RV8-Archive.digest.vol-ah
December 05, 2004 - June 23, 2005
>that is actually what my problem is??
>
>Greg
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rodney Daulton
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV8-List: Van's electric tachometer
>
>
>RV8 Friends....I have been having lots of problems with the Van's 2 1/4
>in electric tachometer. I have had two sender failures. What if any
>has been your experience with these tachometers. Thanks very
>much....Rod Daulton
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Van's electric tach |
We had a problem with Van's 2 1/4" electric tach, starting with app. 30 hrs
on the aircraft. Van's did replace the tach generator, but same problem emerged
after app. 5 hrs.The needle would just flop around intermittently or drop to
zero. The fix was to ground the shield on the wire bundle from the tach
generator to the tach. (Van's instructions for the tach say it is not necessary
to
ground the shield) Steady as a rock ever since.
Sam
RV-8 N708J
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Rodney Daulton <farmerrd(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Subject: | Re: Van's electric tachometer |
Jonathan Weiswasser wrote:
Interesting....I had a failure at about 30h. Have 35h on the new one
without problem. how many hours did you get out of each of your senders
before they failed?
Jon Weiswasser
N898JW
RV-8
Greg Hunsicker wrote:
>
>I also have a Vans 2 1/4 electric tach that drops out on long hauls. I
>purchased a new tach but have not installed it yet. I am unfamiliar
>with what the sender looks like or where it might be located. I suppose
>that is actually what my problem is??
>
>Greg
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rodney Daulton
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV8-List: Van's electric tachometer
>
>
>RV8 Friends....I have been having lots of problems with the Van's 2 1/4
>in electric tachometer. I have had two sender failures. What if any
>has been your experience with these tachometers. Thanks very
>much....Rod Daulton
Jon....thanks for your reply. I was so dissapointed with the tack from Van's that
I bought a Electronics International tack. I hope it solves my problem....Rod
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Subject: | Where to put the front fresh air vent |
Hey RV-8 builders and fliers,
Where are you putting or where did you put your front-seat fresh air vent? I
am thinking of putting it in the panel, all the way to the left, just above
the manual trim knob. Will use Van's size large black plastic eyeball vent.
Steve Soule
Swanton, Vermont
Where to put the front fresh air vent
Hey RV-8 builders and fliers,
Where are you putting or where did you put your front-seat fresh air vent? I am
thinking of putting it in the panel, all the way to the left, just above the
manual trim knob. Will use Van's size large black plastic eyeball vent.
Steve Soule
Swanton, Vermont
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Fuel pump/filter alternatives |
From: | Ted P Utley <tpu2(at)juno.com> |
I see numerous electric fuel pumps from the auto world that appear to
meet the
demands of the injected Bendix/Lyc, as well as fuel filters that have
stainless steel or sintered bronze elements that are in the 85 to 100
micron range. I find very little in the archives about reasons to spend
the extra $200 or so on AFP. Anyone with experience using alternative
pumps/filters, please let me know what I'm missing. Thanks
>
> Ted Utley
> 8A
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Where to put the front fresh air vent |
From: | "Greg V. Miller" <gvm3(at)cableone.net> |
I put it just under the left side panel, mounted to the left gear box.
Doesn't take up panel space and has a straight tube to the intake duct.
>
> Hey RV-8 builders and fliers,
>
> Where are you putting or where did you put your front-seat fresh air vent? I
> am thinking of putting it in the panel, all the way to the left, just above
> the manual trim knob. Will use Van's size large black plastic eyeball vent.
>
> Steve Soule
> Swanton, Vermont
>
>
>
>
>
> Where to put the front fresh air vent
>
>
> Hey RV-8 builders and fliers,
>
>
> Where are you putting or where did you put your front-seat fresh air vent? I
am thinking of putting it in the panel, all the way to the left, just above the
manual trim knob. Will use Van's size large black plastic eyeball vent.
>
>
> Steve Soule
>
> Swanton, Vermont
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | luckymacy(at)comcast.net (lucky) |
Subject: | Re: Where to put the front fresh air vent |
I hope to shoe horn mine in the left subpanel but a friend put his on the flange
of the landing gear cross brace. Allows a bit more direct air to your face
than if you were to hang it off of the gear box, according to him. I have a picture
if you want to see it.
Lucky
-------------- Original message --------------
>
> I put it just under the left side panel, mounted to the left gear box.
> Doesn't take up panel space and has a straight tube to the intake duct.
>
>
> >
> > Hey RV-8 builders and fliers,
> >
> > Where are you putting or where did you put your front-seat fresh air vent?
I
> > am thinking of putting it in the panel, all the way to the left, just above
> > the manual trim knob. Will use Van's size large black plastic eyeball vent.
> >
> > Steve Soule
> > Swanton, Vermont
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Where to put the front fresh air vent
> >
> >
> > Hey RV-8 builders and fliers,
> >
> >
> > Where are you putting or where did you put your front-seat fresh air vent?
I
> am thinking of putting it in the panel, all the way to the left, just above the
> manual trim knob. Will use Van's size large black plastic eyeball vent.
> >
> >
> > Steve Soule
> >
> > Swanton, Vermont
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
I hope to shoe horn mine in the left subpanel but a friend put his on the flange
of the landing gear cross brace. Allows a bit more direct air to your face than
if you were to hang it off of the gear box, according to him. I have a picture
if youwant to see it.
Lucky
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV8-List message posted by: "Greg V. Miller"
I put it just under the left side panel, mounted to the left gear box.
Doesn't take up panel space and has a straight tube to the intake duct.
-- RV8-List message posted by: "Stephen J. Soule"
Hey RV-8 builders and fliers,
Where are you putting or where did you put your front-seat fresh air vent? I
am thinking of putting it in the panel, all the way to the left, just above
the manual trim knob. Will use Van's size large black plastic eyeball vent.
Steve Soule
Swanton, Vermont
Where to put the front fresh air vent
Hey RV-8 builders and fliers,
Where are you putting or where did you put your front-seat fresh air vent? I
am thinking of putting it in the panel, all the way to the left, just above the
manual trim knob. Will use Van's size large black plastic eyeball vent.
Steve Soule
Swanton, Vermont
on the Matronics Forums.
=================================================
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Subject: | Where to put the front fresh air vent |
I decided to put the vent in the left panel location, too. Looks good so
far, but the panel isn't in the airplane yet. I didn't want to put it on the
cross brace or landing gear box because I thought it would hit it with my
leg getting in and out of the cockpit.
Steve
-----Original Message-----
I hope to shoe horn mine in the left subpanel but a friend put his on the
flange of the landing gear cross brace. Allows a bit more direct air to
your face than if you were to hang it off of the gear box, according to him.
I have a picture if you want to see it.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Kevin Shannon" <kshannon(at)seanet.com> |
Subject: | sheared wingtip lighting |
Kevin Shannon
Superintendent
Severson Construction, LLC
Does anyone know if there is an option available anywhere for recessed
wingtip lighting in the sheared type wingtips?
Kevin Shannon
RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: sheared wingtip lighting |
In a message dated 12/10/04 1:54:20 PM Eastern Standard Time,
kshannon(at)seanet.com writes:
> Does anyone know if there is an option available anywhere for recessed
> wingtip lighting in the sheared type wingtips?
>
> Kevin Shannon
> RV-8
>
What lights are you wanting to install?
Landing Lights ?
Nav Lights?
Strobes?
There is a kit that is LED nav with recessed Landing lights and strobes.
You can do one or the other or all three in the tip.
www.CreativAir.com
Having said this I just got 2 Duckworth Landing lights from Vans ($75ea)
with the Whelen Strobe/Nav kit.....
RV-4
RV-8 QB....wings
Sal Capra
Lakeland, FL.
My Home Page
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Kevin Shannon" <kshannon(at)seanet.com> |
Subject: | sheared wingtip lighting |
I should have been more specific, it is the recess and clear plastic
lens itself in sheared style wingtips I am looking for, all the sheared
style tips I have seen have the external type lighting on them, and the
recess/lens kit Vans sells is for the flat style tips, not the "sheared"
style.
Kevin Shannon
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV8-List: sheared wingtip lighting
In a message dated 12/10/04 1:54:20 PM Eastern Standard Time,
kshannon(at)seanet.com writes:
> Does anyone know if there is an option available anywhere for recessed
> wingtip lighting in the sheared type wingtips?
>
> Kevin Shannon
> RV-8
>
What lights are you wanting to install?
Landing Lights ?
Nav Lights?
Strobes?
There is a kit that is LED nav with recessed Landing lights and strobes.
You can do one or the other or all three in the tip.
www.CreativAir.com
Having said this I just got 2 Duckworth Landing lights from Vans ($75ea)
with the Whelen Strobe/Nav kit.....
RV-4
RV-8 QB....wings
Sal Capra
Lakeland, FL.
My Home Page
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John Huft" <rv8(at)lazy8.net> |
Subject: | sheared wingtip lighting |
Tracy Saylor's daughter makes a kit for this. If you call Massey Aircraft,
who makes the sheared tips, they have the contact info.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: Kevin Shannon [mailto:kshannon(at)seanet.com]
Subject: RE: RV8-List: sheared wingtip lighting
I should have been more specific, it is the recess and clear plastic
lens itself in sheared style wingtips I am looking for, all the sheared
style tips I have seen have the external type lighting on them, and the
recess/lens kit Vans sells is for the flat style tips, not the "sheared"
style.
Kevin Shannon
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV8-List: sheared wingtip lighting
In a message dated 12/10/04 1:54:20 PM Eastern Standard Time,
kshannon(at)seanet.com writes:
> Does anyone know if there is an option available anywhere for recessed
> wingtip lighting in the sheared type wingtips?
>
> Kevin Shannon
> RV-8
>
What lights are you wanting to install?
Landing Lights ?
Nav Lights?
Strobes?
There is a kit that is LED nav with recessed Landing lights and strobes.
You can do one or the other or all three in the tip.
www.CreativAir.com
Having said this I just got 2 Duckworth Landing lights from Vans ($75ea)
with the Whelen Strobe/Nav kit.....
RV-4
RV-8 QB....wings
Sal Capra
Lakeland, FL.
My Home Page
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com |
Subject: | sheared wingtip lighting |
The sheared wing tips supplied by Vans for my RV8 are shipped with a clear
lens which covers a recess for putting in strobe and nav lights. Just in
case this might help you.
Michle RV8 Wings
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Shannon
> Sent: Friday, December 10, 2004 10:35 PM
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV8-List: sheared wingtip lighting
>
>
> I should have been more specific, it is the recess and clear plastic
> lens itself in sheared style wingtips I am looking for, all the sheared
> style tips I have seen have the external type lighting on them, and the
> recess/lens kit Vans sells is for the flat style tips, not the "sheared"
> style.
>
> Kevin Shannon
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV8-List: sheared wingtip lighting
>
>
> In a message dated 12/10/04 1:54:20 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> kshannon(at)seanet.com writes:
>
>
> > Does anyone know if there is an option available anywhere for recessed
> > wingtip lighting in the sheared type wingtips?
> >
> > Kevin Shannon
> > RV-8
> >
>
> What lights are you wanting to install?
>
> Landing Lights ?
> Nav Lights?
> Strobes?
>
> There is a kit that is LED nav with recessed Landing lights and strobes.
> You can do one or the other or all three in the tip.
> www.CreativAir.com
>
>
> Having said this I just got 2 Duckworth Landing lights from Vans ($75ea)
> with the Whelen Strobe/Nav kit.....
>
>
> RV-4
> RV-8 QB....wings
>
> Sal Capra
> Lakeland, FL.
> My Home Page
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Greg@itmack" <greg(at)itmack.com> |
Hi all, I'm building my flaps now and I have a few questions.
1. Has anyone got some pictures of the FL406 assembly. I can't quite figure it
out from the drawings particularly how the FL-406C fits.
2. How does the flap control arm eventually fit to the flap. I have seen drawings
for the RV7 and they involve a nutplate on the inboard FL-404 rib and the
Orndorff tapes show the same but my plans don't mention it.
3. Is the FL-406B prefabricated at all, I don't have any 0.125 sheet.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Floor insulation |
Anyone using any insulation under the 830/831 floor before riveting the
thing down? If so, what type?
Thanks
P2
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Floor insulation |
The best thing to do is to make it air tight so you do not have cold drafts
blowing through. Block the read spar attach, front spars, also boots on the
aileron tubes. This will make a bigger difference IMHO.
>
>Anyone using any insulation under the 830/831 floor before riveting the
>thing down? If so, what type?
>
>Thanks
>P2
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Vince Himsl" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> |
Subject: | Floor insulation |
I used super sound proofing (3/8 I think) from Aircraft Spruce. There is an article
floating around discusing sound
proofing of aircraft. Some say its great, some say that they don't notice difference.
With 'problems getting enough heat' a
constant and recurring thread on the list, I decided to go ahead anyway.
Aircraft Spruce has a section on sound proofing aircraft products.
Regards,
Vince Himsl
RV8 - VSB Finish
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of PPlous(at)aol.com
Subject: RV8-List: Floor insulation
Anyone using any insulation under the 830/831 floor before riveting the
thing down? If so, what type?
Thanks
P2
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Kevin Shannon" <kshannon(at)seanet.com> |
Subject: | Floor insulation |
I think better airflow through the cabin is the answer. This can be done
by putting a slight suction in the tail cone. A couple of small half
round shapes laminated to the belly skin with holes drilled on the aft
side will provide a little negative pressure and also act as a drain. I
did this on my 9A and it worked well.
Kevin Shannon
RV8-QB
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vince Himsl
Subject: RE: RV8-List: Floor insulation
I used super sound proofing (3/8 I think) from Aircraft Spruce. There is
an article floating around discusing sound
proofing of aircraft. Some say its great, some say that they don't
notice difference. With 'problems getting enough heat' a
constant and recurring thread on the list, I decided to go ahead anyway.
Aircraft Spruce has a section on sound proofing aircraft products.
Regards,
Vince Himsl
RV8 - VSB Finish
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Floor insulation |
In cold weather the last thing you want is non heated airflow through the
cabin. The coldest I have flown is 12F, the drafts were very annoying. Oh,
and trust me, you dont really notice the drafts until it gets cold out,
then you wonder were all that air is coming from. Giving the air an "out"
will make for even more drafts. Sealing up the openings in and around the
cockpit to keep the air out is were I put my money.
>
>I think better airflow through the cabin is the answer. This can be done
>by putting a slight suction in the tail cone. A couple of small half
>round shapes laminated to the belly skin with holes drilled on the aft
>side will provide a little negative pressure and also act as a drain. I
>did this on my 9A and it worked well.
>
>Kevin Shannon
>RV8-QB
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vince Himsl
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV8-List: Floor insulation
>
>
>I used super sound proofing (3/8 I think) from Aircraft Spruce. There is
>an article floating around discusing sound
>proofing of aircraft. Some say its great, some say that they don't
>notice difference. With 'problems getting enough heat' a
>constant and recurring thread on the list, I decided to go ahead anyway.
>
>Aircraft Spruce has a section on sound proofing aircraft products.
>
>Regards,
>
>Vince Himsl
>RV8 - VSB Finish
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "tpu2(at)juno.com" <tpu2(at)juno.com> |
Subject: | Floor insulation |
My plan for addl heat is to use the $80 seat heaters on front and rear. Not sure
if DJ, Becky or Aeroclassics would make it fit while sewing, but its an easy
install either way.
My plan for sound is the best ANR I can get. Trying to make an RV quiet enough
to fly without headphones is impossible, and if you have to put them on, then
reducing the noise is best left to ANR.
.02
Ted Utley
8A Finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Kevin Shannon" <kshannon(at)seanet.com> |
Subject: | Floor insulation |
I agree completely, you want "heated" air flowing through the cabin. If
the cabin area is completely sealed, the warm air can not enter and
circulate easily. My point is, seal all openings where cold air can
enter, but give the static air inside the cabin a place to go, like out
the tail
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Bilinski
Subject: RE: RV8-List: Floor insulation
<bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
In cold weather the last thing you want is non heated airflow through
the
cabin. The coldest I have flown is 12F, the drafts were very annoying.
Oh,
and trust me, you dont really notice the drafts until it gets cold out,
then you wonder were all that air is coming from. Giving the air an
"out"
will make for even more drafts. Sealing up the openings in and around
the
cockpit to keep the air out is were I put my money.
>
>I think better airflow through the cabin is the answer. This can be
done
>by putting a slight suction in the tail cone. A couple of small half
>round shapes laminated to the belly skin with holes drilled on the aft
>side will provide a little negative pressure and also act as a drain. I
>did this on my 9A and it worked well.
>
>Kevin Shannon
>RV8-QB
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Airseal- lower cowl to baffle inlet floor |
Builders,
What is your successful method, each time when installing the finished lower
cowl with its riveted-on Airseals, getting the extended Airseals up through
the specified 3/8" gaps and onto the top side of the baffle inlet floors?
Am I missing something? (See pages 4 & 5 for parts 2 and 10, Right @ Left
Front Air Inlet Floor in Van's Cowl Baffle Kit - Installation Guide.)
Thanks,
Jack, RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Philippjw54(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 12/11/04 |
To Greg concerning the FL406 assembly,
If you study the plans closely you will see that there are 3 pieces to this
assembly. ( FL 406A, B & C. On plans drawing 15 ( Flap ) the veiw called "root
end veiw" the dimensions for the FL406B are called out. It is made from 2024
T3 1/8TH INCH FLAT PLATE STOCK. The dimensions are 5 13/16ths x 3 inches
tappered to the dimensions on the print. Careful study of the other 2 pieces will
reveal those dimensions. I hope this helps. You can email me directly at
philippjw54(at)aol.com if you need more help.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Philippjw54(at)aol.com |
Subject: | RV-4 Flap Question From Greg |
Also Greg you will notice that on the same flap drawing (drawing plans # 15 )
the top isometric view will show how the completed F406 assembly looks when
attached to the forward face of the flap spar. Remember to cut the 1/4" taper
on the inboard end of each FL403 flap spar. The 1/4" hole drilled on the FL
406B is where the rod end bearing is attached for flap operation. Building these
RV airplanes is such a rewarding experience. Just think of it this way, your
fun has just started. I really love building mine and don't know what I'll do
after completion. I suppose I just have to fly it. Oh well. Things could be
worse. I cut the lightening holes in the flap spars with a 1"1/4 Greenlee
knockout punch found at any electrical supply house. Rivet edge distance and rivet
spacing are one of the most important factors for structural integrity in the
construction of aircraft. AC 43.13-1A & 2A, Accecptical Methods, Techniques &
Practices, is an FAA engineering reference manual with a great deal of
information covering all aspects of aircraft construction. This book can be found
in
the Aircraft Spruce & Specialties catalog (part #13-11350 $18.95). Two other
books also found in Aircraft Spruce are (Standard Aircraft Handbook part #
13-11400 $23.95 & Aircraft Sheet Metal part # 13-19205 $18.95. Also all the books
by the late Tony Bingelis are a great investment part # 13-13500 $73.95. Keep
on building and one day you will be rewarded with a fantastic plane.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Greg@itmack" <greg(at)itmack.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-4 Flap Question From Greg |
As soon as I read your email I took off to the shed to check the 1/4" taper
that I forgot about, but it seems that my spar has the taper already cut
off. I finished one of the FL406 assemblies today, it took me so long to
build it because I didn't really understand what I was trying to build until
I saw the finished assembly.
Regards
Greg, starting the fuse soon.
>
> Also Greg you will notice that on the same flap drawing (drawing plans #
15 )
> the top isometric view will show how the completed F406 assembly looks
when
> attached to the forward face of the flap spar. Remember to cut the 1/4"
taper
> on the inboard end of each FL403 flap spar. The 1/4" hole drilled on the
FL
> 406B is where the rod end bearing is attached for flap operation. Building
these
> RV airplanes is such a rewarding experience. Just think of it this way,
your
> fun has just started. I really love building mine and don't know what I'll
do
> after completion. I suppose I just have to fly it. Oh well. Things could
be
> worse. I cut the lightening holes in the flap spars with a 1"1/4 Greenlee
> knockout punch found at any electrical supply house. Rivet edge distance
and rivet
> spacing are one of the most important factors for structural integrity in
the
> construction of aircraft. AC 43.13-1A & 2A, Accecptical Methods,
Techniques &
> Practices, is an FAA engineering reference manual with a great deal of
> information covering all aspects of aircraft construction. This book can
be found in
> the Aircraft Spruce & Specialties catalog (part #13-11350 $18.95). Two
other
> books also found in Aircraft Spruce are (Standard Aircraft Handbook part #
> 13-11400 $23.95 & Aircraft Sheet Metal part # 13-19205 $18.95. Also all
the books
> by the late Tony Bingelis are a great investment part # 13-13500 $73.95.
Keep
> on building and one day you will be rewarded with a fantastic plane.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Philippjw54(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: RV-4 Flap Question From Greg |
Hi Greg, I'm glad to hear that you completed the F 406 assembly. The plans
provided by vans for the RV-4 are loaded with information. Careful study of the
plans is essential for understanding how to manufacture each component we
make. Even if we do make a mistake all we need do is to make a new part. The
wing needs careful attention when constructing. This is the heart of the plane.
Absolutely no mistakes are acceptable. No compromises.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | [ Jim Jewell ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Jim Jewell
Subject: RV6-A lower cowl engine air intake seal
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Subject: | KLN-90A pinout needed |
Does anyone have a KLN-90A pinout they could send me by fax or scanned image
by email?
I'll take an installation manual if anyone has a spare for sale.
Stephen Soule
Swanton, Vermont
KLN-90A pinout needed
Does anyone have a KLN-90A pinout they could send me by fax or scanned image by
email?
I'll take an installation manual if anyone has a spare for sale.
Stephen Soule
Swanton, Vermont
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bruce Niles" <bniles(at)cfl.rr.com> |
I'm looking into putting the 205 HP model in my RV-8. If anyone has firsthand
knowledge of this installation, I would like some feedback. Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Maureen & Bob Christensen" <mchriste(at)danvilletelco.net> |
Subject: | Re: Innodyn Turbine |
I don't believe they've delivered any to anyone . . . still testing and
trying to come up with a FWF package.
You are way out on the bleading edge . . . but what fun if you can make it
work!!!
Regards,
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Niles" <bniles(at)cfl.rr.com>
Subject: RV8-List: Innodyn Turbine
>
> I'm looking into putting the 205 HP model in my RV-8. If anyone has
firsthand knowledge of this installation, I would like some feedback.
Thanks
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Innodyn Turbine |
I'd be real careful about there fuel consumption claims.
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Niles" <bniles(at)cfl.rr.com>
Subject: RV8-List: Innodyn Turbine
>
> I'm looking into putting the 205 HP model in my RV-8. If anyone has
firsthand knowledge of this installation, I would like some feedback.
Thanks
>
>
> --
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
>
>
--
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Subject: | Magneto drive gear - Lightspeed Ignition questions |
Hello fellow Listers,
I'm looking into buying a Lightspeed Plasma II Plus ignition for my flying
RV-6A. According the website I will need to get a gear for the Hall effect
module that goes into the hole in the Lycoming case vacated by the magneto
it will replace.
The manufacturer of the Lightspeed system does not supply the gear and
suggests that I get it from Lycoming, Superior or a magneto overhauler.
During construction of the RV-6A (and now my RV-8) I have found that
scrounging missing parts can hold up the project for months. I have never
had to get a magneto gear. Have any of you? Where do you get such a thing?
What would I except to pay for it?
I can't use the gear from one of the mags I will remove because both of my
mags have impulse couplings and the Lightspeed module requires a non-impulse
gear.
The next question will be - Once I have the gear, how do I get it to stick
to the Hall effect module? Chewing gum? If anyone has real world experience,
I'm all ears (eyes.)
Also, I recall hearing that Lightspeed had a competitor - one Joel Rose. I
see references to his ignition system in the archives, but no URL for his
website. Anyone know what it is? Does his system come ready to bolt on, or
are there items that have to be chased down in order to install the system?
Stephen Soule
Swanton, Vermont
RV-6A N227RV flying (270 hours!)
RV-8 N222SZ under construction
Magneto drive gear - Lightspeed Ignition questions
Hello fellow Listers,
I'm looking into buying a Lightspeed Plasma II Plus ignition for my flying RV-6A.
According the website I will need to get a gear for the Hall effect module
that goes into the hole in the Lycoming case vacated by the magneto it will replace.
The manufacturer of the Lightspeed system does not supply the gear and suggests
that I get it from Lycoming, Superior or a magneto overhauler.
During construction of the RV-6A (and now my RV-8) I have found that scrounging
missing parts can hold up the project for months. I have never had to get a magneto
gear. Have any of you? Where do you get such a thing? What would I except
to pay for it?
I can't use the gear from one of the mags I will remove because both of my mags
have impulse couplings and the Lightspeed module requires a non-impulse gear.
The next question will be - Once I have the gear, how do I get it to stick to the
Hall effect module? Chewing gum? If anyone has real world experience, I'm all
ears (eyes.)
Also, I recall hearing that Lightspeed had a competitor - one Joel Rose. I see
references to his ignition system in the archives, but no URL for his website.
Anyone know what it is? Does his system come ready to bolt on, or are there items
that have to be chased down in order to install the system?
Stephen Soule
Swanton, Vermont
RV-6A N227RV flying (270 hours!)
RV-8 N222SZ under construction
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Magneto drive gear - Lightspeed Ignition questions |
>Hello fellow Listers,
>
>I'm looking into buying a Lightspeed Plasma II Plus ignition for my flying
>RV-6A. According the website I will need to get a gear for the Hall effect
>module that goes into the hole in the Lycoming case vacated by the magneto
>it will replace.
>
>The manufacturer of the Lightspeed system does not supply the gear and
>suggests that I get it from Lycoming, Superior or a magneto overhauler.
>
>During construction of the RV-6A (and now my RV-8) I have found that
>scrounging missing parts can hold up the project for months. I have never
>had to get a magneto gear. Have any of you? Where do you get such a thing?
>What would I except to pay for it?
>
>I can't use the gear from one of the mags I will remove because both of my
>mags have impulse couplings and the Lightspeed module requires a
>non-impulse
>gear.
>
>The next question will be - Once I have the gear, how do I get it to stick
>to the Hall effect module? Chewing gum? If anyone has real world
>experience,
>I'm all ears (eyes.)
It simply attaches to the shaft with a nut. A woodruff key keeps the gear
from ever spinning freely on the shaft. I'm going from memory here so bear
with me. It really is a neat setup and very easy to do.
>
>Also, I recall hearing that Lightspeed had a competitor - one Joel Rose. I
>see references to his ignition system in the archives, but no URL for his
>website. Anyone know what it is? Does his system come ready to bolt on, or
>are there items that have to be chased down in order to install the system?
It's Jeff Rose. He also makes an electronic ignition that is very good.
Lightspeed is a bit more prominent on the web but I've heard of no major
issues with either system. I've been totally satisfied with the LIghtspeed
for about three years on my RV8.
Sorry I can't offer much on the sourcing of the mag gear. I'd go straight
to the mag manufacturer, maybe Superior Air Parts, or even the engine
builders...Bart Lalonde at Aerosport, Mattituck, etc.
>
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Magneto drive gear - Lightspeed Ignition questions |
In a message dated 12/29/2004 3:05:42 PM Eastern Standard Time,
SSoule(at)pfclaw.com writes:
The next question will be - Once I have the gear, how do I get it to stick
to the Hall effect module? Chewing gum? If anyone has real world experience,
I'm all ears (eyes.)
Also, I recall hearing that Lightspeed had a competitor - one Joel Rose. I
see references to his ignition system in the archives, but no URL for his
website. Anyone know what it is? Does his system come ready to bolt on, or
are there items that have to be chased down in order to install the system?
