Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:29 AM - Re: loud turn bank (Clive Richards)
2. 05:41 AM - 601HD instrument panel (Bob Miller)
3. 05:55 AM - Re: New Builders Warning and Work table (Hal Rozema)
4. 07:17 AM - Work Table (Matt & Jo)
5. 08:12 AM - 701 (ron wehba)
6. 08:39 AM - Re: Snips (Jilson Comment) (Graham Kirby)
7. 09:58 AM - Re: Re: loud turn bank (Jack Russell)
8. 11:28 AM - Re: 601HD instrument panel (Larry McFarland)
9. 11:35 AM - Re: 701 (Mike Sinclair)
10. 11:44 AM - Re: Snips (kevinbonds)
11. 12:28 PM - Re: Snips (Jilson Comment) (Todd Osborne)
12. 12:46 PM - A better air riveter (MElrod3732@aol.com)
13. 01:02 PM - Re: Zenith-List Digest: 14 Msgs - 02/05/05 (john butterfield)
14. 01:21 PM - Re: A better air riveter (Aaron)
15. 05:00 PM - Re: 601HD instrument panel (Rick)
16. 05:07 PM - The final stretch, but I have a question (Trevor Page)
17. 05:14 PM - Re: Re: Zenith-List Digest: 14 Msgs - 02/05/05 (Larry McFarland)
18. 06:23 PM - Re: The final stretch, but I have a question (JAPhillipsGA@aol.com)
19. 06:42 PM - Re: The final stretch, but I have a question (JAPhillipsGA@aol.com)
20. 07:20 PM - Re: Work Table (Joemotis@aol.com)
21. 07:31 PM - Re: I owe 2 people Pics of my Facet fuel pumps between the nose ribs on a 601XL (Joemotis@aol.com)
22. 08:08 PM - Re: Re: I owe 2 people Pics of my Facet fuel pumps betwee (Mike)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: loud turn bank |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Clive Richards" <stephen@crichards.flyer.co.uk>
Hi Jack Had this problem with Rays when I first tried it a capacitor made
no difference. the turn & bank was new Falcon I think, we were advised to
run it for 12 Hours & this seemed to bring the noise to an acceptable level.
Will only know when plane is completed & we can run engine.
Clive Richards
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Russell" <clojan@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Zenith-List: loud turn bank
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Jack Russell <clojan@sbcglobal.net>
>
> Howdy: I hit one of those frustrating things that causes you to stop
building for a couple of days and it is time to get back to it. The problem
is the turn bank. Installed a new sigtronics 200s(sweet stereo intercom)
and everything was quiet on the western front. Then the Icom 200a went in
and when I turn on the radio I can hear the turn bank spinning up. >
>
> Jack Russell -Clovis CA
> 601 XL Jabiru 3300
> Progress update at:
> http://www.geocities.com/clojan@sbcglobal.net/zodiacbarn.html
>
>
Message 2
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Subject: | 601HD instrument panel |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bob Miller" <drmiller@cvillepsychology.net>
Does anybody know
1] how far forward of the plans location the instrument panel can be placed?
2] how many holes can safely be made in the panel?
Thanks,
Bob
BTW, I asked Zenith about an access hatch in the belly, and Nick sent me the following
links:
www.zenithair.com\zodiac\xl\data\fuselage-access-door.pdf
www.zenithair.com\zodiac\xl\data\6-ado-1.pdf
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: New Builders Warning and Work table |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Hal Rozema <hartist1@cox.net>
I built my 701 on two Home Depot party tables $19.95 each. Secured them
end to end and flat be screwing them to two straight fir 2x4s. I did
leveled mine so I could use a construction level at some points in the
fabrication by slipping business cards under the feet and dabbing a bit
of silcone caulk on them to hold them in place. Flat is important, level
is nice.
Moving wings and tail feathers plus tools and tables to the hangar today
(fuselage already their for three weeks)
See http://ThePlaneFolks.Net click on the Construction Gallery... (Also
not finished yet... time time time)
Hal
Larry Martin wrote:
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry Martin" <lrm@isp.com>
>
>I think there is a misunderstanding about tables being perfectly level.
>They do not have to be level, they do have to be totally flat, it can have a
>5/10 degrees lower or higher on one end or the other as long as it is flat,
>corners to corners. No big deal.I just keep guys worrying about being level
>and it's not necessary, but flat is and they are not the same thing.
>
>Got my wings installed today, should have pictures on my site in a few days.
