RV6-Archive.digest.vol-ad
September 28, 2003 - October 31, 2005
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Henry Hore ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Henry Hore <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Subject: Rivet-gun double off-set holder for one hand operation.
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com.09.28.2003/index.html
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6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry2DT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Fuel caps adjust |
Fred...
These caps are easily adjustable. There are two o-rings that can wear out,
but they're cheap. To adjust, loosen the locknut, then rotate the lower threaded
disc to loosen or tighten down the large O-ring. Proper adjustment is
achieved when the cap is locked down and cannot be rotated by hand. I use a quarter
stuck in the slot on top, and adjust until I cannot rotate. This seems to
work....Don't forget to tighten the locknut after this process...
Jerry Cochran
>
> Henry,
>
> Nice find.. My new caps aren't fitting tight enough either. Now I know I
> need to take them apart and inspect them. It might not be a bad idea to add
> this type of inspection to the conditional inspection list...
>
> Fred Stucklen
> RV-6A N926RV 55 Hrs...
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Daus" <dauscj(at)nb.net> |
Hello, I'm in the process of attaching the wings to the fuselage and need some
assistance squaring up the wings. I followed the manner described in the manual
using corresponding points on the fuselage measuring to common points on the
wing tips and also measurements from the wing tips to the vertical stabilizer
and seem to have some inconsistencies between the two of about a half inch.
Could someone please offer their opinions as to the best way to square the wings
to the fuselage/vert. stab.
Thanks,
Chuck Daus - Wings attach
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing attachment |
| From: | Chris.Kleen(at)faa.gov |
10/01/2003 09:38:02 AM
Hi Chuck,
I had more than my fair share trying (and crying) to get the wings
attached properly. There are several points of concern here that need to
be addressed, but the most important is the hole clearance to the rear
spar, that 5/8" DO NOT OVERLOOKED! Please note the emphasis. Let me know
if you have a 6 or 6A and we will work from there.
Chris W. Kleen
AWP 540.1
310 725-6541
Fax 6563
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Daus" <dauscj(at)nb.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing attachment |
Chris,
Thanks for the reply, I am building a 6A The one thing I know that is
throwing one more factor into thought is I have the empange already
installed. Right now I have the wings in line (dropping strings from the
wing leading edge) and each side measures the same distance to the vert.
stabilizer. However, when I measure to the points on the side of the
fuselage they are off 3/4" to 1"from side to side. I also want to state that
I am a machinist and engineer by trade and I realize that I can't make every
point I measure be equal on each side. So, I ask myself what does really
matter. I think no matter what the leading edge of the wings should be in
line. Then what comes next or am I not even close??? I thank you for any
information you can give to help me make the right points equal on each
side.
Chuck Daus
----- Original Message -----
From: <Chris.Kleen(at)faa.gov>
Subject: Re: RV6-List: Wing attachment
>
>
> Hi Chuck,
>
> I had more than my fair share trying (and crying) to get the wings
> attached properly. There are several points of concern here that need to
> be addressed, but the most important is the hole clearance to the rear
> spar, that 5/8" DO NOT OVERLOOKED! Please note the emphasis. Let me know
> if you have a 6 or 6A and we will work from there.
>
>
> Chris W. Kleen
> AWP 540.1
> 310 725-6541
> Fax 6563
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing attachment |
Hi Chuck:
I have a friend that is an ex-USair captain. He told me about a 737 that was
in for maintenance and upon doing routine work on the airplane, it was
discovered that one wing was mounted 1 foot....yes 1 foot ahead of the
other! In all the hundreds of hours the airplane was flown, no flight crew
ever reported any problems with how the airplane flew.
Don't get me wrong.....I am not saying that you can be sloppy with mounting
the wings, but from the above it is apparent that there is a certain
tolerance we can be within and still have a safe, stable airplane.
FWIW
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
finish kit...slider frame actually slides!
Peshtigo, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chuck Daus" <dauscj(at)nb.net>
Subject: Re: RV6-List: Wing attachment
>
> Chris,
>
> Thanks for the reply, I am building a 6A The one thing I know that is
> throwing one more factor into thought is I have the empange already
> installed. Right now I have the wings in line (dropping strings from the
> wing leading edge) and each side measures the same distance to the vert.
> stabilizer. However, when I measure to the points on the side of the
> fuselage they are off 3/4" to 1"from side to side. I also want to state
that
> I am a machinist and engineer by trade and I realize that I can't make
every
> point I measure be equal on each side. So, I ask myself what does really
> matter. I think no matter what the leading edge of the wings should be in
> line. Then what comes next or am I not even close??? I thank you for any
> information you can give to help me make the right points equal on each
> side.
>
> Chuck Daus
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Chris.Kleen(at)faa.gov>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV6-List: Wing attachment
>
>
> >
> >
> > Hi Chuck,
> >
> > I had more than my fair share trying (and crying) to get the wings
> > attached properly. There are several points of concern here that need
to
> > be addressed, but the most important is the hole clearance to the rear
> > spar, that 5/8" DO NOT OVERLOOKED! Please note the emphasis. Let me
know
> > if you have a 6 or 6A and we will work from there.
> >
> >
> > Chris W. Kleen
> > AWP 540.1
> > 310 725-6541
> > Fax 6563
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <avdub(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing attachment |
Chuck, I was in same fix with wing tips measuring up to 3/4 inch off one
side to other from horizontal stabilizer tips. I was advised by Van's tech
that the major concern is to get the wing leading edge correct using the
method in manual. I did just that and the RV6A flies perfectly. For what
it's worth I'd say focus on the wing and don't sweat the minor dimensional
differences in the empennage.
Dick
-----Original Message-----
From: Chuck Daus <dauscj(at)nb.net>
Date: Wednesday, October 01, 2003 12:05 PM
Subject: RV6-List: Wing attachment
>
>Hello, I'm in the process of attaching the wings to the fuselage and need
some assistance squaring up the wings. I followed the manner described in
the manual using corresponding points on the fuselage measuring to common
points on the wing tips and also measurements from the wing tips to the
vertical stabilizer and seem to have some inconsistencies between the two of
about a half inch. Could someone please offer their opinions as to the best
way to square the wings to the fuselage/vert. stab.
>
>Thanks,
>Chuck Daus - Wings attach
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing attachment |
| From: | Genev E Reed <genevreed(at)juno.com> |
Chuck: It sounds to me like you have the wing leading edges in a straight
line but you have one leading the other. pull them back until they are
equal distance to the rear coners then check again.
Doyle Reed 7A 101 Hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Jerry Calvert ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Jerry Calvert
Subject: Oil Door
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/rv6@cox.net.10.04.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
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2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Comeaux" <mcomeaux(at)bendnet.com> |
| Subject: | EGT & CHT Probes |
Was wondering if anyone could help me out.
I know 20/20 is hindsight but already have the westtech
guages. This is what I have :
New 0-360 from vans what port do you use for the CHT Sensor / Probe?
High Country exhaust---Where is a good location for the bayonet type
sensor with clamp for exhaust?
Thanks in Advance....Mike Comeaux
mcomeaux(at)bendnet.com
Was wondering if anyone could help me
out.
I know 20/20 is hindsight but already
have the
westtech
guages. This is what I have
:
New 0-360 from vans what port do you
use for the
CHT Sensor / Probe?
High Country exhaust---Where is a good
location for
the bayonet type sensor with clamp for exhaust?
Thanks in Advance....Mike
Comeaux
mcomeaux(at)bendnet.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "son hoang" <son(at)hoangs.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EGT & CHT Probes |
i use #3 for CHT and #4 for EGT
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Comeaux" <mcomeaux(at)bendnet.com>
Subject: RV6-List: EGT & CHT Probes
>
>
> Was wondering if anyone could help me out.
> I know 20/20 is hindsight but already have the westtech
> guages. This is what I have :
> New 0-360 from vans what port do you use for the CHT Sensor / Probe?
>
> High Country exhaust---Where is a good location for the bayonet type
> sensor with clamp for exhaust?
>
> Thanks in Advance....Mike Comeaux
> mcomeaux(at)bendnet.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Was wondering if anyone could help me
> out.
> I know 20/20 is hindsight but already
> have the
> westtech
> guages. This is what I have
> :
> New 0-360 from vans what port do you
> use for the
> CHT Sensor / Probe?
>
> High Country exhaust---Where is a good
> location for
> the bayonet type sensor with clamp for exhaust?
>
> Thanks in Advance....Mike
> Comeaux
> href"mailto:mcomeaux(at)bendnet.com">mcomeaux(at)bendnet.com >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | MIL-T-43435B Lacing Cord at a 25% Cost Savings |
rv8-list(at)matronics.com, rv9-list(at)matronics.com
I have access to "Brand New" (in original packaging)
MIL-T-43435B Lacing Cord, Type 2 (Polyester / Hi
Temp), Finish C (Synthetic Rubber or Elastomer, NOT
Waxed), Size 3 (50 lb min strength; 0.085" wide x
0.014" thick). This Cord is used extensively by
avionic shops and airframe manufacturers to tie
individual electrical wires into bundles for their
avionics, etc.
* Least expensive way to make wire bundles.
* Will not cut into wires like Dental Floss used
by some Builders, as it is "flat".
* Higher Temp rating (-73 Deg C to 177 Deg C)
than Type 1 (-55 Deg C to 121 Deg C) that is
sold by Aircraft Spruce and Chief Aircraft for
$21 per Spool.
* Each Spool contains 500 yards of White or Blue
Polyester Cord. (Share with other Builders.)
* Excellent "Knot" retention.
* See: www.versatileindustrial.com/gudebrod.html
for additional info / pictures.
* Will sell for $15 per Spool - includes
shipping in the US.
If interested E-Mail me off line at -
gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com
Video Attachment
Garey Wittich has sent you a video.
Please go to
http://mediaframe.yahoo.com/mf/spotlife/o?.auth=J1X2HgMJ9RN8GSoUSNHJhA--&id= document.Compose.To.focus();
document.Compose.ATT.value =
to view the video.
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
Does anyone know how much 'wallow' in the prop bolt holes is tolerable?
Geoff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <jwbrunk(at)attglobal.net> |
I already looked in the archives and read all there is on drills and rivet guns.
Some of it is a little dated, so I was curious
about some particular items.
Drills: Is there a minimum RPM you would look for?
Is having the drill reversable something you would look for?
Are the higer end drills (Sioux, etc) that much quieter and better running?
As for rivet guns: To build a quick build kit, can I get by on the 2X for most
of my needs? The archives vary in opinion on this as I'm sure some of you will.
I don't want to spend a fortune on tools, BUT I would rather buy a better tool
once, then buy several over the years.
Looking for advice,
Thanks in advance,
John Brunke
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Phillips <ripsteel(at)edge.net> |
FWIW, I gave up entirely on the air-powered drills about halfway through
my first wing, realizing how much I was spending on compressed air
(noise, wear on the machine and power) Went to rechargeable drill with
two batteries & never looked back... After very close examination, I've
never seen ANY less quality of them thar holes! As far as the rivet
gun, a 2X will accomplish most any task short of boilerplate, but the
neatest trick is a 1X I borrowed from a fellow builder with a back-rivet
set- you will be astonished at how nice them skins look using this
thing- It even earned a name: from the first time I ran a row of rivets
with it, it became known as "Cats A$$"!! (Thanks, "person-who-loaneth
tools"!)
Happy pokin' & poundin'!!
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark
jwbrunk(at)attglobal.net wrote:
>
> I already looked in the archives and read all there is on drills and rivet guns.
Some of it is a little dated, so I was curious
> about some particular items.
>
> Drills: Is there a minimum RPM you would look for?
> Is having the drill reversable something you would look for?
> Are the higer end drills (Sioux, etc) that much quieter and better running?
>
> As for rivet guns: To build a quick build kit, can I get by on the 2X for most
of my needs? The archives vary in opinion on this as I'm sure some of you
will.
>
> I don't want to spend a fortune on tools, BUT I would rather buy a better tool
once, then buy several over the years.
>
> Looking for advice,
> Thanks in advance,
> John Brunke
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry2DT(at)aol.com |
Geoff...
If "wallow" is the same as "clearance", I'm no expert, but I would like mine
to be zero.... In other words, a tight press fit. I'm sure someone will chime
in on this that knows what they're saying. It'll be interesting if they allow
any "wallow" at all.
Jerry Cochran
flying RV6a N254HL
Building RV6a N180XP
In a message dated 10/16/2003 12:02:22 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
rv6-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
> Does anyone know how much 'wallow' in the prop bolt holes is tolerable?
> Geoff
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Psiropoulos" <deanpsir(at)easystreet.com> |
John:
I have just finished doing 99% of the metal work on my RV-6A (all aluminum
structures together and working on canopy install). I bought an Avery tool
kit about 6 years ago when I started this thing and it was ONLY $1100.0 back
then (now its about $1600). I used the included air drill somewhat but it
uses a lot of air to run and I have one of those noisy oiless compressors so
I got tired of listening to it, especially when drilling stuff like the 200
holes in the 1/8 inch thick longerons on the fuselage. For the most part
I've used a 12 volt Dewalt battery drill that I got from Home Depot for
$129.00 (it comes with two batteries and they charge fast enough for you
never to run out of juice). I'm not all that excited about air drills but
if ya got one go ahead and use it. If you have a good electric drill or
battery drill they work just fine too.
I've used a 2x rivet gun for almost everything. I turn the pressure way
down (to around 40 PSI) when riveting skins and always use a swivel head
rivet set on the gun (I've had good luck with this approach although I've
found that one has to have the part held solidly and, when using the gun,
brace yourself in a fashion that will keep the gun from slipping and hold it
solidly against the work). A friend wanted to back rivet his wing skins so
he made a large bucking bar (by putting handle on a large hunk of iron) and
borrowed my offset back rivet tool. But we found that it was harder to get
a nice shop head because the back rivet set is at an angle to the rivet.
There are a few times when I have needed and used a 3X gun. This was in
areas where I had to set rivets holding together 3/8 to 1/4 inch of metal
(this is in areas where the fuselage longerons meet up with the steel
weldments of the motor mounts and in the front area of the fuselage where
there is lots of thick metal). The problem comes in when you don't get the
rivet sufficiently driven on the first or second try, then it work hardens
so much that a smaller gun doesn't have enough oomph (the surrounding thick
metal absorbs too much of the guns energy instead of passing to the rivet).
So you should get along just fine with a 2x gun, I run mine at 60 pounds for
1/8 inch rivets and 40 for skin rivets (for the thick metal I'll run it up
to maximum and try to drive the rivet in one pass).
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A 24907
Finsh kit, canopy oh boy
PS: I just noticed you said quick build, there should be no need for
anything larger than the 2x for anything you do on a quick build. Happy
building, when you get your QB kit you'll already be where it took me 5
years to get to by assembling the small parts.
From: <jwbrunk(at)attglobal.net>
Subject: RV6-List: Rivet guns
I already looked in the archives and read all there is on drills and rivet
guns. Some of it is a little dated, so I was curious about some particular
items.
Drills: Is there a minimum RPM you would look for?
Is having the drill reversable something you would look for? Are the higer
end drills (Sioux, etc) that much quieter and better running?
As for rivet guns: To build a quick build kit, can I get by on the 2X for
most of my needs? The archives vary in opinion on this as I'm sure some of
you will.
I don't want to spend a fortune on tools, BUT I would rather buy a better
tool once, then buy several over the years.
Looking for advice,
Thanks in advance,
John Brunke
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <jwbrunk(at)attglobal.net> |
Dear RV-listers,
Thanks so much for the tool advice. You solved a lot of research on my part.
John Brunke
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Balone Marine <balone_99(at)yahoo.com> |
I use a 3x, but i have been at it for 55 yrs. I would
say a 2x is adequite.and yes you will get many
opinions , Its basicly what you are familier with on
the Quik Built the 2x is fine.
bud balone
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | 1/4" - 28 Threaded Shank Drill Bits / Scotch-Brite Wheels - |
40% SAVINGS
rv8-list(at)matronics.com, rv9-list(at)matronics.com
FOR YOUR BUILDING NEEDS:
1) 1/4"-28 THREADED SHANK DRILL BITS, Size #40
NEW
* Used with Angle Air Drills and Flexible
Drill Attachments, etc.
* NEW from Northrup / Grumman Aircraft Co.
* 2 1/8" Long, 135 Degree Split Point, High
Speed Steel
* YOUR PRICE $1.50 each (Avery Part #4140,
$2.70 each)
2) NAS907 Type B Drill Bits, Size #30 NEW
* High Speed, Nitride Oxide coated for
enhanced abrasion resistance
* Recommended for Stainless Steel, hard
Steel, Titanium, etc.
* NEW from Northrup / Grumman Aircraft Co.
* 135 degree Split Point
* 2 3/4" long
* YOUR PRICE $1.00 each
3) DEBURRING WHEEL (aka Scotch Brite Wheel)
* NEW from Northrup / Grumman Aircraft Co.
* Used to Radius, Deburr & Smooth edges on
Aluminum parts using a Die Grinder, etc.
* 7A Medium Grit, Aluminum Oxide
(The "ONE" recommended by Van's Aircraft)
* 1" dia x 1" high with 3/16" hole for
Mandrel (Mandrel not supplied)
* YOUR PRICE $3.25 each (Avery Part #3700,
$5.00 each)
Minimum Order $10.00 POSTAGE INCLUDED
Indicate interest OFF LINE by E-Mail. Supplies
Limited
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | All New Matronics Email List Online Chat!!! |
Hi Listers!
A number of Listers have been asking for some Matronics Email List online
chat and NOW ITS HERE! Over the last couple of days I've set up a nifty
web-based Chat site here on the Matronics systems. No special programs to
download; all you need is a late model web browser like Internet Explorer
or Netscape with a java plugin. I would recommend downloading the latest
Java plugin if you experience any problems getting the page to come
up. Here's a link to the Sun Java download
website. http://java.com/en/index.jsp Look for the green box with the
yellow arrow in the upper right corner. Before you bother, though, just
try you browser because it'll probably just work.
Each Email List on Matronics has its own "Room" and all rooms can easily be
accessed from the same client. In the Email List URL Trailer at the bottom
of each List message, you'll find the Link to this List's specific Chat
Room. Just click on the Link, and then type in your name or email address
in the User Name box. Try to use a name or email address that the other
Listers know you by. You'll find me lurking around the various List chat
rooms as "MattDralle".
There's a couple of nifty features I'll explain right off. On the main
Chat Window page after you login, you'll see a little icon with a Hammer
and a Screwdriver. This is the Control Panel window. Once the Control
Panel comes up, click on the "Settings" tab. Here you'll find, among other
things, three check boxes to enable sound. Click all three and you'll be
treated to a sound whenever someone enters or leaves the Room, or when
someone sends a message.
The other cool button is the one that has four little arrows pointing to
each of the four corners of the button. This will rip the main Chat window
from the web page and allow you to resize and move it anyway you'd like.
Let's have some fun and get to know one another better using this awesome
new Chat Room! To get started, just click the URL Link below for this
List's specific Chat Room!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin
PS - I'm working on a web link interface to the chat logfiles. Coming soon...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | 2003 List Fund Raiser - Please Support Your Lists... |
Dear Listers,
During November of each year, I have a voluntary Email List Fund Raiser to
support the continued operation, development, maintenance and upgrade of
the Email Forums sponsored here. Your Contributions go directly into
improvements in the systems that support the Lists and to pay for the
Internet connectivity primarily dedicated to supporting the Lists.
The traffic on the Lists continues to grow and the numbers are nothing
short of impressive! Here are some statistics that show how much traffic
the Lists generated this year alone:
* 11/01/2002 - 10/31/2003
o Web server hits: 10,446,780 (870,565/mo)
o Incoming Email Posts: 58,918 (4,909/mo)
List-related upgrades this year have been plentiful, and List performance
has substantially improved as a result. Upgrades and enhancements this
year have included:
* Internet Connection upgrade to a full, commercial-grade T1 Line!
* New Web Server platform - Dual 3Ghz Xeon with 2Gb Ram and U320 SCSI!
* Upgrade of Email Server platform - Dual 1.7 Ghz Xeon with 1Gb Ram!
* All new SPAM Filtering Appliance - filters about 98% of the unwanted SPAM!
* All new, web-base List Chat Room society!
As you can well imagine, this year's upgrades translate into a fair amount
of cash outlay on my part and this annual List Fund Raiser is the sole
means by which I fund these upgrades. Unlike most of the other "list
servers" on the Web these days, I have a strict
*no-commercial-advertisement policy* on the Matronics Lists and associated
List web sites. I was again approached by a number of vendors recently
with advertising deals that have been very tempting. My commitment to
providing a grass-roots, non-commercial environment prevailed,
however! Commercialism on the Internet seems to be increasing
exponentially every year, with more and more SPAM and pop up ads, not to
mention the ever increasing Virus attacks.
My goal with the Matronics List Service is to provide all members
with a commercial-free, virus-free, and high-performance system
with which the may share information, ideas, and camaraderie.
The best news this year is that, with the gracious help of Andy Gold and
The Builder's Bookstore ( http://www.buildersbooks.com ), I have been able
to significantly expand the lineup of fantastic Gift offers to support the
List Fund Raiser! In all, there are eight awesome free gifts this year
ranging from List Archive CD's to Flight Computers with qualifying
Contribution levels. Those great Jeppesen Flight Bags that were so popular
last year are even back! A special thanks goes out to Andy Gold again this
year for his very kind and generous support of the Lists. Thanks Andy, for
these great incentives!!
Over the next month I'll be posting a few reminder messages about the List
Fund Raiser, and I ask for your patience and understanding during the
process. Remember that the Lists are *completely* funded through the
generous Contributions of its members. That's it! There's no support from
a bloated advertising budget or deep pockets somewhere. Its all made
possible through YOUR thoughtful and generous support!
To make your List Contribution using a Visa or MasterCard, PalPal, or with
a personal check, please go to the URL link below. Here you can find
additional details on this year's great free Gifts as well as information
on the various methods of payment. Contributions in the $20, $30, $50,
$75, and $100 range are common. The Contribution web page is kind of long
this year with the details of each of the gifts, so please scroll all the
way down!
SSL Secure Contribution Web Site:
http://www.matronics.com/contributions
I would like to thank everyone who supports the Lists this year! Your
Contributions truly make it all possible!!
Thank you!!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
rv7-list(at)matronics.com, rv8-list(at)matronics.com, rv9-list(at)matronics.com,
rv10-list(at)matronics.com, rvcanada-list(at)matronics.com,
rveurope-list(at)matronics.com
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | RVx-List vs. RV-List Subscriptions |
Dear RV-x Listers,
I was chatting with a nice fellow on the new Matronics RV6-List Chatroom
yesterday ( http://www.matronics.com/chat ), and he ask me an interesting
question. Basically, what he was saying was that he had been subscribed to
the RV-List back a few years ago and he used to get a lot of messages each
day. Recently, he resubscribed and now only gets a few messages. "What
Happened?", he wanted to know...
Long story short, originally he had subscribed to the non-model specific
List, the "RV-List(at)matronics.com". When he resubscribed, he just
subscribed to the model-specific List, the "RV6-List(at)matronics.com". Since
the model-specific Lists receive far less traffic than the main RV-List,
the mystery of his reduced content was solved. He's now subscribed to the
Main RV-List in addition to the RV6-List and is happily receiving a few
more messages each day.
I realize that many of you have made a conscious decision to only subscribe
to one or more of the model-specific Lists. This conversation did make me
wonder, though, just how many people have subscribed to the model-specific
Lists, not knowing that a lot of the RV dialog is really on the main
RV-List...?
Anyway, I thought I'd post a little message today and spread the word. I
did some number crunching on the RVx-Lists vs. RV-List subscriptions and
found that there are 819 unique people subscribed to one or more
model-specific RVx-Lists but that are NOT subscribed to the general
RV-List! That's a lot of people missing out on a main flow of RV information.
I've setup a little web page where you can check to see if you're currently
subscribed to the RV-List and easily subscribe if you're not!
http://www.matronics.com/rv-list/Am-I-Subscribed.html
The RV-List is where all the action is! Subscribe today! :-)
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Barry Bruns ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Barry Bruns
Subject: Wing jig
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/BBruns6831@aol.com.11.03.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | List Fund Raiser - Wow, Have You Seen The Free Gifts? |
Dear Listers,
The List Fund Raiser is going well so far this year and I wanted to say
"Thank You" to everyone that has made a Contribution already this year!
Though the generous support of Andy Gold and the Builders Bookstore (
http://www.buildersbooks.com ), I'm able to offer some truly awesome gifts
with qualifying Contributions this year. There's quite a line up and a
rather diverse set of options - certainly something for every taste and
personality. Here's a list of this year's fine options:
* List Archive CD
* Aircraft Builder's Log
* Pilot Flashlight System
* Pro Pilot Logbook
* FAR/AIM on CD
* Jeppesen Flight Bag
* Aviation History Book
* Techstar Flight Computer
Please support your Email List Community AND pick up a really slick Gift at
the same time! The SSL Secure Contribution web site can be found at the
following URL:
http://www.matronics.com/contributions
Once again, I would like to thank everyone that has so generously supported
the continued operation and upgrade of the Lists Services here on the
Matronics servers!!
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CharlesRV6(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Stainless Steel Tape |
You are much better off putting teflon tape UNDER the the trailing edge of
the wing rather than on the top of the flaps. Works like a charm. Not a
scratch.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Del Schneider" <del(at)deltech.ca> |
| Subject: | Stainless Steel Tape |
I believe the tape is polyurethane and is available from Van's as a part
number. The poly tape is clear and goes on over the paint. Looks good on
mine and does not show the scuffing.
C-GZVD
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv6-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv6-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
CharlesRV6(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV6-List: Stainless Steel Tape
You are much better off putting teflon tape UNDER the the trailing edge of
the wing rather than on the top of the flaps. Works like a charm. Not a
scratch.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | A GUIDE TO AIRCRAFT PAINTING & CORROSION CONTROL |
rv8-list(at)matronics.com,
"rv9-list(at)matronics.com
(1.9 points)
SAVE YOURSELF hundreds of hours of research time and
building time, by ordering the comprehensive
"Guide to Painting & Corrosion Control of Aluminum and
Composite Aircraft"
This book took over 600+ hours of research time, by a
fussy Builder. Contains 64 pages of the latest,
practical information - summarized and gathered from
MIL Standards, Paint Shops, Builders like you (what
worked or didn't), Airframe Mfgs, etc. Covers
Products (characteristics & application of) from PP&G,
Dupont, Sherwin W'ms, Sterling, Poly Fiber, Deft,
Randolph Paints, PRC De Soto, US Paints, Aircraft
Finishing Systems, Tempo, 3M, etc.
Some of the Topics covered in the 30 Sections are:
* Aircraft Paints vs Auto Paints and Other
Considerations
* Corrosion Control
* Spray Guns - selecting, adjusting, using
and painting problems
* Brushes / Rollers used with Primers &
Paints
* Prep Methods for Painting - Fiberglass,
Steel and Aluminum
* Epoxy Primers for Aluminum - MIL &
Commercial, Solvent & Water Reducible
* Primers for Fiberglass & Steel
* Wash Primers & Self Etching Primers
* Other Primers - Zinc Chromate,Zinc Oxide,
Enamel
* Paint Types: MIL & Non MIL Polyurethanes
Enamel Types
Acrylics - Lacquers & Enamels
* Acid Etch / Conversion Coatings (Alodine)
* Criteria for selecting a Paint Shop
* 3M Cleaning Pads, Liquid Cleaners and their
effectiveness
* Paint Booths and their Construction
* References - MIL Standards & Tech Orders
* Directory of Aircraft Paint Mfgs, Distrib-
utors, etc. E-Mail addresses, Phone
Numbers, Application Notes
YOUR AIRPLANE is judged by it's Paint Job and it is
costly too, so have the latest "Information" in order
to make good decisions. Contains plenty of "Do's" and
"Don'ts" that save Time, Money and Frustration. Order
today.
Send a check for $25 to (includes Postage within the
US) to:
Garey Wittich
58 Village Parkway
Santa Monica, CA. 90405
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | A GUIDE TO AIRCRAFT PAINTING & CORROSION CONTROL |
rv8-list(at)matronics.com, rv9-list(at)matronics.com
THIS IS NOT "SPAM", but from my research I did for my
RV-8A which I am building.
--------------- ------------- ------------
SAVE YOURSELF hundreds of hours of research time and
building time, by using the comprehensive
"Guide to Painting & Corrosion Control of Aluminum and
Composite Aircraft"
This book took over 600+ hours of research time by me,
a fussy RV-8A Builder. Contains 64 pages of the
latest, practical information - summarized and
gathered from MIL Standards, Paint Shops, Builders
like you (what worked or didn't), Airframe Mfgs, etc.
Covers products from PP&G, Dupont, Sherwin W'ms,
Sterling, Poly Fiber, Deft, Randolph Paints, PRC De
Soto, US Paints, Aircraft Finishing Systems, 3M, etc.
Some of the Topics covered in the 30 Sections are:
* Aircraft Paints vs Auto Paints and Other
Considerations
* Corrosion Control
* Spray Guns - selecting, adjusting, using
and painting problems
* Brushes / Rollers used with Primers &
Paints
* Prep Methods for Painting - Fiberglass,
Steel and Aluminum
* Epoxy Primers for Aluminum - MIL &
Commercial, Solvent & Water Reducible
* Primers for Fiberglass & Steel
* Wash Primers & Self Etching Primers
* Other Primers - Zinc Chromate,Zinc Oxide,
Enamel
* Paint Types: MIL & Non MIL Polyurethanes
Enamel Types
Acrylics - Lacquers & Enamels
* Acid Etch / Conversion Coatings (Alodine)
* Selecting a Paint Shop
* 3M Cleaning Pads, Liquid Cleaner
compatibility
* Paint Booths and their Construction
* References - MIL Standards & Tech Orders
* Directory of Aircraft Paint Mfgs, Distrib-
utors, etc. E-Mail addresses, phone
numbers, Application Notes
YOUR AIRPLANE is judged by it's Paint Job and it is
costly too, so have the latest "Information" in order
to make good decisions. Contains plenty of "Do's" and
"Don'ts" that save time, money and frustration.
Send a check for $25 to (includes Postage within the
US) to:
Garey Wittich RV-8A Builder
58 Village Parkway
Santa Monica, CA. 90405
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Dear Listers,
Below are some of the nice things people have been saying about the Lists
in that little message box on the Contribution form! Thank you to everyone
that has made a Contribution thus far and for all the great
feedback! Please know that I really appreciate the comments and support!!
If you haven't yet shown your support for these Lists, won't you take a
moment and make your Contribution today? The Matronics Lists are always
Commercial-Free, SPAM-Free, Virus-Free, and High-performance and its your
direct support through this yearly Fund Raiser that enables all of these
valuable services you've come to expect.
Thank you for your Contribution!!
SSL Secure Web Site - http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Matt Dralle
EMail List Administrator
================================================================
=================== What Listers Are Saying ====================
================================================================
You provide a service to us kit builders that cannot be measured.
-Clifford M.
...great service to the aviation community.
-Curt R.
Thanks for being there - your List has really been of help.
-Thomas R.
Your lists have been most helpful to my RV-9A project.
-Dean V.
...has been a great help to me.
-Jim N.
..."must-have" for RV builders and pilots.
-Douglas W.
I find something every day on the List that helps me in my project.
-Ron P.
...very valuable!