Stephen Soule
Swanton, Vermont
Jeff Rose is not selling his system anymore ... he is supporting it for a
while.
Len
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jim Bean <jim-bean(at)att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Magneto drive gear - Lightspeed Ignition questions |
Steve,
The drive gear and the impulse coupler are separate assemblies on the
magnito. You can separate the drive gear from the impulse coupler. Most
engines have the magnito install into a spacer which is the same depth
as the impulse coupler. Romove the impulse coupler and the spacer and
the gear ends up in at the same depth. This makes it easy for the
manufacturer to have one magnito without an impulse coupler.
The gear you have is probably usable on the hall effect module. If your
engine has a spacer behind the magnito you would have to remove it
before installing the hall effect module.
I prefer the pickup ring on the front of the engine. It dosn't require
maintenance which the hall effect module does. Also it leaves the
magnito intact as either a spare or to sell. It does require installing
two timy magnets in the ring gear but Lightspeed will do it for a small fee.
Jim Bean
RV-8 almost done.
Stephen J. Soule wrote:
>
> Hello fellow Listers,
>
> I'm looking into buying a Lightspeed Plasma II Plus ignition for my flying
> RV-6A. According the website I will need to get a gear for the Hall effect
> module that goes into the hole in the Lycoming case vacated by the magneto
> it will replace.
>
> The manufacturer of the Lightspeed system does not supply the gear and
> suggests that I get it from Lycoming, Superior or a magneto overhauler.
>
> During construction of the RV-6A (and now my RV-8) I have found that
> scrounging missing parts can hold up the project for months. I have never
> had to get a magneto gear. Have any of you? Where do you get such a thing?
> What would I except to pay for it?
>
> I can't use the gear from one of the mags I will remove because both of my
> mags have impulse couplings and the Lightspeed module requires a non-impulse
> gear.
>
> The next question will be - Once I have the gear, how do I get it to stick
> to the Hall effect module? Chewing gum? If anyone has real world experience,
> I'm all ears (eyes.)
>
> Also, I recall hearing that Lightspeed had a competitor - one Joel Rose. I
> see references to his ignition system in the archives, but no URL for his
> website. Anyone know what it is? Does his system come ready to bolt on, or
> are there items that have to be chased down in order to install the system?
>
> Stephen Soule
> Swanton, Vermont
> RV-6A N227RV flying (270 hours!)
> RV-8 N222SZ under construction
>
>
>
>
>
> Magneto drive gear - Lightspeed Ignition questions
>
>
> Hello fellow Listers,
>
>
> I'm looking into buying a Lightspeed Plasma II Plus ignition for my flying RV-6A.
According the website I will need to get a gear for the Hall effect module
that goes into the hole in the Lycoming case vacated by the magneto it will
replace.
>
>
> The manufacturer of the Lightspeed system does not supply the gear and suggests
that I get it from Lycoming, Superior or a magneto overhauler.
>
>
> During construction of the RV-6A (and now my RV-8) I have found that scrounging
missing parts can hold up the project for months. I have never had to get a
magneto gear. Have any of you? Where do you get such a thing? What would I except
to pay for it?
>
>
> I can't use the gear from one of the mags I will remove because both of my mags
have impulse couplings and the Lightspeed module requires a non-impulse gear.
>
>
> The next question will be - Once I have the gear, how do I get it to stick to
the Hall effect module? Chewing gum? If anyone has real world experience, I'm
all ears (eyes.)
>
>
> Also, I recall hearing that Lightspeed had a competitor - one Joel Rose. I see
references to his ignition system in the archives, but no URL for his website.
Anyone know what it is? Does his system come ready to bolt on, or are there
items that have to be chased down in order to install the system?
>
>
> Stephen Soule
>
> Swanton, Vermont
>
> RV-6A N227RV flying (270 hours!)
>
> RV-8 N222SZ under construction
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "David Alderman" <kenalder(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Innodyn Turbine |
A couple weeks ago, I had the opportunity to talk with an executive officer
who had been associated with Innodyn people but is no longer involved. One
of my many questons was about their fuel burn claim. He said it is very
valid and the "secret" is a computer controlled delivery system that
provides a precise, measured, amt of fuel for a given power setting - sort
of like spurts rather than full fuel flow. Time will tell as it always does.
My two pennies for what it's worth. What a boon for the HB industry if it
comes to fruitation. Ken Alderman, wannabe RV-9A
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Subject: | Magneto drive gear - Lightspeed Ignition questions |
Len,
Too bad - a little competition might be a good thing. I'm skeptical of the
Lightspeed system in that it doesn't include a vital part (the non-impulse
magneto gear) and the manufacturer cannot say with certainty where to get
it. I makes me wonder what else might be missing when you get the $2,000 box
...
The story of these projects is often "You pays yer money and you takes yer
chances" to quote Popeye. I'm pretty tired of it. Have you ever tried to get
assistance from the manufacturer when installing King or Narco avionics? No
dice, even if you paid full price from an outfit like Aircraft Spruce a
new-in-box item.
Steve (rant, rant, rant)
-----Original Message-----
Jeff Rose is not selling his system anymore ... he is supporting it for a
while.
Len
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Magneto drive gear - Lightspeed Ignition questions |
From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Don't forget the e-mag alternative. If I were doing it again, I would
probably go that route.
http://emagair.com
-
Larry Bowen, RV-8 w/ Rose ignition
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Stephen J. Soule said:
>
> Len,
>
> Too bad - a little competition might be a good thing. I'm skeptical of the
> Lightspeed system in that it doesn't include a vital part (the non-impulse
> magneto gear) and the manufacturer cannot say with certainty where to get
> it. I makes me wonder what else might be missing when you get the $2,000
> box
> ...
>
> The story of these projects is often "You pays yer money and you takes yer
> chances" to quote Popeye. I'm pretty tired of it. Have you ever tried to
> get
> assistance from the manufacturer when installing King or Narco avionics?
> No
> dice, even if you paid full price from an outfit like Aircraft Spruce a
> new-in-box item.
>
> Steve (rant, rant, rant)
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
>
> Jeff Rose is not selling his system anymore ... he is supporting it for a
> while.
>
> Len
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Subject: | Magneto drive gear - Lightspeed Ignition questions |
Larry,
Is the emag shipping? I'll check.
Steve
-----Original Message-----
Don't forget the e-mag alternative. If I were doing it again, I would
probably go that route.
http://emagair.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Magneto drive gear - Lightspeed Ignition questions |
From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Yes, I've heard others say they have taken delivery.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Stephen J. Soule said:
>
> Larry,
>
> Is the emag shipping? I'll check.
>
> Steve
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> Don't forget the e-mag alternative. If I were doing it again, I would
> probably go that route.
>
> http://emagair.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Magneto drive gear - Lightspeed Ignition questions |
In a message dated 12/30/04 7:09:13 AM Eastern Standard Time,
SSoule(at)pfclaw.com writes:
Len,
Too bad - a little competition might be a good thing. I'm skeptical of the
Lightspeed system in that it doesn't include a vital part (the non-impulse
magneto gear) and the manufacturer cannot say with certainty where to get
it. I makes me wonder what else might be missing when you get the $2,000 box
...
The story of these projects is often "You pays yer money and you takes yer
chances" to quote Popeye. I'm pretty tired of it. Have you ever tried to get
assistance from the manufacturer when installing King or Narco avionics? No
dice, even if you paid full price from an outfit like Aircraft Spruce a
new-in-box item.
Steve (rant, rant, rant)
Steve:
I have the Lightspeed on my 8A and love it. I have encountered one problem
in the 302 hrs ... the timing kept getting off. I had met Klaus at Oshkosh.
He is way above me in IQ so it was hard to keep up with him explaining the
Lightspeed but after I had the timing problem ... I knew a little more about
the system having installed it and run it.
I was in California and went by his shop to see him. He truly is a great
guy. He fixed my problem at no charge ... my system was 3 years old by then.
I
wanted to buy some plugs from him ... sold them to me for $2 each. He is
really into racing his Long Ezy.
I would not be concerned about dealing with Klaus. I have the Hall unit ..
got mine from my engine builder.
Good Luck !!
Len Leggette, RV-8A
Greensboro, N.C. N910LL
302 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Magneto drive gear - Lightspeed Ignition questions |
From: | Ted P Utley <tpu2(at)juno.com> |
The gear is really a no-brainer to obtain. Call ANY shop in TAP and they
will sell you one. Ebay has one at least every week or so. A parts
catalog for $15.00, along with an overhaul manual for $20.00 are items it
would be almost impossible to live without.
As for Lightspeed or Emag, I would very carefully read the CAFE
foundation series on electronic vs mag. I have completely dropped my
desire for EI due to their research and some of my own. I hate to get
flamed on this, but alot of the BS about EI on slow turning AC engines is
in opinion just that. The upside is that you can get an IO-360 200HP
engine to run smoothly on 8 gallons an hour. The downside is realizing
that an 0320 might do the same thing, and we know most RVs fly just fine
on that engine....
I'll stick with the higher top speed and power of mags.
Ted Utley
8A/200/mags
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Greg@itmack" <greg(at)itmack.com> |
Riveting the counterbalance pipe to the leading edge of the aileron and half way
through it I noticed that I was using LP4-3 rivets instead of CS4-4. They both
have a similar grip but the LP4-3 is not a flush rivet.
If I leave the LP4-3 rivets in am I right thinking that thay can't be seen once
the aileron is installed on the wing? The only other problem could be if the
LP4-3 rivets will rub or catch on the wing when attached, is that likely?
On another subject I used the proseal technique that Charles suggested for the
leading edge of the aileron and they came out really well. Thanks Charles.
Greg
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Greg,
The rivets can be seen by a person under the aircraft when the nose of the
aileron is in the down position. In my opinion, the rivets (1) might be
noticed by a nosy builder snooping around to see how you did your gear leg
fairings or something, and (2) are not likely to rub or catch on anything.
Steve Soule
RV-6A N227RV flying
RV-8 N222SZ under construction
-----Original Message-----
Riveting the counterbalance pipe to the leading edge of the aileron and half
way through it I noticed that I was using LP4-3 rivets instead of CS4-4.
They both have a similar grip but the LP4-3 is not a flush rivet.
If I leave the LP4-3 rivets in am I right thinking that thay can't be seen
once the aileron is installed on the wing? The only other problem could be
if the LP4-3 rivets will rub or catch on the wing when attached, is that
likely?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "David Paule" <dpaule(at)frii.com> |
Subject: | Powder coating, spiral wrap and a pre-oiler |
Hi, Everyone,
I don't have an RV - but I do have a Cessna 180, and about ten years ago I
did a major FWF rebuild on Big Hammer. There are a few points relating to
that which may prove of interest to you.
1. I used some nylon spiral-wrap to protect a number of wires in the engine
bay. The spiral-wrap closest to the exhaust manifold melted around the
wires. It's safe, and still provides excellent protection, but can't be
removed and it's unsightly. It has not melted more - that is, the initial
meltdown seems to have been all that's happened. There is a high-temperature
version available from www.mcmaster.com, which should be adequate. Look on
page 702 on their on-line catalog for the PTFE version, in clear and black,
various sizes.
2. I took the opportunity to remove the main landing gear legs and have them
checked for cracks. Then I had them powder-coated, along with the baffles
and the engine mount and the spinner bulkhead. The powder coating was a
custom job, done very carefully and with all the appropriate process steps
included. Here are the results, ten years later:
The baffles are holding up perfectly. That surprised me, since I thought
that vibration or chafe would do them in.
The spinner bulkhead was lost in a stupid mishap during the first month of
operation. It would embarrass me to describe it, so I won't. But the
non-flight incident had nothing to do with the powder coating, which
survived.
The engine mount is intact with no cracks in the paint anywhere, in spite of
numerous things clamped or screwed to the mount. However, the custom color
is discolored in some areas that are close to the exhaust, in spite of the
heat shields. I don't know if that would have happened if the exhaust system
had been wrapped in insulation, but it is bare.
The landing gear legs are generally still okay. There's a dimple in the legs
where a brake line bracket snaps on, and I foolishly used that bracket for
about four years. The paint cracked there, and on my last preflight I
noticed a trace of corrosion there. There are a number of small chips in the
pain where the legs had been struck by rocks tossed up from the prop (I
don't always use pavement, and for that matter, don't always use airports.)
There is no corrosion on any of those. In retrospect, I should have removed
the brake line clip permanently when I painted the legs, and added some sort
of gravel barrier, like a clear tape or something (maybe a fiberglass
fairing....) to the leading edge.
3. I installed an engine pre-oiler. This one, by www.oilamatic.com, has
proved to be an excellent device, requiring no maintenance and working quite
reliably. I use it on start-up and on shut-down, even though it's not
certified for operation during engine operation. I've noticed that if I
don't use it on shut-down, that the oil pressure fades off before the prop
stops. If I use it, the prop hits the final compression stroke and bounces
back before stopping. I can feel the difference if I pressurize the system
in the hangar and move the prop. Also, I can use it after an oil and filter
change to pressurize the system before starting the engine, both for a leak
check and to avoid running the motor while the new filter is filling. This
device is a must-have, in my opinion.
I have no connection with either McMaster-Carr or Oilamatic, outside of
being a happy customer.
I'm sending this to the RV-8 list and the more general RV list, so if you're
on both and get two copies, that's why. My apologies.
Dave Paule
Cessna 180 "Big Hammer"
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
RV-8(at)yahoogroups.com, rv8-list(at)matronics.com
I seem to remember someone talking about just buying the rings for the "holy
cowl" so you can roll your own... Anyone know anything about this?
-Bill VonDane
RV-8A - Colorado
www.rv8a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | RE: RV8-List Digest: 4 Msgs - 01/03/05 |
Greg:
The LP-4 can be seen if someone is really interested, but(1) the plane has
to be parked,
(2) the aileron has to be in the down position and (3) the observer has to
be standing verty close and be interested in looking at the aileron leading
edge.
Having said that, why not drill out the LP4-3 rivets? It'll only take a few
minutes and then you won't generate any stomach acid over it later on.
George
drilling fuselage skins
>
>From: "Greg@itmack" <greg(at)itmack.com>
>Subject: RV8-List: aileron rivets
>
>
>Riveting the counterbalance pipe to the leading edge of the aileron and
>half way
>through it I noticed that I was using LP4-3 rivets instead of CS4-4. They
>both
>have a similar grip but the LP4-3 is not a flush rivet.
>
>If I leave the LP4-3 rivets in am I right thinking that thay can't be seen
>once
>the aileron is installed on the wing? The only other problem could be if
>the
>LP4-3 rivets will rub or catch on the wing when attached, is that likely?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Greg@itmack" <greg(at)itmack.com> |
Subject: | Re: RE: RV8-List Digest: 4 Msgs - 01/03/05 |
Yep you're right I couldn't get them off my mind so I took them out. They
came out quite easily after a few practice tries to get the proper
technique. I took out some blind rivets when building the empennage and
they were a pain, but these came out easily.
Greg
Starting fuselage soon.
>
> Greg:
>
> The LP-4 can be seen if someone is really interested, but(1) the plane
has
> to be parked,
> (2) the aileron has to be in the down position and (3) the observer has to
> be standing verty close and be interested in looking at the aileron
leading
> edge.
>
> Having said that, why not drill out the LP4-3 rivets? It'll only take a
few
> minutes and then you won't generate any stomach acid over it later on.
>
> George
>
> drilling fuselage skins
>
> >
> >From: "Greg@itmack" <greg(at)itmack.com>
> >Subject: RV8-List: aileron rivets
> >
> >
> >Riveting the counterbalance pipe to the leading edge of the aileron and
> >half way
> >through it I noticed that I was using LP4-3 rivets instead of CS4-4.
They
> >both
> >have a similar grip but the LP4-3 is not a flush rivet.
> >
> >If I leave the LP4-3 rivets in am I right thinking that thay can't be
seen
> >once
> >the aileron is installed on the wing? The only other problem could be if
> >the
> >LP4-3 rivets will rub or catch on the wing when attached, is that likely?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
"RV-8 List (Yahoo)"
Alan Brown, former RV-8 builder, asked me to list the following:
"I sold my kit to a guy in Orlando back in April. I kept the tools, but
am now deciding I really won't use them in the future, but could
invest the money in my other projects I'm working on.
If you are still on the builders forum / discussion board, would you
mind mentioning my tools for sale?
If so, just tell them to contact me at alanrv8r(at)fuse.net, or (859)
485-7639 home, or (859) 240-2402 cell.
I'm selling my pneumatic squeezer, a flat and cupped squeezer set, an
Avery adjustable set holder and Cleveland washer spacer set, a
standard yoke (1.5" or 2", I think), a longeron yoke, a 2X rivet gun
(Avery's), several bucking bars, numerous cupped rivet sets for
the gun and a flush swivel rivet head, a back riveting set, a fan
spacer, a seam roller and some other stuff I'm sure I won't need.
I will take pictures and send to anyone interested. Will discuss price
on contact. Everything is like new / excellent condition and not
used much. Price will be fair /used, based on 1998 - 2001 retail
purchase prices - so one should not expect any flea market
junk giveaway prices. In other words, serious inquiries only."
If anyone's interested in his tools, give him a call and save some
money.
-- Don McNamara
N8RV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Philippjw54(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 01/04/05 |
Concerning the counter balance pipe for the aileron. Did you countersink the
rivet holes
In the pipe? CS4-4 rivets. Otherwise there will be interference with the
aileron gap seal and possible hang up.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Subject: | RE: counter balance pipe |
Yes. I think that was covered in the video, if not the plans.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Philippjw54(at)aol.com [mailto:Philippjw54(at)aol.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, January 05, 2005 9:20 PM
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV8-List: Re: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 01/04/05
>
>
> Concerning the counter balance pipe for the aileron. Did you
> countersink the rivet holes In the pipe? CS4-4 rivets.
> Otherwise there will be interference with the aileron gap
> seal and possible hang up.
>
>
> =========
> Matronics Forums.
> =========
> =========
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Maureen & Bob Christensen" <mchriste(at)danvilletelco.net> |
I'm planning an aluminum eyeball vent just above the manual trim knob on the
left side of the panel . . . the one Van's sells seems pretty big for the
space, but I think it will fit?
What is the best vent / plan for the front seat vent?
Thanks,
Bob Christensen
RV-8 #81883 - SE Iowa
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
vansairforce
My buddy Paul Drexler has been shooting a lot of video lately of the planes
and pilots in my EAA chapter and I got a chance to be a subject that past
weekend...
http://www.rv8a.com/videos/index.htm
-Bill VonDane
RV-8A - Colorado
www.rv8a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Clark, Thomas M UTPWR" <Tom.Clark(at)utcfuelcells.com> |
rv8-list(at)matronics.com, rv9-list(at)matronics.com, rv-list(at)matronics.com,
Mid-AtlRVwing(at)yahoogroups.com, rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com,
BostonRVBuilders(at)yahoogroups.com
Groups,
I have had a bunch of questions about my modified RV-8 Fastback which was
completed mid. last year. I now have a web site that should answer many of
the questions about this modification. Try the link below.
Thanks,
Tom RV8 Fastback, N525TC, 75 hours
http://members.cox.net/rv8fastback
Tom Clark
860-727-2287 Office
860-604-5826 Cell
860-998-9811 Fax
e-mail: tom.clark(at)utcfuelcells.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dr. Kevin Leathers" <DrLeathers(at)822heal.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-8 Fastback |
Interested parties might also want to check out www.showplanes.com
Doc
----- Original Message -----
From: "Clark, Thomas M UTPWR" <Tom.Clark(at)utcfuelcells.com>
; ;
; ;
; ;
Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 Fastback
>
> Groups,
> I have had a bunch of questions about my modified RV-8 Fastback which was
> completed mid. last year. I now have a web site that should answer many of
> the questions about this modification. Try the link below.
> Thanks,
> Tom RV8 Fastback, N525TC, 75 hours
>
> http://members.cox.net/rv8fastback
>
> Tom Clark
> 860-727-2287 Office
> 860-604-5826 Cell
> 860-998-9811 Fax
> e-mail: tom.clark(at)utcfuelcells.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John Huft" <rv8(at)lazy8.net> |
"Vansairforce(at)Yahoogroups. Com" ,
"Lycoming(at)Yahoogroups. Com"
Subject: | LASAR system for sale |
Hi all
I have for sale a complete LASAR system for the lycoming 360. Includes
timing box and PC interface cable, two mags, harnesses, documentation. It is
used, with about 200 hours on it.
$1250 obo (half price)
John Huft
Pagosa Springs, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Hans Conser <conserreceipts(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | RV-8 Fast Back Kit |
So how much is the performance of the plane improved?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
Subject: | [PLEASE READ NOW] - Addressing Upgrade At Matronics TONIGHT! |
Dear Listers,
Service Provider to upgrade to a larger IP subnet. I will be
re-addressing all of the machines on the network including the
Matronics Web Server and Matronics Email Server at that time. Name
Service will be updated at that time as well and most things should
work again pretty quick. There may be some bounced email for a few hours
or even a day or so as the new name-to-ip-address resolutions propagate
into the depths of the Internet.
If you have problems posting a message to one of the Lists or get a
bounced message back, please wait a couple of hours and try sending it
again. Generally, access to the web site should work within 1-hour of
Hopefully the transition will go smoothly and you'll hardly even
notice! :-)
Thanks for your patience!
Matt Dralle
List Administrator
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Philippjw54(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 4 Msgs - 01/05/05 |
message(at)matronics.com, body(at)matronics.com, is(at)matronics.com,
uppercase(at)matronics.com
VIDEO?? WHO NEEDS A VIDEO
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | [ H.Ivan Haecker ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: H.Ivan Haecker
Subject: Cabin Air Supply and Oil Cooler
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/baremetl@gvtc.com.01.09.2005/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
"RV-8 List (Yahoo)"
Subject: | Gots me an engine ... |
FWIW, my engine showed up today. It's another work of art from the
gallery of AeroSport Power, Inc. Bart built it with love, I'm sure.
While this announcement won't mean a hill of beans to most of you, there
are still a few out there who probably thought I've fallen off the face
of the earth. Unless I just uncrated a very expensive boat anchor, I'm
committed to fly this crate in the forseeable future.
N8RV WILL FLY !!
-- Don McNamara
N8RV
80113
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Gots me an engine ... |
>FWIW, my engine showed up today. It's another work of art from the
>gallery of AeroSport Power, Inc. Bart built it with love, I'm sure.
>
>While this announcement won't mean a hill of beans to most of you, there
>
>are still a few out there who probably thought I've fallen off the face
>of the earth. Unless I just uncrated a very expensive boat anchor, I'm
>committed to fly this crate in the forseeable future.
>
>N8RV WILL FLY !!
>
>-- Don McNamara
> N8RV
> 80113
Bout time!! You now have another year's worth of work to stuff that gold
plated boat anchor into the cowling and actually make it work.
Hey, I'm here to support you, my friend. Call on me, I'll be there. :)
Heh.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD down for FIFTH annual
RV10 '51
________________________________________________________________________________
"RV-8 List (Yahoo)"
Subject: | Canopy sealing woes ... |
OK, I've listened you most of you flying RV8ers out there bitch and moan
at one time or another about how that carefully crafted canopy skirt
warps with temperature and just won't seal out the air when flying,
right?
Well, I have a question for everybody ...
Is there any reason why a passive latch couldn't be fabricated to pull
the canopy frame tight to the fuse when the canopy is closed and
latched? Wouldn't a couple of aluminum or UHMW blocks, shaped to engage
the frame or a couple of latches, work to hold the rear of the canopy
closed and tight to the fuse?
Any thoughts would be appreciated ...
-- Don McNamara
N8RV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Canopy sealing woes ... |
OK, I've listened you most of you flying RV8ers out there bitch and moan
>at one time or another about how that carefully crafted canopy skirt
>warps with temperature and just won't seal out the air when flying,
>right?
>
>Well, I have a question for everybody ...
>
>Is there any reason why a passive latch couldn't be fabricated to pull
>the canopy frame tight to the fuse when the canopy is closed and
>latched? Wouldn't a couple of aluminum or UHMW blocks, shaped to engage
>the frame or a couple of latches, work to hold the rear of the canopy
>closed and tight to the fuse?
>
>Any thoughts would be appreciated ...
>
>-- Don McNamara
> N8RV
Bitch and moan? ME? I whimper and whine. It's much more subtle but still
gets the point across.
Additional latches might work somewhat, but I'd be afraid of forgetting to
unlatch them and whilst yanking the canopy aft on rollout on a scorching hot
day, rip the skirt right off the canopy frame.
There must be a sure fire way to really snug that canopy skirt down tight to
the turtledeck but it will take some wiley engineering to do it. Meanwhile,
weatherstripping or layers of sticky backed felt do a decent job. On one
particularly cold flight, Debbie stuffed a sweater or jacket up behind her
head to stop the drafts. Worked like a charm. Blocked my view of my six
o'clock though. Always must be on the lookout for bogeys.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com> |
Subject: | Re: Canopy sealing woes ... |
I have been thinking about this and was out looking at the plane tonight,
and I think if we could come up with a piece of foam to take up all the
space from the rear of the canopy frame weldment back to the back of the
canopy skirt it would solve all the air leaks back there... Kinda like what
Brian said about stuffing a blanket or jacket back there... Something soft
that compresses easily so it wont hold the back of the canopy up, but will
expand to keep it sealed during expansion / contraction...
I am going to experiment...
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: <N8RV(at)gte.net>
Subject: RV8-List: Canopy sealing woes ...
OK, I've listened you most of you flying RV8ers out there bitch and moan
at one time or another about how that carefully crafted canopy skirt
warps with temperature and just won't seal out the air when flying,
right?
Well, I have a question for everybody ...
Is there any reason why a passive latch couldn't be fabricated to pull
the canopy frame tight to the fuse when the canopy is closed and
latched? Wouldn't a couple of aluminum or UHMW blocks, shaped to engage
the frame or a couple of latches, work to hold the rear of the canopy
closed and tight to the fuse?
Any thoughts would be appreciated ...
-- Don McNamara
N8RV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Michel Gordillo" <michelgordillo(at)telefonica.net> |
Subject: | Re: Canopy sealing woes ... |
Even though I am on the early building of my RV8, I plan to fly it in very
cold temperatures.
So I was concerned about a crack on the Jon Johanson canopy when flying over
the North Pole.
I was lucky to meet him last year at Oshkosh.
He told me that when the canopy is formed, a lot of stress is put on it and
when the temperature changes, tensions appears everywhere.
I think that those tensions warp the canopy.
Jon did put the canopy in an oven with controlled temperature, and was able
to release all the stress on it ( like torch heating after TIG welding).
I dont have the parameteres and times that he used, but I will ask him once
the canopy is built.
May be it is one way to go.
Michel
----- Original Message -----
From: <N8RV(at)gte.net>
Subject: RV8-List: Canopy sealing woes ...
>
> OK, I've listened you most of you flying RV8ers out there bitch and moan
> at one time or another about how that carefully crafted canopy skirt
> warps with temperature and just won't seal out the air when flying,
> right?
>
> Well, I have a question for everybody ...
>
> Is there any reason why a passive latch couldn't be fabricated to pull
> the canopy frame tight to the fuse when the canopy is closed and
> latched? Wouldn't a couple of aluminum or UHMW blocks, shaped to engage
> the frame or a couple of latches, work to hold the rear of the canopy
> closed and tight to the fuse?
>
> Any thoughts would be appreciated ...
>
> -- Don McNamara
> N8RV
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Canopy sealing woes ... |
From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
I've had limited success with adhesive felt, about 1/8" thick. Normally
used on the bottom of lamps or bookends.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Bill VonDane said:
>
> I have been thinking about this and was out looking at the plane tonight,
> and I think if we could come up with a piece of foam to take up all the
> space from the rear of the canopy frame weldment back to the back of the
> canopy skirt it would solve all the air leaks back there... Kinda like
> what
> Brian said about stuffing a blanket or jacket back there... Something
> soft
> that compresses easily so it wont hold the back of the canopy up, but will
> expand to keep it sealed during expansion / contraction...