>Larry N1345L www.angelfire.com/un/ch701
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <Rmtnview@aol.com>
>To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: Zenith-List: New Builders Warning and Work table
>
>
>
>
>>--> Zenith-List message posted by: Rmtnview@aol.com
>>
>>Mark, how do you know these things?
>>And to everyone else: I'm about to build the table that I'll be building
>>
>>
>the
>
>
>>801 on and had a question. I have two 49" X 8' pieces of some hard plywood
>>type stuff I got from Lowes that I'm going to use. I know the importance
>>
>>
>of it
>
>
>>being level so I'll take my time and do that part right. But someone had
>>
>>
>said
>
>
>> they cut some grooves in the table to facilitate getting to the bottom of
>>assemblies as you work so as not to have to turn the assembly over at this
>>crucial time. Has anyone else done this and how or what did you do? Any
>>
>>
>other
>
>
>>suggestions for the table construction before I get too far into it? It
>>
>>
>will be
>
>
>>49" wide X 16' long. Thanks in advance. rog
>>
>>
>>Roger Osborne
>>1056 Old Glade Rd.
>>Deep Gap, NC 28618
>>_rmtnview@aol.com_ (mailto:rmtnview@aol.com)
>>_http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DowninFlames_
>>(http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DowninFlames)
>>
>>
>>--
>>No virus found in this incoming message.
>>Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
>>Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.8.5 - Release Date: 2/3/2005
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Matt & Jo" <archermj@swbell.net>
For my work table I constructed 12' beams out of plywood and 1X2s then joined with
straight 4' 2X4s. I then put it on wheels. Being able to move it around
has been wonderful. The only problem is that the floor is not always level.
I solved this buy using my laser level and shimming the feet. It has worked great.
Matt
www.zodiacxl.com
Message 5
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "ron wehba" <rwehba@cox.net>
anyone know how a 701 flys with the doors off compared to doors on ?
Message 6
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|
Subject: | Snips (Jilson Comment) |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Graham Kirby" <gkirby@yahoo.com>
I am also a big fan of Jilson snips. They are great for long cuts as well
as cutouts. Your hands are kept well away from the metal edge. However I
did find that the machined base tended to scratch the surface of the
aluminum. By taking the snips apart and polishing the surface and leading
edge of the base they are now almost perfect! It only took about 10 minutes
using progressively finer grades of wet&dry.
Graham Kirby
601HD
.....Another great tool is a pair of Jilson snips. I swear by these things
too. ...
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: loud turn bank |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Jack Russell <clojan@sbcglobal.net>
RURUNY@aol.com wrote:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: RURUNY@aol.com
Some thoughts.
Is the panel and center panel bonded together well? Are you using shielded
wire on the HS jacks and is the shielded cable grounded on only the intercom
end and not the jack end?
No: shielded wire was not used because Sigtronics said it wasn't necessary. Now
I think it might be. The center panel is riveted to the panel and spar. I will
try the shielded next.
Are the HS jacks isolated from the airframe? Is the
tray the Icom slides into grounded well to the panel. Is the Turn
Coordinator, Icom, Intercom, and all other goods on panel grounded to a single
point
ground? .
I did run a seperate wire to the tray to make sure it was grounded and the I have
tried the jacks both grounded and isolated. No change. The RF choke seems to
work sometime. I will let the group know what the shielded wires do when I get
to that point. Thanks for everyones help. Jack in Clovis Ca
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: 601HD instrument panel |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry McFarland" <larrymc@qconline.com>
Bob,
Drawing 6-F-16 provides a location of the panel which shows the distance you
need
depends on whether you're going to have a header tank. If so, the limiting
factor will be
the depth of the instruments you choose to use. In my case, it was the Icom
A200 radio
antenna connection with a 90-degree elbow. The transponder and gyro turn
coordinator
would be a close second. Otherwise, you'd probably have 3" or so to play
with.
On instrument holes, the structural aspect of the plans built panel suggests
you'd need back-reinforcements
or a thicker panel to put in all gauges. An Engine Information System would
reduce the hole numbers considerably though and also reduce your
installation efforts. I overlayed the 6-pack to a panel for ease
of removal. You might find that approach simpler in the long run.
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/controllinkages/small/instpanelassy.gif
Larry McFarland - 601HDS
Subject: Zenith-List: 601HD instrument panel
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bob Miller"
> <drmiller@cvillepsychology.net>
>
> Does anybody know
>
> 1] how far forward of the plans location the instrument panel can be
> placed?
>
> 2] how many holes can safely be made in the panel?
>
> Thanks,
> Bob
Message 9
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Mike Sinclair <mike.sinclair@att.net>
Flys just fine with the doors off, but windy as all get out in a slip.
ron wehba wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "ron wehba" <rwehba@cox.net>
>
> anyone know how a 701 flys with the doors off compared to doors on ?
