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RV8-Archive.digest.vol-ah
December 05, 2004 - June 23, 2005

>that is actually what my problem is?? > >Greg > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rodney Daulton >To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV8-List: Van's electric tachometer > > >RV8 Friends....I have been having lots of problems with the Van's 2 1/4 >in electric tachometer. I have had two sender failures. What if any >has been your experience with these tachometers. Thanks very >much....Rod Daulton > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Samjjake(at)cs.com
Date: Dec 05, 2004
Subject: Van's electric tach
We had a problem with Van's 2 1/4" electric tach, starting with app. 30 hrs on the aircraft. Van's did replace the tach generator, but same problem emerged after app. 5 hrs.The needle would just flop around intermittently or drop to zero. The fix was to ground the shield on the wire bundle from the tach generator to the tach. (Van's instructions for the tach say it is not necessary to ground the shield) Steady as a rock ever since. Sam RV-8 N708J ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 06, 2004
From: Rodney Daulton <farmerrd(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Van's electric tachometer
Jonathan Weiswasser wrote: Interesting....I had a failure at about 30h. Have 35h on the new one without problem. how many hours did you get out of each of your senders before they failed? Jon Weiswasser N898JW RV-8 Greg Hunsicker wrote: > >I also have a Vans 2 1/4 electric tach that drops out on long hauls. I >purchased a new tach but have not installed it yet. I am unfamiliar >with what the sender looks like or where it might be located. I suppose >that is actually what my problem is?? > >Greg > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rodney Daulton >To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV8-List: Van's electric tachometer > > >RV8 Friends....I have been having lots of problems with the Van's 2 1/4 >in electric tachometer. I have had two sender failures. What if any >has been your experience with these tachometers. Thanks very >much....Rod Daulton Jon....thanks for your reply. I was so dissapointed with the tack from Van's that I bought a Electronics International tack. I hope it solves my problem....Rod > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: Where to put the front fresh air vent
Date: Dec 07, 2004
Hey RV-8 builders and fliers, Where are you putting or where did you put your front-seat fresh air vent? I am thinking of putting it in the panel, all the way to the left, just above the manual trim knob. Will use Van's size large black plastic eyeball vent. Steve Soule Swanton, Vermont Where to put the front fresh air vent Hey RV-8 builders and fliers, Where are you putting or where did you put your front-seat fresh air vent? I am thinking of putting it in the panel, all the way to the left, just above the manual trim knob. Will use Van's size large black plastic eyeball vent. Steve Soule Swanton, Vermont ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 07, 2004
Subject: Fuel pump/filter alternatives
From: Ted P Utley <tpu2(at)juno.com>
I see numerous electric fuel pumps from the auto world that appear to meet the demands of the injected Bendix/Lyc, as well as fuel filters that have stainless steel or sintered bronze elements that are in the 85 to 100 micron range. I find very little in the archives about reasons to spend the extra $200 or so on AFP. Anyone with experience using alternative pumps/filters, please let me know what I'm missing. Thanks > > Ted Utley > 8A ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Where to put the front fresh air vent
From: "Greg V. Miller" <gvm3(at)cableone.net>
Date: Dec 09, 2004
I put it just under the left side panel, mounted to the left gear box. Doesn't take up panel space and has a straight tube to the intake duct. > > Hey RV-8 builders and fliers, > > Where are you putting or where did you put your front-seat fresh air vent? I > am thinking of putting it in the panel, all the way to the left, just above > the manual trim knob. Will use Van's size large black plastic eyeball vent. > > Steve Soule > Swanton, Vermont > > > > > > Where to put the front fresh air vent > > > Hey RV-8 builders and fliers, > > > Where are you putting or where did you put your front-seat fresh air vent? I am thinking of putting it in the panel, all the way to the left, just above the manual trim knob. Will use Van's size large black plastic eyeball vent. > > > Steve Soule > > Swanton, Vermont > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: luckymacy(at)comcast.net (lucky)
Subject: Re: Where to put the front fresh air vent
Date: Dec 10, 2004
I hope to shoe horn mine in the left subpanel but a friend put his on the flange of the landing gear cross brace. Allows a bit more direct air to your face than if you were to hang it off of the gear box, according to him. I have a picture if you want to see it. Lucky -------------- Original message -------------- > > I put it just under the left side panel, mounted to the left gear box. > Doesn't take up panel space and has a straight tube to the intake duct. > > > > > > Hey RV-8 builders and fliers, > > > > Where are you putting or where did you put your front-seat fresh air vent? I > > am thinking of putting it in the panel, all the way to the left, just above > > the manual trim knob. Will use Van's size large black plastic eyeball vent. > > > > Steve Soule > > Swanton, Vermont > > > > > > > > > > > > Where to put the front fresh air vent > > > > > > Hey RV-8 builders and fliers, > > > > > > Where are you putting or where did you put your front-seat fresh air vent? I > am thinking of putting it in the panel, all the way to the left, just above the > manual trim knob. Will use Van's size large black plastic eyeball vent. > > > > > > Steve Soule > > > > Swanton, Vermont > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I hope to shoe horn mine in the left subpanel but a friend put his on the flange of the landing gear cross brace. Allows a bit more direct air to your face than if you were to hang it off of the gear box, according to him. I have a picture if youwant to see it. Lucky -------------- Original message -------------- -- RV8-List message posted by: "Greg V. Miller" I put it just under the left side panel, mounted to the left gear box. Doesn't take up panel space and has a straight tube to the intake duct. -- RV8-List message posted by: "Stephen J. Soule" Hey RV-8 builders and fliers, Where are you putting or where did you put your front-seat fresh air vent? I am thinking of putting it in the panel, all the way to the left, just above the manual trim knob. Will use Van's size large black plastic eyeball vent. Steve Soule Swanton, Vermont Where to put the front fresh air vent Hey RV-8 builders and fliers, Where are you putting or where did you put your front-seat fresh air vent? I am thinking of putting it in the panel, all the way to the left, just above the manual trim knob. Will use Van's size large black plastic eyeball vent. Steve Soule Swanton, Vermont on the Matronics Forums. ================================================= ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: Where to put the front fresh air vent
Date: Dec 10, 2004
I decided to put the vent in the left panel location, too. Looks good so far, but the panel isn't in the airplane yet. I didn't want to put it on the cross brace or landing gear box because I thought it would hit it with my leg getting in and out of the cockpit. Steve -----Original Message----- I hope to shoe horn mine in the left subpanel but a friend put his on the flange of the landing gear cross brace. Allows a bit more direct air to your face than if you were to hang it off of the gear box, according to him. I have a picture if you want to see it. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kevin Shannon" <kshannon(at)seanet.com>
Subject: sheared wingtip lighting
Date: Dec 10, 2004
Kevin Shannon Superintendent Severson Construction, LLC Does anyone know if there is an option available anywhere for recessed wingtip lighting in the sheared type wingtips? Kevin Shannon RV-8 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 10, 2004
Subject: Re: sheared wingtip lighting
In a message dated 12/10/04 1:54:20 PM Eastern Standard Time, kshannon(at)seanet.com writes: > Does anyone know if there is an option available anywhere for recessed > wingtip lighting in the sheared type wingtips? > > Kevin Shannon > RV-8 > What lights are you wanting to install? Landing Lights ? Nav Lights? Strobes? There is a kit that is LED nav with recessed Landing lights and strobes. You can do one or the other or all three in the tip. www.CreativAir.com Having said this I just got 2 Duckworth Landing lights from Vans ($75ea) with the Whelen Strobe/Nav kit..... RV-4 RV-8 QB....wings Sal Capra Lakeland, FL. My Home Page ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kevin Shannon" <kshannon(at)seanet.com>
Subject: sheared wingtip lighting
Date: Dec 10, 2004
I should have been more specific, it is the recess and clear plastic lens itself in sheared style wingtips I am looking for, all the sheared style tips I have seen have the external type lighting on them, and the recess/lens kit Vans sells is for the flat style tips, not the "sheared" style. Kevin Shannon -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com Subject: Re: RV8-List: sheared wingtip lighting In a message dated 12/10/04 1:54:20 PM Eastern Standard Time, kshannon(at)seanet.com writes: > Does anyone know if there is an option available anywhere for recessed > wingtip lighting in the sheared type wingtips? > > Kevin Shannon > RV-8 > What lights are you wanting to install? Landing Lights ? Nav Lights? Strobes? There is a kit that is LED nav with recessed Landing lights and strobes. You can do one or the other or all three in the tip. www.CreativAir.com Having said this I just got 2 Duckworth Landing lights from Vans ($75ea) with the Whelen Strobe/Nav kit..... RV-4 RV-8 QB....wings Sal Capra Lakeland, FL. My Home Page ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Huft" <rv8(at)lazy8.net>
Subject: sheared wingtip lighting
Date: Dec 11, 2004
Tracy Saylor's daughter makes a kit for this. If you call Massey Aircraft, who makes the sheared tips, they have the contact info. John -----Original Message----- From: Kevin Shannon [mailto:kshannon(at)seanet.com] Subject: RE: RV8-List: sheared wingtip lighting I should have been more specific, it is the recess and clear plastic lens itself in sheared style wingtips I am looking for, all the sheared style tips I have seen have the external type lighting on them, and the recess/lens kit Vans sells is for the flat style tips, not the "sheared" style. Kevin Shannon -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com Subject: Re: RV8-List: sheared wingtip lighting In a message dated 12/10/04 1:54:20 PM Eastern Standard Time, kshannon(at)seanet.com writes: > Does anyone know if there is an option available anywhere for recessed > wingtip lighting in the sheared type wingtips? > > Kevin Shannon > RV-8 > What lights are you wanting to install? Landing Lights ? Nav Lights? Strobes? There is a kit that is LED nav with recessed Landing lights and strobes. You can do one or the other or all three in the tip. www.CreativAir.com Having said this I just got 2 Duckworth Landing lights from Vans ($75ea) with the Whelen Strobe/Nav kit..... RV-4 RV-8 QB....wings Sal Capra Lakeland, FL. My Home Page ________________________________________________________________________________
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
Subject: sheared wingtip lighting
Date: Dec 11, 2004
The sheared wing tips supplied by Vans for my RV8 are shipped with a clear lens which covers a recess for putting in strobe and nav lights. Just in case this might help you. Michle RV8 Wings > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list- > server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Shannon > Sent: Friday, December 10, 2004 10:35 PM > To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RE: RV8-List: sheared wingtip lighting > > > I should have been more specific, it is the recess and clear plastic > lens itself in sheared style wingtips I am looking for, all the sheared > style tips I have seen have the external type lighting on them, and the > recess/lens kit Vans sells is for the flat style tips, not the "sheared" > style. > > Kevin Shannon > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of > CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com > To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV8-List: sheared wingtip lighting > > > In a message dated 12/10/04 1:54:20 PM Eastern Standard Time, > kshannon(at)seanet.com writes: > > > > Does anyone know if there is an option available anywhere for recessed > > wingtip lighting in the sheared type wingtips? > > > > Kevin Shannon > > RV-8 > > > > What lights are you wanting to install? > > Landing Lights ? > Nav Lights? > Strobes? > > There is a kit that is LED nav with recessed Landing lights and strobes. > You can do one or the other or all three in the tip. > www.CreativAir.com > > > Having said this I just got 2 Duckworth Landing lights from Vans ($75ea) > with the Whelen Strobe/Nav kit..... > > > RV-4 > RV-8 QB....wings > > Sal Capra > Lakeland, FL. > My Home Page > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg@itmack" <greg(at)itmack.com>
Subject: flaps questions
Date: Dec 12, 2004
Hi all, I'm building my flaps now and I have a few questions. 1. Has anyone got some pictures of the FL406 assembly. I can't quite figure it out from the drawings particularly how the FL-406C fits. 2. How does the flap control arm eventually fit to the flap. I have seen drawings for the RV7 and they involve a nutplate on the inboard FL-404 rib and the Orndorff tapes show the same but my plans don't mention it. 3. Is the FL-406B prefabricated at all, I don't have any 0.125 sheet. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PPlous(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 13, 2004
