus.net>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2005 2:10 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Fw: engine problem
>
>
> >
>
>
> Subject: engine problem
>
>
> Folks:
> I've been riding the right-seat since first flight of a new RV-6 with
> an 0-320-E2D, carburetted.
> The engine has displayed a momentary burp-not really a miss- every
> single flight when the power is reduced from full throttle. Even flying
> circuits, it will do it at the top of every climb, as soon as the throttle
> is brought back from full.
> It does not do it when power is further reduced, as in setting up for a
> descent.
> The engine has about nine hours since overhaul, including three hours
> on the run-in stand, but has been sitting for quite a few years. It is
> equipped with two magnetos.
> It originally idled quite fast- about 800 rpm, but the idle speed
> adjusting screw was backed out until it idled around 550-600 rpm, but,
> after the last landing last week, the engine was shaking the airframe and
> we could see individual blades going by out front, it was idling so
> slowly, less than 300rpm. Don't know if this would contribute to anything,
> or if it indicates a temperature-related problem with the installation.
> The propellor is two-bladed wood.
> Other than those two characteristics, the engine runs very well, and
> puts out lots of power for takeoff.
> My first guess is something's wrong with the carburetor or its
> settings. It runs on 100LL only, and the entire firewall-forward is very
> traditional, with nothing exotic.
> SCott in VAncouver
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: engine problem |
What I'm wondering is what happens in the carburetor when the power is
brought back from full; i.e. is there another circuit or pathway in the
carburetor that comes into play?
Perhaps that circuit is not as full of fuel as it should be, and it takes
that moment-during which the engine stumbles-to get the fuel flowing.
Coming back from full power shouldn't make any difference to the ignition
system.
I'll have to dive into my stack of LPM magazines, I think there's an article
on the inner workings of the carbs we use somewhere. Maybe the Skyranch
Engineering Manual, that's around here somewhere too.
Scott
Scott
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard McBride" <rickrv8(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fw: engine problem
>
> Scott,
>
> The O320-E2G I had in my -6 did the exact same thing. Every now and
> again, at no particular common point in a flight the engine would just
> seem to hesitate for a split second. It never did it on take off or in
> low throttle descent. Adjustments to the carb made no difference. My
> engine had 1700 hours TT with no overhaul when I first flew the -6. It
> did the hesitation thing for the 300 hours I flew the airplane before I
> had the engine remanufactured. After the reman it still continued to do
> the same thing. I sold the plane after about 500 hours and never did find
> a solution. I also had a wood prop and only used 100LL.
>
> Rick McBride
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Scott Jackson<mailto:jayeandscott(at)telus.net>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2005 2:10 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Fw: engine problem
>
>
> >
>
>
> Subject: engine problem
>
>
> Folks:
> I've been riding the right-seat since first flight of a new RV-6 with
> an 0-320-E2D, carburetted.
> The engine has displayed a momentary burp-not really a miss- every
> single flight when the power is reduced from full throttle. Even flying
> circuits, it will do it at the top of every climb, as soon as the throttle
> is brought back from full.
> It does not do it when power is further reduced, as in setting up for a
> descent.
> The engine has about nine hours since overhaul, including three hours
> on the run-in stand, but has been sitting for quite a few years. It is
> equipped with two magnetos.
> It originally idled quite fast- about 800 rpm, but the idle speed
> adjusting screw was backed out until it idled around 550-600 rpm, but,
> after the last landing last week, the engine was shaking the airframe and
> we could see individual blades going by out front, it was idling so
> slowly, less than 300rpm. Don't know if this would contribute to anything,
> or if it indicates a temperature-related problem with the installation.
> The propellor is two-bladed wood.
> Other than those two characteristics, the engine runs very well, and
> puts out lots of power for takeoff.
> My first guess is something's wrong with the carburetor or its
> settings. It runs on 100LL only, and the entire firewall-forward is very
> traditional, with nothing exotic.
> SCott in VAncouver
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Knicholas2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: engine problem |
In a message dated 7/17/2005 11:12:19 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
jayeandscott(at)telus.net writes:
Folks:
I've been riding the right-seat since first flight of a new RV-6 with an
0-320-E2D, carburetted.
The engine has displayed a momentary burp-not really a miss- every single
flight when the power is reduced from full throttle. Even flying circuits, it
will do it at the top of every climb, as soon as the throttle is brought back
from full.
I have the same problem in my 0-320 E2D. I posted a similar message here
several months ago so you might do an archive search under my name or "engine
hic-up" to read the responses.
Several people did respond and nobody had a good answer. One of our fellow
listers from Lycoming suggested that a different carb jet might fix the
problem. I still get that "pucker" when my engine hic-ups and it is annoying
as
hell.
I did notice that it seems to occur less often if I leave the fuel pump on
through a climb and until level. I let the pump run at level for a moment
before I turn it off and reduce throttle.
Several people said that it is almost "normal" and not to worry about it.
Easier said than when the darn thing burbs when I am over water....
Kim Nicholas
RV9A
Seattle (with lots of water around....)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denis Walsh <denis.walsh(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: solo riveting of leading edges |
I did most of the riveting on my six A solo. Certainly the tanks,
and leading edge of wings, and the whole tail. I started getting
some help with the flat skins on the wings, and a few places on the
fuse. The secret to solo riveting is to first fix the piece. Don't
ever try to rivet a tank (or anything else) which is loose. nail it
down solid in a position where you can get at both sides. Good
advice here from Jim Oke.
So I can vouch that it can be done. That said, I have, in the 12
years since, helped a lot of people rivet RVs. It can go a lot
faster, and is certainly a lot easier. Almost any riveting task is
easier with help.
If you can get to an EAA meeting or find another RV builder/flyer in
your area, it is very easy to recruit a helper, and most who are
builders or have built an RV will be adequate or at least easy to
train. I was able to train all my kids, the neighbor and my wife
well enough to get some of the tough fuse rivets and flat wing ones.
Most builders benefit from forging on when the building urge is hot.
Better to trip someone walking down the street, and train them to
buck than to temporarily abandon the project.
Just one man's opinion.
Denis Walsh
On Jul 17, 2005, at 11:25 AM, Jim Oke wrote:
>
> Yes, it can be done with suitable care, caution, etc. Incidence of
> "smilies"
> should be no worse than elsewhere.
>
> I clecoed the ribs and skin together, set the assembly on end on
> the floor,
> and then sat in a chair to rivet. This way I could brace and/or
> support the
> gun with my knee and leg and squeeze the trigger with one hand
> while guiding
> the bar with the other hand. Some extra support to steady the gun
> really
> helps. I used a wooden box to adjust the height of the work when
> working at
> the end ribs.
>
> Solo riveting is quite satisfying when you get used to it. You go
> at your
> own pace, aren't worried about taking extra time for a particular
> rivet,
> develop some extra "feel" for the gun-to-bar pressure to apply, etc.
>
> Good luck and happy building.
>
> Jim Oke
> Wpg., MB
> RV-6A
>
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
>> David Fenstermacher
>> Sent: July 16, 2005 10:35 AM
>> To: rv-list
>> Subject: RV-List: solo riveting of leading edges
>>
>> -->
>>
>> Has anyone been successful in solo riveting the forward most
>> rivets of the leading edges.
>> My rivet partner is AWOL (Actually he is TDY for 3 months).
>>
>> I know it CAN be done, but has anyone done it without any
>> "happy faces".
>> If so, tips/tricks?
>>
>> Thanks all,
>>
>> Dave
>>
>>
>> David Fenstermacher
>> dfenstermacher(at)earthlink.net
>>
>>
>> Photoshare, and much much more:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard McBride" <rickrv8(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: engine problem |
When I got the engine, I had the carb overhauled. I received another carb as part
of the reman job done by Lycoming. Both carbs did the same thing.
Rick
----- Original Message -----
From: Scott Jackson<mailto:jayeandscott(at)telus.net>
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2005 6:33 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fw: engine problem
That does not sound encouraging.
Did you have the carb looked at?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard McBride" <rickrv8(at)msn.com<mailto:rickrv8(at)msn.com>>
To: >
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fw: engine problem
>
> Scott,
>
> The O320-E2G I had in my -6 did the exact same thing. Every now and
> again, at no particular common point in a flight the engine would just
> seem to hesitate for a split second. It never did it on take off or in
> low throttle descent. Adjustments to the carb made no difference. My
> engine had 1700 hours TT with no overhaul when I first flew the -6. It
> did the hesitation thing for the 300 hours I flew the airplane before I
> had the engine remanufactured. After the reman it still continued to do
> the same thing. I sold the plane after about 500 hours and never did find
> a solution. I also had a wood prop and only used 100LL.
>
> Rick McBride
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Scott Jackson<mailto:jayeandscott(at)telus.net<mailto:jayeandscott(at)telus.net>>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com>
> Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2005 2:10 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Fw: engine problem
>
>
> >>
>
>
> Subject: engine problem
>
>
> Folks:
> I've been riding the right-seat since first flight of a new RV-6 with
> an 0-320-E2D, carburetted.
> The engine has displayed a momentary burp-not really a miss- every
> single flight when the power is reduced from full throttle. Even flying
> circuits, it will do it at the top of every climb, as soon as the throttle
> is brought back from full.
> It does not do it when power is further reduced, as in setting up for a
> descent.
> The engine has about nine hours since overhaul, including three hours
> on the run-in stand, but has been sitting for quite a few years. It is
> equipped with two magnetos.
> It originally idled quite fast- about 800 rpm, but the idle speed
> adjusting screw was backed out until it idled around 550-600 rpm, but,
> after the last landing last week, the engine was shaking the airframe and
> we could see individual blades going by out front, it was idling so
> slowly, less than 300rpm. Don't know if this would contribute to anything,
> or if it indicates a temperature-related problem with the installation.
> The propellor is two-bladed wood.
> Other than those two characteristics, the engine runs very well, and
> puts out lots of power for takeoff.
> My first guess is something's wrong with the carburetor or its
> settings. It runs on 100LL only, and the entire firewall-forward is very
> traditional, with nothing exotic.