-Patrick L.
Don't know that I could have persevered and succeeded without the List.
-Curt R.
...service continues to be awesome and is one of the most helpful resources
for homebuilding that I have ever found.
-Jim H.
The information and hours of entertainment many of us derive from the Lists
is priceless.
-Chris R.
I learn a lot about my [aircraft] through the Lists...
- Lee P.
Great source of education and entertainment. Love it!!!
-Lar B.
Great List & very well organized.
-Peter D.
I couldn't build my [airplane] without this List.
-William G.
The List is an important part of my daily routine.
-Roger H.
...incredible resource.
-Ron P.
Excellent facility.
-David M.
...unmatched service to all builders and flyers.
-Ralph C.
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | [PLEASE READ] - Why Do I Have A Fund Raiser Each Year? |
Dear Listers,
I was thinking that perhaps I should explain why I have a Fund Raiser and
also take the opportunity to express why I think the List Services here
provide a far better experience than the commercial equivalents.
I use the List Fund Raiser each year to offset the costs involved with
running a high performance email list site such as this one. With the
annual support from the List members through the PBS-like Fund Raiser, I
have found I can run the entire site without having to inflect any of the
members with those annoying banner ads flashing up all the time trying to
sell Toner Cartridge Refills or other garbage nobody wants or needs. From
the comments I've received over the years regarding the Lists, the great
majority of the members really appreciate the non-commercialism of my List
systems and don't mind my 'go-team-go' banter once a year to encourage
members to support the Lists.
I believe that the Lists services that I provide here offer a great many
benefits over the commercial equivalents in a number of ways. The first
feature I believe to be particularly significant is that you *cannot*
receive a computer v*rus from any of my Lists directly. I've been on a few
other List servers and have been unfortunate enough to download infected
files people have innocently or not-so-innocently included with their
posts. This just can't happen with my Lists; each incoming message is
filtered and attachments stripped off prior to posting. I provide a Photo
and File Share feature that allows members to share files and bitmaps with
other members and everyone can be assured that these files will be
prescanned for any sort of v*rus before they are posted. Safe and
simple. Also, with this photo and file sharing technique, the Archives
don't get loaded up with a huge amounts of bitmap "data" that slows the
Archive Search times.
Another feature of this system is the extensive List Archives that are
available for download, browsing, and searching. The Archives go all the
way back to the very beginning of each List and with the super fast Search
Engine, the huge size of the Archives is a non-issue in quickly finding the
data you're looking for. Another feature of the Archives, in my opinion,
is that they have been primarily stripped of all the useless email header
data and all the other header garbage that seems to build up in a typical
email thread.
I have received an extremely positive response from Listers regarding the
List Browse feature and the consensus is that the format and ease of use is
outstanding. Members report that having the previous 7 days worth of
messages on line for easy browsing and sorting is hugely beneficial. And
again, as with the real time distribution of List email, the messages are
stripped of all the unnecessary email headers and potentially dangerous
v*ruses.
I've been running email Lists and services under the matronics.com domain
since about 1989 starting with RV-List and 30 guys who I knew and who where
also building RVs. It has grown into over 40 different aviation-related
Email Lists and an associated web site that receives over 10,000,000 hits
each year!! Additionally, the List email system forwards well over
90,000,000 (yes, that 90 MILLION) email messages to subscribers each
year! With all the dot.bombs these days, I think there's a lot of value in
supporting a service that has gone the long haul and is still providing and
improving a high quality service at a price that's nearly free.
I have to admit running these Lists is a labor of love and I hope it shows
in the quality of the experience that you receive when you get a List Email
Message, Search the Archives, or use the List Browser. The Lists will be
here for a long time to come. If you just want to lurk a while for free,
that's great and I encourage you to do so. If you use, appreciate, and
receive value from these Lists, then please support them during the Annual
List Fund Raiser!
-----------------------------------------------
The SSL Secure Web Site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
-----------------------------------------------
Thank you,
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Psiropoulos" <deanpsir(at)easystreet.com> |
Ok here's an off-the-wall one:
I'm ready to install my rudder pedals and want to install brake pedals and
master cylinders at the same time. So.I'm looking at the whole contraption
and realized that...if I drill holes in each brake pedal (where the master
cylinders bolt to) like it says in Van's plans..two of the brake pedals will
end up approximately parallel with the rudder tubes and two will end up
angled forward toward the firewall a bit. In other words, both pedals on
each side will not be positioned the same relative to the foot. So.I will
have to rotate the ball of one foot further forward to get equal braking on
both sides. Maybe this is not a big deal and you get used to it quickly
but, since I haven't drilled the brake pedals for the master cylinders yet,
I thought I'd ask. So.is there a special procedure I should use to figure
out where to drill these holes or should I go ahead and drill them at the
location shown on the plans. Thanks.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A Canopy time.oh boy.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
Hi Dean,
Here's the simple answer. Line the bottom of both rudder pedals weldments
up as if they were installed in the airplane, then line all the brake pedals
themselves up so they are aligned, then drill. This way you'll end up with
both/all pedals being equal.
One more thing, it's advantageous (at least in the TD's) to have the tops of
the brake pedals slightly forward instead of perfectly vertical, so if/when
you are doing the pedal dance you aren't accidentally pushing on the brakes!
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis
http://www.steinair.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv6-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv6-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dean
Psiropoulos
Subject: RV6-List: Brake cylinders
Ok here's an off-the-wall one:
I'm ready to install my rudder pedals and want to install brake pedals and
master cylinders at the same time. So.I'm looking at the whole contraption
and realized that...if I drill holes in each brake pedal (where the master
cylinders bolt to) like it says in Van's plans..two of the brake pedals will
end up approximately parallel with the rudder tubes and two will end up
angled forward toward the firewall a bit. In other words, both pedals on
each side will not be positioned the same relative to the foot. So.I will
have to rotate the ball of one foot further forward to get equal braking on
both sides. Maybe this is not a big deal and you get used to it quickly
but, since I haven't drilled the brake pedals for the master cylinders yet,
I thought I'd ask. So.is there a special procedure I should use to figure
out where to drill these holes or should I go ahead and drill them at the
location shown on the plans. Thanks.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A Canopy time.oh boy.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lyle Peterson" <lyleap(at)access4less.net> |
| Subject: | Rivets and rivet guns, etc. |
I am in the process of setting up to start on an RV6. It is a very slow
build kit. I would appreciate some advice on rivet tools.
What rivet gun seems to be the best all around as far as versatility and
longevity? Which seems to have the best trigger? Is a 1X enough? Is
3X too much?
What rivet sets are the most useful and which are useful in some limited
uses? Long sets, offset sets, C frame sets, swivel sets, cushioned
sets. Any other accessory that any of you found useful or would have
liked to have to make setting a particular rivet easier?
What size yokes are useful or needed in some locations on a pneumatic
rivet squeezer or on a hand rivet squeezer?
I apologize if you get several copies of this message. I am subscribed
to several RV lists.
Thank all of you for the information and encouragement.
Lyle Peterson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lyle Peterson" <lyleap(at)access4less.net> |
, ,
| Subject: | No subject as you will give it a new one shortly after you flame |
me
SUSPICIOUS_RECIPS
It is so disheartening to learn that aviators are so narrow minded and
selfish. If you people had used one tenth of the energy you expended on
blasting my question to providing useful information, you could have
written a book. As is it you only demonstrated that you 1. Don't know
the answers, 2. Think that your knowledge is so unique that it can't be
shared, 3. You have an immense amount of time to waste, 4. You have
absolutely no respect for other people, whether they be builders or not.
Someone suggested that the question was 'stupid.' The only stupid
question is one that you can't answer!
I checked the archives for the "gazillion" answers to be found there. I
found four and not all of them pertained directly to my question. None
of them covered all the questions I had posed.
A few responded off list. They probably did not want to be caught by
the lords of the list giving information to a new builder. I do thank
those few for the information they so generously shared. They are very
unlike the rest of the listers. Some two thousand people on these lists
and only a very few are willing to answer. Rather, several find the
time to waste flaming the questioner. The thread continues under the
guise of a 'Food Fight.' How charming!
So many messages use an existing subject because so few of you have
figured out how to start a new thread on the list. Shame, shame. Look
at the bottom of the message for the information you need. You don't
even have to ask a question of the list, and thus get flamed for a
stupid question.
I did envision one day flying it to Oshkosh. If I do, which is
doubtful, I will park it in the Vintage area. There are some folks
there that will talk decently to you about airplanes and lots of other
things.
If you get too many copies of this email, use the delete key.
Thanks for nothing,
Lyle Peterson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GRGSCHMIDT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | N250GS Flew first flight |
Dear elite members of this list,
I would like to proudly announce that I flew RV6S (very slow build version)
Sunday morning in perfect weather at the Phoenix, AZ Deer Valley airport. Some
particulars are as follows:
RV6S= Conventional gear (The S is for special or Schmidt whichever you prefer)
IFR equipped
Garmin GNC-250XL
King KNS-80
Terra Comm
Terra Xpdr
Dual encoders
RMI engine monitor (four cyl EGT/CHT)
RMI Micro encoder
PS Engineering PMA 6000 stereo audio control panel
Collins HSI
Precise Flight speed brakes
Electric aileron and elevator trim
Aviat inverted oil system
Aviat fuel selctor/hand pump
Lycoming IO-360 B1B 180 HP engine
Custom four into one exhaust
Whelen strobes and Red Rotating beacon.
Five point quick release harness system
Leather interior
Upper rear baggage compartment with locking door.
Slider Canopy
Too Many other extras to mention here.
She flew flawlessly and was in trim.
Greg Schmidt
N250GS RV6S
Phoenix DVT
Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Krieg <rv6a(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N250GS Flew first flight |
Congrats from down in Chandler!
Question for you. How did your weight and balance work out? I asked
Van's about installing an engine similar in weight to the IO-360 and
they told me that the IO-360 was too heavy of an engine for the -6 and
that it wasn't designed for that weight. Any problems with W&B on your
-6?
Chris
On Nov 18, 2003, at 6:19 AM, GRGSCHMIDT(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Dear elite members of this list,
>
> I would like to proudly announce that I flew RV6S (very slow build
> version)
> Sunday morning in perfect weather at the Phoenix, AZ Deer Valley
> airport. Some
> particulars are as follows:
> RV6S= Conventional gear (The S is for special or Schmidt whichever you
> prefer)
> IFR equipped
> Garmin GNC-250XL
> King KNS-80
> Terra Comm
> Terra Xpdr
> Dual encoders
> RMI engine monitor (four cyl EGT/CHT)
> RMI Micro encoder
> PS Engineering PMA 6000 stereo audio control panel
> Collins HSI
> Precise Flight speed brakes
> Electric aileron and elevator trim
> Aviat inverted oil system
> Aviat fuel selctor/hand pump
> Lycoming IO-360 B1B 180 HP engine
> Custom four into one exhaust
> Whelen strobes and Red Rotating beacon.
> Five point quick release harness system
> Leather interior
> Upper rear baggage compartment with locking door.
> Slider Canopy
>
> Too Many other extras to mention here.
> She flew flawlessly and was in trim.
>
>
> Greg Schmidt
> N250GS RV6S
> Phoenix DVT
> Flying
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Heiglesias(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Re: N250GS Flew first flight |
Chris:
I recently completed a RV6 in Houston with a O-360 A1A and a Sensenich metal
fixed prop and the W & B came out just fine.
I was told that RV6's generally had a tendency to be tail heavy so a little
extra weight in the nose did not hurt.
That was my case. My empty weight was 1039 lbs and even with low fuel and two
people, I can still carry 60 lbs of baggage in the back.
I don't think I am an exception.
Regards,
Eduardo Iglesias
N23EJ - RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Imfairings(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: N250GS Flew first flight |
Congratulations Greg on your first flight. I bet you have a smile that's a
mile wide.
I'm located close to the Glendale Airport...hope to see you and your RV
someday.
Bob
Fairings-Etc
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doyal R Plute <dplute(at)sbcglobal.net> |
I have just finished installing my wing tip lights from RDS lighting. A very good
set of lights, however pricey!
What procedure has been used to aim the lights to get the light pattern needed
for landing and runway lighting? I propose to use one light pointed for landing
and the other for runway lighting, ( good idea or not?) Is there a simple
way of calibrating lights while on the ground, like auto headlamps where you shine
lights at a wall and measure up so far for correct lighting?
I have also connected an alternating flasher system for increased recognition.
Any help will be appreciated, as I know anyone with lights has to have done this
Doyal R. Plute
N246DP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Heiglesias(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Lights. |
Doyal:
I completed my RV6 in June 03
I had the same question as you do now. From my prior night flight experience
plus the advise of a close friend that has many ours as a pro in night flying
this is what I did.
You need the lights to point down some what into the runway. Not far ahead,
this is useless. In order to have a feeling for third dimensional depth
perception you need to see the ground close by. If not take a look at how the landing
lights are aimed in a 737.
What I did is to aim the lights so they are almost parallel to the ground
when the aircraft is in a 3 point position. I actually aimed the lights slightly
down in this position. If you can imagine (put a string) on the chord line of
the wing tip, the light should have an angle of at least 15 deg down respect
to the chord line of the wing.
I use two (one in each wing tip) GE 100Watt halogen sealed beams, p/n
GE-Q4509.
I get them from Aircraft Spruce ($24.95 ea.)
Great candlepower and narrower beam.
The first time I installed them they were too high. I had to re position
them. I forget now what the exact angle is from 3 point position to flying
position. I seem to remember it is close to 15 deg. But you can measure it in your
airplane.
Regards,
Eduardo Iglesias
N23EJ -RV6
Houston, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Balone Marine <balone_99(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rivets and rivet guns, etc. |
I used a 3x For my RV6 , but would suggest a 2x, most
people that have never Rivited before urs it , it is
easyer to handle. I used a flush set with a rubber
gaurd around it , But then I have had it for 40 yr,s .
you may want one without the rubber .
Bud, N663RV, tail dragger, slider.
__________________________________
Free Pop-Up Blocker - Get it now
http://companion.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel(at)blueskyaviation.net> |
First flight RV-6A SN# 24654 N#136DK
Love my Van's!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Now to finsh My -8A then the -10.
Sincerely,
Noel Simmons
Blue Sky Aviation, Inc.
Phone & Fax: 406-538-6574
noel(at)blueskyaviation.net
www.blueskyaviation.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sam Mourning" <sammourning(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Looking for Ted Gauthier |
Does anybody have an email address or other contact info for Ted Gauthier?
I have a question for him on another of his experimental projects.
Thanks.
Sam Mourning
sammourning AT earthlink.net
www.rv-9a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Dugdale" <dugdale(at)voyager.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Looking for Ted Gauthier |
Sam
Yes
tgauthier(at)comcast.net
Peter
-----Original Message-----
From: Sam Mourning <sammourning(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Sunday, November 23, 2003 12:03 PM
Subject: RV6-List: Looking for Ted Gauthier
>
>Does anybody have an email address or other contact info for Ted Gauthier?
>
>I have a question for him on another of his experimental projects.
>
>Thanks.
>
>Sam Mourning
>sammourning AT earthlink.net
>www.rv-9a.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Psiropoulos" <deanpsir(at)easystreet.com> |
Hi all:
Having just installed my brake fittings and lines and fuel vent fittings,
I'm suddenly faced with a dilemma. How to torque these fittings and how
much to torque them. Note: I checked the archives and found reference to a
web site that supposedly has torque specs etc. but I could NOT get my
browser to open the site. Is there someone out there with the answers that
could email them to the list?
I assume the nylon fittings on the low pressure side of the brake system are
just put in finger tight then turned a certain amount further as plastic
makes a good seal without needing a wrench. I put mine in until there was
some resistance and then turned the fitting to its final position. I did
NOT use a wrench on these, I just turned them until there was a good bit of
resistance to me turning them by hand but was still able to move them using
some muscle. Is there a proper procedure for this? If you tell me to put
it in finger tight please provide the definition of "finger tight"! I'm
afraid I'll brake the fitting if I tighten it so tight that I need a wrench
to turn it. Also should I use any sealer or fuel lube on these? Also what
about the little nylon caps that the nylon lines run through into the nylon
fitting, what procedure and how much should these be tightend? And lastly,
is this nylon lines idea too cheesy? Has anyone had people crawl in their
airplane and put their feet on these fittings and lines and damage them?
Should I scrap the whole thing and use aeroquip flexible or some other such
robust lines?
Same question on the brass elbows used in the brake system. The archives
said to put some fuel lube or sealer on them to prevent leaks. I'm curious
how many people have had leaking problems with these fittings as I found
several folks on the archives mention this? I just tightened the brass
fittings to their desired position after not being able to turn them by hand
any more and I didn't use fuel lube or sealer, should I take them out and
apply sealer? Is there a preferred method for torqueing these things (ie.
Torque wrench and torque specs) or just finger tight then wrenched into
final position?
And lastly what about the AN aluminum elbows, unions etc that we use for
fuel and vent lines. What's the proper method for torqueing these? Do you
use a torque wrench and crow's foot and if so how do you compensate for the
higher lever arm introduced with the crow's foot (or is it so small you
don't bother)? What are the torque specs for these? Note that there are
two issues here: one is the procedure and amount of torque for the FLARE
nuts that clamp the tubing ends to the nipples of the fittings and the other
is the torque and procedure for the regular style NUTS that hold the (union,
elbow, tee, etc) fittings into the bulkheads. Thanks for the info.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A canopy, yee ha
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
Well practiced method...tighten them until they don't leak!! The Van's
recommended setup works just fine with the equipment supplied in the kit.
Personally, I wouldn't waste the time trying to use a crows foot and torque
wrench on fluid fittings, a well calibrated elbow works just perfect!
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis
http://www.steinair.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv6-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv6-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dean
Psiropoulos
Subject: RV6-List: Fitting torque.
Hi all:
Having just installed my brake fittings and lines and fuel vent fittings,
I'm suddenly faced with a dilemma. How to torque these fittings and how
much to torque them. Note: I checked the archives and found reference to a
web site that supposedly has torque specs etc. but I could NOT get my
browser to open the site. Is there someone out there with the answers that
could email them to the list?
I assume the nylon fittings on the low pressure side of the brake system are
just put in finger tight then turned a certain amount further as plastic
makes a good seal without needing a wrench. I put mine in until there was
some resistance and then turned the fitting to its final position. I did
NOT use a wrench on these, I just turned them until there was a good bit of
resistance to me turning them by hand but was still able to move them using
some muscle. Is there a proper procedure for this? If you tell me to put
it in finger tight please provide the definition of "finger tight"! I'm
afraid I'll brake the fitting if I tighten it so tight that I need a wrench
to turn it. Also should I use any sealer or fuel lube on these? Also what
about the little nylon caps that the nylon lines run through into the nylon
fitting, what procedure and how much should these be tightend? And lastly,
is this nylon lines idea too cheesy? Has anyone had people crawl in their
airplane and put their feet on these fittings and lines and damage them?
Should I scrap the whole thing and use aeroquip flexible or some other such
robust lines?
Same question on the brass elbows used in the brake system. The archives
said to put some fuel lube or sealer on them to prevent leaks. I'm curious
how many people have had leaking problems with these fittings as I found
several folks on the archives mention this? I just tightened the brass
fittings to their desired position after not being able to turn them by hand
any more and I didn't use fuel lube or sealer, should I take them out and
apply sealer? Is there a preferred method for torqueing these things (ie.
Torque wrench and torque specs) or just finger tight then wrenched into
final position?
And lastly what about the AN aluminum elbows, unions etc that we use for
fuel and vent lines. What's the proper method for torqueing these? Do you
use a torque wrench and crow's foot and if so how do you compensate for the
higher lever arm introduced with the crow's foot (or is it so small you
don't bother)? What are the torque specs for these? Note that there are
two issues here: one is the procedure and amount of torque for the FLARE
nuts that clamp the tubing ends to the nipples of the fittings and the other
is the torque and procedure for the regular style NUTS that hold the (union,
elbow, tee, etc) fittings into the bulkheads. Thanks for the info.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A canopy, yee ha
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Psiropoulos" <deanpsir(at)easystreet.com> |
I just installed the rudder pedals for the last time (I hope). So..I torqued
the AN3 bolts to 25 inch pounds per spec. This squeezes the plastic bearing
blocks quite a bit and you can see a visible deflection. Should I tighten
bolts holding these plastic bearing blocks to the same torque specs as bolts
holding metal parts together or is there a different procedure? If so what
is the proper way to do this? Also do I need to put a washer between the
head of the bolt and the plastic block? Van's plans don't seem to show any
(just a washer under the nut) but then again when you get this far the RV-6
plans get a little sparse on info and one is left to either guess how things
go or talk to those who've gone before them!
Another question in the same vein concerns bolts holding the aileron and
elevator bellcranks in place. These bellcranks have aluminum spacers
between the structure and washers on either side of the bearing. When I
tried to torque the quarter inch bolt on the elevator bellcrank to the
specified 70 inch pounds, it looked like the bolt was beginning to flex so I
backed it off. What is the proper torque and procedures for tightening
these bolts? I haven't seen any information about how to properly tighten
these assemblies. Thanks.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A Canopy, oh boy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson(at)consolidated.net> |
Rv8-List" ,
Rv7-List
Hey Stein, I got the order from you today,
Great service and great prices. I have the Coax installed and the Xpndr checed
out OK..
Hoping to have the uhmw tape on in a couple of weeks.........
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Dugdale" <dugdale(at)voyager.net> |
| Subject: | Tracy Sayler's info |
Hello
Does anyone have Tracy Sayler's email address or phone number?
Thanks
Peter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | What Listers Are Saying III |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Comeaux" <mcomeaux(at)bendnet.com> |
I'm getting baffled on baffeling any good web sites or instructions on how to trim
to cowling?
Regards Mike Comeaux
mcomeaux(at)bendnet.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | d.meloche(at)att.net |
i found that measuring the distance between the baffles and the bottom of the
cowling was virtually impossible. after some thinking i came up with a method
that worked quite well. i went to staples and bought a couple of packages of
refrigerator magnets. i then cut some lengths of steel strapping about 1.5"
long (i used some leftover stuff from vans crating). the baffling has to be
trimmed far enough that the cowling doesn't touch. then place the magnet on
one side of the aluminum baffling and the steel strapping on the other side,
held in place with the magnet, protruding above the baffling edge. do this
every few inches around the baffling. place the cowling on and the cowling
will push the protruding straps down. remove the cowling and measure the
distance from the top of each strap to the top of the cowling. this is your
clearance. trim as required. works great!
doug meloche
rv6
>
> I'm getting baffled on baffeling any good web sites or instructions on how to
> trim to cowling?
> Regards Mike Comeaux
> mcomeaux(at)bendnet.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)QCBC.ORG> |
, , ,
,
| Subject: | Fw: pneumatic rivet squeezer |
SUSPICIOUS_RECIPS
> > I have pneumatic rivet squeezer on eBay.
> >
> > http://tinyurl.com/y6ih
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > Dave DeWinter
> > Former RV6 builder and owner
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Ken Brooks ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Ken Brooks
Subject: Whirlwind 151-series Propeller Installation
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/kenbrooks@charter.net.01.03.2004/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
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6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
, ,
,
""
,
| Subject: | I made a donation & I'm registering as a Marrow donor |
Okay Guys (and Gals),
Donating was the EASY part (you can do it too, it will only hurt when my wife
aka "my banker" finds out). I also did some soul searching, cuz' it's gonna
take a lot of time & traveling, but I decided I'm gonna be tested as a donor.
I just registered and now I wait to get an appointment to be tested. I gotta
go up to Stanford Medical Center (it's the closest donor center to me) and
I'll let you all know how it goes.
I hope some other folks will consider taking the plunge, either donating $
or becoming a blood/marrow donor or both... ya'll know it's for good/deserving
people.
check out
http://www.marrow.org/HELP/join_the_registry.html
or
www.transplants.org
Take Care and Take Air my friends,
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Pflimlin" <pablo(at)phonewave.net> |
, ,
, ,
| Subject: | Re: RV7-List: I made a donation & I'm registering as a Marrow |
donor
In the interest of elimlinating SPAM, what the hell does this msg. got to do
with RV's??
----- Original Message -----
From: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com>
; ;
; ""
;
Subject: RV7-List: I made a donation & I'm registering as a Marrow donor
> --> RV7-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut"
>
> Okay Guys (and Gals),
>
> Donating was the EASY part (you can do it too, it will only hurt when
my wife aka "my banker" finds out). I also did some soul searching, cuz'
it's gonna take a lot of time & traveling, but I decided I'm gonna be tested
as a donor. I just registered and now I wait to get an appointment to be
tested. I gotta go up to Stanford Medical Center (it's the closest donor
center to me) and I'll let you all know how it goes.
>
> I hope some other folks will consider taking the plunge, either
donating $ or becoming a blood/marrow donor or both... ya'll know it's for
good/deserving people.
>
> check out
>
> http://www.marrow.org/HELP/join_the_registry.html
>
> or
> www.transplants.org
>
>
> Take Care and Take Air my friends,
>
> Chuck
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel(at)blueskyaviation.net> |
"Rv9-List(at)Matronics. Com" ,
"Rv-List(at)Matronics. Com" ,
"rvyahoo" ,
"Rv7-List(at)Matronics. Com" ,
"Rv6-List(at)Matronics. Com"
List,
Have cash! I am looking for a good airframe or project that has been
meticulously built. Does not mater were the setter wheel is preferably a 6
or higher airframe. Please respond with email.
Sincerely,
Noel Simmons
Blue Sky Aviation, Inc.
Phone & Fax: 406-538-6574
noel(at)blueskyaviation.net
www.blueskyaviation.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Psiropoulos" <deanpsir(at)easystreet.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6 wings on RV-4 |
Actually Chuck:
If I recall this correctly, the spar bolt pattern on the RV-4 is the same as
on a -6, it's the root ribs that are moved further out to make room for the
side by side fuselage (5 ribs close together at -6 wing root versus 3 ribs
on the -4). So...you could install the -6 wings into the fuselage of the -4
and it should bolt right up at the main spars. The issues you'll have to
deal with will be 1) filling the large gap between the fuselage and the root
ribs and 2)extending the rear spar mounting brackets at the fuselage to meet
the spar root (or alternatively extending the rear spar to meet the RV-4
mounting brackets). Probably could be done but it's NON trivial (should be
filled with ribs and skin to strengthen the area), especially if you want to
use the airplane for aerobatics (you need all the strength you can get at
the wing root when you're pulling lots of Gs). If you have un-drilled spars
it would be better to cut them off so the wing fits properly. The only
problem with this (and with cutting off a set of predrilled spars) is
getting them drilled to the fuselage carry through structure AND you'll end
up with a wingspan that's a foot shorter than the plans (increases your
stall speed a few MPH). But, the -6 does have larger fuel capacity than the
RV-4.
Regards,
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A, old canopy frame headaches
From: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com>
Subject: RV6-List: Can the RV-6 wings be mated to an RV-4 fuselage ???
Okay Guys & Gals,
Here's the 24 thousand dollar question... Can a set of RV-6 wings be
mated to an RV-4 fuselage ? If so, what differences and/or changes must be
made to accommodate said cross-breeding.
...well since you asked; I've ended up with an RV-4 fuselage & emp and
I'm probably going to purchase a set of RV-6 wings. Soooo....
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Krieg <rv6a(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Antennas installations |
I have many questions on antenna placement and cabling for them. Things
like do duplexers work to use 1 antenna for 2 radios, etc. Rather than
spew them all here, I'd like to find reference materials. Then, I can
post up what I still don't understand. Is there a good website or book
you folks can recommend for learning more about this?
Chris
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Steve Glasgow ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Steve Glasgow
Subject: N123SG Photos
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/willfly@carolina.rr.com.02.22.2004/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
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Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Daus" <dauscj(at)nb.net> |
Hello,
I am just about done bolting my wings on my RV6A and was wondering about the wing
tips. I had the opportunity to attend Sun N Fun 93' and met a wonderful fellow
there. I believe his name was Tracy Sailor from Santa Maria California. He
had a set of drooped non vans wing tips on his very fast RV6. Does anyone out
there know where I can get a set of them? Is there any one in the south central
Pa region (or close by) that would be interested in renting me some time in
a RV6A. One last question. Can someone put me in tough with a very helpful FAA
inspector that can help me through the whole certification process?
Thank you for your time!
Chuck
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Psiropoulos" <deanpsir(at)easystreet.com> |
Anyone have any idea how much to torque bolts holding the plastic bearing
blocks used in the manual flap handle and rudder pedal mountings? I
tightend them to the standard torques for the size of bolt used but that
seems to compress the plastic quite a bit. Maybe it's not a problem but I
would like to know for sure, any takers?
Also the bellcrank bolt torques, I started tightening the elevator bellcrank
down to 75 inch pounds but the bolt looked like it was starting to bow so I
backed off. Anyone know what these assemblies are suppose to be torqued to
(recalling that they are only supported in the center by thick wall aluminum
tubes and the ball bearing assembly)? Thanks.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A, canopy headaches
PS: Anyone had to hack 1 inch out of both rear bows on your old style canopy
frame? I did and I let Van's know I wasn't too happy about it either (I'm
not supposed to manufacture small parts they are)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Greg Gruninger ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Greg Gruninger
Subject: Completed RV-8!
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Rob Ray ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
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Subject: RV-FOUR (Editor's Note: WOW!!)
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Jerry Calvert ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
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Subject: Leather Interior
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/rv6@cox.net.01.31.2004/index.html
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "wayne larabee" <wlarabee(at)specent.com> |
anybody have experience with correcting excessive toe in or out on the main gear
of an rv6 ??? wlarabee@specent ,com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Chalkie Stobbart+ ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Chalkie Stobbart+
Subject: Canopy and winshield attachment with Sika adhesive.
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/cajole76@ispwest.com.02.01.2004/index.html
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Chalkie Stobbart ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
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Subject: RV-List article applicable to all RV's and all Plexiglas canopies.
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank Friedman" <frankzip(at)charter.net> |
, ,
, ,
, ,
, ,
| Subject: | RV8 Tail Kit for sale |
Changed projects so RV 8 tail kit for sale. Very little work done. This is a pre
punched kit, however it was before the 4130 parts were powder coated. All 4130
parts were primered.
Included are preview plans, electric trim kit, 18 years of the RVaitor, Avery temporary
assembly pins, 2 construction videos. Vertical stabilizer tip is for
a rear position light. Cost for all of this now would be about $1775.
Buy it now for $1200. plus shipping before I put it on ebay. Bonus, free delivery
within 100 miles of Oshkosh.
Yep guys,I'm in OSH, 8-10 minutes to the airport, the downside, Jan temps, 17 days
below normal and 4-5 inches of snow last night.
Frank at 920-237-3536 or frankzip(at)charter.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "john white" <jakeaire(at)msn.com> |
MepUpstairs(at)cs.com, jeanger(at)sympatico.ca, michaelwhite(at)knology.net,
britesprite(at)earthlink.net, MEZEY(at)adelphia.net, ringsend(at)friend.ly.com,
russjanice(at)msn.com, rv6-list(at)matronics.com, tmb1564(at)aol.com
| Subject: | FW: Fwd: This is not a Joke, It is very serious. |
Create your own personal Web page with the info you use most, at My MSN.
From: Gals22(at)aol.com
Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2004 11:55:51 EST
Subject: Fwd: This is not a Joke, It is very serious.
Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2004 09:19:12 -0600
From: Mary Laughlin <MaryTheToothFairy(at)cox.net>
Subject: This is not a Joke, It is very serious.
The Shell Oil Company recently issued a warning after three incidents in
which mobile phones (cell phones) ignited fumes during fueling operations.
In the first case,the phone was placed on the car's trunk lid during
fueling; it rang and the ensuing fire destroyed the car and the gasoline
pump.
In the second, an individual hadsevere burns to their face when fumes
ignited as they answered a call while refueling their car.
And in the third,an individual suffered burns to the thigh and groin as
fumes ignited when the phone, which was in their pocket, rang while they
were fueling their car.
You should know that:
Mobile Phones can ignite fuel or fumes
Mobile phones that light up when switched on or when they ring release
enough energy to provide a spark for ignition
Mobile phones should not be used in filling stations, or when fueling
lawn mowers, boat! , Etc.
Mobile phones should not be used, or should be turned off, around other
materials that generate flammable or explosive fumes or dust, i.e.
solvents, chemicals, gases, grain dust, etc.)
To sum it up, here are the: Four Rules for Safe Refueling
1) Turn off engine
2) Don't smoke
3) Don't use your cell phone - leave it inside the vehicle or turn it off
4) Don't re-enter your vehicle during fueling
Bob Renkes of Petroleum Equipment Institute is working on a campaign to
try and make people aware of fires as a result of "static electricity"
at gas pumps. His company has researched 150 cases of these fires.
His results were very surprising:
1) Out of 150 cases, almost all of them were women.
2) Almost all cases involved the person getting back in their vehicle
while the nozzle was still pumping gas, when finished and they went back
to pull the nozzle out the fire started, as a result of static.
3) Most had on rubber-soled shoes.
4) Most men never get back in their vehicle until completely finished.
This is why they are seldom involved in these types of fires.
5) Don't ever use cell phones when pumping gas
6) It is the vapors that come out of the gas that cause the fire, when
connected with static charges.
7) There were 29 fires where the vehicle was reentered and the nozzle
was touched during refueling from a variety of makes and models. Some
resulting in extensive damage to the vehicle, to the station, and to the
customer.
8) Seventeen fires that occurred before, during or immediately after the
gas cap was removed and before! fueling began.
Mr. Renkes stresses to NEVER get back into your vehicle while filling it
with gas.
If you absolutely HAVE to get in your vehicle while the gas is pumping,
make sure you get out, close the door TOUCHING THE METAL, before you
ever pull the nozzle out. This way the static from your body will be
discharged before you ever
remove the nozzle.
As I mentioned earlier, The Petroleum Equipment Institute, along with
several other companies now, are really trying to make the public aware
of this danger.You can find out more information by going
tohttp://www.pei.org/ . Once here, click in the center of the screen
where it says "Stop Static".
I ask you to please send this information to ALL your family and
friends, especially those who have kids in the car with them while
pumping gas. If this were to happen to them, they may not be able to get
the children out in time. Thanks for passing this along.
The Shell Oil Company
recently issued a warning after three incidents in which
mobile phones (cell phones) ignited fumes during fueling
operations.
In the first case,the phone was placed on the car's trunk lid
during fueling; it rang and the ensuing fire destroyed the car and the
gasoline pump.
In the second, an individual hadsevere burns to their face when
fumes ignited as they answered a call while refueling their car.
And in the third,an
individual suffered burns to the thigh and groin as fumes ignited when
the phone, which was in their pocket, rang while they were fueling
their car.
You should know that:
Mobile Phones can ignite fuel or fumes
Mobile phones that light up
when switched on or when they ring release enough energy to provide a
spark for ignition
Mobile phones should not be
used in filling stations, or when fueling lawn mowers, boat! , Etc.
Mobile phones should not be used, or should be turned off, around other
materials that generate flammable or explosive fumes or dust, i.e.
solvents, chemicals, gases, grain dust, etc.)
To sum it up, here are the: Four Rules for Safe Refueling
1) Turn off engine
2) Don't smoke
3) Don't use your cell phone - leave it inside the vehicle or turn it
off
4) Don't re-enter your vehicle during fueling
Bob Renkes of Petroleum Equipment Institute is working on a campaign to
try and make people aware of fires as a result of "static
electricity" at gas pumps. His company has researched 150
cases of these fires.
His results were very
surprising:
1) Out of 150 cases, almost all of them were women.
2) Almost all cases involved the person getting back in their vehicle
while the nozzle was still pumping gas, when finished and they went
back to pull the nozzle out the fire started, as a result of static.
3) Most had on rubber-soled shoes.
4) Most men never get back in their vehicle until completely finished.
This is why they are seldom involved in these types of fires.
5) Don't ever use cell phones
when pumping gas
6) It is the vapors that come out of the gas that cause the fire, when
connected with static charges.
7) There were 29 fires where the vehicle was reentered and the nozzle
was touched during refueling from a variety of makes and models. Some
resulting in extensive damage to the vehicle, to the station, and to
the customer.
8) Seventeen fires that occurred before, during or immediately after
the gas cap was removed and before! fueling began.
Mr. Renkes stresses to NEVER get back into your vehicle while
filling it with gas.
If you absolutely HAVE to get
in your vehicle while the gas is pumping, make sure you get out, close
the door TOUCHING THE METAL, before you
ever pull the nozzle out. This way the static from your body will be
discharged before you ever
remove the nozzle.
As I mentioned earlier, The
Petroleum Equipment Institute, along with several other companies now,
are really trying to make the public aware of this danger.You can find
out more information by going tohttp://www.pei.org/ . Once here, click in the
center of the screen where it says "Stop Static".
I
ask you to please send this information to ALL your family and friends,
especially those who have kids in the car with them while pumping gas.
If this were to happen to them, they may not be able to get the
children out in time. Thanks for
passing this along.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Hoshowski" <ve7fp(at)jetstream.net> |
anybody have experience with correcting excessive toe in or out on the
main gear of an rv6 ??? wlarabee@specent ,com
Wayne,
My RV6 was one of the early ones where you had to drill the gear legs.
I had a 4 inch by 4 inch 12 foot long angle iron handy although other
sizes or even a good straight piece of wood would work. Using plum bobs
I made sure my fuselage was on a center line and that my gear legs were
square to the center line, then I used a small piece of .063 to shim the
axels to toe in. My reasoning was that at this point the fuselage was
quite light. When you put 400 to 600 lbs of load in the airplane the
wheels will tend to toe out. My tires wore evenly and got many years of
service out of them.
Ken Hoshowski
RV6 C-FKEH First flight Sept 8, 1993
Salmon Arm B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)QCBC.ORG> |
, , ,
, ,
, , ,
,
| Subject: | Re: FW: Fwd: This is not a Joke, It is very serious. |
This is a HOAX or urban legend.
Go to http://www.snopes.com/autos/hazards/gasvapor.asp
To set off gas vapor, there must be a spark. Since solid state switching
doesn't have any, this is physically impossible.
Cy Galley
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "john white" <jakeaire(at)msn.com>
; ; ;
; ;
; ; ;
;
Subject: RV6-List: FW: Fwd: This is not a Joke, It is very serious.
>
>
> Create your own personal Web page with the info you use most, at My MSN.
> From: Gals22(at)aol.com
> Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2004 11:55:51 EST
> Subject: Fwd: This is not a Joke, It is very serious.
> To: tmallen(at)telepath.com, H20WITCH1(at)aol.com
>
>
> Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2004 09:19:12 -0600
> From: Mary Laughlin <MaryTheToothFairy(at)cox.net>
> To: BunnysBabyGirl(at)cox.net
> Subject: This is not a Joke, It is very serious.
>
>
> The Shell Oil Company recently issued a warning after three incidents in
> which mobile phones (cell phones) ignited fumes during fueling operations.
>
> In the first case,the phone was placed on the car's trunk lid during
> fueling; it rang and the ensuing fire destroyed the car and the gasoline
> pump.
> In the second, an individual hadsevere burns to their face when fumes
> ignited as they answered a call while refueling their car.
> And in the third,an individual suffered burns to the thigh and groin as
> fumes ignited when the phone, which was in their pocket, rang while they
> were fueling their car.
>
> You should know that:
> Mobile Phones can ignite fuel or fumes
> Mobile phones that light up when switched on or when they ring release
> enough energy to provide a spark for ignition
> Mobile phones should not be used in filling stations, or when fueling
> lawn mowers, boat! , Etc.
> Mobile phones should not be used, or should be turned off, around other
> materials that generate flammable or explosive fumes or dust, i.e.
> solvents, chemicals, gases, grain dust, etc.)
>
> To sum it up, here are the: Four Rules for Safe Refueling
> 1) Turn off engine
> 2) Don't smoke
> 3) Don't use your cell phone - leave it inside the vehicle or turn it off
> 4) Don't re-enter your vehicle during fueling
>
> Bob Renkes of Petroleum Equipment Institute is working on a campaign to
> try and make people aware of fires as a result of "static electricity"
> at gas pumps. His company has researched 150 cases of these fires.
> His results were very surprising:
> 1) Out of 150 cases, almost all of them were women.
> 2) Almost all cases involved the person getting back in their vehicle
> while the nozzle was still pumping gas, when finished and they went back
> to pull the nozzle out the fire started, as a result of static.
> 3) Most had on rubber-soled shoes.
> 4) Most men never get back in their vehicle until completely finished.
> This is why they are seldom involved in these types of fires.
> 5) Don't ever use cell phones when pumping gas
> 6) It is the vapors that come out of the gas that cause the fire, when
> connected with static charges.
> 7) There were 29 fires where the vehicle was reentered and the nozzle
> was touched during refueling from a variety of makes and models. Some
> resulting in extensive damage to the vehicle, to the station, and to the
> customer.
> 8) Seventeen fires that occurred before, during or immediately after the
> gas cap was removed and before! fueling began.
>
> Mr. Renkes stresses to NEVER get back into your vehicle while filling it
> with gas.
>
> If you absolutely HAVE to get in your vehicle while the gas is pumping,
> make sure you get out, close the door TOUCHING THE METAL, before you
> ever pull the nozzle out. This way the static from your body will be
> discharged before you ever
> remove the nozzle.
>
> As I mentioned earlier, The Petroleum Equipment Institute, along with
> several other companies now, are really trying to make the public aware
> of this danger.You can find out more information by going
> tohttp://www.pei.org/ . Once here, click in the center of the screen
> where it says "Stop Static".
>
> I ask you to please send this information to ALL your family and
> friends, especially those who have kids in the car with them while
> pumping gas. If this were to happen to them, they may not be able to get
> the children out in time. Thanks for passing this along.
>
>
> The Shell Oil Company
> recently issued a warning after three incidents in which
> mobile phones (cell phones) ignited fumes during fueling
> operations.
>
>
> In the first case,the phone was placed on the car's trunk lid
> during fueling; it rang and the ensuing fire destroyed the car and the
> gasoline pump.
>
> In the second, an individual hadsevere burns to their face when
> fumes ignited as they answered a call while refueling their car.
>
> And in the third,an
> individual suffered burns to the thigh and groin as fumes ignited when
> the phone, which was in their pocket, rang while they were fueling
> their car.
>
>
> You should know that:
>
> Mobile Phones can ignite fuel or fumes
>
> Mobile phones that light up
> when switched on or when they ring release enough energy to provide a
> spark for ignition
>
> Mobile phones should not be
> used in filling stations, or when fueling lawn mowers, boat! , Etc.
>
> Mobile phones should not be used, or should be turned off, around other
> materials that generate flammable or explosive fumes or dust, i.e.
> solvents, chemicals, gases, grain dust, etc.)
>
>
> To sum it up, here are the: Four Rules for Safe Refueling
>
> 1) Turn off engine
>
> 2) Don't smoke
>
> 3) Don't use your cell phone - leave it inside the vehicle or turn it
> off
>
> 4) Don't re-enter your vehicle during fueling
>
>
> Bob Renkes of Petroleum Equipment Institute is working on a campaign to
> try and make people aware of fires as a result of "static
> electricity" at gas pumps. His company has researched 150
> cases of these fires.
>
> His results were very
> surprising:
>
> 1) Out of 150 cases, almost all of them were women.
>
> 2) Almost all cases involved the person getting back in their vehicle
> while the nozzle was still pumping gas, when finished and they went
> back to pull the nozzle out the fire started, as a result of static.
>
> 3) Most had on rubber-soled shoes.
>
> 4) Most men never get back in their vehicle until completely finished.
> This is why they are seldom involved in these types of fires.
>
> 5) Don't ever use cell phones
> when pumping gas
>
> 6) It is the vapors that come out of the gas that cause the fire, when
> connected with static charges.
>
> 7) There were 29 fires where the vehicle was reentered and the nozzle
> was touched during refueling from a variety of makes and models. Some
> resulting in extensive damage to the vehicle, to the station, and to
> the customer.
>
> 8) Seventeen fires that occurred before, during or immediately after
> the gas cap was removed and before! fueling began.
>
>
> Mr. Renkes stresses to NEVER get back into your vehicle while
> filling it with gas.
>
>
> If you absolutely HAVE to get
> in your vehicle while the gas is pumping, make sure you get out, close
> the door TOUCHING THE METAL, before you
> ever pull the nozzle out. This way the static from your body will be
> discharged before you ever
>
> remove the nozzle.
>
>
> As I mentioned earlier, The
> Petroleum Equipment Institute, along with several other companies now,
> are really trying to make the public aware of this danger.You can find
> out more information by going tohttp://www.pei.org/ . Once here, click in
the
> center of the screen where it says "Stop Static".
>
>
> I
> ask you to please send this information to ALL your family and friends,
> especially those who have kids in the car with them while pumping gas.
> If this were to happen to them, they may not be able to get the
> children out in time. Thanks for
> passing this along.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <klwerner(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FW: Fwd: This is not a Joke, It is very serious. |
Cy,
This is - NO - joke at all! It's got nothing to do with the solid state switches
you mentioned, but rather STATIC Electricity.
It happened a couple of times here in the dry climate of the S.W., mainly on hot
& dry summer days. It is probably not as much of an issue in area's with high
humidity?
The one I remember best was even caught on TV: A young lady was talking on her
Cell, whilst opening her gas cap to fill up.
POOF said the magic dragon, and flames came out of the filler neck. A little static
spark from her petite little hand was all that was needed. (Unless of course
there was a little gremlin inside the gas tank, waiting for her to open the
lid, so it could set the vapors on fire with matches! But what are the chances
of that, after all the matches would be wet, now wouldn't they be?) And
NO, she was not smoking while talking.
You say it's physically impossible??? I don't think so!!!
I even make it a point ot leave my Cell inside the car while at the gas pump.
We never stop learning about the intricate mysteries of live, now do we?
P.S. This should not apply to Diesel drivers! So chit-chat away when you diesel-up.
This is a HOAX or urban legend.
Go to http://www.snopes.com/autos/hazards/gasvapor.asp
To set off gas vapor, there must be a spark. Since solid state switching
doesn't have any, this is physically impossible.
Cy Galley
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "john white" <jakeaire(at)msn.com>
; ; ;
; ;
; ; ;
;
Subject: RV6-List: FW: Fwd: This is not a Joke, It is very serious.
>
>
> Create your own personal Web page with the info you use most, at My MSN.
> From: Gals22(at)aol.com
> Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2004 11:55:51 EST
> Subject: Fwd: This is not a Joke, It is very serious.
> To: tmallen(at)telepath.com, H20WITCH1(at)aol.com
>
>
> Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2004 09:19:12 -0600
> From: Mary Laughlin <MaryTheToothFairy(at)cox.net>
> To: BunnysBabyGirl(at)cox.net
> Subject: This is not a Joke, It is very serious.
>
>
> The Shell Oil Company recently issued a warning after three incidents in
> which mobile phones (cell phones) ignited fumes during fueling operations.
>
> In the first case,the phone was placed on the car's trunk lid during
> fueling; it rang and the ensuing fire destroyed the car and the gasoline
> pump.
> In the second, an individual hadsevere burns to their face when fumes
> ignited as they answered a call while refueling their car.
> And in the third,an individual suffered burns to the thigh and groin as
> fumes ignited when the phone, which was in their pocket, rang while they
> were fueling their car.
>
> You should know that:
> Mobile Phones can ignite fuel or fumes
> Mobile phones that light up when switched on or when they ring release
> enough energy to provide a spark for ignition
> Mobile phones should not be used in filling stations, or when fueling
> lawn mowers, boat! , Etc.
> Mobile phones should not be used, or should be turned off, around other
> materials that generate flammable or explosive fumes or dust, i.e.
> solvents, chemicals, gases, grain dust, etc.)
>
> To sum it up, here are the: Four Rules for Safe Refueling
> 1) Turn off engine
> 2) Don't smoke
> 3) Don't use your cell phone - leave it inside the vehicle or turn it off
> 4) Don't re-enter your vehicle during fueling
>
> Bob Renkes of Petroleum Equipment Institute is working on a campaign to
> try and make people aware of fires as a result of "static electricity"
> at gas pumps. His company has researched 150 cases of these fires.
> His results were very surprising:
> 1) Out of 150 cases, almost all of them were women.
> 2) Almost all cases involved the person getting back in their vehicle
> while the nozzle was still pumping gas, when finished and they went back
> to pull the nozzle out the fire started, as a result of static.
> 3) Most had on rubber-soled shoes.
> 4) Most men never get back in their vehicle until completely finished.
> This is why they are seldom involved in these types of fires.
> 5) Don't ever use cell phones when pumping gas
> 6) It is the vapors that come out of the gas that cause the fire, when
> connected with static charges.
> 7) There were 29 fires where the vehicle was reentered and the nozzle
> was touched during refueling from a variety of makes and models. Some
> resulting in extensive damage to the vehicle, to the station, and to the
> customer.
> 8) Seventeen fires that occurred before, during or immediately after the
> gas cap was removed and before! fueling began.
>
> Mr. Renkes stresses to NEVER get back into your vehicle while filling it
> with gas.
>
> If you absolutely HAVE to get in your vehicle while the gas is pumping,
> make sure you get out, close the door TOUCHING THE METAL, before you
> ever pull the nozzle out. This way the static from your body will be
> discharged before you ever
> remove the nozzle.
>
> As I mentioned earlier, The Petroleum Equipment Institute, along with
> several other companies now, are really trying to make the public aware
> of this danger.You can find out more information by going
> tohttp://www.pei.org/ . Once here, click in the center of the screen
> where it says "Stop Static".
>
> I ask you to please send this information to ALL your family and
> friends, especially those who have kids in the car with them while
> pumping gas. If this were to happen to them, they may not be able to get
> the children out in time. Thanks for passing this along.
>
>
> The Shell Oil Company
> recently issued a warning after three incidents in which
> mobile phones (cell phones) ignited fumes during fueling
> operations.
>
>
> In the first case,the phone was placed on the car's trunk lid
> during fueling; it rang and the ensuing fire destroyed the car and the
> gasoline pump.
>
> In the second, an individual hadsevere burns to their face when
> fumes ignited as they answered a call while refueling their car.
>
> And in the third,an
> individual suffered burns to the thigh and groin as fumes ignited when
> the phone, which was in their pocket, rang while they were fueling
> their car.
>
>
> You should know that:
>
> Mobile Phones can ignite fuel or fumes
>
> Mobile phones that light up
> when switched on or when they ring release enough energy to provide a
> spark for ignition
>
> Mobile phones should not be
> used in filling stations, or when fueling lawn mowers, boat! , Etc.
>
> Mobile phones should not be used, or should be turned off, around other
> materials that generate flammable or explosive fumes or dust, i.e.
> solvents, chemicals, gases, grain dust, etc.)
>
>
> To sum it up, here are the: Four Rules for Safe Refueling
>
> 1) Turn off engine
>
> 2) Don't smoke
>
> 3) Don't use your cell phone - leave it inside the vehicle or turn it
> off
>
> 4) Don't re-enter your vehicle during fueling
>
>
> Bob Renkes of Petroleum Equipment Institute is working on a campaign to
> try and make people aware of fires as a result of "static
> electricity" at gas pumps. His company has researched 150
> cases of these fires.
>
> His results were very
> surprising:
>
> 1) Out of 150 cases, almost all of them were women.
>
> 2) Almost all cases involved the person getting back in their vehicle
> while the nozzle was still pumping gas, when finished and they went
> back to pull the nozzle out the fire started, as a result of static.
>
> 3) Most had on rubber-soled shoes.
>
> 4) Most men never get back in their vehicle until completely finished.
> This is why they are seldom involved in these types of fires.
>
> 5) Don't ever use cell phones
> when pumping gas
>
> 6) It is the vapors that come out of the gas that cause the fire, when
> connected with static charges.
>
> 7) There were 29 fires where the vehicle was reentered and the nozzle
> was touched during refueling from a variety of makes and models. Some
> resulting in extensive damage to the vehicle, to the station, and to
> the customer.
>
> 8) Seventeen fires that occurred before, during or immediately after
> the gas cap was removed and before! fueling began.
>
>
> Mr. Renkes stresses to NEVER get back into your vehicle while
> filling it with gas.
>
>
> If you absolutely HAVE to get
> in your vehicle while the gas is pumping, make sure you get out, close
> the door TOUCHING THE METAL, before you
> ever pull the nozzle out. This way the static from your body will be
> discharged before you ever
>
> remove the nozzle.
>
>
> As I mentioned earlier, The
> Petroleum Equipment Institute, along with several other companies now,
> are really trying to make the public aware of this danger.You can find
> out more information by going tohttp://www.pei.org/ . Once here, click in
the
> center of the screen where it says "Stop Static".
>
>
> I
> ask you to please send this information to ALL your family and friends,
> especially those who have kids in the car with them while pumping gas.
> If this were to happen to them, they may not be able to get the
> children out in time. Thanks for
> passing this along.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)QCBC.ORG> |
| Subject: | Re: FW: Fwd: This is not a Joke, It is very serious. |
You are correct about static electricity. How would a cell phone create
that even if on? Why would turning it off stop static electricity?
Did you go to the snopes site?
http://www.snopes.com/autos/hazards/gasvapor.asp Even the Petroleum
Equipment Institute which had the warning at one time has removed the cell
phone warning. Remember this important urgent message first appeared in
1999. If it had been true there would have been updates and many instances
of fires caused by cell phone use as cell phones use has dramatically
increased.
If you have any references about fueling fires set by cell phones being on
since 1999 please forward them so I can check them out. It is an urban
legend!
Cy Galley
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
----- Original Message -----
From: <klwerner(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV6-List: FW: Fwd: This is not a Joke, It is very serious.
>
> Cy,
> This is - NO - joke at all! It's got nothing to do with the solid state
switches you mentioned, but rather STATIC Electricity.
> It happened a couple of times here in the dry climate of the S.W., mainly
on hot & dry summer days. It is probably not as much of an issue in area's
with high humidity?
>
> The one I remember best was even caught on TV: A young lady was talking
on her Cell, whilst opening her gas cap to fill up.
> POOF said the magic dragon, and flames came out of the filler neck. A
little static spark from her petite little hand was all that was needed.
(Unless of course there was a little gremlin inside the gas tank, waiting
for her to open the lid, so it could set the vapors on fire with matches!
But what are the chances of that, after all the matches would be wet, now
wouldn't they be?) And NO, she was not smoking while talking.
>
> You say it's physically impossible??? I don't think so!!!
> I even make it a point ot leave my Cell inside the car while at the gas
pump.
>
> We never stop learning about the intricate mysteries of live, now do we?
>
> P.S. This should not apply to Diesel drivers! So chit-chat away when you
diesel-up.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FW: Fwd: This is not a Joke, It is very serious. |
Guys,
This has been researched thoroughly by my collegues in the forensic
consulting industry. The problem is static electricity after fueling the
vehicle. The explosion occurs when the person removes the gas nozzle and
goes to put the cap back on. The static electricity comes from the
person touching the car when the fumes are present. The window of
opportunity is very small as the proper gas/air mixture is only present
for a few seconds before the mixture becomes too lean as the fuel
evaporates off.
It has been found that this most often occurs with women drivers as they
tend to get back into the car during fueling instead of standing around
like most men and therefore have an opportunity to "recharge" with
static electricity as they enter and exit the car. The cell phone issue
is sensationalism by the news people and is not based on fact, only
coincidence.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv6-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv6-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Cy Galley
Subject: Re: RV6-List: FW: Fwd: This is not a Joke, It is very serious.
You are correct about static electricity. How would a cell phone create
that even if on? Why would turning it off stop static electricity?
Did you go to the snopes site?
http://www.snopes.com/autos/hazards/gasvapor.asp Even the Petroleum
Equipment Institute which had the warning at one time has removed the
cell
phone warning. Remember this important urgent message first appeared in
1999. If it had been true there would have been updates and many
instances
of fires caused by cell phone use as cell phones use has dramatically
increased.
If you have any references about fueling fires set by cell phones being
on
since 1999 please forward them so I can check them out. It is an urban
legend!
Cy Galley
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
----- Original Message -----
From: <klwerner(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV6-List: FW: Fwd: This is not a Joke, It is very serious.
>
> Cy,
> This is - NO - joke at all! It's got nothing to do with the solid
state
switches you mentioned, but rather STATIC Electricity.
> It happened a couple of times here in the dry climate of the S.W.,
mainly
on hot & dry summer days. It is probably not as much of an issue in
area's
with high humidity?
>
> The one I remember best was even caught on TV: A young lady was
talking
on her Cell, whilst opening her gas cap to fill up.
> POOF said the magic dragon, and flames came out of the filler neck. A
little static spark from her petite little hand was all that was needed.
(Unless of course there was a little gremlin inside the gas tank,
waiting
for her to open the lid, so it could set the vapors on fire with
matches!
But what are the chances of that, after all the matches would be wet,
now
wouldn't they be?) And NO, she was not smoking while talking.
>
> You say it's physically impossible??? I don't think so!!!
> I even make it a point ot leave my Cell inside the car while at the
gas
pump.
>
> We never stop learning about the intricate mysteries of live, now do
we?
>
> P.S. This should not apply to Diesel drivers! So chit-chat away when
you
diesel-up.
>
==
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster(at)flion.com> |
| Subject: | FW: Fwd: This is not a Joke, It is very serious. |
The static electricity issue has nothing to do cell phones. Nothing in
the operation of or possession of a cell phone can cause a static spark.
You can generate a spark by picking up a cell phone, if the phone is at
a different potential than you. If it was laying on the car when you
picked it up and a spark was generated, that probably means that simply
touching the car (with no cell phone present) would also have created a
spark.
Finally, gas does not ignite particularly easily, which is fortunate
because my car and my winter coat did not get along when I lived in the
Great Lakes region; I was always getting zapped when I touched my car.
The conditions inside your engine cylinders is rather specific - too
great or too little a fuel/air mixture and all the spark in the world
won't ignite it. Put a little gas in a tuna can and toss in a match;
chances are the match will go out (I am not endorsing this experiment,
but I've seen it done). Lower a match to the gas instead of tossing it
and it will ignite and burn like an oil lamp, not explosively.
I don't know what you saw on TV, but I am skeptical.
Patrick Kelley
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv6-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv6-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
klwerner(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: RV6-List: FW: Fwd: This is not a Joke, It is very serious.
Cy,
This is - NO - joke at all! It's got nothing to do with the solid
state switches you mentioned, but rather STATIC Electricity.
It happened a couple of times here in the dry climate of the S.W.,
mainly on hot & dry summer days. It is probably not as much of an issue
in area's with high humidity?
The one I remember best was even caught on TV: A young lady was talking
on her Cell, whilst opening her gas cap to fill up.
POOF said the magic dragon, and flames came out of the filler neck. A
little static spark from her petite little hand was all that was needed.
(Unless of course there was a little gremlin inside the gas tank,
waiting for her to open the lid, so it could set the vapors on fire with
matches! But what are the chances of that, after all the matches would
be wet, now wouldn't they be?) And NO, she was not smoking while
talking.
You say it's physically impossible??? I don't think so!!!
I even make it a point ot leave my Cell inside the car while at the gas
pump.
We never stop learning about the intricate mysteries of live, now do we?
P.S. This should not apply to Diesel drivers! So chit-chat away when
you diesel-up.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <klwerner(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FW: Fwd: This is not a Joke, It is very serious. |
I stand corrected about the Cell Phone causing the spark directly, and hereby apologize
to the list for all the idiot drivers that create static discharges of
any kind whilst on the gas pump. Practice proper grounding (one way or the other).
On a sidenote: Perhaps that Ladie's Cell-Phone rang, then her boyfriend dumped
her right there and then over the phone, which caused her to build up such
a rage inside her, that the now furiously steaming Chick caused the air surrounding
her to build up a static charge, which then created the spark that set
her car briefly on fire. They now call her "One HOT Babe". And please do not
archive this W.A.G.
Konrad
P.S. How did this static crap get on the RV6-List in the first place?
----- Original Message -----
From: Phil Smith
To: rv6-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, February 05, 2004 1:57 PM
Subject: RE: RV6-List: FW: Fwd: This is not a Joke, It is very serious.
Guys,
This has been researched thoroughly by my collegues in the forensic
consulting industry. The problem is static electricity after fueling the
vehicle. The explosion occurs when the person removes the gas nozzle and
goes to put the cap back on. The static electricity comes from the
person touching the car when the fumes are present. The window of
opportunity is very small as the proper gas/air mixture is only present
for a few seconds before the mixture becomes too lean as the fuel
evaporates off.
It has been found that this most often occurs with women drivers as they
tend to get back into the car during fueling instead of standing around
like most men and therefore have an opportunity to "recharge" with
static electricity as they enter and exit the car. The cell phone issue
is sensationalism by the news people and is not based on fact, only
coincidence.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Cell phones, static and fueling |
>
>It has been found that this most often occurs with women drivers as they
>tend to get back into the car during fueling instead of standing around
>like most men and therefore have an opportunity to "recharge" with
>static electricity as they enter and exit the car. The cell phone issue
>is sensationalism by the news people and is not based on fact, only
>coincidence.
Or is it that women get in and out of a vehicle and usually have a cell
phone "glued" to their ear? (Gratuitous sexist comment)
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Jim Jewell ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Jim Jewell
Subject: Dynon Compass Module
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/jjewell@telus.net.02.11.2004/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
"Rv8-List" , "Rv7-List" ,
"Rv6-List"
| Subject: | Wire Sizes in the wing |
SUSPICIOUS_RECIPS
Hi Guys,
Just a quick note about something that I've seen in the past month or two
that is a little confusing. I've had no less than at least 6 people ask me
for some AWG10 wire to use in their wings. Seems someone "out there" has
recommened AWG10 or AWG12 for running to the landing lights.
To anyone who is currently wiring your plane, don't fall into the trap that
some people do.....that being "if some is perfect, more must be better" -
with wire sizes, this is just a huge waste of money, weight, resources,
etc.. If the recommened wire is AWG16 or AWG18, there is NO reason to use
an AWG10.
Just a quick FYI, an AWG10 wire running the approximate length of a RVxx
wing, will carry something in the area of 800+ Watts. Who has a landing
light requiring that much power?!?! Heck, an AWG16 wire should carry well
over 180 Watts in that length.
Here's the simple breakdown before adding in resistance per 1K.
AWG10 - 70amps current carrying capacity
AWG12 - 50amps
AWG14 - 40amps
So, if you are one of those people running those huge AWG10 wires to your
wingtips, ask yourselves why?!? Two big reasons NOT to are:
1). Cost--AWG16-18 averages around $.17/ft & AWG10 is around $.50/ft (300%
higher).
