Rocket-Archive.digest.vol-ad
February 10, 2000 - August 05, 2000
CG in the HRII that you dont have in a F1 rocket. I am pretty sure I am
going to follow Ken Fowlers lead and hang a 3 bladed MT prop on my F1.
Chris Wilcox
f1 rocket
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
| Subject: | RE: Rocket-List Digest: 02/09/00 |
From: LKDAUDT2(at)aol.com
Subject: Rocket-List: Engine Prop Combination....
Rocket Builders help please...
Im talking to my engine builder and he needs to know what, if any, 3 blade
prop was used on the Cherokee 6 or Aztec or any other production aircraft
with the IO540 C4B5... Certified...
We also need to know the prop counterweight system you used if you are using
a C4B5 with either 2 or 3 blades.
Any information would be appreciated...
Larry
Larry,
I called Hartzell tech support at 1-937-778-4379 with my questions. They
were quite helpful. Then I called Don Addison, Hartzell's #1 vendor, at
1-800-528-7551 with more questions. Also queried Paul at American
Propeller, 1-800-292-7767 and Artie at New England Propeller, 1-800-878-6377
with still more questions.
None of these people felt that a 3 blade would offer any huge benefit over a
2 blade prop when installed on a Rocket. They seemed to think the 3 blade
would offer slightly better climb and a bit more ground clearance but at a
much higher price. A Rocket should outclimb most anything even with the
worst 2 blade so why bother. I have heard Mark F. say he was going to a 3
blade to try to reduce airframe vibrations...you might ask him if that has
been tried yet.
ALL the prop people I spoke to said that if you buy a salvage yard or any
other used prop to be sure to check the serial number on the HUB. Newer
hubs have a serial number ending with A or B. All other hubs have potential
cracking problems, so check with a prop shop before you buy some old piece
of %
&*.
All the above is condensed from several hours of conversation.... be sure to
check for yourself. YMMV
I bought an O-540-B2B5 last weekend with Bendix inj added. Anybody have
suggestions on where to send the case to be checked / overhauled?
Vince in Indiana
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RE: Rocket-List Digest: 02/09/00 |
Vince writes.....I bought an O-540-B2B5 last weekend with Bendix inj added.
Anybody have
suggestions on where to send the case to be checked / overhauled?
Vince in Indiana
I have used AJAX in (I think Oak. City, Ok).....I am not with my records now so
I cant geta phone number but they are the #1 shop and come highly reccommended.
They can grind the case halves if necessary & have line bore capability. ALSO
consider NAY Nozzles. They spray oil mist up onto the cam and the mod is only
75$......good money spent . Check TAP for AJAX's number...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | F1Rocket(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Rocket-List Digest: 02/09/00 |
In a message dated 2/10/00 9:28:20 AM Eastern Standard Time, VFrazier(at)usi.edu
writes:
<<
Rocket Builders help please...
Im talking to my engine builder and he needs to know what, if any, 3 blade
prop was used on the Cherokee 6 or Aztec or any other production aircraft
with the IO540 C4B5... Certified...
We also need to know the prop counterweight system you used if you are using
a C4B5 with either 2 or 3 blades.
Any information would be appreciated...
Larry
Larry,
I called Hartzell tech support at 1-937-778-4379 with my questions. They
were quite helpful. Then I called Don Addison, Hartzell's #1 vendor, at
1-800-528-7551 with more questions. Also queried Paul at American
Propeller, 1-800-292-7767 and Artie at New England Propeller, 1-800-878-6377
with still more questions.
None of these people felt that a 3 blade would offer any huge benefit over a
2 blade prop when installed on a Rocket. They seemed to think the 3 blade
would offer slightly better climb and a bit more ground clearance but at a
much higher price. A Rocket should outclimb most anything even with the
worst 2 blade so why bother. I have heard Mark F. say he was going to a 3
blade to try to reduce airframe vibrations...you might ask him if that has
been tried yet. >>
We have put the 3 blade prop on Mark's plane and the results are as follows:
The ground clearance is significantly greater. The intial pull of the prop is
not as high as the 2 blade prop, but the climb is slightly better. There does
not seem to be any difference in the top speed of the aircraft. However, the
smoothness of the run is alot better. The 3 blade prop is alot smoother and
greatly reduces that thump sound on the aircraft. The looks of the aircraft
with the 3 blade prop is phenominal.
Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <bfiles(at)corecom.net> |
| Subject: | RE: Rocket-List Digest: 02/09/00 |
Vince,
Use only Divco to recertify your case. I strongly with emphasis say only
use Divco.
***Bryan E. Files***
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
Fat City Aircraft
Palmer, Alaska
mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rocket-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rocket-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Frazier,
Vincent A
Sent: Thursday, February 10, 2000 5:26 AM
Subject: Rocket-List: RE: Rocket-List Digest: 02/09/00
From: LKDAUDT2(at)aol.com
Subject: Rocket-List: Engine Prop Combination....
Rocket Builders help please...
Im talking to my engine builder and he needs to know what, if any, 3 blade
prop was used on the Cherokee 6 or Aztec or any other production aircraft
with the IO540 C4B5... Certified...
We also need to know the prop counterweight system you used if you are using
a C4B5 with either 2 or 3 blades.
Any information would be appreciated...
Larry
Larry,
I called Hartzell tech support at 1-937-778-4379 with my questions. They
were quite helpful. Then I called Don Addison, Hartzell's #1 vendor, at
1-800-528-7551 with more questions. Also queried Paul at American
Propeller, 1-800-292-7767 and Artie at New England Propeller, 1-800-878-6377
with still more questions.
None of these people felt that a 3 blade would offer any huge benefit over a
2 blade prop when installed on a Rocket. They seemed to think the 3 blade
would offer slightly better climb and a bit more ground clearance but at a
much higher price. A Rocket should outclimb most anything even with the
worst 2 blade so why bother. I have heard Mark F. say he was going to a 3
blade to try to reduce airframe vibrations...you might ask him if that has
been tried yet.
ALL the prop people I spoke to said that if you buy a salvage yard or any
other used prop to be sure to check the serial number on the HUB. Newer
hubs have a serial number ending with A or B. All other hubs have potential
cracking problems, so check with a prop shop before you buy some old piece
of %
&*.
All the above is condensed from several hours of conversation.... be sure to
check for yourself. YMMV
I bought an O-540-B2B5 last weekend with Bendix inj added. Anybody have
suggestions on where to send the case to be checked / overhauled?
Vince in Indiana
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Stone" <jimandkathy(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Rocket-List Digest: 02/09/00 |
Vincent,
I used Monty Barrett of Barrett Performance in Tulsa. I just sent him my
individual parts (cases, accessory case, sump, rocker arms, rods and and
crankshaft with weights) and he handled the rest. He uses Aircraft
Specialties and Divco for his crank and case work. He does some work and
mods that most people don't even consider doing but I think it all adds to a
smother running engine, and will get me started towards the goal of making
it to TBO without a major problem. He is not cheap but he enjoys a great
rep and I didn't want just any shop working on my engine. He did a nice job
on my engine.
Good Luck
Jim Stone
PS Good start on your web site
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Mokry <RobMokry(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Rocket-List Digest: 02/09/00 |
Read the article in the recent AOPA mag on the Mooney Ovation...3-1=8 (3 blades
minus one blade equals 8 knots.)
F1Rocket(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 2/10/00 9:28:20 AM Eastern Standard Time, VFrazier(at)usi.edu
> writes:
>
> <<
> Rocket Builders help please...
> Im talking to my engine builder and he needs to know what, if any, 3 blade
> prop was used on the Cherokee 6 or Aztec or any other production aircraft
> with the IO540 C4B5... Certified...
> We also need to know the prop counterweight system you used if you are using
>
> a C4B5 with either 2 or 3 blades.
> Any information would be appreciated...
> Larry
>
> Larry,
>
> I called Hartzell tech support at 1-937-778-4379 with my questions. They
> were quite helpful. Then I called Don Addison, Hartzell's #1 vendor, at
> 1-800-528-7551 with more questions. Also queried Paul at American
> Propeller, 1-800-292-7767 and Artie at New England Propeller, 1-800-878-6377
> with still more questions.
>
> None of these people felt that a 3 blade would offer any huge benefit over a
> 2 blade prop when installed on a Rocket. They seemed to think the 3 blade
> would offer slightly better climb and a bit more ground clearance but at a
> much higher price. A Rocket should outclimb most anything even with the
> worst 2 blade so why bother. I have heard Mark F. say he was going to a 3
> blade to try to reduce airframe vibrations...you might ask him if that has
> been tried yet. >>
>
> We have put the 3 blade prop on Mark's plane and the results are as follows:
> The ground clearance is significantly greater. The intial pull of the prop is
> not as high as the 2 blade prop, but the climb is slightly better. There does
> not seem to be any difference in the top speed of the aircraft. However, the
> smoothness of the run is alot better. The 3 blade prop is alot smoother and
> greatly reduces that thump sound on the aircraft. The looks of the aircraft
> with the 3 blade prop is phenominal.
>
> Scott
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | A How To For Electrical |
Hello Listers:
A How To mount wires and cables to stop chafing. Another Secure Wires
"How To Page" http://members.aol.com/aamrelectr/Page98.html
Best regards,
John AAMR/AirCore/Mari
neCore
Best regards,
John @AAMR/AirCore
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Free Tool Bag With Order! |
We are giving away a nice Boeing tool bag with any $50.00 order until we run
out of bags.
Please go to our Home Page to link to the offer page.
http://members.aol.com/aamrelectr/index.html AAMR/AirCore/MarineCore
Best regards,
John @AAMR/AirCore
Best regards,
John @AAMR/AirCore
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List: Wiring Question |
>I am planning to install Aeroflash nav/strobes, Duckworth landing lights,
>and a Gretz heated pitot tube in the wings. Is there an accepted method
>for attaching to the frame for the ground return. In other words, should I
>do something like drilling and tapping a #4 or#6 screw to the spar and
>attach the ground wires to that?
Would suggest #8 is smallest and #10 is better. Use PIDG terminal
with appropriate hole for the wire you're going to ground.
Buff area of contact between terminal and airframe with VERY
fine sandpaper. Fasten to the airframe and tighten a #8 screw
to 15 in-lb. The reason you want #8 or bigger is that the smaller
screws don't have enough "meat" in their cores to force a
gas tight joint between the airframe and the mating surface
of the terminal.
Ground failures are almost always traceable to inadequate
mate up force when the joint was fabricated. Moisture
gets into space between terminal and airframe . . . they
ARE dissimilar metals after all. Add the ravages of time
and electron flow and eventually the joint fails. Get
it tight enough the first time and it will still be good
the day your airplane gets scrapped.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terrance Jantzi <tjantzi(at)netrover.com> |
| Subject: | F1 Rocket factory |
Just got back from a short visit to Taylor Texas and the F1 Rocket
headquarters. On Tuesday Tom Martin and myself left in Tom's Harmon
Rocket for warmer climes. We launched in 0 degree temps and landed 6
hours later in Taylor with temps in the 70's. I think it was about 1200
miles.
As a high time hardcore RV-6 driver, I am very impressed with Mark
Fredericks product and operation. Mark is a very busy guy but took a few
minutes to show us around and review the changes to the kit since the
prototype. The quality of the kit made me drool. I was amazed to see the
fuselage and wings rivited together without shims anywhere and all
underlying structures with no flutes. The people in the Czec Republic
apparently stamp the ribs and bulkheads after heat treating and the part
stays straight.
We didn't stay around very long because the place was humming and they
were getting three kits out the door while we were there. But we did see
his fiberglass team pop a couple of really nice parts out of the molds.
The evolution of these kits and what Mark is doing makes me think twice
about not wanting to build again. Its just a different world from what
we had 10 years ago.
My overall impressions of the operation? Mark and his team are one very
dedicated bunch of guys. They have taken a very good product and turned
it into an excellant one. I think that the F1 is a good value decision.
The obvious pride and workmanship that Mark and his bunch exhibit
impressed me greatly.
Terry Jantzi
RV-6 C-GZRV
Kitchener, ON
http://netrover.com/~tjantzi/terry/
http://www.ontariorvators.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Knight <knightair(at)lv.rmci.net> |
| Subject: | Knight Upholstery New Lower Prices |
Rocket Builders:
I have been in the upholstery business for 28 years and have been making
upholstery products for kitplanes for 16 years. I have interior kits
available for the Harmon Rocket. I also have cabin covers and other items.
I am the supplier of upholstery products for several kitplane manufacturers.
A list of other kitplane interior products available upon request.
For more information, call Knight Aircraft Interiors, Inc., at (702)
207-6681 or e-mail me at knightair(at)lv.rmci.net. If you e- mail for
information, please mention either "Knight" or "Upholstery" in your
reference line so I can give your request my immediate attention. Photos
available upon request.
Sincerely,
KNIGHT AIRCRAFT INTERIORS, INC.
"Fly by Knight" Upholstery Products
Sam Knight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | re: What's a PIDG terminal |
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: Grant Corriveau
>
>> From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
>...
>> Would suggest #8 is smallest and #10 is better. Use PIDG terminal
>> with appropriate hole for the wire you're going to ground.
>> Buff area of contact between terminal and airframe with VERY
>
>... What is a PIDG terminal?
That's an acronym for PreInsulated Diamon Grip, an AMP,
Incorporated trade name. When I speak of PIDG style
terminals, I'm talking about the better grade of terminal
with the metal liners inside the plastic insulation
grips. See:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/terminal.pdf
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Wiring Question |
>Thank you for your reply. Is it permissible to put more than one PIDG
>terminal under a grounding screw? Or perhaps several wires crimped in one
>terminal?
Yes and Yes . . . you can stack perhaps up to half dozen
terminals on a stud. No problems from an electrical perspective
but take care lest you stack multiple critical systems on the
same stud which becomes single point of failure for all.
You can fill up the wire grip volume of a terminal with more
than one strand of wire. For example, a red PIDG terminal
will accept two 22AWG wires. A blue PIDG will take three
22AWG wires or two 20AWG wires.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com |
n a message dated 2/12/00 9:02:53 PM Pacific Standard Time,
gfcorriv(at)total.net writes:
> ... What is a PIDG terminal?
>
> Thanks,
> Grant Corriveau
Hi Grant PIDG stands for Pre-insulated Diamond Grip. It's an AMP term for a
double crimp terminal that has a diamond pattern inside the barrel where it
crimps onto the bare strands of wire. We carry the AMP and Molex ( Molex uses
ovals and dots instead of diamonds). If you are interested in seeing why
double crimps are the best to use click here How to-Why Not.
This pages shows the make up of a double crimp connector and how to crimp
them.
Best regards,
John @ AAMR/AirCore/Mar
ineCore
Best regards,
John @AAMR/AirCore
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
| Subject: | Internet Explorer and List Subscription Page Problem... |
Listers,
I have just identified a problem between any version of Microsoft's
Internet Explorer and the email List Subscription Form found at
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IMPORTANT:
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Matronics Email List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Convert ATC Fuse Blocks To RINGS a HOW TO |
Would you like to see a way to convert an ATC Fuse Block with Push On Tabs,
to use RINGS? AAMR/A
irCore Fuse Block With Rings Or
http://members.aol.com/aamrelectr/Page101.html
Best regards,
John @ AAMR/AirCore/Mar
ineCore
Best regards,
John @ AAMR/AirCore/Mar
ineCore
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
"Internet Explorer and List Subscription Page Problem..." (Feb 15, 10:19am)
| Subject: | Re: Web Subscription Page Operation for Internet Explorer |
Restored...
Dear Listers,
I have rewritten the web page and CGI code for processing List
Subscription Requests to now be more compatible with command line
limitations of Microsoft's Internet Explorer and some very
old versions of Netscape. The page seems to be working fine
now on whatever browser I try. Please feel free to resume
your normal List Subscription habits.
The URL is: http://www.matronics.com/subscribe
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin.
>--------------
>
>
>Listers,
>
>I have just identified a problem between any version of Microsoft's
>Internet Explorer and the email List Subscription Form found at
>http://www.matronics.com/subscribe Please note that this problem
>*ONLY* affects users of Internet Explorer! Netscape users are
>*not* affected by the issue. Users of Internet Explorer should
>use the Netscape browser for now until a work around can be
>developed.
>
>IMPORTANT:
>
>If you have tried to subscribe *or* unsubscribe from any of the
>following email lists using *Internet Explorer* since the announcement of
>the 7 new Email Lists this past weekend, your request was not properly
>received and you should resubmit the request using the Netscape
>Browser, or wait until a solution for the problem with Internet Explorer
>is completed. The Lists affected by the Internet Explorer issue are:
>
> RVCanada-List
> RVEurope-List
> Sailplane-List
> Seaplane-List
> Skymaster-List
> SmithMini-List
> Sonerai-List
> Tailwind-List
> Ultralight-List
> Warbird-List
> Yak-List
> Zenith-List
>
>
>Please note that the Netscape Browser *IS NOT* affected by this problem
>and all lists can be subscribed to and unsubscribed from without a
>problem.
>
>I will post a message to the Lists when I have come up with a solution
>to this problem.
>
>Sorry for the inconvenience,
>
>Matt Dralle
>Matronics Email List Admin.
>--------------
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How To convert Fuse Blocks to RINGS |
>>Would you like to see a way to convert an ATC Fuse Block with Push On Tabs,
>>to use RINGS?
>>AAMR/AirCore Fuse Block With Rings
>
Please don't do this folks. There is no basis either
in 30+ years experience on aircraft (Cessna rocker
switches) nor in the physics of this wiring technology
to shy away from Fast-Ons . . . see:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/faston3.pdf
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dimensions, etc |
Electric Bob, I enjoy your "lessons" on the Rocket List
and subscribe to the "connection".
Thank you sir!
I built a RV4 in the '80's using CB's & copper strips for
busses. I like your fuse panel ideas and would like to mount
2- 10 fuse blocks. I don't know the dimensions or how to
mount them in a Rocket panel. Hinged panel? Could you give
me some suggestions?
Dimensions and other data on the fuse blocks can be
viewed at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/ckrtprot/ckrtprot.html#fuseblock
I'd mount fuseblocks for convenient access for maintenance
activities on the ground. A number of folk have reported
success with various hinged panels . . . I'm not familiar
with or a champion of any particular best way. I'd ask
around the RV-list . . . lots of folk have installed the
fuse blocks on RVs . . .
On Fig. Z-2. With the "Ford " regulator and your crowbar OV,
where does that "Lo V warn" on the main buss go to?
If you don't use a B&C regulator with an active low
volts warning built in, you should provide some alternative.
The long promised LV warning module will show up in
our catalog pretty soon.
Also what alt can I use? I know the B&C products. Great, but kinda
pricey.
. . . but probably the first and last alternator you'll put
on your airplane. In 1500 to 2000 shipments over last
8 or so years, they have yet to hear of or receive their first
return for wearout or failure.
Any others you can suggest? A friend used a mid 80's Chev Sprint
alt w/built in reg and says it works fine.
Lots alternators 'work fine' for awhile. Even certified ones.
Some run lots longer than others. As a general rule however,
I'd stick to alternators with the ND logo on the back. These
are Nipon_Dienso products with exemplary demonstrated service
in aircraft. If you can get one converted to external regulator
and have the rotor precision balanced, all the better.
I read you warning about built in reg's tho.
It is possible and practical to put ov protection on an
alternator with built in regualator. See:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/bleadov.pdf
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Fuse Block Dimensions |
New page showing dimensions of this 10 gang fuse block sold by AAMR and Aero
Electric. Aero Electric
Fuse Block
Dimensions
Best regards,
John @ AAMR/AirCore/Mar
ineCore
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Martin" <fairlea(at)execulink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How To convert Fuse Blocks to RINGS |
I have built two airplanes, one the traditional way with ring connectors,
the second with the "fast on" connectors. I like the second system more and
am convinced that it is as save as the ring connectors. In debates about
this topic it is never mentioned that ring connectors can and do come loose.
If they are installed incorrectly they will get loose. Even routine
maintenance, or someone poking around under the panel could accidently pull
on a wire and pull the ring the wrong way, which has the tendancy to loosen
the screw.
For what is worth I like the fast on connectors.
Tom martin
RV4, HR2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How To convert Fuse Blocks to RINGS |
> . . .message posted by: AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com
>
>>In a message dated 2/19/00 10:34:54 AM Pacific Standard Time,
>>nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com writes:
>>
>> Please don't do this folks. There is no basis either
>> in 30+ years experience on aircraft (Cessna rocker
>> switches) nor in the physics of this wiring technology
>> to shy away from Fast-Ons . . . see:
>Bob:
>I was at the airport in Ellensburg Washington calling on a FOB certified
>aircraft mechanic who was working on a Cessna set of rocker switches in a
>panel.
>
>And as has been true with all the APs I've called on in my capacity with AMP
>and with another company selling Mil Spec Aircraft Rated connectors. His
>couldn't curse those things enough as to what a poor and dangerous choice
>they were for aircraft! His experience...not mine.
Experience or opinion? What were the prevailing conditions that produced
any failures he may have witnessed? Were they conditions that might have
pushed ANY terminal to failure? I've heard many a derogatory remark
about fast-ons, some from folk with a long history aircraft. We have
to insist on knowing the physics behind their opinion or it doesn't
account for much. My hero C.F. Kettering said, "You can know a lot
and yet understand nothing."
If you have reason to discount the fast-on as it applies to the fuse
holders, then you have reason to discount the entire fuse holder.
The same technology is used inside the holder to retain fuses as that
which is used to attach wires to the holder's tabs.
>I sold him some Amp #640917 and #640903 Fastons. Since his regular supplier
>Aircraft parts supplier did not and would not carry this item for usage on
>aircraft.
Again, by what argument of fact does the supplier refuse to carry a
product . . . and was he making his decision based on what he sees
in hardware stores (soft copper, plasti-grip clones) or on PIDG
devices or equal?
>I think we need to look at the generic name of this item "Push Ons...and if
>it will Push On will Pull Off? As I said on the page. Is it hard to come
off,
>YES...Is it impossible that they will come off...NO.
Have you read the piece I published on fast-ons? If your aircraft
is subjected to 1/10th the g-loading required to dislodge one of these
terminals, I'll suggest that loose wiring is the least of your
worries. The last fast-on failure I was told about on a Cessna
rocker was where the pitot-heat switch suffered severe meltdown.
The mechanic thought it was fast-on terminal failure which was
was indeed loose . . . until he took the switch apart and found
badly fried contacts and charing internal to the switch housing
. . . the switch failure killed the fast-on, not the other way
around.
>As usual your opinion is welcome and highly respected. But I really think it
>would be better for you and more informative for us if you addressed from
>what you see wrong with the idea of substituting rings for Push On if it's
an
>easy fix.
>I am not telling folks to "shy away from Fast-Ons", but I am saying there is
>another choice for using ATC Fuse Blocks...Which are a really good simple
>idea. . . . for me I'd rather error on the side of safety.
How is it safer? The joint is now process sensitive to the installer's
"feel" for tightening. You've substituted a threaded fastener with a
definite propensity for loosening under vibration while quality
fast-ons dig in deeper under vibration. You have to be extra careful
not to subject the fuseholder's tabs to mate-up forces (twisting) it
was not designed for . . . if you use metal locknuts, the risk of
damage is still greater.
>Also folks might give AMP a call at 1-800-522-6752 take Que #2 for techical
>service and ask them if the two AMP part #s shown above are spec'd by AMP to
>use on aircraft and then ask them if their rings # 8-36150-1 and # 8-320619-1
> . . .
A tech rep for any company would be foolish to either recommend or
discourage the use of his/her product on "aircraft" or any other
non-quantified application. They should be prepared to offer test
results that qualify their product to some specification but it's
ALWAYS up to the system designer to determine if the intended
use falls inside those criteria. The terms "aircraft quality" and
"suitable for use on aircraft" are meaningless and fraught with
hazard for those who have faith in them.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List: Re: How To convert Fuse Blocks to RINGS |
In a message dated 2/20/00 3:09:45 PM Pacific Standard Time,
nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com writes:
> My hero C.F. Kettering said, "You can know a lot
> and yet understand nothing."
Bob:
Could you please get a little more personnel with your attack your message is
quite not clear.
I really think this is a waste of time and of this fine set of lists that we
have to voice our many and varied opinions on. There is along way between a
lively discussion and this level of personnel attack that you done to me
twice now.
So you win I give up!
Regards,
John @ AAMR/AirCore/Mar
ineCore
(Chick the blue link to go there)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LKDAUDT2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Prop Combination.... |
I just got back from a visit with Mark and Curtis in Taylor Texas. Enjoyed
the day and took a lot of pix. I saw Marks Hartzell 3 blade Simitar
conversion. He says that he has lost nothing at 2100 RPM. Same speed, Same
economy, however he said that
the prop likes 2300 RPM and he hasnt tried that yet to get numbers.
Man!!! that Simitar sure looks cool.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | re: Grounding to airframe . . . |
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "tom tiedman"
>
>I'm wondering if a product like 'alnox' could be used between the electrical
>terminal and the aircraft structure to eliminate corrosion. We use it in
>electrical construction all the time where aluminum conductors terminate at
>lugs in various panels. It is a dark grey electrically conductive paste,
>that we spread all over the bare aluminum end of the conductor before
>inserting it into the lug (lugs may or may not be made of aluminum). It
>keeps the aluminum wire and the lugs from corroding. You could smear a dab
>of it on the side of the terminal that touches the aircraft structure and
>fasten down the terminal. Readily available at any electrical supply house
>worth its salt. I believe their is another brand of the same corrosion
>proofing paste known as 'noalox' available also if memory serves me
>correctly. Tom
It wouldn't hurt. Consider the following:
K
Ba
Sr
Ca
Na
Mg
A (Aluminum)
Mn
Z (Zinc)
Cr
Fe (Iron)
Cd (Cadmium)
Co
Ni (Nickle)
Sn (Tin)
Pb (Lead)
--H-- (Hydrogen)
Sb
As
Bi
Cu (Copper)
Hg (Mercury)
Ag (Silver)
Pd
Pt
Au (Gold)
This is a ranking of the elements in accordance with their
electromotive potential with respect to Hydrogen. The usefulness
of this table is to illustrate the tendency of two materials
to react in each other's presence while in metalic connection
(electrons can flow from one material to the other) and moisture
(atoms can become active in a liquid and combine with other
stuff - like oxygen and in essence rust).
The further apart the two materials are in the table
the more antagonistic they are to each other. Note that aluminum
is quite far removed from copper. Note further that tin is
between the two antagonists. By coating the copper terminals
with a layer of tin plating, the tin provides a buffer
between the aluminum and copper to mitigate their anti-social
tendencies.
"Noalox" and similar products provide some moisture barrier
in the vicinity of a dissimilar metals joint to reduce the
rate of corrosion.
A terminal bolted down to the airframe would probably benefit
from a variety of moisture barriers such as silicon grease,
Vasaline, Noalox or even a coat of paint. If you live in a
humid region of the country, especially coastal regions where
the moisture can contain salt, a little judicious moisture
proofing wouldn't hurt.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LKDAUDT2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Rocket-List Digest: 02/09/00 |
Vince... Thanks for the good information. I will be be leaning toward a new
Hartzell Simitar I think.. Mark has installed one and thinks its good...
7500.oo or so but what the Hey!!!
Stay in touch... Thanks Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LKDAUDT2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Rocket-List Digest: 02/09/00 |
Rob... Thanks so much for all the good information and the phone nos. I did
visit mark and did see his new prop... It seems that the normal/ conventional
blade is slightly disadvantagous, however marks Rocket has a Simitar style
blades and he says that he has lost nothing at 21oo RPM but that the prop
likes 2300 RPM and he hasnt had time to run numbers at 2300 yet.
He also told me that the vibration in his prop is not the prop but somewhere
in the engine. Possibly a loose counterweight somewhere on the crankshaft.
Ground clearance sure is a factor, but smoothness is most important to me
since I will be looking for 1200 miles nonstop with the fuel tanks Im
installing.
Thanks again... Ill keep the info you provided.
Larry #0001
Ps... Yes I am also installing a relief tube.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How To convert Fuse Blocks to RINGS |
>In a message dated 2/20/00 2:23:40 PM Pacific Standard Time,
>nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com writes:
>
>> My hero C.F. Kettering said, "You can know a lot
>> and yet understand nothing."
>
>Bob: I gave up trying to know everything along time ago, it was way to much
>work...how about you?
>
>Regards,
>John
John, My apologies sir if you thought the Kettering quote was
directed at you. My intention was to point out the virtual
ocean of knowledge in which we are immersed. There are thousands
of our fellow citizens who dip from this ocean and splash it
around, not the least of which are "certified mechanics" and
"degreed engineers".
I used to cross paths with a local expert witness in the accident
invesigation business who was a driving school instructor after
having retired from 20+ years as a highway patrolman. His credential
for getting on the witness stand was for having "seen and investigated
tons of accidents." We used to call him "20g Stackley" . . . no
matter how the vehicles behaved or the circumstances of the
collision, an acceleration value of 20g's showed up in the calculations
for EVERY case. He was not only incompetent but could be shown to
lie a lot too . . . none-the-less he enjoyed a pretty successful
career in local courts. We can find plenty of grey-beards roaming
the confines of our airports who are no better at understanding
the physics of what they do than trooper Stackley was.
My fondest wishes for these discussions is to discover the physics
of our art and share the knowledge with the most ludid explanations
we can devise. I was not shucking rocks at you my friend and I truly
regret that it came across in that manner.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List: Re: How To convert Fuse Blocks to RINGS |
In a message dated 2/21/00 7:40:53 AM Pacific Standard Time,
akroguy(at)hotmail.com writes:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Den"
Works for me Brian, thanks for your thoughts.
This thread has certainly drawn some interesting responses and a lot of
thought from the "Lists" both on List and off List.
I don't really think there is only ONE answer and really think that all
points of view need to be expressed freely and thought about when it comes to
being safely airborne.
So everybody keep that gray matter working and open to for input and out put.
There's a Red Green quote in here but due to a senior moment I can't recall
it.