> SCott in VAncouver
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Fw: engine problem |
> The engine has displayed a momentary burp-not really a miss- every
> single flight when the power is reduced from full throttle. Even flying
> circuits, it will do it at the top of every climb, as soon as the throttle
> is brought back from full.
> It does not do it when power is further reduced, as in setting up for a
> descent.
Does it do it whenever the throttle is reduced from full, or just after a
climb?
Is the plane equipped with a fuel flow meter?
Could there be any coupling between engine movement and throttle mechanism?
I.e., when the throttle is reduced the torque drops, the engine moves
slightly causing further unintended throttle reduction. Maybe a sticky
throttle cable? Long shot, but worth ruling out.
Alex Peterson
RV6A N66AP 636 hours
Maple Grove, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | V-List: Fw: engine problem |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin(at)mrmoisture.com> |
I am a non-builder of a 4 with a carb 0320 ~250 hours. Mine occasionally
burps as I power back in the pattern and every so often while powering
back during maneuvers. The builder, a 23 year NASCAR mechanic thought
the issue was related to an air flow / air pressure change during this
power setting and aircraft attitude.
Robin
RV-4
San Luis Obispo, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Alley <n320wt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: engine problem |
I would try leaning the mixture in the climb just before you level off and reduce
power. See if the the problem is more pronounced. Try to determine if the engine
is going excessively lean or rich. It sounds to me like you may have a bad
accelerator pump check valve or an air leak around the throttle shaft or pump
shaft. I've used starting fluid in a spray can to locate induction leaks. Spray
a little around the induction tubes and throttle shaft with the engine running
at idle and listen for the engine rpm to surge. Just stay clear of the prop!!!!!
BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT)
CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES
101 Caroline Circle
Hurricane, WV 25526
304-562-6800 home
How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "james frierson" <tn3639(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: engine problem |
My O-320, 160hp, wooden prop -6A does the same thing. I just got use to it
and pay it no mind.. My carb has some slack in the throttle shaft bushing
making me think that my be the problem. I am going to replace them at the
next annual and will keep you posted.
Scott
N162RV Flying
>From: Knicholas2(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Fw: engine problem
>Date: Sun, 17 Jul 2005 18:40:03 EDT
>
>
>In a message dated 7/17/2005 11:12:19 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
>jayeandscott(at)telus.net writes:
>
>Folks:
>I've been riding the right-seat since first flight of a new RV-6 with an
>0-320-E2D, carburetted.
>The engine has displayed a momentary burp-not really a miss- every single
>flight when the power is reduced from full throttle. Even flying circuits,
>it
>will do it at the top of every climb, as soon as the throttle is brought
>back
>from full.
>
>
>I have the same problem in my 0-320 E2D. I posted a similar message here
>several months ago so you might do an archive search under my name or
>"engine
>hic-up" to read the responses.
>
>Several people did respond and nobody had a good answer. One of our
>fellow
>listers from Lycoming suggested that a different carb jet might fix the
>problem. I still get that "pucker" when my engine hic-ups and it is
>annoying as
>hell.
>
>I did notice that it seems to occur less often if I leave the fuel pump on
>through a climb and until level. I let the pump run at level for a moment
>before I turn it off and reduce throttle.
>
>Several people said that it is almost "normal" and not to worry about it.
>Easier said than when the darn thing burbs when I am over water....
>
>Kim Nicholas
>RV9A
>Seattle (with lots of water around....)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Kraus" <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
| Subject: | Cabin heat from oil cooler (was: Exhaust Wrap Ceramic coating) |
In my 160hp O-320 RV-4, I Have the oil cooler blocked completely off all
winter, and I can barely get the oil temps up to 180F. I don't imagine
it would work well in my scenario....
Mike Kraus
RV-4 Flying
RV-10 Building
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com
Subject: RV-List: Cabin heat from oil cooler (was: Exhaust Wrap Ceramic
coating)
Has anyone used the oil cooler to heat their RV cabin? (as a stand alone
cabin heater with out an exhaust heat muff)
As Michael Sausen stated the Long-EZ guys do this, but their cabin is
smaller and may be better insulated. Is there enough heat coming off the
oil cooler at altitude to heat the cabin. In cruise at altitude the oil
temp is lower because the engine is at a lower power output and the
ambient air temps are cooler.
Cheers George
Re: Exhaust Wrap (Ceramic coating)
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
-->
George,
You're right about the heat muff. Not only is it probably not
practical but
I doubt they even could as it would probably be extremely
difficult to "mask"
an area inside the pipe. As far as the oil cooler for heating
goes, most of the
pusher crowd use this arrangement very well for cabin heat. With
them you
have to worry about getting the oil from the back of the aircraft
to the front
which introduces the possibility of a burst oil line in the
cockpit. With us
conventional crowd you could still keep the cooler in the engine
compartment
and build a shroud around it with a waste gate to divert overboard
when not in
use.
Probably not practical for smaller engines but if you have an
oil cooler anyway
it might not be much more work and it is a lot safer than taking
it off the
exhaust.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Tailcone
________________________________
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of
gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com
Subject: RV-List: Re: Exhaust Wrap (Ceramic coating)
Glen:
Your right, with ceramic coating will have little if any heat off
the heat muff
for cabin heat. This may be the single reason, if only one reason
for not doing
the coating thing, but it is very much an issue since we use
exhaust heat to
warm the cabin. Using oil cooler for heat, OK. How is that going
to work thermodynamically
BTU wise, not to mention the engineering of the system. My guess
is the 1000F off the exhaust pipe has more heating capacity than
the oil cooler
at 200-250F.
I would imagine having the coating start and stop in the heat muff
area would be
a no no. With the lack of continuity in coating you would have a
hot spot and
thermal stresses from different metal temps.
Cheers George
Match: #4 Message: #131849 Date: Jul 04, 2005 From: Glen
Matejcek
Subject: Exhaust Wrap (Ceramic coating)
Hi All-
I never took themro nor do I have any first hand experience with
ceramic coatings,
but something has occurred to me WRT the ceramic coated exhaust
thread. What
happens to your cabin heat if you put this coating on your
exhaust? I understand
that there is a difference between radiating IR and direct
conduction
/ heat transfer, but I have no idea what this implies for keeping
our toes warm
in the wintertime. Thoughts?
gm
Glen Matejcek
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: engine problem |
Brian Alley wrote:
>
>I would try leaning the mixture in the climb just before you level off and reduce
power. See if the the problem is more pronounced. Try to determine if the
engine is going excessively lean or rich. It sounds to me like you may have a
bad accelerator pump check valve or an air leak around the throttle shaft or pump
shaft. I've used starting fluid in a spray can to locate induction leaks.
Spray a little around the induction tubes and throttle shaft with the engine running
at idle and listen for the engine rpm to surge. Just stay clear of the
prop!!!!!
>
A much safer method to detect induction (and exhaust) leaks is to force
air (use a CLEAN shopvac connected to blow air) into the intake and
spray everything with really soapy water. You'd be amazed at the bubbles!!!
Linn
>
>
>BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT)
>CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES
>101 Caroline Circle
>Hurricane, WV 25526
>304-562-6800 home
>
>
>How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?
>
>
>
>
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ted Lumpkin <tlump51(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Vans Vent Kit on RV-4 |
I installed one of Van's little "barn door" RV-10 vents in my RV-4 this weekend.
I am very impressed with how much air it moves. It moves a LOT of air even
during taxi. I've never been a fan of NACA ducts because I don't like the way
they look. These vents are nice because when they are closed you can barely
tell they're there. They're very small; about 1.5" X 2 and I can't detect any
increase in noise when they're open or reduction in airspeed. It seems to seal
up well when its closed. The only drawback is you can't direct the air where
you want as with an eyeball vent.
At $18 bucks for two vents it's a pretty good deal to boot. For us early builders,
you get to take advantage of Van's computer controlled punch technology.
Everything goes together in a hurry. It took me about 4 hours to install one
vent including figuring out where I wanted it to go, cutting the hole in the
fuselage and priming the parts.
I installed mine on the right side of the fuselage below the cowl cheeks about
10" aft of the firewall. I may add a second one for the passenger.
Highly recommended.
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1121658189-58-627&browse=heatvent&product=10vent_kit
Ted Lumpkin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: engine problem |
There is no problem with leaving the electronic fuel pump all the time. It
is designed for continuous use. If that removes the stumble, why not leave
it on? I think peace of mind would be important also to any passenger.
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip Up It Flies
Teamwork: " A lot of people doing exactly what I say."
(Marketing exec., Citrix Corp.)
----- Original Message -----
From: <Knicholas2(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fw: engine problem
>
>
> In a message dated 7/17/2005 11:12:19 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> jayeandscott(at)telus.net writes:
>
> Folks:
> I've been riding the right-seat since first flight of a new RV-6 with an
> 0-320-E2D, carburetted.
> The engine has displayed a momentary burp-not really a miss- every single
> flight when the power is reduced from full throttle. Even flying
> circuits, it
> will do it at the top of every climb, as soon as the throttle is brought
> back
> from full.
>
>
> I have the same problem in my 0-320 E2D. I posted a similar message here
> several months ago so you might do an archive search under my name or
> "engine
> hic-up" to read the responses.
>
> Several people did respond and nobody had a good answer. One of our
> fellow
> listers from Lycoming suggested that a different carb jet might fix the
> problem. I still get that "pucker" when my engine hic-ups and it is
> annoying as
> hell.
>
> I did notice that it seems to occur less often if I leave the fuel pump on
> through a climb and until level. I let the pump run at level for a moment
> before I turn it off and reduce throttle.
>
> Several people said that it is almost "normal" and not to worry about it.
> Easier said than when the darn thing burbs when I am over water....
>
> Kim Nicholas
> RV9A
> Seattle (with lots of water around....)
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR" <Fred.Stucklen(at)UTCFuelCells.com> |
| Subject: | Re: engine problem |
Scott,
There are documented engine/carb issue of this nature in the archives.
What is the
10-##### number on your carb? Past issues have concluded that certain
10-####'s
carbs have a different bowl venting scheme that, for some reason, allows a
turbulence
to occur at different airspeed/throttle setting. The turbulence appears to
cause the
engine to run lean for a very short period (100-200 milliseconds). I don't
remember
the 10-####'s that cause this, but Van supplies engines with the correct
10-#### carb....