2). Weight--AWG16-18 averages .005 lbs/ft, where AWG10 = .03lbs/ft.
Meaning, for an average set of wings at 2 wires x 18' = 36' x 2 wings = 72'
of wire. At AWG16 or 18 the weight would only be about 8oz's total. AWG10
would be over 2 POUNDS!!
Anyway, sorry about the rant...I just thought it might be a good idea to
bring this to the surface. Somehow, somewhere, there is a movement to put
fat wires into the wings, and I don't know why. If you are one of those
people, please enlighten me and the rest of us!
FYI, I do have AWG12 on up, and will stock some AWG10 in the future, but in
all reality, there isn't much need for it.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis
http://www.steinair.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne McMaster" <wmcmaster(at)ipapilot.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Wire Sizes in the wing |
Stein,
If you have time to reply, I have some wiring questions.
I appreciate your comments, My tail is done - except I am waiting to the
fiberglass until later. I have just about completed my RV 7 wings. My
Fuselage is scheduled to arrive the first part of April. I have the time to
work on finishing the wings, so I plan to do as much as I can. I may be
moving this summer, so My completed parts will likely have a home in a
friends hanger. I want to have the bottom skins on my wings and my wingtips
installed if that is the case.
Anyway, My note to you comes from the fact that I am currently trying to
figure out the best way / type / size of wire to run to my wingtips. I
don't want to overdo it, but do want to be sure I pick wire that will work
properly.
I have Bill Dubes LED nav lights. Any ideas what size wires to run for
them. I have ordered the standard tail pos / strobe to run on the same
circuit.
I am planning on 75 watt wingtip mounted halogen landing lights -- however,
I want to wire it as if I have 100w bulbs - so that if I decide that 75w/
tip is not good enough for me it will be a matter of ordering the 100w
bulbs, and swapping the lights out. My dad lives on an unlighted strip, so
I may have some dark takeoffs.
I am planning on installing:
Whelen CP660 strobe power supply - with white wingtip strobes / tail combo
pos/strobe light, and possibly a red strobe (if I can find a low drag place
to put it on the Fuselage.)
VOR ant in both wingtips. What is the recommended wire for them?
Comm ant in both wingtips (one for com, and one for FM radio) The wing tip
comm will be comm 2.
True trak autopilot servo ( standard pos at the aileron belcrank of the
right wing) What is the best type of wire for it?
Heated Piper type pitot tube (just outboard of the left aileron belcrank)
I do plan to do my homework and find some good wiring / electrical system
references, but would love to hear your opinions on the subject.
If you don't have time to respond, I understand.
Thanks in advance.
Wayne McMaster
SDF (Louisville, KY)
RV 7 standard build
wmcmaster(at)ipapilot.org
502-261-9961 h
502-387-1066 c
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
"Rv8-List" ; "Rv7-List" ;
"Rv6-List"
Subject: RV6-List: Wire Sizes in the wing
>
> Hi Guys,
>
> Just a quick note about something that I've seen in the past month or two
> that is a little confusing. I've had no less than at least 6 people ask me
> for some AWG10 wire to use in their wings. Seems someone "out there" has
> recommened AWG10 or AWG12 for running to the landing lights.
>
> To anyone who is currently wiring your plane, don't fall into the trap
that
> some people do.....that being "if some is perfect, more must be better" -
> with wire sizes, this is just a huge waste of money, weight, resources,
> etc.. If the recommened wire is AWG16 or AWG18, there is NO reason to use
> an AWG10.
>
> Just a quick FYI, an AWG10 wire running the approximate length of a RVxx
> wing, will carry something in the area of 800+ Watts. Who has a landing
> light requiring that much power?!?! Heck, an AWG16 wire should carry well
> over 180 Watts in that length.
>
> Here's the simple breakdown before adding in resistance per 1K.
> AWG10 - 70amps current carrying capacity
> AWG12 - 50amps
> AWG14 - 40amps
>
> So, if you are one of those people running those huge AWG10 wires to your
> wingtips, ask yourselves why?!? Two big reasons NOT to are:
>
> 1). Cost--AWG16-18 averages around $.17/ft & AWG10 is around $.50/ft (300%
> higher).
> 2). Weight--AWG16-18 averages .005 lbs/ft, where AWG10 = .03lbs/ft.
> Meaning, for an average set of wings at 2 wires x 18' = 36' x 2 wings 72'
> of wire. At AWG16 or 18 the weight would only be about 8oz's total.
AWG10
> would be over 2 POUNDS!!
>
> Anyway, sorry about the rant...I just thought it might be a good idea to
> bring this to the surface. Somehow, somewhere, there is a movement to put
> fat wires into the wings, and I don't know why. If you are one of those
> people, please enlighten me and the rest of us!
>
> FYI, I do have AWG12 on up, and will stock some AWG10 in the future, but
in
> all reality, there isn't much need for it.
>
> Cheers,
> Stein Bruch
> RV6's, Minneapolis
>
> http://www.steinair.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Jim Cone ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Jim Cone
Subject: Jim Cone's Canopy Installation Instructions
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/jimnbev@olypen.com.02.17.2004/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Butt joint for main wing skins. |
I have used one-piece upper main wing skins but want to butt joint the two
lower skins over a new wider rib flange, as outlined in Frank Justice's
instructions. The standard lap joint for the prepunched skins is secured with
a
double row of rivets spaced 1 1/4". To get an equivalent number of rivets in each
skin/flange joint, I plan to use a single row of rivets to join each skin to
the new flange, but space them 5/8" instead of 1 1/4". I think this will look
neater than four rows at the wider spacing, but will it be OK strengthwise?
Stewart Willoughby, RV 6 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Dugdale" <dugdale(at)voyager.net> |
| Subject: | Whirl Wind Props |
Hello
Anyone got any experience with the Whirl Wind 200RV CS prop?? How's the performance??
A couple of concerns: warranty/TBO seems low & the customer seems
to be validating the design for Whirl Wind?. I am consider one on a RV6 with
the IO360A1A 200HP. I like the idea of saving weight and no restrictions. I
was thinking of the Hartzell with the new profile but it hasn't been approved
yet with this engine.
Any experience, good or bad would be appreciated.
Thanks
Peter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
"Rv8-List" , "Rv9-List" ,
"Rv-List"
| Subject: | Quick Fit Tabs for Ground Blocks |
Hi Guys,
Just a quick update. Awhile back people were looking for the ground block
tabs separate from fuse blocks and pre-made ground blocks.
I now have several hundred in stock. They have 10 tabs, (2 double rows of
5), are the 1/4 faston, with holes for mounting to a brass bar, bulkhead,
etc..
Basically, you can "roll your own" ground blocks now, and it's much cheaper
than buying one already made. I thought about making ground blocks, but it's
easier just to sell the tabs, and let the builder make their own if they
like.
They are listed under "Accessories" on my website. Also, under switches
you'll see some new Vinyl Toggle switch boots in 6 colors. They really dress
up the switches nice!
Last thing.....I now have all the 4 conductor shielded wire in stock for the
Dynon Harnesses, and all harnesses/kits from this point forward will be
delivered with Shielded wire as standard.
Happy building and have a great day.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
http://www.steinair.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
DNA: not not archive
| Subject: | [PLEASE READ] Virus Laden Spam Purports To Be From Matronics... |
Dear Listers,
First let me say that I normally don't condone the sharing of warnings
about Internet viruses on the Matronics Email Lists. I don't want to
start a storm of discussion regarding computer viruses on the Lists, so
please just note the information below and refrain from commenting to
the List. The circumstances I describe below are disturbing enough
that I felt an explanation is necessary. That being said...
There is a new email-bourne virus running rampant on the Internet that
is cleverly disguising itself as legitimate email warning of such
things as:
"your email account is disabled because of unauthorized access"
"Some of our clients complained about the spam (negative e-mail
content) outgoing from your e-mail account"
"Probably, you have been infected by a proxy-relay trojan server. In
order to keep your computer safe, follow the instructions."
"Our main mailing server will be temporary unavailable for next two
days, to continue receiving mail in these days you have to
configure our free auto-forwarding service."
All of these messages include an attachment that you are instructed to
click upon to "Get more information", "clean the virus from your
system", or "check your system for infections".
These enclosures all contain a virus that will infect your system and
propagate even more copies of the original message.
The disturbing part of these messages is that they appear to be coming
from very legitimate addresses and have very legitimate, convincing
dialog. For example, I have received a number of them today that
appear to be from "support(at)matronics.com", "management(at)matronics.com",
"administration(at)matronics.com", and "staff(at)matronics.com".
The text of the messages seems believable enough, and given the forged
source address, seem even more legitimate.
Please be assured that no one at Matronics.com will be sending you
these kinds of messages. If you receive one, it is a spam/virus that
has forged headers and was sent to you from someone other than
Matronics. Delete the message and the attachment promptly. Invest in
a copy of Norton Antivirus and keep the definitions up dated on a daily
basis.
Again, I want to stress that I *DO NOT* want a big discussion of
viruses on the Matronics Email Lists. Please do not reply to this
email with any comments. You may write to me directly at
dralle(at)matronics.com if you wish, but do not include the List.
Since many of these appear to come from matronics.com, I wanted to
assure everyone that Matronics wasn't the real source of these messages.
Let's be careful out there and keep those virus definitions up to date!
Today alone, the Matronics spam filter and virus blocking appliance
has filtered out 11,550 spam messages and 375 viruses! That's just in
an 18 hour period!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rob" <edmist_r(at)bellsouth.net> |
"Rv8-List" , "Rv9-List" ,
"Rv-List"
________________________________________________________________________________
"Rv8-List" , "Rv9-List" ,
"Rv-List"
| From: | George Frost <ghfrost(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Mag impulse assembly |
I need an impulse assembly for a slick magneto, part number M3529.
Anyone have an extra one for sale or can suggest a source? AC Spruce
is out of stock.
George
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Crandell" <rwc000(at)hotmail.com> |
rv8-list(at)matronics.com, rv9-list(at)matronics.com
Can anyone recommend a source for a two port (two transducer) manifold?
Van's sells a three port unit, but I only need two ports. I could cut off
one port on the Van's unit, but would rather not do that.
Thanks Roger Crandell
Get business advice and resources to improve your work life, from bCentral.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel(at)blueskyaviation.net> |
"Rv-List(at)Matronics. Com" ,
"Rv9-List(at)Matronics. Com" ,
"Rv8-List(at)Matronics. Com" ,
, ,
, ,
I am posting this to all the RV lists so if you get duplicates dont be
upset.
It is that time for me at Blue Sky Aviation to add another set of
experienced hands. I am looking for someone with prior building experience,
A&P would be nice, along with private pilot ticket. Must be trustworthy,
hard working, reliable, and a good eye for detail.
If you are or know of someone, please have him or her give me a call or drop
me an email. This is a full time permanent position and is available
immediately.
Sincerely,
Noel Simmons
Blue Sky Aviation, Inc.
Phone & Fax: 406-538-6574
noel(at)blueskyaviation.net
www.blueskyaviation.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Frost <ghfrost(at)earthlink.net> |
Hi Noel,
Thanks for the info.
This sounds like it would it be a good fit for a retired Industrial
Design prof. with numerous ratings, a life long interest and contact
with aviation, and an unfulfilled urge to move west from Ohio but I'm
not quite done with my RV-6. It sounds like a good job for someone.
Good luck finding the right one.
George
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cory Emberson" <bootless(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Santa Maria CA Fly-in (April 30-May 2) |
Hello everyone!
With Matt Dralle's blessing (thank you, Matt!), I'm pleased to post this announcement
for a terrific aviation fly-in weekend. SMXgig (in Santa Maria, CA) has
become the year's largest face-to-face get-together of electronically networked
aviators. We hope you'll plan to attend because we expect this year's gig to
be the best ever.
People come from all over the country (and sometimes overseas) to attend, and most of the sessions qualify for FAA Wings cards. The dates are 4/30-5/2/04 (Friday-Sunday) - it's a lot of fun, and a great chance for pilots from all over to mingle and share aviation stories, ideas, etc. The announcement below contains most of the crucial information, and you can get the rest from the website (www.smxgig.org). If you have any questions at all, just let me know, and thanks!
~~Cory Emberson
KHWD
>>> NOTICE TO AIRMEN! <<<
Announcing the Sixteenth Annual SMXgig
to be held on April 30 - May 2, 2004
at the Radisson on the Santa Maria (CA) Airport (aka SMX)
www.smxgig.org
SMXgig will be April 30 - May 2, 2004, at the Santa Maria Radisson. This year,
our featured speaker after Friday night's dinner will be Rod Machado!
"MACH 2 WITH MACHADO" is the byline Rod Machado has earned for his rapid fire delivery
at his lively safety seminars and keynote speeches. His programs are information-packed,
energetic, and humorous. He has spoken in all fifty of the
United States and in Europe sharing his fresh approach to aviation education.
If you can make it, please do. It's going to be pretty special. More information and the announcement/ registration info is available at www.smxgig.org You may also contact me by email at: cory(at)smxgig.org.
All technical sessions will be held in the Enterprise Ballroom at the SMX Radisson.
Each session will last about an hour. We schedule four tech sessions on Saturday
morning, and four on Sunday morning. Most of the speakers are set (I'm
still firming up a couple of slots - I'm working on a session about Experimentals):
MIKE BUSCH - The Art and Science of Troubleshooting
Your A frequently, that person is you. That's particularly true of problems that
occur only in-flight and/or are intermittent. This session offers methodology
for troubleshooting aimed at aircraft owners who aren't A&Ps.
ED WILLIAMS - GPS - How It Works, and How to Work It
Ed is a nuclear physicist working at Lawrence Livermore Labs. Ed does a
remarkable job of making physics phun!
BRENT BLUE, M.D. - Pilot Medicals: How to Avoid Problems with the FAA
Brent is an AME Advocate, who specializes in helping the tough cases renew their
medicals. He's a former member of EAA's medical advisory committee.
DOUG RITTER - Equipping Yourself To Survive - Personal Survival Gear for Pilots
Doug is a survival evangelist, personally driven to help pilots live through whatever comes next. www.equipped.org
PAUL MILLNER - The Future of Avgas
Paul works with ChevronTexaco, and is right in the middle of the industry developments
regarding our fuel of choice.
MARY DUFFY & UWE LEMKE - Flying in Europe
Mary and Uwe are a Scot and a German who live in the San Francisco Bay Area, but
return "home" often.
As always, each qualifying session will get you a WINGS Safety Session card.
Our Saturday evening event should be a delicious one! At 5:45 p.m., the BFUB (Big Fat Ugly Bus) will arrive at the Santa Maria Radisson to bring us to the Far Western Tavern for dinner in beautiful Guadalupe (www.farwesterntavern.com).
DOLLARS AND CENTS
Just as in previous years, there will be one flat all-encompassing "gig" fee that
covers all events that involve significant out-of-pocket costs for the organizers.
The fee is $160 per person, and will cover:
- Friday afternoon welcome party
- Friday evening dinner banquet
- Saturday and Sunday tech sessions
- Saturday afternoon lunch
- Saturday evening dinner at the Far Western Tavern in Guadalupe
- Meeting rooms and coffee service at the Santa Maria Radisson
- Transportation to (and from) the Far Western Tavern
Lodging at the SMX Radisson will cost $89.00/night for either a single or double
room, which is far below the regular hotel room rate. Be sure you check in as
a SMXgig attendee and get the special rate. We have our definitive preference
listed with the hotel for rampside rooms - early registration can only help,
but of course, the rampside rooms are subject to availability depending on how
many existing guests are in those rooms.
You do not need to register with the hotel - just give me your preferences, and
I will take care of the reservations.
Important: This year, our final rooming lists are due to the hotel on April 11,
2004 (the even of Sun 'n Fun), which will guarantee space and the group rate.
The hotel will accept additional room reservations after that, on a space- and
rate-available basis. They will try their best to accommodate us after that
date, but the hotel is already sold out for the weekend.
The website (www.smxgig.org) has detailed information about the schedule, meals, hotel accommodations, and online registration. If you'd like your own announcement/registration emailed to you, or have any other questions, just let me know. (cory(at)smxgig.org or bootless(at)earthlink.net ).
Thanks, and see you there!
best, Cory Emberson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | A GUIDE TO AIRCRAFT PAINTING & CORROSION CONTROL |
rv7-list(at)matronics.com, rv8-list(at)matronics.com
For helpful information see:
See Nov 03 Archieves:
"A GUIDE TO AIRCRAFT PAINTING & CORROSION
CONTROL"
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Maxwell Bennett" <maxwell33(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Start another project ? |
You builders may be considering another project. after your successful first flights.
I wish to purchase a flying side by side RV with the following description:
RV-6/6A, 7/7A
Lo time since new O-360
IFR instruments and navs
Best workmanship
Paint optional
My own "American Adventure", a pretty Starduster Too open cockpit biplane is gone.
My hangar is empty.
D51, a sod 2000 ft. airstrip, has 20 aircraft based there, but no RV's.
I am convinced that the RV is the best airplane for me and will outclass the Taylorcrafts
and Cessnas.
Contact me directly with details and pics. I promise to take good care of your
beautiful machine.
Max Bennett
Buffalo, NY
maxwell33(at)adelphia.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Brunke" <jwbrunk(at)attglobal.net> |
To all RVators,
June 12th at Boone, Iowa. RV fly-in. See Cleaveland tool's
web site for more details.
Happy building and flying,
John Brunke
N215KC
St. Charles, IL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Williams" <Tramsootru(at)direcway.com> |
| Subject: | Buying an RV Questions... |
rv7-list(at)matronics.com INNOCENT GROUP 0.002278 0.600000
0.6 SUBJ_BUY 'Subject' starts with Buy, Buying
Hey guys-
Well, I've been trying to convince my father we need an RV.. After Oshkosh
last year, we both thought we'd like to have one.. However, we wanted to
build one, just don't really have the time.. So, we'd like to buy one.. So,
a local guy, who had built several RV's and won a few awards at Oshkosh, is
selling his RV6..
So, I'm wondering if you guys could tell me a few hints/tips of things that
are good "buying an RV" questions to ask.. One thing we would like to know,
is there anyway to "stress test" an RV before we buy? I guess we just want
to be safe in the RV..
Any hints, feedback, etc would be greatfully appreciated..
Thanks
Jeff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | yobylf2815(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | rv6a fuselage kit for sale |
Very reluctantly parting with my rv6a fuselage kit (regular, not QB). Crate is
unopened. Price/delivery negotiable. If interested, contact me off list at cpaulson14(at)comcast.net.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Speaking of Beautiful fixed pitched Props... |
| From: | "Rabaut, Chuck" <Chuck.Rabaut(at)fresnosheriff.org> |
"rv4-list(at)matronics. com \(E-mail\)" ,
"rv6-list(at)matronics. com \(E-mail\)" ,
"rv7-list(at)matronics. com \(E-mail\)" ,
"rv8-list(at)matronics. com \(E-mail\)" ,
"rv-list(at)matronics. com \(E-mail\)"
2.6 SUSPICIOUS_RECIPS Similar addresses in recipient list
Hi guys & Gals,
I just received my new Prop from "CloudCars". It looks BEAUTIFUL. This
prop reminds me of the high quality & low price we use to get from Pacesetter
Props. Pacesetter is no longer in business but man did I love my old Pacesetter
prop. The guy who made my new prop is Jay Anderson. He is very knowledgeable
and willing to work with you to get a custom Prop that you will love.
His prices are extremely fair (I got mine for about $500.oo including s your
price may vary depending on what you want) and the delivery time was only about
6 weeks. For a custom made, quality Prop you can't beat that price with a
stick. You can contact Jay at cloudcars99(at)yahoo.com or (325) 356-2810. His
motto/slogan is "Quality Wood Propellers at Reasonable Prices". I'm a satisfied
customer.
**note: I get no discount, nor do I have any financial interest in this
business.** We experimental builders & flyers should support small businesses
that provide quality products & service at reasonable prices. That's why
I'm sharing this hot tip with all the RV folks. If you call him, tell 'em Chuck
says "Hi".
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: CloudCars prop |
| From: | "Rabaut, Chuck" <Chuck.Rabaut(at)fresnosheriff.org> |
"rv6-list(at)matronics. com \(E-mail\)" ,
"rv7-list(at)matronics. com \(E-mail\)" ,
"rv8-list(at)matronics. com \(E-mail\)" ,
"rv-list(at)matronics. com \(E-mail\)"
2.6 SUSPICIOUS_RECIPS Similar addresses in recipient list
Chris,
I agree whole heartedly about props being a critical component on a aircraft.
I've been flyin' since 1976 (all sorts of aircraft) and I've been fortunate
enough not to have ever had a prop related in-flight problem (though I have
experienced "the joy" of several engine out/dead stick landings, but like
any thrilling story, those take awhile to tell).
What I have learned is that every business starts out as a small "garage
business", as you referred to them. Even IBM started in a garage in Menlo Park,
Ca. The small businesses are the real innovators, they are the ones who
bring the best quality and ideas forward at a "competitive" price; because they
have to just to survive. The BIG guys usually just kick back and rely on their
name. And... you PAY alot of extra $$$ for their name too. I am not knocking
the quality of Sensenich or other big names. But I know that there are
high quality, reasonably priced competitors that I would rather support. Heck,
if I want a Sensenich label on my prop, Sensenich sells their name stickers
in various catalogues too.
When I ordered my prop from Jay at CloudCars, I knew exactly what I wanted.
However Jay also gave me valuable, knowledgeable advice. Now that I have
my prop, Jay is insisting that I hook it up and try it/fly it to see if it performs
as I expected it to. Then I send it back for final backing and edge protection,
and if I need any pitch or other adjustments he'll do that too. Now
I will give updates to the RV-list(s) as I go, but it sure is re-assuring that
CloudCars is that interested in making certain I am (as Jay has said) "Completely
Satisfied" with my new prop.
PaceSetter was not a large company, and unfortunately they are no longer
in the business (though I know the guy still makes props on the side). But
PaceSetter's quality, reliability and name carried a lot of respect from everyone
that I've ever spoken with who has flown on their props. It is very unfortunate
that it took several years for their name and word of their quality to
spread; I think that was a major part of their downfall. I believe CloudCars
is on par with the quality and hence the reliability, of PaceSetter and the
BIG named manufactures in the production of their props. I hazard to guess
that if/when CloudCars gets well known, their prices will certainly rise as the
demand rises for their skilled craftsmanship. But the choice is always up
to the consumer. By the way, ask Jay if he builds three (3) bladed props, I just
got an inquiry about that. Take care, and take to the Air,
Chuck
p.s. Chris I hope you don't mind, I'm gonna CC a copy to the RV-list(s) because
I think this is a valid discussion topic for experimental builders.
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Boultinghouse [mailto:sonexbuilder(at)yahoo.com]
Subject: CloudCars prop
Hi Chuck,
I saw your post on the RV list about the prop you got
from Jay at CloudCars. I dropped him a note about a
prop for my Jabiru 3300/Sonex combo, and received a
prompt reply (and a picture). His prices are
reasonable too (about $250 less than a comparable
Sensenich wood prop). My problem is that my wife is
uncomfortable with the idea of me buying something as
critical as a prop from a "garage business". I was
hoping you'd be able to offer some insight into the
craftmanship and perceived design of the prop. Have
you flown yours yet?
I'm not averted to spending the money for a Sensenich
(or Prince) but I do like to save a buck and help the
little guy as long as I'm not risking my butt to do
so!
Thanks for your thoughts.
=====
Best Regards,
Chris Boultinghouse
Austin, TX
Sonex N260SX (reserved)
http://sonex260.wheelsup.org
__________________________________
http://messenger.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Russell Johnson <entec1(at)pld.com> |
| Subject: | You`ve got 1 VoiceMessage! |
Dear Customer!
You`ve got 1 VoiceMessage from voicemessage.com website!
You can listen your Virtual VoiceMessage at the following link:
http://virt.voicemessage.com/index.listen.php2=35affv
or by clicking the attached link.
Send VoiceMessage! Try our new virtual VoiceMessage Empire!
Best regards: SNAF.Team (R).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MnwPeeps(at)aol.com |
Would like to hear from any RV-6 owner wanting to sell. Looking for a "nice"
one - good paint, avionics, etc. I've owned an SJN-5B and two Yak-52-s - time
to move up!
Mike at mnwpeeps(at)aol.com, or 978-468-3058. Boston area.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <tgreene5(at)cinci.rr.com> |
Build your own!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!11
----- Original Message -----
From: <MnwPeeps(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV6-List: Hot to buy!
>
> Would like to hear from any RV-6 owner wanting to sell. Looking for a
"nice"
> one - good paint, avionics, etc. I've owned an SJN-5B and two Yak-52-s -
time
> to move up!
> Mike at mnwpeeps(at)aol.com, or 978-468-3058. Boston area.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MnwPeeps(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 6/21/04 8:30:20 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
tgreene5(at)cinci.rr.com writes:
<< Build your own!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!11 >>
Ah, an inventive idea I might never have thought of. But, Rivetbreath, I
gotta tell ya
I'm a klultz with tools, can't put my kids' Xmas toys together, and would
never fly or drive ANYthing I've put together. (I AM a superb stick 'n' rudder
pilot, however.....jet jockey in the USN, and an adroitly capable airline pilot
- retired. Go figure.)
Additionally, at an average of two hours per day (which would be tough for me
to maintain), at 2200 hours to build, that works out to about three years, by
which time I could well have gone tits up. But thanks for the constructive
suggestion - it was a mid-blower!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <tgreene5(at)cinci.rr.com> |
Maybe a C-172 or C-182?
----- Original Message -----
From: <MnwPeeps(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV6-List: Hot to buy!
>
> In a message dated 6/21/04 8:30:20 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> tgreene5(at)cinci.rr.com writes:
>
> << Build your own!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!11 >>
>
> Ah, an inventive idea I might never have thought of. But, Rivetbreath, I
> gotta tell ya
> I'm a klultz with tools, can't put my kids' Xmas toys together, and would
> never fly or drive ANYthing I've put together. (I AM a superb stick 'n'
rudder
> pilot, however.....jet jockey in the USN, and an adroitly capable airline
pilot
> - retired. Go figure.)
>
> Additionally, at an average of two hours per day (which would be tough for
me
> to maintain), at 2200 hours to build, that works out to about three years,
by
> which time I could well have gone tits up. But thanks for the constructive
> suggestion - it was a mid-blower!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | eregensburg(at)triad.rr.com |
| Subject: | RV6A 4sale pics 1 |
----- Original Message -----
From: tgreene5(at)cinci.rr.com
Date: Tuesday, June 22, 2004 9:00 pm
Subject: Re: RV6-List: Hot to buy!
>
> Maybe a C-172 or C-182?
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <MnwPeeps(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV6-List: Hot to buy!
>
>
> >
> > In a message dated 6/21/04 8:30:20 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> > tgreene5(at)cinci.rr.com writes:
> >
> > << Build your own!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!11 >>
> >
> > Ah, an inventive idea I might never have thought of. But,
> Rivetbreath, I
> > gotta tell ya
> > I'm a klultz with tools, can't put my kids' Xmas toys together,
> and would
> > never fly or drive ANYthing I've put together. (I AM a superb
> stick 'n'
> rudder
> > pilot, however.....jet jockey in the USN, and an adroitly
> capable airline
> pilot
> > - retired. Go figure.)
> >
> > Additionally, at an average of two hours per day (which would be
> tough for
> me
> > to maintain), at 2200 hours to build, that works out to about
> three years,
> by
> > which time I could well have gone tits up. But thanks for the
> constructive> suggestion - it was a mid-blower!
> >
> >
>
>
> _-
> _-
> _-
> _-
> ========================================================================
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | eregensburg(at)triad.rr.com |
| Subject: | RV6A 4sale pics 2 |
pics 2
----- Original Message -----
From: tgreene5(at)cinci.rr.com
Date: Tuesday, June 22, 2004 9:00 pm
Subject: Re: RV6-List: Hot to buy!
>
> Maybe a C-172 or C-182?
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <MnwPeeps(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV6-List: Hot to buy!
>
>
> >
> > In a message dated 6/21/04 8:30:20 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> > tgreene5(at)cinci.rr.com writes:
> >
> > << Build your own!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!11 >>
> >
> > Ah, an inventive idea I might never have thought of. But,
> Rivetbreath, I
> > gotta tell ya
> > I'm a klultz with tools, can't put my kids' Xmas toys together,
> and would
> > never fly or drive ANYthing I've put together. (I AM a superb
> stick 'n'
> rudder
> > pilot, however.....jet jockey in the USN, and an adroitly
> capable airline
> pilot
> > - retired. Go figure.)
> >
> > Additionally, at an average of two hours per day (which would be
> tough for
> me
> > to maintain), at 2200 hours to build, that works out to about
> three years,
> by
> > which time I could well have gone tits up. But thanks for the
> constructive> suggestion - it was a mid-blower!
> >
> >
>
>
> _-
> _-
> _-
> _-
> ========================================================================
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | eregensburg(at)triad.rr.com |
| Subject: | RV6A 4sale pics 3 |
RV6A 4sale pics 3
----- Original Message -----
From: tgreene5(at)cinci.rr.com
Date: Tuesday, June 22, 2004 9:00 pm
Subject: Re: RV6-List: Hot to buy!
>
> Maybe a C-172 or C-182?
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <MnwPeeps(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV6-List: Hot to buy!
>
>
> >
> > In a message dated 6/21/04 8:30:20 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> > tgreene5(at)cinci.rr.com writes:
> >
> > << Build your own!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!11 >>
> >
> > Ah, an inventive idea I might never have thought of. But,
> Rivetbreath, I
> > gotta tell ya
> > I'm a klultz with tools, can't put my kids' Xmas toys together,
> and would
> > never fly or drive ANYthing I've put together. (I AM a superb
> stick 'n'
> rudder
> > pilot, however.....jet jockey in the USN, and an adroitly
> capable airline
> pilot
> > - retired. Go figure.)
> >
> > Additionally, at an average of two hours per day (which would be
> tough for
> me
> > to maintain), at 2200 hours to build, that works out to about
> three years,
> by
> > which time I could well have gone tits up. But thanks for the
> constructive> suggestion - it was a mid-blower!
> >
> >
>
>
> _-
> _-
> _-
> _-
> ========================================================================
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A 4sale pics 1 |
All pictures are stripped before being send out to the list.
----- Original Message -----
From: <eregensburg(at)triad.rr.com>
Subject: RV6-List: RV6A 4sale pics 1
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: tgreene5(at)cinci.rr.com
> Date: Tuesday, June 22, 2004 9:00 pm
> Subject: Re: RV6-List: Hot to buy!
>
> >
> > Maybe a C-172 or C-182?
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <MnwPeeps(at)aol.com>
> > To:
> > Subject: Re: RV6-List: Hot to buy!
> >
> >
> > >
> > > In a message dated 6/21/04 8:30:20 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> > > tgreene5(at)cinci.rr.com writes:
> > >
> > > << Build your own!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!11 >>
> > >
> > > Ah, an inventive idea I might never have thought of. But,
> > Rivetbreath, I
> > > gotta tell ya
> > > I'm a klultz with tools, can't put my kids' Xmas toys together,
> > and would
> > > never fly or drive ANYthing I've put together. (I AM a superb
> > stick 'n'
> > rudder
> > > pilot, however.....jet jockey in the USN, and an adroitly
> > capable airline
> > pilot
> > > - retired. Go figure.)