Regards,
John @ AAMR/AirCore/Mar
ineCore
(Chick the blue link to go there)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Noel" <bnoel(at)ausa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: re: Grounding to airframe . . . |
In the gulf we used penetrox on antenna bases to seal against corrosion and
improve connection, it worked great. Also when put on my flashlight batterie
connections the batteries seemed to last longer.
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Date: Sunday, February 20, 2000 10:18 PM
Subject: Rocket-List: re: Grounding to airframe . . .
>
>>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "tom tiedman"
>>
>>I'm wondering if a product like 'alnox' could be used between the
electrical
>>terminal and the aircraft structure to eliminate corrosion. We use it in
>>electrical construction all the time where aluminum conductors terminate
at
>>lugs in various panels. It is a dark grey electrically conductive paste,
>>that we spread all over the bare aluminum end of the conductor before
>>inserting it into the lug (lugs may or may not be made of aluminum). It
>>keeps the aluminum wire and the lugs from corroding. You could smear a dab
>>of it on the side of the terminal that touches the aircraft structure and
>>fasten down the terminal. Readily available at any electrical supply house
>>worth its salt. I believe their is another brand of the same corrosion
>>proofing paste known as 'noalox' available also if memory serves me
>>correctly. Tom
>
> It wouldn't hurt. Consider the following:
>
>K
>Ba
>Sr
>Ca
>Na
>Mg
>A (Aluminum)
>Mn
>Z (Zinc)
>Cr
>Fe (Iron)
>Cd (Cadmium)
>Co
>Ni (Nickle)
>Sn (Tin)
>Pb (Lead)
>--H-- (Hydrogen)
>Sb
>As
>Bi
>Cu (Copper)
>Hg (Mercury)
>Ag (Silver)
>Pd
>Pt
>Au (Gold)
>
> This is a ranking of the elements in accordance with their
> electromotive potential with respect to Hydrogen. The usefulness
> of this table is to illustrate the tendency of two materials
> to react in each other's presence while in metalic connection
> (electrons can flow from one material to the other) and moisture
> (atoms can become active in a liquid and combine with other
> stuff - like oxygen and in essence rust).
>
> The further apart the two materials are in the table
> the more antagonistic they are to each other. Note that aluminum
> is quite far removed from copper. Note further that tin is
> between the two antagonists. By coating the copper terminals
> with a layer of tin plating, the tin provides a buffer
> between the aluminum and copper to mitigate their anti-social
> tendencies.
>
> "Noalox" and similar products provide some moisture barrier
> in the vicinity of a dissimilar metals joint to reduce the
> rate of corrosion.
>
> A terminal bolted down to the airframe would probably benefit
> from a variety of moisture barriers such as silicon grease,
> Vasaline, Noalox or even a coat of paint. If you live in a
> humid region of the country, especially coastal regions where
> the moisture can contain salt, a little judicious moisture
> proofing wouldn't hurt.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> --------------------------------------------
> ( The only time you don't fail is the last )
> ( time you try something, and it works. )
> ( One fails forward toward success. )
> ( C.F. Kettering )
> --------------------------------------------
> http://www.aeroelectric.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Zenith-List: fuses |
In a message dated 2/22/00 8:24:18 AM Pacific Standard Time,
Glen_Worstell(at)notes.seagate.com writes:
> My solution was to make a fuse panel that is mounted
> horizontally below the instrument panel. It is possible
> to change a fuse in flight, but not easy.
Hi Glen:
AAMR/AirCore-Bob
Haan's Fuse Set up. or http://members.aol.com/aamrelectr/Page89.html
Question: Are you looking for a separate common for each fuse? Any particular
reason why? And we have a unit that will meet the requirement but it not on
our site as of yet. It's a stackable that can be built up to as many fuses as
you need. I'll see if I can some photos up if you're interested.
Regards,
John @ AAMR/AirCore/Mar
ineCore
(Chick the blue link to go there)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: CHT Lead Length |
>
>Bob,
>
>I posted this basic question to the RV-list and got no response...
Sorry, I must have missed it. I scan through about 300 pieces
of list-server traffic a day looking for items on which I can
be helpful . . . they slip by from time to time. . .
>I have a single cylinder CHT system. I'd like to buy 3 more thermocouples
>and run four thermocouples to a 4 way switch, then through a ~6" wire to the
>gauge.
>
>I usually see dire warnings about changing the length of the thermocouple
>leads. What's the scoop?
Thermocouple lead length is critical only for the old, self-powered
termocouple instruments of WWII vintage. Many of these instruments
had accessory resistors mounted external to the instrument so that
the installer could change the lead length and then recompensate
using the external resistor. ANY electronic instrument that reads
thermocouples is not so crippled. You can get a short tutorial
on thermocouples at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/excerpt.pdf
>Also, IF I can't do it that way, could I determine a baseline with a CHT
>probe installed per plans, write down those readings, then hook up the
>(innacurate?) 4 cht system with the switch to see relative differences for
>the purpose of balancing CHT's through baffle mod's? After balancing the
>temps, I could go back to the one CHT system.
It's both practical and not too difficult to put a two pole,
4 position switch in your thermocouple pathways following the
guidlines in the above article. To make the termocouple wires
solderable with ordinary tin-lead solder for switch connections
you need to first "tin" the ends with silver solder. The silver
solder will make the thermocouple alloy solderable with ordinary
materials at more benign temperatures friendly to the rotary
switch.
There are commercial, off the shelf thermocouple switches that
allow you to simply strip the wire and capture it under a screw
driven clamp. Most of these are bulky ol' hogs . . . not terribly
friendly to a modern, tightly spaced lightplane panel.
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Kyle Boatright
>
>
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nelson, James" <greg.nelson(at)p42.edwards.af.mil> |
Just wanted everyone to know I received my F-1 Kit #8 about a week ago and I
now have wall to wall airplane parts in my garage. Kit quality is VERY
IMPRESSIVE. Turbo Ted Rutherford let my fly his Rocket the other day and
all the motivation is in-place.
If your thinking about building a Rocket I strongly suggest you get a ride
in one, (but only if your serious about building one!) Be it fast build or
slow build traditional route you can't go wrong with this airplane.
Thanks John, Mark, and Scott for making it all possible.
James G. Nelson, Maj, USAF
Det 2, WR-ALC, U-2 FLIGHT TEST
Greg.Nelson(at)p42.edwards.af.mil
"In God we trust, all others we monitor"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Warren Gretz <warrengretz(at)gretzaero.com> |
list-aerobatic ,
list-aviation ,
list-avionics ,
list-beech ,
list-cessna ,
list-engines ,
list-ez ,
list-glasair ,
list-homebuilt ,
list-lancair ,
list-piper ,
list-rocket ,
list-rvcanada ,
list-seaplane ,
list-tailwind ,
list-warbird ,
list-yak ,
list-zenith
| Subject: | New Gretz Aero website! |
Greetings to all,
I am glad to announce that my new webpage is up and running. If you
would like to see the aircraft products I offer, and the information I
provide on options for equipment installed on aircraft, you may want to
check out my website. Be sure to bookmark this site as it will continue
to grow.
The webpage address is:
http://www.gretzaero.com
I hope you find it interesting.
Warren Gretz
Gretz Aero
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: COZY: Re: CHT Lead Length |
t.au>
>I have a Rocky Mountains engine monitor and plan to set it up to monitor all
>four cht's and egt's. An electronics savvy friend of mine modified a video
>switching/sequencing kit which has 8 small relays so that I could take 8
>thermocouples and drive them through to the monitor and it would cycle
>through each one in turn (with adjustable delay set by a potentiometer).
>I'm just about to install it now. Would you anticipate any problems with
>this set-up?
Can't tell. I think there's a risk that it will not. Video is
generally carried on coaxial cable with all signals sharing
a common ground via chassis connections and shielding. Switching
in this product may well be carried out in manner I've depicted
in Figure 14-7A of the thermocouple article found at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/excerpt.pdf
For error free switching of thermocouples, you need two pole
switching with resonable care to to exactly the same thing to
both sides of the thermocouple path to avoid introduction
of un-compensated new thermocouples that cause error.
>Can I mount it above the radio stack or should I put it
>further away from the panel to avoid any noise getting into the audio
>system?
Thermocouple wiring carries no noise . . . it may be routed
with other wires and close to potential noise victims.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glang007(at)aol.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bayair(at)enternet.co.nz |
I remember reading somewhere this week or fortnight about a 414
intercontinental ferry kit that was used on a regular basis. I am slightly
involved with an operation to ferry a 414 to the USA from NZ and would
love to get some more information about this if possible. The longest
leg is Hawaii on. If anyone can help me with this please contact me off
list. Thanks.
Bill Salt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Hall <tkhall(at)highland.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 414 Ferry Tank |
Check with Phil Boyer (yes, as in AOPA)He took his 340 to Europe a few years
ago and had ferry tanks installed in the cabin. Also, in TAP you will find
tanks that will go into the nacelle lockers.
bayair(at)enternet.co.nz wrote:
>
> I remember reading somewhere this week or fortnight about a 414
> intercontinental ferry kit that was used on a regular basis. I am slightly
> involved with an operation to ferry a 414 to the USA from NZ and would
> love to get some more information about this if possible. The longest
> leg is Hawaii on. If anyone can help me with this please contact me off
> list. Thanks.
>
> Bill Salt
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Elmshoot(at)aol.com |
I have noticed in the last several months Trade a Plane an add for IO-540
G1D5 290 HP.
I called on these and they are on first overhaul with low time <100 hrs.
Removed from some Romanian aircraft in the late 80's. They have been,
"preserved" and include all accessories as well as a matching Hartzel 2 blade
aerobatic prop for around 19k$. I suspect these engines are not suitable
since they most likely are of the wide deck variety as well too heavy and
other fitting problems.
Would someone please confirm these engines a suitable/unsuitable for the
Harmon Rocket or the F-1 Team Rocket?
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hr2pilot(at)aol.com |
Way to heavy and the angel valve engine won't fit inside the cowl on the
Harmon Rocket.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Chasnoff" <DChasnoff(at)compuserve.com> |
Tom,
I received an e-mail from you off list that appears to contain a worm virus.
I have lost your address so this is the only way I could reach you. It had a
file attached to it called pretty park. All should not open this if you get
it. I did not and after deleting it does not appear to have caused any
problems. Time will tell. If Tom is no longer on does anyone have contact
info for him?
David
________________________________________________________________________________
Tom Martin=fairlead(at)execulink.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Pete Hudes <phudes(at)gte.net> |
I have an Alcor 6 probe EGT for sale. It has a single indicator with a 6
position switch to monitor all cylinders. It was working when I took it
out of my Bonanza last month. I will sell it to the highest bidder.
Pete Hudes
Thinking real hard about a Rocket
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Terry Coles RV Photo |
Lister:
I just put up a photo of Terry Cole's RV on our home page. WAY TO GO
TERRY...Great choice of colors!
Click the blue link below if you care to see it
Regards,
John @ AAMR/AirCore/Mar
ineCore
(http://members.aol.com/aamrelectr/index.html)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Book status and Groton Seminar Info |
Got shipped to Charlottesville VA early this week and didn't
get as much done on R9 book as I'd planned but I've got the
work in the laptop and we're making good use of the 6 mile
high office. Leaving again in the morning for Groton CT for
our second weekend seminar of the year. If anyone not already
registered chooses to attend you're welcome to just show up.
We're doing something a little different this trip. We've got
a suitcase full of tools that will be used for some real time
demonstrations. Attendee names will be drawn for taking some
of them home.
>The directions to Survival Systems at the Groton, CT airport are as follows:
>From the North ( Providence, RI): RT 95 South > take Exit 88 > Left onto RT
>117 > follow to end > at "T" turn right onto US 1 South > (follow signs to
>Groton Airport) > turn Left onto Tower Ave.
>
> Survival Systems is the large Blue Bldg across from the terminal.
>
>
>>From the South (New York): RT 95 North > take Exit 88 > at the bottom of
the
>exit ramp take a Right > follow to end > at "T" turn right onto US 1 South >
>(follow signs to Groton Airport) > turn Left onto Tower Ave.
>
> Survival Systems is the large Blue Bldg across from the terminal.
>
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | c130h2(at)flash.net |
Last time I listed this engine it was a big unknown. Lookers were skeptical,
fair enough.
OK we heard you, and eliminated the doubt. Engine is currently disassembled so
all this
can be seen.
Available:
IO 540 C4B5
Yellow tagged items: Crank case, Crankshaft, Cam shaft, Lifters and lifter bodies,
Rods,
Mags.
New AD'd oil pump
Reconditioned starter
Jugs - 400 hours on chrome.
Page 501 219 5203 if you are interested.
Best Regards,
Mark Julicher
Marietta GA.
________________________________________________________________________________
I am interested, but I would like to know more about engine. ALso what are
you asking for it.
CHirs Wilcox
f-1 builder
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MBragg001(at)cs.com |
Could you please tell me the total time on case ? Thanks Medford
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | c130h2(at)flash.net |
Sorry I don't have the logs on the engine, they are three states away
from me. Please call the owner.
Jack Odom 501.843.7846.
Best Regards,
Mark Julicher
MBragg001(at)cs.com wrote:
>
> Could you please tell me the total time on case ? Thanks Medford
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hr2pilot(at)aol.com |
Two new Rockets have been signed off for flight, Warren Rice in Pason, AZ and
Dallas Benham Lyons, IN. Congradulations that makes 53.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New Rockets- Factory Personnel |
What is the current line-up people wise at F1-Rocket factory ? I think I read
the one principal has moved on to a related endeavour and is not with
F-1........
Hr2pilot(at)aol.com on 03/15/2000 09:12:58 AM
Please respond to rocket-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Rocket-List: New Rockets
Two new Rockets have been signed off for flight, Warren Rice in Pason, AZ and
Dallas Benham Lyons, IN. Congradulations that makes 53.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
Sorry John, I confused F-1 with Harmon Rockets. It was one of those events that
as I was pushing the send key my brain was saying WRONG......... My question
should go to F-1 Team Rocket folk(s)..
Hr2pilot(at)aol.com on 03/15/2000 09:12:58 AM
Please respond to rocket-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Rocket-List: New Rockets
Two new Rockets have been signed off for flight, Warren Rice in Pason, AZ and
Dallas Benham Lyons, IN. Congradulations that makes 53.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | New Rockets- Factory Personnel |
In a message dated 3/15/2000 8:31:35 AM Central Standard Time,
pcondon(at)csc.com writes:
<< What is the current line-up people wise at F1-Rocket factory ? I think I
read
the one principal has moved on to a related endeavour and is not with
F-1........ >>
Hi Phil:
That's correct. Scott Brown has decided to pursue other avenues (unrelated to
Team Rocket). All Team Rocket business has been moved to the Texas location,
so please address correspondence to that location:
Team Rocket Inc
80 CR 406
Taylor, TX 76574
512-365-8131
mark(at)teamrocketaircraft.com
Check Six!
Mark Frederick, Pres.
Team Rocket Inc
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gummos" <tg1965(at)linkline.com> |
John,
Please pass on my "AT A BOYS" to Warren and Dallas. Wish I was there too.
Hoping to be number 50 something, this summer.
Tom
> Two new Rockets have been signed off for flight, Warren Rice in Pason, AZ
and
> Dallas Benham Lyons, IN. Congradulations that makes 53.
> John
________________________________________________________________________________
by mail.eaze.net with SMTP; 16 Mar 2000 04":19:39.-0000(at)matronics.com
All Rocketeers,
Just want to pass on my experiences with the F-1 project. Several
months ago, a good friend and I flew our Stationair into Macho Grande
to visit Mark Frederick and the F-1 facilities. What we saw there was a
very neat well organized operation, Mark's Rocket, the Exxon Rocket and
a couple of RV's. What we got was a ride in Mark's aircraft that left
us both smiling all the way home. If you are undecided and want to make
your mind up about what to build, just fly a Rocket.
I had just about made my decision to work toward building a Rocket, but
still had some concerns over the quality of the F-1 airframes being
built in the Czech Republic. A few weeks ago I returned to Taylor Texas
to inspect three F-1 kits that had just arrived. I found the quality on
all three airframes to be exceptional. The pieces were well formed,
precisely fitted and it was obvious that a great deal of care was taken
during their assembly. I need no further convincing, now it is just a
matter of time and money. About a month from now I will close the sale
of a business that I have owned and operated for the past 24 years, and
plan to enter into a state of simi-retirement. Perhaps a Rocket is in
my future.
Thank you Mark for your generous hospitality and good luck with the move
of all Team Rocket business to Taylor.
Check Six,
Doug Fuss
Fort Worth, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Martin" <fairlea(at)execulink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Florida trip |
Well what a great time my 11 year old son and I had! Friends had
invited us to visit them in Florida for a few days. The weather was good on
Sunday so with the Rocket loaded away we went. There was a heavy layer of
snow and slush at home so the wheel pants had to come off. For you southern
flyers the problem is that slush will get in the pant and freeze the wheel
with altitude, then when you land the wheel and the pant turn together! Not
a pretty picture.
We departed St.Thomas Ontario, CYQS, cleared customs at Detroit City
and made our way to Lebannon TN, M54, for fuel. Then non stop to
Clearwater, CLW. This took 5.6 flight hours and covered 1014.8 nm. The
weather in Clearwater was perfect, and we enjoyed two days on the beach
watching the scenery! The return trip yesterday was more direct with one
stop in Toccoa Ga, TOC, and Sandusky Oh, SKY to arrange customs and file a
flight plan. Half an hour later we were home, We had left CLW at 8:00am
and arrived home in St.Thomas, CANADA at 2:30pm, 5.3 flight hours and 925
nms. Over the whole trip we averaged ground speeds of 180nm per hour
burning 11.7 gph of fuel, and this without wheel pants!
Once again my rocket has taken me on a great cross country and my son
has a greater appreciation for north america. What other airplane of this
type could cover so much ground in such comfort at these speeds.
Tom Martin
-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Williams <7ecapilot(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Harmon Rocket vs. F1 TeamRocket |
Is there a direct relationship between these two planes? Seems like you
folks express a difference between them.
Just lurkin'
tw
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Harmon Rocket vs. F1 TeamRocket |
In a message dated 3/16/2000 10:20:11 PM Central Standard Time,
tg1965(at)linkline.com writes:
<< As I understand it, Team Rocket wanted to get on board with John and make
and sell a Rocket QB. Somewhere there was the parting of the ways. While
Team Rocket started with the Harmon design, they felt that they designed
their own plane so it is not really a Harmon Rocket and therefore don't
associate with John any longer.
Hi Terry:
TG puts it correctly. We wanted to use existing parts to assemble QB kits,
but the parts were not usable for production line work. That is NOT to say
that the parts cannot be used to build an airplane -- I have one started from
these parts myself! But in order to produce the ships efficiently enough to
make a production run feasible, every part had to be examined and reworked.
Therefore, there is no parts interchangeability between the two.
But to answer your question: what is the difference? The F 1 is a QB kit,
where the HR is built up from a combination of two different manufacturers
kits, with other parts coming from other suppliers. There's more...
As I stated above, we examined every part, and reworked as needed to get a
good fit. We also changed a few things to make the kits easier to build, and
some other small (but important) changes to allow for a bit more strength
(wing spar, landing gear). We also moved the axle centerline fwd 1 3/8" to
get a bit more weight on the tailwheel. Our kit uses a sliding canopy as
standard equipment. We re-lofted the airfoil to a true 23000 series, taking
away the changes Van put into the nose rib. This may or may not be detectable
in normal operations (pilot technique, fit & finish, loading, engine tuning,
etc., are more likely reasons for performance differences).
I wanted to be able to supply a complete kit, and I'm very close at this
point. I also wanted that kit to be the very best available -- we've hit that
goal. Have a look at the product -- as delivered, the inside is open for
inspection. I'm confident that what you see will please you.
snip
As far as the planes go, I guess the performance is the same and I don't
think most of us could tell the difference from a distance.
>>
The F 1 will have a distinctive cowl and a sliding canopy. If the Team Rocket
emp is used (the Van's emp will also fit up), the appearance will be more
distinctive. Other differences are more subtle, and not easily seen from a
distance.
I cannot comment on performance until we get two similiar ships flying side
by side.
I hope this helps to answer your questions!
Check Six!
Mark Frederick, Pres.
Team Rocket Inc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LKDAUDT2(at)aol.com |
You will not be disappointed in your F-1. I guarantee it... Larry #0001
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Our e-mail server crashed |
Our e-mail server was out from Wednesday night last until late
Friday afternoon. Items directed to me were NOT spooled. Letters
direct to me during that interval went into the black
hole of cyberspace . . .
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Battery Cable Rental Kit. |
Hello Listers:
I've put up the first Rental Kit. It's for Battery Cables. You can it at AAMR/AirCore/ Battery
Cables or http://members.aol.com/aamrelectr/Page23.html
Please take a look and let me know what you think. Other Kits are coming soon.
Regards,
John @ AAMR/AirCore/Mar
ineCore
(Chick the blue link to go there)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LKDAUDT2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rocket builder's insurance |
Ive used Avemco for coverage on airpllanes Ive owned in the past... They have
always been fair with me.. sounds like an OKAY deal to me...
Larry F-1 #0001
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Deffner" <deffner(at)glade.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rocket builder's insurance |
Rocketeers, I got a really good deal on builders insurance for my F1, from
the Forest Ins. Ag. I recall it being $370 for $50K coverage. Team Rocket
was impressed also as to the good rate. I don't have their # now, but T.R.
does
David Deffner #0005, N212TR south of Dallas
----------
> From: LKDAUDT2(at)aol.com
> To: rocket-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Rocket-List: Rocket builder's insurance
> Date: Thursday, March 23, 2000 8:29 PM
>
>
> Ive used Avemco for coverage on airpllanes Ive owned in the past... They
have
> always been fair with me.. sounds like an OKAY deal to me...
> Larry F-1 #0001
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Deffner" <deffner(at)glade.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rocket builder's insurance |
Forgot to suggest shopping for $. There was a big difference in $ from
different companys. David
----------
> From: David Deffner <deffner(at)glade.net>
> To: rocket-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Rocket-List: Rocket builder's insurance
> Date: Monday, March 27, 2000 9:06 AM
>
>
> Rocketeers, I got a really good deal on builders insurance for my F1,
from
> the Forest Ins. Ag. I recall it being $370 for $50K coverage. Team
Rocket
> was impressed also as to the good rate. I don't have their # now, but
T.R.
> does
> David Deffner #0005, N212TR south of Dallas
>
> ----------
> > From: LKDAUDT2(at)aol.com
> > To: rocket-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: Rocket-List: Rocket builder's insurance
> > Date: Thursday, March 23, 2000 8:29 PM
> >
> >
> > Ive used Avemco for coverage on airpllanes Ive owned in the past...
They
> have
> > always been fair with me.. sounds like an OKAY deal to me...
> > Larry F-1 #0001
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rocket builder's insurance |
As a insurance agent, I can write the insurance myslef and i also looked
elsewhere as being sort of cheap. This are my experiences while trying to
insurance my F-1 with a builders risk policy, Value of 30,000 increase to
100,000 at time of compliation.
Most companies $900 to insurance a rocket in the building stage.
Forrest agency around $500 for 40,000 of coverage. I have to call in any
increases of value. . Have to be a member of IAC. THey also will not
insurance low time pilots to fly a rocket with out 50 hours tail dragger
time. THey want alteast 20 in a Pitts rocket or equivilant. RV 4 is not
close enough. Poor agency as I had to call them 5 times to get a quote.
Avemco, I have called them 4 times and will try again later today. However
the F-1 is not an approved aircraft with them at this time. Or so I have
been told by the person i have spoken to. Also I havent yet been able to get
info on their policy.
I ended up calling a freind who owns a surplus lines agency and we made a
deal. I insuraned my aircraft for 80,000 labor included for $515 a year.
the minimum premium is 500 dollars hence the 80,000 in value i dont need yet.
I know that this is not an option for most people.
One thing to keep in mind also is that tools are not covered under some of
these policies nor will your homeowners cover them if there in your hanger.
You can cover your tools under you hanger insurance policy though.
Also as more rockets start flying the costs will go done if we are careful.
In my opionion forrest agency is the place to go right now for builders risk
policies. However I do not know what the avemco policy looks like or is
priced at. Once you get flying and you are low on hours forrest might not be
the place to go. I know they told me they will not insurnace me flying my
rocket with out 20 hours high performance tail dragger time and 500 hours
total time. I wont have it since i will not build over 480 hours of flight
time in the next year it takes me to finish my rocket. I will pay more at
first but i knew that going into this. But it can be done.
If anyone has insurance questions, I will be happy to answer them. But as
for builders insurance I am not the place to go right now. Hanger insurance
in the midwest I am the place to go or for life insurance with no riders for
pilots.
Chris Wilcox, President
CGW Insurance/Investments
927 Alpine Court
Oshkosh, WI 54901
(920) 235-1082
www.cgwi.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Martin" <fairlea(at)execulink.com> |
This is HR2 is my third project, the first was a RV4 and the second a
Harmon Rocket. Most of the dimensions on these planes are just guide lines
and you really have to just make the parts fit. There are a few critical
ones though, and the one I am working on now is the placement of the rear
spar attach point on the fuselage.
For those of you who have worked in this area you are aware that with
the floor boards clamped on the whole thing is kind of like a house of
cards. The rear floor ribs are John Harmons' and the front ones from Vans'.
To get the dimensions that you need, and keep the floor smooth is a piece of
work.
Yesterday I took a different approach. I used threaded rod from the
main spar back to the rear spar pickup and another threaded rod down to the
main longerons. One set of rods on each side of the fuse. Now I can fix
this critical piece where I want it and make the ribs fit the space. It
makes it very easy to adjust this part back and forth and up and down. This
has made a big difference in accuracy and the time needed to do the job.
Tom Martin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gummos" <tg1965(at)linkline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: building tip |
Tom,
This has to stop. It is the first building tip I can remember seeing on the
Rocket List. Thanks, however, way too late for me.
Tom Gummo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Mokry <RobMokry(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Rocket Builders Insurance |
Avemco $90K builders coverage, $200 deductable in motion/not in motion.
$0 liability/Medical--Annual premium $562 (Harmon Rocket)
Get involved in the EAA Tech Counselor program!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jjbaker <jjbaker(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Rocket Kit for sale |
Gentlemen,
I have a rocket QB kit ordered for some time with the initial payment
made of 1000.00 to reserve a slot. Suffice it to say that with the
death of my parents and the loss of a job, I have decided to hold off
for my dream plane. I will continue to make IO-540 noises from my car
in the interim, and will practice 4000+ fpm climbs by shooting myself
from a cannon, which I've made from recovered 55 gallon barrels in my
yard.
If you are interested in the F-1 Rocket, quit waiting and take my slot.
Fully anodized, titanium gear, beautiful design, hand made by former
Daimler-Benz midgets specifically bread during the war to fit inside the
fuselage for bucking rivets. (Ok the last one is a lie) You'll have a
kit approximately 60-90 days from today, instead of a 6-8 month (or
long) waiting period. Take my slot and pay me later, but contact me off
list if your interested.
Jason Baker
P.S. If you haven't seen the latest on the kits, go to
www.teamrocketaircraft.com for a real thrill.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fouga434(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rocket Kit for sale |
HI
I MAYBE INTERESTED WHERE DO YOU LIVE?
NICK
? WHAT WAS YOUR FINAL RICE TAG FOR THE KIT WITH TEAM ROCKET?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bendix injection |
In a message dated 3/30/2000 10:38:45 AM Central Standard Time,
VFrazier(at)usi.edu writes:
<< I want to have my Bendix injection system, which came from a salvage yard,
tested and overhauled (if necessary). Anybody care to recommend an
overhauler. >>
Hi Vince:
I recommend Airflow Performance for this task. Don will work with you to get
you what you want. Call him at: 864-576-4512
Regards
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jjbaker <jjbaker(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Rocket QB for sale |
All (who have asked or toss at night wondering)
I think I am Kit number 26, but Mark will probably respond and give me
the number. I let somebody who wanted to "move up" take my number,
which was originally 24.
JB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Martin" <fairlea(at)execulink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bendix injection |
I had airflow performance work on my Bendix. I was pleased with the work
done and the unit has behaved perfectly for 250 hours. Call 864-576-4512
for professional help.
Tom martin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jjbaker <jjbaker(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rocket Kit for sale |
I'm not selling a kit, just my slot...I put $1000 down six months ago...
I'm in Nor Cal. Kit is $28 K for the QB.
Fouga434(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> HI
> I MAYBE INTERESTED WHERE DO YOU LIVE?
> NICK
> ? WHAT WAS YOUR FINAL RICE TAG FOR THE KIT WITH TEAM ROCKET?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
| Subject: | NOTICE: Matronics Web Server Back Online... |
Dear Email Listers,
The Matronics Web and FTP server is finally back online! What a
nightmare... But at least its finally done and in all honesty the
system is running much better. Everything should be working now
including the Search Engine, Archive Browser, various List-related
pages, Matronics Product Pages, Online Ordering, Real Video server
and Contribution pages.
Again, I'm sorry it took so long to get things back - way longer than I
ever intended.
Have fun!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | The RG battery has come to WalMart . . . |
As I was passing by the automotive battery rack in my
local WalMart yesterday, a particular product caught
my eye . . . it was a fairly heafty battery with the
grain-elevator like collection of cylindrical cell
housings.
I picked up a flyer on what is called the EverStart
Ultra, a totally sealed, jelly-roll style construction
RG battery. This is a big beast. I would guess it
to be between 25 and 35 a.h. in capacity. Can't
recommend this battery for many airplane applications.
The noteworthy points of this find are (1) RG technology
has found it's way into the most rudimentary of consumer
product streams and (2) the thing sells for $75. The
next thing to watch for is a line of smaller batteries
with the same technology for use in garden equipment
and perhaps even motorcycles.
Of course we don't know who makes this particular battery
for WalMart . . . it has the look and feel of an Optima
but given the age of the original patents by Gates
Energy Products on the Cyclon series jelly-roll cells,
this battery could be made by anybody. Only a test
in the marketplace will tell us if this battery is
worth the lead and plastic that holds it together.
It's not here yet but I believe it's a matter of time
before you can buy a better airplane battery from your
local WalMart than you can buy from any FBO . . .