Subject: Floor insulation
Anyone using any insulation under the 830/831 floor before riveting the thing down? If so, what type? Thanks P2 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 13, 2004
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: Floor insulation
The best thing to do is to make it air tight so you do not have cold drafts blowing through. Block the read spar attach, front spars, also boots on the aileron tubes. This will make a bigger difference IMHO. > >Anyone using any insulation under the 830/831 floor before riveting the >thing down? If so, what type? > >Thanks >P2 > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Vince Himsl" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com>
Subject: Floor insulation
Date: Dec 14, 2004
I used super sound proofing (3/8 I think) from Aircraft Spruce. There is an article floating around discusing sound proofing of aircraft. Some say its great, some say that they don't notice difference. With 'problems getting enough heat' a constant and recurring thread on the list, I decided to go ahead anyway. Aircraft Spruce has a section on sound proofing aircraft products. Regards, Vince Himsl RV8 - VSB Finish -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of PPlous(at)aol.com Subject: RV8-List: Floor insulation Anyone using any insulation under the 830/831 floor before riveting the thing down? If so, what type? Thanks P2 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kevin Shannon" <kshannon(at)seanet.com>
Subject: Floor insulation
Date: Dec 14, 2004
I think better airflow through the cabin is the answer. This can be done by putting a slight suction in the tail cone. A couple of small half round shapes laminated to the belly skin with holes drilled on the aft side will provide a little negative pressure and also act as a drain. I did this on my 9A and it worked well. Kevin Shannon RV8-QB -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vince Himsl Subject: RE: RV8-List: Floor insulation I used super sound proofing (3/8 I think) from Aircraft Spruce. There is an article floating around discusing sound proofing of aircraft. Some say its great, some say that they don't notice difference. With 'problems getting enough heat' a constant and recurring thread on the list, I decided to go ahead anyway. Aircraft Spruce has a section on sound proofing aircraft products. Regards, Vince Himsl RV8 - VSB Finish ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 14, 2004
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Floor insulation
In cold weather the last thing you want is non heated airflow through the cabin. The coldest I have flown is 12F, the drafts were very annoying. Oh, and trust me, you dont really notice the drafts until it gets cold out, then you wonder were all that air is coming from. Giving the air an "out" will make for even more drafts. Sealing up the openings in and around the cockpit to keep the air out is were I put my money. > >I think better airflow through the cabin is the answer. This can be done >by putting a slight suction in the tail cone. A couple of small half >round shapes laminated to the belly skin with holes drilled on the aft >side will provide a little negative pressure and also act as a drain. I >did this on my 9A and it worked well. > >Kevin Shannon >RV8-QB > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vince Himsl >To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RE: RV8-List: Floor insulation > > >I used super sound proofing (3/8 I think) from Aircraft Spruce. There is >an article floating around discusing sound >proofing of aircraft. Some say its great, some say that they don't >notice difference. With 'problems getting enough heat' a >constant and recurring thread on the list, I decided to go ahead anyway. > >Aircraft Spruce has a section on sound proofing aircraft products. > >Regards, > >Vince Himsl >RV8 - VSB Finish > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "tpu2(at)juno.com" <tpu2(at)juno.com>
Date: Dec 14, 2004
Subject: Floor insulation
My plan for addl heat is to use the $80 seat heaters on front and rear. Not sure if DJ, Becky or Aeroclassics would make it fit while sewing, but its an easy install either way. My plan for sound is the best ANR I can get. Trying to make an RV quiet enough to fly without headphones is impossible, and if you have to put them on, then reducing the noise is best left to ANR. .02 Ted Utley 8A Finishing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kevin Shannon" <kshannon(at)seanet.com>
Subject: Floor insulation
Date: Dec 14, 2004
I agree completely, you want "heated" air flowing through the cabin. If the cabin area is completely sealed, the warm air can not enter and circulate easily. My point is, seal all openings where cold air can enter, but give the static air inside the cabin a place to go, like out the tail -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Bilinski Subject: RE: RV8-List: Floor insulation <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com> In cold weather the last thing you want is non heated airflow through the cabin. The coldest I have flown is 12F, the drafts were very annoying. Oh, and trust me, you dont really notice the drafts until it gets cold out, then you wonder were all that air is coming from. Giving the air an "out" will make for even more drafts. Sealing up the openings in and around the cockpit to keep the air out is were I put my money. > >I think better airflow through the cabin is the answer. This can be done >by putting a slight suction in the tail cone. A couple of small half >round shapes laminated to the belly skin with holes drilled on the aft >side will provide a little negative pressure and also act as a drain. I >did this on my 9A and it worked well. > >Kevin Shannon >RV8-QB > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Airseal- lower cowl to baffle inlet floor
Date: Dec 15, 2004
Builders, What is your successful method, each time when installing the finished lower cowl with its riveted-on Airseals, getting the extended Airseals up through the specified 3/8" gaps and onto the top side of the baffle inlet floors? Am I missing something? (See pages 4 & 5 for parts 2 and 10, Right @ Left Front Air Inlet Floor in Van's Cowl Baffle Kit - Installation Guide.) Thanks, Jack, RV-8 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Philippjw54(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 15, 2004
Subject: Re: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 12/11/04
To Greg concerning the FL406 assembly, If you study the plans closely you will see that there are 3 pieces to this assembly. ( FL 406A, B & C. On plans drawing 15 ( Flap ) the veiw called "root end veiw" the dimensions for the FL406B are called out. It is made from 2024 T3 1/8TH INCH FLAT PLATE STOCK. The dimensions are 5 13/16ths x 3 inches tappered to the dimensions on the print. Careful study of the other 2 pieces will reveal those dimensions. I hope this helps. You can email me directly at philippjw54(at)aol.com if you need more help. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Philippjw54(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 16, 2004
Subject: RV-4 Flap Question From Greg
Also Greg you will notice that on the same flap drawing (drawing plans # 15 ) the top isometric view will show how the completed F406 assembly looks when attached to the forward face of the flap spar. Remember to cut the 1/4" taper on the inboard end of each FL403 flap spar. The 1/4" hole drilled on the FL 406B is where the rod end bearing is attached for flap operation. Building these RV airplanes is such a rewarding experience. Just think of it this way, your fun has just started. I really love building mine and don't know what I'll do after completion. I suppose I just have to fly it. Oh well. Things could be worse. I cut the lightening holes in the flap spars with a 1"1/4 Greenlee knockout punch found at any electrical supply house. Rivet edge distance and rivet spacing are one of the most important factors for structural integrity in the construction of aircraft. AC 43.13-1A & 2A, Accecptical Methods, Techniques & Practices, is an FAA engineering reference manual with a great deal of information covering all aspects of aircraft construction. This book can be found in the Aircraft Spruce & Specialties catalog (part #13-11350 $18.95). Two other books also found in Aircraft Spruce are (Standard Aircraft Handbook part # 13-11400 $23.95 & Aircraft Sheet Metal part # 13-19205 $18.95. Also all the books by the late Tony Bingelis are a great investment part # 13-13500 $73.95. Keep on building and one day you will be rewarded with a fantastic plane. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg@itmack" <greg(at)itmack.com>
Subject: Re: RV-4 Flap Question From Greg
Date: Dec 16, 2004
As soon as I read your email I took off to the shed to check the 1/4" taper that I forgot about, but it seems that my spar has the taper already cut off. I finished one of the FL406 assemblies today, it took me so long to build it because I didn't really understand what I was trying to build until I saw the finished assembly. Regards Greg, starting the fuse soon. > > Also Greg you will notice that on the same flap drawing (drawing plans # 15 ) > the top isometric view will show how the completed F406 assembly looks when > attached to the forward face of the flap spar. Remember to cut the 1/4" taper > on the inboard end of each FL403 flap spar. The 1/4" hole drilled on the FL > 406B is where the rod end bearing is attached for flap operation. Building these > RV airplanes is such a rewarding experience. Just think of it this way, your > fun has just started. I really love building mine and don't know what I'll do > after completion. I suppose I just have to fly it. Oh well. Things could be > worse. I cut the lightening holes in the flap spars with a 1"1/4 Greenlee > knockout punch found at any electrical supply house. Rivet edge distance and rivet > spacing are one of the most important factors for structural integrity in the > construction of aircraft. AC 43.13-1A & 2A, Accecptical Methods, Techniques & > Practices, is an FAA engineering reference manual with a great deal of > information covering all aspects of aircraft construction. This book can be found in > the Aircraft Spruce & Specialties catalog (part #13-11350 $18.95). Two other > books also found in Aircraft Spruce are (Standard Aircraft Handbook part # > 13-11400 $23.95 & Aircraft Sheet Metal part # 13-19205 $18.95. Also all the books > by the late Tony Bingelis are a great investment part # 13-13500 $73.95. Keep > on building and one day you will be rewarded with a fantastic plane. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Philippjw54(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 17, 2004
Subject: Re: RV-4 Flap Question From Greg
Hi Greg, I'm glad to hear that you completed the F 406 assembly. The plans provided by vans for the RV-4 are loaded with information. Careful study of the plans is essential for understanding how to manufacture each component we make. Even if we do make a mistake all we need do is to make a new part. The wing needs careful attention when constructing. This is the heart of the plane. Absolutely no mistakes are acceptable. No compromises. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 18, 2004
Subject: [ Jim Jewell ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: Jim Jewell Subject: RV6-A lower cowl engine air intake seal http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/jjewell@telus.net.12.18.2004/index.html o Main Photo Share Index http://www.matronics.com/photoshare o Submitting a Photo Share If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the following information along with your email message and files: 1) Email List or Lists that they are related to: 2) Your Full Name: 3) Your Email Address: 4) One line Subject description: 5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic: 6) One-line Description of each photo or file: Email the information above and your files and photos to: pictures(at)matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: KLN-90A pinout needed
Date: Dec 20, 2004
Does anyone have a KLN-90A pinout they could send me by fax or scanned image by email? I'll take an installation manual if anyone has a spare for sale. Stephen Soule Swanton, Vermont KLN-90A pinout needed Does anyone have a KLN-90A pinout they could send me by fax or scanned image by email? I'll take an installation manual if anyone has a spare for sale. Stephen Soule Swanton, Vermont ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bruce Niles" <bniles(at)cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Innodyn Turbine
Date: Dec 25, 2004
I'm looking into putting the 205 HP model in my RV-8. If anyone has firsthand knowledge of this installation, I would like some feedback. Thanks ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Maureen & Bob Christensen" <mchriste(at)danvilletelco.net>
Subject: Re: Innodyn Turbine
Date: Dec 25, 2004
I don't believe they've delivered any to anyone . . . still testing and trying to come up with a FWF package. You are way out on the bleading edge . . . but what fun if you can make it work!!! Regards, Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bruce Niles" <bniles(at)cfl.rr.com> Subject: RV8-List: Innodyn Turbine > > I'm looking into putting the 205 HP model in my RV-8. If anyone has firsthand knowledge of this installation, I would like some feedback. Thanks > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wayne R. Couture" <commando@cox-internet.com>
Subject: Re: Innodyn Turbine
Date: Dec 28, 2004