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV
Subject: engine problem
Folks:
I've been riding the right-seat since first flight of a new RV-6
with an 0-320-E2D,
carburetted.
The engine has displayed a momentary burp-not really a miss- every
single flight
when the power is reduced from full throttle. Even flying circuits, it
will
do it at the top of every climb, as soon as the throttle is brought
back from
full.
It does not do it when power is further reduced, as in setting up
for a descent.
The engine has about nine hours since overhaul, including three
hours on the
run-in stand, but has been sitting for quite a few years. It is
equipped with
two magnetos.
It originally idled quite fast- about 800 rpm, but the idle speed
adjusting
screw was backed out until it idled around 550-600 rpm, but, after the
last landing
last week, the engine was shaking the airframe and we could see
individual
blades going by out front, it was idling so slowly, less than 300rpm.
Don't
know if this would contribute to anything, or if it indicates a
temperature-related
problem with the installation. The propellor is two-bladed wood.
Other than those two characteristics, the engine runs very well, and
puts out
lots of power for takeoff.
My first guess is something's wrong with the carburetor or its
settings. It runs
on 100LL only, and the entire firewall-forward is very traditional,
with nothing
exotic.
SCott in VAncouver
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: engine problem |
Thanks to all of you for the valuable input.
The only observation that I can make right now is that leaving the electric
pump on does not help, as it would doing circuits.
I find what part number that carburetor is as soon as the cowlings are
pulled.
I think we are on the right track with the need to have the carburetor
modified to a different standard.
Others have emailed me off-list to let me know that their engines do this
also, so it would be nice to track down the fix for this behaviour.
Thanks again.
Scott
----- Original Message -----
From: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fw: engine problem
>
> There is no problem with leaving the electronic fuel pump all the time.
> It
> is designed for continuous use. If that removes the stumble, why not
> leave
> it on? I think peace of mind would be important also to any passenger.
>
> Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip Up It Flies
>
> Teamwork: " A lot of people doing exactly what I say."
> (Marketing exec., Citrix Corp.)
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Knicholas2(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Fw: engine problem
>
>
>>
>>
>> In a message dated 7/17/2005 11:12:19 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
>> jayeandscott(at)telus.net writes:
>>
>> Folks:
>> I've been riding the right-seat since first flight of a new RV-6 with an
>> 0-320-E2D, carburetted.
>> The engine has displayed a momentary burp-not really a miss- every
>> single
>> flight when the power is reduced from full throttle. Even flying
>> circuits, it
>> will do it at the top of every climb, as soon as the throttle is brought
>> back
>> from full.
>>
>>
>> I have the same problem in my 0-320 E2D. I posted a similar message
>> here
>> several months ago so you might do an archive search under my name or
>> "engine
>> hic-up" to read the responses.
>>
>> Several people did respond and nobody had a good answer. One of our
>> fellow
>> listers from Lycoming suggested that a different carb jet might fix the
>> problem. I still get that "pucker" when my engine hic-ups and it is
>> annoying as
>> hell.
>>
>> I did notice that it seems to occur less often if I leave the fuel pump
>> on
>> through a climb and until level. I let the pump run at level for a
>> moment
>> before I turn it off and reduce throttle.
>>
>> Several people said that it is almost "normal" and not to worry about
>> it.
>> Easier said than when the darn thing burbs when I am over water....
>>
>> Kim Nicholas
>> RV9A
>> Seattle (with lots of water around....)
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
Posting for a friend, aircraft is in Florida...
1999 RV-8, 930 TTAFE. Factory new Lycoming 360-A1A, Hartzell c/s, full IFR
panel including GX-50. Pictures at
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/9656/jeff.html $90k. Contact
Peter Branning, 941-955-1400, psbranning(at)branninglaw.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hull, Don" <Donald.C.Hull(at)nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | Fw: engine problem |
Scott,
This appears to be a common problem. If it were me, I would contact Mahlon
Russell at Mattituck. He's very active in the Lycoming Yahoo group as well
as Doug R's VAF Forums. He's very knowledgeable and helpful, plus he has a
TON of experience he's willing to share. You could probably post it on the
Lycoming group and have his answer the same day.
I regularly fly a C-172 with the O-320 E2D engine and have never noticed
this problem, but am interested in what you do to eliminate your problem.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Jackson
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fw: engine problem
Thanks to all of you for the valuable input.
The only observation that I can make right now is that leaving the electric
pump on does not help, as it would doing circuits.
I find what part number that carburetor is as soon as the cowlings are
pulled.
I think we are on the right track with the need to have the carburetor
modified to a different standard.
Others have emailed me off-list to let me know that their engines do this
also, so it would be nice to track down the fix for this behaviour. Thanks
again. Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Birkelbach <phil(at)petrasoft.net> |
| Subject: | Re: PSS AOA Flap Position Sensor |
I don't have one for the RV-8 but here is how I mounted it on my RV-7.
You maybe able to get some ideas from it.
http://www.myrv7.com/viewimage.php?pictureid=418
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB - Finishing Up
http://www.myrv7.com
Ed OConnor wrote:
>
>Does anyone on the list happen to have a picture of the installation of
>the PSS flap position sensor switch on an RV-8. I have been pondering
>just how to mount this little micro switch somewhere on the flap
>actuator bar. If no pictures, maybe a good description will do it.
>RV-8/Sandy Creek Airpark/Panama City FL/Mounting wings and tail
>feathers
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill" <n2faith2(at)cs.com> |
I'm new to the list and appreciate all the insight provided by everyone.
It's been very helpful in precluding some mistakes.
I inadvertently deleted the websites provided for ordering the reamers.
Would you please send the website info again?
Thanks for the help.
Bill
40423 Emp Complete
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Trotter <ptrotter(at)acm.org> |
I buy them from MSC.
www.mscdirect.com
Look for chucking reamers. They have lots of choices.
Paul
RV-8 82080
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill" <n2faith2(at)cs.com>
Subject: RV-List: Reamer
>
> I'm new to the list and appreciate all the insight provided by everyone.
> It's been very helpful in precluding some mistakes.
>
> I inadvertently deleted the websites provided for ordering the reamers.
> Would you please send the website info again?
>
> Thanks for the help.
>
> Bill
> 40423 Emp Complete
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)adelphia.net> |
Good sources of aircraft tools are these guys among several others.
My first choice is always to deal with those companies who are aviation
oriented and who support the various get-togethers like Oshkosh, Arlington,
Copperstate, etc. whenever possible. If you attend some of these events, you
will often see and meet the principles in these companies. They will often
go the extra mile to meet your needs.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A N872RV
Yuma, AZ
http://www.averytools.com
http://www.cleavelandtool.com
http://www.ustool.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Elevator Stiffeners |
Hi all,
I cut, primed and riveted in my elevator stiffeners over the weekend. On
bending the skins, I found that several of the stiffeners were fractionally long.
The bend is fine but there are a couple of little waves where the ends of
the stiffeners didn't give. On more carefully reading the plans, I missed the
notes where it says to trim the ends to specified lengths.
At any rate, it is clecoed together and looks fine. Is this really okay? I
am concerned about the ends rubbing on the skin.
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV-8, Empennage
San Ramon, California
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Stiffeners |
On 19 Jul 2005, at 24:23, MLWynn(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> I cut, primed and riveted in my elevator stiffeners over the
> weekend. On
> bending the skins, I found that several of the stiffeners were
> fractionally long.
> The bend is fine but there are a couple of little waves where the
> ends of
> the stiffeners didn't give. On more carefully reading the plans, I
> missed the
> notes where it says to trim the ends to specified lengths.
>
> At any rate, it is clecoed together and looks fine. Is this really
> okay? I
> am concerned about the ends rubbing on the skin.
>
I don't think anyone can predict whether this issue will eventually
lead to cracking or not. I think you've got three choices:
1. Stop, order new parts, and start over.
2. Finish the elevator, fly the aircraft, and if you get cracks,
build a new elevator.
3. Finish the elevator, and after you start flying order new parts
and build a replacement elevator.
I would go with option 2 or 3. Option 2 if you are happy with the
cosmetics of this elevator, and option 3 if the waves are bothering
you. Building a new elevator will go much more quickly in a few
years, when you are a more experienced builder.
Even if you get cracks after you start flying, this shouldn't be a
safety issue as long as you catch the problem before the cracks
become too large. You just need to pay close attention to this area.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted D. Hultzapple" <thultzap(at)rochester.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Oil cooler mounting |
I am building an 8A with Sam James cowling and cooling plenum. I am looking
for the best place to install an oil cooler. It looks like most people are
placing the oil cooler behind the No. 4 cylinder on the baffling. With the
Sam James plenum, my space is somewhat limited. Is there any reason that
No. 4 cylinder is preferred over No. 3 cylinder? It seems that there is
much more space behind No. 3. I could also mount the cooler on the
firewall, but things are a bit crowded there.
Ted
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard McBride" <rickrv8(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Oil cooler mounting |
Ted,
I mounted mine on the firewall behind #3. I used a larger cooler connected
to a 4" tube. The set up is similar to the one on Greg Hale's web site. My
oil temps have been in the 180 to 190 range on a 90 degree day.
Rick McBride
>From: "Ted D. Hultzapple" <thultzap(at)rochester.rr.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Oil cooler mounting
>Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2005 08:04:13 -0400
>
>
>
>I am building an 8A with Sam James cowling and cooling plenum. I am looking
>for the best place to install an oil cooler. It looks like most people are
>placing the oil cooler behind the No. 4 cylinder on the baffling. With the
>Sam James plenum, my space is somewhat limited. Is there any reason that
>No. 4 cylinder is preferred over No. 3 cylinder? It seems that there is
>much more space behind No. 3. I could also mount the cooler on the
>firewall, but things are a bit crowded there.
>Ted
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
SNIP*******There is no problem with leaving the electronic fuel pump all
the time. It is designed for continuous use. If that removes the
stumble, why not leave it on? I think peace of mind would be important
also to any passenger.