> > >
> > > Additionally, at an average of two hours per day (which would be
> > tough for
> > me
> > > to maintain), at 2200 hours to build, that works out to about
> > three years,
> > by
> > > which time I could well have gone tits up. But thanks for the
> > constructive> suggestion - it was a mid-blower!
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > _-
> > _-
> > _-
> > _-
> > ========================================================================
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Howard Walrath <der_jagdflieger(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Operating Efficiently Lean Of Peak |
The recent rv-list posts on EI versus magnetoes
for LOP operation was interesting and informative.
Several posters pointed out that a matched set of
injectors was key to efficient operation Lean Of Peak.
The Van's Airforce World Wide Wing homepage
has an article on this subject I wrote that was in EAA Chapter 168's newsletter.
The url for the
Van's Airforce World Wide Wing homepage
homepage is www.vansairforce.net . The
"THE RV NEWS" column on the homepage
discusses the article andcontains a link to the
entire issue.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Warren Gretz <warrengretz(at)gretzaero.com> |
| Subject: | Gretz Aero Heated Pitot Tubes and Mounting Brackets |
Hello Builders,
We have been off of this list for some time, but wanted to let you know we are
still making and selling parts for your aircraft. We have been in the process
of moving our operation from Colorado to Idaho for the past several months. With
luck, we should be settled into our new location in Idaho by the end of the
first week of August.
Meanwhile, our Heated Pitot Tube Mounting Bracket Kits are still very popular and
we been keeping very busy producing them. We do want to let everyone know that
we will need to increase our prices slightly, effective the 1st of August.
This increse is due to our raw material costs going up and also shipping charges
that have been going up over the past two years. We have tried to keep from
raising prices as long as we can, but now need to do so. Sorry.
GOOD NEWS is that we are getting very close to having our NEWEST Gretz Aero designed
product available! It is the GA-1000. This is a heated pitot tube that is
a totaly new design. It is completely different than any pitot before.
The Gretz Aero heated pitot tube is called the GA-1000 and will look nearly
like the PH502-12CR pitot tube except the GA-1000 will be black in color, and it
will be lighter in weight than any other heated pitot tube on the market. The
GA-1000 will be what we are calling a "smart" pitot tube. It
will give the pilot feedback as to its operation on the panel. It will also
be very energy conserative and be excellent installed in an aircraft with a
small altanator in the electrical system. The only bad part is, it is not
available yet. We plan on having it available very soon, if production does
not throw us a problem. It has taken us MUCH MUCH longer to get this project
done than we ever dreamed it would. The TARGET price on the GA-1000 is +/- $325
depending upon final production costs. This price will include shipping charges
in the US.
There are a number of builders that are purchasing our mounting bracket kit,
which was designed for the PH502-12CR pitot, (which has been available for
years), this same bracket kit will also fit the new GA-1000. Once the mounting
bracket is installed in your aircraft, the GA-1000 pitot tube can be installed
at a later date when it is available. Other pitot tubes that are now available,
will also fit into the same mounting bracket as well as the GA-1000.
We will make as big a splash as we can on our website, http://www.gretzaero.com , and this List, when the new Gretz Aero GA-1000 heated pitot tube product is available. There will be a page on the Gretz Aero website that will cover this product in great detail.
I hope this information helps you.
Your can place orders with Gretz Aero on the gretzaero.com website, print out the
printable order form on the order page of the website and mail, or call the
phone numbers below.
If you want to reply to us about this message posting, please do so directly to
my e-mail address below and not on the LIST.
Good Building to you!
Warren Gretz
Gretz Aero
15405 Bates Creek Rd.
Oreana, ID 83650
warrengretz(at)gretzaero.com
http://www.gretzaero.com
720-308-0010
208-834-2312
Warren Gretz
Gretz Aero
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Comeaux" <mcomeaux(at)bendnet.com> |
| Subject: | Calhoun/Accident |
Anyone on list know what happened to Ron Calhoun / RV6 Accident / Texas Area
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "steve" <pacer20(at)alltel.net> |
0.3 SUBJ_BUY Subject line starts with Buy or Buying
Guys I am new to the group. I need help! I am looking for a Rv 6 160hp or
180 Slider, IFR. I have worn out the phone, my printer, and have just driven
700 miles to look at one that (being kind) look like I might have been the
builder).
I had one located and thought I had it tied up but at the last minute the
owner sold it to a local (Fla).
If any one has any info on a 6 other than in TAP, Controller, Dough's or
Barnstormer please let me know.
I am located on Miller Airpark (NC30) gray hanger on the right landing north
have restroom and cold drinks in the frig DROP IN ANY TIME.
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Grahame Go <rv6(at)shaw.ca> |
Do you have a budget in mind ... I will keep an eye out for you here in BC
----- Original Message -----
From: "steve" <pacer20(at)alltel.net>
Subject: RV6-List: BUYING
>
> Guys I am new to the group. I need help! I am looking for a Rv 6 160hp or
> 180 Slider, IFR. I have worn out the phone, my printer, and have just
driven
> 700 miles to look at one that (being kind) look like I might have been the
> builder).
>
> I had one located and thought I had it tied up but at the last minute the
> owner sold it to a local (Fla).
>
> If any one has any info on a 6 other than in TAP, Controller, Dough's or
> Barnstormer please let me know.
>
> I am located on Miller Airpark (NC30) gray hanger on the right landing
north
> have restroom and cold drinks in the frig DROP IN ANY TIME.
>
>
> Steve
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MnwPeeps(at)aol.com |
Subject(at)matronics.com, line(at)matronics.com, starts(at)matronics.com,
with(at)matronics.com, Buy(at)matronics.com, or(at)matronics.com,
Buying(at)matronics.com
Another guy lookin' round the country.
I got stiffed by the same guy (in Florida) as Steve - one day before I was to
arrive to see/fly it on a one-day round-trip from Boston. Nice.
My budget would be up to 65K, for the right a/c - hoping for something closer
to 55-60. I prefer a larger engine, and as much IFR as possible at that price
level. Thank you. Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
didn't sent it, don't open it.
-----Original Message-----
From: rv6-list(at)matronics.com [mailto:rv6-list(at)matronics.com]
Subject: you?
picture?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | "Need Extra Hands" in building a RV-8A QB - Santa Monica, Calif |
rv8-list(at)matronics.com, rv9-list(at)matronics.com, rv-list(at)matronics.com
Greetings:
Any Builders who live in the Santa Monica, Calif area.
Building a RV-8A QB in my garage 5 minutes from Santa
Monica Airport and "need extra hands". Willing to
help somebody with their project TOO. My wife does
not want to get involved and the local EAA Chapter is
all composite builders. At the rate I am making
progress it will take me 5 life times to complete
!!!!!
Thanks,
Garey Wittich (310) 392-1682
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com> |
, ,
,
1.7 SUSPICIOUS_RECIPS Similar addresses in recipient list
Hi Guys,
I was almost convinced the Garmin GNS 430 hooked to a Dynon and a
Digitrack A/P was the almost perfect base to a light weight IFR setup
for an RV-7, then I see that BMA has come out with the EFIS Lite G3
which has the GPS, and an electronic version of the VOR/GS receiver that
can be driven by an SL30 Navcom. Apparently this system drives a BMA 2
axis autopilot.
Looking at all of this gives me aN IFR panel for about $11k including
the transponder and 2 axis A/P. The similar setup using the GNS 430
comes in at about $14.5K with single axis A/P.
Anyone have any experience or thoughts on this set up?
I haven't started IFR training yet so I'm fumbling a little on all the
requirements...Not sure about the "indicator lights" (marker beacon?)
that are apparently built into the Nav head that the GNS 430 would
drive.
Frank
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harry E. Hawkins" <hawkbud(at)speednetllc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: "Need Extra Hands" in building a RV-8A QB - Santa Monica, |
Calif
If I were closer I'd help. Michigan is a long way. Do something
everyday... no matter what. You will be amazed at your progress. My Son
Jeff built an RV-8 in about five years... not a quick build. He also kept
his job.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Garey Wittich" <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com>
; ;
;
Subject: RV6-List: "Need Extra Hands" in building a RV-8A QB - Santa Monica,
Calif
>
> Greetings:
>
> Any Builders who live in the Santa Monica, Calif area.
> Building a RV-8A QB in my garage 5 minutes from Santa
> Monica Airport and "need extra hands". Willing to
> help somebody with their project TOO. My wife does
> not want to get involved and the local EAA Chapter is
> all composite builders. At the rate I am making
> progress it will take me 5 life times to complete
> !!!!!
>
> Thanks,
> Garey Wittich (310) 392-1682
>
>
> __________________________________
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CharlesRV6(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: "Need Extra Hands" in building a RV-8A QB - Santa Monica, |
Calif
Great advice. It took me 7 years thru two major illnesses. It was great
therapy. JUst think, there's really no rush is there?
________________________________________________________________________________
rv7-list(at)matronics.com, rv10-list(at)matronics.com, rv8-list(at)matronics.com,
rv3-list(at)matronics.com, rv4-list(at)matronics.com
| From: | Richard Scott <rscott(at)cascadeaccess.com> |
| Subject: | Van's Homecoming-- Where to eat |
1.70 SUSPICIOUS_RECIPS Similar addresses in recipient list
Scrumptous breakfast both Saturday & Sunday will be served right at
Van's--pancakes, eggs, ham, sausage, bacon, coffee & orange juice. And
lunch on Saturday, burgers, corn on the cob.
Served by EAA Chapter 902. Don't miss out!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Land Shorter <landshorter2(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | New product announcement: affordable VG's |
piper-list(at)matronics.com, pitts-list(at)matronics.com,
rocket-list(at)matronics.com, rv-list(at)matronics.com, rv3-list(at)matronics.com,
rv4-list(at)matronics.com, rv6-list(at)matronics.com,
rv7-list(at)matronics.com.1.00.SORTED_RECIPS.Recipient.list.is.sorted.by.address
Hey folks,
I double checked and Matt Dralle's earlier post says it's OK to post about new
aviation products as long as the message doesn't come off as having a "flavor"
of "traditional spam". Don't worry I'm not going to try to sell you anything
that supposedly makes any of your body parts larger (or smaller) and this product
is directly aviation related :) I'm just an airplane builder, owner, pilot,
and aviation nut who wants to tell you where you can find more information about
a great new product.
I've been selling kits of vortex generators (VG's) for only $95 and my customers are telling me they really like the performance gains they're seeing. VG's are great for reducing stall speeds and allow you to land slower, shorter, and safer. I invite you to check out my site at www.landshorter.com and see what you think. My VG's can be quickly installed for testing using removable double-stick tape and come with a 100% money-back guarantee so why not try them out on your plane? You'll be really glad you did :)
Thanks and let's keep 'em flying!
Joa Harrison
The VG Guy
www.landshorter.com
1-877-272-1414 (toll free)
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Bob Olds ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Bob Olds
Subject: Vortex generators on RV-4
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/Oldsfolks@aol.com.09.11.2004/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harry E. Hawkins" <hawkbud(at)speednetllc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 10/05/04 |
please unsubscribe
----- Original Message -----
From: "RV6-List Digest Server" <rv6-list-digest(at)matronics.com>
Subject: RV6-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 10/05/04
> *
>
> ==================================================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> ==================================================
>
> Today's complete RV6-List Digest can also be found in either of the
> two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
> in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
> and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
> of the RV6-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
> such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
> HTML Version:
>
>
>
> Text Version:
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> http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv6-list/Digest.RV6-List.2004-10-05.txt
>
>
> ================================================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> ================================================
>
>
> RV6-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Tue 10/05/04: 0
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Neal George ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Neal George
Subject: 110v Hobbs Meter
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/Neal.George@MAXWELL.AF.MIL.10.23.2004/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
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Email the information above and your files and photos to:
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Dugdale" <dugdale(at)voyager.net> |
Hello
I have a -6 with the 200HP I0360A1A flying with a wooden prop (w/ext) and a
throttle body air inlet modeled off the -8 demonstrator (Straight air flow into
the throttle body which I did a wet layup). I plan on a C/S prop over the
winter which means I need to shorten the T.B. inlet due to not needing the prop
extension. I was looking at Oshkosh at some of the "slot" style inlet just
below the spinner. Looks to be less drag.
Please reply if you have done this, or know someone who has? Looks like a
wet layup?
Thanks
Peter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Mcmahon" <rv6(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Air inlet mods |
Peter
Does this help any!!.have 0360 A1A carb
John McMahon (Painting)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Dugdale" <dugdale(at)voyager.net>
Subject: RV6-List: Air inlet mods
>
> Hello
>
> I have a -6 with the 200HP I0360A1A flying with a wooden prop (w/ext)
and a throttle body air inlet modeled off the -8 demonstrator (Straight air
flow into the throttle body which I did a wet layup). I plan on a C/S prop
over the winter which means I need to shorten the T.B. inlet due to not
needing the prop extension. I was looking at Oshkosh at some of the "slot"
style inlet just below the spinner. Looks to be less drag.
> Please reply if you have done this, or know someone who has? Looks
like a wet layup?
>
> Thanks
>
> Peter
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Keith T Uhls ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Keith T Uhls
Lists: RV-List,RV6-List,RV7-List,RV9-List
Subject: RV-7 with GRT EFIS and Dynon
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/keithuhls@juno.com.11.14.2004/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
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following information along with your email message and files:
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Email the information above and your files and photos to:
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Aileron trim springs |
Fellow listers,
Does anyone know if the RV8 manual trim kit springs are the same as the RV6 manual
trim kit springs.!?
I bought the -8 set to get the benefit of some of the parts and the instructions.
I may need to get the -6 set to get the correct springs though...I think the
-8 springs are too heavy.
Anyone with a set of -6 manual aileron trim instructions - I would appreciate a
set of scans....
Thanks,
Ralph Capen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Williams <Tramsootru(at)direcway.com> |
Hey guys-
My father and I finallyu picked up a 6 and are loving it..
However, there are a few things we want to change.. The airplane currently
has one of the "portable" intercom systems.. We're looking for something
decent, 2 place with a music input..
So I was curious as to what you guys were using? We've been browsing the
Aircraft Spruce catalog but are still unsure which one to grab..
Thanks guys!
Jeff
N314L
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ronlee(at)pcisys.net |
Add to your list the PS Engineering PM3000. I am using the 2000 and am
happy with it. The 3000 is apparently better.
Ron
Lee
---------------------------------------------
This message was sent using Endymion MailMan.
http://www.endymion.com/products/mailman/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Williams <Tramsootru(at)direcway.com> |
Actually, the PM3000 is one we have been looking at very closely..
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Subject: Re: RV6-List: Intercom's
>
> Add to your list the PS Engineering PM3000. I am using the 2000 and am
> happy with it. The 3000 is apparently better.
>
> Ron
> Lee
>
> ---------------------------------------------
> This message was sent using Endymion MailMan.
> http://www.endymion.com/products/mailman/
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Kosco" <hooks75(at)msn.com> |
Jeff,
Consider the PMA 1000II. Easy to install and performance is excellent, worth the
money (has music input).
Mark Kosco
N641RM
RV-6
----- Original Message -----
From: Jeff Williams
Subject: RV6-List: Intercom's
Hey guys-
My father and I finallyu picked up a 6 and are loving it..
However, there are a few things we want to change.. The airplane currently
has one of the "portable" intercom systems.. We're looking for something
decent, 2 place with a music input..
So I was curious as to what you guys were using? We've been browsing the
Aircraft Spruce catalog but are still unsure which one to grab..
Thanks guys!
Jeff
N314L
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Philippjw54(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 11/14/04 |
That sure is a good looking RV6. Nice job. I'm building a 4 and hope to
share some photos soon. Phil Wallace Newton MA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | O-320 airbox specifically the air filter. |
I just got my RV6A and have 2 problems I need help with. !- scratchy noise
on rec side of the Kx-125, xmit is ok. I pulled the cowel (not easy) and
there is no filter on the alternator, could that be the problem? (both batty
and field wirs are sheilded) 2- the K&N air filter needs to be changed, I
havent found a replacement as no-one has been able to find one or cross it
to another brand. (AO64A6) Vans shows E3260 replacement, but I would like to
find one local Atlanta and get the plane back together today. also has
anyone come up with a better airbox? Getting to the filter is like breaking
into Ft Knox. Charlie Heathco
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "son hoang" <son(at)hoangs.com> |
| Subject: | Re: O-320 airbox specifically the air filter. |
In my opinion
the alternator noise is a high pitch, constant tone so it's unlikely your
problem comes from there. I would check the ground of the radio, the
insulation of the jacks
Son Hoang RV6A flying 100 hrs
----- Original Message -----
From: +ACI-Charles Heathco+ACI- +ADw-cheathco+AEA-comcast.net+AD4-
Subject: RV6-List: O-320 airbox specifically the air filter.
+AD4- --+AD4- RV6-List message posted by: +ACI-Charles Heathco+ACI- +ADw-cheathco+AEA-comcast.net+AD4-
+AD4-
+AD4- I just got my RV6A and have 2 problems I need help with. +ACE-- scratchy
noise
+AD4- on rec side of the Kx-125, xmit is ok. I pulled the cowel (not easy) and
+AD4- there is no filter on the alternator, could that be the problem? (both
batty
+AD4- and field wirs are sheilded) 2- the K+ACY-N air filter needs to be changed,
I
+AD4- havent found a replacement as no-one has been able to find one or cross it
+AD4- to another brand. (AO64A6) Vans shows E3260 replacement, but I would like
to
+AD4- find one local Atlanta and get the plane back together today. also has
+AD4- anyone come up with a better airbox? Getting to the filter is like
breaking
+AD4- into Ft Knox. Charlie Heathco
+AD4-
+AD4-
+AD4- +AF8--+AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9-
+AD4- +AF8--+AD0-
+AD4- +AF8--+AD0- -- Please Support Your Lists This Month --
+AD4- +AF8--+AD0- (And Get Some AWESOME FREE Gifts+ACE-)
+AD4- +AF8--+AD0-
+AD4- +AF8--+AD0- November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Click on the
+AD4- +AF8--+AD0- Contribution link below to find out more about this
+AD4- +AF8--+AD0- year's Terrific Free Incentive Gifts provided by the
+AD4- +AF8--+AD0- The Builder's Bookstore www.buildersbooks.com+ACE-
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+AD4- +AF8--+AD0- - The RV6-List Email Forum -
+AD4- +AF8--+AD0- This forum is sponsored entirely through the Contributions
+AD4- +AF8--+AD0- of List members. You'll never see banner ads or any other
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+AD4-
+AD4-
+AD4-
+AD4-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: O-320 airbox specifically the air filter. |
Yes, not the Alt. I put on filter and made no diff, It is a buzing sound
that speeds up and slows down with engine speed. I will go over grounds in
the morn. Tnx, charlie
----- Original Message -----
From: "son hoang" <son(at)hoangs.com>
Subject: Re: RV6-List: O-320 airbox specifically the air filter.
>
> In my opinion
> the alternator noise is a high pitch, constant tone so it's unlikely your
> problem comes from there. I would check the ground of the radio, the
> insulation of the jacks
> Son Hoang RV6A flying 100 hrs
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: +ACI-Charles Heathco+ACI- +ADw-cheathco+AEA-comcast.net+AD4-
> To: +ADw-RV6-List+AEA-matronics.com+AD4-
> Subject: RV6-List: O-320 airbox specifically the air filter.
>
>
> +AD4- --+AD4- RV6-List message posted by: +ACI-Charles Heathco+ACI-
> +ADw-cheathco+AEA-comcast.net+AD4-
> +AD4-
> +AD4- I just got my RV6A and have 2 problems I need help with. +ACE--
> scratchy
> noise
> +AD4- on rec side of the Kx-125, xmit is ok. I pulled the cowel (not
> easy) and
> +AD4- there is no filter on the alternator, could that be the problem?
> (both
> batty
> +AD4- and field wirs are sheilded) 2- the K+ACY-N air filter needs to be
> changed, I
> +AD4- havent found a replacement as no-one has been able to find one or
> cross it
> +AD4- to another brand. (AO64A6) Vans shows E3260 replacement, but I would
> like
> to
> +AD4- find one local Atlanta and get the plane back together today. also
> has
> +AD4- anyone come up with a better airbox? Getting to the filter is like
> breaking
> +AD4- into Ft Knox. Charlie Heathco
> +AD4-
> +AD4-
> +AD4-
> +AF8--+AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9-
> +AD4- +AF8--+AD0-
> +AD4- +AF8--+AD0- -- Please Support Your Lists This Month --
> +AD4- +AF8--+AD0- (And Get Some AWESOME FREE Gifts+ACE-)
> +AD4- +AF8--+AD0-
> +AD4- +AF8--+AD0- November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Click on the
> +AD4- +AF8--+AD0- Contribution link below to find out more about this
> +AD4- +AF8--+AD0- year's Terrific Free Incentive Gifts provided by the
> +AD4- +AF8--+AD0- The Builder's Bookstore www.buildersbooks.com+ACE-
> +AD4- +AF8--+AD0-
> +AD4- +AF8--+AD0- List Contribution Web Site
> +AD4- +AF8--+AD0-
> +AD4- +AF8--+AD0- http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> +AD4- +AF8--+AD0-
> +AD4- +AF8--+AD0- Thank you for your generous support+ACE-
> +AD4- +AF8--+AD0- -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> +AD4- +AF8--+AD0-
> +AD4-
> +AF8--+AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9-
> +AD4- +AF8--+AD0- - The RV6-List Email Forum -
> +AD4- +AF8--+AD0- This forum is sponsored entirely through the
> Contributions
> +AD4- +AF8--+AD0- of List members. You'll never see banner ads or any
> other
> +AD4-
> +AF8--+AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9-
> +AD4- +AF8--+AD0- List Related Information
> +AD4- +AF8--+AD0- Post Message: rv6-list+AEA-matronics.com
> +AD4- +AF8--+AD0- UN/SUBSCRIBE: http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> +AD4- +AF8--+AD0- List FAQ:
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV6-List.htm
> +AD4- +AF8--+AD0- Search Engine: http://www.matronics.com/search
> +AD4- +AF8--+AD0- 7-Day Browse:
> +AD4- +AF8--+AD0- Browse Digests:
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> +AD4- +AF8--+AD0- Photo Share: http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> +AD4- +AF8--+AD0- List Specific: http://www.matronics.com/rv6-list
> +AD4- +AF8--+AD0- Other Lists: http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> +AD4- +AF8--+AD0- Contributions: http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> +AD4-
> +AF8--+AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9-
> +AD4-
> +AD4-
> +AD4-
> +AD4-
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: O-320 airbox specifically the air filter. |
FYI - The K&N Filters are guaranteed for one million miles if used on a car. In other words they don't need replaced. Clean them and use filter oil per K&N (www.kandn.com). Your mileage may vary ;)
Kelly
6A finish kit
>
> From: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net>
> Date: 2004/11/17 Wed PM 08:29:53 EST
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV6-List: O-320 airbox specifically the air filter.
>
>
> Yes, not the Alt. I put on filter and made no diff, It is a buzing sound
> that speeds up and slows down with engine speed. I will go over grounds in
> the morn. Tnx, charlie
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "son hoang" <son(at)hoangs.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV6-List: O-320 airbox specifically the air filter.
>
>
> >
> > In my opinion
> > the alternator noise is a high pitch, constant tone so it's unlikely your
> > problem comes from there. I would check the ground of the radio, the
> > insulation of the jacks
> > Son Hoang RV6A flying 100 hrs
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: +ACI-Charles Heathco+ACI- +ADw-cheathco+AEA-comcast.net+AD4-
> > To: +ADw-RV6-List+AEA-matronics.com+AD4-
> > Subject: RV6-List: O-320 airbox specifically the air filter.
> >
> >
> > +AD4- --+AD4- RV6-List message posted by: +ACI-Charles Heathco+ACI-
> > +ADw-cheathco+AEA-comcast.net+AD4-
> > +AD4-
> > +AD4- I just got my RV6A and have 2 problems I need help with. +ACE--
> > scratchy
> > noise
> > +AD4- on rec side of the Kx-125, xmit is ok. I pulled the cowel (not
> > easy) and
> > +AD4- there is no filter on the alternator, could that be the problem?
> > (both
> > batty
> > +AD4- and field wirs are sheilded) 2- the K+ACY-N air filter needs to be
> > changed, I
> > +AD4- havent found a replacement as no-one has been able to find one or
> > cross it
> > +AD4- to another brand. (AO64A6) Vans shows E3260 replacement, but I would
> > like
> > to
> > +AD4- find one local Atlanta and get the plane back together today. also
> > has
> > +AD4- anyone come up with a better airbox? Getting to the filter is like
> > breaking
> > +AD4- into Ft Knox. Charlie Heathco
> > +AD4-
> > +AD4-
> > +AD4-
> > +AF8--+AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9-
> > +AD4- +AF8--+AD0-
> > +AD4- +AF8--+AD0- -- Please Support Your Lists This Month --
> > +AD4- +AF8--+AD0- (And Get Some AWESOME FREE Gifts+ACE-)
> > +AD4- +AF8--+AD0-
> > +AD4- +AF8--+AD0- November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Click on the
> > +AD4- +AF8--+AD0- Contribution link below to find out more about this
> > +AD4- +AF8--+AD0- year's Terrific Free Incentive Gifts provided by the
> > +AD4- +AF8--+AD0- The Builder's Bookstore www.buildersbooks.com+ACE-
> > +AD4- +AF8--+AD0-
> > +AD4- +AF8--+AD0- List Contribution Web Site
> > +AD4- +AF8--+AD0-
> > +AD4- +AF8--+AD0- http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> > +AD4- +AF8--+AD0-
> > +AD4- +AF8--+AD0- Thank you for your generous support+ACE-
> > +AD4- +AF8--+AD0- -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> > +AD4- +AF8--+AD0-
> > +AD4-
> > +AF8--+AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9-
> > +AD4- +AF8--+AD0- - The RV6-List Email Forum -
> > +AD4- +AF8--+AD0- This forum is sponsored entirely through the
> > Contributions
> > +AD4- +AF8--+AD0- of List members. You'll never see banner ads or any
> > other
> > +AD4-
> > +AF8--+AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9-
> > +AD4- +AF8--+AD0- List Related Information
> > +AD4- +AF8--+AD0- Post Message: rv6-list+AEA-matronics.com
> > +AD4- +AF8--+AD0- UN/SUBSCRIBE: http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> > +AD4- +AF8--+AD0- List FAQ:
> > http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV6-List.htm
> > +AD4- +AF8--+AD0- Search Engine: http://www.matronics.com/search
> > +AD4- +AF8--+AD0- 7-Day Browse:
> > +AD4- +AF8--+AD0- Browse Digests:
> > +AD4- +AF8--+AD0- Archives: http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > +AD4- +AF8--+AD0- Photo Share: http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> > +AD4- +AF8--+AD0- List Specific: http://www.matronics.com/rv6-list
> > +AD4- +AF8--+AD0- Other Lists: http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> > +AD4- +AF8--+AD0- Contributions: http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> > +AD4-
> > +AF8--+AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9AD0APQA9-
> > +AD4-
> > +AD4-
> > +AD4-
> > +AD4-
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Philippjw54(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List Digest: 5 Msgs - 11/17/04 |
To Charles Heathco,
Concerning the scratchy noise on rec side of the Kx-125. Have you checked
that only one end of the shielded wires are grounded? Ground only (1 ) one end
of the shielding otherwise you defeat the purpose for the shielding to give
a path for unwanted emf noise (electrical magnetic force) trying to induce emf
to other wiring.
Regards Philip Wallace RV4 builder still
pushing forward
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Kosco" <hooks75(at)msn.com> |
The 3000, 4000 etc are great units. But, two seats, cost, functions, easy to install,
are pluses. I have dual KY-97's, KLN-89B, KT-76A, PM1000II installed
and wired by me. Works great. But it's up to your wallet. Enjoy.
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Jeff Williams
Subject: Re: RV6-List: Intercom's
Actually, the PM3000 is one we have been looking at very closely..
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Subject: Re: RV6-List: Intercom's
>
> Add to your list the PS Engineering PM3000. I am using the 2000 and am
> happy with it. The 3000 is apparently better.
>
> Ron
> Lee
>
> ---------------------------------------------
> This message was sent using Endymion MailMan.
> http://www.endymion.com/products/mailman/
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List Digest: 5 Msgs - 11/17/04 |
Hiya, no I haven checked that. I went over all conn to see if had a loose
one, and also if any headset jacks loose, found psgr side slightly loose,
tightedn, no help, also took ant conn loose and refit, no help. I will check
for double ground. Could ant be causing this? Someone said trotle cable and
others could act as ant, but they are far away from unit. (ant in wing tip ,
dont know wich one.) Charle
----- Original Message -----
From: <Philippjw54(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV6-List: Re: RV6-List Digest: 5 Msgs - 11/17/04
>
> To Charles Heathco,
> Concerning the scratchy noise on rec side of the Kx-125. Have you checked
> that only one end of the shielded wires are grounded? Ground only (1 )
> one end
> of the shielding otherwise you defeat the purpose for the shielding to
> give
> a path for unwanted emf noise (electrical magnetic force) trying to induce
> emf
> to other wiring.
> Regards Philip Wallace RV4 builder
> still
> pushing forward
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net> |
Mark, dont know if you have seen my posts re engine noise in Rec side of my
kx125. Since you installed and wired your radios yourself thought maybe you
would have some Idea what to look for. I tried putting on a filt cap at
Alternator, no help. Xmit side is clean. Charlie heathco
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Kosco" <hooks75(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: RV6-List: Intercom's
>
> The 3000, 4000 etc are great units. But, two seats, cost, functions, easy
> to install, are pluses. I have dual KY-97's, KLN-89B, KT-76A, PM1000II
> installed and wired by me. Works great. But it's up to your wallet.
> Enjoy.
>
> Mark
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jeff Williams
> To: rv6-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV6-List: Intercom's
>
>
> Actually, the PM3000 is one we have been looking at very closely..
>
> Jeff
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV6-List: Intercom's
>
>
>>
>> Add to your list the PS Engineering PM3000. I am using the 2000 and am
>> happy with it. The 3000 is apparently better.
>>
>> Ron
>> Lee
>>
>> ---------------------------------------------
>> This message was sent using Endymion MailMan.
>> http://www.endymion.com/products/mailman/
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Young" <swso2(at)cox.net> |
Looking for an RV6 will considerall versions..Rick Young, Serious buyer with cash
NOW! 949-916-5082
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OneFighterPilot(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wanted to Buy |
What price range are you thinking about? I have one with fewer than 150
hours but it is several years old, always hangered and is in perfect (in the
eyes of this beholder) shape. O-360 with Hartzell CS, slider, fast,
well-equipped. It will not be sold cheap.
I am having some physical problems and may not be able to return to flying.
Bird is currently undergoing some upgrades at FBO, mainly in the cockpit.
Located at Spruce Creek Fly-in Community near Daytona Beach.
Cheers, Richard Collins
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Young" <swso2(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wanted to Buy |
Richard..Sorry to hear when pilots have medical problems......I'm not
looking to steal anybody's airplane..I built one RV 6 and two HARMON
Rockets, the last won a LINDY in '98...I sold it four years ago and bought a
T210 which sold this morning...What I need can be found between 60 &
68K.....If you have any interest, please send photos...Thanks Rick
Young----- Original Message -----
From: <OneFighterPilot(at)aol.com>
To:
Sent: Saturday, November 20, 2004 12:48 PM
Subject: Re: RV6-List: Wanted to Buy
>
> What price range are you thinking about? I have one with fewer than
150
> hours but it is several years old, always hangered and is in perfect (in
the
> eyes of this beholder) shape. O-360 with Hartzell CS, slider, fast,
> well-equipped. It will not be sold cheap.