>
Message 10
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: "kevinbonds" <kevinbonds@comcast.net>
I filed away the sarrated edge from the backside. Cuts clean now.
Kevin Bonds
Nashville Tn
601XL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ihab Awad" <ihab.awad@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Snips
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Ihab Awad <ihab.awad@gmail.com>
>
> On Sat, 5 Feb 2005 16:54:47 -0600, Matt & Jo <archermj@swbell.net> wrote:
>> I went to Lowes and got a set of offset snips. What a difference.
>
> One more thing to add to this:
>
> The ProSnip offset snips have worked for me much better than the Wiss
> ones. The "lower" jaw -- the offset one that is supposed to get out of
> the way -- seems more out of the way on the ProSnips than the Wiss.
>
> Another thing about the ProSnips (I don't remember any more if the
> Wiss are the same): only *one* jaw has the serrations on it that keep
> the work from slipping. As a result, I can keep the serrations on the
> waste side, cut right up to the line and get a clean edge that
> requires just a few quick file strokes and a deburring pass.
>
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: Snips (Jilson Comment) |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Todd Osborne <todd@toddtown.com>
I found the scratches too. I just put a small piece of duct tape on the
bottom and have not had a problem since then.
Todd
Graham Kirby wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Graham Kirby" <gkirby@yahoo.com>
>
> I am also a big fan of Jilson snips. They are great for long cuts as well
> as cutouts. Your hands are kept well away from the metal edge. However I
> did find that the machined base tended to scratch the surface of the
> aluminum. By taking the snips apart and polishing the surface and leading
> edge of the base they are now almost perfect! It only took about 10 minutes
> using progressively finer grades of wet&dry.
>
> Graham Kirby
> 601HD
>
> ......Another great tool is a pair of Jilson snips. I swear by these things
> too. ...
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
Todd Osborne
Internet E-Mail: todd@toddtown.com
Web Site: www.toddtown.com
MSN (Windows) Messenger: todd@toddtown.com
AOL Instant Messenger: toddosborn@aol.com
Message 12
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|
Subject: | A better air riveter |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: MElrod3732@aol.com
Hi fellow builders: For those of you looking for a pneumatic riveter, check
out
_http://www.mytoolstore.com/astro/astmat07.html_
(http://www.mytoolstore.com/astro/astmat07.html)
This pneumatic riveter is cheaper, faster, quieter and does not kickback
like the riveter Zenith sells.
Happy building, Mike
Do Not Archive
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: Zenith-List Digest: 14 Msgs - 02/05/05 |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: john butterfield <jdbutterfield@yahoo.com>
hi list
I am starting on my tail section (601XL) and have been
drilling holes and wonder if I am using the right
speed hand drill. I think mine has about 1,600 rpm's
and i remember someone saying a higher speed is much
better. I also am curious as to how long a drill bit
lasts before replacement or sharpening is required.
john butterfield XL
--- Zenith-List Digest Server
<zenith-list-digest@matronics.com> wrote:
> *
>
> ==================================================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> ==================================================
>
> Today's complete Zenith-List Digest can also be
> found in either of the
> two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes
> the Digest formatted
> in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features
> Hyperlinked Indexes
> and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the
> plain ASCII version
> of the Zenith-List Digest and can be viewed with a
> generic text editor
> such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
> HTML Version:
>
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/digest/zenith-list/Digest.Zenith-List.2005-02-05.html
>
> Text Version:
>
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/digest/zenith-list/Digest.Zenith-List.2005-02-05.txt
>
>
> ================================================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> ================================================
>
>
>
>
> Zenith-List Digest
> Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Sat
> 02/05/05: 14
>
>
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
> 1. 04:17 AM - Re: 701 Outboard Hinge Plate
> questions (Tommy Walker)
> 2. 08:26 AM - Private Pilot Flying as a Sport
> Pilot (Chuck Deiterich)
> 3. 09:24 AM - New Builders Warning (Cdngoose)
> 4. 10:13 AM - Variable Pitch Props (Michael &
> Donna Heit)
> 5. 10:24 AM - Re: New Builders Warning and Work
> table (Rmtnview@aol.com)
> 6. 10:35 AM - Re: New Builders Warning and Work
> table (Cdngoose)
> 7. 11:13 AM - Re: New Builders Warning and Work
> table (Rmtnview@aol.com)
> 8. 12:07 PM - Work Table (Clyde Barcus)
> 9. 01:06 PM - Re: New Builders Warning and Work
> table (David Barth)
> 10. 02:13 PM - Re: New Builders Warning (Carlos
> Sa)
> 11. 02:57 PM - Snips (Matt & Jo)
> 12. 04:46 PM - Re: Snips (Todd Osborne)
> 13. 06:35 PM - Re: New Builders Warning and Work
> table (Larry Martin)
> 14. 07:49 PM - Re: Snips (Ihab Awad)
>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 1
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 04:17:25 AM PST US
> From: "Tommy Walker" <twalker@cableone.net>
> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: 701 Outboard Hinge Plate
> questions
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Tommy Walker"
> <twalker@cableone.net>
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: RURUNY@aol.com
>
> Tommy,
>
> If you would like to see a good pic of this
> installation, go to
> CH701.com.