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russ Werner" <russ(at)maui.net> |
| Subject: | Avemco coming around? |
From AvWeb:
Avemco Insurance, the only direct writer of personal and business
general aviation aircraft insurance in the U.S., announced the
expansion of their already large portfolio of homebuilt aircraft to
allow coverage for those previously restricted.
______________
Could this mean they are writing for the hrII now?
Russ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Avemco coming around? |
In a message dated 4/10/2000 12:31:17 PM Central Daylight Time, russ(at)maui.net
writes:
<< From AvWeb:
Avemco Insurance, the only direct writer of personal and business
general aviation aircraft insurance in the U.S., announced the
expansion of their already large portfolio of homebuilt aircraft to
allow coverage for those previously restricted.
______________
Could this mean they are writing for the hrII now?
Russ
>>
Russ,
I quess you should have paid attention to the list about 2 weeks ago.
YES avemco will write the HRII and the F-1 rocket both for inflight and
builders risk.
In fact they are the place to go for the builders risk policy as they are the
cheapest by far.
I am not sure about the inflight coverage as I have yet to compare a flying
f1 or HR II yet.
Chris Wilcox
CGW Insurance/Investments, Inc.
927 Alpine Court
Oshkosh, WI 54901
(920) 235-1082
(920) 235-1083 Fax
www.cgwi.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | We've got books! |
Just got a call from our printer . . . fresh Rev 9 books
are coming out the end of the pipe. Anyone who has a book
ordered with us or Andy Gold can expect to see it in the
mail pretty soon. Books will start leaving here tomorrow,
Andy will have his books probably by Friday.
Thank you all for your patience. BTW, the price of the
book has gone down. We increased the size of the first
printing and the print shop gave us a better price. We're
passing that savings on to our customers.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul & Gerti RV-4 F-1 006" <gertivs(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | New Russian Import |
Met Skip Holm of National Air Race fame this afternoon. He was on a gas
stop ferrying a Spitfire to a new owner in Canada.
Made a point to us onlookers that he will be importing a new Russian built
sport plane beginning next month. Plane is about the size of a T-34 and
looks alot like a Bearcat. The wing and skins are thick and strong enough
to walk on! The new plane name is Bear, company is Bear Aerospace. (I
guess because of its resemblance to a Bearcat and the Russian Bear.) It is
powered by the M-14 360 hp radial. Expects it to out fly a stock Mustang.
Loud, fast, good looks and $125,000 ready to go.
So were am I going with this thread?
Just dream of the possibility of Bear/HRII match at Reno. Rare Bear II vs
Strega II !!!!
Paul
Modesto, CA
Click here for FREE Internet Access and Email
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MACH3702(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rocket-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 04/11/00 |
Please tell me how to "unscribe" to your services.
Thanks,
Larry Head
________________________________________________________________________________
Here's a message I received after recounting your email to Fren
Ihlenberg. Do you have any information for him?
Jim Ivey
> Any idea of how to get in touch with Skip Holm? I would really like to
> see
> or learn more about this "Bear".
>
> Isn't it always the way. I have spent a year trying to get this new CJII
> in
> the air and I am really proud of the "new" aircraft. It will have
> totally
> enclosed gear with a neat new air scoop that ends just forward of the
> flap,
> similar to the Russian Lavotchkin. Now along comes something advertised to
> be $125K brand new that out flys a stock Mustang on a 360 hp engine. Am I
> missing the boat somewhere?
>
> Just curious, but as an engineer, please tell me what speeds you might
> expect from an aircraft powered by a 360 hp engine with wings and skins
> "thick and strong enough to walk on." If it is Russian it must have
> rivets
> sticking out all over, I am really confused. If its a tail dragger I will
> slit my wrists. Fred
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nelson, James" <greg.nelson(at)p42.edwards.af.mil> |
I don't remember the exact details, but just for fun years ago I did a study
on what it would take to go 500 MPH on 300 HP. I assumed normal, but clean
drag numbers and came up with something like 3 sq feet of frontal area. Now
try to imagine a 300 HP engine, and a pilot stuffed behind 3 sq feet.....It
isn't going to happen and we still need a wing. This is why the truly
fast(like over 500 MPH) airplanes are on the large side.
Greg Nelson
F-1 #8
> -----Original Message-----
> From: jim(at)jimivey.com [SMTP:jim(at)jimivey.com]
> Sent: Thursday, 13 April, 2000 8:38 AM
> To: gertivs(at)netzero.net; rocket-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Rocket-List: Bear
>
>
> Here's a message I received after recounting your email to Fren
> Ihlenberg. Do you have any information for him?
>
> Jim Ivey
>
>
> > Any idea of how to get in touch with Skip Holm? I would really like to
> > see
> > or learn more about this "Bear".
> >
> > Isn't it always the way. I have spent a year trying to get this new
> CJII
> > in
> > the air and I am really proud of the "new" aircraft. It will have
> > totally
> > enclosed gear with a neat new air scoop that ends just forward of the
> > flap,
> > similar to the Russian Lavotchkin. Now along comes something advertised
> to
> > be $125K brand new that out flys a stock Mustang on a 360 hp engine. Am
> I
> > missing the boat somewhere?
> >
> > Just curious, but as an engineer, please tell me what speeds you might
> > expect from an aircraft powered by a 360 hp engine with wings and skins
> > "thick and strong enough to walk on." If it is Russian it must have
> > rivets
> > sticking out all over, I am really confused. If its a tail dragger I
> will
> > slit my wrists. Fred
> >
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Schneider" <schneider.larry(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | rocketII project for sale |
have a rocket II through canopy and gear for sale. schneider.larry(at)att.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "Nelson, James" <greg.nelson(at)p42.edwards.af.mil>
Sent: Thursday, April 13, 2000 9:54 AM
Subject: RE: Rocket-List: Bear
>
> I don't remember the exact details, but just for fun years ago I did a
study
> on what it would take to go 500 MPH on 300 HP. I assumed normal, but
clean
> drag numbers and came up with something like 3 sq feet of frontal area.
Now
> try to imagine a 300 HP engine, and a pilot stuffed behind 3 sq
feet.....It
> isn't going to happen and we still need a wing. This is why the truly
> fast(like over 500 MPH) airplanes are on the large side.
>
> Greg Nelson
> F-1 #8
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: jim(at)jimivey.com [SMTP:jim(at)jimivey.com]
> > Sent: Thursday, 13 April, 2000 8:38 AM
> > To: gertivs(at)netzero.net; rocket-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Rocket-List: Bear
> >
> >
> > Here's a message I received after recounting your email to Fren
> > Ihlenberg. Do you have any information for him?
> >
> > Jim Ivey
> >
> >
> > > Any idea of how to get in touch with Skip Holm? I would really like
to
> > > see
> > > or learn more about this "Bear".
> > >
> > > Isn't it always the way. I have spent a year trying to get this new
> > CJII
> > > in
> > > the air and I am really proud of the "new" aircraft. It will have
> > > totally
> > > enclosed gear with a neat new air scoop that ends just forward of the
> > > flap,
> > > similar to the Russian Lavotchkin. Now along comes something
advertised
> > to
> > > be $125K brand new that out flys a stock Mustang on a 360 hp engine.
Am
> > I
> > > missing the boat somewhere?
> > >
> > > Just curious, but as an engineer, please tell me what speeds you might
> > > expect from an aircraft powered by a 360 hp engine with wings and
skins
> > > "thick and strong enough to walk on." If it is Russian it must have
> > > rivets
> > > sticking out all over, I am really confused. If its a tail dragger I
> > will
> > > slit my wrists. Fred
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MACH3702(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rocket-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 04/12/00 |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Ft Worth Seminar . . . |
The next seminar on the summer schedule is in Ft. Worth where
George and Becky Orndorff are hosting this event for the third
year. Hotel and location data for the program have been posted
on our website at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/seminars.html
Individuals who have signed up for this program will be
contacted in the next 10 days to finalize your registration.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cctj001 {Thomas J. Linscomb}" <cctj001(at)forum.cc.utexas.edu> |
| Subject: | Introduction and Status update |
Hello Rocketeers:
Just a short note to introduce myself and give a status report. My name
is Thomas Linscomb, and I took the plunge to build a Team Rocket F-1 Rocket
at the beginning of the year. I am a novice builder with a degree in
Mechanical Engineering and 20 years in computer management.
The current status for the project is in the order phase. I have recently
made my building downpayment and F-1 #24 is scheduled for delivery in mid
July along with aircrafts #21, #22, and #23.
As the project goes along, I will be putting up a builders web log and
trying to post to the list any knowlege that comes my way. I want to thank
those who have posted notes in the past and encourage those that have been
reading to throw in a hint or status report now and then.
--Thomas
--Thomas J. Linscomb
--aka linscomb(at)forum.cc.utexas.edu
--Member EAA Chapter 187
--Team Rocket F-1 Rocket #24
--Status: Delivery scheduled for July 2000
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | World's lightest alternator . . . |
Response to the mini-article we did for an all electric
airplane on a budget has been strong. We've decided to stock
the world's lightest (3.5#) alternator as the low cost key
to a practical all electric panel.
see http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/allelect.pdf
and http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/alterntr/alterntr.html#sd8
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Knight <knightair(at)lv.rmci.net> |
| Subject: | Knight Aircraft Upholstery Products |
Rocket Builders:
I have moved to Las Vegas and am now back on line. Please note my new
telephone number and e-mail address. Thank you for your patience!
I have been in the upholstery business for 28 years and have been making
upholstery products for kitplanes for 16 years. I have interior kits
available for the Harmon Rocket. I also have cabin covers and other items.
I am the supplier of upholstery products for several kitplane manufacturers.
A list of other kitplane interior products available upon request.
For more information, call Knight Aircraft Interiors, Inc., at (702)
207-6681 or e-mail me at knightair(at)lv.rmci.net. If you e-mail for
information, please mention either "Knight" or "Upholstery" in your
reference line so I can give your request my immediate attention. Photos
available upon request.
Sincerely,
KNIGHT AIRCRAFT INTERIORS, INC.
"Fly by Knight" Upholstery Products
Sam Knight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gummos" <tg1965(at)linkline.com> |
"Rocket List"
| Subject: | Flying RV-6A For Sale |
Hello Listers,
For those who might want the ultimate Quick Built (i.e. it is flying), check
out Wendell's RV-6A. The details can be found at the following site. Plus,
there are several pictures and info of how to contact him.
http://hometown.aol.com/hoatsons/index.htm
I have flown in this plane several times and it produces the RV grin
everytime. Even with the 150 HP engine and fixed prop, it has carried the
both of us (250+) guys from Big Bear Airport (density Alt of over 9000) on a
hot summer day with no problems.
Anyway, please contact him as anything sent to me will be delayed as I
forward it on.
Tom Gummo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dylan Caldwell <macquistan(at)ameritech.net> |
Is it just my browser or have other people been having trouble with Ken
Fowler's web site??
Dylan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hr2pilot(at)aol.com |
Congradulations to Brien McMullan Ontario Canada and Dallas Benham Lyons IN
# 52 & 53 ,have fun and don't do anything DUMB.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Potterlaw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rocket-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 04/27/00 |
I was wondering if anyone can compare the IFR capabilities of a Rocket to a
RV 4, RV 6 or RV 8. Of course, I am assuming similar instruments. It seems
to me that b/c the Rocket has slightly smaller wings it would ride a little
better in turbulence. Also, it seems that the additional climb capability,
speed and range would allow easier/longer deviations around weather.
Anyone have any thoughts?
Mark Potter
825 NE Multnomah, Suite 935
Portland, OR 97232
503-872-7090
E-mail: Potterlaw(at)aol.com
Mpotterlaw.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: IFR operations |
In a message dated 4/28/00 11:55:37 AM Central Daylight Time,
Potterlaw(at)aol.com writes:
<< It seems
to me that b/c the Rocket has slightly smaller wings it would ride a little
better in turbulence. Also, it seems that the additional climb capability,
speed and range would allow easier/longer deviations around weather. >>
Hi Mark:
The Rocket makes a fine IFR ship. And, you are correct about the ride being
better -- MUCH better!
A wing leveler would be an asset while reading charts and programming the
approaches into your GPS.
Check Six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hr2pilot(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | One more Rocket II |
Congratulations To Warren Rice from Prescott AZ # 54.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
User-Agent: Microsoft Outlook Express Macintosh Edition - 5.0 (1513)
| From: | KAOS <kaos(at)captainkaos.com> |
on 28/4/00 9:48 PM, Dylan Caldwell at macquistan(at)ameritech.net wrote:
>
> Is it just my browser or have other people been having trouble with Ken
> Fowler's web site??
>
> Dylan
--
http://www.captainkaos.com
kaos(at)captainkaos.com
pig(at)captainkaos.com
works better with Netscape
internet explorer don't do it justice
he need to look at the html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gummos" <tg1965(at)linkline.com> |
"RV List"
Hello,
I was starting to work on my fuel system and wanted a fuel filter for my IO
engine. Aircraft Spruce and Van's have filters which state "NOT FOR FUEL
INJECTION SYSTEMS." Spruce has one for with number 6 fittings but costs 89
dollars. It had a name of Flow Ezy so I did a web search and found they had
a site.
http://www.freeyellow.com/members3/flowezy/
Look under Racing Filters. It look like just what I want and at half the
price of ACS.
Filter 43.xx
Replacement screens 3.90
New O-Ring 3.00
It also has replacable or cleanable screens. The model I looked at had a 2
gpm (120 gallons per hours) hope my fuel flow never gets that high. Good
to 250 psi, my pump is rated at 25 or 35, I wil have to look that up but
seems to be plenty.
Anybody, tried one of these? Or any word on the Flow Ezy company?
Thanks,
Tom Gummo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
| Subject: | PLEASE READ: Network Problems To Matronics... |
Dear Listers,
My ISP is upgrading their network today 4/30 and tomorrow 5/1. I
noticed that Nameservice (DNS) went down last night around 3am which
causes all sorts of problems. If your message post was rejected between
about 3am 4/30 and 1pm 4/30, please repost as it was rejected do to the
DNS being down. I've redirected my systems to a different DNS server in
the mean time and things seem to be working right now. In any case, be
aware that there may be continuing issues over the next couple of days
both posting email messages and accessing the web server.
My ISP *promises* that things are going to be so much better after the
upgrade! We'll see... ;-)
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Great minds discuss ideas,
Average minds discuss events,
Small minds discuss people...
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi Tom:
Sounds like you're getting close!!
You won't need a high press. filter if it's on the suction side. I use 2 3/8"
inline auto filters ($4 ea) -- 1 on ea tank line, before the selector. I
figure if one plugs up, I have another.
Don at Airflow recommends a 40 micron filter -- no better. He also asys one
is enough.
Regards
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rocket-list-server(at)matronics.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Martin" <fairlea(at)execulink.com> |
Tom
You can use the standard gascolator if you plumb it in the system before
the boost pump.
Tom Martin
>
>Hello,
>
>I was starting to work on my fuel system and wanted a fuel filter for my IO
>engine. Aircraft Spruce and Van's have filters which state "NOT FOR FUEL
>INJECTION SYSTEMS." Spruce has one for with number 6 fittings but costs 89
>dollars. It had a name of Flow Ezy so I did a web search and found they
had
>a site.
>
>http://www.freeyellow.com/members3/flowezy/
>
>Look under Racing Filters. It look like just what I want and at half the
>price of ACS.
>Filter 43.xx
>Replacement screens 3.90
>New O-Ring 3.00
>
>It also has replacable or cleanable screens. The model I looked at had a 2
>gpm (120 gallons per hours) hope my fuel flow never gets that high. Good
>to 250 psi, my pump is rated at 25 or 35, I wil have to look that up but
>seems to be plenty.
>
>Anybody, tried one of these? Or any word on the Flow Ezy company?
>
>
>Thanks,
>
>Tom Gummo
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
User-Agent: Microsoft Outlook Express Macintosh Edition - 5.0 (1513)
| From: | KAOS <kaos(at)captainkaos.com> |
--
http://www.captainkaos.com
kaos(at)captainkaos.com
pig(at)captainkaos.com
i know im not suspose to sent jokes but it is short and good
"United 234," the control tower advised, "turn right 45
degrees for noise abatement."
"Roger," the pilot responded, "but we're at 35,000 feet. How
much noise can we make up here?"
"Sir," the radar man replied, "have you ever heard the noise
a 727 makes when it hits a 747?"
________________________________________________________________________________
User-Agent: Microsoft Outlook Express Macintosh Edition - 5.0 (1513)
| Subject: | FIRST F1 QB TO LAND IN AUSTRALIA |
| From: | KAOS <kaos(at)captainkaos.com> |
--
http://www.captainkaos.com
kaos(at)captainkaos.com
pig(at)captainkaos.com
THE FIRST F1 QUICK BUILD LANDED IN AUSTRALIA LAST WEEK , AND WAS RECEIVED BY
DOUG WATSON IN QUEENSLAND IN PERFECT CONDITION . THE TEAM ROCKET CREW AND
HPAI HAS EXCELLED IN QUALITY AND SERVICE AGAIN,THE KITS JUST SEEM TO BE
GETTING BETTER ! KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK
HOPE TO HAVE SOME PHOTOS ON WEB PAGE SHORTLY OF THE FIRST F1 QB DOWN UNDER
CAPTAIN KAOS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Odyssey Battery - Voltage Regulator |
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Jones, Bryan D."
<bryan.jones@lyondell-citgo.com>
>
>Isn't the Odyssey a dry cell type battery? If so, what type voltage
>regulator does it require? Same as for lead-acid battery?
The Odyssey is not a dry cell, it has liquid water and
sulphuric acid in it. It's also a lead-acid battery.
It requires no special attention in terms of voltage
regulation.
see http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/rg_bat.html
The majority of my builders are using a 17 a.h. recombinant gas
batteries which which can be found on hte following links.
These batteries can be purchased from a variety of battery
specialty shops. We have some little convenience store sized
Battery Patrols around Wichita that handle these batteries
for $60-70 each.
Powersonic: PS-12180
http://www.power-sonic.com/12180.html
Hawker: Check out the first 6 batteries on this page . . .
http://www.hepi.com/products/genesis/genprod.htm
Panasonic: particularly the LCRD1271P
http://www.panasonic.com/industrial_oem/battery/battery_oem/images/pdf/lc-rd
1217p.pdf
http://www.panasonic.com/industrial_oem/battery/battery_oem/chem/seal/seal.htm
Yuasa-Exide: Check out the NP18-12B at this site . . .
http://www.yuasa-exide.com/np-prod.html
Handle these like any other lead-acid battery. Bus volts no
less than 13.8 - 14.2 is about ideal - no more than 14.6
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( still understand knothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rocket flight report on the web |
Hi Fellas:
Budd Davisson has brought his new website online: Airbum.com. He is the
writer who did the story on my (wife's) ship for Sport Aviation. You can see
this article (among many others) at: Rocket Pirep
It's very difficult to describe how this ship flies, but Budd does a fine
job. Considering all the other articles, his experience level at this sort of
thing is very high.
Check Six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Martin" <fairlea(at)execulink.com> |
| Subject: | Rocket for sale! |
Well my next project is coming along well and it is time to sell the flying
bird. I have traveled far with this airplane and many of you have seen it at
Oshkosh and Sun and Fun last year. The aircraft won a workmanship award at
Oshkosh 99. For more info email me or check out the great Ontario RV
website at
http://www.ontariorvators.org/vaf_ow_sale.htm
Tom Martin
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
Rocket builders and flyers,
I have a website that I am developing for Rocket stats, pilot
reports, photos, and other info. The site also has some line drawings that
you can use to develop your paint scheme.
Please feel free to send photos, pilot reports, links to other
Rocket sites, etc.
I don't make any money off this...and don't want to. I just want to
collect and share Rocket info with others. Check out the site at the
address below. Lately it's been changing daily.
Thanks,
Vince Frazier
Harmon Rocket II
N314VF reserved
http://www.usi.edu/CHEM/FACULTY/vfrazier/page1.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | operators manual |
Hello listers:
Do any of you know of any Rocket drivers having an operators manual of sorts?
In order to operate one of these ships in Europe, this piece of equipment is
necessary.
Please respond offline.
Regards
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ronc" <ronc(at)metropolis.slc.net> |
| Subject: | Rocket 1, Bird 0 |
Hi Rocketmen:
I had quite the ride last night.I finally completed painting my rocket and
took it out for a test spin. Everything was going well, I was making a
descending right turn when I heard what I thought was a backfire- BAM!, Oh
great, I thought, I just get the paint on and the engine is going to let me
down. As I turned my head forward and looked down the side of the plane (as
though I would see fire coming out or something) a smear about 3" wide and
15" long right up the center of the canopy came into view. A second later I
realized this was not a giant moth or a bug smear. My mind recreated the
whole impact with the bird coming through the canopy- that would have been
bad. Then I remembered a conversation with John Harmon several years ago
about bird strikes and how the rocket does pretty well with them. Thank
goodness that proved to be the case.
I think I was doing about 170 to 180 mph. No canopy damage or paint
scratches.
This is a flop over canopy from Gee Bee. I did not see any indication that
the bird hit the prop. I think it was a black bird, had black feathers
anyway. The impact pretty much exploded the poor creature as there was
blood along the entire LE of the vert stab and on the left horiz.
Thanks John for a great design! And thanks to God for small birds!
Ron Carter, N230RC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gummos" <tg1965(at)linkline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rocket 1, Bird 0 |
F-4G 1, Bird 0
On landing one day, I thought I had a bird go down the intake of one of my
engines. As I was on the ground, I immediately shut that engine down.
After parking, I told the crewchief that I thought I took a bird and he
would have to do an inspection. His response was "Yes Sir, the whole plane
smells like Col Sanders". Sure enough, because I was able to shut down the
engine right away, the bird remains didn't get burned away but just cooked.
{No damage either :-) }
Ron,
Thanks for the report. Sure glad you are O.K. and sounds like good news on
the canopy.
Tom Gummo
Apple Valley, CA
flying this summer, please please, please
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Website forms mailer back up . . . |
Our website is back up using a generic forms mailer that came
with the original configuration. I seem to have been swallowed
up in the policies and procedures swamp at my host's offices.
Couldn't get an expert to look at the problem until a form had
been filled out and dropped on somebody's desk; a day later expert
takes a peek and then phones me at the wrong number to leave voicemail
on quote to fix; a day later expert is out for the day; etc. etc.
Gave up and went back to square one.
In any case, the system is functioning as of this hour. I'm really
warming to the idea of having my site-server site in dedicated
hardware right in my office . . . we'll have DSL in our neighborhood
this fall so that just might be the ultimate solution.
Thanks to everyone for their patience.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( still understand knothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | OV protection w/built in regulator |
>My experience has been that most of the hardware old enough to use an
>external regulator is also less reliable. Note that I said 'my
>experience' and 'most.' I went through 4 externally regulated
>alternators & at least that many regulators in about 4 months before
>switching to an internally regulated alt. almost 5 years ago, with not a
>single glitch since. None of the above failures were of the o/v nature &
>none damaged any avionics.
Agreed . . . and MOST of the externally regulated alternator
hardware out there is specific to aircraft and designed/certified
20-30 years ago. Check the service difficulty reports using keyword
"alternator" and then filter for single engine aircraft . . .
Everything that might be deduced in the way of alternator failures
happens every month in a TC aircraft . . . "casting broke, thru-bolts
stripped, brushes worn out, windings burned, bearings siezed, diodes
shorted, etc. etc." FBO's love 'em . . . regulated job security well
into the new century.
On the other hand, when you take a brand new, Nipon-Dienso, 40 or
60 amp alternator, disassemble for modification to run external
regulation, balance the rotor to about 10x tighter specs than
they come out of the factory and re-assemble with due care, you
end up with an alternator that runs well for a very long time.
I have first hand knowledge of 2,000+ such alternators sold over
the last 8 years . . . not one has returned for wear-out or
repair. It's the difference between a 1990's product and a
1960's product.
>I don't use o/v protection, but if I did, it would probably be the very
>simple zener/fuse arrangement. I'm sure Bob's solid state system is more
>sophisticated & works better, but as the guy used to write in BYTE
>Magazine, 'Better is the enemy of good enough.'
The zener fuse combo was certified onto early American and subsequently
Grumman-American aircraft. It's a sort of poor-man's crowbar ov
protection scheme. When I first heard of it, I was skeptical.
It has been about 15 years since I brass-boarded this system onto
an alternator-battery system in the lab. Here's what I found.
Proper operation of the system depended heavily on two things.
(1) A fuse (fast acting) had to be used upstream of the zener
and (2) the zener had to be a 1W glass encapsulated device -
p/n 1N4745.
It works like this: In an ov condition, the zener tries its
best to keep the bus voltage from rising above 16 volts. In so
doing, internal disipation rises well above the diode's 1W
rating and it commits electronic suicide by becoming a dead
short. The resulting short opens the fuse and corrals the runaway
alternator.
Over the years, folk who did not understand the "balance of
power" implicit the this design made well meaning-changes to
this scheme with the unintended consequences of degrading
performance or even making the system ineffectual. Common
errors include:
(1) Replace pesky fuse with a real circuit breaker: Opening
times for breakers vs. fuses is 10x to 50x longer. The slow
response of the breaker stresses the zener to explosive
destruction. The altenrator runaway continues unabated.
(2) Substituted any ol zener with the number "1N4745"
printed on it: Plastic parts were unable to withstand
the rapid onset of heat dissipation and explosive
destruction of the zener results. The runaway continues
unabated.
(3) Substitute a really husky 16 volt zener for the itty-
bitty 1W device. This change was often combined with
a change from fuse to circuit breaker. The general idea
was to make the protection scheme "reusable" . . . no
fuses -or- zeners to replace: The general effect of this
modification was to push the time-constant for tripping
OV protection out by hundreds of milliseconds to perhaps
several seconds. Contemporary OV protection is designed
to react to a step from 14-20 volts on the bus in 50
milliseconds or less.
>My personal feeling about external regulators & o/v protection is this:
>Once I reach a certain (hard to define) comfort level about the
>reliability of a system, I'd rather not add failure modes. Over-voltage
>type failures in self-regulated alternators seem to be so rare that you
>hear about every one. Generator/regulator & alt/regulator failures are
>so common that they are treated like dry vac pump failures, you know
>they are going to happen sometime in the near future.
No argument about comfort levels . . . I'll suggest that
the greatest body of experience with aircraft alternators
comes from the world of certified aircraft. My best
recommendation is to see what's happening with true
state-of-the art designs and fabrication techniques.
There's a mistaken perception that the certified aircraft
world is benefiting from the advance of technologies
in all respects . . . I'll suggest it happens only in
area of things you bolt into holes on the instrument
panel. Stuff under the cowl has evolved very slowly if
at all in 50 years or so that have passed since
the first generator was bolted to a single engine
airplane. If you want to know what a modern alternator
can really do for you, you'll have to limit your
observations to the real leading edge of aviation
technologies . . . check out the flight line at
OSH.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( still understand knothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Williams <7ecapilot(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Cockpit dimensions |
If the HRII "is a -4," is the F-1 a -4 also?
I am curious about how the cockpit dimensions compare to the RV-8. I sat in
the RV-8 prototype and found it pretty comfortable from either seat. I am
wondering about the back seat for my taller/bigger friends.
tw
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gummos" <tg1965(at)linkline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cockpit dimensions |
Terry,
> If the HRII "is a -4," is the F-1 a -4 also?
The HR-II is not a RV-4 when it comes to the cockpit. If you look at a
RV-4, you will see that the cockpit is not as wide as the engine as the cowl
has "cheeks".
The HR-II doesn't use cowl cheeks so the cockpit is wider. Also, the
fuselage is longer to help with the CG of the heavier engine.
As I understand it, the cockipt is 4 inches wider at the fuselage at the
wing spar and this width tapers to be the same size at the seatback for the
rear cockpit. The 4 extra inches in length is also between the seats. More
leg room???
With that being said, I weight 280 pounds and am only 5' 8" tall. I had no
problems in the rear seat when I flew with John. I know he has had lots of
people who are much taller fly with him too.
I have also flown in the rear seat of an RV-4, IO-360 + C.S. prop.
While I fit, there is not a lot of extra room.
I know nothing about either the RV-8 or F-1.
John, did I mis-spoke??
Tom Gummo
Apple Valley, CA
Flying this summer, please, please, please.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Zenith-List: Alum polishing compound recommendation? |
In a message dated 5/13/00 8:11:33 PM Pacific Daylight Time, elrond(at)xprt.net
writes:
> Anyone got a recommendation for a brand of aluminum polishing compound?
> Any tricks to speed up the process?
Hi Bruce: Below please find two links. One is for a company in Canada. They
give a lot of info on polishing and their US counter parts.
The other is a company I am going to use to buy supplies to polish my
Airstream(s). Great info. Their site is under reconstruction this weekend, So
book mark them and look them over next week.
Aircraft Exterior Polish, Aircraft
Polishing products
Lake Country Manufacturing
I hope this helps.
Regards,
John @ AAMR/AirCore/Mar
ineCore
(Chick the blue link to go there)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Regina Pabo" <eldreg(at)qnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cockpit dimensions |
The RV-8 is what the RV-4 should have been,the HRII is what every airplane
wishes it was.
----- Original Message -----
From: Terry Williams <7ecapilot(at)home.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 13, 2000 11:21 AM
Subject: Rocket-List: Cockpit dimensions
>
> If the HRII "is a -4," is the F-1 a -4 also?
>
> I am curious about how the cockpit dimensions compare to the RV-8. I sat
in
> the RV-8 prototype and found it pretty comfortable from either seat. I am
> wondering about the back seat for my taller/bigger friends.
>
> tw
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Warren Gretz <warrengretz(at)gretzaero.com> |
list-aviation ,
list-avionics ,
list-ez ,
list-glasair ,
list-homebuilt ,
list-lancair ,
list-rocket ,
list-zenith
| Subject: | Gretz Aero Products |
Hello listers,
I have been told lately that a few builders have been trying to get in
touch with me. Several months ago my e-mail address changed when I got
my website up. My current e-mail address is info(at)gretzaero.com
My website address is www.gretzaero.com
You should take a look at the products I make and sell for builders at
this website. The most popular item is the heated pitot tube mounting
bracket. I also sell heated pitot tubes at a great price. There are
several other items there I am sure you will be interested in also.