>
> I am having some physical problems and may not be able to return to
flying.
> Bird is currently undergoing some upgrades at FBO, mainly in the
cockpit.
> Located at Spruce Creek Fly-in Community near Daytona Beach.
>
> Cheers, Richard Collins
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wanted to Buy |
Here is one:
http://www.vansairforce.net/4sale.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Retrofiting P-51 style throtle |
Hiya, I know it can be done, is there a kit abailible, and has anyone here
done it. (RV6A) Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Retrofit strobes |
The 6A I just got has no rotating beacon nor strobes. I think beacon at
least might be a legal requirment as all cert aircr have them. Question is,
who has retrofitted what? Builder says he ran a wire which is coiled in the
tail someplace, so a vert stab tip I think could work. wing tip strobles
might be easier but a lot more expensive. Any recomendations? charlie
heathco
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Retrofit strobes |
I don't think the beacon is a requirement. The Van's kits don't include them for
anti-collision. Plus they are barely visible in daylight. You may be able to
put the strobe in the top of the VS. You will need to remove the fiberglass
tip to mount a single strobe. That is where mine is. You may also use the top
and bottom of the fuselage at the baggage bulkhead to mount the strobes (requires
2).
Kelly 6A finish
>
> From: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net>
> Date: 2004/11/22 Mon AM 08:44:56 EST
> To:
> Subject: RV6-List: Retrofit strobes
>
>
> The 6A I just got has no rotating beacon nor strobes. I think beacon at
> least might be a legal requirment as all cert aircr have them. Question is,
> who has retrofitted what? Builder says he ran a wire which is coiled in the
> tail someplace, so a vert stab tip I think could work. wing tip strobles
> might be easier but a lot more expensive. Any recomendations? charlie
> heathco
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Birkelbach <phil(at)petrasoft.net> |
I love my DRE-244e. I haven't flown with it yet but I have played the
MP3 player through it and listened to people in the traffic pattern at
IWS. Sounds awesome!!
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Panel
http://www.myrv7.com
Jeff Williams wrote:
>
>Hey guys-
>
>My father and I finallyu picked up a 6 and are loving it..
>
>However, there are a few things we want to change.. The airplane currently
>has one of the "portable" intercom systems.. We're looking for something
>decent, 2 place with a music input..
>
>So I was curious as to what you guys were using? We've been browsing the
>Aircraft Spruce catalog but are still unsure which one to grab..
>
>Thanks guys!
>
>Jeff
>N314L
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Oil temp dropping to min. |
Lasttime I was able to get up, I noticed oil temp was lower than norm,
Today able to get up again and it never got but just above min. I would
intuitivly guess it would be more likely the sender than the guage, but I
would like to know if anyone has had this problem? charlie (RV6A)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Lister Comments - Please Support The Lists |
Dear Listers,
Wow! People have been including some very nice comments along with their
Contributions lately! I've included another set of below and will send
another set in a couple of days.
Guys, I really appreciate your kind words and support. In the last few
days, the contributions have really started to come in and its looking like
support this year may slightly surpass last year's. There's still a few
days left in this year's Fund Raiser, so if you've been waiting until the
last minute to make your Contribution, now's the time!
Make Your Contribution Today: http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
----------------- More of What Listers Are Saying... --------------------
Every morning 5:30 am, coffee and the "List". It's how I start my day.
Robert G.
The list is still my favorite aviation magazine.
Roger H.
Great resource, without the distraction of pop ups and ads!
Douglas D.
I look forward to my daily list reading almost as much as my coffee!
Hal K.
Great service!
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I have made some great friends, because of it!
Bob D.
Great resource!!
Richard S.
I learn something of value every time I read the messages.
Stan S.
Great list!
Thomas E.
Now that I am close to completion of my [homebuilt], I look back
and wonder how I could ever have made it this far without [the Lists].
Jeff O.
Outstanding site and administration.
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Great forum for our projects.
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I have become a List Addict!
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A very helpful resource for me.
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Great for staying up on the latest.
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Great tool for all [builders].
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Can't tell you how much I appreciate the archives.
Ken B.
I really enjoy the sharing of information and the "discussions" that come up.
Ross S.
[The List] reminds us home builders that help is just a few clicks away.
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A great resource!
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Always a pleasure to support this list!
Richard W.
Thanks for helping all of us build better aircraft.
John P.
Great list(s)for data, info and making friends.
John S.
[The] List has helped me much with my building process.
Raimo T.
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Jim Jewell ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Jim Jewell
Subject: RV6-A lower cowl engine air intake seal
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/jjewell@telus.net.12.18.2004/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Brunke" <jwbrunk(at)attglobal.net> |
Fellow RV'ers,
What do you use to lube the "O" ring on the fuel cap.
I have some DC-4 compound, but not sure if you can use
that around fuel.
Thanks in advance,
John Brunke N215KC, RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot(at)yahoo.com> |
John,
I have been using fuel lube around the "O" ring. Wicks sells it in a squeeze tube.
Should last you a life time.
Dan DeNeal
RV6a - N256GD
194 hrs 1.5yrs
John Brunke wrote:
Fellow RV'ers,
What do you use to lube the "O" ring on the fuel cap.
I have some DC-4 compound, but not sure if you can use
that around fuel.
Thanks in advance,
John Brunke N215KC, RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Kelly Patterson ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Kelly Patterson
Subject: Tailcone baggage compartment
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/kbob@cox.net.12.31.2004/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clark, Thomas M UTPWR" <Tom.Clark(at)UTCFuelCells.com> |
rv8-list(at)matronics.com, rv9-list(at)matronics.com, rv-list(at)matronics.com,
Mid-AtlRVwing(at)yahoogroups.com, rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com,
BostonRVBuilders(at)yahoogroups.com
Groups,
I have had a bunch of questions about my modified RV-8 Fastback which was
completed mid. last year. I now have a web site that should answer many of
the questions about this modification. Try the link below.
Thanks,
Tom RV8 Fastback, N525TC, 75 hours
http://members.cox.net/rv8fastback
Tom Clark
860-727-2287 Office
860-604-5826 Cell
860-998-9811 Fax
e-mail: tom.clark(at)utcfuelcells.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
| Subject: | [PLEASE READ NOW] - Addressing Upgrade At Matronics TONIGHT! |
Dear Listers,
Service Provider to upgrade to a larger IP subnet. I will be
re-addressing all of the machines on the network including the
Matronics Web Server and Matronics Email Server at that time. Name
Service will be updated at that time as well and most things should
work again pretty quick. There may be some bounced email for a few hours
or even a day or so as the new name-to-ip-address resolutions propagate
into the depths of the Internet.
If you have problems posting a message to one of the Lists or get a
bounced message back, please wait a couple of hours and try sending it
again. Generally, access to the web site should work within 1-hour of
Hopefully the transition will go smoothly and you'll hardly even
notice! :-)
Thanks for your patience!
Matt Dralle
List Administrator
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MnwPeeps(at)aol.com |
Anybody have a nose-gear strut to sell me? I got two names earlier (in New
England), but have lost the info. I also need wheel pants for the nose gear,
and a prop spinner.
Thanks - Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Normanjd(at)aol.com |
I am constructing an aluminum plenum using photos obtained on this website.
The photos did not show how to seal between the plenum and cowl inlets on my
RV6 cowl. I am using the standard RV6 cowl. I would appreciate some photos of
how you have transitioned and sealed the area. I think a lower seal of
rubber is easy enough but how do you attach the upper seal?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Martin Hone" <mctrader(at)bigpond.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re : plenum sealing.. |
Hi Norman,
I made an enclosed plenum using the Van's Baffle Kit, but added my own
aluminum cover plate.
The inlets use baffle rubber/silicone seals bent around the shape of the
upper cowl so as to form a seal similar to the lower cowl seals. None of
them are particularly efficient or even attractive, but they are effective
enough, and I have had absolutely no cooling problems, even with a factory
new engine and 45 degree C days ( over 100 deg F) Make sure you seal all the
other gaps with hi-temp silicone and you will be fine. I added small dams
in front of the cylinders to even out the temps, but the front left baffle
mounted oil cooler keeps the oil too cool most days.
Martin in Oz
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv6-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv6-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV6-List Digest
Server
Subject: RV6-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 01/24/05
*
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Total Messages Posted Mon 01/24/05: 1
Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:31 AM - plenum design (Normanjd(at)aol.com)
________________________________ Message 1
_____________________________________
From: Normanjd(at)aol.com
Subject: RV6-List: plenum design
I am constructing an aluminum plenum using photos obtained on this website.
The photos did not show how to seal between the plenum and cowl inlets on my
RV6 cowl. I am using the standard RV6 cowl. I would appreciate some photos
of
how you have transitioned and sealed the area. I think a lower seal of
rubber is easy enough but how do you attach the upper seal?
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PeterHunt1(at)aol.com |
Norman,
I just finished my aluminum plenum. Worked out really nice. I don't have
pictures yet, but perhaps a brief written answer to your asking how to tie the
cowl in will help.
On the lower cowl I made a removable rubber strip which screws under the
inlet and up each side ("U" shaped). Under the rubber strip is an aluminum
backing strip with four nutplates. The four #6 countersunk stainless steel screws
(each side with no tinnerman washers) and the backing strip remain attached to
the lower cowl at all times. The lower cowl is installed without the rubber
strip. Once installed the rubber strip is slipped in between the lower edge of
the inlet and the backing strip. The rubber strip has "V's" cut in it to
guide in around the screws and center it properly. Then the screws (unpainted
stainless steel) are tightened before the top cowl is installed holding the
rubber strip tightly in place.
The top cowl air intake opening has a similar rubber strip and backing plate
with nutplates, except it remains permanently in place (with cad plated and
painted #6 countersunk screws). It just goes across the top (not down the
sides) of the opening. On both the top and bottom cowl the rubber is on the
underside of the inlets of the cowl and rests on the inside of the aluminum making
up the baffles and plenum. Therefore, when installing the top cowl I must use
my finger tips to pull the rubber down into the inside (underside) of the
plenum.
My baffling and plenum come within one quarter inch of the inside (rear) edge
of the cowl inlet. It was a lot of work, but I have a beautiful fit with
room for the engine to vibrate around the rubber seals. Good luck
Pete in Clearwater
RV-6 N216PH,
Getting ready to start engine
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Brunke" <jwbrunk(at)attglobal.net> |
| Subject: | High oil and fuel pressure |
Most of you folks are good at problem solving. I think I know the answer but here's
the situation.
Flew my RV-6 with an O-320 last week. Air temperature was 6 degrees F. Oil temp
never made it above 150 degrees. As I leveled off and the
fixed pitch prop rpm came up to normal cruise, the oil pressure came up to just
below or at red line and fluctuating about 2 to 3 psi. I reduced RPM to
1700 and slowly came back in to land and the pressure stayed around 85 psi (red
line is 90). In the pattern when my airspeed was back below
100 mph the oil pressure was in its normal range around 80psi.
Ok, it was a really cold day. So I'm thinking that the oil cooler was getting
too much air flow. I was able to block 1/2 of the air flow and flew a couple
of days later when it was in the high 30's. Flight went great.
Went flying today and the air temp was 23 degrees. Even with half the airflow
to the cooler blocked the pressure fluctuation up near red line occurred again.
This aircraft has Van's engine gauges and I was also venturing that the transducer
might be bad, but during these high oil pressure indications the fuel pressure
would also rise. They would rise at the same points. I'm concerned because redline
for fuel pressure is 8 psi and the indication at one point was 12 psi.
So, has anyone run into too much cooling for oil and if so did it also affect your
fuel pressure?
Also, I am concerned about the fuel pressure excursion above red line. What specifically
do you think I should check? I took the cowl off after today's flight
and did not notice any leaks.
The engine was about 45 degrees F when I started it. It is kept in a heated hanger
so the oil was not at ambient temperature when I started it.
I would appreciate your comments.
John Brunke
St. Charles, IL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: High oil and fuel pressure |
John, about the only thing I can think of that would raise fuel pressure
would be blocked tank vents, but you say it flucuated with oil pressure.
strange indeed. I am also on cherokee chat with O-320 problems discussed
regularly, I dont remember seeing your particualar problem come up. As for
oil cooling, mine never gets above 180- and when high and cold it stays
around 145-150. I have considered blocking some of air flow as you have but
have not yet done so.I will post your problem and see if can get something
for you. charlie heathco
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Brunke" <jwbrunk(at)attglobal.net>
Subject: RV6-List: High oil and fuel pressure
Most of you folks are good at problem solving. I think I know the answer
but here's the situation.
Flew my RV-6 with an O-320 last week. Air temperature was 6 degrees F. Oil
temp never made it above 150 degrees. As I leveled off and the
fixed pitch prop rpm came up to normal cruise, the oil pressure came up to
just below or at red line and fluctuating about 2 to 3 psi. I reduced RPM
to
1700 and slowly came back in to land and the pressure stayed around 85 psi
(red line is 90). In the pattern when my airspeed was back below
100 mph the oil pressure was in its normal range around 80psi.
Ok, it was a really cold day. So I'm thinking that the oil cooler was
getting too much air flow. I was able to block 1/2 of the air flow and flew
a couple
of days later when it was in the high 30's. Flight went great.
Went flying today and the air temp was 23 degrees. Even with half the
airflow to the cooler blocked the pressure fluctuation up near red line
occurred again.
This aircraft has Van's engine gauges and I was also venturing that the
transducer might be bad, but during these high oil pressure indications the
fuel pressure
would also rise. They would rise at the same points. I'm concerned
because redline for fuel pressure is 8 psi and the indication at one point
was 12 psi.
So, has anyone run into too much cooling for oil and if so did it also
affect your fuel pressure?
Also, I am concerned about the fuel pressure excursion above red line. What
specifically do you think I should check? I took the cowl off after today's
flight
and did not notice any leaks.
The engine was about 45 degrees F when I started it. It is kept in a heated
hanger so the oil was not at ambient temperature when I started it.
I would appreciate your comments.
John Brunke
St. Charles, IL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly Patterson" <kbob(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | High oil and fuel pressure |
This is a WAG - but it may be a ground problem with the transducers. Is
your sender manifold the anodized type? The anodizing does not conduct
electricity. Since both the fuel and oil senders are mounted there, they
may be seeing the same problem at the same time. Try a star washer under
the manifold mount bolt. No idea why you would get so high on the fuel
pressure unless something is hairballed.
Kelly Patterson
PHX, AZ
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv6-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv6-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Brunke
>Sent: Thursday, January 27, 2005 5:23 PM
>To: rv6-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV6-List: High oil and fuel pressure
>
>
>Most of you folks are good at problem solving. I think I know
>the answer but here's the situation.
>
>Flew my RV-6 with an O-320 last week. Air temperature was 6
>degrees F. Oil temp never made it above 150 degrees. As I
>leveled off and the fixed pitch prop rpm came up to normal
>cruise, the oil pressure came up to just below or at red line
>and fluctuating about 2 to 3 psi. I reduced RPM to
>1700 and slowly came back in to land and the pressure stayed
>around 85 psi (red line is 90). In the pattern when my
>airspeed was back below
>100 mph the oil pressure was in its normal range around 80psi.
>
>Ok, it was a really cold day. So I'm thinking that the oil
>cooler was getting too much air flow. I was able to block 1/2
>of the air flow and flew a couple of days later when it was in
>the high 30's. Flight went great.
>
>Went flying today and the air temp was 23 degrees. Even with
>half the airflow to the cooler blocked the pressure
>fluctuation up near red line occurred again.
>
>This aircraft has Van's engine gauges and I was also venturing
>that the transducer might be bad, but during these high oil
>pressure indications the fuel pressure
>would also rise. They would rise at the same points. I'm
>concerned because redline for fuel pressure is 8 psi and the
>indication at one point was 12 psi.
>
>So, has anyone run into too much cooling for oil and if so did
>it also affect your fuel pressure?
>
>Also, I am concerned about the fuel pressure excursion above
>red line. What specifically do you think I should check? I
>took the cowl off after today's flight and did not notice any leaks.
>
>The engine was about 45 degrees F when I started it. It is
>kept in a heated hanger so the oil was not at ambient
>temperature when I started it.
>
>I would appreciate your comments.
>
>John Brunke
>St. Charles, IL
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thomas Law" <tlaw(at)klondiker.com> |
| Subject: | Re: High oil and fuel pressure |
John, I think you may have a poor ground between the instruments and the transducers.
They are affected by very very small voltage chages in the ground path.
One quick check you can do for the panel ground .......turn on all the electrics
one at a time (engine off), inc. radios (recieve and transmit) , panel
lights, power points, etc, and make sure the gauges stay at "0". There may be
some very slight movement as the system voltage will be changing.
Tom Law RV6A, Whitehorse, Yukon
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "John Brunke" <jwbrunk(at)attglobal.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2005 18:22:41 -0600
>
>Most of you folks are good at problem solving. I think I know the answer but
here's the situation.
>
>Flew my RV-6 with an O-320 last week. Air temperature was 6 degrees F. Oil temp
never made it above 150 degrees. As I leveled off and the
>fixed pitch prop rpm came up to normal cruise, the oil pressure came up to just
below or at red line and fluctuating about 2 to 3 psi. I reduced RPM to
>1700 and slowly came back in to land and the pressure stayed around 85 psi (red
line is 90). In the pattern when my airspeed was back below
>100 mph the oil pressure was in its normal range around 80psi.
>
>Ok, it was a really cold day. So I'm thinking that the oil cooler was getting
too much air flow. I was able to block 1/2 of the air flow and flew a couple
>of days later when it was in the high 30's. Flight went great.
>
>Went flying today and the air temp was 23 degrees. Even with half the airflow
to the cooler blocked the pressure fluctuation up near red line occurred again.
>
>This aircraft has Van's engine gauges and I was also venturing that the transducer
might be bad, but during these high oil pressure indications the fuel pressure
>would also rise. They would rise at the same points. I'm concerned because
redline for fuel pressure is 8 psi and the indication at one point was 12 psi.
>
>So, has anyone run into too much cooling for oil and if so did it also affect
your fuel pressure?
>
>Also, I am concerned about the fuel pressure excursion above red line. What specifically
do you think I should check? I took the cowl off after today's flight
>and did not notice any leaks.
>
>The engine was about 45 degrees F when I started it. It is kept in a heated hanger
so the oil was not at ambient temperature when I started it.
>
>I would appreciate your comments.
>
>John Brunke
>St. Charles, IL
>
>
Sent via the WebMail system at klondiker.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thomas Law" <tlaw(at)klondiker.com> |
| Subject: | Re: High oil and fuel pressure |
John, I think you may have a poor ground between the instruments and the transducers.
They are affected by very very small voltage chages in the ground path.
One quick check you can do for the panel ground .......turn on all the electrics
one at a time (engine off), inc. radios (recieve and transmit) , panel
lights, power points, etc, and make sure the gauges stay at "0". There may be
some very slight movement as the system voltage will be changing.
Tom Law RV6A, Whitehorse, Yukon
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "John Brunke" <jwbrunk(at)attglobal.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2005 18:22:41 -0600
>
>Most of you folks are good at problem solving. I think I know the answer but
here's the situation.
>
>Flew my RV-6 with an O-320 last week. Air temperature was 6 degrees F. Oil temp
never made it above 150 degrees. As I leveled off and the
>fixed pitch prop rpm came up to normal cruise, the oil pressure came up to just
below or at red line and fluctuating about 2 to 3 psi. I reduced RPM to
>1700 and slowly came back in to land and the pressure stayed around 85 psi (red
line is 90). In the pattern when my airspeed was back below
>100 mph the oil pressure was in its normal range around 80psi.
>
>Ok, it was a really cold day. So I'm thinking that the oil cooler was getting
too much air flow. I was able to block 1/2 of the air flow and flew a couple
>of days later when it was in the high 30's. Flight went great.
>
>Went flying today and the air temp was 23 degrees. Even with half the airflow
to the cooler blocked the pressure fluctuation up near red line occurred again.
>
>This aircraft has Van's engine gauges and I was also venturing that the transducer
might be bad, but during these high oil pressure indications the fuel pressure
>would also rise. They would rise at the same points. I'm concerned because
redline for fuel pressure is 8 psi and the indication at one point was 12 psi.
>
>So, has anyone run into too much cooling for oil and if so did it also affect
your fuel pressure?
>
>Also, I am concerned about the fuel pressure excursion above red line. What specifically
do you think I should check? I took the cowl off after today's flight
>and did not notice any leaks.
>
>The engine was about 45 degrees F when I started it. It is kept in a heated hanger
so the oil was not at ambient temperature when I started it.
>
>I would appreciate your comments.
>
>John Brunke
>St. Charles, IL
>
>
Sent via the WebMail system at klondiker.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter Gorman <106365.3572(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Visiting Florida - aerobatics? |
Hi there, I am new to this list.
I will be visiting Florida from Ireland in early April for some flying and
Sun and Fun, together with a friend.
We operate an RV-6 in Europe (circa 300 hours to date), and would like if
possible to make contact with an RV-6 operator in the Ocala/Leesburg area
who would discuss his (or her!) techniques for light aerobatics so we could
learn some new stuff !
Regards
Peter Gorman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sherri & Paul Richardson" <prichar(at)mail.win.org> |
| Subject: | Buying an RV-6 or 6A |
0.31 SUBJ_BUY Subject line starts with Buy or Buying
Hello All,
I'd like to buy an RV-6/6A, VFR/IFR. 160 or 180 HP, Lycoming or Superior,
CS/FP. Like to keep it lowest cost, but will consider a higher cost IFR
airplane.
Paul Richardson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert E. Lynch" <rv6lynch(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Buying an RV-6 or 6A |
Hi Sherri and Paul
I have an RV 6 that I am thinking of selling. Its a 180HP with fixed pitch
Sensenich an IFR certified, 460TTA/C and Engine. Asking $84,000, if your are
interested let me know off list. The Radios are all King Silver Crown.
Bob Lynch
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sherri & Paul Richardson" <prichar(at)mail.win.org> |
| Subject: | 150 HP RV-6 Density Altitude |
Hi All,
I'm considering buying a 150 HP RV-6, and was wondering if anyone has
experience operating in Colorado highlands with that configuration?
Thanks,
Paul Richardson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 150 HP RV-6 Density Altitude |
>
>Hi All,
>I'm considering buying a 150 HP RV-6, and was wondering if anyone has
>experience operating in Colorado highlands with that configuration?
My biased opinion is 180 HP. That is what I have. 150 HP in an RV
may perform better than a Cessna 172 but I think you may regret it.
Email me at ronlee(at)pcisys.net and if you are close enough we can
go ride in mine.
Ron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Van's Aircraft Belt Buckles For Sale |
I have high quality "Van's Aircraft - Total Performance" belt buckles
for sale. I have also recently updated my site with better pictures, and customer
comments. Please check them out at:
http://home.earthlink.net/~gbrasch/
Thank you, Glenn Brasch, Tucson RV-9A fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CRASHOCONNOR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 150 HP RV-6 Density Altitude |
In a message dated 3/15/2005 7:22:33 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
prichar(at)mail.win.org writes:
Paul,
I owned a 150 hp RV6A in Phoenix Arizona. I flew to Sedona quite a few times
which was at 5000 ft of altitude. When it was hot it seemed like it took
forever to get off the ground. The runway is 5000 ft long, and I was never in
danger of not getting it off the ground in time, but it felt like it was taking
forever(I never used more than half the runway).
The other thing I can tell you is that I flew with a great group of fellow
RVers(they all had 180 hp planes and most had constant speed props) and felt
like I was in a Cessna all over again. If you can afford a bigger engine and a
constant speed prop you will be much happier than if you save money and get
the smaller engine. I was always thinking about how to increase the power in
my engine. This is another way to get more power without getting the larger
engine, and it's a lot less expensive than buying a 360 engine.The other thing
you can do is work on speed modifications on the plane itself such as wing
root faring's and just cleaning up any drag problems you may have.
But if a 150 hp engine is all you can afford, get it anyway. After all it's
an RV. And you just can't beat that.
Good luck with your plane.
Mike O'Connor
N811RF
--> RV6-List message posted by: "Sherri & Paul Richardson"
Hi All,
I'm considering buying a 150 HP RV-6, and was wondering if anyone has
experience operating in Colorado highlands with that configuration?
Thanks,
Paul Richardson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MnwPeeps(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | What parts do I need? |
New owner here, in need of parts. I find the Vans site intimidating for
parts (the list has thousands on it). I need (1) engine mounts. Vans says four
pairs, but when they show a price, it's $68 for, they say, one. Is that one
mount, or one pair? Seems rather high, in any case. (2) The sleeve, or whatever
it's properly called, that fits over the new nose gear strut I acquired. I
attempted "nose gear strut sleeve" on the Vans site, with zero result. (3) I
need the bracket, attachment, or whatever it is (haven't seen it), that is on
the bottom of the cowl, about 18 inches aft of the prop, that either attaches
the cowl haves to each other, or attaches the cowl to the fuselage. Even the
builder of this a/c (who's built a second one) has been unable to tell me
what this is, hence my inability to order. I will buy any of these from owners,
if you have them.
Thanks
- Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom and Marilyn Law" <tlaw(at)klondiker.com> |
| Subject: | Re: What parts do I need? |
Chuck,
The only way to be sure of getting the RIGHT parts the first time is to get
the number of the part from the aircraft drawing sheets and then look up the
part number on Van's web page ... choose "The List" for RV specific parts
and the online catalogue for the rest.
$68.00 sound about right for one (pair) mount. You will have to order the
hardware (bolts) for the mounts as well as they do not come with the mounts.
Tom Law 6A Whitehorse, Yukon, Can.
----- Original Message -----
>
> New owner here, in need of parts. I find the Vans site intimidating for
> parts (the list has thousands on it). I need (1) engine mounts. Vans says
four
> pairs, but when they show a price, it's $68 for, they say, one. Is that
one
> mount, or one pair? Seems rather high, in any case. (2) The sleeve, or
whatever
> it's properly called, that fits over the new nose gear strut I acquired.
I
> attempted "nose gear strut sleeve" on the Vans site, with zero result.
(3) I
> need the bracket, attachment, or whatever it is (haven't seen it), that
is on
> the bottom of the cowl, about 18 inches aft of the prop, that either
attaches
> the cowl haves to each other, or attaches the cowl to the fuselage. Even
the
> builder of this a/c (who's built a second one) has been unable to tell me
> what this is, hence my inability to order. I will buy any of these from
owners,
> if you have them.
>
> Thanks
> - Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: What parts do I need? |
Hi Chuck,
Pretty sure the motor mount is for a pair. The rubber mounts are different thickness
on front and back and you can't interchange them, so you won't buy 2 to
make a pair. You buy them as a set.
I would suggest a set of plans - preview or full size - that have the parts, their
numbers, and how to install them shown on them. You could also get with another
builder and check his plans out. A 7 is almost identical and in most cases
a little easier or better. Post your location and see if someone local can
help you out.
Also a good idea to use the regular 'RV' list not the 'RV6' list. This one is
practically dead - and most RV info is now universal.
Kelly Patterson
RV-6A hanging motor soon
PHX, AZ
>
> From: MnwPeeps(at)aol.com
> Date: 2005/04/01 Fri PM 12:45:16 EST
> To: rv6-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV6-List: What parts do I need?
>
>
> New owner here, in need of parts. I find the Vans site intimidating for
> parts (the list has thousands on it). I need (1) engine mounts. Vans says four
> pairs, but when they show a price, it's $68 for, they say, one. Is that one
> mount, or one pair? Seems rather high, in any case. (2) The sleeve, or whatever
> it's properly called, that fits over the new nose gear strut I acquired. I
> attempted "nose gear strut sleeve" on the Vans site, with zero result. (3) I
> need the bracket, attachment, or whatever it is (haven't seen it), that is on
> the bottom of the cowl, about 18 inches aft of the prop, that either attaches
> the cowl haves to each other, or attaches the cowl to the fuselage. Even the
> builder of this a/c (who's built a second one) has been unable to tell me
> what this is, hence my inability to order. I will buy any of these from owners,
> if you have them.
>
> Thanks
> - Chuck
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mnwpeeps(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: What parts do I need? |
Dear Kelly - Many thanks for the reply and the good information -
useful. I've heard back from four guys, all with slightly different -
but good - information. This sure is a useful site. I will act upon
your reccos. Regards - Chuck
-----Original Message-----
From: kbob(at)cox.net
Subject: Re: RV6-List: What parts do I need?
Hi Chuck,
Pretty sure the motor mount is for a pair. The rubber mounts are
different
thickness on front and back and you can't interchange them, so you
won't buy 2
to make a pair. You buy them as a set.
I would suggest a set of plans - preview or full size - that have the
parts,
their numbers, and how to install them shown on them. You could also
get with
another builder and check his plans out. A 7 is almost identical and
in most
cases a little easier or better. Post your location and see if someone
local
can help you out.
Also a good idea to use the regular 'RV' list not the 'RV6' list. This
one is
practically dead - and most RV info is now universal.
Kelly Patterson
RV-6A hanging motor soon
PHX, AZ
>
> From: MnwPeeps(at)aol.com
> Date: 2005/04/01 Fri PM 12:45:16 EST
> To: rv6-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV6-List: What parts do I need?
>
>
> New owner here, in need of parts. I find the Vans site intimidating
for
> parts (the list has thousands on it). I need (1) engine mounts. Vans
says four
> pairs, but when they show a price, it's $68 for, they say, one. Is
that one
> mount, or one pair? Seems rather high, in any case. (2) The sleeve,
or
whatever
> it's properly called, that fits over the new nose gear strut I
acquired. I
> attempted "nose gear strut sleeve" on the Vans site, with zero
result. (3) I
> need the bracket, attachment, or whatever it is (haven't seen it),
that is on
> the bottom of the cowl, about 18 inches aft of the prop, that either
attaches
> the cowl haves to each other, or attaches the cowl to the fuselage.
Even the
> builder of this a/c (who's built a second one) has been unable to
tell me
> what this is, hence my inability to order. I will buy any of these
from
owners,
> if you have them.
>
>
Thanks
> - Chuck
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry2DT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re:What parts do I need? |
Hi Chuck,
I'm building a -6a which came with the old plans. When it came to the stuff
forward of the firewall, I bought a set of RV7a preview plans which are much
better, show exploded views, parts numbers, etc. These are virtually
identical to the -6a and would help you I am sure. I would advise you to call
Van's
and ask for Dale, he's a guy I know personally, (I live 10 min. from Van's)
and is probably their main parts guy. I'd call him after Monday as they are
always the busiest then. Those preview plans I believe are $25 or so and worth
it, IMO. Hope this helps and welcome to the RV world.
Jerry Cochran
Wilsonville, OR
From: MnwPeeps(at)aol.com
Subject: RV6-List: What parts do I need?
New owner here, in need of parts. I find the Vans site intimidating for
parts (the list has thousands on it). I need (1) engine mounts. Vans says
four
pairs, but when they show a price, it's $68 for, they say, one. Is that one
mount, or one pair? Seems rather high, in any case. (2) The sleeve, or
whatever
it's properly called, that fits over the new nose gear strut I acquired. I
attempted "nose gear strut sleeve" on the Vans site, with zero result. (3)
I
need the bracket, attachment, or whatever it is (haven't seen it), that is
on
the bottom of the cowl, about 18 inches aft of the prop, that either
attaches
the cowl haves to each other, or attaches the cowl to the fuselage. Even
the
builder of this a/c (who's built a second one) has been unable to tell me
what this is, hence my inability to order. I will buy any of these from
owners,
if you have them.