**********
> Folks:
> I've been riding the right-seat since first flight of a new RV-6 with
an
> 0-320-E2D, carburetted.
> The engine has displayed a momentary burp-not really a miss- every
single
> flight when the power is reduced from full throttle. Even flying
> circuits, it
> will do it at the top of every climb, as soon as the throttle is
brought
> back
> from full.***********
If you leave the boost pump on to mask the problem, what do you do when
the boost pump fails and the problem has unexpectedly worsened???????
Not such a great idea.
I had a similar problem with my RV-4, even after the carb was freshly
overhauled. Talking to the technicians at El Reno quickly identified
the problem... an incorrect nozzle... easily replaced in about 5 minutes
with the carb still installed. Problem was gone and never returned.
Vince
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Allen Fulmer" <afulmer(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Elevator Stiffeners |
If you are talking about the angled edge of the flanges hitting the opposite
skin, you could remove the clecos and reach inside with a small dremel
grinder and trim the reinforcing ribs a little.
Allen Fulmer
RV7 Wings (QB Fuse on hand)
N808AF reserved
Alexander City, AL
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kevin Horton
Subject: Re: RV-List: Elevator Stiffeners
On 19 Jul 2005, at 24:23, MLWynn(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> I cut, primed and riveted in my elevator stiffeners over the
> weekend. On
> bending the skins, I found that several of the stiffeners were
> fractionally long.
> The bend is fine but there are a couple of little waves where the
> ends of
> the stiffeners didn't give. On more carefully reading the plans, I
> missed the
> notes where it says to trim the ends to specified lengths.
>
> At any rate, it is clecoed together and looks fine. Is this really
> okay? I
> am concerned about the ends rubbing on the skin.
>
I don't think anyone can predict whether this issue will eventually
lead to cracking or not. I think you've got three choices:
1. Stop, order new parts, and start over.
2. Finish the elevator, fly the aircraft, and if you get cracks,
build a new elevator.
3. Finish the elevator, and after you start flying order new parts
and build a replacement elevator.
I would go with option 2 or 3. Option 2 if you are happy with the
cosmetics of this elevator, and option 3 if the waves are bothering
you. Building a new elevator will go much more quickly in a few
years, when you are a more experienced builder.
Even if you get cracks after you start flying, this shouldn't be a
safety issue as long as you catch the problem before the cracks
become too large. You just need to pay close attention to this area.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil cooler mounting |
Ted and Rick,
Which engine models do you have? Does your engine have jets spraying
oil on the piston bottoms?
IO-360s with jets spraying oil on the bottom of the pistons put a lot
more heat in the oil than O-360s without such jets. A cooler setup
that works on an O-360 might not be good enough for an IO-360.
Kevin Horton
On 19 Jul 2005, at 08:47, Richard McBride wrote:
>
> Ted,
>
> I mounted mine on the firewall behind #3. I used a larger cooler
> connected
> to a 4" tube. The set up is similar to the one on Greg Hale's web
> site. My
> oil temps have been in the 180 to 190 range on a 90 degree day.
>
> Rick McBride
>
>
>> From: "Ted D. Hultzapple" <thultzap(at)rochester.rr.com>
>> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: RV-List: Oil cooler mounting
>> Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2005 08:04:13 -0400
>>
>>
>>
>> I am building an 8A with Sam James cowling and cooling plenum. I
>> am looking
>> for the best place to install an oil cooler. It looks like most
>> people are
>> placing the oil cooler behind the No. 4 cylinder on the baffling.
>> With the
>> Sam James plenum, my space is somewhat limited. Is there any
>> reason that
>> No. 4 cylinder is preferred over No. 3 cylinder? It seems that
>> there is
>> much more space behind No. 3. I could also mount the cooler on the
>> firewall, but things are a bit crowded there.
>> Ted
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard McBride" <rickrv8(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil cooler mounting |
Kevin,
I have a 1200 hour IO360-A3B6D with the D removed. I believe that model
does have the oil jets but am not 100% certain. The oil cooler I used is
sized for a 540 engine. I pretty much copied Greg Hale's set up and am
quite pleased with the results. I also installed a butterfly valve in the
cooler plenum and accordingly, can easily adjust the oil temp.
Rick McBride
>From: Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil cooler mounting
>Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2005 10:13:50 -0400
>
>
>Ted and Rick,
>
>Which engine models do you have? Does your engine have jets spraying
>oil on the piston bottoms?
>
>IO-360s with jets spraying oil on the bottom of the pistons put a lot
>more heat in the oil than O-360s without such jets. A cooler setup
>that works on an O-360 might not be good enough for an IO-360.
>
>Kevin Horton
>
>On 19 Jul 2005, at 08:47, Richard McBride wrote:
>
> >
> > Ted,
> >
> > I mounted mine on the firewall behind #3. I used a larger cooler
> > connected
> > to a 4" tube. The set up is similar to the one on Greg Hale's web
> > site. My
> > oil temps have been in the 180 to 190 range on a 90 degree day.
> >
> > Rick McBride
> >
> >
> >> From: "Ted D. Hultzapple" <thultzap(at)rochester.rr.com>
> >> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >> Subject: RV-List: Oil cooler mounting
> >> Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2005 08:04:13 -0400
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> I am building an 8A with Sam James cowling and cooling plenum. I
> >> am looking
> >> for the best place to install an oil cooler. It looks like most
> >> people are
> >> placing the oil cooler behind the No. 4 cylinder on the baffling.
> >> With the
> >> Sam James plenum, my space is somewhat limited. Is there any
> >> reason that
> >> No. 4 cylinder is preferred over No. 3 cylinder? It seems that
> >> there is
> >> much more space behind No. 3. I could also mount the cooler on the
> >> firewall, but things are a bit crowded there.
> >> Ted
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: momentary burp |
By "incorrect nozzle" do you mean the main jet?
Scott
----- Original Message -----
From: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu>
Subject: RV-List: momentary burp
>
> SNIP*******There is no problem with leaving the electronic fuel pump all
> the time. It is designed for continuous use. If that removes the
> stumble, why not leave it on? I think peace of mind would be important
> also to any passenger.
> **********
>> Folks:
>> I've been riding the right-seat since first flight of a new RV-6 with
> an
>> 0-320-E2D, carburetted.
>> The engine has displayed a momentary burp-not really a miss- every
> single
>> flight when the power is reduced from full throttle. Even flying
>> circuits, it
>> will do it at the top of every climb, as soon as the throttle is
> brought
>> back
>> from full.***********
>
>
> If you leave the boost pump on to mask the problem, what do you do when
> the boost pump fails and the problem has unexpectedly worsened???????
> Not such a great idea.
>
> I had a similar problem with my RV-4, even after the carb was freshly
> overhauled. Talking to the technicians at El Reno quickly identified
> the problem... an incorrect nozzle... easily replaced in about 5 minutes
> with the carb still installed. Problem was gone and never returned.
>
> Vince
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Elevator Stiffeners |
On 6:21:41 2005-07-19 "Allen Fulmer" wrote:
> If you are talking about the angled edge of the flanges hitting the
> opposite skin, you could remove the clecos and reach inside with a
> small dremel grinder and trim the reinforcing ribs a little.
I would make it even easier... Reach in with a pair of tin-snips and trim
the corners off. Then just shoot some of your handy touch-up primer
(SW988, Marhyde, etc.) into a plastic cup and use a cotton swab or brush to
dab it on the exposed edges. Don't worry about any teeth-marks left by the
tinsnips, or any slight curve they leave on the cut edge. That part of the
stringer is so lightly loaded that neither of these will be problematic.
-Rob P
> Allen Fulmer
> RV7 Wings (QB Fuse on hand)
> N808AF reserved
> Alexander City, AL
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kevin Horton
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Elevator Stiffeners
>
>
> On 19 Jul 2005, at 24:23, MLWynn(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> >
> > Hi all,
> >
> > I cut, primed and riveted in my elevator stiffeners over the
> > weekend. On
> > bending the skins, I found that several of the stiffeners were
> > fractionally long.
> > The bend is fine but there are a couple of little waves where the
> > ends of
> > the stiffeners didn't give. On more carefully reading the plans, I
> > missed the
> > notes where it says to trim the ends to specified lengths.
> >
> > At any rate, it is clecoed together and looks fine. Is this really
> > okay? I
> > am concerned about the ends rubbing on the skin.
> >
>
> I don't think anyone can predict whether this issue will eventually
> lead to cracking or not. I think you've got three choices:
>
> 1. Stop, order new parts, and start over.
>
> 2. Finish the elevator, fly the aircraft, and if you get cracks,
> build a new elevator.
>
> 3. Finish the elevator, and after you start flying order new parts
> and build a replacement elevator.
>
> I would go with option 2 or 3. Option 2 if you are happy with the
> cosmetics of this elevator, and option 3 if the waves are bothering
> you. Building a new elevator will go much more quickly in a few
> years, when you are a more experienced builder.
>
> Even if you get cracks after you start flying, this shouldn't be a
> safety issue as long as you catch the problem before the cracks
> become too large. You just need to pay close attention to this area.
>
>
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Schreck" <ronschreck(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Seat Cushions |
Listers,
I bought a set of Van's RV-8 seat cushions and had them delivered to Abby at
Flightline Interiors for upholstering. They just arrived here last week and
Abby did a marvelous job. Unfortunately, they don't fit well. She used Van's
patterns to cut the upholstery and expertly covered the cushions as supplied
from Van's. The front and rear seat backs fit fine if they go all the way to
the floor, but then the seat cushions are too long (front to back). If I put
the seat cushions in first so they go all the way to the back support then
the back cushions, which now sit on top of the seat cushions, are too tall!
I emailed Vans and they promptly replied. Basically said that they covered
their RV-8 cushions as supplied and they fit fine. Sorry yours don't fit...period.
I called Abby and she couldn't be nicer. She said she has recently done several
RV-8 cushions from Vans but didn't know if anyone else has tried to fit
them in their airplane yet. She said she will call her other customers and see
if they have a problem. Regardless, she vowed to make them right.
A few questions for those of you who have purchased Van's RV-8 cushions:
1. Did you have to trim them in any way before covering?
2. Did you cut a hole for the crotch straps or route them in front of the
seat cushions?