> Under builder links go to Larry Martins
> site....
>
> Brian,
>
> Thanks a lot. That's exactly what I was looking
> for. I can finish up my
> work on the tail and start on the right wing this
> weekend.
>
> Tommy Walker in Alabama
>
> Do Not Archive....
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 2
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 08:26:53 AM PST US
> From: "Chuck Deiterich" <cfd@thegateway.net>
> Subject: Zenith-List: Private Pilot Flying as a
> Sport Pilot
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Chuck Deiterich"
> <cfd@thegateway.net>
>
> Below are questions I asked the EAA and their
> answers, sounds good!
> Chuck D.
> N701TX
>
> Can a private pilot flying as a sport pilot:
> 1. Get a BFR in a four place (C172) airplane with a
> regular CFI?
> 2. Fly into Class B airspace without a log book
> endorsement?
> 3. Fly different airplanes (that meet the sport
> plane requirements) without
> a log book endorsement?
>
> Here are the answers to your questions:
>
> 1) Yes, you can take your flight review in any
> aircraft for which you are
> rated. However, if the aircraft does not fit the
> definition of a
> light-sport aircraft, the CFI who is administering
> the flight review would
> have to act as PIC for the flight.
>
> 2) Yes, as a private pilot you already have the
> necessary training for
> operating in Class B, C, and D airspace, so you do
> not need further training
> or endorsement.
>
> 3) Yes, a private pilot operating at the sport
> pilot level is not required
> to have further endorsements in order to fly
> aircraft for which you are
> rated.
>
> Hope this helps!
>
> EAA Aviation Services
> EAA Aviation Center, Oshkosh, WI
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 3
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 09:24:45 AM PST US
> From: "Cdngoose" <601xl@sympatico.ca>
> <zenithkitaircraft@yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: Zenith-List: New Builders Warning
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Cdngoose"
> <601xl@sympatico.ca>
>
>
> Too all you new builders that have just started or
> are thinking of
> starting let me tell you about a couple of safety
> issues that few other
> builders are willing to share. Make sure bandages
> are well stocked in
> your shop area! You will at some time drill through
> aluminum and into
> the flesh of your finger. Though most may not be
> noticeable and can
> arrange from surface abrasion to an all out gusher
> all abrasions are
> patently obvious as soon as the acetone is used to
> clean said aluminum!!
> Secondly, When it is time to chromate the
> aforementioned aluminum always
> use a respirator! But even after a thorough
> inspection before donning in
>
=== message truncated ===
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: A better air riveter |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Aaron" <agustafson@chartermi.net>
This ones a few more bucks but it's the cadilac for light weight and
menuverability. And no kick back.
http://jcsonlinetoolshed.com/product.php/17407/115//81619a98386ad4898225e4733368cba9
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Aaron
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: 601HD instrument panel |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Rick" <rick.pitcher@verizon.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Miller" <drmiller@cvillepsychology.net>
Subject: Zenith-List: 601HD instrument panel
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Bob Miller"
> <drmiller@cvillepsychology.net>
>
> Does anybody know
>
> 1] how far forward of the plans location the instrument panel can be
> placed?
>
> 2] how many holes can safely be made in the panel?
>
> Thanks,
> Bob
Since the panel is an integral part of the structure, you might want to send
ZAC a sketch of your proposed changes and see what they say about it.
I moved the panel forward 2" on my HD. I sent a sketch to ZAC for their
approval first. On the sketch I noted that I had used 1/8 inch thick
aluminum angle for my longerons instead of the 3/32 inch angle called out on
the drawings. When Chris sent back the approved sketch, he had me add a
couple of gussets to the intersection of the panel and longerons. He also
circled the 1/8 inch dimension of the longerons and added a note "approved
with the thicker longerons only".