Thanks
- Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | [Please Read] Matronics Email Server Upgrade... |
Dear Listers,
I will be upgrading the Matronics Email Server this weekend. This includes
some hardware improvements - more memory, faster, more capable processors -
as well as a complete operating system upgrade from scratch. I hope to
have both the old system and the new system running at the same time to
minimize the actual impact of the upgrade.
Hopefully there will be little actual downtime during the transition, but a
few posts may get lost in the shuffle. If you don't see your post show up
on the List in the normal amount of time (plus a little bit), then please
just try posting it again.
Upgrading the Matronics Email Server operating system (from Redhat Linux
7.2 to Redhat Linux WS 4) is a sizeable undertaking and requires a great
deal of work to port all of the utilities, programs, and scripts over to
the new system. As I've already mentioned, both the old and new systems
will be on line at the same time, so interruption should be held to an
absolute minimal. You might see a couple of odd test messages during the
cut-over or other odd messages; please just ignore them.
I have setup a new System Status Web Page that I will use to update List
Members on the current status of the email and web systems. Please refer
to it as often as you like:
http://www.matronics.com/SystemStatus/
Thank you for your continued support of the List Services at
Matronics! Its your yearly Contributions that make these major upgrades
possible!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | [Please Read] Matronics Email Server Upgrade Complete! |
Dear Listers,
The upgrade of the Matronics Email Server can be considered complete at
this time. All known issues related to the upgrade process have been
resolved and email services are running normal. The Nightly Digest
processing has not yet been tested and will wait for tonight's update.
If you encounter any odd behavior with respect to the Matronics Email
Server over the next few days, please contact me via email at
dralle(at)matronics.com or if that fails try dralle(at)speakeasy.net.
Thanks to everyone for being patient through this arduous process of a
major system upgrade!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
At 12:37 PM 4/16/2005 Saturday, Matt Dralle wrote:
>Dear Listers,
>
>I will be upgrading the Matronics Email Server this weekend. This
>includes some hardware improvements - more memory, faster, more capable
>processors - as well as a complete operating system upgrade from
>scratch. I hope to have both the old system and the new system running at
>the same time to minimize the actual impact of the upgrade.
>
>Hopefully there will be little actual downtime during the transition, but
>a few posts may get lost in the shuffle. If you don't see your post show
>up on the List in the normal amount of time (plus a little bit), then
>please just try posting it again.
>
>Upgrading the Matronics Email Server operating system (from Redhat Linux
>7.2 to Redhat Linux WS 4) is a sizeable undertaking and requires a great
>deal of work to port all of the utilities, programs, and scripts over to
>the new system. As I've already mentioned, both the old and new systems
>will be on line at the same time, so interruption should be held to an
>absolute minimal. You might see a couple of odd test messages during the
>cut-over or other odd messages; please just ignore them.
>
>I have setup a new System Status Web Page that I will use to update List
>Members on the current status of the email and web systems. Please refer
>to it as often as you like:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/SystemStatus/
>
>
>Thank you for your continued support of the List Services at
>Matronics! Its your yearly Contributions that make these major upgrades
>possible!
>
>Best regards,
>
>Matt Dralle
>Matronics Email List Administrator
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Mike Holland ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Mike Holland
Lists: RV-List,RV6-List,RV7-List,RV8-List,RV9-List,RV10-List
Subject: Quickbuild Fuel Pickup Issue
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/hollandm@pacbell.net.05.02.2005/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pat morency <acwrench(at)yahoo.ca> |
| Subject: | F684 gusset, RV-6 |
To All,
Head scratching time!!!
Trying to mount the F684 gusset on the lower longeron
(large one). If fitted from the outboard side in
between the skin and longeron the WD603 engine mount
interferes with the gusset.
Is the F684 gusset bent or cut in any way b/4
mounting?
DWG#31 detail "E" appears to show the gusset on the
outside going low enough to "take in" the cross brace
and the engine mount WD603.
Any suggestions appreciated!!
Regards,
Patrick in Calgary
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Henry Hore ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Henry Hore <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Lists: RV-List,RV6-List,RV7-List,RV8-List,RV9-List
Subject: Leveling RV6-A Fuselage
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com.06.18.2005/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Bigger tires for 6A on grass? |
Fellow listers,
I am trying to determine if there are benefits to going with larger tires/rims
for grass strip use.
I am in the process of relocating to eastern MD / southern DE and there are a bunch
of grass strips out here - with better potential for acquiring hangaring
facilities...
Your thoughts please.
Ralph Capen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Mcmahon" <rv6(at)earthlink.net> |
"JIMMY EDWARDS" ,
"DOUG ESHELMAN" , "Tom Eyssen" ,
"Dave Hudgins" ,
"Janet" ,
"CHUCK JENKJINS" , ,
"BILL LOGUE" , "Mancini" ,
"Joe Mckervey" ,
"JOHN MILLER" ,
"ALLEN MOLLEYHORN" ,
"Piper, Gary" , ,
"EDD \(2003\) TECK" , "TOBY" ,
"Tommy Walker" ,
"Winans, Dave W" ,
"JOHN WOODALL"
| Subject: | First Flight N863JJ |
First flight of Kit #22411 RV6 at Portland,Tn (1M5) on the 22nd at 0732..This
was a 13 year project,the old
slow kit ..Thanks to the RV list,Gary V, and Sam B's Web site..I used the EAA
first flight guide lines,which
is a must do if you can...Flight time was only 20 min,but SWEET...Mistakes that
I made!!!
1Check everything 3 times in the Eng,oil line,gas lines,etc...
2Hart C/S got ahead of me when it un/loaded on take off(2780) WHEW
After take off,stayed in the pattern and trim out and say to myself (WOW)...did
I do this..(JAMES 1:17)
Then things started to change after about 18 min,the VM1000 oil pressure gauge
which was 80#
was showing a TREND down,76,1 min later 71,65,60,53, radio to ground crew coming
down ,landed
3 point ,and when it slowed down in the roll out I see smoke but I still have oil
pressure 38#
shut it down in front of the hanger and this plane looks like a Red chili pepper
dipped it olive oil!!
Lift top Cowl ,open top of plenum cover and the flange to the prop gov line loose....This
has never
leaked at any point doing run ups etc(check every line 3 times with a wrench)I
had put 7 qts in just
in case!!It dumped 3 Qts pretty sudden..
I have made the prop hub adj fine pitch ..put in the 3 qts and ready to go up again
....Oh well
thats why they call it first test flight!!!
The what I have so far info..
Eng is 0360 A1A Aero sport Lightspeed right side
Empty weight1142
Inst PanelLaird Owens
Seats and uplDJ
Harts C/S
GraphicsFreedom Graphics
Paint GuyMe
Primer sealer Epoxy Dupont 2510s
PPG DBU base coat Torch Red (Vette Red)
PPG clear 2021
Some Pic
http://www.3gunmatch.com/rv6/rv6.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OneFighterPilot(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Remove from mail list |
Please do so, and thanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Mcmahon" <rv6(at)earthlink.net> |
"Graig Plane paint" ,
| Subject: | Fw: First Flight N863JJ |
----- Original Message -----
From: John Mcmahon
Subject: First Flight N863JJ
First flight of Kit #22411 RV6 at Portland,Tn (1M5) on the 22nd at 0732..This
was a 13 year project,the old
slow kit ..Thanks to the RV list,Gary V, and Sam B's Web site..I used the EAA
first flight guide lines,which
is a must do if you can...Flight time was only 20 min,but SWEET...Mistakes that
I made!!!
1Check everything 3 times in the Eng,oil line,gas lines,etc...
2Hart C/S got ahead of me when it un/loaded on take off(2780) WHEW
After take off,stayed in the pattern and trim out and say to myself (WOW)...did
I do this..(JAMES 1:17)
Then things started to change after about 18 min,the VM1000 oil pressure gauge
which was 80#
was showing a TREND down,76,1 min later 71,65,60,53, radio to ground crew coming
down ,landed
3 point ,and when it slowed down in the roll out I see smoke but I still have oil
pressure 38#
shut it down in front of the hanger and this plane looks like a Red chili pepper
dipped it olive oil!!
Lift top Cowl ,open top of plenum cover and the flange to the prop gov line loose....This
has never
leaked at any point doing run ups etc(check every line 3 times with a wrench)I
had put 7 qts in just
in case!!It dumped 3 Qts pretty sudden..
I have made the prop hub adj fine pitch ..put in the 3 qts and ready to go up again
....Oh well
thats why they call it first test flight!!!
The what I have so far info..
Eng is 0360 A1A Aero sport Lightspeed right side
Empty weight1142
Inst PanelLaird Owens
Seats and uplDJ
Harts C/S
GraphicsFreedom Graphics
Paint GuyMe
Primer sealer Epoxy Dupont 2510s
PPG DBU base coat Torch Red (Vette Red)
PPG clear 2021
Some Pic
http://www.3gunmatch.com/rv6/rv6.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CharlesRV6(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 06/22/05 |
Just take off the wheel pants. No problems!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
Lists: RV-List,RV3-List,RV4-List,RV6-List,RV7-List,RV8-List,RV9-List,RV10-List
Subject: Brake Line Failure
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/eanderson@carolina.rr.com.07.02.2005/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Cooper <sportflyer(at)emcity.net> (SquirrelMail authenticated |
user sportflyer) by webmail.emcity.net with HTTP; Sat,
2 Jul 2005 12:40:54.-0600(at)roxy.matronics.com (MDT)
| Subject: | looking for engine |
I'm looking for a used Rotax 912/912S or new in crate. Have cash ready to
purchase.
sportflyer(at)emcity.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | List Digest Truncation Fixed!! |
Dear Listers,
I finally figured out today what was causing the occasional
truncation of the daily List Digest emails. Seems that every once in
a while a message would contain a single "." (period) on line all by
itself. The mailers would see this and assume that this was the
universal emailer signal for "end of message", and consequently
wouldn't process any of the rest of the Digest message.
I've put in a filter today to remove any of these sequences so we
should be back in business on the Digests.
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin.
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson(at)consolidated.net> |
| Subject: | Oshkosh Bound from South and Midwest |
If you are going to Oshkosh, you may want to consider a stop at our
little small town airport.
3LF http://www.litchfieldil.com/airport/
take a look at the photography, the young eagle links, the pilot info
and then.......... stop over here for a night.
Gas is guaranteed at $2.85 a gallon (self service, like at the car gas
stations). We have a courtesy car ( old chevy, not pretty. but runs
good) No, the gas price is not very good, but it is the best we can do
and it will be this price on return trip also. We are about 340 or 350
miles straight south of Oshkosh..
On field camping, and motels within 1 mile walk. restarants, bars, Free
overnighting and Admin. bulding will be
Kept open for rest rooms and what ever. Sleep in there if you want......
Broadband Internet.
Pass this information around to the other lists if you dont mind.
Bring your tie downs and ropes that you will need in Oshkosh just in
case we would have more than eight planes here. There is plenty of grass
for tie downs.......
Also Chapter 61, Acro contest will be going on that weekend at Salem
Illinois.(about 45 miles southeast) Feel free to stop in there for some
great competition and partying....
Phil RV6 flown and tore down now for painting............
Sure wish I had a Pitt's to Fly..........
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | A GUIDE TO AIRCRAFT PAINTING & CORROSION CONTROL |
> This Information comes from my own research which I
did for
> my RV-8A, which I am building. Information applies
to both Aluminum and Composite aircraft. This is the
3th printing.
>
> --------------- ------------- ------------
>
> SAVE YOURSELF hundreds of hours of research time and
> building time, by using the comprehensive
>
> "Guide to Painting & Corrosion Control of Aluminum
> and
> Composite Aircraft"
>
> This book took over 600+ hours of research time by
> me,
> a fussy RV-8A Builder. Contains 69 pages of the
> latest, practical information - summarized and
> gathered from MIL Standards, Paint Shops, Builders
> like you (what worked or didn't), Airframe Mfgs,
> etc.
> Covers products from PP&G, Dupont, Sherwin W'ms,
> Sterling, Poly Fiber, Deft, Randolph Paints, PRC De
> Soto, US Paints, Aircraft Finishing Systems, 3M,
> etc.
>
> Some of the Topics covered in the 30 Sections are:
> * Aircraft Paints vs Auto Paints and Other
> Considerations
> * Corrosion Control
> * Spray Guns - selecting, adjusting, using
> and painting problems
> * Brushes / Rollers used with Primers &
> Paints
> * Prep Methods for Painting - Fiberglass,
> Steel and Aluminum
> * Epoxy Primers for Aluminum - MIL &
> Commercial, Solvent & Water Reducible
> * Primers for Fiberglass & Steel
> * Wash Primers & Self Etching Primers
> * Other Primers - Zinc Chromate,Zinc Oxide,
> Enamel
> * Paint Types: MIL & Non MIL Polyurethanes
> Enamel Types
> Acrylics - Lacquers & Enamels
> * Acid Etch / Conversion Coatings (Alodine)
> * Selecting a Paint Shop
> * 3M Cleaning Pads, Liquid Cleaner
> compatibility
> * Paint Booths and their Construction
> * References - MIL Standards & Tech Orders
> * Directory of Aircraft Paint Mfgs, Distrib-
> utors, etc. E-Mail addresses, phone
> numbers, Application Notes
>
> YOUR AIRPLANE is judged by it's Paint Job and it is
> costly too, so have the latest "Information" in
> order
> to make good decisions. Contains plenty of "Do's"
> and
> "Don'ts" that save you time, money and frustration.
>
> Send a check for $26 to (includes Postage within the
> US) to:
> Garey Wittich RV-8A Builder
> 58 Village Parkway
> Santa Monica, CA. 90405
>
>
__________________________________
http://mobile.yahoo.com/learn/mail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
rv7-list(at)matronics.com, rv8-list(at)matronics.com, rv9-list(at)matronics.com,
Listers,
Gary VanRemortel just sent me an update to the RV Yeller Pages and it
can be found here:
http://www.matronics.com/YellerPages/
Thanks Gary!!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin.
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <flyingrv(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Heating and Shaping Fiberglass |
Heating and Shaping Fiberglass
OK Gang, heres the deal on heating and shaping fiberglass. This is always
true with ester resins (more or less) and somewhat true with epoxy (most of
the time.)
When resins harden they form a molecular, 3 dimensional fishnet looking
structure. This fishnet is wrapped, wound, in, over and throughout the fiberglass
strands.
The fiberglass strands are about the same as the window you are gazing
out of wondering why you are reading this. Chemically there are differences,
but I dont have a clue just how that works.
If you got way down in the strands you would find teeny tiny fibers that
look like a barb wire fence made by a guy that went insane putting the barbs
on.
When you heat this thing up, the molecular bonds weaken in the fishnet
and as you bend/reshape the part the fishnet tears apart and the fibers in the
glass break because they cannot slide past each other like they could when the
resin was a fluid.
If you have been following along here, you can see that you just broke
the part. You probably cant see it because its more or less on the molecular
level, but it is broken.
Now the question is are you ever going to care. If it is a no or low stress
area it probably isnt going to cause a problem. If its a stressed or vibrated
area it will crack after you put that 1OK paint job on.
Epoxy is a little different deal, sometimes and sort of. It is more a
temperature cure where -ester resin is more related to time. Most -ester laminates
will be cured in 24 to 72 hours. The epoxy we use will be hard when it
has been to 150 to 175 degrees F. What this says is, if you make a part and it
has been to, say 80 degrees you can heat it to 120 degrees and reform it some.
The resin will reharden but the glass strands my not like it much.
Now experts and engineers dont argue with me! Im old, crotchety, and dont
want to be confused by facts. Nevertheless, do feel free to add your thinking
to the discussion.
Bob Snedaker
Fairings-Etc
bob@fairings-etc.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Dear Listers,
I will be taking the Matronics Web Server down for a few hours today,
Tuesday September 6 2005 for a chassis upgrade. Archive browsing and
searching along with subscription services will be unavailable for
be processed normally during the upgrade. Please check the Matronics
System Status Page for updates (although this page resides on the web
server and won't be available during the upgrade):
http://www.matronics.com/SystemStatus/
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin.
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RV6A mainwheel base dimension |
INNOCENT GLOBAL 0.0000 1.0000 -4.4912
Folks,
I've checked the archives and have some partial answers....
What I am looking for is the center-of-tread to center-of tread distance between
the main landing gear for an O360 CS equipped RV6A that is flying.
Thanks,
Ralph Capen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dick" <dick(at)rclabs.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A mainwheel base dimension |
Mine is 82 1/2" with about half full fuel tanks.
Dick
Wildman
N164DF
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV6-List: RV6A mainwheel base dimension
>
> Folks,
>
> I've checked the archives and have some partial answers....
>
> What I am looking for is the center-of-tread to center-of tread distance
between the main landing gear for an O360 CS equipped RV6A that is flying.
>
> Thanks,
> Ralph Capen
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Travis Hamblen" <TravisHamblen(at)cox.net> |
1999 RV-6A for sale $68,500.00. 415 Hobbs hours (about 350 tach hours) TTAF
& Engine with a FACTORY NEW Lycoming O-320-D1A (160 h.p.). Sterba 68 x 76
prop best prop I have ever flown behind. Full professional panel with all
new modern flight and engine instruments. Avmap EKP-IV color moving map GPS
(7 inch screen). Bendix/King Comm and mode C transponder. Custom
professional paint job that makes this RV a major eye catcher! Interior is
finish painted to match exterior with basic upholstery. NO DAMAGE HISTORY
and all construction logs, construction pictures, airframe/engine logs, and
receipts back to day one! With a factory new engine this plane runs like a
top and is one sweet plane that NEEDS NO WORK! Meets or exceeds all Vans
performance numbers. Contact Travis by e-mail at TravisHamblen(at)cox.net or
at 702-255-3635 for more info or pictures. Specs and pictures can be seen
at:
http://www.geocities.com/iflybygps/index.htm
Travis Hamblen
VGT (North Las Vegas)
RV-6A For Sale
RV-7A finishing finish kit and engine on order
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Frost <ghfrost(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | flip up canopy seal, RV-6 |
I flew in and out of a rain shower and quickly found out that the
forward canopy seal leaked. I had tried a variety of sealing strips
including weather strips, None of them would stay in place and did not
really fill the non uniform gap between fuselage and canopy. I had
heard that some flip up owners solved the problem only by avoiding
rain. I tried something which seems to stay in place, fills the gap,
and looks like it should be watertight. Borrowing Van's technique for
sealing the air vent, pivoting doors, I coated the canopy with vaseline
and laid in successive layers of clear RTV, gradually building up a
gasket that firmly adheres to the fuselage and looks like it should
seal properly. The canopy should be closed when the RTV is still
uncured so that it forms to the space. It does require some trimming. I
have not yet flown in the rain but have taken a precaution to cover my
avionics with plastic sheet for the test. I also plan to quickly fly in
and out of a rain shower first.
I also have installed a thin plastic weatherstrip ( Frost King V-Seal,
self stick, White M13W ) that is used in corners and has a
longitudinal hinge point. I put this on the fuselage exterior in front
of the gap where it will flip up when the canopy is open but is folded
down over the canopy joint by the air stream. This strip is flat and
quite thin ( approx .010 ). Since it is only about .5 wide on a side it
requires an additional piece of strip to be added similar to lapped
house siding in order to extend past the forward edge of edge of the
open canopy. It will only work on the flat area on top, as the hinge
will not fold when it goes around the curved portion of the fuselage.
It does extend beyond the vulnerable avionics area. A drawing would
work better to explain this but my scanner is down.
If anyone is interested I could fax a drawing which someone could then
send to any one else interested.
I would also like to hear from anyone who has solved flip up leakage as
it is entirely possible that my solution might not work.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hollis Walter" <ardhlmsr(at)eocc.com> |
"Ci-iallis Sof-tabs" is better than Pfizer V-iiaggrra
and normal Ci-ialis because:
- Guarantes 36 hours lasting
- Safe to take, no side effectts at all
- Boost and increase se-xual perfoormance
- Haarder e-rectiiions and quick recharge
- Proven and c-ertified by e-xperts and d-octors
- only $2 per tabs
- Special offeer! These prices
- are valid u-ntil 30th of September !
Cllick hereee: http://gsullivan-consulting.com
depositor inhale hundredth perth seethe sari dreyfuss flagging wappinger pam
classificatory demented fine dyeing brusque theretofore amateurish equipotent knowledge
stu protozoan buxom siva nose dance inequitable coolheaded mung braggart document
goldwater sanitate doldrum alive aura eclectic debility dogtooth
argue fine barycentric mushroom atlantes ernie immobile bough
shitepoke bayesian presentational whup anteroom debby accumulate grenade
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bud Newhall <RV-6(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Builder assistance available |
Greetings
You want an RV but don't have the time to build it.
I can help.
I am a machinist by trade. I completed an RV-6 in 2200 hrs. (no
prepunced holes) and assisted on 2 others.
I am available to work on a project full time.
I am located in Lodi, CA.
Bud Newhall
RV-6(at)comcast.net
209-334-2911
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LessDragProd(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | MT Propeller 183-59 blade exchange offer |
Hi All,
MT Propeller and Less Drag Products, Inc. is offering a blade exchange
program for the Lycoming 360 3 blade MT Propeller.
If you have the MTV-12, or MTV-18, 3 blade MT Propeller on your Lycoming 360
engine, you can exchange your present 183-59 blades for the new 183-59b
blades.
You might be interested in this offer if you would like to remove the mid
range RPM restriction on your Lycoming 360 engine, and increase your cruise
speed by about 5 mph.
MT Propeller is offering to exchange your present three 183-59 blades with a
new set of 183-59b blades for about the same price as a single 183-59b blade.
(The list price for a single replacement 183-59b blade is $2,430.)
Less Drag Products, Inc. will coordinate the actual blade set replacement
for your propeller, based on your location and replacement blade set
availability.
Please contact Less Drag Products, Inc. directly at _jim(at)lessdrag.com_
(mailto:jim(at)lessdrag.com) to obtain a schedule and cost estimate.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
Less Drag Products, Inc.
(805) 499-8646 FAX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Photo Posting Enabled on RV6-List... |
RV6 Listers,
As of this morning, I have enabled limited posting of various picture
formats to the RV6-List. Extensions allowed include: jpg, gif, bmp,
txt, xls, pdf, and doc. Generally, these are all pretty safe and
don't carry viruses of any kind.
A word of caution when posting pictures, however. Double check the
size of the pictures you are posting. This includes both the picture
dimensions (X x Y) but also the total filesize (MB). If you take
pictures right out of your digital camera, it is likely they will be
on the order of 1-4MB each. If you post 10, 3MB photos to the List,
you will be sending 30MB plus encoding (usually a 1.5x gain in size)
to the list, that will have to be redistributed to all members on the
list. That can be a lot of data!
Use a program like Photoshop to reduce the dimensions of the photo to
something on the order of 640x480 and use medium or better
compression when saving the file so that each picture is roughly 50k
to 100k in size.
Let me know what you think of this addition to the
RV6-List. Remember that the PhotoShare is also still available and
generally the best way to share photos of an archival nature.
Matt Dralle
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MnwPeeps(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A for sale |
Travis - Any offers in your price range? Just wondering.
I have a -6A I might want to sell next year, and I'm hearing from a couple
of guys selling theirs that everybody expects a really low deal these days, and
this one guy had to reduce his asking from 60K to 50K, for a 6. He sold it
for $50K.
I have about 10 hrs. SMOH, and was hoping to recover most of that money if I
sold, but I'm beginning to suspect I won't.
Thx -
Mike Wood - Boston
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Balone Marine <balone_99(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A for sale |
I am selling my RV6 for $47,500 and I have been
building A/C for over 60yr,s they still wount buy it .
I am ready to give it away.
Bud
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A for sale |
In a message dated 10/11/2005 2:59:54 PM Eastern Standard Time,
balone_99(at)yahoo.com writes:
I am ready to give it away.
Bud
If you are giving it away, I'll Take it!. What is in it?
Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Balone Marine <balone_99(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A for sale |
If you dont know what it is you dont get it.
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A for sale |
In a message dated 10/12/2005 2:14:48 PM Eastern Standard Time,
balone_99(at)yahoo.com writes:
If you dont know what it is you dont get it.
I know what it is but not what it has for avionics, engine, equipment etc.
Maybe that why you are not getting the offers that you would want. The RV-6A
including mine that have real value on the market have new or very low time
engines (lycoming), props avionics, auto pilots, professional interiors etc.
etc. etc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A for sale |
At 02:09 PM 10/12/2005, you wrote:
>In a message dated 10/12/2005 2:14:48 PM Eastern Standard Time,
>balone_99(at)yahoo.com writes:
>If you dont know what it is you dont get it.
>I know what it is but not what it has for avionics, engine, equipment etc.
>Maybe that why you are not getting the offers that you would want. The
>RV-6A including mine that have real value on the market have new or very
>low time engines (lycoming), props avionics, auto pilots, professional
>interiors etc. etc. etc.
And maybe not everyone wants all that fancy stuff. Each aircraft has an
inherent
value. When I looked for mine one would not have taken at least one
(unless I could
have salvaged some of it). Someone can price their 6A at $90K but expect the
buyer pool to be very small.
I will guestimate the majority of 6As are in the $60-70K range with some worth
less and some worth more.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Test 1 - Ignore... |
This is a test, please ignore.
(direct attachment)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Test 2 - Ignore... |
This is a test, please ignore.
[]
(inline attachment)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Test 3 - Ignore... |
This is a test, please ignore.
[]
(inline attachment, with styled encodeing)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MnwPeeps(at)aol.com |
My 1993 6-A is in great shape, 10 hours SMOH, performed by a very high
quality shop - the same folks who built the original engine, which accumulated
2200 happy hours. New Sensenich. IFR panel, Garmin, autopilot, nice paint. New
England area - will deliver. More details to interested parties. $68,000.
Reply to _mnwpeeps(at)aol.com_ (mailto:tomnwpeeps(at)aol.com)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Carroll" <RonCarr(at)qwest.net> |
| Subject: | fixed pitch prop question |
My 6A has a history of low climb & low cruise RPM and high oil temps. My
mechanic, neighbors and friends have exhausted every means we can think of,
to no avail. I have a Lycoming O320-H2AD ( I really don't need negative
feedback regarding the choice of engines ), and had it overhauled 43 hours
ago. I hoped the overhaul would solve some of the problems, as it was in
pretty poor condition. The overhaul made absolutely no difference in either
RPM or high oil temp.
I changed to a larger oil cooler, no change. I then made a nice plenum for
the oil cooler, no change. I replaced the engine baffle seals, which made a
slight change in oil temp. These things, along with many other minor
things which were tried to satisfy various suggestions made by interested
onlookers.
The final thing my mechanic suggested was to have the Sensenich metal prop
re-pitched, and recommended the prop shop in Troutdale, Oregon. I flew the
plane, recorded some data I thought the shop would need in order to make the
proper change. I was disappointed to find that the prop shop didn't want
the data, they just need to know if I want better climb or cruise, I can't
have both. They can add or remove pitch, whatever I say I need or want.
They said that 1" pitch change would make about 25 to 35 RPM difference, so
how much more or less RPM do I want under what condition? What I need is
better climb (lower oil temp), and better cruise (?) at a higher RPM. The
engine may go faster, but the plane may not. This means poor fuel economy.
Broadly speaking, here are the performance figures I get:
RPM MP Throttle IAS Altitude Oil
2200 22.8 WOT climb 100 kts sea level 77C
2240 22.8 WOT climb 110 kts contin. climb 98C
2390 25.8 WOT 138 kts 3000' 100C
2410 25.7 WOT 142 kts 3000' 100C
2040 19.4 econ cruise 124 kts 3000' 100C
2000 18.9 " " 115 kts 3000' 99C
I know this is not very well arranged, nor is it very scientific, but its
what I have for now. My friends with RVs claim that I should get better
performance than this, both in air speed and RPM. My mechanic believes the
high oil temps are due to too much pitch. The engine can never get into the
160 HP range. "It is working too hard and creating heat, like driving your
car up hill in overdrive all the time.", he said.
My question is this: Has anyone re-pitched their prop to gain RPM? If so,
did it negatively affect your WOT cruise speed? Did it affect your oil
temp? Do I have any other options (again, don't mention the engine, I've
heard them all) ?
This thing should fly better than this!!!
Ron Carroll
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robbie Attaway" <robbie(at)attawayair.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fixed pitch prop question |
Hi Ron, Where did you get the engine? Was it on a flying a flying plane before
you got it? Who overhauled it for you? The reason I ask is because I have seen
new cams that had the timing marked incorrectly. One of those engines would not
turn full RPMs but still ran and was flown about 3 hours.
Robbie
----- Original Message -----
From: Ron Carroll
To: rv6-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, October 30, 2005 2:27 PM
Subject: RV6-List: fixed pitch prop question
My 6A has a history of low climb & low cruise RPM and high oil temps. My mechanic,
neighbors and friends have exhausted every means we can think of, to no
avail. I have a Lycoming O320-H2AD ( I really don't need negative feedback
regarding the choice of engines ), and had it overhauled 43 hours ago. I hoped
the overhaul would solve some of the problems, as it was in pretty poor condition.
The overhaul made absolutely no difference in either RPM or high oil
temp.
I changed to a larger oil cooler, no change. I then made a nice plenum for the
oil cooler, no change. I replaced the engine baffle seals, which made a slight
change in oil temp. These things, along with many other minor things which
were tried to satisfy various suggestions made by interested onlookers.
The final thing my mechanic suggested was to have the Sensenich metal prop re-pitched,
and recommended the prop shop in Troutdale, Oregon. I flew the plane,
recorded some data I thought the shop would need in order to make the proper
change. I was disappointed to find that the prop shop didn't want the data,
they just need to know if I want better climb or cruise, I can't have both.
They can add or remove pitch, whatever I say I need or want. They said that 1"
pitch change would make about 25 to 35 RPM difference, so how much more or less
RPM do I want under what condition? What I need is better climb (lower oil
temp), and better cruise (?) at a higher RPM. The engine may go faster, but
the plane may not. This means poor fuel economy.
Broadly speaking, here are the performance figures I get:
RPM MP Throttle IAS Altitude Oil
2200 22.8 WOT climb 100 kts sea level 77C
2240 22.8 WOT climb 110 kts contin. climb 98C
2390 25.8 WOT 138 kts 3000' 100C
2410 25.7 WOT 142 kts 3000' 100C
2040 19.4 econ cruise 124 kts 3000' 100C
2000 18.9 " " 115 kts 3000' 99C
I know this is not very well arranged, nor is it very scientific, but its what
I have for now. My friends with RVs claim that I should get better performance
than this, both in air speed and RPM. My mechanic believes the high oil temps
are due to too much pitch. The engine can never get into the 160 HP range.
"It is working too hard and creating heat, like driving your car up hill in
overdrive all the time.", he said.
My question is this: Has anyone re-pitched their prop to gain RPM? If so, did
it negatively affect your WOT cruise speed? Did it affect your oil temp?
Do I have any other options (again, don't mention the engine, I've heard them
all) ?
This thing should fly better than this!!!