>
> I am going to experiment...
>
> -Bill
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <N8RV(at)gte.net>
> To: "RV-8 List (Matronics)" ; "RV-8 List (Yahoo)"
>
> Subject: RV8-List: Canopy sealing woes ...
>
>
> OK, I've listened you most of you flying RV8ers out there bitch and moan
> at one time or another about how that carefully crafted canopy skirt
> warps with temperature and just won't seal out the air when flying,
> right?
>
> Well, I have a question for everybody ...
>
> Is there any reason why a passive latch couldn't be fabricated to pull
> the canopy frame tight to the fuse when the canopy is closed and
> latched? Wouldn't a couple of aluminum or UHMW blocks, shaped to engage
> the frame or a couple of latches, work to hold the rear of the canopy
> closed and tight to the fuse?
>
> Any thoughts would be appreciated ...
>
> -- Don McNamara
> N8RV
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
Subject: | Re: Canopy sealing woes ... |
Hi Michel,
Instead of using rivets and screws on the canopy, gluing
it on should greatly reduce the likelihood of cracking. This
is what I plan to do, and others have done with great success.
Mickey
Michel Gordillo wrote:
>
> Even though I am on the early building of my RV8, I plan to fly it in very
> cold temperatures.
> So I was concerned about a crack on the Jon Johanson canopy when flying over
> the North Pole.
> I was lucky to meet him last year at Oshkosh.
> He told me that when the canopy is formed, a lot of stress is put on it and
> when the temperature changes, tensions appears everywhere.
> I think that those tensions warp the canopy.
> Jon did put the canopy in an oven with controlled temperature, and was able
> to release all the stress on it ( like torch heating after TIG welding).
> I dont have the parameteres and times that he used, but I will ask him once
> the canopy is built.
> May be it is one way to go.
> Michel
>
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Michel Gordillo" <michelgordillo(at)telefonica.net> |
Subject: | Re: Canopy sealing woes ... |
I plan to do the same, Mike, and also the ....oven.
Problem is that the flexible glue I plan to use, is limited to -40
Centigrade.
My actual plane ( MCR 01) has the canopy glued also.
Best regards.
Michel
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Canopy sealing woes ...
>
> Hi Michel,
>
> Instead of using rivets and screws on the canopy, gluing
> it on should greatly reduce the likelihood of cracking. This
> is what I plan to do, and others have done with great success.
>
> Mickey
>
> Michel Gordillo wrote:
>>
>>
>> Even though I am on the early building of my RV8, I plan to fly it in
>> very
>> cold temperatures.
>> So I was concerned about a crack on the Jon Johanson canopy when flying
>> over
>> the North Pole.
>> I was lucky to meet him last year at Oshkosh.
>> He told me that when the canopy is formed, a lot of stress is put on it
>> and
>> when the temperature changes, tensions appears everywhere.
>> I think that those tensions warp the canopy.
>> Jon did put the canopy in an oven with controlled temperature, and was
>> able
>> to release all the stress on it ( like torch heating after TIG welding).
>> I dont have the parameteres and times that he used, but I will ask him
>> once
>> the canopy is built.
>> May be it is one way to go.
>> Michel
>>
> --
> Mickey Coggins
> http://www.rv8.ch/
> #82007 Wiring
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jim & terri truitt <jimteri1(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Canopy sealing woes |
'Bout time somebody started talking about this. I've been thinking about this
for
2 winters now. While weatherstriping and foam work, it really just addresses the
symptoms and not the problem. For whatever reason, the back of the canopy still
raises in flight. I doubt anyone's skirt fits any better than mine on the ground
and mine still has gaps in flight.
My engineer friend John Crabtree and I have pondered this to great extent. We're
not sure why the rear canopy area has gaps - be it lift outside or cabin pressurization
inside or canopy frame flex. Being an engineer, John wants to determine what causes
the gaps first, then formulate a cure. Being a non-engineer, non-builder type,
I just want to fix it.
Together we kind of agree that there needs to be a rear canopy hold down device
of some sort. Something that would engage to hold the canopy frame down when the
canopy is pulled forward, but would not require actively locking it or unlocking
it. We thought of installing fixed, angled metal pieces to the turtle deck, on
both sides of the slide rail, that would engage the rear canopy frame as the canopy
is locked in place - a passive device that would not really LOCK the rear frame
down, but just keep it from rising up. When you slide the canopy to the rear,
the
angled pieces would disengage with the movement. If you're familiar with firearms,
it would work similarly to the angled locking lugs on Sig and Glock barrels.
I even thought of doing the same thing with a second sliding block on the slide
rail. It would be wider than the nylon canopy block so it would rest against fixed
stops on each side. The block would have an angled face to the rear. The rear
canopy frame (or a fixture attached to it) would then engage the angled face of
the block just before the canopy stopped it's foreward movement. Again, not actually
locking the rear canopy down, just keeping it from rising.
Any fresh engineering thoughts out there?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Greg@itmack" <greg(at)itmack.com> |
Hi all, I'm just about ready to attach my flaps to the wings but I haven't riveted
on the bottom skins yet. Is it necessary to rivet the bottom skins on first
to accurately drill the flap hinge or can I use a heap of clecoes on the skin.
I'd prefer to leave the skins off for as long as possible so I can take longer
to decide on wiring and also I haven't got my pitot tube yet (waiting for the
heated Dynon). It would be good to drill it out now so I can get on with the
countersinking dimpling etc. and then finally prime the flap brace etc. and put
it on the shelf until I'm ready to rivet.
Also which kit has the NACA duct that is glued/riveted under the wing, it would
be nice to put that on now before the skin is riveted on.
Greg
82070
RV8
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Canopy sealing woes |
I can honestly say my 8 canopy has little to no gaps on the ground or in
flight .020 worst case I have seen, and the temp seems to have little
effect. The skirt fits tight against the fuse and you can hear a good thump
when the canopy is closed. My canopy skirt was molded to the fuse so there
is a perfect fit, but this has added some thickness, so the skirt is about
2x thicker than stock in the back part of the skirt, but it sure hugs the
fuse nicely and I think well worth the extra effort.
>
>'Bout time somebody started talking about this. I've been thinking about
>this for
>2 winters now. While weatherstriping and foam work, it really just
>addresses the
>symptoms and not the problem. For whatever reason, the back of the canopy
>still
>raises in flight. I doubt anyone's skirt fits any better than mine on the
>ground
>and mine still has gaps in flight.
>My engineer friend John Crabtree and I have pondered this to great
>extent. We're
>not sure why the rear canopy area has gaps - be it lift outside or cabin
>pressurization
>inside or canopy frame flex. Being an engineer, John wants to determine
>what causes
>the gaps first, then formulate a cure. Being a non-engineer, non-builder
>type,
>I just want to fix it.
>Together we kind of agree that there needs to be a rear canopy hold down
>device
>of some sort. Something that would engage to hold the canopy frame down
>when the
>canopy is pulled forward, but would not require actively locking it or
>unlocking
>it. We thought of installing fixed, angled metal pieces to the turtle
>deck, on
>both sides of the slide rail, that would engage the rear canopy frame as
>the canopy
>is locked in place - a passive device that would not really LOCK the rear
>frame
>down, but just keep it from rising up. When you slide the canopy to the
>rear, the
>angled pieces would disengage with the movement. If you're familiar with
>firearms,
>it would work similarly to the angled locking lugs on Sig and Glock barrels.
>I even thought of doing the same thing with a second sliding block on the
>slide
>rail. It would be wider than the nylon canopy block so it would rest
>against fixed
>stops on each side. The block would have an angled face to the rear. The
>rear
>canopy frame (or a fixture attached to it) would then engage the angled
>face of
>the block just before the canopy stopped it's foreward movement. Again,
>not actually
>locking the rear canopy down, just keeping it from rising.
>Any fresh engineering thoughts out there?
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Philip Condon" <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
Subject: | Canopy sealing woes5 |
RV8-List: Canopy sealing woes
Is the lifting of the rear canopy in flight a local low pressure area or a
more (relative) pressure area with in the cockpit area, or combination of
both effects ?
One idea is to modify the turtle deck area like the Harmon Rocket or F-1
Rocket to get rid of the shape that is causing the lifting action.
Another approach is to lessen the internal cockpit pressure with air exits.
Reverse flow household sill plate vents mounted on the inspection plates on
the wing and rear fuse will act as air exits as the aircraft moves thru the
air. This may lessen the lifting effect on the canopy. These sill plate
vents are round, available in many sizes, most hardware stores/Lowes/Home
Depot have them, made of aluminum and if mounted on the aircraft inspection
plates, allow for a easy removal/replacement of the access plate if you
don't want them later.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Clark, Thomas M UTPWR" <Tom.Clark(at)utcfuelcells.com> |
Subject: | Canopy sealing woes5 |
My RV-8 is a fastback just similar a Harmon Rocket and I have a tight
aluminum skirt. I still get a blast of air coming in at the small opening at
the canopy track on top of the fuselage. So the theory that a modified
turtle deck will change the pressure profile and stop the positive pressure
at that point is not going to help. My solution for this winter is the GIB
gets a small rag to stop the draft after the canopy is closed.
Tom Clark
525TC RV8 Fastback
-----Original Message-----
From: Philip Condon [mailto:pcondon(at)mitre.org]
Subject: RV8-List: Canopy sealing woes5
RV8-List: Canopy sealing woes
Is the lifting of the rear canopy in flight a local low pressure area or a
more (relative) pressure area with in the cockpit area, or combination of
both effects ?
One idea is to modify the turtle deck area like the Harmon Rocket or F-1
Rocket to get rid of the shape that is causing the lifting action.
Another approach is to lessen the internal cockpit pressure with air exits.
Reverse flow household sill plate vents mounted on the inspection plates on
the wing and rear fuse will act as air exits as the aircraft moves thru the
air. This may lessen the lifting effect on the canopy. These sill plate
vents are round, available in many sizes, most hardware stores/Lowes/Home
Depot have them, made of aluminum and if mounted on the aircraft inspection
plates, allow for a easy removal/replacement of the access plate if you
don't want them later.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Greg,
I drilled the flap hinge on my RV-6A (flying) and my RV-8 (not yet flying.)
Seemed to work OK. Ask Van's to get their take on it.
Steve
Swanton, Vermont
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Greg@itmack
Hi all, I'm just about ready to attach my flaps to the wings but I haven't
riveted on the bottom skins yet. Is it necessary to rivet the bottom skins
on first to accurately drill the flap hinge
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
That should read: "I drilled the flap hinge on my RV-6A (flying) and my RV-8
(not yet flying) with the skin clecoed on, not riveted." Actually the
construction manual for the RV-6 might tell you to make sure the skin is NOT
riveted on so that you can more easily line things up.
Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stephen J. Soule
Subject: RE: RV8-List: Attaching flaps
Greg,
I drilled the flap hinge on my RV-6A (flying) and my RV-8 (not yet flying.)
Seemed to work OK. Ask Van's to get their take on it.
Steve
Swanton, Vermont
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Greg@itmack
Hi all, I'm just about ready to attach my flaps to the wings but I haven't
riveted on the bottom skins yet. Is it necessary to rivet the bottom skins
on first to accurately drill the flap hinge
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
Subject: | Double Sided Tape... |
vansairforce
I am looking for some GOOD double sided tape... The kind that just looks
like a strip of glue when you peel the paper off, and really stick GOOD!!!
...not the foam crap!
Anyone have any leads on this stuff?
-Bill VonDane
RV-8A - Colorado
www.rv8a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gosh2Fly(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Double Sided Tape... |
check-out WWW.WINGSANDWHEELS website. Sailplanes use a double sided tape for
the mylar seals on the wings. Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
vansairforce
they have a ton of these on ebay for like $20!
http://tinyurl.com/4mxey
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill VonDane
Subject: Re: [RV-8] back seat heat
How about this heating blanket!?
http://www.sportsimportsltd.com/12volheathea.html
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: Joel Harding
Subject: Re: [RV-8] back seat heat
Another alternative for warming the GIB would be a 12 V heating pad. You could
sit on it, warm the tootsies one at a time, drape it over your head for that chilly
draft on the back of your neck, or just fold it up and use it for a pillow.
I could go on, but you get the idea. The down side is the extra cord floating
around the cabin, but for only forty bucks it might be worth a try. It's on
the same web page Dane mentioned, under Automotive Seat Heaters.
Joel Harding (Still waiting for the paint man to finish)
On Jan 3, 2005, at 6:57 AM, Dane Patterson wrote:
I ordered my rear seat heat kit from Sports Imports LTD.
http://www.sportsimportsltd.com/afcarseathea.html
A Two Element kit for the seat bottom and the seat back sells for about $130.00.
They work great for the back seat and my wife is very pleased with them.
I don't think they would work for the front seat. The elements are heating pads
which can be cut in length but not in width. The front seats on an RV-8 are
very narrow, so this could be a problem, unless you wrap the element around
the sides, and maybe the back? The elements go inside the cushion between the
foam seat cushion and the cover, so they aren't really visible. You might want
to order the kit and sent the elements to who ever makes up your seats. Oregon
Aero glues everything together when they make their seats, so if they can
incorporate the heating elements into the seats, it'll save you the trouble
of having to peal the seat covers off the cushions and re-glueing them back down.
Once you have all the drafts from leaking canopy skirts, etc. the electric elements
in the rear seats should provide all the heat necessary for your GIB.
They draw about 3 - 4 Amps until they are warm, and the thermostat cuts down
the current to about 1 - 2 Amps.
David Rogers wrote:
Dane,
Where'd you get them from ? What brand name are they ? details please.
Thanks,
Dave R.
RV-8, Fuselage
N173DR (reserved)
76 Grumman AA-1B/160hp N1649R
-----Original Message-----
From: Dane Patterson [mailto:DanePatterson(at)charter.net]
Sent: Sunday, December 12, 2004 6:35 PM
To: RV-8(at)yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [RV-8] back seat heat
I put electric seat heaters in the cushions of the back seat. My wife loves them.
Dane Patterson
On Dec 12, 2004, at 2:42 AM, n767rk wrote:
what have builders done in the past for heat to the back seat of an
RV 8. Ron Korn
=95 To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/RV-8/
=95 To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
RV-8-unsubscribe(at)yahoogroups.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
Subject: | -8A upper gear leg fairings... |
vansairforce
Anyone have some good ideas / photos of how to attach the upper gear leg
fairings on an -8A?
-Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn(at)cox.net> |
,
Subject: | Re: [VAF Mailing List] Double Sided Tape... |
Bill,
If you have a good specialty auto paint and trim place in your area they
will have the stuff for auto trim. I have some and it is great but you've
only got one shot to get it right!!! If you don't have such a place let me
know and I'll pick it up for you.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com>
; "vansairforce"
Subject: [VAF Mailing List] Double Sided Tape...
>
>
> I am looking for some GOOD double sided tape... The kind that just looks
> like a strip of glue when you peel the paper off, and really stick GOOD!!!
> ...not the foam crap!
>
> Anyone have any leads on this stuff?
>
>
> -Bill VonDane
> RV-8A - Colorado
> www.rv8a.com
>
>
> Help save the life of a child. Support St. Jude Children's Research
Hospital's
> 'Thanks & Giving.'
> http://us.click.yahoo.com/6iY7fA/5WnJAA/Y3ZIAA/1yWplB/TM
>
> Online help on this group at:
> http://help.yahoo.com/help/groups/
>
>
> <*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/vansairforce/
>
> <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> vansairforce-unsubscribe(at)yahoogroups.com
>
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | luckymacy(at)comcast.net (lucky) |
Subject: | Re: Canopy sealing woes |
I'm using a 1/4 inch thick canopy (ie heavier than Van's stock canopies) and I
built up a heavy, stiff, thick, super comforming rear skirt with multiple layers
of fiberglass/microballoon slurry. It will not vibrate nor change shape at
high speed without a fight.
When my canopy seats, the whole mess just doesn't want to budge in any direction
including up - in the garage anyway ;-)
Lucky
-------------- Original message --------------
>
> 'Bout time somebody started talking about this. I've been thinking about this
> for
> 2 winters now. While weatherstriping and foam work, it really just addresses
> the
> symptoms and not the problem. For whatever reason, the back of the canopy still
> raises in flight. I doubt anyone's skirt fits any better than mine on the
> ground
> and mine still has gaps in flight.
> My engineer friend John Crabtree and I have pondered this to great extent.
> We're
> not sure why the rear canopy area has gaps - be it lift outside or cabin
> pressurization
> inside or canopy frame flex. Being an engineer, John wants to determine what
> causes
> the gaps first, then formulate a cure. Being a non-engineer, non-builder type,
> I just want to fix it.
> Together we kind of agree that there needs to be a rear canopy hold down device
> of some sort. Something that would engage to hold the canopy frame down when
> the
> canopy is pulled forward, but would not require actively locking it or unlocking
> it. We thought of installing fixed, angled metal pieces to the turtle deck, on
> both sides of the slide rail, that would engage the rear canopy frame as the
> canopy
> is locked in place - a passive device that would not really LOCK the rear frame
> down, but just keep it from rising up. When you slide the canopy to the rear,
> the
> angled pieces would disengage with the movement. If you're familiar with
> firearms,
> it would work similarly to the angled locking lugs on Sig and Glock barrels.
> I even thought of doing the same thing with a second sliding block on the slide
> rail. It would be wider than the nylon canopy block so it would rest against
> fixed
> stops on each side. The block would have an angled face to the rear. The rear
> canopy frame (or a fixture attached to it) would then engage the angled face
of
> the block just before the canopy stopped it's foreward movement. Again, not
> actually
> locking the rear canopy down, just keeping it from rising.
> Any fresh engineering thoughts out there?
>
>
>
>
>
>
I'm using a 1/4 inch thick canopy (ie heavier than Van's stock canopies) and I
built up a heavy, stiff, thick,super comforming rear skirtwith multiple layers
of fiberglass/microballoon slurry. It will not vibrate nor change shape at high
speed without a fight.
When my canopy seats, the whole mess just doesn't want to budge in any direction
including up- in the garage anyway ;-)
Lucky
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV8-List message posted by: jim terri truitt
'Bout time somebody started talking about this. I've been thinking about this
for
2 winters now. While weatherstriping and foam work, it really just addresses
the
symptoms and not the problem. For whatever reason, the back of the canopy still
raises in flight. I doubt anyone's skirt fits any better than mine on the
ground
and mine still has gaps in flight.
My engineer friend John Crabtree and I have pondered this to great extent.
We're
not sure why the rear canopy area has gaps - be it lift outside or cabin
pressurization
inside or canopy frame flex. Being an engineer, John wants to determine what
causes
the
gaps first, then formulate a cure. Being a non-engineer, non-builder type,
I just want to fix it.
Together we kind of agree that there needs to be a rear canopy hold down device
of some sort. Something that would engage to hold the canopy frame down when
the
canopy is pulled forward, but would not require actively locking it or unlocking
it. We thought of installing fixed, angled metal pieces to the turtle deck, on
both sides of the slide rail, that would engage the rear canopy frame as the
canopy
is locked in place - a passive device that would not really LOCK the rear frame
down, but just keep it from rising up. When you slide the canopy to the rear,
the
angled pieces would disengage with the movement. If you're familiar with
firearms,
it would work similarly to the angled locking lugs on Sig and Glock barrels.
I even thought of doing the s
ame thing with a second sliding block on the slide
rail. It would be wider than the nylon canopy block so it would rest against
fixed
stops on each side. The block would have an angled face to the rear. The rear
canopy frame (or a fixture attached to it) would then engage the angled face of
the block just before the canopy stopped it's foreward movement. Again, not
actually
locking the rear canopy down, just keeping it from rising.
Any fresh engineering thoughts out there?
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Double Sided Tape... |
From: | "Greg V. Miller" <gvm3(at)cableone.net> |
Woven fiberglass carpet tape works...
>
> I am looking for some GOOD double sided tape... The kind that just looks
> like a strip of glue when you peel the paper off, and really stick GOOD!!!
> ...not the foam crap!
>
> Anyone have any leads on this stuff?
>
>
> -Bill VonDane
> RV-8A - Colorado
> www.rv8a.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John D. Heath" <alto_q(at)direcway.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-List: five year RV8 report - gear bolting |
I missed that , had to go back and check. The MS21042 are also much lower
profile than NAS365 nut and the reduced diameter of the wrenching area
should allow even more room. I can't see any reason these nuts need to be
low profile unless bolt length is an issue. We'll have to check for a thread
and a half extending through the nut when they are all torqued down. The
strength is even better so I'm going to be trying them when the time comes.
John D.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Re: RV-List: five year RV8 report - gear bolting
>
> Hi,
>
> The nuts called out on my plans are NAS 679A6, if we
> are talking about the same nuts, the ones in the gear
> tower:
>
> http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story=20040404153921362
>
> Van's calls this a "Low profile, Self-Locking 3/8-24".
>
> Mickey
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
Subject: | Aero-Strategies Gear Leg Intersection Fairings |
Hi,
Has anyone tried these gear leg fairings on an RV8
with the Grove airfoil gear?
http://www.aerosu.com/part3.htm
Thanks,
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV's and EAA in Georgia... |
Bill:
You thinking about moving to the East Coast?
Len Leggette, RV-8A
Greensboro, NC N910LL
313 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV's and EAA in Georgia... |
Hey Len...
Yeah... Thinking of moving to Evans,.GA...
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: <Lenleg(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV8-List: RV's and EAA in Georgia...
Bill:
You thinking about moving to the East Coast?
Len Leggette, RV-8A
Greensboro, NC N910LL
313 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bruce Niles" <bniles(at)cfl.rr.com> |
I saw a web site or mybe a posting here of and -8 builder who use pieces off a
Thorpe or Rocket to create a better locking mechanism.
Does this ring a bell with anyone?
________________________________________________________________________________
I am currently building a RV8-A and added a second latch on the opposite side
of my canopy. It was recommended to me by other builders. I had vans sell
me the duplicate latch pieces including the pin that is welded in the roll bar.
It was easy to do. Although I can weld I wanted it to be pretty so I just
had my local welding shop tig them for me.
looks great. The canopy hardly moves as compared to the single front latch.
I think that the rear single pin will be enough with the second front latch.
Bruce Voutas
N621BV
FUSELAGE
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Huft <rv8(at)lazy8.net> |
"rv-list(at)matronics.com"
Listers -
I have put my LASAR system on ebay. So far, there have been no bids, so
looks like someone will get it cheap. I would rather have a fellow
lister get the bargain.
Item number 4520429755
John Huft
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "tpu2(at)juno.com" <tpu2(at)juno.com> |
Subject: | Fuel Pump - Bendix - IO360A1A |
I've had no luck in finding reasons for and against using an electric
pump setup other than AFP. I viewed a few installations on the list,
and I see 16 or more connections between the tank and the engine
driven pump. Aside from a cobbled appearance, I cringe at using a
$600 backup system to a $150. engine driven pump! That said, does
anyone know why a simple flow thru electric pump with a check valve and bypass
isn't used? At worst, I'd have to add a regulator.
Surely some of you researched alternatives before ordering the AFP sys
from Vans. If I'm missing something obvious, I won't take offense at
the correction.
Ted Utley
8A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Esten Spears" <ewspears(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: Fuel Pump - Bendix - IO360A1A |
Ted,
I agree with you 100%! I did lots of research to avoid spending $600 on
a Kludgy Rube Goldberg AFP System. I was ready to buy a Holley Racing pump
and adding a Regulator and Check Valve. But then I found a new Weldon on
ebay for $150 and went that way. MUCH Nicer & Cleaner Installation! and the
Weldon has a built in Check Valve.
Esten Spears, RV8A, 80922, N922ES, Leeward Air Ranch, Ocala, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: <tpu2(at)juno.com>
Subject: RV8-List: Fuel Pump - Bendix - IO360A1A
>
>
> I've had no luck in finding reasons for and against using an electric
> pump setup other than AFP. I viewed a few installations on the list,
> and I see 16 or more connections between the tank and the engine
> driven pump. Aside from a cobbled appearance, I cringe at using a
> $600 backup system to a $150. engine driven pump! That said, does
> anyone know why a simple flow thru electric pump with a check valve and
> bypass isn't used? At worst, I'd have to add a regulator.
>
> Surely some of you researched alternatives before ordering the AFP sys
> from Vans. If I'm missing something obvious, I won't take offense at
> the correction.
>
> Ted Utley
> 8A
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Fuel Pump - Bendix - IO360A1A |
From: | Francis Butler <francis_butler(at)msn.com> |
You are missing the obvious. Use a Weldon high pressure electric fuel
pump. Not cheap, but what is having a reliable fuel system worth?
F.Butler
RV8
>
>
> I've had no luck in finding reasons for and against using an electric
> pump setup other than AFP. I viewed a few installations on the list,
> and I see 16 or more connections between the tank and the engine
> driven pump. Aside from a cobbled appearance, I cringe at using a
> $600 backup system to a $150. engine driven pump! That said, does
> anyone know why a simple flow thru electric pump with a check valve and bypass
> isn't used? At worst, I'd have to add a regulator.
>
> Surely some of you researched alternatives before ordering the AFP sys
> from Vans. If I'm missing something obvious, I won't take offense at
> the correction.
>
> Ted Utley
> 8A
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Fuel Pump - Bendix - IO360A1A |
This summer I used a Holley Blue ($100 locally) fuel pump when I installed a
Bendix RSA-5 fuel injection system on my parallel valve (I)O-360 in a Pitts
S-1. I did not use the supplied pressure regulator. I used a simple 1 way valve
to allow the fuel to flow around the backup pump during normal operation.
The Holley Blue pump is only rated at about 14 PSI at high flow rates. During
ground tests that bypassed the mechanical pump the engine ran up to the same
static rpm and had the same indicated fuel flow (pressure at the spider) as with
the mechanical pump. I am very happy with the holley installation and feel
it is as reliable as any other alternative, but it does sometimes break the
squelch on my handheld radio when I turn the pump on. I am not sure if the radio
interference is due to the pump (which sits in the cockpit a foot or two from
the antenna) or my installation, but don't care too much since I normally
don't use the radio. I might go with a high $$$$ Weldon or similar pump on my
-8
project due to the radio interference and wanting to do everything as slick
as possible on the RV.
Just my two cents.
Greg
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Speedy11(at)aol.com |
Ted,
You and Esten opened my eyes. I didn't realized there were other choices in
fuel pumps. I'm going to look into the Weldon pumps. Thanks!
Stan Sutterfield
www.rv-8a.net
In a message dated 1/21/2005 2:59:11 AM Eastern Standard Time,
rv8-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
Ted,
I agree with you 100%! I did lots of research to avoid spending $600 on
a Kludgy Rube Goldberg AFP System. I was ready to buy a Holley Racing pump
and adding a Regulator and Check Valve. But then I found a new Weldon on
ebay for $150 and went that way. MUCH Nicer & Cleaner Installation! and the
Weldon has a built in Check Valve.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "David Fenstermacher" <dfenstermacher(at)earthlink.net> |
Thought I'd ask off list.
Which Weldon fuel pump did you use?
Thanks for any help.
Dave
David Fenstermacher
dfenstermacher(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com |
Concerning fuel pumps I'd go for quality and proven reliability. Weldon
seems very good - however, which pumps one should be thinking of? They have
the aerospace line of pumps (15-40 psi, 25-45 GPH - this seems way more than
enough for an IO360) mechanically driven by a separate electric motor, and
added bonus is that they contain a relief valve. Weldon also has the
automotive 500-A flow thru with its self contained motor but which needs an
external regulator (60 psi, 60 GPH - For an IO-360 this second pump seems to
be overkill).