Please contact me by e-mail, or the phone if you have questions.
Warren Gretz
Gretz Aero
303-770-3811 evenings and weekends or leave a message on the recorder
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Cockpit dimensions |
The RV4 more of a brother than a cousin to the RV3. The RV3 was designed by
a slender man that stands just over six feet tall. He wanted maximum
performance from an O-320. He kept every once out of the airplane that he
possibly could therefore it is not the largest cockpit. At the time he had
no idea that he would become world famous and sell ten thousand airplanes
(he's getting close and it's a sure thing he will). So in the early 90's he
decided to design the RV8 to suit the market that he had created. This
included heavier people with baggage who wanted to travel. The cockpit had
become much larger and adjustable rudder pedals were designed in from the
start. The forward luggage compartment addressed the C of G problems that
some of the RV4 drivers were having. The RV8 met the challange of a light
weight pilot who had a very heavy "other half".
Could the F1 guys please give us a comparison to the RV8?
Regards,
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Regina Pabo" <eldreg(at)qnet.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2000 4:24 AM
Subject: Re: Rocket-List: Cockpit dimensions
>
> The RV-8 is what the RV-4 should have been,the HRII is what every airplane
> wishes it was.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Terry Williams <7ecapilot(at)home.com>
> To:
> Sent: Saturday, May 13, 2000 11:21 AM
> Subject: Rocket-List: Cockpit dimensions
>
>
> >
> > If the HRII "is a -4," is the F-1 a -4 also?
> >
> > I am curious about how the cockpit dimensions compare to the RV-8. I sat
> in
> > the RV-8 prototype and found it pretty comfortable from either seat. I
am
> > wondering about the back seat for my taller/bigger friends.
> >
> > tw
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Martin" <fairlea(at)execulink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cockpit dimensions |
I realize that this is very subjective, and that I am biased, but the
RV8 lost a lot of the style that the RV4 had. The rockets added more.
Tom Martin
-----Original Message-----
From: Norman Hunger <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Date: May 14, 2000 12:20 PM
Subject: Re: Rocket-List: Cockpit dimensions
>
>The RV4 more of a brother than a cousin to the RV3. The RV3 was designed by
>a slender man that stands just over six feet tall. He wanted maximum
>performance from an O-320. He kept every once out of the airplane that he
>possibly could therefore it is not the largest cockpit. At the time he had
>no idea that he would become world famous and sell ten thousand airplanes
>(he's getting close and it's a sure thing he will). So in the early 90's he
>decided to design the RV8 to suit the market that he had created. This
>included heavier people with baggage who wanted to travel. The cockpit had
>become much larger and adjustable rudder pedals were designed in from the
>start. The forward luggage compartment addressed the C of G problems that
>some of the RV4 drivers were having. The RV8 met the challange of a light
>weight pilot who had a very heavy "other half".
>Could the F1 guys please give us a comparison to the RV8?
>
>Regards,
>Norman Hunger
>RV6A Delta BC
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Regina Pabo" <eldreg(at)qnet.com>
>To:
>Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2000 4:24 AM
>Subject: Re: Rocket-List: Cockpit dimensions
>
>
>>
>> The RV-8 is what the RV-4 should have been,the HRII is what every
airplane
>> wishes it was.
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: Terry Williams <7ecapilot(at)home.com>
>> To:
>> Sent: Saturday, May 13, 2000 11:21 AM
>> Subject: Rocket-List: Cockpit dimensions
>>
>>
>> >
>> > If the HRII "is a -4," is the F-1 a -4 also?
>> >
>> > I am curious about how the cockpit dimensions compare to the RV-8. I
sat
>> in
>> > the RV-8 prototype and found it pretty comfortable from either seat. I
>am
>> > wondering about the back seat for my taller/bigger friends.
>> >
>> > tw
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Archie" <archie97(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cockpit dimensions |
>
> I realize that this is very subjective, and that I am biased, but the
> RV8 lost a lot of the style that the RV4 had. The rockets added more.
>
> Tom Martin
Ditto, Here.
Archie
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cockpit dimensions |
In a message dated 5/13/00 1:21:54 PM Central Daylight Time,
7ecapilot(at)home.com writes:
<< If the HRII "is a -4," is the F-1 a -4 also?
I am curious about how the cockpit dimensions compare to the RV-8. I sat in
the RV-8 prototype and found it pretty comfortable from either seat. I am
wondering about the back seat for my taller/bigger friends.
tw >>
Hi Terry:
The cabin dims for the HR2 and the F1 are virtually the same. When these are
compared to the -4, the spar area is indeed 4" wider, Making the front seat
area much more comfortable. The backseater gets an increase in footroom from
this width increase -- important during those long cross-country flights.
The rear seat is 4" further from the main spar. What this means is that the
front seater gets part of that room -- about 2" -- for leg room, and the back
seater gets all 4" for legroom. Quite a difference, when compared to the -4.
The width of the rear seat bulkhead remains the same as the -4, or 24".
I have a few hours in the -8, and its front seat position is somewhat
different from the F1 -- you feel like you are sitting up higher, and indeed
you are. The positioning of the rudder pedals, along with the gear towers,
combine to keep your feet and knees closer together when compared to the F1.
A local fellow claims this restricts his stick movement while maneuvering.
But we are discussing pure numbers here -- get a ride in both before you
decide. The differences in flight characteristics are dramatic! My impression
is that the -8 feels like a -4 with a bigger engine: the ride quality and
maneuverability of the two are very close. The Rocket feels like a completely
different ship: larger, more stable, more maneuverable. Read Budd Davisson's
flight report at: Rocke
t Pirep
By the way: we have two September QB kit delivery slots open.
Feel free to forward ant further questions!
Regards,
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul & Gerti RV-4 F-1 006" <gertivs(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cockpit dimensions |
A typical weekday flight for me is full power at 20 to 30 feet until 125,
moderate pitchup (keep the twr happy) to 2000'. At 5.0 miles a single
aileron roll followed by a double. Hard turns, a couple loops. Call twr
requesting a left break, break at 190+, land, scoot to the hanger. The GPS
says 18 minutes. Life with the -4 is good. If the Rocket can ratchet this
up a notch, well it has now become a gotta-have.
Baggage is adequate with any rv product once you find that UPS is cheap,
worldwide and reliable. People measuring the cu ft of cockpits are missing
much of the point of the -3, -4 and most certainly the HRII.
My wife and I enjoy our cross country trips immensely. I am not capable of
describing it better than how Sam Buchannan has previously. The -6 and -8
will fill these pleasures like no other.
Lastly, I think genius can be best described as making the difficult seem
easy. Regina Pabo's answer to this question shows signs of genius.
>>> The RV-8 is what the RV-4 should have been, the HRII is what every
airplane wishes it was.>
Paul Vander Schuur
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Noel" <bnoel(at)ausa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cockpit dimensions |
Agreed. I would like the extra room but the 8 just dosen't grab me the way
the 4 does. The HR is a better looking plane than 8. I know Vans did a great
job on the 8, it just isn't sexy.
-----Original Message-----
From: Archie <archie97(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Sunday, May 14, 2000 2:31 PM
Subject: Re: Rocket-List: Cockpit dimensions
>
>
>>
>> I realize that this is very subjective, and that I am biased, but
the
>> RV8 lost a lot of the style that the RV4 had. The rockets added more.
>>
>> Tom Martin
>
>Ditto, Here.
>Archie
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cockpit dimensions |
In a message dated 5/14/2000 5:46:49 PM Central Daylight Time, bnoel(at)ausa.net
writes:
<< Agreed. I would like the extra room but the 8 just dosen't grab me the way
the 4 does. The HR is a better looking plane than 8. I know Vans did a great
job on the 8, it just isn't sexy. >>
The F1 is even sexier then then the Harmon since your not puttin the harmon
kit on a RV4 fuselage so the F1 has cleaner lines in my opnion. But your
right the RV4 and the harmon and the F1 are sexier then the 8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hr2pilot(at)aol.com |
These things just keep popping out. Congratulations to Nathan Hawkins and
Craig Reiner # 56 & 57 Two F18 Navy Pilots at China Lake Ca.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | F1 open production slot |
Hi Listers:
We have an F1 QB kit available for delivery to you in the September
timeframe. Just think, you could acquire your kit in time to begin building
this Fall.....and be at Sun N Fun next year! Please contact me via email if
you are interested in securing this slot.
Check Six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Archie" <archie97(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: F1 open production slot |
>
> Hi Listers:
>
> We have an F1 QB kit available for delivery to you in the September
> timeframe. Just think, you could acquire your kit in time to begin
building
> this Fall.....and be at Sun N Fun next year! Please contact me via email
if
> you are interested in securing this slot.
>
> Check Six!
> Mark
Mark,
What is the frequency of delivery?
Believe it was every 3 months?
Archie
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: F1 open production slot |
In a message dated 5/16/00 7:58:07 PM Central Daylight Time,
archie97(at)earthlink.net writes:
<< We have an F1 QB kit available for delivery to you in the September
> timeframe. Just think, you could acquire your kit in time to begin
building
> this Fall.....and be at Sun N Fun next year! Please contact me via email
if
> you are interested in securing this slot.
>
> Check Six!
> Mark
Mark,
What is the frequency of delivery?
Believe it was every 3 months?
Archie >>
Hi Arch:
Production is at one per week now, with an ocean container with four kits in
it arriving every month. It turns out that the light at the end of the tunnel
actually *was* the end of the tunnel -- not a train coming the other way!!
But, it was a long tunnel...!
Check Six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LKDAUDT2(at)aol.com |
Listers.... If you would please, just jot down your experiences and advise
when working with the plexiglass canopy... Im about to start on cutting my
canopy for my F-1 #0001.
Specific Questions are:
What is a good temperature for the work area when cutting and drilling?
How far will the preformed canopy bend and form to the frame?
Will it squeeze in 1 inch on each side?
Did you use a pad between the frame and plexiglass?
Will I need a lot of shiming between the frame and plexiglass?
Where can I get more information on working with Plexiglass?
Please respond to my address unless you think all will benefit.
Many thanks in advance..... Larry
LKDAUDT2(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 5/17/2000 8:15:05 AM Central Daylight Time,
LKDAUDT2(at)aol.com writes:
<< Listers.... If you would please, just jot down your experiences and advise
when working with the plexiglass canopy... Im about to start on cutting my
canopy for my F-1 #0001.
Specific Questions are:
What is a good temperature for the work area when cutting and drilling?
How far will the preformed canopy bend and form to the frame?
Will it squeeze in 1 inch on each side?
Did you use a pad between the frame and plexiglass?
Will I need a lot of shiming between the frame and plexiglass?
Where can I get more information on working with Plexiglass?
Please respond to my address unless you think all will benefit.
Many thanks in advance..... Larry
LKDAUDT >>
Please respond on list as I will be looking at doing my canapy soon for my F1
#000 also and I have no idea on what do do with it other then I dont want to
crack it.
Thanks
chris
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: F1 open production slot |
In a message dated 5/17/2000 6:04:45 AM Central Daylight Time, Mlfred(at)aol.com
writes:
<< Hi Arch:
Production is at one per week now, with an ocean container with four kits in
it arriving every month. It turns out that the light at the end of the
tunnel
actually *was* the end of the tunnel -- not a train coming the other way!!
But, it was a long tunnel...!
Check Six!
Mark
>>
Glad to see your up to 1 kit a week now from 3 a month. Keep it going
CHris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Hall <tkhall(at)highland.net> |
I'm sure that others may be more experienced and Mark probably has a detailed
plan, but here is my experience with 2 aircraft.
- Use acrylic bit and slow drill speed
-Let bit pull itself through
-Oversize hole is necessary for expansion
-all cuts and holes MUST be deburred and all edges should be smoothed with fine
sanding to relieve stress points
-depending on hole spacing, small rubber washers can be used with smaller flat
washers (away from glass). If fewer used and spacing wider, the other padding
might be necessary.
-Tightening critical. Use light across surface and tighten until SLIGHT
distortion is seen, then back off.
EAA Sport Aviation has had articles and I will try to find some manufacter's lit
that I have had and forward if you would like. I don't know what hardware (i.e.
mounting screws or small bolts) that Mark has in mind.
Tom Hall #15
CW9371(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 5/17/2000 8:15:05 AM Central Daylight Time,
> LKDAUDT2(at)aol.com writes:
>
> << Listers.... If you would please, just jot down your experiences and advise
> when working with the plexiglass canopy... Im about to start on cutting my
> canopy for my F-1 #0001.
> Specific Questions are:
> What is a good temperature for the work area when cutting and drilling?
> How far will the preformed canopy bend and form to the frame?
> Will it squeeze in 1 inch on each side?
> Did you use a pad between the frame and plexiglass?
> Will I need a lot of shiming between the frame and plexiglass?
> Where can I get more information on working with Plexiglass?
>
> Please respond to my address unless you think all will benefit.
>
> Many thanks in advance..... Larry
> LKDAUDT >>
>
> Please respond on list as I will be looking at doing my canapy soon for my F1
> #000 also and I have no idea on what do do with it other then I dont want to
> crack it.
>
> Thanks
>
> chris
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Strike a centerline across the top, left to right and fore/aft. Make all
measurements relative to these lines. Use a fabric tape measure (seamtress tape
measure). Once the molding flange is cut off the canopy gets like a rhombozoid
or a parallelgram( i.e. it shifts - not much but enough to make your
measurements go wrong unless you use the centerline technique.) Get the unit
warm prior to cutting (above 70 degrees) and do the cut & fit thing many, many
times. I used 1 x 1 inch wood stringers screwed with dry wall screws thru the
plexi about 18 inches apart to hold the shape of the base of the canopy (as it
fits/sits on the aircraft). This way, any triming I did was held constant in
relation to the whole canopy and the base fit area. I didn't have any of
the...... cut here and somewhere else- push out there.....problems because I
pinned the base as I did. It also made moving the canopy much easier......with
out the temporary stringers and the base flange cut away the canopy is like a
rather large jello blob....... I know there are many more posts in the
archieves.......good luck.
CW9371(at)aol.com on 05/17/2000 12:37:52 PM
Please respond to rocket-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Rocket-List: Canopy?????
In a message dated 5/17/2000 8:15:05 AM Central Daylight Time,
LKDAUDT2(at)aol.com writes:
<< Listers.... If you would please, just jot down your experiences and advise
when working with the plexiglass canopy... Im about to start on cutting my
canopy for my F-1 #0001.
Specific Questions are:
What is a good temperature for the work area when cutting and drilling?
How far will the preformed canopy bend and form to the frame?
Will it squeeze in 1 inch on each side?
Did you use a pad between the frame and plexiglass?
Will I need a lot of shiming between the frame and plexiglass?
Where can I get more information on working with Plexiglass?
Please respond to my address unless you think all will benefit.
Many thanks in advance..... Larry
LKDAUDT >>
Please respond on list as I will be looking at doing my canapy soon for my F1
#000 also and I have no idea on what do do with it other then I dont want to
crack it.
Thanks
chris
________________________________________________________________________________
A roto zip from Sears works very well for cutting. Terry E. Cole N468TC
________________________________________________________________________________
Larry, a word of caution. I have a friend who is doing a masterful
job on his RV6-A and after painting his canopy frame with Imron did not wait
at least 2 weeks before attaching the plexiglass to the frame and is now in
the process of replacing it with a new one. It seems there was a chemical
reaction that ruined the glass. TT in Indy
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Canopy / Roto_Zip |
Second that ! The Roto-Zip has to be among the top ten tools that I've
discovered I cannot live without. I also use a 3-M Rol-Lock in the Roto-Zip and
this tool is greater. (I hate info-mercials...sorry if this sounds like
one.....)
TColeE(at)aol.com on 05/17/2000 07:15:56 PM
Please respond to rocket-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Rocket-List: Canopy?????
A roto zip from Sears works very well for cutting. Terry E. Cole N468TC
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 5/18/00 7:49:09 AM Central Daylight Time, HR69GT(at)aol.com
writes:
<< I have a friend who is doing a masterful
job on his RV6-A and after painting his canopy frame with Imron did not wait
at least 2 weeks before attaching the plexiglass to the frame and is now in
the process of replacing it with a new one. It seems there was a chemical
reaction that ruined the glass. TT in Indy >>
Hi TT:
I hadn't thought of this: Imron and some other types of paints have a fair
amount of MEK in them -- very bad for plexi! I'd expect this chemical to
'gas off' for a while after the part has been sprayed. This would seem to
explain some of the odd cracking I've seen in a few canopy installations. So:
2 weeks is a recommended wait time for assy of this part?
Check Six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LKDAUDT2(at)aol.com |
I recieved a lot of good information as a result of my request. Id like to
thank all who responded to my list a few days ago. Youve made life a lot
easier for me..
Larry K. Daudt F-1 # 0001
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "A. W. Triff" <tekrep(at)wans.net> |
| Subject: | Canopy / Roto_Zip |
I've been wondering about the Roto-Zip, sounds like it's a must-have. The
info-mercials look too good, so I've been skeptical- can it be that this
thing really is all they say it is? I'd be very interested to hear how many
builders have used them and their level of success and satisfaction with the
unit.
Thanks,
Wes Triff
F-1 # 014
ATL
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rocket-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rocket-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
pcondon(at)csc.com
Sent: Thursday, May 18, 2000 6:05 AM
Subject: Re: Rocket-List: Canopy / Roto_Zip
Second that ! The Roto-Zip has to be among the top ten tools that I've
discovered I cannot live without. I also use a 3-M Rol-Lock in the Roto-Zip
and
this tool is greater. (I hate info-mercials...sorry if this sounds like
one.....)
TColeE(at)aol.com on 05/17/2000 07:15:56 PM
Please respond to rocket-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Rocket-List: Canopy?????
A roto zip from Sears works very well for cutting. Terry E. Cole N468TC
..
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Archie" <archie97(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy / Roto_Zip |
> I've been wondering about the Roto-Zip, sounds like it's a must-have. The
> info-mercials look too good, so I've been skeptical- can it be that this
> thing really is all they say it is? I'd be very interested to hear how
many
> builders have used them and their level of success and satisfaction with
the
> unit.
I am also looking as a "must have" tool,
and have been told that shopping around
pays. TV has full price, and one fellow bought
a kit at a tool outlet for almost half price.
When I got there, they had sold out.
Just keep our eyes open, I guess.
Archie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fred Kunkel <rvator(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Big, big dimple dies |
Hello everyone,
On one of my shopping trips this week I came across a bunch of dimple
dies with 3/8" shanks. They came out of a major aerospace manufacturing
plant and are designed for some large squeezers/dimpling machines,
although I'm not sure which ones. The sizes, though, are 3/32, 1/8,
3/16, #6 screw, #8 screw, & a couple #10 screws. These dies are in mint
condition.
I've seen posts in the past from individuals who have some of the larger
squeezers/dimplers. If any individual, or particularily any Chapter or
building group, has access to a tool that takes this size dimple dies,
pls. email me off list & I'll donate a set of the dies to you.
Blue Skies!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Canopy / Roto_Zip |
In a message dated 5/20/2000 7:05:36 AM Central Daylight Time,
tekrep(at)wans.net writes:
<< They're about $85 at Home Depot, anyone find 'em cheaper anywhere?
Wes >>
Sears had or had the biggest one with in a plastic box with the hole cutter
and some other odds and ends for $85 on sale. The regular plain one at sears
was 80. Needless to say I bought the $85 set as the hole cutter alone is
19.95.
Chris
F1 rocket #000
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gummos" <tg1965(at)linkline.com> |
"RV List"
Listers,
I have some garage rash on my elevator.
As I was showing my project to my EAA chapter, a guest, said that I should
try "DRY ICE" to shrink the dents out. He stated that dry ice is cold
enough to cause the metal to shrine back to a flat condition.
Anyone heard of this and, if so, ideas on what the exact method would be???
Woudl the metal lose any strength?
What are the downsides to trying this?
Tom Gummo
Apple Valley, CA
HRII - hope to fly this summer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List: dents in Al. |
I understand it works for hail damage in cars.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gummos" <tg1965(at)linkline.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 21, 2000 3:10 PM
Subject: RV-List: dents in Al.
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Gummos"
>
> Listers,
>
> I have some garage rash on my elevator.
>
> As I was showing my project to my EAA chapter, a guest, said that I should
> try "DRY ICE" to shrink the dents out. He stated that dry ice is cold
> enough to cause the metal to shrine back to a flat condition.
>
> Anyone heard of this and, if so, ideas on what the exact method would
be???
>
> Woudl the metal lose any strength?
>
> What are the downsides to trying this?
>
> Tom Gummo
> Apple Valley, CA
> HRII - hope to fly this summer
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Archie" <archie97(at)earthlink.net> |
OK, you electrical wizards, or: "see how dumb I am".
Today I was told that there is a small device available
that allows military type 120v 400cycle instruments to
be utilized in a 12v dc system. (small?)
Frankly, I am skeptical.
Archie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fouga434(at)aol.com |
I THINK ITS CALLED AN INVERTER
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Archie" <archie97(at)earthlink.net> |
>
> I THINK ITS CALLED AN INVERTER
I am familiar with inverters, they are not small,
and are heavy.
This would not make purchasing of less expensive
surplus military instruments economically feasible.
This item was described as being about the size
of a pack of cigarettes.
I believe it is real smoke!
Archie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Regina Pabo" <eldreg(at)qnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: dents in Al. |
Tom, I heard this from Danny. I reviewed the engineering data available
from many sources. It's true that you can try this with no damage to the
granular structure of aluminum, (No damage to strength.) I was very curious
if this would work for Danny's problem. I sent up a test piece and applied
dry ice. While the damage to the test piece was reduced, by no way did the
dent disappear. Once the granular structure of the aluminum has been upset
there is no way short of melting that will bring it back. Then you get to re
temper and age the material. I even went colder than dry ice by following
with a Ln2 experiment.Same results. Ken Lick the wound, remake the piece.
----- Original Message -----
From: Gummos <tg1965(at)linkline.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 21, 2000 1:10 PM
Subject: Rocket-List: dents in Al.
>
> Listers,
>
> I have some garage rash on my elevator.
>
> As I was showing my project to my EAA chapter, a guest, said that I should
> try "DRY ICE" to shrink the dents out. He stated that dry ice is cold
> enough to cause the metal to shrine back to a flat condition.
>
> Anyone heard of this and, if so, ideas on what the exact method would
be???
>
> Woudl the metal lose any strength?
>
> What are the downsides to trying this?
>
> Tom Gummo
> Apple Valley, CA
> HRII - hope to fly this summer
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | c130h2(at)flash.net |
No Smoke, No Mirrors. I have an inverter which plugs into my cigarette
lighter which changes 12V into house current. To make 400 cycle vs 60
cycle would be a very minor capacitor change in the device. This is not
the ancient technology mechanical inverter -- big as a boat anchor --
these little gems are sized according to how much power they put out. A
one amp device is about the size of two cigarette packs.
The circuit is very simple and can easily be gleaned at the public
library from a do it yourself hobby magazine.
Best Regards,
Mark Julicher
Archie wrote:
>
> >
> > I THINK ITS CALLED AN INVERTER
>
> I am familiar with inverters, they are not small,
> and are heavy.
> This would not make purchasing of less expensive
> surplus military instruments economically feasible.
> This item was described as being about the size
> of a pack of cigarettes.
> I believe it is real smoke!
> Archie
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
>Somewhere in the recess of my mind, I recall something being said about a
>difference between store bought switches and aviation quality switches. I
>have looked through all my library and cannot find any reference that
>directs an answer to this ponderence. Tony Bingelis says that there are
>probably many 'Radio Shack' switches out there in homebuilt aircraft, but it
>bothers me to go 'downtown' for switches if I am supposed to be getting
>aircraft switches.
What's an "aircraft" switch? Never saw one with that
terminology marked on it. There's plenty of advertising
hype designed to convince folk that a particular offering
is more suited to aircraft than another product . . .
but no matter how much you spend for a switch, does that
guarantee that it will never fail? If it might fail,
what is your "plan-b" for dealing with the failure? If
you've GOT a plan-b, then is the absolute quality of the
switch all that important?
I can tell you that the row of rockers that went into
tens of thousands of single engine Cessnas cost them
under $1.00 each. The vast majority of those installed
at the factory are still operating 20+ years later.
> . . . Even 'Electric Bob' seems quiet on this topic other than
>to say that the switch should be heavy duty and a snap action switch which
>is rated for the load to be placed on it. Where is the reference that I
>remember about AC and DC rated switches? Can anyone point the way?
I just got back to Wichita after a week of errant electron
stomping in CT . . . working a proble with the de-ice
system on the Beechjet. Took the day off from RAC to try
and catch up on duties at home.
You can download a copy of an article I did for Sport
Aviation a few years ago at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/swtchrat.pdf
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( still understand knothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
>OK, you electrical wizards, or: "see how dumb I am".
>Today I was told that there is a small device available
>that allows military type 120v 400cycle instruments to
>be utilized in a 12v dc system. (small?)
>Frankly, I am skeptical.
>>OK, I'll show my lack of knowledge here- maybe, maybe not- But I believe 400
>>Hz 120 V is AC, not DC. I guess you would need one heck of an inverter,
>>more weight, little to no benefit. If I'm wrong, I know I'll hear about
>>it....
400 Hz AC equipment was chosen for aircraft applications
because the equipment was about 1/6th the volume and weigh
of the 60 Hz counterparts used on earthbound applications.
I used to build 400 Hz inverters for operating electric
gyros and other accessories needing 115 VAC and 26 VAC
excitation. An inverter to run a gyro (30 watt) is about
20 cubic inches and 1 pound.
The parts are fairly common . . . I could probably publish
a schematic and bill of materials. I'll have to call the
guys where I used to work about 20 years ago and see if
they can scrape up some drawings.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( still understand knothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Canopy / Roto_Zip |
I must admit I am a tool hound/collecter by nature. Is it necessary to build
a
RV...no. BUT, I am glad I got it, It is really a handy tool. Its basically a
large dremel tool. Get the one with the handle built in, its about 10 bucks
more. The 3-M Rol-lock chucked up in the spindle is very handy. The spirial cut
drills really do work as advertised. I swear I own no stock in the company.
tekrep(at)wans.net on 05/19/2000 09:57:49 PM
Please respond to rocket-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: Rocket-List: Canopy / Roto_Zip
I've been wondering about the Roto-Zip, sounds like it's a must-have. The
info-mercials look too good, so I've been skeptical- can it be that this
thing really is all they say it is? I'd be very interested to hear how many
builders have used them and their level of success and satisfaction with the
unit.
Thanks,
Wes Triff
F-1 # 014
ATL
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rocket-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rocket-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
pcondon(at)csc.com
Sent: Thursday, May 18, 2000 6:05 AM
Subject: Re: Rocket-List: Canopy / Roto_Zip
Second that ! The Roto-Zip has to be among the top ten tools that I've
discovered I cannot live without. I also use a 3-M Rol-Lock in the Roto-Zip
and
this tool is greater. (I hate info-mercials...sorry if this sounds like
one.....)
TColeE(at)aol.com on 05/17/2000 07:15:56 PM
Please respond to rocket-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Rocket-List: Canopy?????
A roto zip from Sears works very well for cutting. Terry E. Cole N468TC
..
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nelson, James" <greg.nelson(at)p42.edwards.af.mil> |
| Subject: | Engine mount vibration Isolators |
What does everyone think about the two major brands of engine vibration
isolators out there on the market, Lord and Barry. Is there any difference
and what do you prefer and why?? Also for those flying Rockets now, how
much has your engine sagged over time, (I.E. how much mismatch would you
build into a new install so that the spinner and top cowl match after the
inevitable sag?) Thanks for the info, just planning ahead. Rocket engine
in garage, mount and gear legs hopefully in 6-8 weeks.
James G. Nelson, Maj, USAF
Det 2, WR-ALC, U-2 FLIGHT TEST
Greg.Nelson(at)p42.edwards.af.mil
"In God we trust, all others we monitor"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cctj001 {Thomas J. Linscomb}" <cctj001(at)forum.cc.utexas.edu> |
| Subject: | Tool suggestions for the F1 Rocket? |
I was speaking to a source of information on tools for construction of an
F-1 Rocket and I was pointed to the Cleavland complete kit shown below with
the noted modifications.
I saw the suggestions for finding a Roto-zip cutter on the list the other
day.
Any other must have tools for the F-1 Rocket?
After doing composite work for a few hours, the value of a long flat sanding
block was obvious.