I'd be real careful about there fuel consumption claims. Wayne ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bruce Niles" <bniles(at)cfl.rr.com> Subject: RV8-List: Innodyn Turbine > > I'm looking into putting the 205 HP model in my RV-8. If anyone has firsthand knowledge of this installation, I would like some feedback. Thanks > > > -- > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. > > -- Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: Magneto drive gear - Lightspeed Ignition questions
Date: Dec 29, 2004
Hello fellow Listers, I'm looking into buying a Lightspeed Plasma II Plus ignition for my flying RV-6A. According the website I will need to get a gear for the Hall effect module that goes into the hole in the Lycoming case vacated by the magneto it will replace. The manufacturer of the Lightspeed system does not supply the gear and suggests that I get it from Lycoming, Superior or a magneto overhauler. During construction of the RV-6A (and now my RV-8) I have found that scrounging missing parts can hold up the project for months. I have never had to get a magneto gear. Have any of you? Where do you get such a thing? What would I except to pay for it? I can't use the gear from one of the mags I will remove because both of my mags have impulse couplings and the Lightspeed module requires a non-impulse gear. The next question will be - Once I have the gear, how do I get it to stick to the Hall effect module? Chewing gum? If anyone has real world experience, I'm all ears (eyes.) Also, I recall hearing that Lightspeed had a competitor - one Joel Rose. I see references to his ignition system in the archives, but no URL for his website. Anyone know what it is? Does his system come ready to bolt on, or are there items that have to be chased down in order to install the system? Stephen Soule Swanton, Vermont RV-6A N227RV flying (270 hours!) RV-8 N222SZ under construction Magneto drive gear - Lightspeed Ignition questions Hello fellow Listers, I'm looking into buying a Lightspeed Plasma II Plus ignition for my flying RV-6A. According the website I will need to get a gear for the Hall effect module that goes into the hole in the Lycoming case vacated by the magneto it will replace. The manufacturer of the Lightspeed system does not supply the gear and suggests that I get it from Lycoming, Superior or a magneto overhauler. During construction of the RV-6A (and now my RV-8) I have found that scrounging missing parts can hold up the project for months. I have never had to get a magneto gear. Have any of you? Where do you get such a thing? What would I except to pay for it? I can't use the gear from one of the mags I will remove because both of my mags have impulse couplings and the Lightspeed module requires a non-impulse gear. The next question will be - Once I have the gear, how do I get it to stick to the Hall effect module? Chewing gum? If anyone has real world experience, I'm all ears (eyes.) Also, I recall hearing that Lightspeed had a competitor - one Joel Rose. I see references to his ignition system in the archives, but no URL for his website. Anyone know what it is? Does his system come ready to bolt on, or are there items that have to be chased down in order to install the system? Stephen Soule Swanton, Vermont RV-6A N227RV flying (270 hours!) RV-8 N222SZ under construction ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Magneto drive gear - Lightspeed Ignition questions
Date: Dec 29, 2004
>Hello fellow Listers, > >I'm looking into buying a Lightspeed Plasma II Plus ignition for my flying >RV-6A. According the website I will need to get a gear for the Hall effect >module that goes into the hole in the Lycoming case vacated by the magneto >it will replace. > >The manufacturer of the Lightspeed system does not supply the gear and >suggests that I get it from Lycoming, Superior or a magneto overhauler. > >During construction of the RV-6A (and now my RV-8) I have found that >scrounging missing parts can hold up the project for months. I have never >had to get a magneto gear. Have any of you? Where do you get such a thing? >What would I except to pay for it? > >I can't use the gear from one of the mags I will remove because both of my >mags have impulse couplings and the Lightspeed module requires a >non-impulse >gear. > >The next question will be - Once I have the gear, how do I get it to stick >to the Hall effect module? Chewing gum? If anyone has real world >experience, >I'm all ears (eyes.) It simply attaches to the shaft with a nut. A woodruff key keeps the gear from ever spinning freely on the shaft. I'm going from memory here so bear with me. It really is a neat setup and very easy to do. > >Also, I recall hearing that Lightspeed had a competitor - one Joel Rose. I >see references to his ignition system in the archives, but no URL for his >website. Anyone know what it is? Does his system come ready to bolt on, or >are there items that have to be chased down in order to install the system? It's Jeff Rose. He also makes an electronic ignition that is very good. Lightspeed is a bit more prominent on the web but I've heard of no major issues with either system. I've been totally satisfied with the LIghtspeed for about three years on my RV8. Sorry I can't offer much on the sourcing of the mag gear. I'd go straight to the mag manufacturer, maybe Superior Air Parts, or even the engine builders...Bart Lalonde at Aerosport, Mattituck, etc. > Brian Denk RV8 N94BD RV10 '51 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Lenleg(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 29, 2004
Subject: Re: Magneto drive gear - Lightspeed Ignition questions
In a message dated 12/29/2004 3:05:42 PM Eastern Standard Time, SSoule(at)pfclaw.com writes: The next question will be - Once I have the gear, how do I get it to stick to the Hall effect module? Chewing gum? If anyone has real world experience, I'm all ears (eyes.) Also, I recall hearing that Lightspeed had a competitor - one Joel Rose. I see references to his ignition system in the archives, but no URL for his website. Anyone know what it is? Does his system come ready to bolt on, or are there items that have to be chased down in order to install the system? Stephen Soule Swanton, Vermont Jeff Rose is not selling his system anymore ... he is supporting it for a while. Len ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 29, 2004
From: Jim Bean <jim-bean(at)att.net>
Subject: Re: Magneto drive gear - Lightspeed Ignition questions
Steve, The drive gear and the impulse coupler are separate assemblies on the magnito. You can separate the drive gear from the impulse coupler. Most engines have the magnito install into a spacer which is the same depth as the impulse coupler. Romove the impulse coupler and the spacer and the gear ends up in at the same depth. This makes it easy for the manufacturer to have one magnito without an impulse coupler. The gear you have is probably usable on the hall effect module. If your engine has a spacer behind the magnito you would have to remove it before installing the hall effect module. I prefer the pickup ring on the front of the engine. It dosn't require maintenance which the hall effect module does. Also it leaves the magnito intact as either a spare or to sell. It does require installing two timy magnets in the ring gear but Lightspeed will do it for a small fee. Jim Bean RV-8 almost done. Stephen J. Soule wrote: > > Hello fellow Listers, > > I'm looking into buying a Lightspeed Plasma II Plus ignition for my flying > RV-6A. According the website I will need to get a gear for the Hall effect > module that goes into the hole in the Lycoming case vacated by the magneto > it will replace. > > The manufacturer of the Lightspeed system does not supply the gear and > suggests that I get it from Lycoming, Superior or a magneto overhauler. > > During construction of the RV-6A (and now my RV-8) I have found that > scrounging missing parts can hold up the project for months. I have never > had to get a magneto gear. Have any of you? Where do you get such a thing? > What would I except to pay for it? > > I can't use the gear from one of the mags I will remove because both of my > mags have impulse couplings and the Lightspeed module requires a non-impulse > gear. > > The next question will be - Once I have the gear, how do I get it to stick > to the Hall effect module? Chewing gum? If anyone has real world experience, > I'm all ears (eyes.) > > Also, I recall hearing that Lightspeed had a competitor - one Joel Rose. I > see references to his ignition system in the archives, but no URL for his > website. Anyone know what it is? Does his system come ready to bolt on, or > are there items that have to be chased down in order to install the system? > > Stephen Soule > Swanton, Vermont > RV-6A N227RV flying (270 hours!) > RV-8 N222SZ under construction > > > > > > Magneto drive gear - Lightspeed Ignition questions > > > Hello fellow Listers, > > > I'm looking into buying a Lightspeed Plasma II Plus ignition for my flying RV-6A. According the website I will need to get a gear for the Hall effect module that goes into the hole in the Lycoming case vacated by the magneto it will replace. > > > The manufacturer of the Lightspeed system does not supply the gear and suggests that I get it from Lycoming, Superior or a magneto overhauler. > > > During construction of the RV-6A (and now my RV-8) I have found that scrounging missing parts can hold up the project for months. I have never had to get a magneto gear. Have any of you? Where do you get such a thing? What would I except to pay for it? > > > I can't use the gear from one of the mags I will remove because both of my mags have impulse couplings and the Lightspeed module requires a non-impulse gear. > > > The next question will be - Once I have the gear, how do I get it to stick to the Hall effect module? Chewing gum? If anyone has real world experience, I'm all ears (eyes.) > > > Also, I recall hearing that Lightspeed had a competitor - one Joel Rose. I see references to his ignition system in the archives, but no URL for his website. Anyone know what it is? Does his system come ready to bolt on, or are there items that have to be chased down in order to install the system? > > > Stephen Soule > > Swanton, Vermont > > RV-6A N227RV flying (270 hours!) > > RV-8 N222SZ under construction > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Alderman" <kenalder(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Innodyn Turbine
Date: Dec 30, 2004
A couple weeks ago, I had the opportunity to talk with an executive officer who had been associated with Innodyn people but is no longer involved. One of my many questons was about their fuel burn claim. He said it is very valid and the "secret" is a computer controlled delivery system that provides a precise, measured, amt of fuel for a given power setting - sort of like spurts rather than full fuel flow. Time will tell as it always does. My two pennies for what it's worth. What a boon for the HB industry if it comes to fruitation. Ken Alderman, wannabe RV-9A http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: Magneto drive gear - Lightspeed Ignition questions
Date: Dec 30, 2004
Len, Too bad - a little competition might be a good thing. I'm skeptical of the Lightspeed system in that it doesn't include a vital part (the non-impulse magneto gear) and the manufacturer cannot say with certainty where to get it. I makes me wonder what else might be missing when you get the $2,000 box ... The story of these projects is often "You pays yer money and you takes yer chances" to quote Popeye. I'm pretty tired of it. Have you ever tried to get assistance from the manufacturer when installing King or Narco avionics? No dice, even if you paid full price from an outfit like Aircraft Spruce a new-in-box item. Steve (rant, rant, rant) -----Original Message----- Jeff Rose is not selling his system anymore ... he is supporting it for a while. Len ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 30, 2004
Subject: Magneto drive gear - Lightspeed Ignition questions
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Don't forget the e-mag alternative. If I were doing it again, I would probably go that route. http://emagair.com - Larry Bowen, RV-8 w/ Rose ignition Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com Stephen J. Soule said: > > Len, > > Too bad - a little competition might be a good thing. I'm skeptical of the > Lightspeed system in that it doesn't include a vital part (the non-impulse > magneto gear) and the manufacturer cannot say with certainty where to get > it. I makes me wonder what else might be missing when you get the $2,000 > box > ... > > The story of these projects is often "You pays yer money and you takes yer > chances" to quote Popeye. I'm pretty tired of it. Have you ever tried to > get > assistance from the manufacturer when installing King or Narco avionics? > No > dice, even if you paid full price from an outfit like Aircraft Spruce a > new-in-box item. > > Steve (rant, rant, rant) > > -----Original Message----- > > > Jeff Rose is not selling his system anymore ... he is supporting it for a > while. > > Len > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: Magneto drive gear - Lightspeed Ignition questions
Date: Dec 30, 2004
Larry, Is the emag shipping? I'll check. Steve -----Original Message----- Don't forget the e-mag alternative. If I were doing it again, I would probably go that route. http://emagair.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 30, 2004
Subject: Magneto drive gear - Lightspeed Ignition questions
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Yes, I've heard others say they have taken delivery. - Larry Bowen Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com Stephen J. Soule said: > > Larry, > > Is the emag shipping? I'll check. > > Steve > > -----Original Message----- > > Don't forget the e-mag alternative. If I were doing it again, I would > probably go that route. > > http://emagair.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Lenleg(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 30, 2004