Within the context of an RV8 with an IO360, my understanding is that I
basically need an electric boost pump for starting and for ensuring
satisfactory fuel pressure during takeoff. Am I correct? If so, this
precludes a continuous duty pump.
As for Air Flow Performance - they have a pretty flash based web site but
terrible in that they offer no info nor pricing on their products - it is
near useless and one must dish out 25+ dollars to get their paper catalog
for more info - it is really a pay to see scenario.
My question to listers are:
Boost or continuous duty?
Which Weldon?
What about AFP?
One last question: are IO360s normally supplied with their own mechanical
pumps and if so, at what RPM will they self prime if at all?
Thanks all
Michle
RV8 wings
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Speedy11(at)aol.com
> Sent: Friday, January 21, 2005 8:26 PM
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV8-List: Re: Fuel Pump
>
>
> Ted,
> You and Esten opened my eyes. I didn't realized there were other choices
> in
> fuel pumps. I'm going to look into the Weldon pumps. Thanks!
> Stan Sutterfield
> www.rv-8a.net
>
> In a message dated 1/21/2005 2:59:11 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> rv8-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
> Ted,
> I agree with you 100%! I did lots of research to avoid spending $600
> on
> a Kludgy Rube Goldberg AFP System. I was ready to buy a Holley Racing pump
> and adding a Regulator and Check Valve. But then I found a new Weldon on
> ebay for $150 and went that way. MUCH Nicer & Cleaner Installation! and
> the
> Weldon has a built in Check Valve.
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com> |
"vansairforce"
Subject: | Headsets.....again... |
Ok, I know we have been over this before, I just got through ready the
archives...
I am thinking of getting some Bose X headsets, but want to know if anyone
has used any of these others before I spend the $$... I would also like to
know what your old headset was and how they compare...
Bose X (stereo) - www.bose.com - $995
Clarity Aloft (??) - www.clarityaloft.com - $550
Quiet Technologies (stereo) - www.quiettechnologies.com - $335
Panther Electronics (mono) - www.pantherelectronics.com - $599
Thanks in advance!
-Bill VonDane
bill(at)vondane.com
RV-8A - Colorado Springs
www.rv8a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Glenn Bridges" <gbridges(at)altamahaemc.net> |
Subject: | Re: Headsets.....again... |
bill, I had a set of david clarks, noise reduction kind, and I got the bose.
No comparison in my opinion. Dramatic noise reduction and i wear them on ;my
tractor and riding lawn mower too. I am getting old and losing my hearing
and I think these bose sets will prevent further hearing loss. For what it
is worth. I tell friends how much is a good tool worth, a tool like your
ears? glenn bridges rv4
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com>
; "vansairforce"
Subject: RV8-List: Headsets.....again...
>
> Ok, I know we have been over this before, I just got through ready the
> archives...
>
> I am thinking of getting some Bose X headsets, but want to know if anyone
> has used any of these others before I spend the $$... I would also like
> to
> know what your old headset was and how they compare...
>
> Bose X (stereo) - www.bose.com - $995
> Clarity Aloft (??) - www.clarityaloft.com - $550
> Quiet Technologies (stereo) - www.quiettechnologies.com - $335
> Panther Electronics (mono) - www.pantherelectronics.com - $599
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> -Bill VonDane
> bill(at)vondane.com
> RV-8A - Colorado Springs
> www.rv8a.com
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Wayne Sweet" <w_sweet(at)comcast.net> |
,
Subject: | Re: [VAF Mailing List] Headsets.....again... |
I flew with Bose Series I headsets for 10 years. Got the X model and the other
comments are exactly dead on; another very important characteristic is the very
excellent mic. You need not "eat" the darn mic any more; 1/2 " is the recommended
distance and it works super duper.
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill VonDane
To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com ; RV-8(at)yahoogroups.com ; rv-list(at)matronics.com ; vansairforce
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2005 5:17 PM
Subject: [VAF Mailing List] Headsets.....again...
Ok, I know we have been over this before, I just got through ready the
archives...
I am thinking of getting some Bose X headsets, but want to know if anyone
has used any of these others before I spend the $$... I would also like to
know what your old headset was and how they compare...
Bose X (stereo) - www.bose.com - $995
Clarity Aloft (??) - www.clarityaloft.com - $550
Quiet Technologies (stereo) - www.quiettechnologies.com - $335
Panther Electronics (mono) - www.pantherelectronics.com - $599
Thanks in advance!
-Bill VonDane
bill(at)vondane.com
RV-8A - Colorado Springs
www.rv8a.com
Online help on this group at:
http://help.yahoo.com/help/groups/
a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/vansairforce/
b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
vansairforce-unsubscribe(at)yahoogroups.com
Try www.SPAMfighter.com for free now!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
Subject: | Re: Headsets.....again... |
RV-8(at)yahoogroups.com, rv-list(at)matronics.com,
vansairforce
I just wanted to clarify... I already have a pair of Lightspeed QFR CC
ANR's, and I like them.....but lately some friends of mine have been trying
to get me to try their Bose X sets...
What I really want is one of the lightweight, headsetless (that's my new
word) headsets... I guess I should have left Bose out of the mix...
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com>
; "vansairforce"
Subject: Headsets.....again...
Ok, I know we have been over this before, I just got through ready the
archives...
I am thinking of getting some Bose X headsets, but want to know if anyone
has used any of these others before I spend the $$... I would also like to
know what your old headset was and how they compare...
Bose X (stereo) - www.bose.com - $995
Clarity Aloft (??) - www.clarityaloft.com - $550
Quiet Technologies (stereo) - www.quiettechnologies.com - $335
Panther Electronics (mono) - www.pantherelectronics.com - $599
Thanks in advance!
-Bill VonDane
bill(at)vondane.com
RV-8A - Colorado Springs
www.rv8a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | rveighta <rveighta(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | RV-8 Landing gear question |
I'm in the process of installing the main gear legs on my RV-8 and have run into
some problems: When I attach the plumb bob lines per the manual to the leading
edges of the gear legs, I am able to get the four lines in alignment only by
canting the gear legs so far forward that (1) the forward bolt hole in each
of the U803 outboard attach brackets is partially underneath the F 851PP skin,
and (2) in this position, I can't maintain the 3/16" dimension between the edge
of the fuselage and the F 803 from front to rear (If I get 3/16" at the rear,
I get 1/4" at the front).
When I first started this little project, I thought the gear legs would be pretty
much centered in the opening where the cover plate goes. Reckon I should know
by now that things that look simple usually aren't... Maybe you just put 'em
in the center and shim the wheels for proper toe-in.
Any way, has anyone else encountered this problem and what did you end up doing?
Walt Shipley RV-8A Flying, RV-8 Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Rodney Daulton <farmerrd(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Subject: | manual trim actuator |
I am putting a new instrument panel in my 8 and it has manual trim. Does the vernier
control part of the time mechanism come apart from the cable so I don't
have to remove the cable the entire length of the airplane...thanks...Rod Daulton
rdaulton3(at)comcast.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: manual trim actuator |
Yes is comes apart right behind (forward of) the knob assy. I'll take
a picture if you need one.
Regards,
Bob
wrote:
>
> I am putting a new instrument panel in my 8 and it has manual trim. Does the
vernier control part of the time mechanism come apart from the cable so I don't
have to remove the cable the entire length of the airplane...thanks...Rod Daulton
> rdaulton3(at)comcast.net
>
>
>
--
Thanks,
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <fairings4u(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Empennage -8 Faring ready from Fairings-Etc |
For those who have been waiting so patiently, the Emmpennage Fairing for the -8
is now available. Check out the web site: www.fairings-etc.com
Bob Snedaker
Fairings-Etc.
www.fairings-etc.com
bob@fairings-etc.com
603 203 9795 (cell)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com |
Subject: | Experience with Faring ready from Fairings-Etc |
Listers - I am most interested in saving time at some expense by getting
ready made fairings for my RV8. Could some of you guys comment positive or
negative on your experience with www.fairings-etc.com.
Thanks,
Michle Delsol
RV8 - Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jim Bean <jim-bean(at)att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Experience with Faring ready from Fairings-Etc |
owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
> Listers - I am most interested in saving time at some expense by getting
> ready made fairings for my RV8. Could some of you guys comment positive or
> negative on your experience with www.fairings-etc.com.
>
> Thanks,
> Michle Delsol
> RV8 - Wings
>
I have the gear leg fairings and they are excellent. The empenage
fairing that came with the kit fit just fine. I wouldn't be inclined to
replace it with the one from fairings-etc. YMMV.
Jim Bean
RV-8 almost done
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ulf Petersson" <ulf(at)megadoor.com> |
I am getting ready to attach the canopy skirt and wonder what, if any,
adhesive or sealant to use between the skirt and the canopy.
Any suggestions or experience appreciated.
Thanks
Ulf Petersson
Peachtree City GA
RV8 A QB
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jim & terri truitt <jimteri1(at)earthlink.net> |
I have Bob's gear leg to wheel pant intersection fairings (purchased while building)
and I like them. I epoxied them onto the wheel pant and was able to get
a very good fit with the gear leg fairings. I feel I saved a lot of time by
not making my own. I have purchased his upper nose gear intesection fairing but
have not installed it yet, mainly because I'm too busy flying. I now intend
to purchase his new 8 empennage fairing as mine does not fit well since I shimed
the horizontal stab. If you want to save time, or hate laying up custom
fiberglass on your own (like me), Bob offers a worthwhile service and, from what
I've seen so far, pretty good fit.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Lexel worked well for me.
http://bowenaero.com/mt3/archives/2003/11/canopy.html
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ulf Petersson [mailto:ulf(at)megadoor.com]
> Sent: Sunday, January 30, 2005 9:03 AM
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV8-List: Canopy skirt
>
>
> I am getting ready to attach the canopy skirt and wonder
> what, if any, adhesive or sealant to use between the skirt
> and the canopy.
>
> Any suggestions or experience appreciated.
>
> Thanks
>
> Ulf Petersson
> Peachtree City GA
> RV8 A QB
>
>
> =========
> Matronics Forums.
> =========
> =========
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Donald Erickson" <dle(at)joplin.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-8 Landing gear question |
Hi Walt. I drilled and bolted my RV8 _grove light weight gear this weekend.
Had no problem. ( that I know of.) I was able to keep the 3/16" clearence.
It seems centered in the Opening. I am sure some final shim may be required.
You don't suppose your gear may be bent or improperly formed. Don
----- Original Message -----
From: "rveighta" <rveighta(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 Landing gear question
>
> I'm in the process of installing the main gear legs on my RV-8 and have
run into some problems: When I attach the plumb bob lines per the manual to
the leading edges of the gear legs, I am able to get the four lines in
alignment only by canting the gear legs so far forward that (1) the forward
bolt hole in each of the U803 outboard attach brackets is partially
underneath the F 851PP skin, and (2) in this position, I can't maintain the
3/16" dimension between the edge of the fuselage and the F 803 from front to
rear (If I get 3/16" at the rear, I get 1/4" at the front).
>
> When I first started this little project, I thought the gear legs would be
pretty much centered in the opening where the cover plate goes. Reckon I
should know by now that things that look simple usually aren't... Maybe you
just put 'em in the center and shim the wheels for proper toe-in.
>
> Any way, has anyone else encountered this problem and what did you end up
doing?
>
> Walt Shipley RV-8A Flying, RV-8 Fuselage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <fairings4u(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Re: Fairings etc. |
Thanks for the kind words. I keep 'trying'.
Bob Snedaker
Fairings-Etc.
www.fairings-etc.com
bob@fairings-etc.com
>
> From: jim & terri truitt <jimteri1(at)earthlink.net>
> Date: 2005/01/30 Sun AM 10:50:52 EST
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV8-List: Fairings etc.
>
>
> I have Bob's gear leg to wheel pant intersection fairings (purchased while building)
and I like them. I epoxied them onto the wheel pant and was able to get
a very good fit with the gear leg fairings. I feel I saved a lot of time by
not making my own. I have purchased his upper nose gear intesection fairing
but have not installed it yet, mainly because I'm too busy flying. I now intend
to purchase his new 8 empennage fairing as mine does not fit well since I
shimed the horizontal stab. If you want to save time, or hate laying up custom
fiberglass on your own (like me), Bob offers a worthwhile service and, from
what I've seen so far, pretty good fit.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <fairings4u(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Re: Experience with Faring ready from Fairings-Etc |
Jim, Thanks for the kind words. I keep working on it.
Bob Snedaker
Fairings-Etc
www.fairings-etc.com
bob@fairings-etc.com
>
> From: Jim Bean <jim-bean(at)att.net>
> Date: 2005/01/29 Sat PM 10:36:30 EST
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV8-List: Experience with Faring ready from Fairings-Etc
>
>
> owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com wrote:
> >
> > Listers - I am most interested in saving time at some expense by getting
> > ready made fairings for my RV8. Could some of you guys comment positive or
> > negative on your experience with www.fairings-etc.com.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Michle Delsol
> > RV8 - Wings
> >
> I have the gear leg fairings and they are excellent. The empenage
> fairing that came with the kit fit just fine. I wouldn't be inclined to
> replace it with the one from fairings-etc. YMMV.
> Jim Bean
> RV-8 almost done
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com |
Subject: | Re: Experience with Faring ready from Fairings-Etc |
Bob,
You have a reputation for doing good work judging from the responses I got
on this list and on the others.
Please count me in for a full set for my RV8 - now it is just a question of
timing. I am currently at the Wings stage and should hopefully order the
finishing kit after I finish the fuselage canoe part - this year hopefully.
Could you possibly email your lead time?
Regards,
Michle
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of fairings4u(at)cox.net
> Sent: Monday, January 31, 2005 5:36 AM
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Re: RV8-List: Experience with Faring ready from Fairings-Etc
>
>
> Jim, Thanks for the kind words. I keep working on it.
>
> Bob Snedaker
> Fairings-Etc
> www.fairings-etc.com
> bob@fairings-etc.com
> >
> > From: Jim Bean <jim-bean(at)att.net>
> > Date: 2005/01/29 Sat PM 10:36:30 EST
> > To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV8-List: Experience with Faring ready from Fairings-Etc
> >
> >
> > owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com wrote:
> > >
> > > Listers - I am most interested in saving time at some expense by
> getting
> > > ready made fairings for my RV8. Could some of you guys comment
> positive or
> > > negative on your experience with www.fairings-etc.com.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Michle Delsol
> > > RV8 - Wings
> > >
> > I have the gear leg fairings and they are excellent. The empenage
> > fairing that came with the kit fit just fine. I wouldn't be inclined to
> > replace it with the one from fairings-etc. YMMV.
> > Jim Bean
> > RV-8 almost done
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Canopy skirt |
In a message dated 1/30/05 9:04:13 AM Eastern Standard Time, ulf(at)megadoor.com
writes:
> I am getting ready to attach the canopy skirt and wonder what, if any,
> adhesive or sealant to use between the skirt and the canopy.
>
> Any suggestions or experience appreciated.
>
A friend here just used 3m-5200. I am watching and learning........
waiting for them to test :)
Years ago I worked at a boat dealership and was amazed
when the bolts were removed from an outboard and the motor remained
on the transom. (V-6 mercury) and it was not just once this took place.
3m-5200 was used
RV-4
RV-8 QB ....canoe
Sal Capra
Lakeland, FL
My Home Page
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-8 Landing gear question |
Just a thought, but are you sure you have the left gear on the left side of
the airplane? With the thing upside down and all when you drilled and
installed the legs, it could happen. Just my two cents worth.
Steve Struyk
N842S (Res.)
RV-8, Finish
----- Original Message -----
From: "Donald Erickson" <dle(at)joplin.com>
Subject: Re: RV8-List: RV-8 Landing gear question
>
> Hi Walt. I drilled and bolted my RV8 _grove light weight gear this
> weekend.
> Had no problem. ( that I know of.) I was able to keep the 3/16" clearence.
> It seems centered in the Opening. I am sure some final shim may be
> required.
> You don't suppose your gear may be bent or improperly formed. Don
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "rveighta" <rveighta(at)earthlink.net>
> To:
> Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 Landing gear question
>
>
>>
>> I'm in the process of installing the main gear legs on my RV-8 and have
> run into some problems: When I attach the plumb bob lines per the manual
> to
> the leading edges of the gear legs, I am able to get the four lines in
> alignment only by canting the gear legs so far forward that (1) the
> forward
> bolt hole in each of the U803 outboard attach brackets is partially
> underneath the F 851PP skin, and (2) in this position, I can't maintain
> the
> 3/16" dimension between the edge of the fuselage and the F 803 from front
> to
> rear (If I get 3/16" at the rear, I get 1/4" at the front).
>>
>> When I first started this little project, I thought the gear legs would
>> be
> pretty much centered in the opening where the cover plate goes. Reckon I
> should know by now that things that look simple usually aren't... Maybe
> you
> just put 'em in the center and shim the wheels for proper toe-in.
>>
>> Any way, has anyone else encountered this problem and what did you end up
> doing?
>>
>> Walt Shipley RV-8A Flying, RV-8 Fuselage
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
Subject: | Real Time Weather... |
vansairforce
Anyone have real time weather in the cockpit yet? How does it work?
-Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | RE: RV8-List Digest: 7 Msgs - 01/30/05 |
Ulf:
You'll probably get different answers to this, but I feel strongly that you
should use NO adhesive between the canopy and the skirt. The pop rivets
will hold it in place quite securely and adhesives have an unpredictable
propensity to react witht he plastic canopy, causing cracks, crazing and
other kinds of mischief.
George Kilsihek
N888GK flying
RV-8 kit # 80221 fuselage
>From: "Ulf Petersson" <ulf(at)megadoor.com>
>Subject: RV8-List: Canopy skirt
>
>
>I am getting ready to attach the canopy skirt and wonder what, if any,
>adhesive or sealant to use between the skirt and the canopy.
>
>Any suggestions or experience appreciated.
>
>Thanks
>
>Ulf Petersson
>Peachtree City GA
>RV8 A QB
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Speedy11(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 01/29/05 |
Michle,
I've already ordered my fairing. The products I've seen in the past from
Bob Snedaker were excellent quality. His designs add flair to the airframe.
I
like his designs. I will likely order gear leg and wheel pant fairings also.
Stan Sutterfield
www.rv-8a.net
In a message dated 1/30/2005 2:58:59 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
rv8-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
Listers - I am most interested in saving time at some expense by getting
ready made fairings for my RV8. Could some of you guys comment positive or
negative on your experience with www.fairings-etc.com.
Thanks,
Michle Delsol
RV8 - Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Michel Gordillo" <michelgordillo(at)telefonica.net> |
Subject: | Re: Canopy skirt |
Hi Ulf.
There is in Europe a very good product to be used as adhesive between skirt
and canopy.
It provides a thick bond and flexible to accomodete thermal expansion of the
canopy even when temperatures reach minus 40 degrees centigrade.
The name is Flex 310 M. It is isocyanate free, silicone and halogene free,
overpaintable, sandable, good UV stability, salt water resistant and solvent
free.
The brand is Weicon,
I have used it in my last plane ( MCR01) and flew around the world with it.
Also plan to use it on my RV8 ( empenage complete,working on the fuselage).
Check the next web page: www.weicon.de
Best regards, Michel
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ulf Petersson" <ulf(at)megadoor.com>
Subject: RV8-List: Canopy skirt
>
> I am getting ready to attach the canopy skirt and wonder what, if any,
> adhesive or sealant to use between the skirt and the canopy.
>
> Any suggestions or experience appreciated.
>
> Thanks
>
> Ulf Petersson
> Peachtree City GA
> RV8 A QB
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
Subject: | single alternator and a small backup battery... |
vansairforce
I am looking to install a small backup battery in my RV to support a few
systems should my elec system take a crap...
Did anyone do this kind of thing on their RV? Do you have a wiring diagram
of how you did it?
Thanks...
-Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Airwatch4(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Canopy skirt |
> I am getting ready to attach the canopy skirt and wonder what, if any,
> adhesive or sealant to use between the skirt and the canopy.
>
> Any suggestions or experience appreciated.
Greetings, since I have quite a bit of experience in this area outside of
RV'S, I'll post a couple of thoughts and tricks that I learned over time from
personal experience and from others. Whether or not you can apply it here I
don't know, since I'm still quite a ways off from canopy fun. Also, don't take
anything I say here as gospel. Use your own judgement and visceral feelings
towards these suggestions. Remember, it's your ultimate responsibility for
your application.
First off, I was a military helicopter mechanic and I'm currently a
mechanic with a law enforcement unit. My experiences have been centered around
helicopters. In dealing with helicopters, there are greater vibrations than what
is involved with airplanes, so keep this in mind.
When the factory installs the plastic, they DO use an adhesive. Exactly
what substance it is, I don't know, but can find out if you'd like to go that
route. In addition, Pro-Seal is used in place of or in conjunction with the
adhesive. I believe most of you know Pro-Seal as that wicked, nasty stuff you
use to seal your gas tanks. You may have a shocked and horrified look on your
face, but Pro-Seal is good stuff that is used a lot in aviation.
My recommendation is not to use the adhesive. Two years ago, we changed out
all the Plexiglas in our helicopters. We have 6 Bell helicopters and 5 of them
have all Plexiglas. That's 2 windshields and 2 chin bubbles in each
aircraft. So as you can probably tell, I don't like Plexiglas anymore. Your goal
is
not to fuse the Plexiglas as permanently as you can to the skirt. The reason
being, if you ever have to change your canopy (cracked,scratched,etc.), you
will cuss if you used adhesive. We have spent a lot of time trying to GRIND
what was left of the canopy out of the window channels so we could install the
new ones. Think what an ugly mess that would look like. We use Pro-Seal to
seal our windows. Its a lot softer and cushions the Plexiglas better. In
addition, it can be painted over and can be removed easier later on with less
drastic implements. The purpose of Pro-Seal is a leveling agent that helps smooth
and support the transition from the riveted "non-budging" areas to the
"free-floating"areas. This reduces any stress that may be present or develop there.
The secondary purpose is obviously to help keep it attached to your aircraft
while flying. So use that as food for thought.
A couple of interesting tricks that I've learned in using Pro-Seal. Fuel
tank people may be able to use these tricks too. I'm amused, but sympathize
with people on trying to get the Pro-Seal to go where you want and don't want.
All of the tricks I've seen by Van's are good. We use masking tape to keep it
off of what we don't want and also to make nice straight lines using
pro-seal. If you allow the Pro-Seal to cure for a few minutes and get a little
firm,
you can pull the tape up and it will leave a nice straight line without
pulling up the Pro-Seal and the edge will still lay back down. This is very
similar to the technique used in painting for lines. This works well in
conjunction with the technique mentioned below.
Another good trick is to use shampoo or soap on your finger to shape or
fillet the Pro-Seal without getting it stuck all over you. You'll have to re coat
your finger every now and then, but you'll be amazed how smooth you can get
it. This is for smoothing and blending the top out only AFTER you have put
it where you want. It would adversely affect the sealing if you got it between
the Pro-Seal and sealing surface. I haven't seen any other adverse effect
from using the shampoo. It may take slightly longer to cure out, but it will
cure out fully. Obviously, if your using this method with your tanks or your
going to paint over this, you would need to remove the soap residue by flushing
or wiping it off with solvent or cleaner after it cures. In reality, there
will be hardly any noticeable residue. I recommend trying all this out on
pieces of scrap before tackling the real deal.
The warnings of having a warm canopy during fitting cannot be emphasized
enough. Another experience I'll throw out, is to be sure when your cutting and
fitting, to try and do it in one work session or be sure to properly support
and clamp the Plexiglas if you have to leave it. We had cut and shaped a
windshield to fit late one afternoon and then left it overnight sitting
unsupported on a bench ready to install in the morning. Well, in the morning, it
fit
totally different and we almost didn't get it to fit. Overnight, it had
started to flatten out. We would have been a lot better off if we had left it in
the window frame. An interesting lesson learned for sure. I hope this helps some
of you in forming your own decisions and I apologize for being long winded.
Good Luck!
Greg Morgan A&P
Oak Ridge, TN
RV-8A
Pacing back and forth waiting for my wing kit
work:
4- OH-58A+ Kiowa's
1- OH-58C Kiowa
1- UH-1H Huey ( oh, yeah, it thumps!)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Subject: | Leveling fuselage to drill RV-8 gear |
Listers,
I have my RV-8 QB fuselage upside down on a sawhorse so I can drill the
landing gear on my RV-8. The manual says to level the F-822 floor fore and
aft and laterally. This is pretty awkward since the floor is now the ceiling
inside the cockpit, so to speak. I wonder why I can't level the bottom of
the aircraft instead, that is level laterally between the gear mounts and
fore and aft along the belly skin between the firewall and gear mounting
points. Any information from experienced gear installers is welcome!
Stephen Soule
Swanton, Vermont
RV-6A flying, RV-8 under construction
Leveling fuselage to drill RV-8 gear
Listers,
I have my RV-8 QB fuselage upside down on a sawhorse so I can drill the landing
gear on my RV-8. The manual says to level the F-822 floor fore and aft and laterally.
This is pretty awkward since the floor is now the ceiling inside the
cockpit, so to speak. I wonder why I can't level the bottom of the aircraft instead,
that is level laterally between the gear mounts and fore and aft along
the belly skin between the firewall and gear mounting points. Any information
from experienced gear installers is welcome!
Stephen Soule
Swanton, Vermont
RV-6A flying, RV-8 under construction
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | RE: RV8-List Digest: 5 Msgs - 01/31/05 |
From: | "MAYNARD, LARRY D" <LMAYNARD(at)NCUA.GOV> |
I would not use any sort of adhesive on the skirt. Reactions with the
canopy could be disastrous. Plus, the canopy and the skirt will flex --
stretch and shorten with the weather and this could also lead to cracks
in either one. This may not happen until the weather changes or you fly
it for awhile. Stick with the tried and true -- rivets or screws.
LDM Atlanta, Ga.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV8-List
Digest Server
Subject: RV8-List Digest: 5 Msgs - 01/31/05
*
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in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
of the RV8-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
such as Notepad or with a web browser.
HTML Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv8-list/Digest.RV8-List.2005-01-31.html
Text Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv8-list/Digest.RV8-List.2005-01-31.txt
================================================
EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
================================================
RV8-List Digest Archive
---
Total Messages Posted Mon 01/31/05: 5
Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:28 AM - Re: Canopy skirt (CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com)
2. 06:27 AM - Re: RV-8 Landing gear question (Steve Struyk)
3. 07:20 AM - Real Time Weather... (Bill VonDane)
4. 07:42 PM - Re: RV8-List Digest: 7 Msgs - 01/30/05 (Sally and
George)
5. 09:17 PM - Re: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 01/29/05
(Speedy11(at)aol.com)
________________________________ Message 1
_____________________________________
From: CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Canopy skirt
In a message dated 1/30/05 9:04:13 AM Eastern Standard Time,
ulf(at)megadoor.com
writes:
> I am getting ready to attach the canopy skirt and wonder what, if any,
> adhesive or sealant to use between the skirt and the canopy.
>
> Any suggestions or experience appreciated.
>
A friend here just used 3m-5200. I am watching and learning........
waiting for them to test :)
Years ago I worked at a boat dealership and was amazed
when the bolts were removed from an outboard and the motor remained on
the transom. (V-6 mercury) and it was not just once this took place.
3m-5200 was used
RV-4
RV-8 QB ....canoe
Sal Capra
Lakeland, FL
My Home Page
________________________________ Message 2
_____________________________________
From: "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV8-List: RV-8 Landing gear question
Just a thought, but are you sure you have the left gear on the left side
of
the airplane? With the thing upside down and all when you drilled and
installed the legs, it could happen. Just my two cents worth.
Steve Struyk
N842S (Res.)