--Thomas
RG-3X Taylor 2X or 3X Rivet Gun $148.00
Get
the 3X gun
CL-180 150 Cleko Fasteners - 1/8" $54.00
RFS-50 Beehive Retaining Spring $0.00
CL-316 10 Cleko Fasteners - 3/16" $4.00
RGS-25 EZ Change Retaining Spring $0.00
CLC-50 4 Cleko Clamps - 1/2" $7.60
ASRD-14 Air Swivel Regulator $21.00
CLC-100 4 Cleko Clamps - 1" $8.80
RSM-10 Mushroom Set $12.00
PRS-37 Swivel Head Pop Rivet Tool $29.00
RSC-33 3/32" Cupped Set 3.5" $7.50
SBZ-1/2 Screwdriver Bits - sizes 1&2 $1.80
RSC-43 1/8" Cupped Set 3.5" $7.50
HS-30 3" Offset Hand Seamer $29.00
remove, buy local
RSC-53 5/32" Cupped Set 3.5" $7.50
DBC12-40 12" Cobalt Bit #40 $4.80
RSC-63 3/16" Cupped Set 3.5" $7.50
DBC12-30 12" Cobalt Bit #30 $5.00
RSO-48 Double Offset Cupped Set $13.00
STH/Y-3 Tatco Hand Squeezer/3"Yoke $166.00
remove, buy avery
RSB-35 Back Rivet Set $17.00
SSC-4 1/8" Universal Cupped Set $7.00
BBRP-48 Back Rivet Plate $23.00
SSC-6 3/16" Universal Cupped Set $7.00
BB-74 Mini Bucking Bar 1 lb. $22.00
SSF-1 Flat Set 1/2 x 1/8 $5.50
BB-83 Anvil Bucking Bar 1.9 lb. $26.00
SSF-2 Flat Set 3/8 x 1/8 $5.50
BB-30 Footed Bucking Bar 2.2 lb. $26.00
DIE426-3 3/32" Dimple Die Set $34.00
RT-811 Removable Rivet Tape $3.00
DIE426-4 1/8" Dimple Die Set $34.00
RTD-34 Weighted Tape Dispenser $6.00
remove, hmmmm
DIE509-8 #8 Screw Dimple Die Set $34.00
CT-196 Microstop Unit $26.00
RS-24 24" Stainless Rule $23.00
CC-40 #40 Countersink - 3/32 Rivet $7.00
ADA-30 Angle Drill Attachment $87.00
CC-30 #30 Countersink - 1/8" Rivet $7.00
DBT-SET6 Threaded Bits - set of 6 $15.00
CC-21 #21 Countersink - 5/32" Rivet $7.00
remove, buy local
DBU-3 Unibit 1/4"-3/4" by 1/16ths $30.00
CC-6 #6 Countersink - #6 Screw $7.00
MP-40 Permanent Markers - pkg 4 $4.50
CC-8 #8 Countersink - #8 Screw $7.00
3MW-7A6 3M Cut & Polish Wheel $42.00
CC-10 #10 Countersink - #10 Screw $7.00
SHP-19 Hearing Protector $29.00
SPR-20 ProSnips Left & Straight $17.00
SG-200 Safety Glasses $8.00
SPG-22 ProSnips Right & Sraight $17.00
DBS-33 Deburring Set - Large Holes $13.00
ADT-77 Taylor 3/8" Air Drill $56.00
BB-70 Edge Deburring Bit $4.50
DBJ-40P #40 Cobalt Bits - pkg 6 $7.00
FP-200 Fluting Pliers $31.00
DBJ-30P #30 Cobalt Bits - pkg 6 $8.00
RC-17 Rivet Cutter $20.00
DBJ-21 #21 Cobalt Bit $1.60
DIEB-10 Dimple Die Organizer $7.00
DBJ-10 #10 Cobalt Bit $2.30
ALT-004 Air Tool Oil $3.00
DBS-SET4 Drill Stop - set of 4 $7.50
FCB-20 File Card/ Brush $6.50
DB-04 4" Hex Deburring Tool $11.00
HDB-12 12 oz. Dead Blow Hammer $44.00
CLP-20 Cleko Pliers $6.00
FV-10 10" Vixen File $22.00
CL-332 300 Cleko Fasteners - 3/32" $108.00
CF-80 C-Frame Riveting Tool $129.00
COMP-KIT TOTAL KIT COST $1568.00
--Thomas J. Linscomb
--aka linscomb(at)forum.cc.utexas.edu
--Member EAA Chapter 187
--Team Rocket F-1 Rocket #24
--Status: Delivery scheduled for July 2000
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | c130h2(at)flash.net |
| Subject: | Re: Tool suggestions for the F1 Rocket? |
If you have the dough, Cleveland is just fine. But check out http:// www.yardstore.com
I got a $49 2x gun, a $6 vixen file, a $14 microstop, etc.
Next visit http://www.grizzly.com for drill press, band saw, and other tools. Dead blow hammer
should cost $18, Snips should be closer to $15.
I buy plenty of Clevland stuff too, but you can save a fair bit if you look around.
Best Regards
Mark
"cctj001 {Thomas J. Linscomb}" wrote:
>
> I was speaking to a source of information on tools for construction of an
> F-1 Rocket and I was pointed to the Cleavland complete kit shown below with
> the noted modifications.
>
> I saw the suggestions for finding a Roto-zip cutter on the list the other
> day.
>
> Any other must have tools for the F-1 Rocket?
>
> After doing composite work for a few hours, the value of a long flat sanding
> block was obvious.
>
> --Thomas
>
> RG-3X Taylor 2X or 3X Rivet Gun $148.00
Get
> the 3X gun
> CL-180 150 Cleko Fasteners - 1/8" $54.00
> RFS-50 Beehive Retaining Spring $0.00
>
> CL-316 10 Cleko Fasteners - 3/16" $4.00
> RGS-25 EZ Change Retaining Spring $0.00
> CLC-50 4 Cleko Clamps - 1/2" $7.60
> ASRD-14 Air Swivel Regulator $21.00
> CLC-100 4 Cleko Clamps - 1" $8.80
> RSM-10 Mushroom Set $12.00
> PRS-37 Swivel Head Pop Rivet Tool $29.00
> RSC-33 3/32" Cupped Set 3.5" $7.50
> SBZ-1/2 Screwdriver Bits - sizes 1&2 $1.80
> RSC-43 1/8" Cupped Set 3.5" $7.50
> HS-30 3" Offset Hand Seamer $29.00
> remove, buy local
> RSC-53 5/32" Cupped Set 3.5" $7.50
> DBC12-40 12" Cobalt Bit #40 $4.80
> RSC-63 3/16" Cupped Set 3.5" $7.50
> DBC12-30 12" Cobalt Bit #30 $5.00
> RSO-48 Double Offset Cupped Set $13.00
> STH/Y-3 Tatco Hand Squeezer/3"Yoke $166.00
> remove, buy avery
> RSB-35 Back Rivet Set $17.00
> SSC-4 1/8" Universal Cupped Set $7.00
> BBRP-48 Back Rivet Plate $23.00
> SSC-6 3/16" Universal Cupped Set $7.00
> BB-74 Mini Bucking Bar 1 lb. $22.00
> SSF-1 Flat Set 1/2 x 1/8 $5.50
> BB-83 Anvil Bucking Bar 1.9 lb. $26.00
> SSF-2 Flat Set 3/8 x 1/8 $5.50
> BB-30 Footed Bucking Bar 2.2 lb. $26.00
> DIE426-3 3/32" Dimple Die Set $34.00
> RT-811 Removable Rivet Tape $3.00
> DIE426-4 1/8" Dimple Die Set $34.00
> RTD-34 Weighted Tape Dispenser $6.00
> remove, hmmmm
> DIE509-8 #8 Screw Dimple Die Set $34.00
> CT-196 Microstop Unit $26.00
> RS-24 24" Stainless Rule $23.00
> CC-40 #40 Countersink - 3/32 Rivet $7.00
> ADA-30 Angle Drill Attachment $87.00
> CC-30 #30 Countersink - 1/8" Rivet $7.00
> DBT-SET6 Threaded Bits - set of 6 $15.00
> CC-21 #21 Countersink - 5/32" Rivet $7.00
> remove, buy local
> DBU-3 Unibit 1/4"-3/4" by 1/16ths $30.00
> CC-6 #6 Countersink - #6 Screw $7.00
> MP-40 Permanent Markers - pkg 4 $4.50
> CC-8 #8 Countersink - #8 Screw $7.00
> 3MW-7A6 3M Cut & Polish Wheel $42.00
> CC-10 #10 Countersink - #10 Screw $7.00
> SHP-19 Hearing Protector $29.00
> SPR-20 ProSnips Left & Straight $17.00
> SG-200 Safety Glasses $8.00
> SPG-22 ProSnips Right & Sraight $17.00
> DBS-33 Deburring Set - Large Holes $13.00
> ADT-77 Taylor 3/8" Air Drill $56.00
> BB-70 Edge Deburring Bit $4.50
> DBJ-40P #40 Cobalt Bits - pkg 6 $7.00
> FP-200 Fluting Pliers $31.00
> DBJ-30P #30 Cobalt Bits - pkg 6 $8.00
> RC-17 Rivet Cutter $20.00
> DBJ-21 #21 Cobalt Bit $1.60
> DIEB-10 Dimple Die Organizer $7.00
> DBJ-10 #10 Cobalt Bit $2.30
> ALT-004 Air Tool Oil $3.00
> DBS-SET4 Drill Stop - set of 4 $7.50
> FCB-20 File Card/ Brush $6.50
> DB-04 4" Hex Deburring Tool $11.00
> HDB-12 12 oz. Dead Blow Hammer $44.00
> CLP-20 Cleko Pliers $6.00
> FV-10 10" Vixen File $22.00
> CL-332 300 Cleko Fasteners - 3/32" $108.00
> CF-80 C-Frame Riveting Tool $129.00
>
> COMP-KIT TOTAL KIT COST $1568.00
>
> --Thomas J. Linscomb
> --aka linscomb(at)forum.cc.utexas.edu
> --Member EAA Chapter 187
> --Team Rocket F-1 Rocket #24
> --Status: Delivery scheduled for July 2000
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul & Gerti RV-4 F-1 006" <gertivs(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy / Roto_Zip |
Sears (Craftsman) now has a "roto-zip" attachment to their dremel
>I must admit I am a tool hound/collecter by nature. Is it necessary to
build a
>RV...no. BUT, I am glad I got it, It is really a handy tool. Its basically
a
>large dremel tool. Get the one with the handle built in, its about 10 bucks
>more. The 3-M Rol-lock chucked up in the spindle is very handy. The spirial
cut
>drills really do work as advertised. I swear I own no stock in the company.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
by mail.eaze.net with SMTP; 24 May 2000 03":37:32.-0000(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Re: Canopy / Roto_Zip |
All these RotoZip commits caused me to do a search on Ebay. I found several
available for $49.95. They appear to be new units, but reconditioned in some way
and do not come in the retail packaging. I believe I'll give one a try.
Doug in Texas
pcondon(at)csc.com wrote:
>
> Second that ! The Roto-Zip has to be among the top ten tools that I've
> discovered I cannot live without. I also use a 3-M Rol-Lock in the Roto-Zip and
> this tool is greater. (I hate info-mercials...sorry if this sounds like
> one.....)
>
> TColeE(at)aol.com on 05/17/2000 07:15:56 PM
>
> Please respond to rocket-list(at)matronics.com
>
> To: rocket-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Subject: Re: Rocket-List: Canopy?????
>
>
> A roto zip from Sears works very well for cutting. Terry E. Cole N468TC
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine mount vibration Isolators |
In a message dated 5/23/00 5:22:46 PM Central Daylight Time,
greg.nelson(at)p42.edwards.af.mil writes:
<< What does everyone think about the two major brands of engine vibration
isolators out there on the market, Lord and Barry. Is there any difference
and what do you prefer and why?? Also for those flying Rockets now, how
much has your engine sagged over time, (I.E. how much mismatch would you
build into a new install so that the spinner and top cowl match after the
inevitable sag?) Thanks for the info, just planning ahead. Rocket engine
in garage, mount and gear legs hopefully in 6-8 weeks.
James G. Nelson, Maj, USAF >>
Hi Greg:
I have Barry on mine -- working good after 550 hrs! I planned for about 3/16
sag, but ended up with about 5/16". Easy enough to readjust with theh 540 --
you can insert shims between the isolators and the pads on the mount in about
15 minutes.
I have some of the Barry parts on order -- as with most other items these
days, the price went up since our last order. Looks like I can sell the kit
for about $315 (4 isolators and the bolts/washers/nuts to install them). BE
SURE TO PROTECT THE LOWER ISOLATORS FROM THE EXHAUST SYSTEM HEAT!! Our
exhaust systems include the necessary shields, along with the gaskets, nuts,
and hanger system.
As far as I can tell, there is no price difference between Lord and Barry
either.
Check Six!
Mark
Team Rocket
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hr2pilot(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Engine mount vibration Isolators |
James both mount are OK the Berry is less $. The Rocket II engine mount
thrust line is 0 with fresh rubbers I DO NOT recommend allowing for sag with
the cowling.The rubbers well sag in as little as 4 mounts just shim it back
as needed.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine mount vibration Isolators |
MY 540 SAGGED IN UNDER 10 HOURS WITH NEW MOUNTS.
TT IN iNDY
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tool suggestions for the F1 Rocket? |
You might want to go to brown avaition tool supply for your tools. I did and
am very happy with them and I saved several 100 dollars in doing so.
You will still need to order some things from cleaveland. I think my order
was 150 from cleaveland.
I also bought a ingersol rand drill and die grinder from Harbor freight as
they had the best prices there. Also the pro snips are the cheapest at
harbor frieght.
I split my order up between 3 companies and I bought everything mark said you
had to have and then some for 1355.
Chris Wilcox
F1 rocket kit 000
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tool suggestions for the F1 Rocket? |
In a message dated 5/23/2000 8:17:20 PM Central Daylight Time,
c130h2(at)flash.net writes:
<< should cost $18, Snips should be closer to $15.
I buy plenty of Clevland stuff too, but you can save a fair bit if you look
around.
Best Regards
Mark
>>
Harbor fredight has the prosnips for 12.95 a piece. Cheapest I have seen
anywhere else is 18.95 for the prosnips.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Canopy / Roto_Zip |
In a message dated 5/23/2000 8:25:49 PM Central Daylight Time,
gertivs(at)netzero.net writes:
<< Sears (Craftsman) now has a "roto-zip" attachment to their dremel >>
so does dremel and i have it but it is still no rotozip
my rotozip has a lot more power and I think it will last longer but then
again its the size of 2 to 3 dremels.
chris wilcox
F1 rocket Kit 000
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tool suggestions for the F1 Rocket? |
I would opt for buying everything on the outset. I can't count the number of
times I lost time waiting for whatever to show up via snail mail. As a matter of
fact, Its cheaper to buy from a list of tools because of the cost of
shipping.....one shipping fee vrs. 20 or so.....Also, the right tool for the
application is a enjoyment, futzing around with not quite the right tool or
spending a few nights making one is not a process I intend to repeat.
c130h2(at)flash.net on 05/23/2000 09:29:09 PM
Please respond to rocket-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Rocket-List: Tool suggestions for the F1 Rocket?
If you have the dough, Cleveland is just fine. But check out http://
www.yardstore.com
I got a $49 2x gun, a $6 vixen file, a $14 microstop, etc.
Next visit http://www.grizzly.com for drill press, band saw, and other tools.
Dead blow hammer
should cost $18, Snips should be closer to $15.
I buy plenty of Clevland stuff too, but you can save a fair bit if you look
around.
Best Regards
Mark
"cctj001 {Thomas J. Linscomb}" wrote:
>
> I was speaking to a source of information on tools for construction of an
> F-1 Rocket and I was pointed to the Cleavland complete kit shown below with
> the noted modifications.
>
> I saw the suggestions for finding a Roto-zip cutter on the list the other
> day.
>
> Any other must have tools for the F-1 Rocket?
>
> After doing composite work for a few hours, the value of a long flat sanding
> block was obvious.
>
> --Thomas
>
> RG-3X Taylor 2X or 3X Rivet Gun $148.00
Get
> the 3X gun
> CL-180 150 Cleko Fasteners - 1/8" $54.00
> RFS-50 Beehive Retaining Spring $0.00
>
> CL-316 10 Cleko Fasteners - 3/16" $4.00
> RGS-25 EZ Change Retaining Spring $0.00
> CLC-50 4 Cleko Clamps - 1/2" $7.60
> ASRD-14 Air Swivel Regulator $21.00
> CLC-100 4 Cleko Clamps - 1" $8.80
> RSM-10 Mushroom Set $12.00
> PRS-37 Swivel Head Pop Rivet Tool $29.00
> RSC-33 3/32" Cupped Set 3.5" $7.50
> SBZ-1/2 Screwdriver Bits - sizes 1&2 $1.80
> RSC-43 1/8" Cupped Set 3.5" $7.50
> HS-30 3" Offset Hand Seamer
$29.00
> remove, buy local
> RSC-53 5/32" Cupped Set 3.5" $7.50
> DBC12-40 12" Cobalt Bit #40 $4.80
> RSC-63 3/16" Cupped Set 3.5" $7.50
> DBC12-30 12" Cobalt Bit #30 $5.00
> RSO-48 Double Offset Cupped Set $13.00
> STH/Y-3 Tatco Hand Squeezer/3"Yoke $166.00
> remove, buy avery
> RSB-35 Back Rivet Set $17.00
> SSC-4 1/8" Universal Cupped Set $7.00
> BBRP-48 Back Rivet Plate $23.00
> SSC-6 3/16" Universal Cupped Set $7.00
> BB-74 Mini Bucking Bar 1 lb.
$22.00
> SSF-1 Flat Set 1/2 x 1/8 $5.50
> BB-83 Anvil Bucking Bar 1.9 lb. $26.00
> SSF-2 Flat Set 3/8 x 1/8 $5.50
> BB-30 Footed Bucking Bar 2.2 lb. $26.00
> DIE426-3 3/32" Dimple Die Set $34.00
> RT-811 Removable Rivet Tape $3.00
> DIE426-4 1/8" Dimple Die Set $34.00
> RTD-34 Weighted Tape Dispenser $6.00
> remove, hmmmm
> DIE509-8 #8 Screw Dimple Die Set $34.00
> CT-196 Microstop Unit $26.00
> RS-24 24" Stainless Rule $23.00
> CC-40 #40 Countersink - 3/32 Rivet $7.00
> ADA-30 Angle Drill Attachment $87.00
> CC-30 #30 Countersink - 1/8" Rivet $7.00
> DBT-SET6 Threaded Bits - set of 6 $15.00
> CC-21 #21 Countersink - 5/32" Rivet
$7.00
> remove, buy local
> DBU-3 Unibit 1/4"-3/4" by 1/16ths $30.00
> CC-6 #6 Countersink - #6 Screw $7.00
> MP-40 Permanent Markers - pkg 4 $4.50
> CC-8 #8 Countersink - #8 Screw $7.00
> 3MW-7A6 3M Cut & Polish Wheel $42.00
> CC-10 #10 Countersink - #10 Screw $7.00
> SHP-19 Hearing Protector $29.00
> SPR-20 ProSnips Left & Straight $17.00
> SG-200 Safety Glasses $8.00
> SPG-22 ProSnips Right & Sraight $17.00
> DBS-33 Deburring Set - Large Holes $13.00
> ADT-77 Taylor 3/8" Air Drill $56.00
> BB-70 Edge Deburring Bit $4.50
> DBJ-40P #40 Cobalt Bits - pkg 6 $7.00
> FP-200 Fluting Pliers $31.00
> DBJ-30P #30 Cobalt Bits - pkg 6 $8.00
> RC-17 Rivet Cutter
$20.00
> DBJ-21 #21 Cobalt Bit $1.60
> DIEB-10 Dimple Die Organizer $7.00
> DBJ-10 #10 Cobalt Bit $2.30
> ALT-004 Air Tool Oil $3.00
> DBS-SET4 Drill Stop - set of 4 $7.50
> FCB-20 File Card/ Brush $6.50
> DB-04 4" Hex Deburring Tool
$11.00
> HDB-12 12 oz. Dead Blow Hammer $44.00
> CLP-20 Cleko Pliers $6.00
> FV-10 10" Vixen File
$22.00
> CL-332 300 Cleko Fasteners - 3/32" $108.00
> CF-80 C-Frame Riveting Tool
$129.00
>
> COMP-KIT TOTAL KIT COST $1568.00
>
> --Thomas J. Linscomb
> --aka linscomb(at)forum.cc.utexas.edu
> --Member EAA Chapter 187
> --Team Rocket F-1 Rocket #24
> --Status: Delivery scheduled for July 2000
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tool suggestions for the F1 Rocket? |
Most of the places have free shipping if you order more then 75 or 100
dollars worth of tools. And that is not hard to do.
chris
f1 kit 000
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Lycoming starter ring gear/pulley options |
>speaking of starter ring gears, why is there 2 types, what are the advantages
>and disadvantages of the 2, i need to know soon as i may purchase an engine
>tommorrow.
>>There are (at least) two ring castings for the lycomming (the casting is
about
>>the size of a dinner plate and dished shaped). The difference is the
casted-in
>>pulley diameter, The other variable in the mix is the steel tooth ring
that is
>>fitted (interference) onto the casting ...one being 144 tooth the other
being
>>122 tooth. It really makes no major difference which your engine has
other than
>>the starter drive gear needs to match your tooth-ed ring. Starters come in 2
>>options 144 & 122 tooth
Early 60's everything 122 teeth. 149 tooth gears came along
later on some engines to get a better cranking ratio.
Current production O-235 and IO-720 have 122 tooth gears
stock. All other engines leave factory with 149 tooth
gears.
Pinion gear on all starters have 9 teeth.
When this info was repeated to the Lycoming rep at OSH last
year, the rep was unaware of the 122 tooth gear on the
larger engine. He went to the parts catalog for the
IO-720 and confirmed Bill's observation.
B&C recommends that every engine be fitted with 122 tooth
ring gear. The tooth engagement is better and the system
runs smoother. Be aware of the fact that either casting
can be fitted with any ring gear . . . the mating diameters
are the same. If you put a 122 tooth gear on a casting
designed for 149 tooth, the gear moves 0.060" too close
to the starter.
>>........ My last post just mentioned a vendor who has a
>>inexpensive pulley for the alternator of slightly larger diameter that
reduces
>>the rpm's of the starter a little ( 10 to 12 % if I recall) no mater what
>>casting you have on your ring gear......
B&C has offered the small pulley on their ND alternators since
day one. IF the rotor is balanced well then the positives
for running the alternator faster outweigh the negatives.
You get better output from the alternator at ground operating
RPMs and better cowl clearances. The exemplary demonstrated
service life of these alternators shows there are no life
issues to be addressed by running the alternator slower.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LKDAUDT2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy / Roto_Zip |
Went out and bought the Roto-Zip. Had a little time in the Hosp. this week
and havent had a time to use it yet.. Looking forward to that...Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Canopy / Roto_Zip |
Hope the Roto-Zip didn't put you in the hospital!
Jim
LKDAUDT2(at)aol.com wrote:
> Went out and bought the Roto-Zip. Had a little time in the Hosp. this week
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Knight <knightair(at)lv.rmci.net> |
| Subject: | Knight Aircraft Upholstery Products |
Rocket Builders:
I have moved to Las Vegas. Please note my new telephone number and e-mail
address.
I have been in the upholstery business for 28 years and have been making
upholstery products for kitplanes for 16 years. I have interior kits
available for the Harmon Rocket. I also have cabin covers and other items.
I am the supplier of upholstery products for several kitplane manufacturers.
A list of other kitplane interior products available upon request.
For more information, call Knight Aircraft Interiors, Inc., at (702)
207-6681 or e-mail me at knightair(at)lv.rmci.net. If you e- mail for
information, please mention either "Knight" or "Upholstery" in your
reference line so I can give your request my immediate attention. Photos
available upon request.
Sincerely,
KNIGHT AIRCRAFT INTERIORS, INC.
"Fly by Knight" Upholstery Products
Sam Knight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hr2pilot(at)aol.com |
Congradulations Peter Harrison Vancover,BC # 58
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dlbenham" <dlbenham(at)smithville.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New Rocket II |
John:
Didn't Peter Harrison build a HR 2 a few years back ? ( 1995) Is he starting
his own Air Force wing complete with all Rockets? :-)
Dallas Benham
398DB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hr2pilot(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: New Rocket II |
Peter also had the first kit built Rocket II
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Can you cut EGT &CHT sensor wires? |
>
>According to Bob's book and the uMonitor instructions, it is important
>to use the same type/size of wire and connectors for the intermediate
>cable runs. Each connection of different metals creates another
>thermocouple junction. By using the same materials in the intermediate
>cables, the effects of these extra junctions will cancle out.
See http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/excerpt.pdf
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mbowen(at)cybersurfers.net |
by mail.cybersurfers.net with SMTP; 2 Jun 2000 13":10:42.-0000(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Bakersfield FlyIn |
The annual Bakersfield, CA fly-in BBQ is Saturday June 3. Lots of Rockets and
RV's
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ualcapdan(at)aol.com |
Please unsubscribe me. Thanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Starn" <jhstarn(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | $50,000 FREE ride |
Went to Bakerfield on Sat, RV's, Rockets, food and great company all at one
place at one time. Many thanks to the "Bunch", Tom "Gummibear" Gummo and
last but first the Great John Harmon of HR II fame. Have ridden in several
RV's but saturday was my first in a Rocket. I've been working on Gummibears
rocket project for a couple years and can't wait to fill his back seat. For
those of you trying to deside what to build take a look at the cost vs
performance of a Rocket HR II. We who know John know of his short and to the
point answers. The rest of this message is for John.
2 U, Thx.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List: $50,000 FREE ride |
John Starn wrote:
>
We who know John know of his short and to the
> point answers. The rest of this message is for John.
>
> 2 U, Thx.
>
John I second that, flying my RV-6 for the last eleven
years has been and is a very enjoyable experience but
the ride in your Rocket II was fantastic.
Thank you,
Jerry Springer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Harry Paine <hpaine(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Annual Bakoland BBQ |
Well another Bakoland BBQ has come & gone and it was only 95 degrees,
at least thats what the natives say. It was 65 where I live so I stayed in
the shade as much as possible. Ive been goin 5 years now and it was the
smallest airplane attended one so far. However there
were about 12 rockets that showed up. I took pictures of at least 10.
Some of the coastal folks said it was too hot & left. BBQ was great
but mine was better! I plan on having another one when my project is
finished. Pictures from BBQ will be posted in about a week when I
get them back.
Harry Paine
motor done working on panel
________________________________________________________________________________
User-Agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh-Edition/5.02.2022
| From: | KAOS <kaos(at)captainkaos.com> |
--
http://www.captainkaos.com
kaos(at)captainkaos.com
pig(at)captainkaos.com
After some good work from TR
they have an updated link on there web page
(newsletter )
check it out
keep it up TR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Warren Gretz <warrengretz(at)gretzaero.com> |
list-ez , RV List
| Subject: | Gretz Aero Cyber Problems |
Greetings, I found out last night and checked out the problem today and
I am not receiving any order sent to Gretz Aero by way of my website. I
am not sure of the problem fix as yet. If you placed an order with me
lately (last few weeks) and have not heard from me, please e-mail me
right away and describe what you want to order. Or, you may call me in
the evenings or on the weekends and place the order again. I also have a
recorder on the phone line.
My website address is http://www.gretzaero.com but, at this
time do not place orders by way of the website. I will post a notice
when it is fixed. Please call me or send me an e-mail in the meantime.
Sorry for the inconvience.
Warren Gretz
Gretz Aero
303-770-3811 evenings and weekends, or leave a message on the recorder
warrengretz(at)gretzaero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack" <jnchodge(at)earthlink.net> |
Greetings, I'm looking in K&N's catalog trying to figure out what air
filter fits on John's alternate air valve. Does anyone have a part # ?
Thanks for the help.
Jack jnchodge(at)earthlink.net
HR2, RAL, gettin closer but still pluggin along after 5 yrs on electrical &
stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hr2pilot(at)aol.com |
Ha Jack, I went to the motorcycle shop and picked up a 3 "i. d. inlet
filter, around $20
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gummos" <tg1965(at)linkline.com> |
Guys, (are there any Gal rocket builders???)
THESE ARE MY OPINIONS AND ARE BASED ON WHAT I BELEIVE TO BE TRUE. TAKE IT
FOR WHAT IT IS WORTH.
Question: Why haven't there been any law suits between John and Van's? It
sounds like he "stole" the RV-3 and RV-4 to make the Rocket I and Rocket II.
My guess is that he talked to Van and Van didn't want to have anything to do
with the Rocket. (DAMN THOSE LAW SUITS!!!!!)
Question: Did Team Rocket come to John and ask to improve his design? I
believe the answer is YES.
Question: Did Team Rocket offer John a fee for each kit they sold?
Again, I believe the answer is YES.
I think there is more to the story than John didn't want to do a quick
built. I beleive there was an agreement between the two parties which was
broken. I sure don't know the whole story nor do I think it is important to
us builders.
I started with John and will finish with him. I have purchased items
from Team Rocket. Both companies have treated me properly. I can
understand that John is not happy with Team Rocket but I have never heard
him tell anybody to not get the F-1.
Lets get back to building one of the best planes out there.
BTW, I heard several of the RV-4 / RV-6 pilots ask why haven't any of you
Rocket pilots raced your planes. I beleive a challange has been made.
Tom Gummo
Apple Valley, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: HRII verse F-1 |
Question: Why haven't there been any law suits between John and Van's? It
sounds like he "stole" the RV-3 and RV-4 to make the Rocket I and Rocket II.
My guess is that he talked to Van and Van didn't want to have anything to do
with the Rocket. (DAMN THOSE LAW SUITS!!!!!)
I doubt that any experimental plane is has that much protection since its a
kit. Just my thoughts
Question: Did Team Rocket come to John and ask to improve his design? I
believe the answer is YES.
Did John and mark talk yes
Question: Did Team Rocket offer John a fee for each kit they sold?
Again, I believe the answer is YES.
Does team rocket pay a fee. NO
I think there is more to the story than John didn't want to do a quick
built. I beleive there was an agreement between the two parties which was
broken. I sure don't know the whole story nor do I think it is important to
us builders.
I started with John and will finish with him. I have purchased items
from Team Rocket. Both companies have treated me properly. I can
understand that John is not happy with Team Rocket but I have never heard
him tell anybody to not get the F-1.
Lets get back to building one of the best planes out there.
sounds good
BTW, I heard several of the RV-4 / RV-6 pilots ask why haven't any of you
Rocket pilots raced your planes. I beleive a challange has been made.
Tom Gummo
Apple Valley, CA
Let me get mine finished at i will be up for a challange.
CHris
F1 rocket
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nelson, James" <greg.nelson(at)p42.edwards.af.mil> |
I plan on racing when my F-1 is done. Jack pot NV over the 4 July weekend
is the race of races. Mostly EZ guys now, but us Rockets could put on a
good show.
Greg Nelson
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gummos [SMTP:tg1965(at)linkline.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, 07 June, 2000 12:40 PM
> To: Rocket List
> Subject: Rocket-List: HRII verse F-1
>
>
> Guys, (are there any Gal rocket builders???)
>
> THESE ARE MY OPINIONS AND ARE BASED ON WHAT I BELEIVE TO BE TRUE. TAKE IT
> FOR WHAT IT IS WORTH.
>
> Question: Why haven't there been any law suits between John and Van's?
> It
> sounds like he "stole" the RV-3 and RV-4 to make the Rocket I and Rocket
> II.
> My guess is that he talked to Van and Van didn't want to have anything to
> do
> with the Rocket. (DAMN THOSE LAW SUITS!!!!!)