3. Did you cut holes for the front seat belts or route them around the seat
back cushion.
4. Do your seat back cushions sit on top of the seat cushions or go all the
way to the cockpit floor?
5. Does your chewing gum loose it's flavor on the bedpost overnight? (er...
guess I'm out of questions.)
Thanks for the help Listers.
Ron Schreck
Painting
Panel Cutting/Wiring
Teeth Gnashing
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Seat Cushions |
I am 6'3" tall and needed to remove 2" from the height of the cushions, so
pilot height also comes into play, tall or short. This was in an RV-8a.
>
>Listers,
> I bought a set of Van's RV-8 seat cushions and had them delivered to
> Abby at Flightline Interiors for upholstering. They just arrived here
> last week and Abby did a marvelous job. Unfortunately, they don't fit
> well. She used Van's patterns to cut the upholstery and expertly covered
> the cushions as supplied from Van's. The front and rear seat backs fit
> fine if they go all the way to the floor, but then the seat cushions are
> too long (front to back). If I put the seat cushions in first so they
> go all the way to the back support then the back cushions, which now sit
> on top of the seat cushions, are too tall!
> I emailed Vans and they promptly replied. Basically said that they
> covered their RV-8 cushions as supplied and they fit fine. Sorry yours
> don't fit...period.
> I called Abby and she couldn't be nicer. She said she has recently
> done several RV-8 cushions from Vans but didn't know if anyone else has
> tried to fit them in their airplane yet. She said she will call her
> other customers and see if they have a problem. Regardless, she vowed to
> make them right.
> A few questions for those of you who have purchased Van's RV-8 cushions:
> 1. Did you have to trim them in any way before covering?
> 2. Did you cut a hole for the crotch straps or route them in front
> of the seat cushions?
> 3. Did you cut holes for the front seat belts or route them around
> the seat back cushion.
> 4. Do your seat back cushions sit on top of the seat cushions or go
> all the way to the cockpit floor?
> 5. Does your chewing gum loose it's flavor on the bedpost
> overnight? (er... guess I'm out of questions.)
>
>Thanks for the help Listers.
>
>Ron Schreck
>Painting
>Panel Cutting/Wiring
>Teeth Gnashing
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | luckymacy(at)comcast.net (lucky) |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Seat Cushions |
Hi Ron,
In short, yes, I have the same problem with my Van's RV8 seats which Abby also
covered for me. I haven't done anything about it yet. Still head scratching
but thanks for telling me in advance what Van's will say. They'll probably tell
me "first they heard of it" ;-)
The seat back cushions ARE designed to go all the way down to the floor and that
would be consistent with what Clevaland and other interior cushion designers
do.
I think that's what you want to do as well regardless of how you fix the problems.
Right now I have to really cram and squish the cushions to get them in their
more or less desired positions. They don't want to stay there.
For the pilot's seat bottom cushion, you have to mark a line for where Abby would
have slit the cushion for the crotch strap. Not needed for the back seat dut
to different design. Also, front seat belts will go around the pilot's back
support structure, not through it for me. Same as most other planes I have
seen.
I pretty much gave up on chewing gum. Hurts my jaws now a days.
Let me know what you end up doing.
-------------- Original message --------------
>
> I am 6'3" tall and needed to remove 2" from the height of the cushions, so
> pilot height also comes into play, tall or short. This was in an RV-8a.
>
>
> >
> >Listers,
> > I bought a set of Van's RV-8 seat cushions and had them delivered to
> > Abby at Flightline Interiors for upholstering. They just arrived here
> > last week and Abby did a marvelous job. Unfortunately, they don't fit
> > well. She used Van's patterns to cut the upholstery and expertly covered
> > the cushions as supplied from Van's. The front and rear seat backs fit
> > fine if they go all the way to the floor, but then the seat cushions are
> > too long (front to back). If I put the seat cushions in first so they
> > go all the way to the back support then the back cushions, which now sit
> > on top of the seat cushions, are too tall!
> > I emailed Vans and they promptly replied. Basically said that they
> > covered their RV-8 cushions as supplied and they fit fine. Sorry yours
> > don't fit...period.
> > I called Abby and she couldn't be nicer. She said she has recently
> > done several RV-8 cushions from Vans but didn't know if anyone else has
> > tried to fit them in their airplane yet. She said she will call her
> > other customers and see if they have a problem. Regardless, she vowed to
> > make them right.
> > A few questions for those of you who have purchased Van's RV-8 cushions:
> > 1. Did you have to trim them in any way before covering?
> > 2. Did you cut a hole for the crotch straps or route them in front
> > of the seat cushions?
> > 3. Did you cut holes for the front seat belts or route them around
> > the seat back cushion.
> > 4. Do your seat back cushions sit on top of the seat cushions or go
> > all the way to the cockpit floor?
> > 5. Does your chewing gum loose it's flavor on the bedpost
> > overnight? (er... guess I'm out of questions.)
> >
> >Thanks for the help Listers.
> >
> >Ron Schreck
> >Painting
> >Panel Cutting/Wiring
> >Teeth Gnashing
> >
> >
>
>
> Scott Bilinski
> Eng dept 305
> Phone (858) 657-2536
> Pager (858) 502-5190
>
>
>
>
>
>
Hi Ron,
In short, yes, I have the same problem with my Van's RV8 seats which Abby also
covered for me. I haven't done anything about it yet. Still head scratching but
thanks for telling me in advance what Van's will say. They'll probably tell
me "first they heard of it";-)
The seat back cushions ARE designed to go all the way down to the floor and that
would be consistent with what Clevaland and other interior cushion designers
do.
I think that's what you want to do as well regardless of how you fix the problems.
Right now I have to really cram and squish the cushions to get them in their
more or less desired positions. They don't want to stay there.
For the pilot's seat bottom cushion, you have to mark a line for where Abby would
have slit the cushion for the crotch strap. Not needed for the back seat dut
to different design. Also, front seat belts will go around the pilot's back
support structure, not through it for me. Same as most other planes I have seen.
Iprettymuch gave up on chewinggum.Hurts my jaws now a days.
Let me know what you end up doing.
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <BILINSKI@KYOCERA-WIRELESS.COM>
I am 6'3" tall and needed to remove 2" from the height of the cushions, so
pilot height also comes into play, tall or short. This was in an RV-8a.
-- RV-List message posted by: "Ron Schreck"
Listers,
I bought a set of Van's RV-8 seat cushions and had them delivered to
Abby at Flightline Interiors for upholstering. They just arrived here
last week and Abby did a marvelous job. Unfortunately, they don't fit
well. She used Van's patterns to cut the upholstery and expertly covered
the cushions as supplied from Van's. The front and rear seat backs fit
fine if they go all the way to the floor, but t
hen the seat cushions are
too long (front to back). If I put the seat cushions in first so they
go all the way to the back support then the back cushions, which now sit
on top of the seat cushions, are too tall!
I emailed Vans and they promptly replied. Basically said that they
covered their RV-8 cushions as supplied and they fit fine. Sorry yours
don't fit...period.
I called Abby and she couldn't be nicer. She said she has recently
done several RV-8 cushions from Vans but didn't know if anyone else has
tried to fit them in their airplane yet. She said she will call her
other customers and see if they have a problem. Regardless, she vowed to
make them right.
A few questions for those of you who have purchased Van's RV-8 cushions:
1. Did you have to trim them in any way before covering?
&
gt; 2. Did you cut a hole for the crotch straps or route them in front
of the seat cushions?
3. Did you cut holes for the front seat belts or route them around
the seat back cushion.
4. Do your seat back cushions sit on top of the seat cushions or go
all the way to the cockpit floor?
5. Does your chewing gum loose it's flavor on the bedpost
overnight? (er... guess I'm out of questions.)
Thanks for the help Listers.
Ron Schreck
Painting
Panel Cutting/Wiring
Teeth Gnashing
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
tures Navigator to browse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Oil cooler mounting |
Hi Ted- here's an option that should work for the James plenum- a friend
building a Mustang II with same plenum is doing likewise:
http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5000
Mark Phillips
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LarryRosen(at)comcast.net |
I purchased my reamers from Brown Aircraft tool http://www.browntool.com/. Quality reamer at a good price.
Larry Rosen
RV-10 #356
<http://home.comcast.net/~rv10pilot/>
-------------- Original message --------------
>
>
> Good sources of aircraft tools are these guys among several others.
> My first choice is always to deal with those companies who are aviation
> oriented and who support the various get-togethers like Oshkosh, Arlington,
> Copperstate, etc. whenever possible. If you attend some of these events, you
> will often see and meet the principles in these companies. They will often
> go the extra mile to meet your needs.
> Albert Gardner
> RV-9A N872RV
> Yuma, AZ
>
> http://www.averytools.com
> http://www.cleavelandtool.com
> http://www.ustool.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
I purchased my reamers from Brown Aircraft tool http://www.browntool.com/. Quality reamer at a good price.
Larry Rosen
RV-10 #356
http://home.comcast.net/~rv10pilot/
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: "Albert Gardner"
Good sources of aircraft tools are these guys among several others.
My first choice is always to deal with those companies who are aviation
oriented and who support the various get-togethers like Oshkosh, Arlington,
Copperstate, etc. whenever possible. If you attend some of these events, you
will often see and meet the principles in these companies. They will often
go the extra mile to meet your needs.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A N872RV
Yuma, AZ
http://www.averytools.com
http://www.cleavelandtool.com
http://www.ustool.com
st Email Forum -
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greg Grigson <iflyhawaii2(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Attention Southwestern RV flyers!! |
I am looking for help to start the flight test phase
of my RV-6A. I need 2-3 hours dual in an RV tri-gear
for insurance puposes. No aircraft exist in the
Hawaiian Islands......yet.
I will be in the New Mexico area on vacation August
3rd to 13th. Is there a kind soul out there willing
to help?
This is an opportunity to make a friend for life.
P.S. I have the cash to cover your expenses.
Mahalo,
Greg In Honolulu
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Schreck" <ronschreck(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Seat Cushions |
Lucky,
Thanks for the response. Don't know what it is about this RV-list. Hundreds of
guys out there and except for one advertisement for new seat cushions and someone
bragging about their height, yours is the only helpful response to my questions.