RV-8, Finish
----- Original Message -----
From: "Donald Erickson" <dle(at)joplin.com>
Subject: Re: RV8-List: RV-8 Landing gear question
>
> Hi Walt. I drilled and bolted my RV8 _grove light weight gear this
> weekend.
> Had no problem. ( that I know of.) I was able to keep the 3/16"
clearence.
> It seems centered in the Opening. I am sure some final shim may be
> required.
> You don't suppose your gear may be bent or improperly formed. Don
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "rveighta" <rveighta(at)earthlink.net>
> To:
> Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 Landing gear question
>
>
>>
>> I'm in the process of installing the main gear legs on my RV-8 and
>> have
> run into some problems: When I attach the plumb bob lines per the
> manual
> to
> the leading edges of the gear legs, I am able to get the four lines in
> alignment only by canting the gear legs so far forward that (1) the
> forward
> bolt hole in each of the U803 outboard attach brackets is partially
> underneath the F 851PP skin, and (2) in this position, I can't
maintain
> the
> 3/16" dimension between the edge of the fuselage and the F 803 from
front
> to
> rear (If I get 3/16" at the rear, I get 1/4" at the front).
>>
>> When I first started this little project, I thought the gear legs
>> would
>> be
> pretty much centered in the opening where the cover plate goes. Reckon
> I should know by now that things that look simple usually aren't...
> Maybe you just put 'em in the center and shim the wheels for proper
> toe-in.
>>
>> Any way, has anyone else encountered this problem and what did you
>> end up
> doing?
>>
>> Walt Shipley RV-8A Flying, RV-8 Fuselage
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________ Message 3
_____________________________________
From: Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com>
Subject: RV8-List: Real Time Weather...
vansairforce
Anyone have real time weather in the cockpit yet? How does it work?
-Bill
________________________________ Message 4
_____________________________________
From: "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV8-List: RE: RV8-List Digest: 7 Msgs - 01/30/05
-->
Ulf:
You'll probably get different answers to this, but I feel strongly that
you
should use NO adhesive between the canopy and the skirt. The pop rivets
will hold it in place quite securely and adhesives have an unpredictable
propensity to react witht he plastic canopy, causing cracks, crazing and
other kinds of mischief.
George Kilsihek
N888GK flying
RV-8 kit # 80221 fuselage
>From: "Ulf Petersson" <ulf(at)megadoor.com>
>Subject: RV8-List: Canopy skirt
>
>
>I am getting ready to attach the canopy skirt and wonder what, if any,
>adhesive or sealant to use between the skirt and the canopy.
>
>Any suggestions or experience appreciated.
>
>Thanks
>
>Ulf Petersson
>Peachtree City GA
>RV8 A QB
>
>
________________________________ Message 5
_____________________________________
From: Speedy11(at)aol.com
Subject: RV8-List: Re: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 01/29/05
Michle,
I've already ordered my fairing. The products I've seen in the past
from
Bob Snedaker were excellent quality. His designs add flair to the
airframe.
I
like his designs. I will likely order gear leg and wheel pant fairings
also. Stan Sutterfield www.rv-8a.net
In a message dated 1/30/2005 2:58:59 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
rv8-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
Listers - I am most interested in saving time at some expense by
getting ready made fairings for my RV8. Could some of you guys comment
positive or negative on your experience with www.fairings-etc.com.
Thanks,
Michle Delsol
RV8 - Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RE: RV8-List Digest: 5 Msgs - 01/31/05 |
The company that makes Pro-Seal also has a blend made specifically for
plastic windows.
>
>I would not use any sort of adhesive on the skirt. Reactions with the
>canopy could be disastrous. Plus, the canopy and the skirt will flex --
>stretch and shorten with the weather and this could also lead to cracks
>in either one. This may not happen until the weather changes or you fly
>it for awhile. Stick with the tried and true -- rivets or screws.
>
>LDM Atlanta, Ga.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV8-List
>Digest Server
>To: RV8-List Digest List
>Subject: RV8-List Digest: 5 Msgs - 01/31/05
>
>
>*
>
> ==================================================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
>==================================================
>
>Today's complete RV8-List Digest can also be found in either of the
>two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest
>formatted
>in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
>and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
>of the RV8-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
>such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
>HTML Version:
>
>
>http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv8-list/Digest.RV8-List.2005-01-31.html
>
>Text Version:
>
>
>http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv8-list/Digest.RV8-List.2005-01-31.txt
>
>
> ================================================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
>================================================
>
>
> RV8-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Mon 01/31/05: 5
>
>
>Today's Message Index:
>----------------------
>
> 1. 04:28 AM - Re: Canopy skirt (CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com)
> 2. 06:27 AM - Re: RV-8 Landing gear question (Steve Struyk)
> 3. 07:20 AM - Real Time Weather... (Bill VonDane)
> 4. 07:42 PM - Re: RV8-List Digest: 7 Msgs - 01/30/05 (Sally and
>George)
> 5. 09:17 PM - Re: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 01/29/05
>(Speedy11(at)aol.com)
>
>
>________________________________ Message 1
>_____________________________________
>
>
>From: CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com
>Subject: Re: RV8-List: Canopy skirt
>
>
>In a message dated 1/30/05 9:04:13 AM Eastern Standard Time,
>ulf(at)megadoor.com
>writes:
>
>
> > I am getting ready to attach the canopy skirt and wonder what, if any,
>
> > adhesive or sealant to use between the skirt and the canopy.
> >
> > Any suggestions or experience appreciated.
> >
>
>A friend here just used 3m-5200. I am watching and learning........
>waiting for them to test :)
>
>Years ago I worked at a boat dealership and was amazed
>when the bolts were removed from an outboard and the motor remained on
>the transom. (V-6 mercury) and it was not just once this took place.
>3m-5200 was used
>
>
>RV-4
>RV-8 QB ....canoe
>
>Sal Capra
>Lakeland, FL
> My Home Page
>
>
>________________________________ Message 2
>_____________________________________
>
>
>From: "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker(at)hotmail.com>
>Subject: Re: RV8-List: RV-8 Landing gear question
>
>
>Just a thought, but are you sure you have the left gear on the left side
>of
>the airplane? With the thing upside down and all when you drilled and
>installed the legs, it could happen. Just my two cents worth.
>
>Steve Struyk
>N842S (Res.)
>RV-8, Finish
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Donald Erickson" <dle(at)joplin.com>
>Subject: Re: RV8-List: RV-8 Landing gear question
>
>
> >
> > Hi Walt. I drilled and bolted my RV8 _grove light weight gear this
> > weekend.
> > Had no problem. ( that I know of.) I was able to keep the 3/16"
>clearence.
> > It seems centered in the Opening. I am sure some final shim may be
> > required.
> > You don't suppose your gear may be bent or improperly formed. Don
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "rveighta" <rveighta(at)earthlink.net>
> > To:
> > Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 Landing gear question
> >
> >
> >>
> >> I'm in the process of installing the main gear legs on my RV-8 and
> >> have
> > run into some problems: When I attach the plumb bob lines per the
> > manual
> > to
> > the leading edges of the gear legs, I am able to get the four lines in
> > alignment only by canting the gear legs so far forward that (1) the
> > forward
> > bolt hole in each of the U803 outboard attach brackets is partially
> > underneath the F 851PP skin, and (2) in this position, I can't
>maintain
> > the
> > 3/16" dimension between the edge of the fuselage and the F 803 from
>front
> > to
> > rear (If I get 3/16" at the rear, I get 1/4" at the front).
> >>
> >> When I first started this little project, I thought the gear legs
> >> would
> >> be
> > pretty much centered in the opening where the cover plate goes. Reckon
>
> > I should know by now that things that look simple usually aren't...
> > Maybe you just put 'em in the center and shim the wheels for proper
> > toe-in.
> >>
> >> Any way, has anyone else encountered this problem and what did you
> >> end up
> > doing?
> >>
> >> Walt Shipley RV-8A Flying, RV-8 Fuselage
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>________________________________ Message 3
>_____________________________________
>
>
>From: Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com>
>Subject: RV8-List: Real Time Weather...
> vansairforce
>
>
>Anyone have real time weather in the cockpit yet? How does it work?
>
>-Bill
>
>
>________________________________ Message 4
>_____________________________________
>
>
>From: "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com>
>Subject: RV8-List: RE: RV8-List Digest: 7 Msgs - 01/30/05
>
>-->
>
>Ulf:
>
>You'll probably get different answers to this, but I feel strongly that
>you
>should use NO adhesive between the canopy and the skirt. The pop rivets
>
>will hold it in place quite securely and adhesives have an unpredictable
>
>propensity to react witht he plastic canopy, causing cracks, crazing and
>
>other kinds of mischief.
>
>George Kilsihek
>N888GK flying
>RV-8 kit # 80221 fuselage
>
> >From: "Ulf Petersson" <ulf(at)megadoor.com>
> >Subject: RV8-List: Canopy skirt
> >
> >
> >I am getting ready to attach the canopy skirt and wonder what, if any,
> >adhesive or sealant to use between the skirt and the canopy.
> >
> >Any suggestions or experience appreciated.
> >
> >Thanks
> >
> >Ulf Petersson
> >Peachtree City GA
> >RV8 A QB
> >
> >
>
>
>________________________________ Message 5
>_____________________________________
>
>
>From: Speedy11(at)aol.com
>Subject: RV8-List: Re: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 01/29/05
>
>
>Michle,
>I've already ordered my fairing. The products I've seen in the past
>from
>Bob Snedaker were excellent quality. His designs add flair to the
>airframe.
>I
>like his designs. I will likely order gear leg and wheel pant fairings
>also. Stan Sutterfield www.rv-8a.net
>
>In a message dated 1/30/2005 2:58:59 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
>rv8-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
>
>Listers - I am most interested in saving time at some expense by
>getting ready made fairings for my RV8. Could some of you guys comment
>positive or negative on your experience with www.fairings-etc.com.
>
>Thanks,
>Michle Delsol
>RV8 - Wings
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RE: RV8-List Digest: 5 Msgs - 01/31/05 |
I installed my canopy skirt exclusively with screws machined to 120 degree
heads. The screws were torqued by hand with a driver that had a 3/8 handle
diameter, so they are just snug. I also applied UHMW tape to the frame
which will make canopy squirming easier. I then drilled the holes in the
canopy about .040 larger than the screw to again allow for movement. The
top of the skirt were it mates against the canopy was sealed with a
silicone that is safe on Plexiglass. After 260 hrs everything looks and
fits like new.
>
>I would not use any sort of adhesive on the skirt. Reactions with the
>canopy could be disastrous. Plus, the canopy and the skirt will flex --
>stretch and shorten with the weather and this could also lead to cracks
>in either one. This may not happen until the weather changes or you fly
>it for awhile. Stick with the tried and true -- rivets or screws.
>
>LDM Atlanta, Ga.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV8-List
>Digest Server
>To: RV8-List Digest List
>Subject: RV8-List Digest: 5 Msgs - 01/31/05
>
>
>*
>
> ==================================================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
>==================================================
>
>Today's complete RV8-List Digest can also be found in either of the
>two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest
>formatted
>in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
>and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
>of the RV8-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
>such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
>HTML Version:
>
>
>http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv8-list/Digest.RV8-List.2005-01-31.html
>
>Text Version:
>
>
>http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv8-list/Digest.RV8-List.2005-01-31.txt
>
>
> ================================================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
>================================================
>
>
> RV8-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Mon 01/31/05: 5
>
>
>Today's Message Index:
>----------------------
>
> 1. 04:28 AM - Re: Canopy skirt (CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com)
> 2. 06:27 AM - Re: RV-8 Landing gear question (Steve Struyk)
> 3. 07:20 AM - Real Time Weather... (Bill VonDane)
> 4. 07:42 PM - Re: RV8-List Digest: 7 Msgs - 01/30/05 (Sally and
>George)
> 5. 09:17 PM - Re: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 01/29/05
>(Speedy11(at)aol.com)
>
>
>________________________________ Message 1
>_____________________________________
>
>
>From: CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com
>Subject: Re: RV8-List: Canopy skirt
>
>
>In a message dated 1/30/05 9:04:13 AM Eastern Standard Time,
>ulf(at)megadoor.com
>writes:
>
>
> > I am getting ready to attach the canopy skirt and wonder what, if any,
>
> > adhesive or sealant to use between the skirt and the canopy.
> >
> > Any suggestions or experience appreciated.
> >
>
>A friend here just used 3m-5200. I am watching and learning........
>waiting for them to test :)
>
>Years ago I worked at a boat dealership and was amazed
>when the bolts were removed from an outboard and the motor remained on
>the transom. (V-6 mercury) and it was not just once this took place.
>3m-5200 was used
>
>
>RV-4
>RV-8 QB ....canoe
>
>Sal Capra
>Lakeland, FL
> My Home Page
>
>
>________________________________ Message 2
>_____________________________________
>
>
>From: "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker(at)hotmail.com>
>Subject: Re: RV8-List: RV-8 Landing gear question
>
>
>Just a thought, but are you sure you have the left gear on the left side
>of
>the airplane? With the thing upside down and all when you drilled and
>installed the legs, it could happen. Just my two cents worth.
>
>Steve Struyk
>N842S (Res.)
>RV-8, Finish
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Donald Erickson" <dle(at)joplin.com>
>Subject: Re: RV8-List: RV-8 Landing gear question
>
>
> >
> > Hi Walt. I drilled and bolted my RV8 _grove light weight gear this
> > weekend.
> > Had no problem. ( that I know of.) I was able to keep the 3/16"
>clearence.
> > It seems centered in the Opening. I am sure some final shim may be
> > required.
> > You don't suppose your gear may be bent or improperly formed. Don
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "rveighta" <rveighta(at)earthlink.net>
> > To:
> > Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 Landing gear question
> >
> >
> >>
> >> I'm in the process of installing the main gear legs on my RV-8 and
> >> have
> > run into some problems: When I attach the plumb bob lines per the
> > manual
> > to
> > the leading edges of the gear legs, I am able to get the four lines in
> > alignment only by canting the gear legs so far forward that (1) the
> > forward
> > bolt hole in each of the U803 outboard attach brackets is partially
> > underneath the F 851PP skin, and (2) in this position, I can't
>maintain
> > the
> > 3/16" dimension between the edge of the fuselage and the F 803 from
>front
> > to
> > rear (If I get 3/16" at the rear, I get 1/4" at the front).
> >>
> >> When I first started this little project, I thought the gear legs
> >> would
> >> be
> > pretty much centered in the opening where the cover plate goes. Reckon
>
> > I should know by now that things that look simple usually aren't...
> > Maybe you just put 'em in the center and shim the wheels for proper
> > toe-in.
> >>
> >> Any way, has anyone else encountered this problem and what did you
> >> end up
> > doing?
> >>
> >> Walt Shipley RV-8A Flying, RV-8 Fuselage
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>________________________________ Message 3
>_____________________________________
>
>
>From: Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com>
>Subject: RV8-List: Real Time Weather...
> vansairforce
>
>
>Anyone have real time weather in the cockpit yet? How does it work?
>
>-Bill
>
>
>________________________________ Message 4
>_____________________________________
>
>
>From: "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com>
>Subject: RV8-List: RE: RV8-List Digest: 7 Msgs - 01/30/05
>
>-->
>
>Ulf:
>
>You'll probably get different answers to this, but I feel strongly that
>you
>should use NO adhesive between the canopy and the skirt. The pop rivets
>
>will hold it in place quite securely and adhesives have an unpredictable
>
>propensity to react witht he plastic canopy, causing cracks, crazing and
>
>other kinds of mischief.
>
>George Kilsihek
>N888GK flying
>RV-8 kit # 80221 fuselage
>
> >From: "Ulf Petersson" <ulf(at)megadoor.com>
> >Subject: RV8-List: Canopy skirt
> >
> >
> >I am getting ready to attach the canopy skirt and wonder what, if any,
> >adhesive or sealant to use between the skirt and the canopy.
> >
> >Any suggestions or experience appreciated.
> >
> >Thanks
> >
> >Ulf Petersson
> >Peachtree City GA
> >RV8 A QB
> >
> >
>
>
>________________________________ Message 5
>_____________________________________
>
>
>From: Speedy11(at)aol.com
>Subject: RV8-List: Re: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 01/29/05
>
>
>Michle,
>I've already ordered my fairing. The products I've seen in the past
>from
>Bob Snedaker were excellent quality. His designs add flair to the
>airframe.
>I
>like his designs. I will likely order gear leg and wheel pant fairings
>also. Stan Sutterfield www.rv-8a.net
>
>In a message dated 1/30/2005 2:58:59 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
>rv8-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
>
>Listers - I am most interested in saving time at some expense by
>getting ready made fairings for my RV8. Could some of you guys comment
>positive or negative on your experience with www.fairings-etc.com.
>
>Thanks,
>Michle Delsol
>RV8 - Wings
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jacob & Grace" <grizzlybear(at)klondiker.com> |
Subject: | RV-8 Tail wheel alternatives |
Has anybody used or know about a larger or beefier tailwheel assembly for the RV-8?
I will be committing the unpardonable sin of using gravel strips most of the time,
some maintained only by gophers? I already have 6" wheels on the mains.
I also wouldn't mind a bit more weight further back?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Marc Ausman" <marc(at)ausman.com> |
Subject: | Value of built empennage kit |
I have a friend who has finished building the empennage kit for a -8 and now
must stop the project. He has offered to sell it to me, but I have no idea
of the value. On one hand, it could be worth close to what he paid in parts
and the fact it's completed is a nicety. On the other hand, there may not be
much of a market for a kit partially through completion. I don't know.
Anyone have thoughts or comparables? Many thanks, Marc
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
Subject: | Re: Value of built empennage kit |
Hi Marc,
If you need the experience, and he has already built the tail,
then it might have negative value to you. If you don't need
the experience, and he did a good job, then I'd say it's about
neutral. It's pretty rare to see much of a premium for our
labor on these kits, until the plane is ready for taxi testing.
Of course, just about every buy/sell pairing is unique, so YMMV.
Mickey
Marc Ausman wrote:
>
> I have a friend who has finished building the empennage kit for a -8 and now
> must stop the project. He has offered to sell it to me, but I have no idea
> of the value. On one hand, it could be worth close to what he paid in parts
> and the fact it's completed is a nicety. On the other hand, there may not be
> much of a market for a kit partially through completion. I don't know.
> Anyone have thoughts or comparables? Many thanks, Marc
>
>
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | -8 Front stick length? |
-8, 8A Drivers,
Any consensus out there on front stick length (overall height w/control grip
installed) Are any cutting stick to the extent grip will clear forward
under a standard panel? All comments welcome.
Jack
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
Subject: | Re: -8 Front stick length? |
Hi Jack,
I had to cut mine. I cut it to the max overall length that Van's
recommended, minus about 1/4". It just passes under the panel
with about 1/4" clearance. I'm using a Ray Allen G307 grip.
Mickey
Jack Blomgren wrote:
>
> -8, 8A Drivers,
>
> Any consensus out there on front stick length (overall height w/control grip
> installed) Are any cutting stick to the extent grip will clear forward
> under a standard panel? All comments welcome.
>
> Jack
>
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jacob & Grace" <grizzlybear(at)klondiker.com> |
Subject: | Flightcom Intercoms |
I just spent two days trouble shooting the comm wiring in my 8 because when I toggled
the Flightcom 403 to ISO it locked everything onto XMIT. Other than that
it wouldn't transmit when keyed.
Tried the ICOM A 200 in another aircraft, worked fine. So this weekend I ripped
each wire out, tested continuity, replaced, but no change. Finally today
I rigged the Intercom up outside the airplane....same thing. ICOM A200 works
fine using airplane wiring but without intercom.
Darned thing is broken inside....I figured that couldn't be...it was new out of
box...I should have been more open minded in retrospect.
So.....any recommendations for Intercoms with 1 comm unit and mono-music input?
Flightcom lost it's appeal.
Jacob
81938
(going for paint)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
Subject: | Flightcom Intercoms |
Ummmm.....
Did you buy a pre-wired harness from somewhere or did you wire it yourself?
Don't throw it out until you're sure you've wired it correctly. Yes, it
could be broke, but after wiring up literally dozens of Intercoms and
troubleshooting many more for people, it's been my experience that the more
likely problem is the wiring and not the Intercom.
There could be other issues as well, but I'd urge you to make sure the box
is in fact broke before you buy another. I had one customer who bought 3
different brands of Intercoms, swore all three were broke "out of the box",
and come to find out it was all "pilot error". Not that this is the case
with your installation, but it's also a possibility, as well as the
possibility that the box itself could be broke like you said.
Last but not least, don't get all worked up if it is broke. Flightcomm
makes a great intercom, they are a great company and usually stand behind
their products. Like anything aviation/avionics related there is the chance
it could have a malufnction and it's wise to give any company at least one
chance to make this right before firing both barrels.
Just my 2 cents as usual.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jacob & Grace
Subject: RV8-List: Flightcom Intercoms
I just spent two days trouble shooting the comm wiring in my 8 because when
I toggled the Flightcom 403 to ISO it locked everything onto XMIT. Other
than that it wouldn't transmit when keyed.
Tried the ICOM A 200 in another aircraft, worked fine. So this weekend I
ripped each wire out, tested continuity, replaced, but no change. Finally
today I rigged the Intercom up outside the airplane....same thing. ICOM
A200 works fine using airplane wiring but without intercom.
Darned thing is broken inside....I figured that couldn't be...it was new out
of box...I should have been more open minded in retrospect.
So.....any recommendations for Intercoms with 1 comm unit and mono-music
input? Flightcom lost it's appeal.
Jacob
81938
(going for paint)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jacob & Grace" <grizzlybear(at)klondiker.com> |
Subject: | Re: Flightcom Intercoms |
My mistake sorry!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: RE: RV8-List: Flightcom Intercoms
>
> Ummmm.....
>
> Did you buy a pre-wired harness from somewhere or did you wire it
> yourself?
>
> Don't throw it out until you're sure you've wired it correctly. Yes, it
> could be broke, but after wiring up literally dozens of Intercoms and
> troubleshooting many more for people, it's been my experience that the
> more
> likely problem is the wiring and not the Intercom.
>
> There could be other issues as well, but I'd urge you to make sure the box
> is in fact broke before you buy another. I had one customer who bought 3
> different brands of Intercoms, swore all three were broke "out of the
> box",
> and come to find out it was all "pilot error". Not that this is the case
> with your installation, but it's also a possibility, as well as the
> possibility that the box itself could be broke like you said.
>
> Last but not least, don't get all worked up if it is broke. Flightcomm
> makes a great intercom, they are a great company and usually stand behind
> their products. Like anything aviation/avionics related there is the
> chance
> it could have a malufnction and it's wise to give any company at least one
> chance to make this right before firing both barrels.
>
> Just my 2 cents as usual.
>
> Cheers,
> Stein Bruch
> RV6's, Minneapolis.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jacob & Grace
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV8-List: Flightcom Intercoms
>
>
>
>
> I just spent two days trouble shooting the comm wiring in my 8 because
> when
> I toggled the Flightcom 403 to ISO it locked everything onto XMIT. Other
> than that it wouldn't transmit when keyed.
>
> Tried the ICOM A 200 in another aircraft, worked fine. So this weekend I
> ripped each wire out, tested continuity, replaced, but no change. Finally
> today I rigged the Intercom up outside the airplane....same thing. ICOM
> A200 works fine using airplane wiring but without intercom.
>
> Darned thing is broken inside....I figured that couldn't be...it was new
> out
> of box...I should have been more open minded in retrospect.
>
> So.....any recommendations for Intercoms with 1 comm unit and mono-music
> input? Flightcom lost it's appeal.
>
> Jacob
> 81938
> (going for paint)
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Engine Balancing |
Hi all,
While I am only about three years ahead of myself here, I have read somewhere
about fine-tuning the balance of an engine/prop in order to reduce vibration.
It seems to me that I have read that a factory new lycoming, while a very
safe and reliable engine, is not balanced to very fine specs and that one could
either take a new engine and have it taken down and very carefully balanced or
might actually be better off with a runout engine and having it rebuilt to
tighter specs. Any thoughts or experience on this?
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV-8, middle of the empennage
San Ramon, California
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dale Mitchell <dfm4290(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Flightcom Intercoms |
I have the same setup in my 8A I have not flown yet
but it works fine on the ground.
After wiring it I'm amazed it worked at all.
Dale Mitchell
RV-8A MN wing
--- Jacob & Grace wrote:
>
>
> I just spent two days trouble shooting the comm
> wiring in my 8 because when I toggled the Flightcom
> 403 to ISO it locked everything onto XMIT. Other
> than that it wouldn't transmit when keyed.
>
> Tried the ICOM A 200 in another aircraft, worked
> fine. So this weekend I ripped each wire out,
> tested continuity, replaced, but no change. Finally
> today I rigged the Intercom up outside the
> airplane....same thing. ICOM A200 works fine using
> airplane wiring but without intercom.
>
> Darned thing is broken inside....I figured that
> couldn't be...it was new out of box...I should have
> been more open minded in retrospect.
>
> So.....any recommendations for Intercoms with 1 comm
> unit and mono-music input? Flightcom lost it's
> appeal.
>
> Jacob
> 81938
> (going for paint)
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV8-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://info.mail.yahoo.com/mail_250
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Flightcom intercoms |
Jacob:
Before you chuck the intercom, check your wiring on the connector. The kind
of problem you report is not uncommon with an incorrectly wired connector
or one with a solder bridge. Solder bridges are very easy to get when
wiring those devilish little pins.
My experience with Flitecom intercom in my RV-8 was a very happy one.
George
N888GK airborne and gone
2d RV-8 fuselage in canoe stage
>From: "Jacob & Grace" <grizzlybear(at)klondiker.com>
>Subject: RV8-List: Flightcom Intercoms
>
>
>I just spent two days trouble shooting the comm wiring in my 8 because when
>I toggled
>the Flightcom 403 to ISO it locked everything onto XMIT. Other than that
>it wouldn't transmit when keyed.
>
> Tried the ICOM A 200 in another aircraft, worked fine. So this weekend
>I ripped
>each wire out, tested continuity, replaced, but no change. Finally today
>I rigged the Intercom up outside the airplane....same thing. ICOM A200
>works
>fine using airplane wiring but without intercom.
>
>Darned thing is broken inside....I figured that couldn't be...it was new
>out of
>box...I should have been more open minded in retrospect.
>
>So.....any recommendations for Intercoms with 1 comm unit and mono-music
>input?
>Flightcom lost it's appeal.
>
>Jacob
>81938
>(going for paint)
>
>
>___
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | vhimsl <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> |
Subject: | Re: -8 Front stick length? |
I would suggest you hold off until you decide whether or not going you are going
to create an 'S' bend. This will come after you
have installed your seat frame and mock upholstery (crudely cut pieces of pink
foam).
I cut mine at panel height and now realize that I want the 'S' bend. Don't know
if it will be too short, hence my recommendation to wait.
Vince Himsl
RV8 - VSB Finish
-----Original message-----
From: "Jack Blomgren" jackanet(at)hotmail.com
Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2005 11:34:09 -0800
Subject: RV8-List: -8 Front stick length?
>
> -8, 8A Drivers,
>
> Any consensus out there on front stick length (overall height w/control grip
> installed) Are any cutting stick to the extent grip will clear forward
> under a standard panel? All comments welcome.
>
> Jack
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
Subject: | -8 Front stick length? |
Another reason not to cut the front stick: When I was going to send my
stick to Todd Rudberg to get bent, he needed the full length as it comes
from Van's. In the process of bending, they needed the extra length that
would be cut off after it had the S bend in it. I ordered a new one, which
almost for sure means there is a straight one in the excess parts pile in my
shop that is cut to clear the panel.
Terry
8A #80729 finishing
Seattle
I would suggest you hold off until you decide whether or not going you are
going to create an 'S' bend. This will come after you
have installed your seat frame and mock upholstery (crudely cut pieces of
pink foam).