Rick
Message 16
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|
Subject: | The final stretch, but I have a question |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Trevor Page <webmaster@upac.ca>
I took advantage of the nice weather yesterday and today to finish my
canopy installation and I've encountered a bit of a problem.
I know the plans call for a flashing around the front of the canopy
tube and I've seen some of you opt to not install that since the canopy
fit is very good.
I wanted to do the same however the middle of the front canopy edge
with the rubber edging is about 1/4" off the front skin. So I guess I'm
going to have to make a flashing to give me a bit of a lip that's lower
for me to install the rubber trim.
I have a picture on my website so you can see what I'm talking about
(URL is long, you might have to fix it if the list truncates it):
http://pagefamily.homeunix.org/picture_album/view_photo.php?
set_albumName=album04&id=IMG_1191
So, is there another way for me to fill in this gap (the canopy has
been drilled so I can't lower it) or should I make a flashing? What is
the best method to make a custom one? Paper template?
Also, I'm thinking about paint soon and with Larry MacFarland does
anyone know the amount of paint required for a 601? I'm going to need
enough primer to do the whole plane and I'm going for a 2-tone finish
similar to the Zac demo planes but white and black instead of white and
red.
Can I paint in the winter or am I best to wait until its warmer (my
garage is heated)?
Thanks!
Trevor Page
601HD 99% complete
Message 17
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Subject: | Re: Zenith-List Digest: 14 Msgs - 02/05/05 |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Larry McFarland" <larrymc@qconline.com>
John,
A higher speed in this case is definitely better, but also the type of drill
is important. I used a dozen #30 bullet tip drills to scratch build my 601
beginning to end and never sharpened a drill. When they get dull, pitch
them and start with a new one. The bullet tip drills allow you to be more
accurate and the drill won't walk off the material like a common drill or
especially a dull or resharpened one.
Larry McFarland - 601HDS - www.macsmachine.com
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: john butterfield
> <jdbutterfield@yahoo.com>
>
> hi list
> I am starting on my tail section (601XL) and have been
> drilling holes and wonder if I am using the right
> speed hand drill. I think mine has about 1,600 rpm's
> and i remember someone saying a higher speed is much
> better. I also am curious as to how long a drill bit
> lasts before replacement or sharpening is required.
> john butterfield XL
Message 18
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Subject: | Re: The final stretch, but I have a question |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: JAPhillipsGA@aol.com
Message 19
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Subject: | Re: The final stretch, but I have a question |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: JAPhillipsGA@aol.com
Trever, Depending on what type of paint you decide to use you could use a
lot. I painted my XL in white and red similar to ZAC's color scheme. I used PPG
single stage paint. I used epoxy primer. With the red paint you really need
to paint the whole plane white first, then red over the white. With black I
don't really know if that would be necessary, I probably would not bother. As
you know you mix paint with hardener, glosser and reducer. Same with primer
minus the glosser. I used about 3/4 gallon of primer, a little over two gallons
of white; and a half gallon of red. All this not including the additions.
Spilled some and wasted some more, but that is a ball park figure. Two coats
primer, white and red each. After the final coat set up I wet sanded with 2000
grit, and double buffed to fine luster. Took a while. About painting in winter.
Can be done, but the vented air should be at least 60 degrees or you will
never get it to flow smooth. That is not just 60 degrees in the booth, but of
the
clean filtered air coming in. 70-75 degrees is better with low humidity Hope
this helps some, best regards, Bill of Georgia
Message 20
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--> Zenith-List message posted by: Joemotis@aol.com
Hi Matt
I solved the uneven floor problem wit 6 pony wood working clamps screwed
into plumbing flanges, each clamp on each leg. I can lower it off the clamps
onto the wheels, roll it around for whatever and spin the clamps back down and
have perfectly level in about 2 minutes. If you decide to go this rout, make
sure to use the 1/2" ones, the pin slides in the drive handle 3/4" clamps the
handle is cast and does not clear. Send you a pic if I can find it
Joe Motis
601XL
do not archive
Message 21
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Subject: | Re: I owe 2 people Pics of my Facet fuel pumps between the |
nose ribs on a 601XL
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Joemotis@aol.com
Help, I forgot whom to send them to!?!
Joe Motis
601XL
do not archive
Message 22
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Subject: | Re: I owe 2 people Pics of my Facet fuel pumps betwee |
n the nose ribs on a 601XL
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Mike" <wizard-24@juno.com>
Hi Joe,
I'm probably not one of those you promised those pics to, but I'd sure like to
see how you were able to squeeze those pumps in that area. Thanks,
Mike Fortunato
wizard-24@juno.com
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