Thank you. I'll give it another try Listers. Any takers?
Ron Schreck
Hi Ron,
In short, yes, I have the same problem with my Van's RV8 seats which Abby
also
covered for me. I haven't done anything about it yet. Still head scratching
but thanks for telling me in advance what Van's will say. They'll probably
tell
me "first they heard of it" ;-)
The seat back cushions ARE designed to go all the way down to the floor and
that
would be consistent with what Clevaland and other interior cushion designers
do.
I think that's what you want to do as well regardless of how you fix the
problems.
Right now I have to really cram and squish the cushions to get them in their
more or less desired positions. They don't want to stay there.
For the pilot's seat bottom cushion, you have to mark a line for where Abby
would
have to slit the cushion for the crotch strap. Not needed for the back seat
due
to different design. Also, front seat belts will go around the pilot's back
support structure, not through it for me. Same as most other planes I have
seen.
I pretty much gave up on chewing gum. Hurts my jaws now a days.
Let me know what you end up doing.
-------------- Original message --------------
>
> >
> >Listers,
> > I bought a set of Van's RV-8 seat cushions and had them delivered to
> > Abby at Flightline Interiors for upholstering. They just arrived here
> > last week and Abby did a marvelous job. Unfortunately, they don't fit
> > well. She used Van's patterns to cut the upholstery and expertly covered
> > the cushions as supplied from Van's. The front and rear seat backs fit
> > fine if they go all the way to the floor, but then the seat cushions
are
> > too long (front to back). If I put the seat cushions in first so they
> > go all the way to the back support then the back cushions, which now
sit
> > on top of the seat cushions, are too tall!
> > I emailed Vans and they promptly replied. Basically said that they
> > covered their RV-8 cushions as supplied and they fit fine. Sorry yours
> > don't fit...period.
> > I called Abby and she couldn't be nicer. She said she has recently
> > done several RV-8 cushions from Vans but didn't know if anyone else has
> > tried to fit them in their airplane yet. She said she will call her
> > other customers and see if they have a problem. Regardless, she vowed
to
> > make them right.
> > A few questions for those of you who have purchased Van's RV-8 cushions:
> > 1. Did you have to trim them in any way before covering?
> > 2. Did you cut a hole for the crotch straps or route them in front
> > of the seat cushions?
> > 3. Did you cut holes for the front seat belts or route them around
> > the seat back cushion.
> > 4. Do your seat back cushions sit on top of the seat cushions or go
> > all the way to the cockpit floor?
> > 5. Does your chewing gum loose it's flavor on the bedpost
> > overnight? (er... guess I'm out of questions.)
> >
> >Thanks for the help Listers.
> >
> >Ron Schreck
> >Painting
> >Panel Cutting/Wiring
> >Teeth Gnashing
________________________________________________________________________________
1.25 RCVD_NUMERIC_HELO Received: contains an IP address used for HELO
Received my Garmin GPSMAP 396 today. What a great unit!
Essentially the same as a 296 with the color mapping and terrain/obstacle display,
but also has the XM Radio/WX Works weather display through a separate Smart Antenna,
powered by the 396. A quick read of the instructions (easy if you are used to
the
196 or 296 switchology), hook it up, turn it on, while it's on call XM Radio with
800 number provided (in San Angelo TX no less) and give them the ID # and personal
info, and with in 15 mins you are receiving. A good day to try it out with Emily
just to the South.
NEXRAD radar, Satellite Mosaic, Lightning, Storm cells, Hurricanes, Surface and
Altitude winds, Surface Pressure, Fronts, Visibility, County Weather Warnings,
METARSs,
TAFs, Airmets, Sigmets, TFRs, Echo Tops, Freezing Levels, Forecasts, it's all there
in pictorial and text. Plus if you sign up for the Radio (6.99/mon) you get all
the XM Radio stuff, for which you need to buy a separate cable to put into your
headset or audio panel.
You can overlay it on Nav screen or not. Screen is clear, bright, easy to see.
Just pan the cursor out to see METARS (flag beside an airport symbol), rain intensity,
TFRs, Sigmets and Airmets. For detailed weather, hit menu twice and go to WX and
you have it all in detail.
This is what I have been waiting for. To see weather in the cockpit without having
to listen and picture in your mind what Flight Watch is saying and without the
old
"VFR Flight is not Recommended". There have been some other units, but
this one is an all up unit with a bright, easy to to see/read screen that you can
use without a stylus. And there is a free car kit which comes with a speaker/power
cord to use in the car mode.
Looking forward to having it available on the way to Mason City and OSH.
Also, The Aviator LT pacakge is $29.99/mon (Nexrad, TFRs, City Forecasts,County
Warnings, Precip types, METARS, TAFs), and the AviatorPackage is $49.99/mon (in
addition to above Airmets, Sigmets, EchoTops, Severe Wx Storms Tracks, Surface
Analysis Wx Maps, Lightning,Winds Aloft, and Sat Mosaic).
Stu McCurdy
RV-8, Flying
RV-3, Flying
Received my Garmin GPSMAP 396 today. What a great unit!
Essentially the same as a 296 with the color mapping and terrain/obstacle display,
but also has the XM Radio/WX Works weather display through a separate Smart Antenna,
powered by the 396. A quick read of the instructions (easy if you are used to
the
196 or 296 switchology), hook it up, turn it on, while it's on call XM Radio with
800 number provided (in San Angelo TX no less) and give them the ID # and personal
info, and with in 15 mins you are receiving. A good day to try it out with Emily
just to the South.
NEXRAD radar, Satellite Mosaic, Lightning, Storm cells, Hurricanes, Surface and
Altitude winds, Surface Pressure, Fronts, Visibility, County Weather Warnings,
METARSs,
TAFs, Airmets, Sigmets, TFRs, Echo Tops, Freezing Levels, Forecasts, it's all there
in pictorial and text. Plus if you sign up for the Radio (6.99/mon) you get all
the XM Radio stuff, for which you need to buy a separate cable to put into your
headset or audio panel.
You can overlay it on Nav screen or not. Screen is clear, bright, easy to see.
Just pan the cursor out to see METARS (flag beside an airport symbol), rain intensity,
TFRs, Sigmets and Airmets. For detailed weather, hit menu twice and go to WX and
you have it all in detail.
This is what I have been waiting for. To see weather in the cockpit without having
to listen and picture in your mind what Flight Watch is saying and without the
old
"VFR Flight is not Recommended". There have been some other units, but
this one is an all up unit with a bright, easy to to see/read screen that you can
use without a stylus. And there is a free car kit which comes with a speaker/power
cord to use in the car mode.
Looking forward to having it available on the way to Mason City and OSH.
Also, The Aviator LT pacakge is $29.99/mon (Nexrad, TFRs, City Forecasts,
County Warnings, Precip types, METARS, TAFs), and the Aviator
Package is $49.99/mon (in addition to above Airmets, Sigmets, Echo
Tops, Severe Wx Storms Tracks, Surface Analysis Wx Maps, Lightning,
Winds Aloft, and Sat Mosaic).
Stu McCurdy
RV-8, Flying
RV-3, Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Seat Cushions |
In a message dated 7/20/2005 8:11:40 AM Eastern Standard Time,
ronschreck(at)alltel.net writes:
> Thanks for the response. Don't know what it is about this RV-list.
> Hundreds of guys out there and except for one advertisement for new seat cushions
> and someone bragging about their height, yours is the only helpful response to
> my questions. Thank you. I'll give it another try Listers. Any takers?
>
I had mine made by cleaveland tool. They fit.
You supply some key measurements and they supply the foam.
I saw a plane at sun and fun..liked them..got the guys name who made them
and they made his seats for my plane.
Rear seat fills seat pan top to bottom. Lower seat cushion is
mounted on the floor unless you build the sheet metal wedge that
cleaveland suggests that changes seat angle, or you use the cushion wedge
they send with seats.
I am not so sure this answered any of your questions but you
got another response :)
RV-4
RV-8 QB .... Fuselage
Sal Capra
Lakeland, FL
My Home Page
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Seat Cushions |
Hi All-
>The seat back cushions ARE designed to go all the way down to the floor
and that
>would be consistent with what Clevaland and other interior cushion
designers
>do.
My recollection of the situation is that if you are going to wear 'chutes,
the geometry of the seats in the -8 will lead you to a seat pack up front
and a back pack in the rear. Ideally, this would lead to the forward seat
back going to the floor, and the rear seat back sitting atop the bottom
cushion.
> They'll probably tell me "first they heard of it" ;-)
Anecdote - I once called and asked if they had any special insights about
really good or really bad nav antenna locations. The response was 'Nav
antenna? I've never SEEN an IFR RV.'
Glen Matejcek
aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
Yes, the pencil sized brass tube in the center of the venturi. This was
10 years ago so the memory is getting foggy on details but I remember
that the problem was cured. I think that this is fairly common on RVs.
Since then I've had 2 Stinsons and am now flying a fuel injected Rocket
so forgive me for not spouting part numbers, etc. I seem to recall that
the "official" name for the thing was some sort of nozzle. The gents at
El Reno with undoubtably know the right name.
Fly safely,
Vince
From: "Scott Jackson" <>
Subject: Re: RV-List: momentary burp
By "incorrect nozzle" do you mean the main jet?
Scott
----- Original Message -----
From: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu>
Subject: RV-List: momentary burp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6(at)bryantechnology.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Seat Cushions |
I purchased seat cushions from vans for my -6 and had the same issue. I
didn't pursue it as I decided to have my seats done by Abey at Flightline
I sold my seats to a scale corsair builder. Don't know the answer for the
reason they are like that, but it wasn't just yours.
Tim
RV-6
N616TB
-------Original Message-------
From: Ron Schreck
Date: 07/20/05 04:19:00
Subject: RV-List: RV-8 Seat Cushions
Lucky,
Thanks for the response. Don't know what it is about this RV-list.
Hundreds of guys out there and except for one advertisement for new seat
cushions and someone bragging about their height, yours is the only helpful
response to my questions. Thank you. I'll give it another try Listers.