Subject: Re: Magneto drive gear - Lightspeed Ignition questions
In a message dated 12/30/04 7:09:13 AM Eastern Standard Time, SSoule(at)pfclaw.com writes: Len, Too bad - a little competition might be a good thing. I'm skeptical of the Lightspeed system in that it doesn't include a vital part (the non-impulse magneto gear) and the manufacturer cannot say with certainty where to get it. I makes me wonder what else might be missing when you get the $2,000 box ... The story of these projects is often "You pays yer money and you takes yer chances" to quote Popeye. I'm pretty tired of it. Have you ever tried to get assistance from the manufacturer when installing King or Narco avionics? No dice, even if you paid full price from an outfit like Aircraft Spruce a new-in-box item. Steve (rant, rant, rant) Steve: I have the Lightspeed on my 8A and love it. I have encountered one problem in the 302 hrs ... the timing kept getting off. I had met Klaus at Oshkosh. He is way above me in IQ so it was hard to keep up with him explaining the Lightspeed but after I had the timing problem ... I knew a little more about the system having installed it and run it. I was in California and went by his shop to see him. He truly is a great guy. He fixed my problem at no charge ... my system was 3 years old by then. I wanted to buy some plugs from him ... sold them to me for $2 each. He is really into racing his Long Ezy. I would not be concerned about dealing with Klaus. I have the Hall unit .. got mine from my engine builder. Good Luck !! Len Leggette, RV-8A Greensboro, N.C. N910LL 302 hrs ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 02, 2005
Subject: Re: Magneto drive gear - Lightspeed Ignition questions
From: Ted P Utley <tpu2(at)juno.com>
The gear is really a no-brainer to obtain. Call ANY shop in TAP and they will sell you one. Ebay has one at least every week or so. A parts catalog for $15.00, along with an overhaul manual for $20.00 are items it would be almost impossible to live without. As for Lightspeed or Emag, I would very carefully read the CAFE foundation series on electronic vs mag. I have completely dropped my desire for EI due to their research and some of my own. I hate to get flamed on this, but alot of the BS about EI on slow turning AC engines is in opinion just that. The upside is that you can get an IO-360 200HP engine to run smoothly on 8 gallons an hour. The downside is realizing that an 0320 might do the same thing, and we know most RVs fly just fine on that engine.... I'll stick with the higher top speed and power of mags. Ted Utley 8A/200/mags ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg@itmack" <greg(at)itmack.com>
Subject: aileron rivets
Date: Jan 03, 2005
Riveting the counterbalance pipe to the leading edge of the aileron and half way through it I noticed that I was using LP4-3 rivets instead of CS4-4. They both have a similar grip but the LP4-3 is not a flush rivet. If I leave the LP4-3 rivets in am I right thinking that thay can't be seen once the aileron is installed on the wing? The only other problem could be if the LP4-3 rivets will rub or catch on the wing when attached, is that likely? On another subject I used the proseal technique that Charles suggested for the leading edge of the aileron and they came out really well. Thanks Charles. Greg ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: aileron rivets
Date: Jan 03, 2005
Greg, The rivets can be seen by a person under the aircraft when the nose of the aileron is in the down position. In my opinion, the rivets (1) might be noticed by a nosy builder snooping around to see how you did your gear leg fairings or something, and (2) are not likely to rub or catch on anything. Steve Soule RV-6A N227RV flying RV-8 N222SZ under construction -----Original Message----- Riveting the counterbalance pipe to the leading edge of the aileron and half way through it I noticed that I was using LP4-3 rivets instead of CS4-4. They both have a similar grip but the LP4-3 is not a flush rivet. If I leave the LP4-3 rivets in am I right thinking that thay can't be seen once the aileron is installed on the wing? The only other problem could be if the LP4-3 rivets will rub or catch on the wing when attached, is that likely? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Paule" <dpaule(at)frii.com>
Subject: Powder coating, spiral wrap and a pre-oiler
Date: Jan 03, 2005
Hi, Everyone, I don't have an RV - but I do have a Cessna 180, and about ten years ago I did a major FWF rebuild on Big Hammer. There are a few points relating to that which may prove of interest to you. 1. I used some nylon spiral-wrap to protect a number of wires in the engine bay. The spiral-wrap closest to the exhaust manifold melted around the wires. It's safe, and still provides excellent protection, but can't be removed and it's unsightly. It has not melted more - that is, the initial meltdown seems to have been all that's happened. There is a high-temperature version available from www.mcmaster.com, which should be adequate. Look on page 702 on their on-line catalog for the PTFE version, in clear and black, various sizes. 2. I took the opportunity to remove the main landing gear legs and have them checked for cracks. Then I had them powder-coated, along with the baffles and the engine mount and the spinner bulkhead. The powder coating was a custom job, done very carefully and with all the appropriate process steps included. Here are the results, ten years later: The baffles are holding up perfectly. That surprised me, since I thought that vibration or chafe would do them in. The spinner bulkhead was lost in a stupid mishap during the first month of operation. It would embarrass me to describe it, so I won't. But the non-flight incident had nothing to do with the powder coating, which survived. The engine mount is intact with no cracks in the paint anywhere, in spite of numerous things clamped or screwed to the mount. However, the custom color is discolored in some areas that are close to the exhaust, in spite of the heat shields. I don't know if that would have happened if the exhaust system had been wrapped in insulation, but it is bare. The landing gear legs are generally still okay. There's a dimple in the legs where a brake line bracket snaps on, and I foolishly used that bracket for about four years. The paint cracked there, and on my last preflight I noticed a trace of corrosion there. There are a number of small chips in the pain where the legs had been struck by rocks tossed up from the prop (I don't always use pavement, and for that matter, don't always use airports.) There is no corrosion on any of those. In retrospect, I should have removed the brake line clip permanently when I painted the legs, and added some sort of gravel barrier, like a clear tape or something (maybe a fiberglass fairing....) to the leading edge. 3. I installed an engine pre-oiler. This one, by www.oilamatic.com, has proved to be an excellent device, requiring no maintenance and working quite reliably. I use it on start-up and on shut-down, even though it's not certified for operation during engine operation. I've noticed that if I don't use it on shut-down, that the oil pressure fades off before the prop stops. If I use it, the prop hits the final compression stroke and bounces back before stopping. I can feel the difference if I pressurize the system in the hangar and move the prop. Also, I can use it after an oil and filter change to pressurize the system before starting the engine, both for a leak check and to avoid running the motor while the new filter is filling. This device is a must-have, in my opinion. I have no connection with either McMaster-Carr or Oilamatic, outside of being a happy customer. I'm sending this to the RV-8 list and the more general RV list, so if you're on both and get two copies, that's why. My apologies. Dave Paule Cessna 180 "Big Hammer" ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 04, 2005
From: Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com>
Subject: Plenum Cowl...
RV-8(at)yahoogroups.com, rv8-list(at)matronics.com I seem to remember someone talking about just buying the rings for the "holy cowl" so you can roll your own... Anyone know anything about this? -Bill VonDane RV-8A - Colorado www.rv8a.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: RV8-List Digest: 4 Msgs - 01/03/05
Date: Jan 04, 2005
Greg: The LP-4 can be seen if someone is really interested, but(1) the plane has to be parked, (2) the aileron has to be in the down position and (3) the observer has to be standing verty close and be interested in looking at the aileron leading edge. Having said that, why not drill out the LP4-3 rivets? It'll only take a few minutes and then you won't generate any stomach acid over it later on. George drilling fuselage skins > >From: "Greg@itmack" <greg(at)itmack.com> >Subject: RV8-List: aileron rivets > > >Riveting the counterbalance pipe to the leading edge of the aileron and >half way >through it I noticed that I was using LP4-3 rivets instead of CS4-4. They >both >have a similar grip but the LP4-3 is not a flush rivet. > >If I leave the LP4-3 rivets in am I right thinking that thay can't be seen >once >the aileron is installed on the wing? The only other problem could be if >the >LP4-3 rivets will rub or catch on the wing when attached, is that likely? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg@itmack" <greg(at)itmack.com>
Subject: Re: RE: RV8-List Digest: 4 Msgs - 01/03/05
Date: Jan 05, 2005
Yep you're right I couldn't get them off my mind so I took them out. They came out quite easily after a few practice tries to get the proper technique. I took out some blind rivets when building the empennage and they were a pain, but these came out easily. Greg Starting fuselage soon. > > Greg: > > The LP-4 can be seen if someone is really interested, but(1) the plane has > to be parked, > (2) the aileron has to be in the down position and (3) the observer has to > be standing verty close and be interested in looking at the aileron leading > edge. > > Having said that, why not drill out the LP4-3 rivets? It'll only take a few > minutes and then you won't generate any stomach acid over it later on. > > George > > drilling fuselage skins > > > > >From: "Greg@itmack" <greg(at)itmack.com> > >Subject: RV8-List: aileron rivets > > > > > >Riveting the counterbalance pipe to the leading edge of the aileron and > >half way > >through it I noticed that I was using LP4-3 rivets instead of CS4-4. They > >both > >have a similar grip but the LP4-3 is not a flush rivet. > > > >If I leave the LP4-3 rivets in am I right thinking that thay can't be seen > >once > >the aileron is installed on the wing? The only other problem could be if > >the > >LP4-3 rivets will rub or catch on the wing when attached, is that likely? > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 05, 2005
From: N8RV(at)gte.net
"RV-8 List (Yahoo)"
Subject: Tools for sale
Alan Brown, former RV-8 builder, asked me to list the following: "I sold my kit to a guy in Orlando back in April. I kept the tools, but am now deciding I really won't use them in the future, but could invest the money in my other projects I'm working on. If you are still on the builders forum / discussion board, would you mind mentioning my tools for sale? If so, just tell them to contact me at alanrv8r(at)fuse.net, or (859) 485-7639 home, or (859) 240-2402 cell. I'm selling my pneumatic squeezer, a flat and cupped squeezer set, an Avery adjustable set holder and Cleveland washer spacer set, a standard yoke (1.5" or 2", I think), a longeron yoke, a 2X rivet gun (Avery's), several bucking bars, numerous cupped rivet sets for the gun and a flush swivel rivet head, a back riveting set, a fan spacer, a seam roller and some other stuff I'm sure I won't need. I will take pictures and send to anyone interested. Will discuss price on contact. Everything is like new / excellent condition and not used much. Price will be fair /used, based on 1998 - 2001 retail purchase prices - so one should not expect any flea market junk giveaway prices. In other words, serious inquiries only." If anyone's interested in his tools, give him a call and save some money. -- Don McNamara N8RV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Philippjw54(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 05, 2005
Subject: Re: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 01/04/05
Concerning the counter balance pipe for the aileron. Did you countersink the rivet holes In the pipe? CS4-4 rivets. Otherwise there will be interference with the aileron gap seal and possible hang up. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: RE: counter balance pipe
Date: Jan 05, 2005
Yes. I think that was covered in the video, if not the plans. - Larry Bowen Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com > -----Original Message----- > From: Philippjw54(at)aol.com [mailto:Philippjw54(at)aol.com] > Sent: Wednesday, January 05, 2005 9:20 PM > To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV8-List: Re: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 01/04/05 > > > Concerning the counter balance pipe for the aileron. Did you > countersink the rivet holes In the pipe? CS4-4 rivets. > Otherwise there will be interference with the aileron gap > seal and possible hang up. > > > ========= > Matronics Forums. > ========= > ========= > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Maureen & Bob Christensen" <mchriste(at)danvilletelco.net>
Subject: Vents
Date: Jan 05, 2005
I'm planning an aluminum eyeball vent just above the manual trim knob on the left side of the panel . . . the one Van's sells seems pretty big for the space, but I think it will fit? What is the best vent / plan for the front seat vent? Thanks, Bob Christensen RV-8 #81883 - SE Iowa ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 06, 2005
From: Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com>
Subject: New Videos...