>
> Question: Did Team Rocket come to John and ask to improve his design? I
> believe the answer is YES.
>
> Question: Did Team Rocket offer John a fee for each kit they sold?
> Again, I believe the answer is YES.
>
> I think there is more to the story than John didn't want to do a quick
> built. I beleive there was an agreement between the two parties which was
> broken. I sure don't know the whole story nor do I think it is important
> to
> us builders.
>
> I started with John and will finish with him. I have purchased items
> from Team Rocket. Both companies have treated me properly. I can
> understand that John is not happy with Team Rocket but I have never heard
> him tell anybody to not get the F-1.
>
> Lets get back to building one of the best planes out there.
>
> BTW, I heard several of the RV-4 / RV-6 pilots ask why haven't any of you
> Rocket pilots raced your planes. I beleive a challange has been made.
>
> Tom Gummo
> Apple Valley, CA
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: HRII verse F-1 |
In a message dated 6/7/2000 6:33:15 PM Central Daylight Time,
greg.nelson(at)p42.edwards.af.mil writes:
<<
I plan on racing when my F-1 is done. Jack pot NV over the 4 July weekend
is the race of races. Mostly EZ guys now, but us Rockets could put on a
good show.
Greg Nelson
>>
Hi greg, what kit number to you have and also how far along are you. I am
slowly building kit 000. Slowly since i dont really hae a clue what i am
doing.
CHris WIlcox
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nelson, James" <greg.nelson(at)p42.edwards.af.mil> |
Kit #8. Have most of Fuse done except for canopy and engine. Wings are
still as they arrived.
Greg
> -----Original Message-----
> From: CW9371(at)aol.com [SMTP:CW9371(at)aol.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, 07 June, 2000 7:57 PM
> To: rocket-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Rocket-List: HRII verse F-1
>
>
> In a message dated 6/7/2000 6:33:15 PM Central Daylight Time,
> greg.nelson(at)p42.edwards.af.mil writes:
>
> <<
> I plan on racing when my F-1 is done. Jack pot NV over the 4 July
> weekend
> is the race of races. Mostly EZ guys now, but us Rockets could put on a
> good show.
>
> Greg Nelson
> >>
> Hi greg, what kit number to you have and also how far along are you. I am
>
> slowly building kit 000. Slowly since i dont really hae a clue what i am
> doing.
>
> CHris WIlcox
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | A20driver(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: HRII verse F-1 |
Hey, If you want to go fast--Get a Questaire Venture....Jim Brown, NJ, 160 HP
3 & 4.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: HRII verse F-1 |
In a message dated 6/9/2000 9:01:14 AM Central Daylight Time,
A20driver(at)aol.com writes:
<< Hey, If you want to go fast--Get a Questaire Venture....Jim Brown, NJ, 160
HP
3 & 4.....
they are ugly
get a lancair IVP with a walters turbine engine
pr a turbine legend or a turbine glassair III
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Archie" <archie97(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: HRII verse F-1 |
>
> In a message dated 6/9/2000 9:01:14 AM Central Daylight Time,
> A20driver(at)aol.com writes:
>
> << Hey, If you want to go fast--Get a Questaire Venture....Jim Brown, NJ,
160
> HP
> 3 & 4.....
>
> they are ugly
>
> get a lancair IVP with a walters turbine engine
>
> pr a turbine legend or a turbine glassair III
Gentlemen;
I believe we are missing the point here.
Let's weigh performance vs dollars.
On one end the Arnold w/ 65 hp goes around 215mph.
On the other, possibly a MiG 31?
Dollar for dollar, I believe the F1 may have one of the
best equations.
Archie
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: HRII verse F-1 |
In a message dated 6/9/2000 12:39:12 PM Central Daylight Time,
archie97(at)earthlink.net writes:
<< Gentlemen;
I believe we are missing the point here.
Let's weigh performance vs dollars.
On one end the Arnold w/ 65 hp goes around 215mph.
On the other, possibly a MiG 31?
Dollar for dollar, I believe the F1 may have one of the
best equations.
Archie
>>
It does that why i am building one.
Also that was kind of why i posted the about the 3 turbine planes. Yes it
would be nice, But I wouldnt be able to afford to fly them nor could i build
one.
However I can afford to build and fly and f1 therefore I am building an f1
CHris Wilcox
F1 kit 000
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dlbenham" <dlbenham(at)smithville.net> |
| Subject: | Re: HRII verse F-1 |
Hooray for Archie. I tend to agree! Not everyone has unlimited dollars to buy
their toys. I'm flying John Harmon's HR2 after I spent about 4 years of time
building and probably don't have as much money in it as some RV-6/ 6A or RV8
builders, if you can believe the Trade-A-Plane for their asking prices.
Dallas Benham
Southern Indiana
398DB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Archie" <archie97(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: HRII verse F-1 |
>
> Hooray for Archie. I tend to agree! Not everyone has unlimited dollars
to buy
> their toys. I'm flying John Harmon's HR2 after I spent about 4 years of
time
> building and probably don't have as much money in it as some RV-6/ 6A or
RV8
> builders, if you can believe the Trade-A-Plane for their asking prices.
>
> Dallas Benham
> Southern Indiana
> 398DB
Thank you for the positive comment regarding my last message.
In these days of a bustling economy, and obscene wages,
those that "have" forget the rudiments, and can buy their way
into high tech aircraft.
There are many of us earning below average wages, but are
more dedicated to flight through self innovation, blood, sweat,
and, on occasion, tears.
Archie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Warren Gretz <warrengretz(at)gretzaero.com> |
RV List ,
list-glasair ,
list-lancair ,
list-rocket ,
list-rv8
| Subject: | Gretz Aero Products website up again |
Greeting to the list,
I was having some problems with my online order form, but I am glad to
report it is back up and running.
If you check out my website at the address of:
http://www.gretzaero.com and you wish to place an online order it
will now be working correctly.
By the way, I have a new shippment of HEATED PITOT TUBES, and my
MOUNTING BRACKET KITS ready for shippment as always.
Warren Gretz
Gretz Aero
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Timbo <htim(at)uswest.net> |
Anyone know the where-abouts of Mark Frederick? I want my plans back!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: HRII verse F-1 |
Hey Dallas. I came down to Mike's cookout along with several
aother RVs hoping to see your Rocket out on the flightline but did not. Why
are you hiding from us? Bring that lil beauty out and "let's get it on!". I
even came down to your strip and did a low pass but didn't see you. Come on
and go with us to these weekend deals. Are you receiving Gary Rogers
newsletters? They advise of all the doins. Let me know if your not and I'll
have him put you on it. TT in Indy
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mark Frederick |
In a message dated 6/12/2000 12:15:54 AM Central Daylight Time,
htim(at)uswest.net writes:
<< Anyone know the where-abouts of Mark Frederick? I want my plans back!
>>
Just call him. 512-365-8131.
He was in the shop all last week. I talked to him several times.
chris
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mark Frederick |
In a message dated 6/12/00 12:15:54 AM Central Daylight Time, writes:
<< Anyone know the where-abouts of Mark Frederick? I want my plans back! >>
Hey Timbo:
I have 'em here -- haven't had any time to even open the box (if you'll
recall, I told you I was very busy with the F1 project, and you told me no
hurry). They are not updated as of this date -- If you're starting your assy
process and want them back as is, I'll ship 'em today!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: HRII verse F-1 |
In a message dated 6/12/00 1:09:53 PM Central Daylight Time, HR69GT(at)aol.com
writes:
<< Come on
and go with us to these weekend deals. Are you receiving Gary Rogers
newsletters? They advise of all the doins. Let me know if your not and I'll
have him put you on it. TT in Indy
>>
Hey TT:
WX permitting, I have a demo scheduled in Vincennes on Sun 18 June -- most
probably at OEA. Should be there by noon -- bring your gauntlet!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JOHNTMEY(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Mark Frederick |
Mark... As you recall, I have the same problem as "Timbo". You got my plans!
Also there are some yet-to-be sent items for my canopy kit... the skirt and
some hardware packages. Help !
Thanks. John Meyers
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mark Frederick |
In a message dated 6/12/00 2:17:09 PM Central Daylight Time, JOHNTMEY(at)aol.com
writes:
<< You got my plans!
Also there are some yet-to-be sent items for my canopy kit... the skirt and
some hardware packages. Help !
Thanks. John Meyers
>>
I'n holding 'em hostage!! Just kidding....I have 'em around here somewhere!!
It's good that we waited on the canopy hardware -- I have a few updates to
include, but don't tell the others!
I'll see if I can get that stuff out this week. Did you get a windshield bow
with your kit, or are you one of the b/o guys on that unit also?
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mark Frederick |
In a message dated 6/12/2000 4:45:50 PM Central Daylight Time, Mlfred(at)aol.com
writes:
<< I'll see if I can get that stuff out this week. Did you get a windshield
bow
with your kit, or are you one of the b/o guys on that unit also?
Mark
>>
I need the windshield bow too. LOL. But you can bring it up with you for
Airventure. chris wilcox
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dlbenham" <dlbenham(at)smithville.net> |
| Subject: | Re: HRII verse F-1 |
Hi Tom:
I was planning to go to the Eaa Chapter meeting last Saturday, but as always
duty calls. Seems like something always rears its ugly head when I want to do
something.
I didn't know Rogers had a list. Yes , I would be interested in receiving it.
I'm still working out a few little bugs in the Rocket, and only have about 3
hours on it now. That means I'll have to stay within a 25 mile radius of
Shawnee for another 22 hours. (wouldn't want to be branded as an outlaw, you
know)
I'll be looking forward to the $100 hamburger real soon.
Dallas
398DB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | New Fuse Block Page |
Hello Listers:
We have a new page with a few new fuse blocks!
http://members.aol.com/aamrelectr/Page97.html
or click this link AAM
R/AirCore/ Fuse Blocks
Regards,
John @ AAMR/AirCore/Mar
ineCore
(Chick the blue link to go there)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bart Fleet <bart(at)bartfleet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mark Frederick |
please remove me from the the subscription list
Mlfred(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 6/12/00 2:17:09 PM Central Daylight Time, JOHNTMEY(at)aol.com
> writes:
>
> << You got my plans!
> Also there are some yet-to-be sent items for my canopy kit... the skirt and
> some hardware packages. Help !
>
> Thanks. John Meyers
> >>
> I'n holding 'em hostage!! Just kidding....I have 'em around here somewhere!!
>
> It's good that we waited on the canopy hardware -- I have a few updates to
> include, but don't tell the others!
>
> I'll see if I can get that stuff out this week. Did you get a windshield bow
> with your kit, or are you one of the b/o guys on that unit also?
>
> Mark
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List: Electrical Tape |
In a message dated 6/13/00 10:09:13 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
nhunger(at)sprint.ca writes:
> Did you know that electrical tape comes in many different grades? They cover
> temperature gradients, moisture, tack, flammability, stretch, color, width,
> ect, ect...The stuff you get at Home Depot for $0.39 is junk.
Hi Norman: You couldn't be more right about cheap tape...They're cheap and
don't last on the job.
We carry 3M 33+...If you must use tape, it's one of the best.
Now the AD. Find it on AAMR/AirCore/Tape Page
Or http://members.aol.com/aamrelectr/Page6.html
Regards,
John @ AAMR/AirCore/Mar
ineCore
(Chick the blue link to go there)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Make your own custom treminal blocks |
Hello Listers:
New Page!!!!
Make up your own custom terminal blocks AAMR/AirCore/ Terminal
blocks
or http://members.aol.com/aamrelectr/Page99.html
Regards,
John @ AAMR/AirCore/Mar
ineCore
(Chick the blue link to go there)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Strobe Light Power Supply Kit |
I'm looking in the new MCM Electronics printed catalog on page 115. Part #
80-735 is a Strobe Circuit Kit for $12.75 They show a picture of an empty
circuit board and a bunch of small parts, no enclosure. You have to solder
it together.
I'll quote from the catalog: "Can be used as emergency warning light on
autos, radio tower or anywhere a strobe light is needed. Variable flash
rate. Dimensions 3 1/2" X 1 3/4" Operates on 6/12 VDC."
Does any one know any thing about this? Could it be suitable for us?
More info or to order your own free catalog of tons of interesting stuff:
www.mcmelectronics.com
Regards,
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Strobe Light Power Supply Kit |
>
>I'm looking in the new MCM Electronics printed catalog on page 115. Part #
>80-735 is a Strobe Circuit Kit for $12.75 They show a picture of an empty
>circuit board and a bunch of small parts, no enclosure. You have to solder
>it together.
>
>I'll quote from the catalog: "Can be used as emergency warning light on
>autos, radio tower or anywhere a strobe light is needed. Variable flash
>rate. Dimensions 3 1/2" X 1 3/4" Operates on 6/12 VDC."
>
>Does any one know any thing about this? Could it be suitable for us?
>
>More info or to order your own free catalog of tons of interesting stuff:
>www.mcmelectronics.com
>
>Regards,
>Norman Hunger
>RV6A Delta BC
When considering any strobe kit, find out the size of
the storage capacitor and the voltage to which it is charged
for each flash. Capacity x Voltage(squared) x 0.5 = Joules
(or watt seconds) of stored energy for the flashtube. 10
Joules is about the minimum you'd want to consider for an
aviation anti-collision beacon. A typical combination that
meets this goal is 330 uF x 250 volts (squared) x 0.5
10.3 Joules. I think you'll find that most kits in the
eletro-hobbyist venue are MUCH smaller than this . . . while
most aviation units are now pushing 20 Joules or more.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Archie" <archie97(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Gear up warning device. |
I just went over the device at: www.p2inc.com and at
almost $1800. found it just a wee bit too expensive for
a homebuilt. Does anyone know of a kit, or a reasonably
priced device?
Archie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gummos" <tg1965(at)linkline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gear up warning device. |
Archie,
You have me confused (very easy to do). The last time I checked my Rocket,
it has three down and welded. What do you need a gear-up warning system for
anyway??? :-)
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: Archie <archie97(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2000 8:26 PM
Subject: Rocket-List: Gear up warning device.
>
> I just went over the device at: www.p2inc.com and at
> almost $1800. found it just a wee bit too expensive for
> a homebuilt. Does anyone know of a kit, or a reasonably
> priced device?
> Archie
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gear up warning device. |
In a message dated 6/16/2000 2:31:41 AM Central Daylight Time,
tg1965(at)linkline.com writes:
<< You have me confused (very easy to do). The last time I checked my Rocket,
it has three down and welded. What do you need a gear-up warning system for
anyway??? :-)
Tom >>
I thought I was the only one that caught that so I didn't want to sound to
stupid and ask. Thought I might be making some terrible mistake as i build
my f1.
Anyways its got to be a joke, I hope so atleast
CHris wilcox
F1rocket 000
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larry boggan" <boggan(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 22:08:51 -0600 |
The gear up warning device is for other airplanes in the pattern?????????
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Archie" <archie97(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gear up warning device. |
>
> Archie,
>
> You have me confused (very easy to do). The last time I checked my
Rocket,
> it has three down and welded. What do you need a gear-up warning system
for
> anyway??? :-)
>
> Tom
Tom, your reply had me laughing.
I suspected someone would assume I was referring to
a rocket, but left it as is. (my minor was psych).
Am working on a Sidewinder on this project.
Am vacillating on the rocket purchase. (have been for
about a year, as Mark knows).
Archie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Archie" <archie97(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gear up warning device. |
>
> In a message dated 6/16/2000 2:31:41 AM Central Daylight Time,
> tg1965(at)linkline.com writes:
>
> << You have me confused (very easy to do). The last time I checked my
Rocket,
> it has three down and welded. What do you need a gear-up warning system
for
> anyway??? :-)
>
> Tom >>
Gotcha!
If you review my e-mail, there is no mention of a Rocket there.
The reference is another project.
Archie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
| Subject: | RE: Rocket-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 06/18/00 |
Anybody done any spin testing in the Rockets?
Vince Frazier
Harmon Rocket II
N314VF reserved
http://www.usi.edu/CHEM/FACULTY/vfrazier/page1.html | From: | "John Starn" <jhstarn(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Thanks for the thoughts |
Just a short note of thanks to Gummibear, Texas listers and members of Apple
Valley EAA for the good thoughts and prayers (we're not in school so you'all
can ignore todays Supreme Court cr*p) You may not hear me for a while but
thanks to the lists I'll still on line and "talk" via a keyboard untill I
learn to speak again. Been riding observer in a 172 chase plane of UAV's,
(Unmanned Airal Vehicle) and got a ride in THE Harmon Rocket. We, Gummibear
and Kabong are still at the 95% level on his Rocket. I go in Wednesday and
should be back online until 27th or 28th. Thanks for all your thoughts.
Kabong
________________________________________________________________________________
Hello Listers:
The Oshkosh 2000 show is almost upon us. Team Rocket will have the same booth
space as last year (#438) in the north display area -- stop in and say Hi!
We are happy to announce our Oshkosh show special pricing, valid thru 1
August 2000:
-the entire QB kit (including the empennage kit) will be sold for $29,999
during the show
-Empennage kits purchased separately will be sold for $999 during the
show
Normal pricing for these kits is $32,700 for the QB kit, and $1350 for the
empenage kit. The show special will save you over $4000!
We will have a selection of our optional parts on display also (these parts
can also be seen on our website catalog). For example, our new 3 lever
throttle quadrant is an amazing piece of work (black anodized body, with
black, red, and blue anodized lever handles), and sells for only $225. You
have to see this part to appreciate it!
We hope to see you there!
Check Six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
Hey Mark,
Is the Emp kit available now? Put me on the list for one at $999. How is it
different from the Vans emp?
Gene Schmidt
(kit #17 resting quietly in storage)
Mlfred(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Hello Listers:
>
> The Oshkosh 2000 show is almost upon us. Team Rocket will have the same booth
> space as last year (#438) in the north display area -- stop in and say Hi!
>
> We are happy to announce our Oshkosh show special pricing, valid thru 1
> August 2000:
> -the entire QB kit (including the empennage kit) will be sold for $29,999
> during the show
> -Empennage kits purchased separately will be sold for $999 during the
> show
>
> Normal pricing for these kits is $32,700 for the QB kit, and $1350 for the
> empenage kit. The show special will save you over $4000!
>
> We will have a selection of our optional parts on display also (these parts
> can also be seen on our website catalog). For example, our new 3 lever
> throttle quadrant is an amazing piece of work (black anodized body, with
> black, red, and blue anodized lever handles), and sells for only $225. You
> have to see this part to appreciate it!
>
> We hope to see you there!
>
> Check Six!
> Mark
>
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 6/21/00 8:12:39 AM Central Daylight Time,
gene@sdc-engineers.com writes:
<< Hey Mark,
Is the Emp kit available now? Put me on the list for one at $999. How is it
different from the Vans emp?
Gene Schmidt
(kit #17 resting quietly in storage) >>
Hi Gene:
The differences are subtle..
our rudder has a larger counterweight area, for reduced rudder forces
the rudder front spar is wider than the v stab rear spar, for airflow
re-attachment (= more authority & resistance to displacement, which leads to
the larger counterweight)
elev counterweights are shorter
parts anodized like with the fuse & wings
This emp is tuned to the F1 characteristics (wide CG range), and should
perform slightly better then what is currently used.
I hope this helps!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Chasnoff" <DChasnoff(at)compuserve.com> |
Mark,
Is this emp. available for the harmon rocket ll? Has it ever been tested on
the harmon model? Is it a direct replacement for the RV-4 Emp.?
Thanks,
David
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rocket-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rocket-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mlfred(at)aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 21, 2000 9:03 AM
Subject: Re: Rocket-List: OSH 2000
In a message dated 6/21/00 8:12:39 AM Central Daylight Time,
gene@sdc-engineers.com writes:
<< Hey Mark,
Is the Emp kit available now? Put me on the list for one at $999. How is
it
different from the Vans emp?
Gene Schmidt
(kit #17 resting quietly in storage) >>
Hi Gene:
The differences are subtle..
our rudder has a larger counterweight area, for reduced rudder forces
the rudder front spar is wider than the v stab rear spar, for airflow
re-attachment (= more authority & resistance to displacement, which leads to
the larger counterweight)
elev counterweights are shorter
parts anodized like with the fuse & wings
This emp is tuned to the F1 characteristics (wide CG range), and should
perform slightly better then what is currently used.
I hope this helps!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 6/21/00 5:23:17 PM Central Daylight Time,
DChasnoff(at)compuserve.com writes:
<< Is this emp. available for the harmon rocket ll? Has it ever been tested on
the harmon model? Is it a direct replacement for the RV-4 Emp.?
Thanks,
David >>
Hi David:
I can sell an emp kit to you for your HR if you'd like -- let me get one
mounted and flight tested first! Yes, it's a direct replacement for the -4
emp. Actually, the attach point dims for all RV emps are the same (well,
except for the -3). The -6 emp would need some mods to the h stab to fit
properly -- a bit wide at the front spar attach.
Let me know if you have further questions!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Carter" <ronc(at)metropolis.slc.net> |
| Subject: | OSH travel plans |
Ant one flying to Oshkosh through Salt LAke City? If so maybe we can hook up
and fly together. Wayne Loeber and I have decided to leave Skypark Airport
tuesday July 25th at the crack of dawn in our rockets. If any one would like
to overnight here and fly with us let us know. We can probably put you up,
or, rooms are available close to the field for $64-69 per night and I can
give you a lift too. Plus hanger space is available for the night.
Ron Carter 801-298-0406 wk.
801-298-2139 hm.
Wayne Loeber 801-278-7212 hm.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
ear.navy.mil>
> A couple weeks ago, Michael Harter, John King, and I flew to the Va.
>State Fly-in. I flew with John, in his plane, and we followed Michael. We
>flew off his aft stbd quarter (nautical talk) most of the way and Mikes
>transmissions were very weak and garbbled to the point, we could barely
>understand him. John said, they had experienced the problem before when
>flying in formation. We were well within visual distance of Mikes plane.
>If we changed position a little, the problem seemed to get better.
> Is this mearly a "positioning" problem? Both radios in question were
>built in and not handhelds.
It is not uncommon for closely positioned radios NOT to communicate
well with each other . . . the receivers are designed to pick very
tiny signals out of the etherial trash. After going to a lot of
trouble to hear the weak signals, the radio may be prone to overloading
from VERY strong signals. Try an experiment where you back off from
the transmitter that's difficult to hear in incerments. You may find
some separation where the receiver "recovers" and you can now hear
what used to be garbled. Further, radiation patters around an
airplane can have marked peaks and valleys in their intensity, you
may discover that your position in azimuth around the
> Speaking of handhelds, I saw in, one of the catalog's, an "amplifier"
>for handhelds. Are they worth the money to improve comms with a handheld?
>If I remember, they weren't cheap????
Generally these devices only boost your transmitter performance
although some may have receiving pre-amps built in too. By-in-large,
receivers in hand helds are nearly as capable as receivers in
panel-mounted radios when it comes to sensitivity. It may lack
capabilities in overload resistance but generally speaking there
is little gain to be realized by puting a pre-amp on a hand held
radio's receiver.
Transmit amplifiers will indeed make you heard further but there
are cautions. Low power hand held radios, because they are low
power, don't have to work so hard to suppress UNWANTED output from
their transmitters . . . and EVERY transmitter puts out energy
on frequencies other than the one you're using to communicate.
An amplifier will boost both the desired and undesired outputs
which may cause you to become a nuisance to folk using other
parts of the spectrum. An external antenna is much less expensive,
needs no power from ship's systems, and will generally let you
talk to any station you can hear.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hr2pilot(at)aol.com |
Congratulations Robert Johs,Palacios,TX the second Rocket II by Robert and #
59
Massy Aviation has taken over the hot wing tip for info contact Dave @
661-392-0838
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: F1 open production slot |
Hi Arch:
Did you catch the new pricing schedule? Eh? Pretty stinkin good -- I might
buy one for myself!!
Rog!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Archie" <archie97(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: F1 open production slot |
> Hi Arch:
>
> Did you catch the new pricing schedule? Eh? Pretty stinkin good -- I might
> buy one for myself!!
>
> Rog!
> Mark
Mark, I was within minutes of ordering, and construction problems,
and Murphy's Law intervened.
Will have to sit back and admire for a few months, until this can
be resolved.
May also have to cancel the seminars I am scheduled to conduct
at OSH.
Will be in touch, you can count on it.
Thanks, Archie
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: F1 open production slot |
In a message dated 6/28/00 11:48:42 AM Central Daylight Time,
archie97(at)earthlink.net writes:
<< ark, I was within minutes of ordering, and construction problems,
and Murphy's Law intervened.
Will have to sit back and admire for a few months, until this can
be resolved.
May also have to cancel the seminars I am scheduled to conduct
at OSH.
Will be in touch, you can count on it.
Thanks, Archie
>>
Aw crap! Sounds like the feces hit the rotary air motivation device! Ogh!
Well, maybe I can put you in at the LAST position sold for the OSH price
(insert your order on the way home, so to speak). That might push it out far
enough...we'll see.
Take care
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Archie" <archie97(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: F1 open production slot |
> Hi Arch: >>
>
> Dang! I'll get this computer figured out at some point! Sorry -- this was
to
> be private.
>
> Mark
Because you had it posted on the site, I replied the
same way.
I have created my first website at:
http://home.earthlink.net/~archie97
for our EAA chapter.
You are listed there also.
Archie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Starn" <jhstarn(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Kabong is back on line |
GREAT BIG THANKS for all the good thoughts and prayers, I'll enclued y'all
in mine. Not up to full steam very but better everyday. Both arms swo;;en
from IV problems so message is short. One story: Tom "Gummibear" Gummo
brought me a Flightline paper with a Playboy in it. You how fighter jock
are. Anyway my Pastor came by and just openned the books (both) was wide
eyed when my wife and nurse walked it. Caught like a boy with his hand in
the cookie jar. Great fun, red faces all about, I wrote "Its just for the
articles" ( no can talk you know)
that didnt fly either. GOD BLESS US ALL. KABONG
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Starn" <jhstarn(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RV-List: Kabong is back on line |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Starn"
GREAT BIG THANKS for all the good thoughts and prayers, I'll enclued y'all
in mine. Not up to full steam very but better everyday. Both arms swo;;en
from IV problems so message is short. One story: Tom "Gummibear" Gummo
brought me a Flightline paper with a Playboy in it. You how fighter jock
are. Anyway my Pastor came by and just openned the books (both) was wide
eyed when my wife and nurse walked it. Caught like a boy with his hand in
the cookie jar. Great fun, red faces all about, I wrote "Its just for the
articles" ( no can talk you know)
that didnt fly either. GOD BLESS US ALL. KABONG
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert & Toodie Marshall" <rtmarshall(at)thegrid.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List: Kabong is back on line |
Great to hear your back, Wishing you a 12 cylinder recovery, every day is a
great day when you wake up, some day I hope you tell us the story about
how you got the nickname KABONG! take care, Bob, TRK ,CA
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Starn" <jhstarn(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2000 8:52 PM
Subject: Rocket-List: RV-List: Kabong is back on line
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "John Starn"
>
> GREAT BIG THANKS for all the good thoughts and prayers, I'll enclued y'all
> in mine. Not up to full steam very but better everyday. Both arms swo;;en
> from IV problems so message is short. One story: Tom "Gummibear" Gummo
> brought me a Flightline paper with a Playboy in it. You how fighter jock
> are. Anyway my Pastor came by and just openned the books (both) was wide
> eyed when my wife and nurse walked it. Caught like a boy with his hand in
> the cookie jar. Great fun, red faces all about, I wrote "Its just for the
> articles" ( no can talk you know)
> that didnt fly either. GOD BLESS US ALL. KABONG
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andy <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | re: a rocket in my future |
I'd like to thank everybody for the wealth of information you have shared. Your
comments, and Matt's list have, as always, been truly beneficial. After about 30
posts responding to my questions, some on the list, and some off, here is where
I have determined so far.
First, as much as I appreciate the "built for the mission" qualities of the F1,
I don't have $30,000 to hand to Mark, especially considering that another
$30,000+ will soon be needed for an engine and prop.
So, since building time is not really an issue (I kind of enjoy it, and I do
have a very fine RV-6A to fly in the mean time), I can concentrate my research
on trying to determine for myself whether or not the Harmon is suitable to the
task.
The main item of my concern is the idea of taking an aircraft, which was built
around 160 hp and throwing on a 300 hp engine instead. A lot of things happen
when you add this much power and when the speed range starts to get
significantly above 200 mph. Its not 20% more stress by increasing speed by 20%;
its more like double or triple.
My concern is not so much with Harmon's parts, but with what remains of the
lighter RV parts supplied by Vans. For example Ken at Van's told me this morning
that at least a couple of Rocket folks (he didn't say how many, but did imply
more than one) have approached Van with cracked elevators. The obvious answer,
according to Ken, was that the .016 elevator skins just are not suitable for the
additional turbulence coming off the prop and the stresses of 250 mph.
I know this is true and have seen ultralight tail assemblies, flaps, and
ailerons rapidly deteriorate when power is raised from the 30hp they were
designed for to the 50-65hp engines that are now popular.
I'll be looking for answers to these issues from John and/or anyone else. I hope
I can resolve them. Performance wise, these are incredible airplanes.
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russ Werner" <russ(at)maui.net> |
| Subject: | Re: re: a rocket in my future |
You need to ask Van's how many RV's have cracked their .016 and .020
elevators multiple times. The Rocket has LESS problem with this than RV's!
Russ
----- Original Message -----
From: Andy <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 29, 2000 4:07 PM
Subject: Rocket-List: re: a rocket in my future
>
> I'd like to thank everybody for the wealth of information you have shared.
Your
> comments, and Matt's list have, as always, been truly beneficial. After
about 30
> posts responding to my questions, some on the list, and some off, here is
where
> I have determined so far.
>
> First, as much as I appreciate the "built for the mission" qualities of
the F1,
> I don't have $30,000 to hand to Mark, especially considering that another
> $30,000+ will soon be needed for an engine and prop.
>
> So, since building time is not really an issue (I kind of enjoy it, and I
do
> have a very fine RV-6A to fly in the mean time), I can concentrate my
research
> on trying to determine for myself whether or not the Harmon is suitable to
the
> task.