Any takers?
Ron Schreck
Hi Ron,
In short, yes, I have the same problem with my Van's RV8 seats which
Abby also
covered for me. I haven't done anything about it yet. Still head
scratching
but thanks for telling me in advance what Van's will say. They'll
probably tell
me "first they heard of it" ;-)
The seat back cushions ARE designed to go all the way down to the
floor and that
would be consistent with what Clevaland and other interior cushion
designers
do.
I think that's what you want to do as well regardless of how you fix
the problems.
Right now I have to really cram and squish the cushions to get them in
their
more or less desired positions. They don't want to stay there.
For the pilot's seat bottom cushion, you have to mark a line for where
Abby would
have to slit the cushion for the crotch strap. Not needed for the
back seat due
to different design. Also, front seat belts will go around the pilot
s back
support structure, not through it for me. Same as most other planes I
have
seen.
I pretty much gave up on chewing gum. Hurts my jaws now a days.
Let me know what you end up doing.
-------------- Original message --------------
>
> >
> >Listers,
> > I bought a set of Van's RV-8 seat cushions and had them delivered
to
> > Abby at Flightline Interiors for upholstering. They just arrived
here
> > last week and Abby did a marvelous job. Unfortunately, they don't
fit
> > well. She used Van's patterns to cut the upholstery and expertly
covered
> > the cushions as supplied from Van's. The front and rear seat backs
fit
> > fine if they go all the way to the floor, but then the seat
cushions are
> > too long (front to back). If I put the seat cushions in first so
they
> > go all the way to the back support then the back cushions, which
now sit
> > on top of the seat cushions, are too tall!
> > I emailed Vans and they promptly replied. Basically said that they
> > covered their RV-8 cushions as supplied and they fit fine. Sorry
yours
> > don't fit...period.
> > I called Abby and she couldn't be nicer. She said she has recently
> > done several RV-8 cushions from Vans but didn't know if anyone
else has
> > tried to fit them in their airplane yet. She said she will call
her
> > other customers and see if they have a problem. Regardless, she
vowed to
> > make them right.
> > A few questions for those of you who have purchased Van's RV-8
cushions:
> > 1. Did you have to trim them in any way before covering?
> > 2. Did you cut a hole for the crotch straps or route them in front
> > of the seat cushions?
> > 3. Did you cut holes for the front seat belts or route them around
> > the seat back cushion.
> > 4. Do your seat back cushions sit on top of the seat cushions or
go
> > all the way to the cockpit floor?
> > 5. Does your chewing gum loose it's flavor on the bedpost
> > overnight? (er... guess I'm out of questions.)
> >
> >Thanks for the help Listers.
> >
> >Ron Schreck
> >Painting
> >Panel Cutting/Wiring
> >Teeth Gnashing
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Back from a vacation |
| From: | "Stephanie Marshall" <smarshall(at)enid.org> |
2.03 HTML_TAG_EXIST_MARQUEE BODY": rv-list(at)matronics.com
Hey everyone,
After having been gone for a whole month I have finally gotten home and our website
updated.
Have I missed anything too earth shattering?
Cheers,
Stephanie Marshall
www.rv-8a.4t.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | (Van's) RV-8 Seat Cushions |
I also bought Van's cushion set followed by questions to Cleaveland re their
covering same. First reply indicated they too have some issues or problem
using Van's. 'Am now waiting a more difinitive response from DJ herself
before proceeding.
Jack, #80815, gear intersection fairings
Red Wing, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Birkelbach <phil(at)petrasoft.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Got an interesting engine problem/solution and a ? |
The way that I understand it is... When only running on one mag the fuel
is not being completely burned so some burning fuel is going out the
pipes and causing the EGT to rise.
Another way to look at is by considering the engine a thermodynamic
black box. Energy goes in one place (fuel) and comes out in two places
(turning the prop and exhaust heat). The sum of the "outs" must equal
the sum of the "ins." Since the end goal is to turn the prop we measure
efficiency by how much energy we get from the fuel to the prop. The
rest is "wasted" in heating up the exhaust gasses. Therefore anything
that decreases the efficiency of the engine and does not affect the fuel
flow should cause the EGT to rise.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB - Finishing Up
http://www.myrv7.com
Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta) wrote:
>My unanswered ? is this. Why on one mag are the egt's so high. The was
>the on-going clue that we missed. My common sense tells me that one mag
>is less efficient, not burning as well, and should run cooler in egt.
>Dual mag means more complete burn and runs hotter. But the complete
>opposite happened. In all this time during a mag check I have never
>noticed this since I peg my eye on RPM and never bother looking at EGT
>during mag check.
>
>
>Why do egt's rise on one mag only?
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
Aviation Consumer just published a lengthy review of the 396 on their
website. Bottom line is they like it -- a lot.
Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vic Jacko" <vicwj(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Got an interesting engine problem/solution and a ? |
Recently I asked a question about how valuable the EGT,s are and this thread
has given a few answers as to it's use to diagnosis problems,
Thanks,
Vic
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phil Birkelbach" <phil(at)petrasoft.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Got an interesting engine problem/solution and a ?
>
> The way that I understand it is... When only running on one mag the fuel
> is not being completely burned so some burning fuel is going out the
> pipes and causing the EGT to rise.
>
> Another way to look at is by considering the engine a thermodynamic
> black box. Energy goes in one place (fuel) and comes out in two places
> (turning the prop and exhaust heat). The sum of the "outs" must equal
> the sum of the "ins." Since the end goal is to turn the prop we measure
> efficiency by how much energy we get from the fuel to the prop. The
> rest is "wasted" in heating up the exhaust gasses. Therefore anything
> that decreases the efficiency of the engine and does not affect the fuel
> flow should cause the EGT to rise.
>
> Godspeed,
>
> Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
> RV-7 N727WB - Finishing Up
> http://www.myrv7.com
>
>
> Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta) wrote:
>
>>My unanswered ? is this. Why on one mag are the egt's so high. The was
>>the on-going clue that we missed. My common sense tells me that one mag
>>is less efficient, not burning as well, and should run cooler in egt.
>>Dual mag means more complete burn and runs hotter. But the complete
>>opposite happened. In all this time during a mag check I have never
>>noticed this since I peg my eye on RPM and never bother looking at EGT
>>during mag check.
>>
>>
>>Why do egt's rise on one mag only?
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Got an interesting engine problem/solution and a ? |
| From: | "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net> |
And to add to that. I posted the ~1650 egt numbers on the GRT(engine
monitor) yahoo group and basically got "don't worry about how high they
are, it is just a relative number. Lean to peak then richen a bit...."
Which up until these responses today I was in total agreement with. They
and I were wrong and no one said " hey dude, high egt's could mean only
one plug firing."
I completely understand now how I missed the clue. Will not happen
again.
Thanks to all the responses. You all agreed .....and.... I do think it
is a first on the rv-list that I can remember:)
Thanks Gents
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vic Jacko
Subject: Re: RV-List: Got an interesting engine problem/solution and a ?
Recently I asked a question about how valuable the EGT,s are and this
thread
has given a few answers as to it's use to diagnosis problems,
Thanks,
Vic
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phil Birkelbach" <phil(at)petrasoft.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Got an interesting engine problem/solution and a ?
>
> The way that I understand it is... When only running on one mag the
fuel
> is not being completely burned so some burning fuel is going out the
> pipes and causing the EGT to rise.
>
> Another way to look at is by considering the engine a thermodynamic
> black box. Energy goes in one place (fuel) and comes out in two
places
> (turning the prop and exhaust heat). The sum of the "outs" must equal
> the sum of the "ins." Since the end goal is to turn the prop we
measure
> efficiency by how much energy we get from the fuel to the prop. The
> rest is "wasted" in heating up the exhaust gasses. Therefore anything
> that decreases the efficiency of the engine and does not affect the
fuel
> flow should cause the EGT to rise.
>
> Godspeed,
>
> Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
> RV-7 N727WB - Finishing Up
> http://www.myrv7.com
>
>
> Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta) wrote:
>
>>My unanswered ? is this. Why on one mag are the egt's so high. The was
>>the on-going clue that we missed. My common sense tells me that one
mag
>>is less efficient, not burning as well, and should run cooler in egt.
>>Dual mag means more complete burn and runs hotter. But the complete
>>opposite happened. In all this time during a mag check I have never
>>noticed this since I peg my eye on RPM and never bother looking at EGT
>>during mag check.
>>
>>
>>Why do egt's rise on one mag only?
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marty" <martorious(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Got an interesting engine problem/solution and a ? |
|-----Original Message-----
|
|... This also makes it
|easy to find a dead plug on one cylinder, since there
|will be no EGT change on that cyclinder when turning
|off the bad plug.
|
|Skylor
|RV-8 QB
|Under Construction
True, but wouldn't it be even easier to detect a bad plug when you
turn off the 'good' plug? ;)
Marty
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "flynlow" <flynlow(at)usaviator.net> |
| Subject: | Control Stick Grip |
Hello Group;
Now this may sound like a stupid question at first but think about it. I see
a lot of military control stick grips on Ebay, usually over $200! Has anyone
ever attempted to use a "game" type of joy stick grip and adapt it to an RV?
Yes they are lighter in weight, but if disassembled, could one be filled
with fiberglass jelly to strengthen it? Could the switches be adapted? Let
me know what you all think.
Bud Silvers
Black Forest, Colorado
RV-8 underway.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Control Stick Grip |
On 13:39:08 2005-07-20 "flynlow" wrote:
> Now this may sound like a stupid question at first but think about
> it. I see a lot of military control stick grips on Ebay, usually over
> $200! Has anyone ever attempted to use a "game" type of joy stick
> grip and adapt it to an RV? Yes they are lighter in weight, but if
> disassembled, could one be filled with fiberglass jelly to strengthen
> it? Could the switches be adapted? Let me know what you all think.
There's a few things to consider here:
1. Military grips are designed for use with full flight gear on, which
frequently includes thick gloves (in colder climates). The grips
consequently feel quite large in a bare hand, which is how most of us fly
day-to-day. So a military surplus control stick grip may not be a good
choice.