vansairforce My buddy Paul Drexler has been shooting a lot of video lately of the planes and pilots in my EAA chapter and I got a chance to be a subject that past weekend... http://www.rv8a.com/videos/index.htm -Bill VonDane RV-8A - Colorado www.rv8a.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Clark, Thomas M UTPWR" <Tom.Clark(at)utcfuelcells.com>
rv8-list(at)matronics.com, rv9-list(at)matronics.com, rv-list(at)matronics.com, Mid-AtlRVwing(at)yahoogroups.com, rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com, BostonRVBuilders(at)yahoogroups.com
Subject: RV-8 Fastback
Date: Jan 06, 2005
Groups, I have had a bunch of questions about my modified RV-8 Fastback which was completed mid. last year. I now have a web site that should answer many of the questions about this modification. Try the link below. Thanks, Tom RV8 Fastback, N525TC, 75 hours http://members.cox.net/rv8fastback Tom Clark 860-727-2287 Office 860-604-5826 Cell 860-998-9811 Fax e-mail: tom.clark(at)utcfuelcells.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dr. Kevin Leathers" <DrLeathers(at)822heal.com>
Subject: Re: RV-8 Fastback
Date: Jan 06, 2005
Interested parties might also want to check out www.showplanes.com Doc ----- Original Message ----- From: "Clark, Thomas M UTPWR" <Tom.Clark(at)utcfuelcells.com> ; ; ; ; ; ; Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 Fastback > > Groups, > I have had a bunch of questions about my modified RV-8 Fastback which was > completed mid. last year. I now have a web site that should answer many of > the questions about this modification. Try the link below. > Thanks, > Tom RV8 Fastback, N525TC, 75 hours > > http://members.cox.net/rv8fastback > > Tom Clark > 860-727-2287 Office > 860-604-5826 Cell > 860-998-9811 Fax > e-mail: tom.clark(at)utcfuelcells.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Huft" <rv8(at)lazy8.net>
"Vansairforce(at)Yahoogroups. Com" , "Lycoming(at)Yahoogroups. Com"
Subject: LASAR system for sale
Date: Jan 06, 2005
Hi all I have for sale a complete LASAR system for the lycoming 360. Includes timing box and PC interface cable, two mags, harnesses, documentation. It is used, with about 200 hours on it. $1250 obo (half price) John Huft Pagosa Springs, CO ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Hans Conser <conserreceipts(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-8 Fast Back Kit
Date: Jan 07, 2005
So how much is the performance of the plane improved? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Date: Jan 07, 2005
Subject: [PLEASE READ NOW] - Addressing Upgrade At Matronics TONIGHT!
Dear Listers, Service Provider to upgrade to a larger IP subnet. I will be re-addressing all of the machines on the network including the Matronics Web Server and Matronics Email Server at that time. Name Service will be updated at that time as well and most things should work again pretty quick. There may be some bounced email for a few hours or even a day or so as the new name-to-ip-address resolutions propagate into the depths of the Internet. If you have problems posting a message to one of the Lists or get a bounced message back, please wait a couple of hours and try sending it again. Generally, access to the web site should work within 1-hour of Hopefully the transition will go smoothly and you'll hardly even notice! :-) Thanks for your patience! Matt Dralle List Administrator -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Philippjw54(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 08, 2005
Subject: Re: RV8-List Digest: 4 Msgs - 01/05/05
message(at)matronics.com, body(at)matronics.com, is(at)matronics.com, uppercase(at)matronics.com VIDEO?? WHO NEEDS A VIDEO ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 09, 2005
Subject: [ H.Ivan Haecker ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: H.Ivan Haecker Subject: Cabin Air Supply and Oil Cooler http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/baremetl@gvtc.com.01.09.2005/index.html o Main Photo Share Index http://www.matronics.com/photoshare o Submitting a Photo Share If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the following information along with your email message and files: 1) Email List or Lists that they are related to: 2) Your Full Name: 3) Your Email Address: 4) One line Subject description: 5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic: 6) One-line Description of each photo or file: Email the information above and your files and photos to: pictures(at)matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 10, 2005
From: N8RV(at)gte.net
"RV-8 List (Yahoo)"
Subject: Gots me an engine ...
FWIW, my engine showed up today. It's another work of art from the gallery of AeroSport Power, Inc. Bart built it with love, I'm sure. While this announcement won't mean a hill of beans to most of you, there are still a few out there who probably thought I've fallen off the face of the earth. Unless I just uncrated a very expensive boat anchor, I'm committed to fly this crate in the forseeable future. N8RV WILL FLY !! -- Don McNamara N8RV 80113 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Gots me an engine ...
Date: Jan 10, 2005
>FWIW, my engine showed up today. It's another work of art from the >gallery of AeroSport Power, Inc. Bart built it with love, I'm sure. > >While this announcement won't mean a hill of beans to most of you, there > >are still a few out there who probably thought I've fallen off the face >of the earth. Unless I just uncrated a very expensive boat anchor, I'm >committed to fly this crate in the forseeable future. > >N8RV WILL FLY !! > >-- Don McNamara > N8RV > 80113 Bout time!! You now have another year's worth of work to stuff that gold plated boat anchor into the cowling and actually make it work. Hey, I'm here to support you, my friend. Call on me, I'll be there. :) Heh. Brian Denk RV8 N94BD down for FIFTH annual RV10 '51 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 10, 2005
From: N8RV(at)gte.net
"RV-8 List (Yahoo)"
Subject: Canopy sealing woes ...
OK, I've listened you most of you flying RV8ers out there bitch and moan at one time or another about how that carefully crafted canopy skirt warps with temperature and just won't seal out the air when flying, right? Well, I have a question for everybody ... Is there any reason why a passive latch couldn't be fabricated to pull the canopy frame tight to the fuse when the canopy is closed and latched? Wouldn't a couple of aluminum or UHMW blocks, shaped to engage the frame or a couple of latches, work to hold the rear of the canopy closed and tight to the fuse? Any thoughts would be appreciated ... -- Don McNamara N8RV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Canopy sealing woes ...
Date: Jan 10, 2005
OK, I've listened you most of you flying RV8ers out there bitch and moan >at one time or another about how that carefully crafted canopy skirt >warps with temperature and just won't seal out the air when flying, >right? > >Well, I have a question for everybody ... > >Is there any reason why a passive latch couldn't be fabricated to pull >the canopy frame tight to the fuse when the canopy is closed and >latched? Wouldn't a couple of aluminum or UHMW blocks, shaped to engage >the frame or a couple of latches, work to hold the rear of the canopy >closed and tight to the fuse? > >Any thoughts would be appreciated ... > >-- Don McNamara > N8RV Bitch and moan? ME? I whimper and whine. It's much more subtle but still gets the point across. Additional latches might work somewhat, but I'd be afraid of forgetting to unlatch them and whilst yanking the canopy aft on rollout on a scorching hot day, rip the skirt right off the canopy frame. There must be a sure fire way to really snug that canopy skirt down tight to the turtledeck but it will take some wiley engineering to do it. Meanwhile, weatherstripping or layers of sticky backed felt do a decent job. On one particularly cold flight, Debbie stuffed a sweater or jacket up behind her head to stop the drafts. Worked like a charm. Blocked my view of my six o'clock though. Always must be on the lookout for bogeys. Brian Denk RV8 N94BD RV10 '51 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com>
Subject: Re: Canopy sealing woes ...
Date: Jan 10, 2005
I have been thinking about this and was out looking at the plane tonight, and I think if we could come up with a piece of foam to take up all the space from the rear of the canopy frame weldment back to the back of the canopy skirt it would solve all the air leaks back there... Kinda like what Brian said about stuffing a blanket or jacket back there... Something soft that compresses easily so it wont hold the back of the canopy up, but will expand to keep it sealed during expansion / contraction... I am going to experiment... -Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: <N8RV(at)gte.net> Subject: RV8-List: Canopy sealing woes ... OK, I've listened you most of you flying RV8ers out there bitch and moan at one time or another about how that carefully crafted canopy skirt warps with temperature and just won't seal out the air when flying, right? Well, I have a question for everybody ... Is there any reason why a passive latch couldn't be fabricated to pull the canopy frame tight to the fuse when the canopy is closed and latched? Wouldn't a couple of aluminum or UHMW blocks, shaped to engage the frame or a couple of latches, work to hold the rear of the canopy closed and tight to the fuse? Any thoughts would be appreciated ... -- Don McNamara N8RV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Michel Gordillo" <michelgordillo(at)telefonica.net>
Subject: Re: Canopy sealing woes ...
Date: Jan 11, 2005
Even though I am on the early building of my RV8, I plan to fly it in very cold temperatures. So I was concerned about a crack on the Jon Johanson canopy when flying over the North Pole. I was lucky to meet him last year at Oshkosh. He told me that when the canopy is formed, a lot of stress is put on it and when the temperature changes, tensions appears everywhere. I think that those tensions warp the canopy. Jon did put the canopy in an oven with controlled temperature, and was able to release all the stress on it ( like torch heating after TIG welding). I dont have the parameteres and times that he used, but I will ask him once the canopy is built. May be it is one way to go. Michel ----- Original Message ----- From: <N8RV(at)gte.net> Subject: RV8-List: Canopy sealing woes ... > > OK, I've listened you most of you flying RV8ers out there bitch and moan > at one time or another about how that carefully crafted canopy skirt > warps with temperature and just won't seal out the air when flying, > right? > > Well, I have a question for everybody ... > > Is there any reason why a passive latch couldn't be fabricated to pull > the canopy frame tight to the fuse when the canopy is closed and > latched? Wouldn't a couple of aluminum or UHMW blocks, shaped to engage > the frame or a couple of latches, work to hold the rear of the canopy > closed and tight to the fuse? > > Any thoughts would be appreciated ... > > -- Don McNamara > N8RV > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 11, 2005
Subject: Re: Canopy sealing woes ...
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
I've had limited success with adhesive felt, about 1/8" thick. Normally used on the bottom of lamps or bookends. - Larry Bowen Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com Bill VonDane said: > > I have been thinking about this and was out looking at the plane tonight, > and I think if we could come up with a piece of foam to take up all the > space from the rear of the canopy frame weldment back to the back of the > canopy skirt it would solve all the air leaks back there... Kinda like > what > Brian said about stuffing a blanket or jacket back there... Something > soft > that compresses easily so it wont hold the back of the canopy up, but will > expand to keep it sealed during expansion / contraction... > > I am going to experiment... > > -Bill > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: <N8RV(at)gte.net> > To: "RV-8 List (Matronics)" ; "RV-8 List (Yahoo)" > > Subject: RV8-List: Canopy sealing woes ... > > > OK, I've listened you most of you flying RV8ers out there bitch and moan > at one time or another about how that carefully crafted canopy skirt > warps with temperature and just won't seal out the air when flying, > right? > > Well, I have a question for everybody ... > > Is there any reason why a passive latch couldn't be fabricated to pull > the canopy frame tight to the fuse when the canopy is closed and > latched? Wouldn't a couple of aluminum or UHMW blocks, shaped to engage > the frame or a couple of latches, work to hold the rear of the canopy > closed and tight to the fuse? > > Any thoughts would be appreciated ... > > -- Don McNamara > N8RV > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 11, 2005
From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject: Re: Canopy sealing woes ...
Hi Michel, Instead of using rivets and screws on the canopy, gluing it on should greatly reduce the likelihood of cracking. This is what I plan to do, and others have done with great success. Mickey Michel Gordillo wrote: > > Even though I am on the early building of my RV8, I plan to fly it in very > cold temperatures. > So I was concerned about a crack on the Jon Johanson canopy when flying over > the North Pole. > I was lucky to meet him last year at Oshkosh. > He told me that when the canopy is formed, a lot of stress is put on it and > when the temperature changes, tensions appears everywhere. > I think that those tensions warp the canopy. > Jon did put the canopy in an oven with controlled temperature, and was able > to release all the stress on it ( like torch heating after TIG welding). > I dont have the parameteres and times that he used, but I will ask him once > the canopy is built. > May be it is one way to go. > Michel > -- Mickey Coggins http://www.rv8.ch/ #82007 Wiring ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Michel Gordillo" <michelgordillo(at)telefonica.net>
Subject: Re: Canopy sealing woes ...