>
> The main item of my concern is the idea of taking an aircraft, which was
built
> around 160 hp and throwing on a 300 hp engine instead. A lot of things
happen
> when you add this much power and when the speed range starts to get
> significantly above 200 mph. Its not 20% more stress by increasing speed
by 20%;
> its more like double or triple.
>
> My concern is not so much with Harmon's parts, but with what remains of
the
> lighter RV parts supplied by Vans. For example Ken at Van's told me this
morning
> that at least a couple of Rocket folks (he didn't say how many, but did
imply
> more than one) have approached Van with cracked elevators. The obvious
answer,
> according to Ken, was that the .016 elevator skins just are not suitable
for the
> additional turbulence coming off the prop and the stresses of 250 mph.
>
> I know this is true and have seen ultralight tail assemblies, flaps, and
> ailerons rapidly deteriorate when power is raised from the 30hp they were
> designed for to the 50-65hp engines that are now popular.
>
> I'll be looking for answers to these issues from John and/or anyone else.
I hope
> I can resolve them. Performance wise, these are incredible airplanes.
>
> Andy
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
"Ez List" ,
"Glasair List" ,
"Glastar List" ,
"Kitfox Lists" ,
"Kolb List (Matronics)" ,
"Lancair-List (Matronics)" ,
"Rocket List" ,
"RV List" ,
"Zenith List"
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Low cost tool for open barrel pins . . . |
I've been looking at several sources for a low cost tool
to install the open barrel (sheet metal pins) common to
the Whelen strobe kits, and available from Radio Shack
in blister-paked mating pairs.
I've decide on a tool to stock. You can see a preliminary
instruction sheet on its use at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/matenlok/matenlok.html
As soon as we have the OBC-1 in stock for shipment, we'll add
them to the website catalog index and drop a note to the
lists. In the mean time, if the instructions prompt
any questions for which answers are not obvious, let me
know. I'll be pleased to adjust the text and photos as necessary
to maximize understanding of the tool's utility for everyone.
BTW, this tool will also install the open barrel standard
d-sub pins. Been learning to use a new digital camera that
makes it MUCH easier to produce the illustrated instruction
sheets. Let me know what you think.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: re: a rocket in my future |
In a message dated 6/29/2000 9:07:45 PM Central Daylight Time,
winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com writes:
<< First, as much as I appreciate the "built for the mission" qualities of
the F1,
I don't have $30,000 to hand to Mark, especially considering that another
$30,000+ will soon be needed for an engine and prop.
>>
One other you thing you might want to look at also is what Mark includes with
his kit and also the quality of it. Also I doubt that the F1 will have any
problems like a harmon does like you stated in your post since it was build
to be an F1.
I am curious here since I havent look at harmons pricing in the last 2 years
since I decided on the F1. What is the price of the RV4 plus the harmon kit
and all the other you need to bring it up to an f1 kit. Plus the additional
1000 hours plus of build time.
Please dont flame me this is just a curiousity question.
chris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Archie" <archie97(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: re: a rocket in my future |
> First, as much as I appreciate the "built for the mission" qualities of
the F1,
> I don't have $30,000 to hand to Mark, especially considering that another
> $30,000+ will soon be needed for an engine and prop.
Andy,
I have mused this considerably, and found that purchase of the F1
will be a better all around deal, including cost.
Will not take time for the math here, but remember yesterday is history,
today is the present, and tomorrow is the future.
How many futures do we have to look forward to?
Also, keep in mind, that you can shop around, find a good engine
and prop for about $10k that will give you hundreds of hours
of good flight time, that may need OH in a few years while
the treasury replenishes.
Mark is an easy person to work with, has a great product,
and will help find financing solutions.
I am not diminishing John Harmon's product. He started this
revolution, and it is great. Mark has taken it a step,(or several),
further.
Archie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hr2pilot(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: re: a rocket in my future |
Before you make a decision get a ride in the Rocket. All the parts to
construct an
airframe is under $15 K.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andy <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: re: a rocket in my future |
> Before you make a decision get a ride in the Rocket. All the parts to
> construct an airframe is under $15 K.
> John
>
I'd like to John. Any flying or near completion in or near Colorado? Will
you be at the EAA fly-in in Sacramento this summer?
What are your thoughts on the light skinned elevator issue. Do you see a
benefit for a heavier skin on the elevators, rudder, and flaps?
Thanks,
Andy
I'll try to save anything else until I read your info pack.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert & Toodie Marshall" <rtmarshall(at)thegrid.net> |
| Subject: | Re: re: a rocket in my future |
Hi Archie, I am a rocket builder out here in CA, I am going Harmon for
several reasons, First and foremost ,I always wanted to build a complete
airplane, I am a first time builder, I am at 3000 hrs and 2.5 years and
hoping to fly this year! I also cannot afford 30K for the F1 plus all of
the other stuff that you have to buy, the self satisfaction in knowing that
you did it, its yours, not someone else's is incredible, people just say
WOW! and walk away shaking their heads, instead of thinking all it takes is
bucks. I must be old fashioned and get a great deal from hard work, part of
the problems this county faces today is from the instant gratification
society that has been created, any way I hope you go Harmon and those ten
grand engine and props are real hard to find,I know ! Have a great day ,
Bob, TRK,CA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Archie" <archie97(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Friday, June 30, 2000 6:06 AM
Subject: Re: Rocket-List: re: a rocket in my future
>
>
> > First, as much as I appreciate the "built for the mission" qualities of
> the F1,
> > I don't have $30,000 to hand to Mark, especially considering that
another
> > $30,000+ will soon be needed for an engine and prop.
>
> Andy,
> I have mused this considerably, and found that purchase of the F1
> will be a better all around deal, including cost.
> Will not take time for the math here, but remember yesterday is history,
> today is the present, and tomorrow is the future.
> How many futures do we have to look forward to?
> Also, keep in mind, that you can shop around, find a good engine
> and prop for about $10k that will give you hundreds of hours
> of good flight time, that may need OH in a few years while
> the treasury replenishes.
> Mark is an easy person to work with, has a great product,
> and will help find financing solutions.
> I am not diminishing John Harmon's product. He started this
> revolution, and it is great. Mark has taken it a step,(or several),
> further.
> Archie
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ronc" <ronc(at)metropolis.slc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: re: a rocket in my future |
Andy-
There are two home built John Harmon Rockets in utah and we give rides all
the time!
Definately go with the .020 elev. skins.
You can certainly build a Harmon rocket on the pay as you go basis. Thats
what I did. When you are done building you dont have anyone to pay off-
thats great. However, during the last year of construction I was spending
$thousands per month gertting all the details in place. So whats the
difference if you finance the $30K and get on with it, make the payments,
and get done sooner or drop serious unpredictable green each month to make
it all happen? One concept that I had not factored in was the idea that you
need alot of the parts simultaneously to make progress on the plane. Some
times you just have to spend the money to get the parts to figure out how to
solve the assembly of several overlapping systems. This really became the
case in the engine installation. The bottom line is either way you spend the
cash. Arranging for a line of short term credit may allow you to progress at
a smoother and faster rate. You may also recoup some of the interest charges
by not making so many purchasing errors. Aircraft spruce has a 30 day limit
on returns by the way. Thats why I've got a box of plumbing fittings
collecting dust.
As for Rocket rides if you cant make it here I would love to fly over to CO
and give you a ride- (for the cost of a good lunch)- Sounds like a fun one
day trip.
Ron Carter
801-298-0406
801-298-2139 hm.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andy" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
Sent: Friday, June 30, 2000 7:53 AM
Subject: Re: Rocket-List: re: a rocket in my future
>
> > Before you make a decision get a ride in the Rocket. All the parts to
> > construct an airframe is under $15 K.
> > John
> >
>
> I'd like to John. Any flying or near completion in or near Colorado? Will
> you be at the EAA fly-in in Sacramento this summer?
>
> What are your thoughts on the light skinned elevator issue. Do you see a
> benefit for a heavier skin on the elevators, rudder, and flaps?
>
> Thanks,
> Andy
>
> I'll try to save anything else until I read your info pack.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
by mail.eaze.net with SMTP; 30 Jun 2000 19":10:22.-0000(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Panel Planner Software |
Any one out there use the "Panel Planner or Panel Planner Pro Software"
to layout your instrument panel. If so, how did it work out and was it
worth the price ? Also if anyone is finished with theirs and would like
to sell the software I am interested.
Doug in Texas
817-795-8100
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | FlyinJon(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: re: a rocket in my future |
Check with John Harmon, his rocket (the prototype) has well over 1000 hours
on the airframe and no cracks. Also, if you take a ride with Mark you will
be flying in a Harmon Rocket, not a F1. Last, it is the SAME airplane with
very few modifications. Its still a Harmon Rocket. John Lauer
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: re: a rocket in my future |
In a message dated 6/30/2000 8:24:38 AM Central Daylight Time,
Hr2pilot(at)aol.com writes:
<< Before you make a decision get a ride in the Rocket. All the parts to
construct an
airframe is under $15 K.
John
>>
How much is your kit John and do you get any credit back from Vans since I
have it at 13,000 to purchase a RV4 kit that has all the electonic trim flaps
etc that come on the F1. That also doesnt include all the great fiberglass
parts that Mark produces.
We should make this as much as an apples to apples quote so people know which
kit to buy. A slow build, yours or Marks quick build. There both good kits
I know this since I almost bought yours, but I didnt have 2000 plus hours to
build. The 1000 hours for an complete F1 will be hard enough.
Thanks
Chris WIilcox
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: re: a rocket in my future |
In a message dated 6/30/2000 2:01:45 PM Central Daylight Time,
FlyinJon(at)aol.com writes:
<< Check with John Harmon, his rocket (the prototype) has well over 1000
hours
on the airframe and no cracks. Also, if you take a ride with Mark you will
be flying in a Harmon Rocket, not a F1. Last, it is the SAME airplane with
very few modifications. Its still a Harmon Rocket. John Lauer >>
Marks has more then a few modifications to it. It was a harmon rocket
intially and its closer to a F1 now. Talk to Mark about the differences,
before you say there the same aircraft since there not.
But whatever way anyone goes there both great aircraft. One just takes a lot
longer to build
Chris Wilcox
F1 rocket kit 000
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hr2pilot(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: re: a rocket in my future |
The parts from Van's Wing,Tale and Fuslage should add up to around $7,000
with the parts you don't need deleted. The airframe kit I supply is $5466 +
crating
and shiping. then the parts that are not in the kit will add up to another
$2,000 to
$2,500.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George True <true(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel Planner Software |
Doug,
I have played with the Panel Planner software for over a year now. I'm still the
better part of a year from
even having to think about cutting holes in my instrument panel. I have probably
gone through several dozen
versions of what my RV-8 panel will look like, each time it gets a little closer
to what the actual thing
will eventually be. There's only so much you can do with it this far ahead of
time, because things are
changing so fast in avionics that by the time I am ready to cut metal, there will
be entirely new choices
available.
The real value of Panel Planner as a tool is allowing you to juxtapose different
instruments in a lot of
different ways to arrive at a layout that is both visually appealing and ergonomically
well thought out. I
have done panels that are all digital, all analog, and various combinations of
analog and digital. I have
done "dream" panels that in real life would cost more than the rest of the airplane,
as well as some very
sensible and economical "bare bones" panels. After awhile, you get familiar enough
with the software that
you can pull together a complete panel in about 20 minutes or so. Overall, I find
it to be a very valuable
tool in allowing you to try out a lot of different layouts so you can arrive at
the one that works and looks
best to you.
Now the downsides. First, I have found it to be a pretty "buggy" piece of software.
I have never been able
to get it to print out the lifesize color tiles that get pieced together into a
lifesize panel printout.
Mine always come out looking like a Salvador Dali painting.
Earlier this year when I reformatted my hard drive and had to reinstall the program,
it developed some
additional bugs that it didn't have before, the most annoying of which is that
when I drag an instrument
over the top of another one, the one underneath gets smeared and fragmented. Also,
in my opinion, the
equipment database is woefully lacking. You're supposed to be able to download
more recent additions to the
equipment database off their website, and I've tried to do this a number of times,
but I've never been able
to integrate the new instruments into the software's database, and it can't seem
to find them if they're in
a separate folder.
Randy Lervold also had an unpleasant surprise with Panel Planner. He used it as
a lifesize template to cut
his instrument holes, like you're supposed to be able to do, and then discovered
that Panel Planner was off
on a lot of it's dimensions. Not only did he trash a good instrument panel, but
he discovered that
instruments he had already purchased would not fit.
The original designer of Panel Planner, Gordon Pratt, has been out of the picture
for awhile. He sold it to
some software company on the East Coast, and while they support this software,
they don't seem to know much
about it. I would definitely not pay for the Pro version, as the only additional
thing it does is give you
depth clearances and top/side view printouts. Since we all know (or should know)
the depth of our
instruments and how much clearance we have behind the panel, this extra feature
for twice the price, IMHO,
simply isn't necessary.
It may be the case that the later versions of Panel Planner have been de-bugged,
in which case I would say
it's worth the money. Otherwise, if you can buy one used from someone for $50 or
so, go for it. You won't
regret it, it will save you a lot of time, and you will ultimately have a better
looking panel as a result.
Just remember when it comes time to cut holes in your panel, you want to have the
actual dimensions taken
from real-life instruments, and plot their location on the actual panel by hand.
Since I don't want to buy
any instruments this far ahead of time, I'm planning to take my dial caliper and
steel ruler with me to Osh
or Copperstate and measure & record the dimensions of the instruments I think I'm
eventually going to use.
I hope this is helpful.
George True
RV-8, wings
dfuss(at)eaze.net, by, mail.eaze.net, with, SMTP;, 30, Jun, 2000, 19:, ;, 10 wrote:
>
> Any one out there use the "Panel Planner or Panel Planner Pro Software"
> to layout your instrument panel. If so, how did it work out and was it
> worth the price ? Also if anyone is finished with theirs and would like
> to sell the software I am interested.
>
> Doug in Texas
> 817-795-8100
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SignCo <signco(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | a rocket in my future |
I wonder why Ken didn't talk to you about cracks on RV's and opted to
talk about the Rockets. I haven't found a single Rocket pilot that will
say anything bad about the RVs or RV pilots saying anything bad about
the Rockets. I don't think it will be a good idea to start pointing
fingers without really reviewing all the facts. Recommend you to get
all the facts, make a decision of what you want to build, stick to it,
and don't worry about "beer hangar talk"
LE
TX
"For example Ken at Van's told me this morning
that at least a couple of Rocket folks (he didn't say how many, but did
imply more than one) have approached Van with cracked elevators. The
obvious answer, according to Ken, was that the .016 elevator skins just
are not suitable for the additional turbulence coming off the prop and
the stresses of 250 mph."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel Planner Software |
We quit carrying Panel Planner at Builder's Bookstore for a couple of reasons.
First, there was a consensus among many who have tried it that there was too much
of a learning curve to figure
it out.
Second, there is nothing on Panel Planner that you can't do with even the simplest
of graphics programs. I did
my RV-6 panel on Coreldraw
It was simply a matter of drawing the basic shape of the panel and then a few proportionately
sized circles and
squares which you can move around in different positions. Others have simply cut
out paper circles and
rectangles and moved them around on the actual panel before the holes are cut.
There is nothing magic about
panel planner. all it really does is give you a color picture of an altimeter instead
of having a plain circle
with the word "altimeter" written inside. I suppose if you were a professional
panel designer who did different
aircraft every day and wanted to impress your customers with some cool looking
toy, then it would have more
value.
Third, It is was quite pricey for what it is.
Now, if anybody still wants one, here is the deal of the month. I've got a demo
copy (Version 2.7) which I got
from Gordon Pratt a couple years ago. It's got the RV-4 and 6. I don't remember
if it has the 8. It's your's for
FREE if you order anything else from the Builder's Bookstore catalog. Just write
down in the special instruction
box on the on-line order form that you want it. But there is only one, so it's
first come-first serve. If a 2nd
person asks for it, I'll let you know its gone before I process the order.
Andy
Builder's Bookstore
http://www.buildersbooks.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Panel Planner Software |
> Any one out there use the "Panel Planner or Panel Planner Pro Software"
> to layout your instrument panel. If so, how did it work out and was it
> worth the price ? Also if anyone is finished with theirs and would like
> to sell the software I am interested.
Yes, I've used it. See my web site page on the experience at
http://www.rv-8.com/pgPanel.htm. There is also a newsletter article on that
page you can download with even more informatioin. Bottom line, I don't
recommend it for reasons you will read about, and that several other listers
(George True and Andy Gold) have mentioned.
Good reading,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, cowling (probably for the rest of the summer)
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lui Esc" <f1rocketbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Panel Planner Software |
I have used this software. I don't think it is very accurate on
measurements but it really helps you with an idea to visualize the panel and
how you will spend your money (more or less).
Overall opinion: It's just OK.
I don't think I will spend the money if you can find an original for sale.
I have the Panel Planner templates for the F-1 Rocket and the HR Rocket.
Once you have the Panel Planner software you will have to download these two
templates into the Planner's software subdirectory in your PC. If anyone
needs it, email off the list.
Saludos,
Luis
Austin, TX
----------
From: "dfuss(at)eaze.net
by mail.eaze.net with SMTP; 30 Jun 2000 19":10:22.-0000(at)matronics.com
Subject: Rocket-List: Panel Planner Software
SMTP; 30
Any one out there use the "Panel Planner or Panel Planner Pro Software"
to layout your instrument panel. If so, how did it work out and was it
worth the price ? Also if anyone is finished with theirs and would like
to sell the software I am interested.
Doug in Texas
817-795-8100
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Gray <brucegray(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel Planner Software |
I've just finished the long process of designing my panel. I used panel planner
from the start. I bought the product at SnF, v2.0. They updated me, through the
years, with new CD's to v2.7 Pro at no charge. I think it's a great product
(bugs and all) at long as you know it's limitations.
It's only function should be for visualization of what you want, or 'what if'
possibilities. Do not use it to cut metal. In my particular case, my panel has
2
GNS 430's, STEC 55, PMA7000S, GTX327, Sandel EHSI, RMI Micro Encoder, Collins
PN101 HSI, STEC Alt. Alerter, VM1000, EC100, PS AOA Pro, and the rest of the
standard stuff.
Needless to say, this is a very complex panel. When I was ready to cut metal, I
bought all the instruments and moved over to Autocad. After a week of measuring
all the individual instruments and learning Autocad in the process, it was done
and sent to the laser cutter.
It's still not done (painted) but everything fits like a glove and it looks
great.
Bruce
Glasair III
Lui Esc wrote:
>
> I have used this software. I don't think it is very accurate on
> measurements but it really helps you with an idea to visualize the panel and
> how you will spend your money (more or less).
> Overall opinion: It's just OK.
> I don't think I will spend the money if you can find an original for sale.
> I have the Panel Planner templates for the F-1 Rocket and the HR Rocket.
> Once you have the Panel Planner software you will have to download these two
> templates into the Planner's software subdirectory in your PC. If anyone
> needs it, email off the list.
> Saludos,
> Luis
> Austin, TX
>
> ----------
> From: "dfuss(at)eaze.net
> by mail.eaze.net with SMTP; 30 Jun 2000 19":10:22.-0000(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Rocket-List: Panel Planner Software
>
> SMTP; 30
>
> Any one out there use the "Panel Planner or Panel Planner Pro Software"
> to layout your instrument panel. If so, how did it work out and was it
> worth the price ? Also if anyone is finished with theirs and would like
> to sell the software I am interested.
>
> Doug in Texas
> 817-795-8100
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russ Werner" <russ(at)maui.net> |
Okay Rocketeers, don't be alarmed but I'm back at the eternal project and
have a few questions for you smart guys!
After spending an hour looking at all the plans sheets, is it fair to assume
that the flap brace gets riveted to the rear spar before the inboard skins
go on, and the outboard skins go on before you need to do anything with the
aileron gap fairing?
Mark has my plans marked showing the aft most rivets in the top skin being
at the rear spar rather than halfway down the gap fairing on the skin
overhang where they would be a bitch to buck. Than sound right?
In trying to visualize the flap linkages without having a plane handy to
look at, when do you drill the 1/4" hole (if I remember correctly) in the
flap for the flap control rod? Does all this happen inside the root or
where? Trying to see this from the drawings is tough. Any flap linkage
photos online?
Also, free round of Maui golf for an experienced (Rocket or RV) EAA tech
counselor who is willing to visit my project while on vacation here.
THat's it for now.
Aloha,
Russ
Maui
HRII, waiting for more AD-41H rivets to finish my last tank baffle.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
>Bob.. the URL you showed is bogus...
>Dennis Douglas
Oops . . . was logged into the hard-drive version when I
captured the URL to my clipboard. You can find it on my website
at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/matenlok/matenlok.html
Thanks for the heads up!
>"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" wrote:
>
>> >Amp makes a tool available through Newark Electronics or you can order
>> >direct from Amp on their web page. I recall that both of these connectors
>> >take the same crimper. It's called a Service Tool II but I don't have a
>> >part number.
>>
>> I was going to stock this tool . . . tried to order a couple
>> dozen and was informed that AMP has discontinued it. It was
>> one of best values around in a low-cost open-barrel crimper.
>> Very well made compared to some of the tools I've been evaluating
>> over the past month.
>>
>> We've finally decided on one and have inquiries out to
>> several warehouses that stock them. See how it works at:
>>
>> file:///D|/0_WEBSIT/articles/matenlok/matenlok.html
>>
>> I hope to put this tool in our website catalog for about the
>> same price as what the Service Tool II would have cost.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ghrhodes" <ghrhodes(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
Listers
Any suggestions on accurately drilling out flush rivets each and every time?
I have the tool to center up universal head rivets and drill out, it works
well with them, less so with flush ones. It seems a hole off center when
drilling out happens too often, then larger hole process etc.. All ideas are
welcome.
Howard Rhodes F-1 003
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Team rocket cookout at Oshkosh |
Hi Listers:
The First Annual Rocket/Oshkosh cook-out will be held during the Oshkosh 2000
show at my house, a 15 minute drive from the airshow grounds. Bring your best
"I can't believe I survived that..." stories, along with a small amount of a
carbonated adult beverage. A sign-up sheet will be posted at the Team Rocket
tent -- be sure to stop in and sign up! Email reservations will work too.
A street map will be available to the out-of-town types -- we don't really
expect you to wander around until you find us.
Right now we are looking at Sat nite for this. Please let us know what night
you prefer of Fri, Sat and Sun. Also please let us know if your interested
and how many people are coming so we can plan ahead.
Regards
Chris Wilcox
and
Mark Fredricks
Please RSVP me at cw9371(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cctj001 {Thomas J. Linscomb}" <cctj001(at)forum.cc.utexas.edu> |
| Subject: | RE: Rocket-List Digest: 8 Msgs - 05/21/00 |
Tom,
I've been meaning to send this back after I saw it and put 2 and 2
together. This article talks about repairing door dings in cars without
repainting:
http://carpoint.msn.com/jump/news/JPAPnews_4018966_6.asp
I thought it might be a lead to fix your aluminum rash. I kept getting more
and more cynical that dry ice would actually repair inelastic deformation
(bent) in aluminum.
--Thomas
--Thomas J. Linscomb
--aka linscomb(at)forum.cc.utexas.edu
--Member EAA Chapter 187
--Team Rocket F-1 Rocket #24
--Status: Delivery scheduled for today (?)
____
From: "Gummos" <tg1965(at)linkline.com>
"RV List"
Subject: Rocket-List: dents in Al.
Listers,
I have some garage rash on my elevator.
As I was showing my project to my EAA chapter, a guest, said that I should
try "DRY ICE" to shrink the dents out. He stated that dry ice is cold
enough to cause the metal to shrine back to a flat condition.
Anyone heard of this and, if so, ideas on what the exact method would be???
Woudl the metal lose any strength?
What are the downsides to trying this?
Tom Gummo
Apple Valley, CA
HRII - hope to fly this summer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rocketto(at)aol.com |
a VERY sharp 135 degree #40 drill bit....at a slow turning speed....(i know
from experience)...good luck....vic, (traditional, Harmon Rocket 2)..."thanks
again John for such a great airplane"!
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi Chris!
I need two manuals mailed to two customers:
Lius Escobar
3003 South Lamar, Suite 105
Austin TX 78704
and:
Thomas Linscomb
3317 Adelanto Ct.
Austin, TX 78733
I also need two others, but wait for shipping instructions on these.
The kits arrive around the 1st of each month, in groups of four. If you could
send the manuals beforehand, I can simply put 'em in with the kits when they
ship. I have no idea why I didn't think of this before....
Thanks!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: need manuals!! |
In a message dated 7/8/2000 12:26:40 PM Central Daylight Time, Mlfred(at)aol.com
writes:
<<
I also need two others, but wait for shipping instructions on these.
The kits arrive around the 1st of each month, in groups of four. If you
could
send the manuals beforehand, I can simply put 'em in with the kits when they
ship. I have no idea why I didn't think of this before....
>>
its up to you if you want me to ship direct or to you. The cost is the same.
only had 1 person interested in the cookout so far that could make it. I
figured out how to convert the manual to a pdf file so you can put it on the
website. Also I figured out why the manual pages are so large in terms of
memory. I have to take each picture out and scale it before it goes into
Publisher. Publisher will not allow you to crop anything of a picture to
reduce the actual size of the picture. It just hides what you mark of as
cropped.
For instance your rocket picture on the front cover of each manual chapter is
actually 10 megabytes. When I get all these pics cut to size I will be able
to have the manual all in one document and that will make printing so much
easier. Also we can put out stuff on the website as needed now. However it
really isnt the answer since adobe acrobat files are mean to pictures.
I will call you monday
have a good weekend
chris
the manuals will go out monday. I also have to do Wes he finally got me his
address last nite.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
I bought a small automatic center punch off the Snap On truck for $20. It
puts small dent exactly where needed. Allows a good start.......Norman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Variable Transformers (Variacs) and Shop Safety |
>I am moving into that portion of Cozy building which requires the hotwire
>cutting of foam. It's been 20+ years since I've had to worry about a
>suitable power supply for a hotwire saw (note: remember to whom you loan
>tools to). The great extent of my knowledge in regards to such a power
>supply is that, Amps kill and Volts heat:)
>
>So not wanting to hook a light dimmer switch up to the house power supply, I
>decided to start looking for a Variable Transformer(Variac), I have located
>a company (All Electronics Corp) that is selling 2-types of these Variable
>Transformers, URL
>(http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-local/SoftCart.exe/online-store/scstore/c
>-Variacs.html?L+scstore+jdcw2965fff8d9f8+963471892). Would you take a look
>at the 2-Variacs listed, and tell me if these are suitable of producing in
>Safety the heat needed for hotwire cutting the Cozy wing and canard parts.
>The Variac that interests me the most is their 5 Amp Variable (Input: 110
>Vac. Output: 0 - 130 Vac) Transformer (#SC-5M). I am also open to
>suggestions and other possibilities, but with my children assisting me in
>plane building I am not comfortable with the practice of plugging an
>non-insulated dimmer switch into an outlet and the other end attached to a
>hot wire.
>
>Could someone please shad some light on this problem:
Variacs (an acronym trade name derived from "VARIable AC") are very
handy devices for generating a source of adjustable AC voltage in
the shop. They can adjust the speed of motor driven power tools,
vary the output from small heaters, -AND- many builders have reported
success with using VARIACs to control the power to a hot-wire foam
cutter.
By-in-large, used with understanding and some caution, these critters
can be most useful. However, be aware that these are not isolation
transformers . . . they have but one winding and operate as sort of
an AC potentiometer. Just because the "OUTPUT" is a few, seemingly
non-hazardous volts, there are ways they can be mis-wired such that
terminal output voltages with respect to earth ground is equal to
your 115 vac line voltage. Take a peek at a wiring diagrams I've
just uploaded to:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/variac.pdf
Most VARIACs come already enclosed and internally wired
at the factory. However, there are lots of surplus components for
sale out there that require the user to mount them in an enclosure
and/or wire them up . . . It's not difficult to wire these guys
up so that they do not present a hazard for driving your hot-wire
cutters or other exposed conductor applications. Further, its
always a good idea to operate your shop's wall outlets from a
ground fault interrupter . . . they are really inexpensive. One
GFI can be wired to supply all of the miscelaneous outlets in your
shop.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Server glitch - lost orders |
We're finding that some orders placed with us approx 7-10 days
ago slid off the edge of the world. With few exceptions, every
order in hand has been shipped and acknowledged by e-mail.
If anyone has an order pending with us for which you HAVE NOT
received an acknowledgment showing a ship date, please drop
us a note.
Thanks!
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: need manuals!! |
Mark,
I also got a email from Larry Daudt wanting a manual so I am going to get one
out to him. He only has a 40 page manaul he said. He must have the orginal
like me. I am printing your brochures as we speak.
chris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vacuum Instrument bashing! |
>If your alternator goes out, your battery dies or your buss fries, a
>few suck type instruments would look mighty good up there in a murky sky.
The 'dark panel' syndrome has been topic of many a hair-raising,
wing-and-a-prayer hangar tale for decades. Virtually all of these
experiences happend in a government approved, certified aircraft
where the technology and design philosophy are carved into
1960's era regulatory stone.
>With all electric, you could lose all instrments at once unless you have a
>lot of back up electrical systems in place.
There is no reason for a modern aircraft to suffer an electrical
emergency of any kind. Wires are no longer cotton-covered-rubber
or nylon-over-PVC insulation. Reasonably maintained batteries are
dependable sources of power when and if the alternator craps. A second
alternator capable of extended endurance engine powered flight
costs less than a vacuum system and weighs 1/2 to 1/3 the pounds.
Certified alternators repeately demonstrate 50-200 hrs limits before
something breaks . . . modern alternators that ran the lifetime of
the automobile they came out of are ready to go another thousand
hours or so in your airplane. Simple departures from system architectures
revered for decades provide operational alternatives to every
simple failure of any component.
Physics and facts don't support the rhetoric. Busses don't "fry",
any battery that enjoys a modicum of preventative maintenance doesn't
die in flight, and alternators (particulary two of them) are going
to be there in one form or another when you need them. MOST importantly,
YOUR airplane is going to be fabricated and maintined under aviation's
finest traditions of craftsmanship and attention to detail.