I cut mine at panel height and now realize that I want the 'S' bend. Don't
know if it will be too short, hence my recommendation to wait.
Vince Himsl
RV8 - VSB Finish
-----Original message-----
From: "Jack Blomgren" jackanet(at)hotmail.com
Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2005 11:34:09 -0800
Subject: RV8-List: -8 Front stick length?
>
> -8, 8A Drivers,
>
> Any consensus out there on front stick length (overall height w/control
grip
> installed) Are any cutting stick to the extent grip will clear forward
> under a standard panel? All comments welcome.
>
> Jack
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com |
I just fitted my ailerons on the wings and find that they are not balanced,
i.e. they tend to drop when held horizontally. Any thoughts on this issue?
Should ailerons be perfectly balanced as elevators should?
Michle
RV8 - wings - France
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Michle,
I understand from previous postings on the RV list (including some by folks
at Van's Aircraft) that Van designed the ailerons only to be partially
balanced by that iron water pipe in the nose. In other words, the ailerons
are not designed to be perfectly balanced.
Stephen Soule
Swanton, Vermont
RV-6A N227RV flying
RV-8 N222SZ under construction
-----Original Message-----
I just fitted my ailerons on the wings and find that they are not balanced,
i.e. they tend to drop when held horizontally. Any thoughts on this issue?
Should ailerons be perfectly balanced as elevators should?
Michle
RV8 - wings - France
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com |
Thanks Stephen - figure that if I had to balance, would require a fair
amount of weight since the arm is pretty small, and Vans would have designed
it differently so that weight could be added or removed.
Michle
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stephen J. Soule
> Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2005 1:13 PM
> To: 'rv8-list(at)matronics.com'
> Subject: RE: RV8-List: Aileron balance
>
>
> Michle,
>
> I understand from previous postings on the RV list (including some by
> folks
> at Van's Aircraft) that Van designed the ailerons only to be partially
> balanced by that iron water pipe in the nose. In other words, the ailerons
> are not designed to be perfectly balanced.
>
> Stephen Soule
> Swanton, Vermont
> RV-6A N227RV flying
> RV-8 N222SZ under construction
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> I just fitted my ailerons on the wings and find that they are not
> balanced,
> i.e. they tend to drop when held horizontally. Any thoughts on this issue?
> Should ailerons be perfectly balanced as elevators should?
>
> Michle
> RV8 - wings - France
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Subject: | Quick build RV-8 gear leg drilling question |
I have the RV-8 quick build fuselage. I have (finally) squared the gear legs
and drilled them to the gear leg boxes. The outer wear bars (can't recall
the part number) on each side have two 1/4 inch bolt holes that have to be
drilled. Since the bottom skin is already riveted in place, the only way to
get at them is through the cockpit side. How did you quick build builders
drill these holes? Van's construction manual says to measure for the holes,
but does not provide any information about how this is to be done. Practical
advice is greatly needed.
Stephen Soule
Swanton, Vermont
Quick build RV-8 gear leg drilling question
I have the RV-8 quick build fuselage. I have (finally) squared the gear legs and
drilled them to the gear leg boxes. The outer wear bars (can't recall the part
number) on each side have two 1/4 inch bolt holes that have to be drilled.
Since the bottom skin is already riveted in place, the only way to get at them
is through the cockpit side. How did you quick build builders drill these holes?
Van's construction manual says to measure for the holes, but does not provide
any information about how this is to be done. Practical advice is greatly
needed.
Stephen Soule
Swanton, Vermont
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | rveighta <rveighta(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Quick build RV-8 gear leg drilling question |
Stephen, what you're "measuring" for is the spot to drill a hole through the BOTTOM
skin for the 1/4" bolts on each side of the wear plates. Make the hole big
enough for a 1/4" socket to fit through. The holes won't show once the top
intersection fairings are in place.
Walt Shipley RV8A flyin' RV8 QB finish kit
-----Original Message-----
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: RV8-List: Quick build RV-8 gear leg drilling question
I have the RV-8 quick build fuselage. I have (finally) squared the gear legs
and drilled them to the gear leg boxes. The outer wear bars (can't recall
the part number) on each side have two 1/4 inch bolt holes that have to be
drilled. Since the bottom skin is already riveted in place, the only way to
get at them is through the cockpit side. How did you quick build builders
drill these holes? Van's construction manual says to measure for the holes,
but does not provide any information about how this is to be done. Practical
advice is greatly needed.
Stephen Soule
Swanton, Vermont
Quick build RV-8 gear leg drilling question
I have the RV-8 quick build fuselage. I have (finally) squared the gear legs and
drilled them to the gear leg boxes. The outer wear bars (can't recall the part
number) on each side have two 1/4 inch bolt holes that have to be drilled.
Since the bottom skin is already riveted in place, the only way to get at them
is through the cockpit side. How did you quick build builders drill these holes?
Van's construction manual says to measure for the holes, but does not provide
any information about how this is to be done. Practical advice is greatly
needed.
Stephen Soule
Swanton, Vermont
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Schilling Karl <Karl.Schilling(at)ssfhs.org> |
Subject: | Quick build RV-8 gear leg drilling question |
You need to make holes in the skin on the outside. You're gear leg farings
will cover them when you are finished.
-----Original Message-----
From: Stephen J. Soule [mailto:SSoule(at)pfclaw.com]
Subject: RV8-List: Quick build RV-8 gear leg drilling question
I have the RV-8 quick build fuselage. I have (finally) squared the gear legs
and drilled them to the gear leg boxes. The outer wear bars (can't recall
the part number) on each side have two 1/4 inch bolt holes that have to be
drilled. Since the bottom skin is already riveted in place, the only way to
get at them is through the cockpit side. How did you quick build builders
drill these holes? Van's construction manual says to measure for the holes,
but does not provide any information about how this is to be done. Practical
advice is greatly needed.
Stephen Soule
Swanton, Vermont
Quick build RV-8 gear leg drilling question
I have the RV-8 quick build fuselage. I have (finally) squared the gear legs
and drilled them to the gear leg boxes. The outer wear bars (can't recall
the part number) on each side have two 1/4 inch bolt holes that have to be
drilled. Since the bottom skin is already riveted in place, the only way to
get at them is through the cockpit side. How did you quick build builders
drill these holes? Van's construction manual says to measure for the holes,
but does not provide any information about how this is to be done. Practical
advice is greatly needed.
Stephen Soule
Swanton, Vermont
__________________________________
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Subject: | Quick build RV-8 gear leg drilling question |
Walt,
That makes everything a lot more simple. I suppose that once I look at the
manual tonight I will realize that is exactly what the manual says and I was
making it a lot harder than it had to be, right?
Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rveighta
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Quick build RV-8 gear leg drilling question
Stephen, what you're "measuring" for is the spot to drill a hole through the
BOTTOM skin for the 1/4" bolts on each side of the wear plates. Make the
hole big enough for a 1/4" socket to fit through. The holes won't show once
the top intersection fairings are in place.
Walt Shipley RV8A flyin' RV8 QB finish kit
-----Original Message-----
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: RV8-List: Quick build RV-8 gear leg drilling question
I have the RV-8 quick build fuselage. I have (finally) squared the gear legs
and drilled them to the gear leg boxes. The outer wear bars (can't recall
the part number) on each side have two 1/4 inch bolt holes that have to be
drilled. Since the bottom skin is already riveted in place, the only way to
get at them is through the cockpit side. How did you quick build builders
drill these holes? Van's construction manual says to measure for the holes,
but does not provide any information about how this is to be done. Practical
advice is greatly needed.
Stephen Soule
Swanton, Vermont
Quick
build RV-8 gear leg drilling question
I have the RV-8 quick build fuselage. I have (finally) squared the gear legs
and drilled them to the gear leg boxes. The outer wear bars (can't recall
the part number) on each side have two 1/4 inch bolt holes that have to be
drilled. Since the bottom skin is already riveted in place, the only way to
get at them is through the cockpit side. How did you quick build builders
drill these holes? Van's construction manual says to measure for the holes,
but does not provide any information about how this is to be done. Practical
advice is greatly needed.
Stephen Soule
Swanton, Vermont
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | rveighta <rveighta(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Quick build RV-8 gear leg drilling question |
Steve, hey, we've all been there. For a while I didn't realize there was a left
and right gear leg and had them on backwards!! Walt
-----Original Message-----
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: RE: RV8-List: Quick build RV-8 gear leg drilling question
Walt,
That makes everything a lot more simple. I suppose that once I look at the
manual tonight I will realize that is exactly what the manual says and I was
making it a lot harder than it had to be, right?
Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rveighta
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Quick build RV-8 gear leg drilling question
Stephen, what you're "measuring" for is the spot to drill a hole through the
BOTTOM skin for the 1/4" bolts on each side of the wear plates. Make the
hole big enough for a 1/4" socket to fit through. The holes won't show once
the top intersection fairings are in place.
Walt Shipley RV8A flyin' RV8 QB finish kit
-----Original Message-----
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: RV8-List: Quick build RV-8 gear leg drilling question
I have the RV-8 quick build fuselage. I have (finally) squared the gear legs
and drilled them to the gear leg boxes. The outer wear bars (can't recall
the part number) on each side have two 1/4 inch bolt holes that have to be
drilled. Since the bottom skin is already riveted in place, the only way to
get at them is through the cockpit side. How did you quick build builders
drill these holes? Van's construction manual says to measure for the holes,
but does not provide any information about how this is to be done. Practical
advice is greatly needed.
Stephen Soule
Swanton, Vermont
Quick
build RV-8 gear leg drilling question
I have the RV-8 quick build fuselage. I have (finally) squared the gear legs
and drilled them to the gear leg boxes. The outer wear bars (can't recall
the part number) on each side have two 1/4 inch bolt holes that have to be
drilled. Since the bottom skin is already riveted in place, the only way to
get at them is through the cockpit side. How did you quick build builders
drill these holes? Van's construction manual says to measure for the holes,
but does not provide any information about how this is to be done. Practical
advice is greatly needed.
Stephen Soule
Swanton, Vermont
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
I'm not an aerospace engineer, but I am a mechanical engineer. The thing
about a control surface needing to be statically balanced at it's hinge line
is not absolute. Having mass ahead of the hinge line generally helps with
dynamic stability of the control surface (as does the linkage tightness,
aerodynamics, etc.). But whether it's exactly balanced or not is not a
direct indication of whether or not the control system will be free of
flutter.
Point being, it doesn't have to balance exactly to work. With the RVs, I
trust Van 99% (sorry, I am an engineer & pilot and have some of my own
opinions). I built mine as the plans say - pipe only in the aileron LE.
Works fantastic after 713 hrs.
Good luck.
Bryan
Houston
>I just fitted my ailerons on the wings and find that they are not balanced,
>i.e. they tend to drop when held horizontally. Any thoughts on this issue?
>Should ailerons be perfectly balanced as elevators should?
>
>Michle
>RV8 - wings - France
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | RV 8 Wing & Empennage FOR SALE |
From: | "Textor, Jack" <jtextor(at)thepalmergroup.com> |
Hello all,
Wanted you to know I have decided to sell my RV8 empennage and wing
kits. I have been busy at work and finances just won't allow me to
complete it as fast as I would like to. The attached file details the
progress. Workmanship is very good, empennage is basically complete,
one wing is ready to close, the other is ready to skin, and tanks are
done. To purchase the two kits and accessories today it would cost
$7800. I will consider serious offers. Pictures of the empennage can
be seen at
http://mykitplane.com/Planes/photoGalleryList2.cfm?AlbumID153. Wing
pictures are at
http://mykitplane.com/Planes/photoGalleryList2.cfm?AlbumID156. I plan
to keep the tools.
Best regards to all!
Jack
Jack Textor
Vice President
Palmer Group
515-225-7000
www.thepalmergroup.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill Murrish <bmurrish(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV 8 Wing & Empennage FOR SALE |
Jack, just wanted to let you know that the links are not working.
"Textor, Jack"
Hello all,
Wanted you to know I have decided to sell my RV8 empennage and wing
kits. I have been busy at work and finances just won't allow me to
complete it as fast as I would like to. The attached file details the
progress. Workmanship is very good, empennage is basically complete,
one wing is ready to close, the other is ready to skin, and tanks are
done. To purchase the two kits and accessories today it would cost
$7800. I will consider serious offers. Pictures of the empennage can
be seen at
http://mykitplane.com/Planes/photoGalleryList2.cfm?AlbumID153. Wing
pictures are at
http://mykitplane.com/Planes/photoGalleryList2.cfm?AlbumID156. I plan
to keep the tools.
Best regards to all!
Jack
Jack Textor
Vice President
Palmer Group
515-225-7000
www.thepalmergroup.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <flynlow(at)usaviator.net> |
Subject: | RV 8 Wing & Empennage FOR SALE |
YOU SHOULD NOTE THAT YOUR LINKS DO NOT WORK.
Bud Silvers
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Textor, Jack
Subject: RV8-List: RV 8 Wing & Empennage FOR SALE
Hello all,
Wanted you to know I have decided to sell my RV8 empennage and wing
kits. I have been busy at work and finances just won't allow me to
complete it as fast as I would like to. The attached file details the
progress. Workmanship is very good, empennage is basically complete,
one wing is ready to close, the other is ready to skin, and tanks are
done. To purchase the two kits and accessories today it would cost
$7800. I will consider serious offers. Pictures of the empennage can
be seen at
http://mykitplane.com/Planes/photoGalleryList2.cfm?AlbumID153. Wing
pictures are at
http://mykitplane.com/Planes/photoGalleryList2.cfm?AlbumID156. I plan
to keep the tools.
Best regards to all!
Jack
Jack Textor
Vice President
Palmer Group
515-225-7000
www.thepalmergroup.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
Subject: | Re: RV-List: RV 8 Wing & Empennage FOR SALE |
Stick an = between the ID and the 153 and it will work.
Not sure who or what is stripping that out.
Mickey
Textor, Jack wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Textor, Jack"
>
> Hello all,
>
> Wanted you to know I have decided to sell my RV8 empennage and wing
> kits. I have been busy at work and finances just won't allow me to
> complete it as fast as I would like to. The attached file details the
> progress. Workmanship is very good, empennage is basically complete,
> one wing is ready to close, the other is ready to skin, and tanks are
> done. To purchase the two kits and accessories today it would cost
> $7800. I will consider serious offers. Pictures of the empennage can
> be seen at
> http://mykitplane.com/Planes/photoGalleryList2.cfm?AlbumID153. Wing
> pictures are at
> http://mykitplane.com/Planes/photoGalleryList2.cfm?AlbumID156. I plan
> to keep the tools.
>
> Best regards to all!
>
> Jack
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | RV8 empannage and wing project For Sale |
From: | "Textor, Jack" <jtextor(at)thepalmergroup.com> |
Hi all,
Thanks for the nice response to my earlier post regarding the sale of my
project. To make it a little easier I "threw" together a web site last
weekend. For more details on the project go to www.textorfamily.com
<http://www.textorfamily.com/> .
Thanks
Jack Textor
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Wally Allington" <chilipepper(at)summergrove.net> |
I read somewhere someone had mounted their canopy using epoxy instead of
screws and had very good results. Has anyone heard or read this also?
Installing my canopy is next on the list and would like more information
on glue vs screw if anyone is familiar with this. Wally -
Atlanta
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | DAYTONASKYHAWK(at)aol.com |
I have seen the canopy's mounted with Proseal with good results.
Mike Kelly
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
All long eze and VariEze canopies are epoxied in.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wally Allington" <chilipepper(at)summergrove.net>
Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 Canopy
>
>
> I read somewhere someone had mounted their canopy using epoxy instead of
> screws and had very good results. Has anyone heard or read this also?
> Installing my canopy is next on the list and would like more information
> on glue vs screw if anyone is familiar with this. Wally -
> Atlanta
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
Hi Wally,
This is the right way to do it, and the way I'll be doing it.
I've got a couple articles on my site about it:
http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story=20040916070516135
http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story=20040515213437823
and another great article is here:
http://www2.mstewart.net:8080/super8/bbcanopy/gluingyourcanopy.htm
BTW, Barefoot Billy seems to live very close to you. Give him a call!
Mickey
Wally Allington wrote:
>
> I read somewhere someone had mounted their canopy using epoxy instead of
> screws and had very good results. Has anyone heard or read this also?
> Installing my canopy is next on the list and would like more information
> on glue vs screw if anyone is familiar with this. Wally -
> Atlanta
>
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <groves(at)epix.net> |
> Go to Mike Stewarts web site, its called sikaflex, its how I plan to do my canopy.
Good Luck
Kirk
> From: "Wally Allington" <chilipepper(at)summergrove.net>
> Date: 2005/02/27 Sun PM 02:37:53 EST
> To:
> Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 Canopy
>
>
> I read somewhere someone had mounted their canopy using epoxy instead of
> screws and had very good results. Has anyone heard or read this also?
> Installing my canopy is next on the list and would like more information
> on glue vs screw if anyone is familiar with this. Wally -
> Atlanta
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jacob & Grace" <grizzlybear(at)klondiker.com> |
SikaFlex 295 U is the stuff...I have instructions if you want them.
----- Original Message -----
From: <groves(at)epix.net>
Subject: Re: RV8-List: RV-8 Canopy
>
>
>> Go to Mike Stewarts web site, its called sikaflex, its how I plan to do
>> my canopy.
> Good Luck
> Kirk
>
>
>> From: "Wally Allington" <chilipepper(at)summergrove.net>
>> Date: 2005/02/27 Sun PM 02:37:53 EST
>> To:
>> Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 Canopy
>>
>>
>>
>> I read somewhere someone had mounted their canopy using epoxy instead of
>> screws and had very good results. Has anyone heard or read this also?
>> Installing my canopy is next on the list and would like more information
>> on glue vs screw if anyone is familiar with this. Wally -
>> Atlanta
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Trio Avionics Auto Pilot Servo Location |
From: | "Alexander, Don" <Don.Alexander(at)astenjohnson.com> |
From those who have gone before, in our RV-8's, is there a consensus as
to where the most logical mounting point is for a wing leveler servo?
Thanks in Advance
Don
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
Subject: | Re: Trio Avionics Auto Pilot Servo Location |
Hi Don,
Here is how I did it:
http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story=20040910173454452
and
http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story=20041023174407440
Mickey
Alexander, Don wrote:
>
>>From those who have gone before, in our RV-8's, is there a consensus as
> to where the most logical mounting point is for a wing leveler servo?
> Thanks in Advance
> Don
>
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
Subject: | magnetometer in an RV-8? |
vansairforce
Where are you -8 builders putting your magnetometers for your Blue Mountains
and your Dynons?
Some ideas and photos would be great!
Thanks!
-Bill
www.rv8a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Don McNamara <N8RV(at)gte.net> |
Subject: | Brake master cylinders |
"RV-8 list (Matronics)"
Several builders have replaced the stock brake master cylinder setup
with ones that eliminate the brake fluid reservoir on the firewall and
all of the associated tubing. I've searched everywhere and can't seem to
find the part numbers for the right replacement master cylinders,
although I believe people were buying them from Aircraft Spruce or
Wicks. Searches of this forum didn't turn up any info. Anybody out
there know?
And, while on the subject, has anyone made the swap and regretted it?
Any chance to simplify systems sounds good to me right now ...
Thanks,
Don McNamara
N8RV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Don McNamara <N8RV(at)gte.net> |
"RV-8 list (Matronics)"
My wing kit was made before they started pre-punching the NACA vent in
the bottom of the right wing for passenger ventilation. I can't seem to
find any reference in the plans for WHERE this vent should go. Before I
start cutting sheet metal, can someone give me an idea where this goes?
Thanks,
Don McNamara
N8RV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Stone" <jrstone(at)insightbb.com> |
Subject: | Re: Brake master cylinders |
Don,
Are you sure what you are looking for is not the small reservoirs that screw
onto each master cylinder?
Jim Stone
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don McNamara" <N8RV(at)gte.net>
Subject: RV8-List: Brake master cylinders
>
> Several builders have replaced the stock brake master cylinder setup
> with ones that eliminate the brake fluid reservoir on the firewall and
> all of the associated tubing. I've searched everywhere and can't seem to
> find the part numbers for the right replacement master cylinders,
> although I believe people were buying them from Aircraft Spruce or
> Wicks. Searches of this forum didn't turn up any info. Anybody out
> there know?
>
> And, while on the subject, has anyone made the swap and regretted it?
> Any chance to simplify systems sounds good to me right now ...
>
> Thanks,
>
> Don McNamara
> N8RV
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Don McNamara <N8RV(at)gte.net> |
Subject: | Re: Brake master cylinders |
Thanks for the replies, guys.
Yeah, Jim, those are the buggers. I ordered them from Aircraft Spruce just
now. Couldn't find them in the catalog I had, and didn't remember exactly what
they were. I thought you had to buy the whole enchilada, not just the screw-in
reservoirs.
I appreciate all the help. You guys are great!
-- Don
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | UALPILOT3(at)aol.com |
Don,
It goes under the right wing. However, I never use mine because it brings
in a lot of noise from the exhaust. My RV-8 friends have the same problem. I
would locate it further out on the wing if mine had not been prepunched.
Les
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Textor, Jack" <jtextor(at)thepalmergroup.com> |
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Textor, Jack" <jtextor(at)thepalmergroup.com> |
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Textor, Jack" <jtextor(at)thepalmergroup.com> |
Don and list,
I don't know what that last post was...will try again. The front of the
vent is 7 and 3/4" from the front edge of the skin. The back of the
vent is 15 and 1/4" from the trailing edge of the skin edge. Th
centerline of the vent is 13" from the inboard edge of the skin. Hope
that help.
Jack Textor
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don McNamara
Subject: RV8-List: Wing vent
My wing kit was made before they started pre-punching the NACA vent in
the bottom of the right wing for passenger ventilation. I can't seem to
find any reference in the plans for WHERE this vent should go. Before I
start cutting sheet metal, can someone give me an idea where this goes?
Thanks,
Don McNamara
N8RV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
>
>Don and list,
>I don't know what that last post was...will try again. The front of the
>vent is 7 and 3/4" from the front edge of the skin. The back of the
>vent is 15 and 1/4" from the trailing edge of the skin edge. Th
>centerline of the vent is 13" from the inboard edge of the skin. Hope
>that help.
>Jack Textor
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don McNamara
>To: RV-8 group; RV-8 list (Matronics)
>Subject: RV8-List: Wing vent
>
>
>My wing kit was made before they started pre-punching the NACA vent in
>the bottom of the right wing for passenger ventilation. I can't seem to
>find any reference in the plans for WHERE this vent should go. Before I
>start cutting sheet metal, can someone give me an idea where this goes?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Don McNamara
>N8RV
Lads,
My wing kit came with the hole cut in the skin as per Jack's specs. It
provides plenty of air, but also lets in a lot of exhaust and prop noise.
The cabin is always noisiest while flying dual in the summertime heat.
Makes me wonder if a side cabin vent ala RV10 would work better for the back
seater.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Huft <rv8(at)lazy8.net> |
Subject: | Re: Brake master cylinders |
Don, the gotcha is that if you have the pedals in their forward-most
position, those reservoirs will hit the firewall, and either limit
travel, or break off. I am 5'11" and mine are in the second notch back.
John Huft, RV8
Don McNamara wrote:
>
>Thanks for the replies, guys.
>
>Yeah, Jim, those are the buggers. I ordered them from Aircraft Spruce just
>now. Couldn't find them in the catalog I had, and didn't remember exactly what
>they were. I thought you had to buy the whole enchilada, not just the screw-in
>reservoirs.
>
>I appreciate all the help. You guys are great!
>
>-- Don
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Brake master cylinders |
>
>
>Don, the gotcha is that if you have the pedals in their forward-most
>position, those reservoirs will hit the firewall, and either limit
>travel, or break off. I am 5'11" and mine are in the second notch back.
>
>John Huft, RV8
>
>
Same here, at 5'10" with pedals in the same position. I still greatly
prefer this setup vs. the runs of fugly looking tubing with red fluid and
visible bubbles that won't ever go away.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Brake master cylinders |
I got mine at Aircraft Spruce . . . P/N - A-600
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/reservoirs.php
I don't have any fluid in them yet so can't tell you how they work . .
. but I liked the idea of getting rid of the plastic hoses.
Good Luck,
Bob
>
> Several builders have replaced the stock brake master cylinder setup
> with ones that eliminate the brake fluid reservoir on the firewall and
> all of the associated tubing. I've searched everywhere and can't seem to
> find the part numbers for the right replacement master cylinders,
> although I believe people were buying them from Aircraft Spruce or
> Wicks. Searches of this forum didn't turn up any info. Anybody out
> there know?
>
> And, while on the subject, has anyone made the swap and regretted it?
> Any chance to simplify systems sounds good to me right now ...
>
> Thanks,
>
> Don McNamara
> N8RV
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Don McNamara <N8RV(at)gte.net> |
Subject: | Re: Brake master cylinders |
So, with my pedals in the SECOND notch from the firewall, I'll be OK, right?
(I ran out and looked -- that's where mine are)
--Don
N8RV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Subject: | Re: Brake master cylinders |
These are working well for me so far.
http://bowenaero.com/mt3/archives/2004/05/brake_master_cy.html
-
Larry Bowen, RV-8, ~70 Hrs.
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Huft [mailto:rv8(at)lazy8.net]
> Sent: Sunday, March 06, 2005 7:05 PM
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV8-List: Re: Brake master cylinders
>
>
> Don, the gotcha is that if you have the pedals in their
> forward-most position, those reservoirs will hit the
> firewall, and either limit travel, or break off. I am 5'11"
> and mine are in the second notch back.
>
> John Huft, RV8
>
>
> Don McNamara wrote:
>
> >
> >Thanks for the replies, guys.
> >
> >Yeah, Jim, those are the buggers. I ordered them from
> Aircraft Spruce
> >just now. Couldn't find them in the catalog I had, and
> didn't remember
> >exactly what they were. I thought you had to buy the whole
> enchilada,
> >not just the screw-in reservoirs.
> >
> >I appreciate all the help. You guys are great!
> >
> >-- Don
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Brake master cylinders |
>
>So, with my pedals in the SECOND notch from the firewall, I'll be OK,
>right?
>(I ran out and looked -- that's where mine are)
>
>--Don
> N8RV
>
Yes. Just to be sure, check for full rudder deflection anyway. If you
install firewall insulation, check it again!
Brian Denk
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ian Findlay" <ianjo(at)omninet.net.au> |
Hello to All in our address book,
So that you may update your address book please note that our email address changed
Tuesday 9 March at 1700hrs to :
ianjo7(at)bigpond.com
Cheers,
Ian and Joan Findlay (ianjo7)
Narrikup WA 6326
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Kevin Shannon" <kshannon(at)seanet.com> |
I bought an IO360 A1B6 for my 8 that was removed from a Beech Sierra. It
is a complete fwf, came with the baffles still on it. I was pleasantly
surprised to find out that the baffling fits the RV cowling pretty good,
with only minor modifications necessary.
Kevin Shannon
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
Subject: | Parking brake cable |
Hi,
I've got the Matco parking brake installed, and I'm trying
to figure out the best way to actuate it. Has anyone else
installed this?
http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story=20041117212045565
The problem is that the natural thing to do is to pull
a bowden cable to actuate the brake, but the way I
have this installed, pulling would be to release.
When the lever is up, the brake valve is open.
Thanks for any hints!
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jacob & Grace" <grizzlybear(at)klondiker.com> |
Subject: | Re: Parking brake cable |
I fastened a 6" arm of light angle directly to the lever. It has a "stop"
sign riveted on the end with "park brake" written. It moves down between my
legs when applied (hard to miss!). When raised it latches to the cockpit
cross brace.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject: RV8-List: Parking brake cable
>
> Hi,
>
> I've got the Matco parking brake installed, and I'm trying
> to figure out the best way to actuate it. Has anyone else
> installed this?