Date: Jan 11, 2005
I plan to do the same, Mike, and also the ....oven. Problem is that the flexible glue I plan to use, is limited to -40 Centigrade. My actual plane ( MCR 01) has the canopy glued also. Best regards. Michel ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> Subject: Re: RV8-List: Canopy sealing woes ... > > Hi Michel, > > Instead of using rivets and screws on the canopy, gluing > it on should greatly reduce the likelihood of cracking. This > is what I plan to do, and others have done with great success. > > Mickey > > Michel Gordillo wrote: >> >> >> Even though I am on the early building of my RV8, I plan to fly it in >> very >> cold temperatures. >> So I was concerned about a crack on the Jon Johanson canopy when flying >> over >> the North Pole. >> I was lucky to meet him last year at Oshkosh. >> He told me that when the canopy is formed, a lot of stress is put on it >> and >> when the temperature changes, tensions appears everywhere. >> I think that those tensions warp the canopy. >> Jon did put the canopy in an oven with controlled temperature, and was >> able >> to release all the stress on it ( like torch heating after TIG welding). >> I dont have the parameteres and times that he used, but I will ask him >> once >> the canopy is built. >> May be it is one way to go. >> Michel >> > -- > Mickey Coggins > http://www.rv8.ch/ > #82007 Wiring > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 11, 2005
From: jim & terri truitt <jimteri1(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Canopy sealing woes
'Bout time somebody started talking about this. I've been thinking about this for 2 winters now. While weatherstriping and foam work, it really just addresses the symptoms and not the problem. For whatever reason, the back of the canopy still raises in flight. I doubt anyone's skirt fits any better than mine on the ground and mine still has gaps in flight. My engineer friend John Crabtree and I have pondered this to great extent. We're not sure why the rear canopy area has gaps - be it lift outside or cabin pressurization inside or canopy frame flex. Being an engineer, John wants to determine what causes the gaps first, then formulate a cure. Being a non-engineer, non-builder type, I just want to fix it. Together we kind of agree that there needs to be a rear canopy hold down device of some sort. Something that would engage to hold the canopy frame down when the canopy is pulled forward, but would not require actively locking it or unlocking it. We thought of installing fixed, angled metal pieces to the turtle deck, on both sides of the slide rail, that would engage the rear canopy frame as the canopy is locked in place - a passive device that would not really LOCK the rear frame down, but just keep it from rising up. When you slide the canopy to the rear, the angled pieces would disengage with the movement. If you're familiar with firearms, it would work similarly to the angled locking lugs on Sig and Glock barrels. I even thought of doing the same thing with a second sliding block on the slide rail. It would be wider than the nylon canopy block so it would rest against fixed stops on each side. The block would have an angled face to the rear. The rear canopy frame (or a fixture attached to it) would then engage the angled face of the block just before the canopy stopped it's foreward movement. Again, not actually locking the rear canopy down, just keeping it from rising. Any fresh engineering thoughts out there? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg@itmack" <greg(at)itmack.com>
Subject: Attaching flaps
Date: Jan 12, 2005
Hi all, I'm just about ready to attach my flaps to the wings but I haven't riveted on the bottom skins yet. Is it necessary to rivet the bottom skins on first to accurately drill the flap hinge or can I use a heap of clecoes on the skin. I'd prefer to leave the skins off for as long as possible so I can take longer to decide on wiring and also I haven't got my pitot tube yet (waiting for the heated Dynon). It would be good to drill it out now so I can get on with the countersinking dimpling etc. and then finally prime the flap brace etc. and put it on the shelf until I'm ready to rivet. Also which kit has the NACA duct that is glued/riveted under the wing, it would be nice to put that on now before the skin is riveted on. Greg 82070 RV8 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 12, 2005
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: Canopy sealing woes
I can honestly say my 8 canopy has little to no gaps on the ground or in flight .020 worst case I have seen, and the temp seems to have little effect. The skirt fits tight against the fuse and you can hear a good thump when the canopy is closed. My canopy skirt was molded to the fuse so there is a perfect fit, but this has added some thickness, so the skirt is about 2x thicker than stock in the back part of the skirt, but it sure hugs the fuse nicely and I think well worth the extra effort. > >'Bout time somebody started talking about this. I've been thinking about >this for >2 winters now. While weatherstriping and foam work, it really just >addresses the >symptoms and not the problem. For whatever reason, the back of the canopy >still >raises in flight. I doubt anyone's skirt fits any better than mine on the >ground >and mine still has gaps in flight. >My engineer friend John Crabtree and I have pondered this to great >extent. We're >not sure why the rear canopy area has gaps - be it lift outside or cabin >pressurization >inside or canopy frame flex. Being an engineer, John wants to determine >what causes >the gaps first, then formulate a cure. Being a non-engineer, non-builder >type, >I just want to fix it. >Together we kind of agree that there needs to be a rear canopy hold down >device >of some sort. Something that would engage to hold the canopy frame down >when the >canopy is pulled forward, but would not require actively locking it or >unlocking >it. We thought of installing fixed, angled metal pieces to the turtle >deck, on >both sides of the slide rail, that would engage the rear canopy frame as >the canopy >is locked in place - a passive device that would not really LOCK the rear >frame >down, but just keep it from rising up. When you slide the canopy to the >rear, the >angled pieces would disengage with the movement. If you're familiar with >firearms, >it would work similarly to the angled locking lugs on Sig and Glock barrels. >I even thought of doing the same thing with a second sliding block on the >slide >rail. It would be wider than the nylon canopy block so it would rest >against fixed >stops on each side. The block would have an angled face to the rear. The >rear >canopy frame (or a fixture attached to it) would then engage the angled >face of >the block just before the canopy stopped it's foreward movement. Again, >not actually >locking the rear canopy down, just keeping it from rising. >Any fresh engineering thoughts out there? > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Philip Condon" <pcondon(at)mitre.org>
Subject: Canopy sealing woes5
Date: Jan 12, 2005
RV8-List: Canopy sealing woes Is the lifting of the rear canopy in flight a local low pressure area or a more (relative) pressure area with in the cockpit area, or combination of both effects ? One idea is to modify the turtle deck area like the Harmon Rocket or F-1 Rocket to get rid of the shape that is causing the lifting action. Another approach is to lessen the internal cockpit pressure with air exits. Reverse flow household sill plate vents mounted on the inspection plates on the wing and rear fuse will act as air exits as the aircraft moves thru the air. This may lessen the lifting effect on the canopy. These sill plate vents are round, available in many sizes, most hardware stores/Lowes/Home Depot have them, made of aluminum and if mounted on the aircraft inspection plates, allow for a easy removal/replacement of the access plate if you don't want them later. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Clark, Thomas M UTPWR" <Tom.Clark(at)utcfuelcells.com>
Subject: Canopy sealing woes5
Date: Jan 12, 2005
My RV-8 is a fastback just similar a Harmon Rocket and I have a tight aluminum skirt. I still get a blast of air coming in at the small opening at the canopy track on top of the fuselage. So the theory that a modified turtle deck will change the pressure profile and stop the positive pressure at that point is not going to help. My solution for this winter is the GIB gets a small rag to stop the draft after the canopy is closed. Tom Clark 525TC RV8 Fastback -----Original Message----- From: Philip Condon [mailto:pcondon(at)mitre.org] Subject: RV8-List: Canopy sealing woes5 RV8-List: Canopy sealing woes Is the lifting of the rear canopy in flight a local low pressure area or a more (relative) pressure area with in the cockpit area, or combination of both effects ? One idea is to modify the turtle deck area like the Harmon Rocket or F-1 Rocket to get rid of the shape that is causing the lifting action. Another approach is to lessen the internal cockpit pressure with air exits. Reverse flow household sill plate vents mounted on the inspection plates on the wing and rear fuse will act as air exits as the aircraft moves thru the air. This may lessen the lifting effect on the canopy. These sill plate vents are round, available in many sizes, most hardware stores/Lowes/Home Depot have them, made of aluminum and if mounted on the aircraft inspection plates, allow for a easy removal/replacement of the access plate if you don't want them later. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: Attaching flaps
Date: Jan 12, 2005
Greg, I drilled the flap hinge on my RV-6A (flying) and my RV-8 (not yet flying.) Seemed to work OK. Ask Van's to get their take on it. Steve Swanton, Vermont -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Greg@itmack Hi all, I'm just about ready to attach my flaps to the wings but I haven't riveted on the bottom skins yet. Is it necessary to rivet the bottom skins on first to accurately drill the flap hinge ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: Attaching flaps
Date: Jan 12, 2005
That should read: "I drilled the flap hinge on my RV-6A (flying) and my RV-8 (not yet flying) with the skin clecoed on, not riveted." Actually the construction manual for the RV-6 might tell you to make sure the skin is NOT riveted on so that you can more easily line things up. Steve -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stephen J. Soule Subject: RE: RV8-List: Attaching flaps Greg, I drilled the flap hinge on my RV-6A (flying) and my RV-8 (not yet flying.) Seemed to work OK. Ask Van's to get their take on it. Steve Swanton, Vermont -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Greg@itmack Hi all, I'm just about ready to attach my flaps to the wings but I haven't riveted on the bottom skins yet. Is it necessary to rivet the bottom skins on first to accurately drill the flap hinge advertising on the Matronics Forums. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 12, 2005
From: Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com>
Subject: Double Sided Tape...
vansairforce I am looking for some GOOD double sided tape... The kind that just looks like a strip of glue when you peel the paper off, and really stick GOOD!!! ...not the foam crap! Anyone have any leads on this stuff? -Bill VonDane RV-8A - Colorado www.rv8a.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Gosh2Fly(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 12, 2005
Subject: Re: Double Sided Tape...
check-out WWW.WINGSANDWHEELS website. Sailplanes use a double sided tape for the mylar seals on the wings. Ken ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 12, 2005
From: Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com>
Subject: 12v blankets
vansairforce they have a ton of these on ebay for like $20! http://tinyurl.com/4mxey -Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: Bill VonDane Subject: Re: [RV-8] back seat heat How about this heating blanket!? http://www.sportsimportsltd.com/12volheathea.html -Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: Joel Harding Subject: Re: [RV-8] back seat heat Another alternative for warming the GIB would be a 12 V heating pad. You could sit on it, warm the tootsies one at a time, drape it over your head for that chilly draft on the back of your neck, or just fold it up and use it for a pillow. I could go on, but you get the idea. The down side is the extra cord floating around the cabin, but for only forty bucks it might be worth a try. It's on the same web page Dane mentioned, under Automotive Seat Heaters. Joel Harding (Still waiting for the paint man to finish) On Jan 3, 2005, at 6:57 AM, Dane Patterson wrote: I ordered my rear seat heat kit from Sports Imports LTD. http://www.sportsimportsltd.com/afcarseathea.html A Two Element kit for the seat bottom and the seat back sells for about $130.00. They work great for the back seat and my wife is very pleased with them. I don't think they would work for the front seat. The elements are heating pads which can be cut in length but not in width. The front seats on an RV-8 are very narrow, so this could be a problem, unless you wrap the element around the sides, and maybe the back? The elements go inside the cushion between the foam seat cushion and the cover, so they aren't really visible. You might want to order the kit and sent the elements to who ever makes up your seats. Oregon Aero glues everything together when they make their seats, so if they can incorporate the heating elements into the seats, it'll save you the trouble of having to peal the seat covers off the cushions and re-glueing them back down. Once you have all the drafts from leaking canopy skirts, etc. the electric elements in the rear seats should provide all the heat necessary for your GIB. They draw about 3 - 4 Amps until they are warm, and the thermostat cuts down the current to about 1 - 2 Amps. David Rogers wrote: Dane, Where'd you get them from ? What brand name are they ? details please. Thanks, Dave R. RV-8, Fuselage N173DR (reserved) 76 Grumman AA-1B/160hp N1649R -----Original Message----- From: Dane Patterson [mailto:DanePatterson(at)charter.net] Sent: Sunday, December 12, 2004 6:35 PM To: RV-8(at)yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [RV-8] back seat heat I put electric seat heaters in the cushions of the back seat. My wife loves them. Dane Patterson On Dec 12, 2004, at 2:42 AM, n767rk wrote: what have builders done in the past for heat to the back seat of an RV 8. Ron Korn =95 To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/RV-8/ =95 To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: RV-8-unsubscribe(at)yahoogroups.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 12, 2005
From: Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com>
Subject: -8A upper gear leg fairings...
vansairforce Anyone have some good ideas / photos of how to attach the upper gear leg fairings on an -8A? -Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn(at)cox.net>
,
Subject: Re: [VAF Mailing List] Double Sided Tape...