Ron Carroll
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Carroll" <RonCarr(at)qwest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: fixed pitch prop question |
Robbie, I am not the builder of this plane, but he is a neighbor. He bought
the engine from a company in British Columbia. They sold it to the builder
as a fresh overhaul. I won't go into a lot of explanation here on the
list, but I will say that at only 100 hours SMOH I had to have it overhauled
by a local IA, as the whole engine was 'worn out' with inside measurements
far out of specified overhaul limits. The cam was yellow tagged by a
rebuilder here in Oregon at the time of the local OH.
Because of the less than satisfactory performance the ignition timing, as
well as the valve timing has been checked several times by my OH-IA. This
would lead me to believe that the cam is properly timed.
Thanks for your thoughts, and I hope everyone on the list appreciates my
dilemma.
Ron Carroll
----- Original Message -----
From: Robbie Attaway
To: rv6-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, October 30, 2005 1:46 PM
Subject: Re: RV6-List: fixed pitch prop question
Hi Ron, Where did you get the engine? Was it on a flying a flying plane
before you got it? Who overhauled it for you? The reason I ask is because I
have seen new cams that had the timing marked incorrectly. One of those
engines would not turn full RPMs but still ran and was flown about 3 hours.
Robbie
----- Original Message -----
From: Ron Carroll
To: rv6-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, October 30, 2005 2:27 PM
Subject: RV6-List: fixed pitch prop question
My 6A has a history of low climb & low cruise RPM and high oil temps.
My mechanic, neighbors and friends have exhausted every means we can think
of, to no avail. I have a Lycoming O320-H2AD ( I really don't need
negative feedback regarding the choice of engines ), and had it overhauled
43 hours ago. I hoped the overhaul would solve some of the problems, as it
was in pretty poor condition. The overhaul made absolutely no difference in
either RPM or high oil temp.
I changed to a larger oil cooler, no change. I then made a nice plenum
for the oil cooler, no change. I replaced the engine baffle seals, which
made a slight change in oil temp. These things, along with many other
minor things which were tried to satisfy various suggestions made by
interested onlookers.
The final thing my mechanic suggested was to have the Sensenich metal
prop re-pitched, and recommended the prop shop in Troutdale, Oregon. I flew
the plane, recorded some data I thought the shop would need in order to make
the proper change. I was disappointed to find that the prop shop didn't
want the data, they just need to know if I want better climb or cruise, I
can't have both. They can add or remove pitch, whatever I say I need or
want. They said that 1" pitch change would make about 25 to 35 RPM
difference, so how much more or less RPM do I want under what condition?
What I need is better climb (lower oil temp), and better cruise (?) at a
higher RPM. The engine may go faster, but the plane may not. This means
poor fuel economy.
Broadly speaking, here are the performance figures I get:
RPM MP Throttle IAS Altitude Oil
2200 22.8 WOT climb 100 kts sea level 77C
2240 22.8 WOT climb 110 kts contin. climb 98C
2390 25.8 WOT 138 kts 3000' 100C
2410 25.7 WOT 142 kts 3000' 100C
2040 19.4 econ cruise 124 kts 3000' 100C
2000 18.9 " " 115 kts 3000' 99C
I know this is not very well arranged, nor is it very scientific, but
its what I have for now. My friends with RVs claim that I should get better
performance than this, both in air speed and RPM. My mechanic believes the
high oil temps are due to too much pitch. The engine can never get into the
160 HP range. "It is working too hard and creating heat, like driving your
car up hill in overdrive all the time.", he said.
My question is this: Has anyone re-pitched their prop to gain RPM? If
so, did it negatively affect your WOT cruise speed? Did it affect your oil
temp? Do I have any other options (again, don't mention the engine, I've
heard them all) ?
This thing should fly better than this!!!
Ron Carroll
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
| Subject: | Re: fixed pitch prop question |
Ron:
You should certainly be able to get more than 2410 RPM at WOT and 3000 feet. I
think your mechanic's hypothesis is quite reasonable (i.e. that the prop has
too much pitch and is not allowing the engine to get to full power).
What pitch is the prop now? At 2410 RPM and 140 knots your theoretical,
no-slip pitch is 70.6 inches. So if that's about what your pitch is then the
problem isn't pitch, it's that the engine isn't making full power. On the
other hand, if your pitch is much higher, say 80 inches, then you're getting
huge slip and the problem probably is the prop.
I like Robbie Attaway's hypothesis about the cam timing. I've seen that
mistake made with car engines (in fact, I've done it). Having the ignition
advance way off could do it, too. Neither of those would explain the high oil
temperature, but that could be unrelated.
You can estimate the pitch change by calculating,
1200 x knots / (oldpitch x newpitch)
where pitch is in inches. But if the pitch change results in a speed increase
then the RPM increase will be slightly more than what you calculate.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | fixed pitch prop question |
If you haven't done so, I'd check all the obvious engine specs again -
use the manual, trust nothing. Like Robbie, we had a local RV with the
cam off by one tooth. Another chasing similar poor performance
ultimately found the tach off by 200 rpm. I'd also check carb model, jet
#'s and actual measurements, throttle plate position, fuel flow, etc.
Any chance of swapping props with someone else? It does sound over
pitched. Are you certain it's the O-320 prop and not the O-360 model? Do
you know what the pitch is currently so you can compare it to other
O-320 RV-6's? Before you repitch, keep in mind there is a limit to the
total inches of pitch change (8 IIRC) allowed. Good hunting.
Greg Young
________________________________
From: owner-rv6-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv6-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Carroll
Sent: Sunday, October 30, 2005 4:24 PM
To: rv6-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV6-List: fixed pitch prop question
=09
=09
Robbie, I am not the builder of this plane, but he is a
neighbor. He bought the engine from a company in British Columbia.
They sold it to the builder as a fresh overhaul. I won't go into a lot
of explanation here on the list, but I will say that at only 100 hours
SMOH I had to have it overhauled by a local IA, as the whole engine was
'worn out' with inside measurements far out of specified overhaul
limits. The cam was yellow tagged by a rebuilder here in Oregon at the
time of the local OH.
Because of the less than satisfactory performance the ignition
timing, as well as the valve timing has been checked several times by my
OH-IA. This would lead me to believe that the cam is properly timed.
Thanks for your thoughts, and I hope everyone on the list
appreciates my dilemma.
Ron Carroll
----- Original Message -----
From: Robbie Attaway <mailto:robbie(at)attawayair.com>
To: rv6-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, October 30, 2005 1:46 PM
Subject: Re: RV6-List: fixed pitch prop question
Hi Ron, Where did you get the engine? Was it on a flying
a flying plane before you got it? Who overhauled it for you? The reason
I ask is because I have seen new cams that had the timing marked
incorrectly. One of those engines would not turn full RPMs but still ran
and was flown about 3 hours.
Robbie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rv6fly <rv6fly(at)bresnan.net> |
| Subject: | Re: fixed pitch prop question |
Ron Carroll wrote:
> My question is this: Has anyone re-pitched their prop to gain RPM?
> If so, did it negatively affect your WOT cruise speed? Did it affect
> your oil temp? Do I have any other options (again, don't mention the
> engine, I've heard them all) ?
>
>
> Ron Carroll
Ron,
I found the following in the archive and hope it might shed a bit of
light on your problem. I didn't have a oil temp problem. My cooler was
mounted in the floor right behind the left inlet and worked very well.
I had to put an adjustable door that I could close for winter flying. I
had a spreadsheet somehwhere of the performance tests on my wood and
then the before and after re-pitch on the Sensenich but have no idea
where it is. On some old computer in the basement I'd reckon. "In the
old days" it seems like everyone tried to pitch the prop so you would be
a max rpms at wide open throttle at 7,500 feet. This would give you 75%
power. This is how I finally set up my prop and it worked well on my RV6.
Bob Skinner
* I am building an RV-6a with an O320-E2D 150hp engine and plan on using a
>Sensenich prop. It seems to be available in 4 pitch increments (75, 76, 77
>and 79). Has anyone evaluated a -6A with these props and 150hp and, if so,
>can you share your experiences/results? We want to get the most out of the
>150hp and I reckon that either the 76 or the 77 inch pitch will be the best
>compomise for climb/cruise but I am curious to know how much one loses in
>climb/gains in cruise with the 79 inch prop. I also expect that the 75 inch
>pitch will reach the 2600 rpm limit quickly and sufer in cruise because of
>it.
>
>Dave Irwin
Dave,
I'm using the Sensenich prop on my 150 hp RV-6. I started with the
recommeded 77 pitch and ended up reducing the pitch to just tad under 75.
My idea was to pitch the prop so that at 7,500-8,000 feet, I can operate at
full throttle for best fuel/air distribution (because the carb butterfly is
parallel to the fuel/air mixture) and not exceed the 2,600 rpm redline. The
reduction in pitch did improve takeoff and climb a bit. Why would you
suffer in cruise when running at 2,600 rpms? Doesn't rpms = h.p. and h.p. speed?
You could improve take off and climb by reducing pitch further but
would have to throttle back quite a bit in cruise.
BTW, I had a wood prop on for a few hundred yours and then went to the
Sensenich. My next six will have a constant speed. I hate like the dickens
to spend the bucks but it's also frustrating to mess around with different
props trying to fine tune performance. With a constant speed, you get
maximum h.p. on take off which means you can climb to a safe altitude in
case the engine quits and can clear obstructions. Besides, I'm getting
tired of watching those show off constant speed guys blast off while I do my
fixed pitched, shallow climb out:)*
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | fixed pitch prop question |
This is not totally unrelated so I thought I'd share. I had a 172 with a
climb prop that cruised at 115 mph at 2350 RPM. I had another one the
same year model and the same engine with a cruise prop. That one cruised
at 125 mph at 2350 rpm's. The plane with the cruise prop burned at least
1 gallon per hour more than the climb prop at the same rpm. Overall I
liked the climb prop much better.
Jim Wright RV-9A 90919 Arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Leonard <wdleonard(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fixed pitch prop question |
Ron,
You have gotten some great input so far on this thread. Someone asked you
to compare the existing pitch to your performance and that is great advice
to see if the problem is your prop. You also need to compare your fuel burn
to you apparent power output (based on speed - keeping in mind that your
speed is relatively slow). Poor BSFC would indicate an internal engine
problem, despite the recent re-built (mistakes to happen during a rebuild).
This could also explain increased oil temps.
But looking at the numbers you posted the problem seems clear to me that
you are not getting the manifold pressure you should be getting. In at 100kt
climb at SL your MP should be greater than the altimeter setting. There is
something wrong with the way air is getting into your engine. Assuming you
would have found any obvious blockage, the problem could also be a strange
boundary layer problem. Airflow problems could also cause the oil temp
problem...
Good luck.
--
Dave Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY (fixed pitch and happy with it)
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/rotaryroster/index.html
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/vp4skydoc/index.html
On 10/30/05, Ron Carroll wrote:
>
> My 6A has a history of low climb & low cruise RPM and high oil temps. My
> mechanic, Roneighbors and friends have exhausted every means we can think
> of, to no avail. I have a Lycoming O320-H2AD ( I really don't need negative
> feedback regarding the choice of engines ), and had it overhauled 43 hours
> ago. I hoped the overhaul would solve some of the problems, as it was in
> pretty poor condition. The overhaul made absolutely no difference in
> either RPM or high oil temp.
> I changed to a larger oil cooler, no change. I then made a nice plenum
> for the oil cooler, no change. I replaced the engine baffle seals, which
> made a slight change in oil temp. These things, along with many other minor
> things which were tried to satisfy various suggestions made by interested
> onlookers.
> The final thing my mechanic suggested was to have the Sensenich metal
> prop re-pitched, and recommended the prop shop in Troutdale, Oregon. I flew
> the plane, recorded some data I thought the shop would need in order to make
> the proper change. I was disappointed to find that the prop shop didn't want
> the data, they just need to know if I want better climb or cruise, I can't
> have both. They can add or remove pitch, whatever I say I need or want. They
> said that 1" pitch change would make about 25 to 35 RPM difference, so how
> much more or less RPM do I want under what condition? What I need is better
> climb (lower oil temp), and better cruise (?) at a higher RPM. The engine
> may go faster, but the plane may not. This means poor fuel economy.
> Broadly speaking, here are the performance figures I get:
> *RPM* *MP* *Throttle* *IAS* *Altitude* *Oil*
> **
> 2200 22.8 WOT climb 100 kts sea level 77C
> 2240 22.8 WOT climb 110 kts contin. climb 98C
> 2390 25.8 WOT 138 kts 3000' 100C
> 2410 25.7 WOT 142 kts 3000' 100C
> 2040 19.4 econ cruise 124 kts 3000' 100C
> 2000 18.9 " " 115 kts 3000' 99C
> I know this is not very well arranged, nor is it very scientific, but its
> what I have for now. My friends with RVs claim that I should get better
> performance than this, both in air speed and RPM. My mechanic believes the
> high oil temps are due to too much pitch. The engine can never get into the
> 160 HP range. "It is working too hard and creating heat, like driving your
> car up hill in overdrive all the time.", he said.
> My question is this: Has anyone re-pitched their prop to gain RPM? If so,
> did it negatively affect your WOT cruise speed? Did it affect your oil temp?
> Do I have any other options (again, don't mention the engine, I've heard
> them all) ?
> This thing should fly better than this!!!
> Ron Carroll
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WPAerial(at)aol.com |
does anyone else have the brake caliber leak when the pads wares out?
as soon as the pad gets almost to the rivets the piston (hockey puck thing)
is close enough to full throw, the o-ring begins to leak. one good thing about
this is it tells me the brakes need replaced, but is it supposed to happen?
jerry wilken
rv6a n699wp
370 hours
albany oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robbie Attaway" <robbie(at)attawayair.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fixed pitch prop question |
Ron, Call me at 602-538-6087 and I can tell you how to check the cam timing without
pulling the engine apart.
Robbie
----- Original Message -----
From: Ron Carroll
To: rv6-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, October 30, 2005 3:23 PM
Subject: Re: RV6-List: fixed pitch prop question
Robbie, I am not the builder of this plane, but he is a neighbor. He bought
the engine from a company in British Columbia. They sold it to the builder as
a fresh overhaul. I won't go into a lot of explanation here on the list, but
I will say that at only 100 hours SMOH I had to have it overhauled by a local
IA, as the whole engine was 'worn out' with inside measurements far out of specified
overhaul limits. The cam was yellow tagged by a rebuilder here in Oregon
at the time of the local OH.
Because of the less than satisfactory performance the ignition timing, as well
as the valve timing has been checked several times by my OH-IA. This would
lead me to believe that the cam is properly timed.
Thanks for your thoughts, and I hope everyone on the list appreciates my dilemma.
Ron Carroll
----- Original Message -----
From: Robbie Attaway
To: rv6-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, October 30, 2005 1:46 PM
Subject: Re: RV6-List: fixed pitch prop question
Hi Ron, Where did you get the engine? Was it on a flying a flying plane before
you got it? Who overhauled it for you? The reason I ask is because I have
seen new cams that had the timing marked incorrectly. One of those engines would
not turn full RPMs but still ran and was flown about 3 hours.
Robbie
----- Original Message -----
From: Ron Carroll
To: rv6-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, October 30, 2005 2:27 PM
Subject: RV6-List: fixed pitch prop question
My 6A has a history of low climb & low cruise RPM and high oil temps. My
mechanic, neighbors and friends have exhausted every means we can think of, to
no avail. I have a Lycoming O320-H2AD ( I really don't need negative feedback
regarding the choice of engines ), and had it overhauled 43 hours ago.
I hoped the overhaul would solve some of the problems, as it was in pretty poor
condition. The overhaul made absolutely no difference in either RPM or high
oil temp.
I changed to a larger oil cooler, no change. I then made a nice plenum for
the oil cooler, no change. I replaced the engine baffle seals, which made
a slight change in oil temp. These things, along with many other minor things
which were tried to satisfy various suggestions made by interested onlookers.
The final thing my mechanic suggested was to have the Sensenich metal prop
re-pitched, and recommended the prop shop in Troutdale, Oregon. I flew the
plane, recorded some data I thought the shop would need in order to make the proper
change. I was disappointed to find that the prop shop didn't want the data,
they just need to know if I want better climb or cruise, I can't have both.
They can add or remove pitch, whatever I say I need or want. They said that
1" pitch change would make about 25 to 35 RPM difference, so how much more
or less RPM do I want under what condition? What I need is better climb (lower
oil temp), and better cruise (?) at a higher RPM. The engine may go faster,
but the plane may not. This means poor fuel economy.
Broadly speaking, here are the performance figures I get:
RPM MP Throttle IAS Altitude Oil
2200 22.8 WOT climb 100 kts sea level 77C
2240 22.8 WOT climb 110 kts contin. climb 98C
2390 25.8 WOT 138 kts 3000' 100C
2410 25.7 WOT 142 kts 3000' 100C
2040 19.4 econ cruise 124 kts 3000' 100C
2000 18.9 " " 115 kts 3000' 99C
I know this is not very well arranged, nor is it very scientific, but its
what I have for now. My friends with RVs claim that I should get better performance
than this, both in air speed and RPM. My mechanic believes the high oil
temps are due to too much pitch. The engine can never get into the 160 HP range.
"It is working too hard and creating heat, like driving your car up hill
in overdrive all the time.", he said.
My question is this: Has anyone re-pitched their prop to gain RPM? If so,
did it negatively affect your WOT cruise speed? Did it affect your oil temp?
Do I have any other options (again, don't mention the engine, I've heard them
all) ?
This thing should fly better than this!!!
Ron Carroll
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Carroll" <RonCarr(at)qwest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: fixed pitch prop question |
This is in response to the latest message, which is from David Leonard, but
I'd also like to make comments to others that are generous enough to offer
some suggestions on my problem(s).
Tedd McHenry -
The pitch on my prop is 79". I had changed from 80" to 79" thinking it
would make a difference, but the difference was not noticeable to me. I
like the idea of calculating by using an equation, as you suggest, but I
just want to make sure I understand your formula. You say '1200 times
knots,divided by old pitch x newpitch' equal estimated pitch change. I
tried this: 1200 X 160 kts divided by 79"X75" , and the answer is "32.40".
What is this? I'll have to ask a couple of dumb questions: What is the
significance of the '1200'? Next, what 'knots'? cruise? I should be able
to figure this out, but its easier to ask. So, by using this, I should get
a good ballpark pitch by plugging in different 'newpitch' numbers. BTW, my
fuel burn at WOT was right at 8.5 gph.
Greg Young -
This problem has plagued me for over a year. EVERYTHING has been checked
and rechecked, according to the book. My IA checked to be sure I have the
correct carb & jets, the cam was checked, as was the ignition timing & valve
timing. I wish there was someone with a Sensenich prop in the pitch range
that I think I may wind up, but alas I don't. I can get the prop re-pitched
for $200, and it can be re-pitched again if necessary for another $200, so I
hope to get it close in the first try or two.
Bob Skinner -
You refer to a fellow that has a similar situation. One passage mentioned,
"Why would you suffer in cruise when running at 2,600 rpms? Doesn't rpms h.p.
and h.p. = speed? You could improve take off and climb by reducing
pitch further but would have to throttle back quite a bit in cruise." This
was my question; If I were to reduce the pitch so that the engine could
reach 2600 in cruise, will I suffer in speed because the prop isn't taking
as big a bite?
I like your preference of a constant speed prop, but the cost is more than I
care to spend. There are a LOT of happy campers flying fixed pitch props,
only sacrificing a little in climb.
Jim Wright -
You mention that your 172 actually got a higher cruise with less pitch, and
burned less fuel??? That's what I want!! Can I expect to fly faster and
burn less fuel with less pitch? The variables are too many for a guy like
me to be able to figure it out. I'm hoping that Tedd's formula will give me
a better idea.
David Leonard -
David, yours has me the most puzzled. You say that I should compare
existing pitch with performance. I don't understand this one at all. Also,
I can't understand how I can get higher manifold pressure that the altimeter
setting without using a blower. Could it be because of the ram effect of
the intake air scoop? If so, wouldn't it always be higher at WOT? Another
thing I don't know is 'BSFC'. I just Googled it, and find that it is 'Brake
Specific Fuel Consumption', the ratio of fuel consumed (in lbs. per hour) to
horsepower produced. I'm lost!
I want to thank all of you who have so promptly responded to my questions.
I'm not sure I have THE answer yet, but I'll hope that the pieces will start
to fit. I'd like to know what pitch everyone else with the same
plane/engine/prop (RV-6A, O320-H2AD-160, Sensenich metal prop (68x79))
combination are using successfully. I just want to re-pitch if necessary,
and get it close to right the first time. I would also like to know if a
flatter pitch will cost me in cruise (it can't go much slower).
Ron Carroll -
----- Original Message -----
From: David Leonard
To: rv6-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, October 30, 2005 5:15 PM
Subject: Re: RV6-List: fixed pitch prop question
Ron,
You have gotten some great input so far on this thread. Someone asked you
to compare the existing pitch to your performance and that is great advice
to see if the problem is your prop. You also need to compare your fuel burn
to you apparent power output (based on speed - keeping in mind that your
speed is relatively slow). Poor BSFC would indicate an internal engine
problem, despite the recent re-built (mistakes to happen during a rebuild).
This could also explain increased oil temps.
But looking at the numbers you posted the problem seems clear to me that
you are not getting the manifold pressure you should be getting. In at
100kt climb at SL your MP should be greater than the altimeter setting.
There is something wrong with the way air is getting into your engine.
Assuming you would have found any obvious blockage, the problem could also
be a strange boundary layer problem. Airflow problems could also cause the
oil temp problem...
Good luck.
--
Dave Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY (fixed pitch and happy with it)
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/rotaryroster/index.html
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/vp4skydoc/index.html
On 10/30/05, Ron Carroll wrote:
My 6A has a history of low climb & low cruise RPM and high oil temps.
My mechanic, Roneighbors and friends have exhausted every means we can think
of, to no avail. I have a Lycoming O320-H2AD ( I really don't need
negative feedback regarding the choice of engines ), and had it overhauled
43 hours ago. I hoped the overhaul would solve some of the problems, as it
was in pretty poor condition. The overhaul made absolutely no difference in
either RPM or high oil temp.
I changed to a larger oil cooler, no change. I then made a nice plenum
for the oil cooler, no change. I replaced the engine baffle seals, which
made a slight change in oil temp. These things, along with many other
minor things which were tried to satisfy various suggestions made by
interested onlookers.
The final thing my mechanic suggested was to have the Sensenich metal
prop re-pitched, and recommended the prop shop in Troutdale, Oregon. I flew
the plane, recorded some data I thought the shop would need in order to make
the proper change. I was disappointed to find that the prop shop didn't
want the data, they just need to know if I want better climb or cruise, I
can't have both. They can add or remove pitch, whatever I say I need or
want. They said that 1" pitch change would make about 25 to 35 RPM
difference, so how much more or less RPM do I want under what condition?
What I need is better climb (lower oil temp), and better cruise (?) at a
higher RPM. The engine may go faster, but the plane may not. This means
poor fuel economy.
Broadly speaking, here are the performance figures I get:
RPM MP Throttle IAS Altitude Oil
2200 22.8 WOT climb 100 kts sea level 77C
2240 22.8 WOT climb 110 kts contin. climb 98C
2390 25.8 WOT 138 kts 3000' 100C
2410 25.7 WOT 142 kts 3000' 100C
2040 19.4 econ cruise 124 kts 3000' 100C
2000 18.9 " " 115 kts 3000' 99C
I know this is not very well arranged, nor is it very scientific, but
its what I have for now. My friends with RVs claim that I should get better
performance than this, both in air speed and RPM. My mechanic believes the
high oil temps are due to too much pitch. The engine can never get into the
160 HP range. "It is working too hard and creating heat, like driving your
car up hill in overdrive all the time.", he said.
My question is this: Has anyone re-pitched their prop to gain RPM? If
so, did it negatively affect your WOT cruise speed? Did it affect your oil
temp? Do I have any other options (again, don't mention the engine, I've
heard them all) ?
This thing should fly better than this!!!
Ron Carroll
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dick DeCramer" <diesel(at)rconnect.com> |
Jerry,
I remember a few years ago that I had to pull the pistons on my brakes to determine
if the o-ring groove was machined properly to prevent o-ring blowout. The
problem is I can't remember where I got the information alerting me to the problem.
I did check vansaircraft.com but nothing is there but it might be a manufacturers
bulletin or an AD. I think some of the pistons had an groove machined
off center which could be what you have. Some of you other listers remember
anything about this? You may want to call the manufacturer for more info.
Dick DeCramer
RV6 N500DD
95 hours
Minnesota
----- Original Message -----
From:
Subject: RV6-List: Re: brake leak?
does anyone else have the brake caliber leak when the pads wares out?
as soon as the pad gets almost to the rivets the piston (hockey puck thing) is
close enough to full throw, the o-ring begins to leak. one good thing about this
is it tells me the brakes need replaced, but is it supposed to happen?
jerry wilken
rv6a n699wp
370 hours
albany oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WPAerial(at)aol.com |
afew years ago thay had some pistons put in backwards. that is not the case
with mine.
jerry wilken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
| Subject: | Re: fixed pitch prop question |
Ron:
Sorry, looking back on my post I see that what I said was very unclear. The
formula estimates RPM change per inch of pitch change. In other words, the
value you calculated (32.4) is how much the RPM would change for each inch of
pitch change. The 1200 is a constant that factors in the odd mix of units
(revolutions per minute, nautical miles per hour, and inches of pitch). It's
actually 1216, but 1200 is close enough.
But that formula only works for pitch changes of 1 inch at a time. It might be
better to calculate the "no slip" speed for your prop and compare it to what
you're actually getting.
speed = RPM x pitch / 1216
By that calculation, your 79" pitch prop would give you 157 knots at 2410 RPM,
with no slip at all. Your measured speed was 142, so that's about 10 percent
slip. I think that's on the high side for cruise conditions, lending support
to the theory that you have too much pitch. But it's hard to get good
information on how much slip is typical.
The no-slip pitch that gives 142 knots at 2410 RPM is 71.6 inches. I'm
guessing the ideal pitch for your airplane is somewhere between where you are
(79") and 71.6".
But I think you should assure yourself that the engine isn't the problem,
before you re-pitch the prop. I agree with what Dave Leonard said about your
manifold pressure sounding low. Could you have an intake restriction of some
kind? Does the throttle actually open all the way? (Dumb question, I know,
but it happens.)
Tedd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Leonard <wdleonard(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fixed pitch prop question |
Ron,
David Leonard -
> David, yours has me the most puzzled. You say that I should compare
> existing pitch with performance. I don't understand this one at all.
>
I was just agreeing with Tedd McHenry. There is a formula (and some
spreadsheets you can use) to calculate approximate performance based on prop
pitch and RPM. If you are finding that you are significantly off from this
performance, then the problem is either a significant increase in drag, or a
poorly designed propeller (not just the pitch)
Also, I can't understand how I can get higher manifold pressure that the
> altimeter setting without using a blower. Could it be because of the ram
> effect of the intake air scoop? If so, wouldn't it always be higher at WOT?
>
Correct. At a minimum, running static at sea level you should be seeing a
manifold pressure of 27 or 28 (slightly less than the altimeter setting).
Most RV's have a dynamic plenum to recover aerodynamic pressure that gives
an additional 1-2 inches. Even if your engine is run out and the propeller
is poorly pitched you should be seeing the appropriate manifold pressure.
IMHO, if those numbers you sent are correct, the problem is an air
restriction somewhere - no doubt about it.
Another thing I don't know is 'BSFC'. I just Googled it, and find that it
> is 'Brake Specific Fuel Consumption', the ratio of fuel consumed (in lbs.
> per hour) to horsepower produced. I'm lost!
>
Correct. What I mean is that if the problem is the pitch of your prop(or an
air restriction for that matter), then it shouldn't change your BSFC (i.e.
you should be burning an amount of fuel appropriate for the horse power you
are producing). There will be a natural variation in BSFC between engines
airplanes and propellers, but that variation is usually not a huge amount.
If you are burning more fuel than you should be for the speed you are
getting, then there is still a serious problem with you engine or carb.
How do you tell? The best way is to do a head to head comparison with a
similarly configured RV flying the same route at the same speed at the same
time. Carefully measure fuel burned in both aircraft and it should be
roughly the same.
If you don't have another RV to use you can compare your performance to
Vans published numbers.... or numbers published in the archives... you get
the idea.
But I still think your problem is some sort of air restriction.
>
> --
> Dave Leonard
> Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
> http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/rotaryroster/index.html
> http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/vp4skydoc/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Taylor" <mtaylo17(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV6-List Digest: 15 Msgs - 10/30/05 |
Ron,
This might sound a daft question, but is the plane completely finished, with
all the wheel fairings on and everything?
A friend of mine thought he had similar problems, with his plane being a
good 20mph slower and an inability to get full engine rpm in climb and
cruise. It turned out to be all the extra drag from no fairings!
Mark.
www.4sierratango.com
From: "Ron Carroll" <RonCarr(at)qwest.net>
Subject: RV6-List: fixed pitch prop question
My 6A has a history of low climb & low cruise RPM and high oil temps. My
mechanic, neighbors and friends have exhausted every means we can think of,
to no avail. I have a Lycoming O320-H2AD ( I really don't need negative
feedback regarding the choice of engines ), and had it overhauled 43 hours
ago. I hoped the overhaul would solve some of the problems, as it was in
pretty poor condition. The overhaul made absolutely no difference in either
RPM or high oil temp.
I changed to a larger oil cooler, no change. I then made a nice plenum for
the oil cooler, no change. I replaced the engine baffle seals, which made a
slight change in oil temp. These things, along with many other minor
things which were tried to satisfy various suggestions made by interested
onlookers.
The final thing my mechanic suggested was to have the Sensenich metal prop
re-pitched, and recommended the prop shop in Troutdale, Oregon. I flew the
plane, recorded some data I thought the shop would need in order to make the
proper change. I was disappointed to find that the prop shop didn't want
the data, they just need to know if I want better climb or cruise, I can't
have both. They can add or remove pitch, whatever I say I need or want.
They said that 1" pitch change would make about 25 to 35 RPM difference, so
how much more or less RPM do I want under what condition? What I need is
better climb (lower oil temp), and better cruise (?) at a higher RPM. The
engine may go faster, but the plane may not. This means poor fuel economy.
Broadly speaking, here are the performance figures I get:
RPM MP Throttle IAS Altitude Oil
2200 22.8 WOT climb 100 kts sea level 77C
2240 22.8 WOT climb 110 kts contin. climb 98C
2390 25.8 WOT 138 kts 3000' 100C
2410 25.7 WOT 142 kts 3000' 100C
2040 19.4 econ cruise 124 kts 3000' 100C
2000 18.9 " " 115 kts 3000' 99C
I know this is not very well arranged, nor is it very scientific, but its
what I have for now. My friends with RVs claim that I should get better
performance than this, both in air speed and RPM. My mechanic believes the
high oil temps are due to too much pitch. The engine can never get into the
160 HP range. "It is working too hard and creating heat, like driving your
car up hill in overdrive all the time.", he said.
My question is this: Has anyone re-pitched their prop to gain RPM? If so,
did it negatively affect your WOT cruise speed? Did it affect your oil
temp? Do I have any other options (again, don't mention the engine, I've
heard them all) ?
This thing should fly better than this!!!
Ron Carroll
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | fixed pitch prop question |
September 28, 2003 - October 31, 2005
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