2. Game controllers aren't really designed to take the rigors of flight.
Never mind that they should be designed to take the rigors of a 12-year-old
whacking it against the floor, I would say that they're not designed to
take that more than once or twice. Certainly the ones i've seen in stores
lately wouldn't last more than a few months in a cockpit (or a few days in
front of a 12 year old, for that matter).
3. Switches on Game controllers fail all the time. I have three joysticks
at home with defunct switches. All worked great until the switches died,
but now I can't shoot (one of them) drop bombs (another) or change my
throttle setting (the third one). I wouldn't want one quitting on me in
the cockpit.
4. There are a number of companies that make scaled down copies of Military
grips, with solid (mil-spec?) switch mechanisms inside. More comfortable
with bare hands, and durable enough for long service life. Infinity
Aerospace is the first company that comes to mind, but I know there are
others (I don't work for IA, I just know they make one).
Hope this helps,
Rob P
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brad Oliver <brad(at)rv7factory.com> |
| Subject: | Control Stick Grip |
Bud,
FWIW... CHProducts, the makers of gaming joysticks, manufactures a grip
for aircraft. More info here...
http://www.chproducts.com/retail/aircraft.html
Brad Oliver
RV-7 609BC Reserved
Livermore, CA
www.RV7Factory.com
> -------- Original Message --------
> Subject: RV-List: Control Stick Grip
> From: "flynlow" <flynlow(at)usaviator.net>
> Date: Wed, July 20, 2005 1:39 pm
> To: "Rv-List(at)Matronics. Com"
>
>
> Hello Group;
>
> Now this may sound like a stupid question at first but think about it. I see
> a lot of military control stick grips on Ebay, usually over $200! Has anyone
> ever attempted to use a "game" type of joy stick grip and adapt it to an RV?
> Yes they are lighter in weight, but if disassembled, could one be filled
> with fiberglass jelly to strengthen it? Could the switches be adapted? Let
> me know what you all think.
>
> Bud Silvers
> Black Forest, Colorado
> RV-8 underway.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Tasker <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Control Stick Grip |
CH Products already does this. see
http://www.chproducts.com/retail/aircraft.html
Last time I checked they were $99 each.
Dick Tasker
flynlow wrote:
>
>Hello Group;
>
>Now this may sound like a stupid question at first but think about it. I see
>a lot of military control stick grips on Ebay, usually over $200! Has anyone
>ever attempted to use a "game" type of joy stick grip and adapt it to an RV?
>Yes they are lighter in weight, but if disassembled, could one be filled
>with fiberglass jelly to strengthen it? Could the switches be adapted? Let
>me know what you all think.
>
>Bud Silvers
>Black Forest, Colorado
>RV-8 underway.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Control Stick Grip |
You could go through all of that...or
Call Kevin Williamson in the Aircraft Division of CH Products. He can hook you
up with a nice unit for around $120.00... prewired and has the stick adapter made
for the RV's.
760-598-2518
Darrell
flynlow wrote:
Hello Group;
Now this may sound like a stupid question at first but think about it. I see
a lot of military control stick grips on Ebay, usually over $200! Has anyone
ever attempted to use a "game" type of joy stick grip and adapt it to an RV?
Yes they are lighter in weight, but if disassembled, could one be filled
with fiberglass jelly to strengthen it? Could the switches be adapted? Let
me know what you all think.
Bud Silvers
Black Forest, Colorado
RV-8 underway.
Darrell Reiley
Round Rock, Texas
RV 7A "Reiley Rocket"
N622DR (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Control Stick Grip |
Dont put a cheesy stick grip on there put on a real one it comes pre-wired
at $150 bucks. Do it right the first time and you wont have regrets later.
http://www.infinityaerospace.com/infgrip.htm
>
>You could go through all of that...or
>
>Call Kevin Williamson in the Aircraft Division of CH Products. He can hook
>you up with a nice unit for around $120.00... prewired and has the stick
>adapter made for the RV's.
>760-598-2518
>
>
>Darrell
>
>flynlow wrote:
>
>Hello Group;
>
>Now this may sound like a stupid question at first but think about it. I see
>a lot of military control stick grips on Ebay, usually over $200! Has anyone
>ever attempted to use a "game" type of joy stick grip and adapt it to an RV?
>Yes they are lighter in weight, but if disassembled, could one be filled
>with fiberglass jelly to strengthen it? Could the switches be adapted? Let
>me know what you all think.
>
>Bud Silvers
>Black Forest, Colorado
>RV-8 underway.
>
>
>Darrell Reiley
>Round Rock, Texas
>
>RV 7A "Reiley Rocket"
>N622DR (reserved)
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <dwhite17(at)columbus.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Control Stick Grip |
We tried the CH Products grip on our RV6. The grip cants forward, and we
were not able to use because we put a lower extension on our panel and the
grip would hit it before hitting the stops.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Control Stick Grip |
Did you trim the stick any?
We tried the CH Products grip on our RV6. The grip cants forward, and we
were not able to use because we put a lower extension on our panel and the
grip would hit it before hitting the stops.
Darrell Reiley
Round Rock, Texas
RV 7A "Reiley Rocket"
N622DR (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | E-703/Elevator skin mis-match |
Hi all,
So here's a weird one:
I was trying to put the right hand elevator structure together with the skin
prepartory to reaming the holes. When I line up all the holes with clecos,
there is a 1/4 twist to the trailing edge and really funky bulge at E-703. If
I
take the clecos out of one side, everything lines up fine. It looks like the
holes on one side of E-703, the elevator outboard rib, are off by about 1/8
or a little more along one side.
I tried both a fluted and ready to go rib and a second non-fluted one (the
left one I hadn't worked on yet). This is really odd as everything else has
lined up perfectly. If I force the skin and rib together, then I do not have
anything resembling a straight elevator trailing edge. If I put it together
straight, the holes are not lining up. Everything else seems to fit just
perfectly including the other outboard rib and the counterweight skin.
Suggestions?
For those of you following my (mis)adventures with the elevator skin
stiffeners, I was able to trim them up to avoid any contact with the opposing skin.
The very slight creases are almost invisible. I think I will proceed with
assembly (if I can figure this other issue out) and show it to my tech counselor.
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV-8, Empennage
San Ramon, California
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Control Stick Grip |
I see some sticks that are perhaps 6 inches or more longer than I prefer.
I fly with my hand on my thigh using fingers to fly. I could actually cut
mine down another 2 inches or so to make pushing the PTT switch easier.
Ron Lee
>We tried the CH Products grip on our RV6. The grip cants forward, and we
>were not able to use because we put a lower extension on our panel and the
>grip would hit it before hitting the stops.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Travis Hamblen" <TravisHamblen(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Garmin 327 and Dynon |
I have a Dynon D10A that I am using as the encoder for my Garmin 327. The
problem is that I can't get the Garmin 327 to display the altitude, which
means it isn't recognizing it from the Dynon. I called Dynon and they told
me how to configure the Dynon for the right type of output, but they didn't
know what I needed to configure on the Garmin 327. Does anyone out there
that has this setup remember what they had to change on the Garmin to have
it recognize the Dynon? Any help is MUCH appreciated!
Travis
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: E-703/Elevator skin mis-match |
Is there any chance you're installing the left elevator rib on the right
elevator? It would be upside down and backwards in that instance, and might
cause the kind of misalignment you're seeing.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: <MLWynn(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: E-703/Elevator skin mis-match
>
> Hi all,
>
> So here's a weird one:
>
> I was trying to put the right hand elevator structure together with the
> skin
> prepartory to reaming the holes. When I line up all the holes with
> clecos,
> there is a 1/4 twist to the trailing edge and really funky bulge at E-703.
> If I
> take the clecos out of one side, everything lines up fine. It looks like
> the
> holes on one side of E-703, the elevator outboard rib, are off by about
> 1/8
> or a little more along one side.
>
> I tried both a fluted and ready to go rib and a second non-fluted one (the
> left one I hadn't worked on yet). This is really odd as everything else
> has
> lined up perfectly. If I force the skin and rib together, then I do not
> have
> anything resembling a straight elevator trailing edge. If I put it
> together
> straight, the holes are not lining up. Everything else seems to fit just
> perfectly including the other outboard rib and the counterweight skin.
>
> Suggestions?
>
> For those of you following my (mis)adventures with the elevator skin
> stiffeners, I was able to trim them up to avoid any contact with the
> opposing skin.
> The very slight creases are almost invisible. I think I will proceed with
> assembly (if I can figure this other issue out) and show it to my tech
> counselor.
>
> Regards,
>
> Michael Wynn
> RV-8, Empennage
> San Ramon, California
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nick Nafsinger" <nick(at)creteaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Garmin 327 and Dynon |
Travis,
You need to configure the RS 232 Input Port 1 on the 327 to ICARUS ALT.
To get to the Configuration pages do this:
"With the unit turned off, holding down the FUNC key and pressing one of
the power on keys provides access to the configuration pages. The FUNC
key sequences through the configuration pages. The START/STOP key
reverses through the pages, stopping at the first configuration page.
The CRSR key highlights selectable fields on each page. When a field is
highlighted, numeric data entry is performed with the 0 - 9 keys and
list selections are performed with the 8 or 9 keys. Press the CRSR key
to accept changes. Pressing the FUNC key displays the next
configuration page without saving the changes.
To exit the configuration pages, turn the power off. Then turn on again
(without holding the FUNC key) for normal operation."
That should get you started, if you have any problems feel free to email
me direct.
Nick
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Travis Hamblen
Subject: RV-List: Garmin 327 and Dynon
I have a Dynon D10A that I am using as the encoder for my Garmin 327.
The
problem is that I can't get the Garmin 327 to display the altitude,
which
means it isn't recognizing it from the Dynon. I called Dynon and they
told
me how to configure the Dynon for the right type of output, but they
didn't
know what I needed to configure on the Garmin 327. Does anyone out
there
that has this setup remember what they had to change on the Garmin to
have
it recognize the Dynon? Any help is MUCH appreciated!
Travis
--
--
--
________________________________________________________________________________
July 08, 2005 - July 20, 2005
RV-Archive.digest.vol-rb