>
> http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story=20041117212045565
>
> The problem is that the natural thing to do is to pull
> a bowden cable to actuate the brake, but the way I
> have this installed, pulling would be to release.
> When the lever is up, the brake valve is open.
>
> Thanks for any hints!
> Mickey
> --
> Mickey Coggins
> http://www.rv8.ch/
> #82007 Wiring
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Parking brake cable |
Mickey,
I've been wrestling with the same issue . . . and plan to use a bowden
cable through one of the gear boxes (probably the right) . . . all the
way to the firewall then loop back to the valve back to the valve . .
. it will be pull on - push off. Mine is mounted horizontal with the
actuator on the right and connections to the brakes pointed aft with
the 45 degree A/N fitting . . . no, the 90 won't work . . . I did get
90s in the ones on the bottom, going to the pedals and I have
individual reservoirs on each master cylinder.
If anyone has a brilliant idea, send it on.
Good Luck,
Bob - to be: N678RC
wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> I've got the Matco parking brake installed, and I'm trying
> to figure out the best way to actuate it. Has anyone else
> installed this?
>
> http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story=20041117212045565
>
> The problem is that the natural thing to do is to pull
> a bowden cable to actuate the brake, but the way I
> have this installed, pulling would be to release.
> When the lever is up, the brake valve is open.
>
> Thanks for any hints!
> Mickey
> --
> Mickey Coggins
> http://www.rv8.ch/
> #82007 Wiring
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Greg@itmack" <greg(at)itmack.com> |
Hi all, DRG 11A refers to all of this:
I'm assembling the F804 wing centre section and I have found that the F804G spacer
bolt holes don't line up properly with the F804B. These are already predrilled
by Vans for close tolerance bolts so I assume I can't open up the holes.
I think that Vans drilled the F804G prior to factory assembling the F804E to the
F804B and the holes in the F804G (both sides) were drilled too high, so now
the top F804E is riveted in place it interferes with the F804G and therefore the
holes seem out of alignment.
One way to fix this is to shave a bit off the bottom of the F804G spacers (about
1/32") this would mean a sloppy fit between the F804Es but the bolt holes will
retain their tolerance.
Regards
Greg
82070
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Greg@itmack" <greg(at)itmack.com> |
Subject: | Re: F804G won't fit |
Disregard everyone. When I put them in the right way around the F804G fit
okay. I was on a night shift last night, that's my excuse and I'm sticking
to it.
After putting in a couple of the wrong rivets and trying to explode my rivet
gun with 100psi I'm calling it a day, before I burn the place down.
Tomorrow I'd better check what else I did today.
Greg
Yawn
>
> Hi all, DRG 11A refers to all of this:
>
> I'm assembling the F804 wing centre section and I have found that the
F804G spacer bolt holes don't line up properly with the F804B. These are
already predrilled by Vans for close tolerance bolts so I assume I can't
open up the holes.
>
> I think that Vans drilled the F804G prior to factory assembling the F804E
to the F804B and the holes in the F804G (both sides) were drilled too high,
so now the top F804E is riveted in place it interferes with the F804G and
therefore the holes seem out of alignment.
>
> One way to fix this is to shave a bit off the bottom of the F804G spacers
(about 1/32") this would mean a sloppy fit between the F804Es but the bolt
holes will retain their tolerance.
>
> Regards
> Greg
> 82070
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Don McNamara" <N8RV(at)gte.net> |
"RV-8 group"
Anyone else had fun with Van's wiring harness? I had the harness for the firewall-mounted
battery and changed my mind. Rather than horse around unbundling
wires, I just ordered the correct harness when I got the FWF kit, thinking that,
as long as I stuck with the plans on where to mount things, the harness should
bundle all the wires where they should go, right?
Well, either this rat's nest is somebody's idea of a joke, or I've got the plans
upside-down.
For example, the wires to the alternator, mags and the voltage regulator are, according
to the plans, the only ones exiting the right side of the firewall into
the engine compartment. However, there are a whole boatload of wires bundled
alongside, some longer than the mag and v. regulator wires. And, right alongside
them are the wires that are supposed to exit the LEFT side of the firewall.
Am I supposed to just cut apart the bundles and string the wires where they need
to go? If so, then what's the point of a wiring harness in the first place??
Sheesh ...
Since Van's is usually right and I'm usually wrong, somebody please tell me where
I goofed up.
-- Don McNamara
N8RV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Don McNamara" <N8RV(at)gte.net> |
"RV-8 group"
Uh ... never mind.
I think this one falls into the I-had-it-upside-down-and-probably-backwards category.
Please disregard my plea for help. This time.
There WILL be more to come ...
-- Don
N8RV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com> |
Don:
My reply was gonna be: Maybe you have it reversed. I did the same thing.
When I got it figured out, it fit perfectly.
Al Grajek
>From: "Don McNamara" <N8RV(at)gte.net>
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "RV-8 list (Matronics)" , "RV-8 group"
>
>Subject: RV8-List: Wiring harness
>Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2005 13:48:56 -0500
>
>
>Uh ... never mind.
>
>I think this one falls into the I-had-it-upside-down-and-probably-backwards
>category. Please disregard my plea for help. This time.
>
>There WILL be more to come ...
>
>-- Don
> N8RV
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Don McNamara" <N8RV(at)gte.net> |
Subject: | Re: Wiring harness |
Thanks, Al. Now my biggest concern is why I have two wires headed toward
the tail labeled "P9". The plans call for a P8 & a P9 for the flap motor.
Maybe I'll figure it out on a new day when I'm not tired of looking at
little numbers on little wires.
-- Don
N8RV
----- Original Message -----
From: "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com>
Subject: RE: RV8-List: Wiring harness
>
> Don:
> My reply was gonna be: Maybe you have it reversed. I did the same thing.
> When I got it figured out, it fit perfectly.
> Al Grajek
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
Subject: | Wheel pants and Grove gear |
Hi,
Anyone have pictures of their wheel pants and the
fairing between the wheel pants and the aerodynamic
Grove gear? Just looking for ideas.
Thanks,
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Huft <rv8(at)lazy8.net> |
Subject: | Re: Wheel pants and Grove gear |
http://www.lazy8.net/gear.htm
Mickey Coggins wrote:
>
>Hi,
>
>Anyone have pictures of their wheel pants and the
>fairing between the wheel pants and the aerodynamic
>Grove gear? Just looking for ideas.
>
>Thanks,
>Mickey
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com> |
Subject: | ACS analog unit? |
Where have you "RV-8 Builders" been mounting the analog unit for the
ACS Engine Monitor?
Thanks,
Bob Christensen
RV-8 - N678RC
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tony Johnson" <tonyjohnson(at)cfl.rr.com> |
Subject: | ACS analog unit? |
Bob,
I have not gotten that far yet.
Tony
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob C.
Subject: RV8-List: ACS analog unit?
Where have you "RV-8 Builders" been mounting the analog unit for the
ACS Engine Monitor?
Thanks,
Bob Christensen
RV-8 - N678RC
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mark Russell <mark(at)rv8tor.com> |
Subject: | Re: ACS analog unit? |
I mounted it below the "z-bar" on the bulkhead that is the "back" of
the instrument panel area. let me know if you want a pic.
-mark russell
On Mar 17, 2005, at 5:03 PM, Tony Johnson wrote:
>
> Bob,
>
> I have not gotten that far yet.
>
> Tony
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob C.
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV8-List: ACS analog unit?
>
>
> Where have you "RV-8 Builders" been mounting the analog unit for the
> ACS Engine Monitor?
>
> Thanks,
> Bob Christensen
> RV-8 - N678RC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Van's Aircraft Belt Buckles For Sale |
I have high quality "Van's Aircraft - Total Performance" belt buckles
for sale. I have also recently updated my site with better pictures, and customer
comments. Please check them out at:
http://home.earthlink.net/~gbrasch/
Thank you, Glenn Brasch, Tucson RV-9A fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Clark, Thomas M UTPWR" <Tom.Clark(at)utcfuelcells.com> |
Subject: | Van's Fuel Gauges???? |
RV Team,
I have now had two in flight issues with Van's fuel level gauges and was
wondering if anyone else has had problems. Both failures were a slow burning
on the internal circuit board and resulted in some very interesting smoke
and smell in the cockpit. First failure was at 17 hours and the second at 85
hours. Both units were purchased late last spring. Current draw was not
enough to blow the 3 amp CB. Has anyone on the list had a Van's fuel gauge
failure? Called Van's and the customer service rep said they had not had any
problems with them??
Tom Clark
RV8 Fastback
525TC
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com> |
Has anyone out there installed a Garmin GNS430 near the bottom of an
RV-8 panel, just above the Z cross-brace? . . . It may end up resting
on the Z-brace? . . .
I want it right below where the DG would be in a normal "6 pack" (I
will have a BMA "Lite" in that position.
I've not seen any pictures with one installed in that position is the
reason for the question . . . I seem to be the natural position for it
to me . . . am I asking for trouble?
Thanks,
Bob Christensen
RV-8 - N678RC - FWF/Panel/Finishing-slowly!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Greg@itmack" <greg(at)itmack.com> |
Subject: | F887 main longerons |
Hi all, I just finished bending and twisting the longerons and attaching them
to the jig with the bulkheads. I find that the longerons bow out at the F804
and I have to clamp them to stay on the WD802, the longerons want to sit about
an inch or two out from the WD802. Using a straight edge between the F807 and
the firewall the F804 does not line up. It's as if the F804 was too wide.
My understanding is that the longeron should be a straight line between the F807
and the WD802 but mine have a slight curve mostly forward of the F804 is this
normal or have I got a problem? I have checked the distance from the firewall
to all of the bulkheads at least 3 times so I don't think the problem is there
and the F806 floor structure fits in okay and everything is centred (the
bow is on both sides).
Greg
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: F887 main longerons |
From: | Ted P Utley <tpu2(at)juno.com> |
Greg, the best advice I had, and eventually took, was to tape a 10 ft or
so string (straight line) to the shop floor. I then marked the long's
and string with marks where the bends were to occur. Use a tape to
measure in from the line, and up from the floor to get a "3d"
measurement. The plans had some pretty good dimensions (I think) for the
bends. After a few tries, the longs fit pretty well. I still ended up
with a slight bow along the cockpit rails, but the rails riveted on fine,
and now you can't tell.
I don't think its probable that your F804 is too wide.
From your post, it sounds like you're trying to make one bend at the 807.
This bend should be enough to form the straight line from the 807 to the
804. The tricky part is the next bend/twist. Just fwd of the 804 flange
the long's will have have another bend to the 802s. Make sure you have a
twist that matches the 802 weldment. The twist will go aft almost all
the way to the 807s. If you look at the cockpit rails, you can see how
they lay on what will eventually be your longerons. Notice how the rails
become flat just fwd of the 807s. Ideally, the longs would match that.
I can assure you from looking at others, and building mine, alot of them
are gonna be off a little. It could be a problem if it was extreme, when
you install the canopy rails. Hope this helps a little. BTW, nothing
during the fuse construction perplexed me more than bending the
longs.....
Ted Utley
8A wiring/plumbing
.>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Dear RV guys,
I installed my LSE ignition Plasma III instead of the right magneto. By
assistance of Klaus Savier everything works fine, except starting
process.
The problem will be the wiring of my ACS keyswitch. I connected the wire
from the input plug to "R" of my keyswitch. There is a ignition process
as long as you hold the starter, when you release it ignition and engine
stops. I changed wiring from the input plug to "L/R" of the keyswitch.
Engine starts perfectly but I can't check the electronic ignition solely
during runup.
Ideas?
--
RV8
D-EBRV
Stephan J.W. Servatius
Untere Hauptstr. 3
85461 Bockhorn
GERMANY
Tel. +49 8122 483 83
Fax. +49 8122 902 188
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tony Johnson" <tonyjohnson(at)cfl.rr.com> |
Stephan,
I have been considering the best way to arrange ignition switches for my
RV8A with one mag and one EI. I had pretty much decided to go with a key
switch, until I learned of some safety issues with using a key switch. One
RV4 accident occurred when the key switch failed and turned off the mags.
Below is another similar story, from the areo electric list:
It was a dark and stormy night... Well, actually
>it was a bright and sunny day but it still scared me.
>While landing my Glasair, about halfway down the runway my engine quit.
>I was unable to get the engine restarted again, and after
>some limited troubleshooting I think I have traced the
>problem down to the ignition key switch. It is a
>Cessna key switch model A-510, part # C292501-0105.
>
> Would anyone happen to have a schematic for this
>key switch? I think the way it works is that it simply
>grounds (connects the p-lead wire to the
>p-lead shield which is grounded at the magneto)
>when switched to the OFF position, and leaves
>the p-lead disconnected (ie, "open") when in the
>BOTH position. Referring to Z-26 seems to follow this logic.
>Using my multimeter, I was able to
>determine that the p-leads for both mags are connected to
>the p-lead shield (ie, "grounded") in all four
>positions of the key switch, OFF, R, L, and BOTH.
>I measured this without removing any wires from
>the keyswitch.
>
> Am I on the right track, or should I be
>chasing some other gremlin? Should I remove
>the wires from the keyswitch and test it separately?
>
> If I do definitely determine that the
>keyswitch is the problem, I'm dumping it and replacing it
>with two switches and a push button. Seems silly to have
>a redundant ignition system tied to a single point of
>failure like this, especially after it scared the
>cr*p out of me.
>
>Thanks,
>
>-Dj
I am now planning on having two toggle switches for my ignition. Just
thought that I would pass this along for your consideration.
Tony Johnson
RV8A Orlando
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
romeo.victor@t-online.de
Subject: RV8-List: LSE ignition
<romeo.victor@t-online.de>
Dear RV guys,
I installed my LSE ignition Plasma III instead of the right magneto. By
assistance of Klaus Savier everything works fine, except starting
process.
The problem will be the wiring of my ACS keyswitch. I connected the wire
from the input plug to "R" of my keyswitch. There is a ignition process
as long as you hold the starter, when you release it ignition and engine
stops. I changed wiring from the input plug to "L/R" of the keyswitch.
Engine starts perfectly but I can't check the electronic ignition solely
during runup.
Ideas?
--
RV8
D-EBRV
Stephan J.W. Servatius
Untere Hauptstr. 3
85461 Bockhorn
GERMANY
Tel. +49 8122 483 83
Fax. +49 8122 902 188
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jacob & Grace" <grizzlybear(at)klondiker.com> |
Subject: | Wheel Pant Options |
My RV-8 is coming out of paint and I am trying to arrange the final inspection.
Has anyone used or aware of a source for "Wheel Spats". Maule put them on every
Maule for years and everyone took them off and threw them away. Now I want
to try a set because I have 6" wheels on the 8 and can't find any. They may be
a good option for rougher use.
81938
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
>
>I am now planning on having two toggle switches for my ignition. Just
>thought that I would pass this along for your consideration.
>
>Tony Johnson
>RV8A Orlando
Absolutely. I have two toggle switches in my airplane for LSE and one mag.
Works flawlessly, is simple, lightweight, cheap and reliable. Key switches
offer little in the way of true security and add complexity to the critical
ignition circuitry in the airplane.
Oh, to keep the toggles pointing the same direction (Up for ON or HOT), you
just flip the one for the mag over.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51 tailcone trim servo stuff.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: LSE ignition |
In a message dated 3/29/05 8:47:58 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
tonyjohnson(at)cfl.rr.com writes:
Stephan,
I have been considering the best way to arrange ignition switches for my
RV8A with one mag and one EI. I had pretty much decided to go with a key
switch, until I learned of some safety issues with using a key switch. One
RV4 accident occurred when the key switch failed and turned off the mags.
I have toggle swithces for my mag and EI. No keys ... I keep the plane
hangered so I will live with the threat of theft. Works great and I have never
forgotten the keys !!
Len Leggette, RV-8A
Greensboro, N.C. N910LL
337 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mary Ann Mazzarella" <mario447(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: removal of address |
Plz remove me from the message list.
thank you Mario Mazzarella
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jacob & Grace" <grizzlybear(at)klondiker.com>
Subject: RV8-List: Wheel Pant Options
>
>
> My RV-8 is coming out of paint and I am trying to arrange the final
> inspection.
>
> Has anyone used or aware of a source for "Wheel Spats". Maule put them on
> every Maule for years and everyone took them off and threw them away. Now
> I want to try a set because I have 6" wheels on the 8 and can't find any.
> They may be a good option for rougher use.
>
> 81938
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "David Rowbotham" <davidrowbotham(at)myeastern.com> |
Subject: | Re: LSE ignition |
Stephan,
We have been running our RV-8a in this configuration for the last 300 hrs.
Impulse Mag and one Jeff Rose EI's. Both toggle switches are located next to
each other on our switch panel. The only down side to the dual switch was an
extra hour labor charge from our FBO when they were working on the ac and
wasted the hour trying to figure out how to start it instead of calling me.
Procedure to start the AC requires energizing the main bus, placing the
impulse mag to on, mixture/fuel pump/throttle, and start button on the grip
then the EI.
It seams complicated but once it is running you can fly the AC without
having to reach for a key switch to restart it in case of problems.
David Rowbotham
RV-8A N712CR
In Annual 300+ hrs
----- Original Message -----
From: <Lenleg(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV8-List: LSE ignition
>
>
> In a message dated 3/29/05 8:47:58 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> tonyjohnson(at)cfl.rr.com writes:
>
> Stephan,
>
> I have been considering the best way to arrange ignition switches for my
> RV8A with one mag and one EI. I had pretty much decided to go with a key
> switch, until I learned of some safety issues with using a key switch.
> One
> RV4 accident occurred when the key switch failed and turned off the mags.
>
>
> I have toggle swithces for my mag and EI. No keys ... I keep the plane
> hangered so I will live with the threat of theft. Works great and I have
> never
> forgotten the keys !!
>
> Len Leggette, RV-8A
> Greensboro, N.C. N910LL
> 337 hrs
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Flying around the World |
This is copy from AV Flash a online aviation news letter.
Dave in Toledo
_http://www.avweb.com/eletter/archives/avflash/378-full.html#189474_
(http://www.avweb.com/eletter/archives/avflash/378-full.html#189474)
RVing Around The World...
Homebuilt Pilot Well On His Way
Some say that in a homebuilt, every flight is a test flight, and a
California pilot is putting his RV-8 through the ringer. While thousands of fellow
EAA
members and other aviation enthusiasts are getting ready for the annual trip
to _Sun 'n Fun_ (http://www.sun-n-fun.org/) in Florida starting April 12
(of course, AVweb will be there with special coverage next Monday, Wednesday,
Friday and the following Monday), Bill Randolph, of _EAA Chapter 119_
(http://www.eaa119.org/) in Watsonville, Calif., should have arrived at or be close
to Bali, where he'll visit his son on the final leg of his round-the-world
trip. Randolph left Watsonville on March 9 and the peppy RV helps him cover
some pretty significant distances on each leg. After stops in Abilene, Fort
Lauderdale, San Juan, Trinidad and Fortaleza, Brazil, Randolph tackled the
Atlantic. The flight from Brazil to Dakar, Senegal, took 14 hours (three
hours longer than planned because of headwinds). But Randolph apparently likes
flying over water. Chapter 119 is providing daily updates on its Web site
based on Randolph's almost daily calls to his wife, Shirley. In his account of
the ocean crossing he's reported to have said that he "feels free" over the
water. Maybe that's a good thing. About 20,000 miles of his 26,000-mile trip
is over water.
...Bureaucracy Slows Him Down...
Now, anyone in the surprisingly small club of those who've flown around the
world will tell you that the flying is the easy part. It's getting permission
to fly in countries that rarely see small private aircraft (let alone
homebuilts) that can be the most time-consuming and stressful part of the journey.
So far he's dealt with a put-out tribal chief in Senegal, had the Greek air
force looking for him (they didn't find him), been surrounded by police and
military in Cypress and waded through a quagmire of bureaucracy in India.
Ironically, however, one of his most unpleasant experiences was just before
leaving the good old U.S. of A., Shirley Randolph told AVweb. Randolph said some
of the surliest people her husband has met en route were in Ft. Lauderdale,
Fla., where folks at the airport "refused" to help him find a hotel for the
night (it was spring break) and appeared otherwise to be generally rude. But
she said the nastiness of that encounter has been more than made up by the
kindness of strangers along the route, including a hotel owner in Brazil who
lent Randolph an expensive headset after his failed. "You can give it back to
me when you return, don't worry," Randolph quoted the hotel owner as saying.
...An Elite Club
Assuming he makes it, Randolph will be among a handful of people on the
list kept by _Earthrounders_ (http://www.earthrounders.com/index.html) who've
flown a homebuilt around the world. So far, Australian adventurer Jon Johanson
is the only RV owner (on that list) to make the trip and he's done it twice,
including a loop over the North Pole, in his RV-4. Randolph's successful
jaunt would be another feather in the cap for Van's Aircraft, which makes the
RV
series of kit planes. (Experimentals -- originating from all manufacturers
-- now make up about 10 percent of the GA fleet.) According to the RV company
Web site, Randolph's is one of 4,118 flying RVs, making it the most popular
homebuilt. In fact, if all those RVs were registered in the U.S. (we don't
know how many aren't), they'd represent about 20 percent of the homebuilt
total, which weighs in at about 22,000 finished flying aircraft, according to
figures supplied to us by the FAA.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Don McNamara" <N8RV(at)gte.net> |
Subject: | IO-360 lower cowl |
"RV-8 group"
Anybody have a lower cowl for an IO-360 to sell?
Someone posted many months ago with one to sell, but I can't find the e-mail.
When I started this project, the engine choices available to us were far fewer.
Now, I need a smooth lower cowl instead of the snorkeled version.
If one's available, please contact me off-list (N8RV(at)gte.net)
Thanks,
Don McNamara
N8RV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Subject: | [Please Read] Matronics Email Server Upgrade... |
Dear Listers,
I will be upgrading the Matronics Email Server this weekend. This includes
some hardware improvements - more memory, faster, more capable processors -
as well as a complete operating system upgrade from scratch. I hope to
have both the old system and the new system running at the same time to
minimize the actual impact of the upgrade.
Hopefully there will be little actual downtime during the transition, but a
few posts may get lost in the shuffle. If you don't see your post show up
on the List in the normal amount of time (plus a little bit), then please
just try posting it again.
Upgrading the Matronics Email Server operating system (from Redhat Linux
7.2 to Redhat Linux WS 4) is a sizeable undertaking and requires a great
deal of work to port all of the utilities, programs, and scripts over to
the new system. As I've already mentioned, both the old and new systems
will be on line at the same time, so interruption should be held to an
absolute minimal. You might see a couple of odd test messages during the
cut-over or other odd messages; please just ignore them.
I have setup a new System Status Web Page that I will use to update List
Members on the current status of the email and web systems. Please refer
to it as often as you like:
http://www.matronics.com/SystemStatus/
Thank you for your continued support of the List Services at
Matronics! Its your yearly Contributions that make these major upgrades
possible!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Subject: | [Please Read] Matronics Email Server Upgrade Complete! |
Dear Listers,
The upgrade of the Matronics Email Server can be considered complete at
this time. All known issues related to the upgrade process have been
resolved and email services are running normal. The Nightly Digest
processing has not yet been tested and will wait for tonight's update.
If you encounter any odd behavior with respect to the Matronics Email
Server over the next few days, please contact me via email at
dralle(at)matronics.com or if that fails try dralle(at)speakeasy.net.
Thanks to everyone for being patient through this arduous process of a
major system upgrade!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
At 12:37 PM 4/16/2005 Saturday, Matt Dralle wrote:
>Dear Listers,
>
>I will be upgrading the Matronics Email Server this weekend. This
>includes some hardware improvements - more memory, faster, more capable
>processors - as well as a complete operating system upgrade from
>scratch. I hope to have both the old system and the new system running at
>the same time to minimize the actual impact of the upgrade.
>
>Hopefully there will be little actual downtime during the transition, but
>a few posts may get lost in the shuffle. If you don't see your post show
>up on the List in the normal amount of time (plus a little bit), then
>please just try posting it again.
>
>Upgrading the Matronics Email Server operating system (from Redhat Linux
>7.2 to Redhat Linux WS 4) is a sizeable undertaking and requires a great
>deal of work to port all of the utilities, programs, and scripts over to
>the new system. As I've already mentioned, both the old and new systems
>will be on line at the same time, so interruption should be held to an
>absolute minimal. You might see a couple of odd test messages during the
>cut-over or other odd messages; please just ignore them.
>
>I have setup a new System Status Web Page that I will use to update List
>Members on the current status of the email and web systems. Please refer
>to it as often as you like:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/SystemStatus/
>
>
>Thank you for your continued support of the List Services at
>Matronics! Its your yearly Contributions that make these major upgrades
>possible!
>
>Best regards,
>
>Matt Dralle
>Matronics Email List Administrator
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com> |
I'm ready to mount my GNS430, Transponder, and Audio Panel.
They look like they'll stick out quite a ways . . . looks like it
would be nice to set them back in the panel . . . not quite flush . .
. what has been the best solution for mounting radio equipment . . .
the traditional way or set back into the panel.
Looks like it would be easier the "traditional way"?
Thanks,
Bob Christensen - N678RC
RV-8 Bldr SE Iowa
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com> |
Subject: | Re: Mounting Radios |
On 04/18 3:45, Bob C. wrote:
>
> I'm ready to mount my GNS430, Transponder, and Audio Panel.
>
> They look like they'll stick out quite a ways . . . looks like it
> would be nice to set them back in the panel . . . not quite flush . .
> . what has been the best solution for mounting radio equipment . . .
> the traditional way or set back into the panel.
Mine stick out (all of them) exactly 3/10th of an inch, just shy
of the bezel width. It was pretty easy to fabricate the mounts.
I think it looks ok. I assume that mounting "methods" are similar
for 8's and 7's, but I could be wrong, don't know much about 8's.
see entry dated 7/3/04
http://rv7-a.com/avionics.htm
Finished Results
http://rv7-a.com/Img_5172.jpg
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
Ready to move to airport
Looking for a trailer...
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Joel Harding <cajole76(at)ispwest.com> |
Subject: | Re: Mounting Radios |
Bob,
One other thing to consider is the space behind the radios. The
traditional mounting leaves minimal space to get to the plugs for
trouble shooting or adding pins at a later date. Moving the radios
further back would only aggravate the situation.
Joel Harding
> On 04/18 3:45, Bob C. wrote:
>
>>
>> I'm ready to mount my GNS430, Transponder, and Audio Panel.
>>
>> They look like they'll stick out quite a ways . . . looks like it
>> would be nice to set them back in the panel . . . not quite flush . .
>> . what has been the best solution for mounting radio equipment . . .
>> the traditional way or set back into the panel.
>
> Mine stick out (all of them) exactly 3/10th of an inch, just shy
> of the bezel width. It was pretty easy to fabricate the mounts.
> I think it looks ok. I assume that mounting "methods" are similar
> for 8's and 7's, but I could be wrong, don't know much about 8's.
>
> see entry dated 7/3/04
> http://rv7-a.com/avionics.htm
>
> Finished Results
> http://rv7-a.com/Img_5172.jpg
>
> --
> Walter Tondu
> http://www.rv7-a.com
> Ready to move to airport
> Looking for a trailer...
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Greg@itmack" <greg(at)itmack.com> |
Subject: | Fuse bottom skins |
Hi all, I always have problems on the weekend. I'm trying to fit the F842 bottom
skin. The instructions say to line up the 2 pre-punched holes at the forward
end of the F842 with pre-punched holes at the aft end of the F826 & F827.
My problem is the holes punched in the F842 are not the same distance apart as
the ones in the F826 & F827. The F826 & F827 line up on the centres of the F806
and F807 and the pre-punched holes of the F804 should keep the F826 & F827
square as well.