Date: Jan 12, 2005
Bill, If you have a good specialty auto paint and trim place in your area they will have the stuff for auto trim. I have some and it is great but you've only got one shot to get it right!!! If you don't have such a place let me know and I'll pick it up for you. Darwin N. Barrie Chandler AZ ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com> ; "vansairforce" Subject: [VAF Mailing List] Double Sided Tape... > > > I am looking for some GOOD double sided tape... The kind that just looks > like a strip of glue when you peel the paper off, and really stick GOOD!!! > ...not the foam crap! > > Anyone have any leads on this stuff? > > > -Bill VonDane > RV-8A - Colorado > www.rv8a.com > > > Help save the life of a child. Support St. Jude Children's Research Hospital's > 'Thanks & Giving.' > http://us.click.yahoo.com/6iY7fA/5WnJAA/Y3ZIAA/1yWplB/TM > > Online help on this group at: > http://help.yahoo.com/help/groups/ > > > <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/vansairforce/ > > <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: > vansairforce-unsubscribe(at)yahoogroups.com > > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: luckymacy(at)comcast.net (lucky)
Subject: Re: Canopy sealing woes
Date: Jan 13, 2005
I'm using a 1/4 inch thick canopy (ie heavier than Van's stock canopies) and I built up a heavy, stiff, thick, super comforming rear skirt with multiple layers of fiberglass/microballoon slurry. It will not vibrate nor change shape at high speed without a fight. When my canopy seats, the whole mess just doesn't want to budge in any direction including up - in the garage anyway ;-) Lucky -------------- Original message -------------- > > 'Bout time somebody started talking about this. I've been thinking about this > for > 2 winters now. While weatherstriping and foam work, it really just addresses > the > symptoms and not the problem. For whatever reason, the back of the canopy still > raises in flight. I doubt anyone's skirt fits any better than mine on the > ground > and mine still has gaps in flight. > My engineer friend John Crabtree and I have pondered this to great extent. > We're > not sure why the rear canopy area has gaps - be it lift outside or cabin > pressurization > inside or canopy frame flex. Being an engineer, John wants to determine what > causes > the gaps first, then formulate a cure. Being a non-engineer, non-builder type, > I just want to fix it. > Together we kind of agree that there needs to be a rear canopy hold down device > of some sort. Something that would engage to hold the canopy frame down when > the > canopy is pulled forward, but would not require actively locking it or unlocking > it. We thought of installing fixed, angled metal pieces to the turtle deck, on > both sides of the slide rail, that would engage the rear canopy frame as the > canopy > is locked in place - a passive device that would not really LOCK the rear frame > down, but just keep it from rising up. When you slide the canopy to the rear, > the > angled pieces would disengage with the movement. If you're familiar with > firearms, > it would work similarly to the angled locking lugs on Sig and Glock barrels. > I even thought of doing the same thing with a second sliding block on the slide > rail. It would be wider than the nylon canopy block so it would rest against > fixed > stops on each side. The block would have an angled face to the rear. The rear > canopy frame (or a fixture attached to it) would then engage the angled face of > the block just before the canopy stopped it's foreward movement. Again, not > actually > locking the rear canopy down, just keeping it from rising. > Any fresh engineering thoughts out there? > > > > > > I'm using a 1/4 inch thick canopy (ie heavier than Van's stock canopies) and I built up a heavy, stiff, thick,super comforming rear skirtwith multiple layers of fiberglass/microballoon slurry. It will not vibrate nor change shape at high speed without a fight. When my canopy seats, the whole mess just doesn't want to budge in any direction including up- in the garage anyway ;-) Lucky -------------- Original message -------------- -- RV8-List message posted by: jim terri truitt 'Bout time somebody started talking about this. I've been thinking about this for 2 winters now. While weatherstriping and foam work, it really just addresses the symptoms and not the problem. For whatever reason, the back of the canopy still raises in flight. I doubt anyone's skirt fits any better than mine on the ground and mine still has gaps in flight. My engineer friend John Crabtree and I have pondered this to great extent. We're not sure why the rear canopy area has gaps - be it lift outside or cabin pressurization inside or canopy frame flex. Being an engineer, John wants to determine what causes the gaps first, then formulate a cure. Being a non-engineer, non-builder type, I just want to fix it. Together we kind of agree that there needs to be a rear canopy hold down device of some sort. Something that would engage to hold the canopy frame down when the canopy is pulled forward, but would not require actively locking it or unlocking it. We thought of installing fixed, angled metal pieces to the turtle deck, on both sides of the slide rail, that would engage the rear canopy frame as the canopy is locked in place - a passive device that would not really LOCK the rear frame down, but just keep it from rising up. When you slide the canopy to the rear, the angled pieces would disengage with the movement. If you're familiar with firearms, it would work similarly to the angled locking lugs on Sig and Glock barrels. I even thought of doing the s ame thing with a second sliding block on the slide rail. It would be wider than the nylon canopy block so it would rest against fixed stops on each side. The block would have an angled face to the rear. The rear canopy frame (or a fixture attached to it) would then engage the angled face of the block just before the canopy stopped it's foreward movement. Again, not actually locking the rear canopy down, just keeping it from rising. Any fresh engineering thoughts out there? ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Double Sided Tape...
From: "Greg V. Miller" <gvm3(at)cableone.net>
Date: Jan 12, 2005
Woven fiberglass carpet tape works... > > I am looking for some GOOD double sided tape... The kind that just looks > like a strip of glue when you peel the paper off, and really stick GOOD!!! > ...not the foam crap! > > Anyone have any leads on this stuff? > > > -Bill VonDane > RV-8A - Colorado > www.rv8a.com > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 13, 2005
From: "John D. Heath" <alto_q(at)direcway.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: five year RV8 report - gear bolting
I missed that , had to go back and check. The MS21042 are also much lower profile than NAS365 nut and the reduced diameter of the wrenching area should allow even more room. I can't see any reason these nuts need to be low profile unless bolt length is an issue. We'll have to check for a thread and a half extending through the nut when they are all torqued down. The strength is even better so I'm going to be trying them when the time comes. John D. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> Subject: Re: RV8-List: Re: RV-List: five year RV8 report - gear bolting > > Hi, > > The nuts called out on my plans are NAS 679A6, if we > are talking about the same nuts, the ones in the gear > tower: > > http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story=20040404153921362 > > Van's calls this a "Low profile, Self-Locking 3/8-24". > > Mickey > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 16, 2005
From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject: Aero-Strategies Gear Leg Intersection Fairings
Hi, Has anyone tried these gear leg fairings on an RV8 with the Grove airfoil gear? http://www.aerosu.com/part3.htm Thanks, Mickey -- Mickey Coggins http://www.rv8.ch/ #82007 Wiring ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 19, 2005
From: Lenleg(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV's and EAA in Georgia...
Bill: You thinking about moving to the East Coast? Len Leggette, RV-8A Greensboro, NC N910LL 313 hrs ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 19, 2005
From: Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com>
Subject: Re: RV's and EAA in Georgia...
Hey Len... Yeah... Thinking of moving to Evans,.GA... -Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: <Lenleg(at)aol.com> Subject: Re: RV8-List: RV's and EAA in Georgia... Bill: You thinking about moving to the East Coast? Len Leggette, RV-8A Greensboro, NC N910LL 313 hrs ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bruce Niles" <bniles(at)cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Canopy lock
Date: Jan 19, 2005
I saw a web site or mybe a posting here of and -8 builder who use pieces off a Thorpe or Rocket to create a better locking mechanism. Does this ring a bell with anyone? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BVoutas(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 20, 2005
Subject: Re: Canopy lock
I am currently building a RV8-A and added a second latch on the opposite side of my canopy. It was recommended to me by other builders. I had vans sell me the duplicate latch pieces including the pin that is welded in the roll bar. It was easy to do. Although I can weld I wanted it to be pretty so I just had my local welding shop tig them for me. looks great. The canopy hardly moves as compared to the single front latch. I think that the rear single pin will be enough with the second front latch. Bruce Voutas N621BV FUSELAGE ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 20, 2005
From: John Huft <rv8(at)lazy8.net>
Subject: lasar bargain
"rv-list(at)matronics.com" Listers - I have put my LASAR system on ebay. So far, there have been no bids, so looks like someone will get it cheap. I would rather have a fellow lister get the bargain. Item number 4520429755 John Huft ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "tpu2(at)juno.com" <tpu2(at)juno.com>
Date: Jan 20, 2005
Subject: Fuel Pump - Bendix - IO360A1A
I've had no luck in finding reasons for and against using an electric pump setup other than AFP. I viewed a few installations on the list, and I see 16 or more connections between the tank and the engine driven pump. Aside from a cobbled appearance, I cringe at using a $600 backup system to a $150. engine driven pump! That said, does anyone know why a simple flow thru electric pump with a check valve and bypass isn't used? At worst, I'd have to add a regulator. Surely some of you researched alternatives before ordering the AFP sys from Vans. If I'm missing something obvious, I won't take offense at the correction. Ted Utley 8A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Esten Spears" <ewspears(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump - Bendix - IO360A1A
Date: Jan 20, 2005
Ted, I agree with you 100%! I did lots of research to avoid spending $600 on a Kludgy Rube Goldberg AFP System. I was ready to buy a Holley Racing pump and adding a Regulator and Check Valve. But then I found a new Weldon on ebay for $150 and went that way. MUCH Nicer & Cleaner Installation! and the Weldon has a built in Check Valve. Esten Spears, RV8A, 80922, N922ES, Leeward Air Ranch, Ocala, FL ----- Original Message ----- From: <tpu2(at)juno.com> Subject: RV8-List: Fuel Pump - Bendix - IO360A1A > > > I've had no luck in finding reasons for and against using an electric > pump setup other than AFP. I viewed a few installations on the list, > and I see 16 or more connections between the tank and the engine > driven pump. Aside from a cobbled appearance, I cringe at using a > $600 backup system to a $150. engine driven pump! That said, does > anyone know why a simple flow thru electric pump with a check valve and > bypass isn't used? At worst, I'd have to add a regulator. > > Surely some of you researched alternatives before ordering the AFP sys > from Vans. If I'm missing something obvious, I won't take offense at > the correction. > > Ted Utley > 8A > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 20, 2005
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump - Bendix - IO360A1A
From: Francis Butler <francis_butler(at)msn.com>
You are missing the obvious. Use a Weldon high pressure electric fuel pump. Not cheap, but what is having a reliable fuel system worth? F.Butler RV8 > > > I've had no luck in finding reasons for and against using an electric > pump setup other than AFP. I viewed a few installations on the list, > and I see 16 or more connections between the tank and the engine > driven pump. Aside from a cobbled appearance, I cringe at using a > $600 backup system to a $150. engine driven pump! That said, does > anyone know why a simple flow thru electric pump with a check valve and bypass > isn't used? At worst, I'd have to add a regulator. > > Surely some of you researched alternatives before ordering the AFP sys > from Vans. If I'm missing something obvious, I won't take offense at > the correction. > > Ted Utley > 8A > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Grking3(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 20, 2005
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump - Bendix - IO360A1A