On an assembly line, the kid bucking rivets has been working there two
weeks. If something doesn't quite line up, he'll stick an awl
into the hole and MAKE them line up. If something gets bent or broke,
3 supervisors and 5 inspectors will stand around for an hour and
deduce the MINIMUM effort and expense that will allow the factory
to LEGALLY put the airplane out the door. Is that how your
airplane goes together?
>So you install double alternators, double batteries, seperate busses and so
>on. Also, if I am not off the bubble, electric instruments cost a lot more.
True. But you save on vacuum system weight and installation time.
The rat's nest of plumbing and hoses behind panel go away. Weight of
system goes down. In 1965 while working at Cessna single engine
engineering I was told that it was worth $100/pound to the end user
to reduce the weight of an airplane. Each pound left OUT didn't have
to be fabricated, installed, maintained nor was fuel burned carrying
that extra pound of stuff around in the sky for the lifetime of the
airplane. What is a pound of excess weight worth to you 35 years
later? What's it worth to have reliability in a single engine airplane
that rivals or exceeds that of a LearJet? What's it worth NOT to
fabricate, install and maintain several pounds of plumbing?
>Vac. pumps have been around for ever and to suddenly say they are no good
>makes little sense. With Vac. pumps as with most other things, you get what
>you pay for. Even one supposedly good for only three hundred hours would
>run most pilots three years.
It runs deeper than getting what you pay for . . . you can pay
a lot of money for trash. If you endorse the "been around forever"
philosophy then how about keeping dual VOR and an ADF in the
panel? I know some folks that would make you a really good deal
on a DME.
I work daily within the morass of regulated aviation. A substantial
portion of my time is expended trying to figure out how to fix
a problem without opening the Pandora's box of recertification.
The system works against truly effective solutions to problems.
The very reguations offered up in the quest for aviation utopia
are in fact making airplanes less friendly to the people who
own, maintain and fly them. You don't know how refreshing it is to come
home and work the folks who are building the finest airplanes to have
ever flown.
You may find comfort in a familiarity with "the devil
you know". However a little study of aviation's history
and some observation of truly modern and (more important)
UNREGULATED evolution of aviation technology proves that
"the devil you don't know" is really a pretty nice guy.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vacuum Instrument bashing! |
>Bob,
> I know a guy who was flying an Arrow from Orlando, FL, to Corpus
>Christ, TX. As he was getting into the pattern, he dropped his retractable
>gear. Suddenly he found that he had no electrical power, and the lights
>weren't going green -- he heard the thumps but no light indication. He went
>to NORDO procedures and the airport rolled out the red carpet in the way of
>emergency vehicles and foam machines. It turns out that his gear was down,
>and he made a safe landing. Later he found out that the problem was caused
>by his flying for 3.5 hours with the alternator switch off. He had been
>running on the battery the whole time and didn't even know it!
EXACTLY!!!!!!! Not one single certified light aircraft I'm
aware of ever left the factory with the most rudimentary
of electrical systems instrumentation - ACTIVE NOTIFICATION
OF ALTENRATOR FAILURE - in the form of low volts warning for
bus below 13.0 volts. . . .
Sometimes we get so enamored of all the things we CAN do in
terms of whippy avionics we forget the basics. I'm working a
problem right now on a certified aircraft that has cost about
$10,000,000 in warranty service in the field . . . the study
is zeroing in on a change in MATERIAL about 10 years ago
that cost under $1.
> So I say that there are still reasons for modern aircraft to suffer an
>electrical emergency of some kind. If you factor in pilot error, there
>could be an emergency, just like above. And I am sure that are other ways
>of having electrical emergencies. After all, they were invented and built
>by humans, so electrical systems, just like other systems, are prone to
>failure.
I disagree . . . certified aircraft are NOT modern . . . Independence
KS and company are the Jurassic Parks of aviation. Your #1 sources
for brand new 40 year old airplanes. Airplanes built in people's
basements and garages CAN be modern if the builder so chooses. The
guy's Arrow would have benefited greatly from the addition of a
simple, $50 warning light.
> To be fair, I plan on going all electric with redundancy, just like you
>say below. But I do plan on having emergency procedures in case those
>redundant systems fail.
Please do everything you can to strike the word "EMERGENCY" from
the lexicon of electrical system speech . . . it's high school
physics and application of rudimentary logic to design a system
that is failure tolerant of any single component failure. Electrical
sytem PARTS failures should not precipitate flight SYSTEM failures.
> . . . When I get to the instruments and electrical system
>on my Aerocanard, I would like to talk to you about it. I want a highly
>reliable redundant electrical system and instruments with good lighting for
>night operations. I'm sick and tired of these production aircraft that have
>poorly lit instruments that can't hardly be seen at night.
Good for you! Please reste assured that it's not difficult . . .
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: DC Powered Vacuum Pump |
>a while back somebody (I believe it was John) suggested a small electrical
>driven compressor as an alternative to a vacuum pump or venturi. He
>especially recommended the UNMP50 from KNF. Their brushless type (for
>permanent operation) costs $ 213.00. The pump will make 2.7 l per min at 4
>Hg. I'm ready to order one from KNF, but I'm somewhat reluctant. Has anybody
>tried such a pump yet?
Is this for normal operations of vacuum instruments? I used
to work for a company that sold STANDBY electrically driven
vacuum pumps . . . they take a LOT of snort . . . like
125 to 300 watts. Got that much extra available full time
from your alternator? . . .
Found this on the internet:
(3) Vacuum loads may be calculated as follows:
(a) Gyroscopic instruments require optimum value of airflow to
produce their rated rotor speed. For instance, a bank and pitch
indicator requires approximately 2.30 cubic feet per minute for its
operation
. . . 2.3 cu feet per minute is about 65 liters per minute
and a resistance or pressure drop of 4.00 inches Hg. Therefore, operating
an instrument requiring 4.00 inches Hg from oneventuri would be marginal.
Similarly, the directional gyro indicator consumes approximately 1.30 cubic
feet per minute and a pressure drop of 4.00 in Hg. . . . It should be noted
that the negative pressure air source must not only deliver the optimum value
of vacuum to the instruments, but must also have sufficient volume capacity
to accommodate the total flow requirements of the various instruments which
it serves.
. . . adding 1.3 cu-ft/min (37 more liters/min) brings the total
up to more than 3.6 cu/ft or 100 liters per minute at 4 in-hg or
better.
Looking at KNF's website, the only pumps capable of this
performance have to plug in the wall. It taks a LOT of
suck to run a vacuum instrument. This may be why those little
engine driven pumps in airplanes are so hard pressed to run
for very long. . . .
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Norhtern CA Seminar 2000 date set |
We have enough interest in a northern California to set a date
for a weekend seminar. The weekend of September 30/October 1 has
been selected. The site will be in Santa Rosa, California. Builders
and aircraft owners are invited to check over the course description
found at http://www.aeroelectric.com/seminars.html
Reservations for this presentation may be entered on the same page.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RF exposure hazards . . . |
> . . . . Considering the transponder only
>transmits a low duty cycle burst and is receiving most of the time, it's
>probably not a problem. This also would fall under the guidelines for a
>controlled environment, meaning the occupants can be told they are sitting in
>an RF field, and the transmitter can be turned off if so desired. Between
>the low power and intermittent low power transmit, I would be pretty certain
>everybody will be fine. It certainly is an area worth learning a little bit
>about. It's a complex concept, and isn't always fully understood by even the
>experts. I still think getting the antennas as far away from the
occupants is
>a good idea.
>> . . . . . In the prototype we installed it outside the
>> shell, below the passenger seat, and then had the whole area above the
>> composite shell covered with a thin alum sheet to act as the ground plane
>> and to protect the passenger from any radiation. (Remember, I was the
>> one who sat on the passenger side in all those demos). I always wondered
>> how effective the alum sheet was in protecting my body. So far, so good.
Concerns for radiation safety and transponders surface from
time to time in aviation circles . . . especially when some
folk read that certain models of tranpsonders put out "600 Watts".
Flags go up and statements are made to the effect, "Gee, my microwave
oven is only 600 watts and it will really toast things . . ."
The "600 Watt Out" and the "toasty foods" are both true statments
but unrelated to each other. Tranponders are rated for PEAK power
output during the few tens of microseconds/second while replying to
an interrogation. Microwave ovens are rated in CONTINUOUS or
HEATING power output which will indeed "toast things".
A transponder's very low AVERAGE power output, presents no
hazard even at 600 watts peak. Most modern transponders
are rated at only 100 to 200 watts peak . . . the need for big
transmitters has evaporated given improvements in solid
state receiving amplifers used at modern radar sites.
Long and Vari-Ez builders were oft cautioned about shielding
the family jewels from ravages of "tranponsder onslaught"
and the practice were unfounded in physics.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Room at OSH available |
Well, my on-again off-again plans for OSH are off again, at least for most
of it, so the room I had reserved will be available. This is a room with a
queen bed in a nice house with central air. The hostess, Sharon Hawkins,
provides continental breakfast. She works the EAA too so it should be
possible to catch a ride with her to and from the show when she goes. The
house is close to a bus line so you can get to/from that way too. Its
available for the whole show.
If interested, contact Sharon Hawkins, 920-232-8554.
Please email me if you get the room so I can get my deposit back.
Randall Henderson
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Room at OSH taken |
Looks like the room I posted at OSH (Sharon Hawkins') has been taken
(Charlie, be sure to let me and/or the list know if anything changes.)
I will in fact be going but not until Friday or Saturday, and I'll just
camp. Look forward to seeing y'all!
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~100 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
Is there an expert out there who can explain how the Balun works!
There is no physical electical connection of the center wire
of the coax as explained in the Kitfox assembly manual and it
just does not look like it should work! The shield is split and
the VOR cat's whiskers are connected to each of the split ends of
the shielded wire.
There are three or four commonly used "balun" (short for balanced
to unbalanced) fabrication techniques using coaxial cable. You can
also do the job with little ferrite core transformers . . in fact
an antenna company in MO used to offer some antennas to amateur
airplane builders that used small transformers inside a molded
plastic center insulator on their products.
It's not easy to explain. Some excellent info on transmission line
theory and grass-roots practice can be gleaned from American Radio
Relay League's publications on antennas and feedlines for radio
amateurs.
I understand the purpose of the balun is to balance the impedance of the
feedline to that of the antenna.
Correct . . .
Is there another way to feed a VOR antenna?
Sure . . . hook the shield to one whisker and the center conductor
to the other whisker. Putting a balun in the system is a mixed bag.
It adds complexity . . . more solder joints . . . should be checked
with an antenna analyzer to see if everything is cut to proper
length . . . bottom line is that you'll not be able to percieve
any difference in performance by simply judging how well your VOR
receiver works. Other airframe effects such as electrical system noise,
p-static and atmospherics can have worse effects on VOR reciver performance
than the fact that you failed to "properly" terminate your coax cable
There's a popular kit offered where ferrite beads or toroids are
slipped over the coax in immediate vicinity of the feedline attachment
to the antenna. I illlustrate this in my book's chapter on antennas
and feedlines. I've since learned (and seen demonstrated in the
lab) that a few toroids are not enough to make a difference. It takes
several dozen to equal the effects of a properly implemented balun.
VHF is line of sight stuff. If you can "see" the station you can
hear it or talk to it and a wet string would probably suffice for
an antenna. The ol' vacuum tube radios of yesteryear needed EVERY
advantage we could give them . . . modern solid state receiver
technology will work with very marginal signals compared to 40
years ago.
Make it easy on yourself. Hook 'er up, make sure you do a good job
with the connections and protect them from stresses of vibration
and environment and call it quits . . . it'll work just fine.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russ Werner" <russ(at)maui.net> |
| Subject: | HRII Bottom Skin Question |
Rocketeers,
Easy one for you guys who been there already.
On the outboard bottom skin, how close does the outboard edge of the
trailing edge overhanging skin come to the aileron hinge mount? Best I can
tell, on the RV4 plan it shows it coming to within 1/16 of the centerline of
the hinge mount. Looks like 3/16 is a more workable number. That leaves
the skin right along the angle of the aileron mount. That sound right?
See ya at OSH
Aloha,
Russ
Maui
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: HRII Bottom Skin Question |
In a message dated 7/26/00 3:53:27 AM Central Daylight Time, russ(at)maui.net
writes:
<< Best I can
tell, on the RV4 plan it shows it coming to within 1/16 of the centerline of
the hinge mount. Looks like 3/16 is a more workable number. That leaves
the skin right along the angle of the aileron mount. That sound right?
See ya at OSH
Aloha,
Russ
Maui >>
If you are asking about the skin extending past the tip rib? Try for 5/8" or
so...3/4" would be better -- you can trim to fit the tip them. or if you will
be using the sheared tips, this longer overhang will allow easier tip fitting.
Rog!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wire Splicing |
> I am laying out my wiring diagram and have several areas
>where I will want to splice one wire into several others. I know this can
>be done with solder seal splices as well as crimped butt splices. What I
>can't seem to find any information on is how to determine what size crimp
>barrel to use. For instance, if I want to splice one 14 ga. wire to three
>22 ga. wires do I use a 14 ga. crimp barrel? Is there some way to convert
>multiple wire sizes into the equivalent single wire gauge? I know I can use
>terminal strips for some of this, but they take up a lot of space and add
>weight. Has anyone out there conquered this problem?
Each three steps in wire gage is about a 2x change in copper
cross section. For example, three 22AWG wires would have about
the same copper as a 17AWG . . . A blue (14-16AWG) butt splice
would be fine for what you propose . . .
The PROBLEM is that the circuit you've described must be protected
for 22AWG wire . . . it's okay to use 14AWG to extend a long circuit
for the purpose of lowering voltage drop but the circuit protection
needs to be sized for the SMALLEST wire in the circuit.
What is your application where the three way split seems necessary?
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
>--> RV-List message posted by: Robert Armstrong
>
>
>Bob Nuckolls' explanation is (as usual) excellent and correctly points
>out that the KISS method will probably serve you well in this
>installation.
>
>For more detailed info on Baluns, you can find a good article at
>http://www.arrl.org/tis/info/pdf/8004019.pdf
>
>Bob RV-9A
>(AE0B, ARRL Technical Coordinator, Colorado Section)
Bob, Thank you for the heads-up on the article. I've
stashed it in my growing file of .pdf "savers".
It was interesting to note the pattern distortion
generated by the "improper" antenna feed . . . I've
seen patterns about as bad on airplanes when the antenna
WAS properly feed and matched . . . all the sticky-out
things on airplanes can do some amazing damage to an
otherwise perfectly good antenna pattern!
Bob . . .
K0DYH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russ Werner" <russ(at)maui.net> |
| Subject: | Re: HRII Bottom Skin Question |
Actually, I'm asking about the main skin rear overhang that the flap hinge
attaches to. Should it come outboard so as just to end at the edge of the
aileron hinge mount angle? Or should there be more room at the hinge mount
than, say 1/16?
If all else fails, I'll be on my back under your ship Friday!
Russ
----- Original Message -----
From: <Mlfred(at)aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2000 12:52 AM
Subject: Re: Rocket-List: HRII Bottom Skin Question
>
> In a message dated 7/26/00 3:53:27 AM Central Daylight Time, russ(at)maui.net
> writes:
>
> << Best I can
> tell, on the RV4 plan it shows it coming to within 1/16 of the centerline
of
> the hinge mount. Looks like 3/16 is a more workable number. That leaves
> the skin right along the angle of the aileron mount. That sound right?
>
> See ya at OSH
>
> Aloha,
>
> Russ
> Maui >>
>
> If you are asking about the skin extending past the tip rib? Try for 5/8"
or
> so...3/4" would be better -- you can trim to fit the tip them. or if you
will
> be using the sheared tips, this longer overhang will allow easier tip
fitting.
>
> Rog!
> Mark
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wire Splicing (driving multiple loads from one output) |
>> I am laying out my wiring diagram and have several areas
>>where I will want to splice one wire into several others. I know this can
>>be done with solder seal splices as well as crimped butt splices. What I
>>can't seem to find any information on is how to determine what size crimp
>>barrel to use. For instance, if I want to splice one 14 ga. wire to three
>>22 ga. wires do I use a 14 ga. crimp barrel? Is there some way to convert
>>multiple wire sizes into the equivalent single wire gauge? I know I can
>>use terminal strips for some of this, but they take up a lot of space and
add
>>weight. Has anyone out there conquered this problem?
>I don't know about the original poster's application, but in my case it's
>panel and instrument lights. I can run all the grounds to the ground block
>but what's the accepted way of getting 6-8 22ga wires connected at one
>dimmer or switch? Multiple 3-to-1 butt splices? Ring terminals bolted
>together?
Here's the compact, low cost alternative to terminal strips . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/minibus.jpg
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | c130h2(at)flash.net |
| Subject: | Re: Wire Splicing (driving multiple loads from one |
output)
Bob et al,
The mini-bus idea is great. It is going in my "idea book". One point however/
We use a
technique similar to this on our flight simulators and the design engineer specified
connectors that do not lock together. Bad news.
The male-female connectors need to LOCK in a vibration environment.
Mark Julicher
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" wrote:
>
> >> I am laying out my wiring diagram and have several areas
> >>where I will want to splice one wire into several others. I know this can
> >>be done with solder seal splices as well as crimped butt splices. What I
> >>can't seem to find any information on is how to determine what size crimp
> >>barrel to use. For instance, if I want to splice one 14 ga. wire to three
> >>22 ga. wires do I use a 14 ga. crimp barrel? Is there some way to convert
> >>multiple wire sizes into the equivalent single wire gauge? I know I can
> >>use terminal strips for some of this, but they take up a lot of space and
> add
> >>weight. Has anyone out there conquered this problem?
>
> >I don't know about the original poster's application, but in my case it's
> >panel and instrument lights. I can run all the grounds to the ground block
> >but what's the accepted way of getting 6-8 22ga wires connected at one
> >dimmer or switch? Multiple 3-to-1 butt splices? Ring terminals bolted
> >together?
>
> Here's the compact, low cost alternative to terminal strips . . .
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/minibus.jpg
>
> Bob . . .
> --------------------------------------------
> ( Knowing about a thing is different than )
> ( understanding it. One can know a lot )
> ( and still understand nothing. )
> ( C.F. Kettering )
> --------------------------------------------
> http://www.aeroelectric.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cctj001 {Thomas J. Linscomb}" <cctj001(at)forum.cc.utexas.edu> |
| Subject: | RE: Rocket-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 05/09/00 |
Mark,
Don't know if this is still open, but here is something I found for a '6:
http://www.aftershock.org/rv_builders_resources.htm
No, I didn't actually look at the material manual, just sent it along,
as-is.
--Thomas
------------------
Hello listers:
Do any of you know of any Rocket drivers having an operators manual of
sorts?
In order to operate one of these ships in Europe, this piece of equipment is
necessary.
Please respond offline.
Regards
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wire Splicing (driving multiple loads from one output) |
>
>Bob et al,
>
>The mini-bus idea is great. It is going in my "idea book". One point
however/ We use a
>technique similar to this on our flight simulators and the design engineer
specified
>connectors that do not lock together. Bad news.
>The male-female connectors need to LOCK in a vibration environment.
Oh sure . . . I'm working on a more detailed article that
will show screws and spacers to put the whole thing together.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
>I think you're on to something. Some of the white ty-wraps I've used in the
>past have lasted, and others not. And what is the difference between the
>white and black ones, other than color. Are they made of different stuff?
>Anybody?
The white guys are subject to ultra-violet degredation . . .
they also don't take kindly to hyro-carbon and ozone exposure
both of which are found in fair quantity under the cowl.
Ty-wraps treated for better resistance to environmental
stresses are always colored . . . most of the ones I've seen
are either dark green or black. However, it's possible to make
a ty-wrap from funky plastic of ANY color. When you buy them
new in original manufacturer's packaging, it will state on the
lable whether or not the critter is resistant to UV and/or
chemical attack.
My personal preference under the cowl is MS21919DGxx clamps
and/or Dacron flat-lace (string) . . . I've seen both of these
products work well for decades under the cowl.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | AMR has been sold! |
Hello listers
AAMR has been sold and will reopen shortly as Terminal Town.
The new URL will be http://terminaltown.com
If you care to be notified of opening please send your E mail address to
terminaltown(at)aol.com
Best regards.
John Caldwell @ AAMR/Ai
rCore
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | AMR has been sold! |
Hello listers
AAMR has been sold and will reopen shortly as Terminal Town.
The new URL will be http://terminaltown.com
If you care to be notified of opening please send your E mail address to
terminaltown(at)aol.com
Best regards.
John Caldwell @ AAMR/Ai
rCore
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Knight <knightair(at)lv.rmci.net> |
| Subject: | Upholstery/Seats for Rocket Builders |
Rocket Builders:
I have moved to Las Vegas. Please note my new telephone number and e-mail
address.
I have been in the upholstery business for 28 years and have been making
upholstery products for kitplanes for 16 years. I have interior kits
available for the Harmon Rocket. I also have cabin covers and other items.
I am the supplier of upholstery products for several kitplane manufacturers.
A list of other kitplane interior products available upon request.
For more information, call Knight Aircraft Interiors, Inc., at (702)
207-6681 or e-mail me at knightair(at)lv.rmci.net. If you e- mail for
information, please mention either "Knight" or "Upholstery" in your
reference line so I can give your request my immediate attention. Photos
available upon request.
Sincerely,
KNIGHT AIRCRAFT INTERIORS, INC.
"Fly by Knight" Upholstery Products
Sam Knight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Wire labels . . . |
Hi Bob! May I ask you how you print your wire labels from the computer?
What labels stuff do you print onto? Thanks . . .
I print onto full sheets of Avery label material . . . 8.5 x 11" sheets
in columns. Then stick the full sheet to one of those white plastic
cutting boards. Use an x-acto knife to cut out individual labels
to stick on wire and then cover with heat shrink.
see: http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/wiring/s817c.jpg
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | JC Whitney Strip Lights |
Product Report,
I bought three of the 24" strip lights from JC Whitney part number TC-24-W
for a total of $13.47 USD. I chose the white ones. These are made in the USA
by Vista Manufacturing. They call them Tac-Lite Strip Lighting.
I had planned to put them along the edge of my glairsheild behind a yet to
be determined edge material, probably stiffener angle material. I should
mention that I'm planning to extend the glairsheild further back from the
panel than Vans. I would like this to be the primary panel lighting with
back up being two map lights on the tip up canopy frame.
These strips have six small bulbs wired together and encased in a flexible
plastic strip. The cross section of this strip is shaped in a "P" making for
a nice flange to glue it on.
I powered one of them up on the bench and darkened my shop. I was very
disappointed. They don't even get close to making enough light.
Just to experiment further, I broke out a soldering pencil and stripped the
bulbs off all three of the strip lights. I twisted their wires together in
pairs to make a long chain of 18 bulbs quite close together. I then got a
couple of 18 gauge wires and began attaching each end of all the bulbs. I
used a wire stripper to cut the insulation and then a knife to peel it away
for about 1/4 of an inch for each pair of bulbs to get continuously soldered
onto the feed wires. This way the bulbs only carry their own current.
I stuffed the new string into the white plastic housing and fired it up. It
works good but now it is only 22" long. I will order a whole bunch more and
continue my strip. I have yet to measure it for current draw. I don't have
to commit to this idea for quite some time. I can test further when the
whole panel is together. I like the white plastic encasement strip. The
light is soft yet bright enough once enough bulbs are soldered together. I
am hoping for a very even airline look. I have several times already been
discouraged by the large cost of high end alternatives. I am having fun
making my own for low dough as I gear myself up to begin the Rocky Mountain
Engine Monitor kit I have now got sitting on my bench. BTY, the current cost
of this with all of the options to run it that RMI has for sale came to
$1572 + $25 shipping USD or $2708.56 Canadian landed.
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Warren Gretz <warrengretz(at)gretzaero.com> |
list-aerobatic ,
list-aviation ,
list-avionics ,
list-beech ,
list-cessna ,
list-ez ,
list-glasair ,
list-lancair ,
list-rocket ,
list-tailwind ,
list-zenith
| Subject: | Gretz Aero products web site |
Greetings Listers,
I have a web site you may be interested in looking at. All of my
products are listed there with photos and prices.
The address is http://www.gretzaero.com
I hope you like what I offer.
Warren Gretz
Gretz Aero
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Lots of new goodies . . . |
We've added quite a few new goodies which I won't list here
except for one item . . . we've checked out a dozen or so
sample tools from various sources trying to replace the
discontinued AMP Service Tool II. It did a nice job on
both open-barrel D-sub pins -AND- the white plastic nylon
connectors from AMP and Molex that are popular with the
Whelan et. als. Best part was that it didn't cost an arm
and a leg.
We've selected a tool that does a nice job on the full range
of pins from the 20 AWG D-sub pins up through the .093"
pins used in the larger Molex connectors. Our stocking
order has been placed so we can take orders for the tool now.
Check out this and other additions to:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/whatsnew.html
-and-
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/catalog.html
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Homemade Air Dryer |
>I would guess anything that will absorb moisture would work. Some diapers
>have exterior linings to prevent moisture from passing through the outer
>layer. That may hinder moisture absorption. The person I know that used
this
>homemade dryer used the cheapest napkins he could find. Get the girl friend
>or neighbor lady to make the purchase for you. Waded paper towel may also
>work. At any rate put the dryer at the end of a hose and not directly at the
>compressor. This will give the moisture a chance to condense in the hose.
Getting the moisture out of compressed air is a pretty rudimentary
science. There are a number of things you can do to "wet" air to
make it give up disolved water molecules. Contact with LOTS of
surface area (like the fiber filters cited) will take out SOME
moisture . . . but once it becomes saturated, it's not going to
take any more out. Same thing with hygroscopic materials like
silica gels, kitty-litter, etc. The hygroscopic traps need to
be periodically regenrated by baking the absorbtion medium
in an oven at 250F + degrees.
Having wrestled with the wet air problems in two facilities
I'll have to suggest that COOLING the compressed air is the
BEST way to get it dry. Our large volume air distribution
system at Electro-Mech took the warm compressed air right out
of the compressor through a fan cooled heat exchanger. The
inner tubes were sloped so that water condensing on inside walls
of the exchanger ran downhill into a trap at the low point.
There was an automatic drain at the bottom of the main storage
tank. This exchanger trap and tank drain removed the vast majority
of air ingested. The next step was to slope all horizontal runs
of distribution piping downward at about 2" per 10' so that
water condensing out on piping was swept toward far end where
there were more traps with drains. Branches off the main distribution
were T-connections pointing UP were a 6" upward stub made a
u-turn with two elbows before dropping to the factory floor.
This prevented water lying on the bottom of the distribution
pipe from being swept into the final distribution drop line.
When the air needs to VERY dry, you cool it as much below room
temperature as possible. I had an ice bath in one lab that
surrounded about 50" of 3/4" copper tubing. Again, down-sloped
tubing feeds a lowpoint trap and drain. The final step was
a hygroscopic filter that would push the moisture content down
to a few milligrams per liter at 100 psi.
For higher volume flows like for spray painting, log runs
of distribution piping at room temperature (air conditioning
in your shop does wonders for drying air in the lines) is pretty
inexpensive and easy to build. You need to use copper line for
this . . . plastic is okay pressure wise but doesn't cool the
contents fast enough to precipitate out the water. You can build
a dryer out of 3/4" copper and zig-zag a run on the wall for
as much length as you care to buy and assemble . . . I'd
suggest 40' as a minimum. Space off the wall and blow ambient
air over it with a fan. Put a low point trap and a good riser
from the trap to your supply line and you'll be surprised how
much water you can drain from the trap every hour.
One builder I met at a fly-in told me about a dryer he made
with an ordinary refrigerator. He build a loosely coiled
copper "still" trap from 100' of soft copper. He installed
it in the cold-box volume of the reefer and put some circulating
fans inside. With the fans running and the box set for max cold,
he was able spray very water sensitive paints in his Houston TX
shop with outside humidities running in the 60s . . .
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hr2pilot(at)aol.com |
Last night in Spearfish, SD Rocket N66GR was lost to a tornado.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | A20driver(at)aol.com |
Research in N numbers says N66GR is not a Harmon Rocket...Listed as RV-4 with
IO-360, owner Rene L. Brunel. Chico, CA.....JLB,NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scot Stambaugh <sstambaugh(at)qualcomm.com> |
was anybody hurt or was it just tied down when it was damaged?
scot ( F1 Rocket #19 installing baggage shelves )
>
>Last night in Spearfish, SD Rocket N66GR was lost to a tornado.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hr2pilot(at)aol.com |
Sorry! 50 GR Gary Banducci From Bakersfield.
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 8/2/00 5:43:56 PM Central Daylight Time, Hr2pilot(at)aol.com
writes:
<< Sorry! 50 GR Gary Banducci From Bakersfield.
>>
Aw heck. That guy deserves better treatment. Sorry to hear about this
misfortune.
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LKDAUDT2(at)aol.com |
I have the wing strobes and lights, aeroflash type,. Does anyone have an
idea where I can get just one more aeroflash transformer and the tail
strobe/position light???
Thanks L.K.Daudt
reply to my address please... lkdaudt2(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 8/4/00 1:45:46 PM Central Daylight Time, LKDAUDT2(at)aol.com
writes:
<< I have the wing strobes and lights, aeroflash type,. Does anyone have an
idea where I can get just one more aeroflash transformer and the tail
strobe/position light???
Thanks L.K.Daudt
reply to my address please... lkdaudt2(at)aol.com >>
Hi Larry:
I put this on the list so everyone will know about this:
Using a brand A power supply with a brand W strobe unit is not recommended by
the supply manufacturer. The difference in the bulbs might over- or
under-load the PS, causing a PS failure. That being said, I can sell you a
12V DF PS for around $85, and Van's has a very good deal on the tail
nav/strobe assy.
I hopw this helps! Maybe Electric Bob can explain the dynamics involved...
Rog!!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LKDAUDT2(at)aol.com |
Mark... Good to hear that you are home and able to sit up and take food after
that week in the rainy north.... How did sales go??? Hope that you did well...
February 10, 2000 - August 05, 2000
Rocket-Archive.digest.vol-ad