Is this a standard problem and one of the holes in the F842 punched wrong or is
this something I've done wrong? With only one hole clecoed and using a tight
string line the F842 sits nicely centred along the fuse.
Greg
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cory Emberson" <bootless(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Dan Checkoway's Panel in June Kitplanes Magazine |
Hello, all!
I just got my June issue of Kitplanes Magazine, and lo and behold, there is
Dan Checkoway's RV-7 panel in former RV-8'er Ken Balch's panel article!
Well done!
best, Cory
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "George Inman" <ghinman(at)mts.net> |
Subject: | Manifold pressure to primer port |
What did others use to connect
Manifold press. to primer port
Primer fittings are 5/16 32
but some say to use AN816-4
Whch is 1/4 inch
The primer port on my
#4 cyl. seems a bit larger than 1/4"
GEORGE H. INMAN
ghinman(at)mts.net
CELL 204 799 7062
HOME 204 287 8334
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | [ Mike Holland ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Mike Holland
Lists: RV-List,RV6-List,RV7-List,RV8-List,RV9-List,RV10-List
Subject: Quickbuild Fuel Pickup Issue
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/hollandm@pacbell.net.05.02.2005/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Andair fuel valve/Gascolator FS |
Hi All,
I have a NIB Andair gascolator with 3/8" female fittings and quick drain valve
for sale. $185 (Spruce price $189.95 + 29.95)
Also, New mounted but never used Andair FS20-20-D2 fuel selector valve. This has
female fittings, 3/8" feed, 1/4" return. $380.
$550 for both + shipping
I'm changing directions and don't need these for my set up.
Darwin N. Barrie
P19
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jimmy Hill" <jimmy(at)jhill.biz> |
Planning a sightseeing trip in our RV-8A to the Dakota territory (both North and
South).
Would much appreciate any suggested stops, sights, RV friendly places, good overnites,
etc.
Thanks.
Jimmy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <groves(at)epix.net> |
Hello Jimmy,
Stop in Lisbon,ND my father in-law is the airport manager and a crop sprayer
there. They just put new taxi ways and a new airport office in and it is GREAT!
Really friendly town and would make a great stop in SE North Dakota. The identifer
is 6L3, tell Marlin(my father-in-law) that I sent you and I am sure you
will get the royal teatment. If you are going to be around that area on june
19 they are having a fly in breakfest.
Have fun,
Kirk Groves RV-8 starting QB fuse
>
> From: "Jimmy Hill" <jimmy(at)jhill.biz>
> Date: 2005/05/15 Sun PM 02:23:41 EDT
> To:
> Subject: RV8-List: Dakota's
>
>
> Planning a sightseeing trip in our RV-8A to the Dakota territory (both North
and South).
>
> Would much appreciate any suggested stops, sights, RV friendly places, good overnites,
etc.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Jimmy
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Paranoider Deutschenmoerder kommt in Psychiatrie |
--> RV8-List message posted by: j1j2h3(at)juno.com
Lese selbst:
http://brandenburg.rz.fhtw-berlin.de/poetschke.html
---------------------------------------------------
Letter content was scanned by WinAntiVirus 2005.
No threat detected.
Please visit www.winantivirus.com for more details.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com |
Subject: | Fuselage Issue # 2 - Twist on 887 longeron |
--> RV8-List message posted by:
For those of you who have not been here yet please note that there is an
error in the fuselage construction instructions.
On page 6-5, it says =93forward of 804A both a bend and a twist are required=92.
Problem is that by doing this, the twist goes from 0=B0 at F-804A to app. 15=B0
at the firewall top weldment. BUT there should already be a twist at 804A so
the twist should be between, 807 and 804B =96 i.e. 0=B0 at 807 and 15=B0 at 804B,
hence no additional twist between 804 and firewall.
Mich=E8le
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com |
Subject: | fuselage issue #1 - Roll bar width vs 804 a tip separation |
--> RV8-List message posted by:
There is a problem in the pre punched dimensions of 804 A/B. When assembled,
the gap may be too wide for positioning the roll bar.
The requirement is that the 887 longerons should be straight between the 807
bulkhead and the firewall weldment. When I did this and put 804 on, I
discovered that the 804A/B cross wise width is too wide by more than =BD=94
which causes the longerons to bend in the horizontal plane substantially
which will prevent the roll bar to be bolted onto the 887 longerons.
The solution I have been recommended is to build on and later, when it is
time to adjust things for the roll bar, to bring in the sides of the cockpit
via a long clamp across the cockpit and then flute the 804A/B webs to absorb
their buckling.
I am currently reassembling things to check whether I should not be doing
the fluting now rather than later.
I have discussed this problem with Van=92s, please feel free to comment.
Mich=E8le Delsol
RV8 Fuselage - SN 81963
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com |
Subject: | Fuselage Issue # 3 - F827/7 to F842 positioning |
--> RV8-List message posted by:
Skins F826/7 have two cross wise aft lines of rivets =96 they attach the
F826/7 skins to the F842 skin and to the F807 bulkhead.
To make a long story short, plans tell you that the match hole is on the
edge line of rivets =96 If you do this, then the F842 will not match the
bulkheads aft, 806, 805=85 to 812. Too match their positions, the match hole
to use is on the inside of the two lines of rivet holes. drawing 28 (F826
bottom view) is wrong.
This is corroborated by the fact that if you do overlap 826/7 to 842 on two
lines of rivets instead of one, the junction is a lot stronger and 842 does
get riveted onto 807 =96 which makes sense. Otherwise the aft part of the
airplane would be held by only one line of rivet and the aft bulkheads would
have to be pushed back from their planned dimensions.
I contacted Vans on this =96 they will modify the plans. Feel free to comment.
Mich=E8le
RV8 =96 Fuselage SN81963
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | fuselage issue #1 - Roll bar width vs 804 a tip separation |
From: | "Ken Dominy" <abqmooney(at)excite.com> |
--> RV8-List message posted by: "Ken Dominy"
I had the same problem with my 8 qb, and another local builder with his standard
kit. My solution was to take the roll bar to a body shop and use a power pack
to expand the roll bar to fit the fuselage as built. It took about 3 inches
of displacement for the roll bar to stretch the 1/4 to 3/8 inch required after
"springback." The flanges of the roll bar did not fit down flush with the
longeron (even worse after the stretch). I could have filled the wedge shaped
gap with somthing, but that would have the two outer surfaces not parallel,
and not suitable for bolting together. I could have made a wedge and placed it
under the bolt heads, but didn't like that idea either. Both of us wound up
bending the roll bar flanges downward with a large cresent wrench. Of course,
the tack welds on the edges broke, but the flanges fit, and we were able to
bolt the roll bars on our aircraft sucessfully.--- On Fri 05/20, owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
wrote:
From: [mailto: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com, RV-8(at)yahoogroups.comDate: Fri, 20 May 2005 10:29:23 +0200Subject: RV8-List: fuselage issue #1 - Roll bar width vs 804 a tip separation-- RV8-List message posted by: There is a problem in the pre punched dimensions of 804 A/B. When assembled,the gap may be too wide for positioning the roll bar.The requirement is that the 887 longerons should be straight between the 807bulkhead and the firewall weldment. When I did this and put 804 on, Idiscovered that the 804A/B cross wise width is too wide by more than =BD=94which causes the longerons to bend in the horizontal plane substantiallywhich will prevent the roll bar to be bolted onto the 887 longerons.The solution I have been recommended is to build on and later, when it istime to adjust things for the roll bar, to bring in the sides of the cockpitvia a long clamp across the cockpit and then flute the 804A/B webs to absorbtheir buckling.I am
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Vincent Himsl" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> |
Subject: | Rv8 Botched cowl cut |
--> RV8-List message posted by: "Vincent Himsl"
Hello,
I have botched the cutting of my cowl, as in major.
The main area affected is where the top and lower halves meet. Half the
distance from the firewall to the front has a gap 1/2" or so on both sides.
Fortunately, I didn't screw up further by cutting off the front section whee
the plate nuts and screws go.
I intend to rebuild the edges affected (West System Epoxy, Rutan's S cloth)
but do not know if I can get away with this as I will have to mount the
hinges to this rebuilt area.
Would appreciate feedback from any who have faced this, especially those who
have communicated with Van's.
Thanks!
Vince Himsl
RV8 Finish
Moscow, ID USA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]
Subject: RV8-List: fuselage issue #1 - Roll bar width vs 804 a tip
separation
--> RV8-List message posted by:
There is a problem in the pre punched dimensions of 804 A/B. When assembled,
the gap may be too wide for positioning the roll bar.
The requirement is that the 887 longerons should be straight between the 807
bulkhead and the firewall weldment. When I did this and put 804 on, I
discovered that the 804A/B cross wise width is too wide by more than =BD=94
which causes the longerons to bend in the horizontal plane substantially
which will prevent the roll bar to be bolted onto the 887 longerons.
The solution I have been recommended is to build on and later, when it is
time to adjust things for the roll bar, to bring in the sides of the cockpit
via a long clamp across the cockpit and then flute the 804A/B webs to absorb
their buckling.
I am currently reassembling things to check whether I should not be doing
the fluting now rather than later.
I have discussed this problem with Van=92s, please feel free to comment.
Mich=E8le Delsol
RV8 Fuselage - SN 81963
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
Subject: | Re: Rv8 Botched cowl cut |
--> RV8-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins
Hi Vince,
Sorry to hear about the problem.
I'm getting close to being able to work on my cowl, so if
you don't mind, I'd appreciate knowing how it happened,
so I can avoid making the same mistake.
Thanks!
Mickey
> I have botched the cutting of my cowl, as in major.
>
> The main area affected is where the top and lower halves meet. Half the
> distance from the firewall to the front has a gap 1/2" or so on both sides.
> Fortunately, I didn't screw up further by cutting off the front section whee
> the plate nuts and screws go.
>
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Craig <craigtxtx(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | RV8 Aileron bracket fab question |
Reference: Aileron hinge bracket assembly W-413, Dwg. 10A
The inboard aileron hinge bracket assembly W-413 calls for three AN426 flush rivets.
The exploded iso view calls out the flat head location as "inboard" or
"outboard". Are the "inboard" and "outboard" terms relative to the wing, or the
aileron? I'm not sure why these few rivets are specified flush rivets, so
its hard to determine which side of the assembly needs to be a smooth surface.
Thanks,
Craig
RV8AQB wings
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 05/22/05 |
please remove me from list
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Kevin Shannon" <kshannon(at)seanet.com> |
Subject: | Rv8 Botched cowl cut |
Vince,
I did the same thing when I built my 9A, and rebuilt the edge with West
systems. Had no problems. I put an extra layup over the patched area on
the inside, and shimmed the other half to match the added thickness.
Kevin Shannon
RV-9A sold
RV-8 N184KS almost ready
vhimsl(at)turbonet.com>
Hello,
I have botched the cutting of my cowl, as in major.
The main area affected is where the top and lower halves meet. Half the
distance from the firewall to the front has a gap 1/2" or so on both
sides.
Fortunately, I didn't screw up further by cutting off the front section
whee
the plate nuts and screws go.
I intend to rebuild the edges affected (West System Epoxy, Rutan's S
cloth)
but do not know if I can get away with this as I will have to mount the
hinges to this rebuilt area.
Would appreciate feedback from any who have faced this, especially those
who
have communicated with Van's.
Thanks!
Vince Himsl
RV8 Finish
Moscow, ID USA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Don McNamara" <N8RV(at)gte.net> |
Subject: | Re: Rv8 Botched cowl cut |
Vince, I'm sure you'll be fine repairing your cowl edges.
HOWEVER ...
I do still have a new lower cowl with scoop if anyone needs it ... make
somebody a really sweet deal ... ;-)
-- Don McNamara
N8RV
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Shannon" <kshannon(at)seanet.com>
Subject: RE: RV8-List: Rv8 Botched cowl cut
>
>
> Vince,
> I did the same thing when I built my 9A, and rebuilt the edge with West
> systems. Had no problems. I put an extra layup over the patched area on
> the inside, and shimmed the other half to match the added thickness.
> Kevin Shannon
> RV-9A sold
> RV-8 N184KS almost ready
>
> vhimsl(at)turbonet.com>
>
>
> Hello,
>
> I have botched the cutting of my cowl, as in major.
>
> The main area affected is where the top and lower halves meet. Half the
> distance from the firewall to the front has a gap 1/2" or so on both
> sides.
> Fortunately, I didn't screw up further by cutting off the front section
> whee
> the plate nuts and screws go.
>
> I intend to rebuild the edges affected (West System Epoxy, Rutan's S
> cloth)
> but do not know if I can get away with this as I will have to mount the
> hinges to this rebuilt area.
>
> Would appreciate feedback from any who have faced this, especially those
> who
> have communicated with Van's.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Vince Himsl
> RV8 Finish
> Moscow, ID USA
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "BRUCE GRAY" <brucerv84us(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | RV8 Aileron bracket fab question |
Craig,
I am not looking at my wings but I believe the AN426 heads are on the
outboard side(WING) of the assembly. There is another one on the bottom
outboard most rivet hole also. This is all to allow clearance for the
aileron when deflecting in its range of motion. You will understand all of
it when you pin up the aileron for the first time and see the clearance
issues I am talking about. If you were to install 470's or install the rivet
from the inboard side you may have clearance issues with the aileron
counterweight.
Hope this help a little. If this doesn't wait till I get home and look at my
wings. Deal!
Bruce G.
RV8
Fuse due in 2 weeks
>From: Craig <craigtxtx(at)yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV8-List: RV8 Aileron bracket fab question
>Date: Mon, 23 May 2005 03:54:16 -0700 (PDT)
>
>
>Reference: Aileron hinge bracket assembly W-413, Dwg. 10A
>
>The inboard aileron hinge bracket assembly W-413 calls for three AN426
>flush rivets. The exploded iso view calls out the flat head location as
>"inboard" or "outboard". Are the "inboard" and "outboard" terms relative
>to the wing, or the aileron? I'm not sure why these few rivets are
>specified flush rivets, so its hard to determine which side of the assembly
>needs to be a smooth surface.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Craig
>RV8AQB wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
--
Stephan J.W. Servatius
Untere Hauptstr. 3
85461 Bockhorn
GERMANY
Tel. +49 8122 483 83
Fax. +49 8122 902 188
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Craig <craigtxtx(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | RV8 Aileron bracket fab question |
Bruce,
Thanks. I also wrote Vans and they indicated that all references in the plans
are relative to the centerline of the aircraft. Seems obvious now, but didn't
seem so clear when I was in the hanger trying to make sure I didn't screw anything
up.
Craig
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Wally Allington" <chilipepper(at)summergrove.net> |
Subject: | RV8 Aileron bracket fab question |
Craig
That question also came up as I was working on the wings. Called
Vans and they said think of everything on the airplane as from the
fuselage out rather than from the individual component. Good luck
Wally
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Craig
Subject: RV8-List: RV8 Aileron bracket fab question
Reference: Aileron hinge bracket assembly W-413, Dwg. 10A
The inboard aileron hinge bracket assembly W-413 calls for three AN426
flush rivets. The exploded iso view calls out the flat head location as
"inboard" or "outboard". Are the "inboard" and "outboard" terms
relative to the wing, or the aileron? I'm not sure why these few rivets
are specified flush rivets, so its hard to determine which side of the
assembly needs to be a smooth surface.
Thanks,
Craig
RV8AQB wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com> |
I'm in the initial stages of fitting my Van's "Filtered Air Box" to my
"O-360" engine with a Precision MA4-5 carburetor. Like for most of these
carburetors, I had to cut a hole to allow the bowl drain to protrude into
the "mount plate" (VA-131-C).
My question is this: The above hole will allow "dirty air" to enter the
"clean air part of the air box" unless you do something to seal it! What
have others done to seal these cracks . . . or am I missing something??
Thanks,
Bob Christensen
RV-8 N678RC - In SE Iowa . . . FWF, etc., etc.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dick DeCramer" <diesel(at)rconnect.com> |
Subject: | RE: RV-List: FAB |
I used red RTV high temp silicon from NAPA...about $5 for a standard size
caulk tube with a cap. I have various medical syringes around the shop (we
have a nurse in the family) which make excellent dispensers for the tube
since the caulk tube is somewhat bulky. Use the syringes without the
needle and use the original caps as a seal. The silicon can be put into a
small size and a larger size syringe and you will get an 1/8" & about a
1/4" bead respectively with very good quantity control. I caulked all
around the engine baffles, the carburetor mount plate, as chaff pads on my
SCAT tubing, and other uses as I did my FWF and still had about 25% of my
original supply left over after about a year of use and it all remained
fresh with no hardening as long as I capped the tube/syringes.
Dick DeCramer
Southern Minnesota
N500DD Rv6 Slider
0320 Sensenich FP
48 hrs. Flight time
> [Original Message]
> From: Bob C. <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com>
> To: ; ;
> Date: 5/27/2005 8:25:23 PM
> Subject: RV-List: FAB
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bob C. "
>
> I'm in the initial stages of fitting my Van's "Filtered Air Box" to my
> "O-360" engine with a Precision MA4-5 carburetor. Like for most of these
> carburetors, I had to cut a hole to allow the bowl drain to protrude into
> the "mount plate" (VA-131-C).
> My question is this: The above hole will allow "dirty air" to enter the
> "clean air part of the air box" unless you do something to seal it! What
> have others done to seal these cracks . . . or am I missing something??
> Thanks,
> Bob Christensen
> RV-8 N678RC - In SE Iowa . . . FWF, etc., etc.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jacob & Grace" <grizzlybear(at)klondiker.com> |
The plug is replaced with a flush plug, keep the hole to minimum size, and
seal with high temp silicone.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com>
Subject: RV8-List: FAB
>
> I'm in the initial stages of fitting my Van's "Filtered Air Box" to my
> "O-360" engine with a Precision MA4-5 carburetor. Like for most of these
> carburetors, I had to cut a hole to allow the bowl drain to protrude into
> the "mount plate" (VA-131-C).
> My question is this: The above hole will allow "dirty air" to enter the
> "clean air part of the air box" unless you do something to seal it! What
> have others done to seal these cracks . . . or am I missing something??
> Thanks,
> Bob Christensen
> RV-8 N678RC - In SE Iowa . . . FWF, etc., etc.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Dear builders,
I am already airborne since April 2003. I installed my own seats in my 8
and found out that there must be better solutions. Vans offers Oregon
Aero seats and there are as well completed seats from Classic Aero
Design.
Which of those seats are more comfortable? According the fotos, the
Classic Aero Design seats appear more wide than the Oregon Aero seats.
Opinions?
D-EBRV
RV8
45 hrs.
Stephan J.W. Servatius
Untere Hauptstr. 3
85461 Bockhorn
GERMANY
Tel. +49 8122 483 83
Fax. +49 8122 902 188
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Bob,
On my RV-6A project I sealed the area with red RTV, a suggestion from Van's
that was in the RV-6 builder's manual.
Have a nice weekend.
Stephen Soule
(watching the drizzle and fog in Vermont)
-----Original Message-----
I'm in the initial stages of fitting my Van's "Filtered Air Box" to my
"O-360" engine with a Precision MA4-5 carburetor. Like for most of these
carburetors, I had to cut a hole to allow the bowl drain to protrude into
the "mount plate" (VA-131-C). My question is this: The above hole will
allow "dirty air" to enter the "clean air part of the air box" unless you do
something to seal it! What have others done to seal these cracks . . . or am
I missing something?? Thanks, Bob Christensen RV-8 N678RC - In SE Iowa . .
. FWF, etc., etc.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | DONKEYVET(at)aol.com |
Stephan,
I can't comment on how the Oregon Aero seats feel on long flights because my
plane is not flying yet. I can say that they are beautiful and very
comfortable to sit in at least for a short time. I was very impressed with the
workmanship and design of these seats when they arrived. The front seat back has
an
internal frame and it looks very nice. They sit high in the cockpit and come with
adjustable spacers for the rear seat occupant. I bet they are very nice for
the long flights. I'll let you know when it is flying which will be hopefully
soon!
Dennis Flosi, El Paso, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Joel Harding <cajole76(at)ispwest.com> |
Stephan,
I can't give you a comparison between the two, but I have the Classic
seats, and I'm very satisfied with the comfort as well as the looks.
Joel Harding
On May 28, 2005, at 1:41 AM, romeo.victor@t-online.de wrote:
> <romeo.victor@t-online.de>
>
> Dear builders,
>
> I am already airborne since April 2003. I installed my own seats in
> my 8
> and found out that there must be better solutions. Vans offers Oregon
> Aero seats and there are as well completed seats from Classic Aero
> Design.
> Which of those seats are more comfortable? According the fotos, the
> Classic Aero Design seats appear more wide than the Oregon Aero seats.
>
> Opinions?
>
>
> D-EBRV
> RV8
> 45 hrs.
> Stephan J.W. Servatius
> Untere Hauptstr. 3
> 85461 Bockhorn
> GERMANY
> Tel. +49 8122 483 83
> Fax. +49 8122 902 188
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | RV-8 project FOR SALE |
From: | "Textor, Jack" <jtextor(at)thepalmergroup.com> |
Good morning all,
For those that expressed interest in purchasing my RV-8 project, I have
updated some pictures and information on our web site at
www.textorfamily.com <http://www.textorfamily.com/> . Time and $$
dictate the sale. Excellent workmanship throughout. Project includes
RV-8 wing and empennage kits. Empennage, ailerons and flaps are
complete except fiberglass. Both tanks are complete. The right wing is
a quick build stage, ready to close. The left wing is jigged and ready
to rivet. This project is essentially at the "quick build stage and can
be purchased at below current kit prices. For more complete details
please check our web site.
Thanks!
Jack Textor
Des Moines, IA
515-225-7000 work
515-277-4173
________________________________________________________________________________
RV-8 list RV List
From: | Ed OConnor <Edwardoconnor(at)mac.com> |
Subject: | Advance Angle of Attack (Old PSS System) |
For those of you who have already installed the PSS system on your
RV-8, the manual states to install the wing ports 12 inches from the
leading edge, which is 6 inches from the trailing edge of the wing skin
break line. The instructions say to maintain the same % cord for top
and bottom. Anybody, whose system is working, how far from the aft
skin edge of the skin is the lower port. Is it also 6 inches? Not
sure this is the same cord % as measured that way. I think measuring
from the aft edge of the skin line is easier then figuring from a line
from the leading edge. But maybe its not that critical. Also, how
critical is the #60 drill being centered on the piece mounted on the
inner wing skin?
I read the archives and understand it is a straight line from the
leading edge if you use that method of locating the port. Just looking
for an easier method then finding 12 inches from the leading edge
since that will require finding a 90 degree line from the cord at the
leading edge.
RV-8 N366RV. Panama City FL
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "George Inman" <ghinman(at)mts.net> |
Subject: | Engine thrustline |
How close does the engine thrustline have
to match the cabin longerons?
My engine thrustline is about one degree downward
compared to the cabin longerons.
If it was one degree upward I would not worry about
it since the engine might sag that much.
Is there anyone flying with one degree down.?
GEORGE H. INMAN
ghinman(at)mts.net
CELL 204 799 7062
HOME 204 287 8334
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Esten Spears" <ewspears(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: Engine thrustline |
George,
Down thrust is a GOOD THING! It is designed into many airplanes. Having
some Downthrust minimizes the Pitch Change with Power Level Changes. I have
2 Degrees Down and 2 Degrees Right Thrust.
Esten Spears, RV8A, 80922, N922ES, Leeward Air Ranch, Ocala, FL - FWF
----- Original Message -----
From: "George Inman" <ghinman(at)mts.net>
Subject: RV8-List: Engine thrustline
>
> How close does the engine thrustline have
> to match the cabin longerons?
> My engine thrustline is about one degree downward
> compared to the cabin longerons.
> If it was one degree upward I would not worry about
> it since the engine might sag that much.
> Is there anyone flying with one degree down.?
>
> GEORGE H. INMAN
> ghinman(at)mts.net
> CELL 204 799 7062
> HOME 204 287 8334
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
I've been staring at my canopy for a couple of days, and
one thing that does not seem too clear. The rear part of
my canopy frame sticks up about 4 inches, and in the
instructions it says to bend it down to be about
1/2" - 5/8", IIRC.
This seems like a lot of bending. Has anyone else had
to bend the frame that much? Is there a reason that
we want the rear part of the frame so low?
Thanks,
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Crunkleton" <crunk12(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Re: Canopy frame |
Mickey,
You need to get the frame down so that the skirt/plexiglass will attach
properly. Yeah, I had to do quite a bit of bending on mine to get it to fit
right. 4130 is quite springy, so some over-bending will be in order. Make a
lot of small changes rather than one large one, and after much fretting,
worrying and bending it will finally fit quite nicely. It's also good that
you're doing this during the summer months....the high temperatures help to
prevent the canopy from cracking during the fitting/installing process.
Good luck.
Jim Crunkleton
N802JD
PS-If you're wondering about the "JD", my wife's name is Donna---yeah, I
know how this works! :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "jordan" <cjordan(at)telus.net> |
Subject: | Re: Canopy frame |
Hi Mickey,
I am at the same stage and yes I have had to bend the rear frame of the
canopy down about 3.5-4inches.
I did it by laying a couple of bits of wood down on the floor covered with
cloth and shimmed at an angle to match the frame which I wedged under the
lip of my work bench.I then pushed down on the other end of the frame and
bit by bit bent it to the proper dimension.
I must say I was very nervous about the amount of pressure I had to apply
but I just took it slow and kept applying more pressure and kept measuring
until I was applying enough pressure to see a movement occur.Eventually I
got the result I needed.
Good luck, call me or email me if you need more info.
Colin in Kelowna.
250-764-4147.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject: RV8-List: Canopy frame
>
> I've been staring at my canopy for a couple of days, and
> one thing that does not seem too clear. The rear part of
> my canopy frame sticks up about 4 inches, and in the
> instructions it says to bend it down to be about
> 1/2" - 5/8", IIRC.
>
> This seems like a lot of bending. Has anyone else had
> to bend the frame that much? Is there a reason that
> we want the rear part of the frame so low?
>
> Thanks,
> Mickey
> --
> Mickey Coggins
> http://www.rv8.ch/
> #82007 Wiring
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Don McNamara" <N8RV(at)gte.net> |
"RV-8 List \(Matronics\)"
Gang, I have it on good authority that today is Danny King's birthday. He's shared
a LOT with the rest of us builders and has given freely of his knowledge
and his time.
Take a minute to send him a birthday greeting. He's REALLY old, too ...
-- Don McNamara
N8RV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
>
>Gang, I have it on good authority that today is Danny King's birthday.
>He's shared a LOT with the rest of us builders and has given freely of his
>knowledge and his time.
>
>Take a minute to send him a birthday greeting. He's REALLY old, too ...
>
>-- Don McNamara
> N8RV
>
Hey hey hey!! I just had a birthday too! (Okay, in April.)
But I'm not NEARLY as old as Danny. Ohmigod no. I think they're placing
Danny's last 727 flown next to George Washington's teeth in the Smithsonian.
Happy birthday, ole boy!
High time Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | [ Dave Rossiter ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Dave Rossiter
Lists: Rocket-List,RV-List,RV4-List,RV8-List
Subject: Dave Rossiter's F1 Rocket
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/daverossiter717@hotmail.com.06.18.2005/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | [ Henry Hore ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Henry Hore <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Lists: RV-List,RV6-List,RV7-List,RV8-List,RV9-List
Subject: Leveling RV6-A Fuselage
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com.06.18.2005/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jim Bean <jim-bean(at)att.net> |
Subject: | Transition Training |
Does anyone know how to reach the instructor who gives RV transition
training in the Conn/NY area? I have finished my -8 and am chicken to
December 05, 2004 - June 23, 2005
RV8-Archive.digest.vol-ah