This summer I used a Holley Blue ($100 locally) fuel pump when I installed a Bendix RSA-5 fuel injection system on my parallel valve (I)O-360 in a Pitts S-1. I did not use the supplied pressure regulator. I used a simple 1 way valve to allow the fuel to flow around the backup pump during normal operation. The Holley Blue pump is only rated at about 14 PSI at high flow rates. During ground tests that bypassed the mechanical pump the engine ran up to the same static rpm and had the same indicated fuel flow (pressure at the spider) as with the mechanical pump. I am very happy with the holley installation and feel it is as reliable as any other alternative, but it does sometimes break the squelch on my handheld radio when I turn the pump on. I am not sure if the radio interference is due to the pump (which sits in the cockpit a foot or two from the antenna) or my installation, but don't care too much since I normally don't use the radio. I might go with a high $$$$ Weldon or similar pump on my -8 project due to the radio interference and wanting to do everything as slick as possible on the RV. Just my two cents. Greg ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Speedy11(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 21, 2005
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump
Ted, You and Esten opened my eyes. I didn't realized there were other choices in fuel pumps. I'm going to look into the Weldon pumps. Thanks! Stan Sutterfield www.rv-8a.net In a message dated 1/21/2005 2:59:11 AM Eastern Standard Time, rv8-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes: Ted, I agree with you 100%! I did lots of research to avoid spending $600 on a Kludgy Rube Goldberg AFP System. I was ready to buy a Holley Racing pump and adding a Regulator and Check Valve. But then I found a new Weldon on ebay for $150 and went that way. MUCH Nicer & Cleaner Installation! and the Weldon has a built in Check Valve. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Fenstermacher" <dfenstermacher(at)earthlink.net>
Subject:
Date: Jan 21, 2005
Thought I'd ask off list. Which Weldon fuel pump did you use? Thanks for any help. Dave David Fenstermacher dfenstermacher(at)earthlink.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump
Date: Jan 25, 2005
Concerning fuel pumps I'd go for quality and proven reliability. Weldon seems very good - however, which pumps one should be thinking of? They have the aerospace line of pumps (15-40 psi, 25-45 GPH - this seems way more than enough for an IO360) mechanically driven by a separate electric motor, and added bonus is that they contain a relief valve. Weldon also has the automotive 500-A flow thru with its self contained motor but which needs an external regulator (60 psi, 60 GPH - For an IO-360 this second pump seems to be overkill). Within the context of an RV8 with an IO360, my understanding is that I basically need an electric boost pump for starting and for ensuring satisfactory fuel pressure during takeoff. Am I correct? If so, this precludes a continuous duty pump. As for Air Flow Performance - they have a pretty flash based web site but terrible in that they offer no info nor pricing on their products - it is near useless and one must dish out 25+ dollars to get their paper catalog for more info - it is really a pay to see scenario. My question to listers are: Boost or continuous duty? Which Weldon? What about AFP? One last question: are IO360s normally supplied with their own mechanical pumps and if so, at what RPM will they self prime if at all? Thanks all Michle RV8 wings > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list- > server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Speedy11(at)aol.com > Sent: Friday, January 21, 2005 8:26 PM > To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV8-List: Re: Fuel Pump > > > Ted, > You and Esten opened my eyes. I didn't realized there were other choices > in > fuel pumps. I'm going to look into the Weldon pumps. Thanks! > Stan Sutterfield > www.rv-8a.net > > In a message dated 1/21/2005 2:59:11 AM Eastern Standard Time, > rv8-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes: > Ted, > I agree with you 100%! I did lots of research to avoid spending $600 > on > a Kludgy Rube Goldberg AFP System. I was ready to buy a Holley Racing pump > and adding a Regulator and Check Valve. But then I found a new Weldon on > ebay for $150 and went that way. MUCH Nicer & Cleaner Installation! and > the > Weldon has a built in Check Valve. > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com>
"vansairforce"
Subject: Headsets.....again...
Date: Jan 26, 2005
Ok, I know we have been over this before, I just got through ready the archives... I am thinking of getting some Bose X headsets, but want to know if anyone has used any of these others before I spend the $$... I would also like to know what your old headset was and how they compare... Bose X (stereo) - www.bose.com - $995 Clarity Aloft (??) - www.clarityaloft.com - $550 Quiet Technologies (stereo) - www.quiettechnologies.com - $335 Panther Electronics (mono) - www.pantherelectronics.com - $599 Thanks in advance! -Bill VonDane bill(at)vondane.com RV-8A - Colorado Springs www.rv8a.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Glenn Bridges" <gbridges(at)altamahaemc.net>
Subject: Re: Headsets.....again...
Date: Jan 26, 2005
bill, I had a set of david clarks, noise reduction kind, and I got the bose. No comparison in my opinion. Dramatic noise reduction and i wear them on ;my tractor and riding lawn mower too. I am getting old and losing my hearing and I think these bose sets will prevent further hearing loss. For what it is worth. I tell friends how much is a good tool worth, a tool like your ears? glenn bridges rv4 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com> ; "vansairforce" Subject: RV8-List: Headsets.....again... > > Ok, I know we have been over this before, I just got through ready the > archives... > > I am thinking of getting some Bose X headsets, but want to know if anyone > has used any of these others before I spend the $$... I would also like > to > know what your old headset was and how they compare... > > Bose X (stereo) - www.bose.com - $995 > Clarity Aloft (??) - www.clarityaloft.com - $550 > Quiet Technologies (stereo) - www.quiettechnologies.com - $335 > Panther Electronics (mono) - www.pantherelectronics.com - $599 > > Thanks in advance! > > -Bill VonDane > bill(at)vondane.com > RV-8A - Colorado Springs > www.rv8a.com > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wayne Sweet" <w_sweet(at)comcast.net>
,
Subject: Re: [VAF Mailing List] Headsets.....again...
Date: Jan 26, 2005
I flew with Bose Series I headsets for 10 years. Got the X model and the other comments are exactly dead on; another very important characteristic is the very excellent mic. You need not "eat" the darn mic any more; 1/2 " is the recommended distance and it works super duper. Wayne ----- Original Message ----- From: Bill VonDane To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com ; RV-8(at)yahoogroups.com ; rv-list(at)matronics.com ; vansairforce Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2005 5:17 PM Subject: [VAF Mailing List] Headsets.....again... Ok, I know we have been over this before, I just got through ready the archives... I am thinking of getting some Bose X headsets, but want to know if anyone has used any of these others before I spend the $$... I would also like to know what your old headset was and how they compare... Bose X (stereo) - www.bose.com - $995 Clarity Aloft (??) - www.clarityaloft.com - $550 Quiet Technologies (stereo) - www.quiettechnologies.com - $335 Panther Electronics (mono) - www.pantherelectronics.com - $599 Thanks in advance! -Bill VonDane bill(at)vondane.com RV-8A - Colorado Springs www.rv8a.com Online help on this group at: http://help.yahoo.com/help/groups/ a.. To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/vansairforce/ b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: vansairforce-unsubscribe(at)yahoogroups.com Try www.SPAMfighter.com for free now! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 27, 2005
From: Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com>
Subject: Re: Headsets.....again...
RV-8(at)yahoogroups.com, rv-list(at)matronics.com, vansairforce I just wanted to clarify... I already have a pair of Lightspeed QFR CC ANR's, and I like them.....but lately some friends of mine have been trying to get me to try their Bose X sets... What I really want is one of the lightweight, headsetless (that's my new word) headsets... I guess I should have left Bose out of the mix... -Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com> ; "vansairforce" Subject: Headsets.....again... Ok, I know we have been over this before, I just got through ready the archives... I am thinking of getting some Bose X headsets, but want to know if anyone has used any of these others before I spend the $$... I would also like to know what your old headset was and how they compare... Bose X (stereo) - www.bose.com - $995 Clarity Aloft (??) - www.clarityaloft.com - $550 Quiet Technologies (stereo) - www.quiettechnologies.com - $335 Panther Electronics (mono) - www.pantherelectronics.com - $599 Thanks in advance! -Bill VonDane bill(at)vondane.com RV-8A - Colorado Springs www.rv8a.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 28, 2005
From: rveighta <rveighta(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-8 Landing gear question
I'm in the process of installing the main gear legs on my RV-8 and have run into some problems: When I attach the plumb bob lines per the manual to the leading edges of the gear legs, I am able to get the four lines in alignment only by canting the gear legs so far forward that (1) the forward bolt hole in each of the U803 outboard attach brackets is partially underneath the F 851PP skin, and (2) in this position, I can't maintain the 3/16" dimension between the edge of the fuselage and the F 803 from front to rear (If I get 3/16" at the rear, I get 1/4" at the front). When I first started this little project, I thought the gear legs would be pretty much centered in the opening where the cover plate goes. Reckon I should know by now that things that look simple usually aren't... Maybe you just put 'em in the center and shim the wheels for proper toe-in. Any way, has anyone else encountered this problem and what did you end up doing? Walt Shipley RV-8A Flying, RV-8 Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 28, 2005
From: Rodney Daulton <farmerrd(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: manual trim actuator
I am putting a new instrument panel in my 8 and it has manual trim. Does the vernier control part of the time mechanism come apart from the cable so I don't have to remove the cable the entire length of the airplane...thanks...Rod Daulton rdaulton3(at)comcast.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 28, 2005
From: Bob <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: manual trim actuator
Yes is comes apart right behind (forward of) the knob assy. I'll take a picture if you need one. Regards, Bob wrote: > > I am putting a new instrument panel in my 8 and it has manual trim. Does the vernier control part of the time mechanism come apart from the cable so I don't have to remove the cable the entire length of the airplane...thanks...Rod Daulton > rdaulton3(at)comcast.net > > > -- Thanks, Bob ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <fairings4u(at)cox.net>
Subject: Empennage -8 Faring ready from Fairings-Etc
Date: Jan 29, 2005
For those who have been waiting so patiently, the Emmpennage Fairing for the -8 is now available. Check out the web site: www.fairings-etc.com Bob Snedaker Fairings-Etc. www.fairings-etc.com bob@fairings-etc.com 603 203 9795 (cell) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
Subject: Experience with Faring ready from Fairings-Etc
Date: Jan 29, 2005
Listers - I am most interested in saving time at some expense by getting ready made fairings for my RV8. Could some of you guys comment positive or negative on your experience with www.fairings-etc.com. Thanks, Michle Delsol RV8 - Wings ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 29, 2005
From: Jim Bean <jim-bean(at)att.net>
Subject: Re: Experience with Faring ready from Fairings-Etc
owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com wrote: > > Listers - I am most interested in saving time at some expense by getting > ready made fairings for my RV8. Could some of you guys comment positive or > negative on your experience with www.fairings-etc.com. > > Thanks, > Michle Delsol > RV8 - Wings > I have the gear leg fairings and they are excellent. The empenage fairing that came with the kit fit just fine. I wouldn't be inclined to replace it with the one from fairings-etc. YMMV. Jim Bean RV-8 almost done > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ulf Petersson" <ulf(at)megadoor.com>
Subject: Canopy skirt
Date: Jan 30, 2005
I am getting ready to attach the canopy skirt and wonder what, if any, adhesive or sealant to use between the skirt and the canopy. Any suggestions or experience appreciated. Thanks Ulf Petersson Peachtree City GA RV8 A QB ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 30, 2005
From: jim & terri truitt <jimteri1(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Fairings etc.
I have Bob's gear leg to wheel pant intersection fairings (purchased while building) and I like them. I epoxied them onto the wheel pant and was able to get a very good fit with the gear leg fairings. I feel I saved a lot of time by not making my own. I have purchased his upper nose gear intesection fairing but have not installed it yet, mainly because I'm too busy flying. I now intend to purchase his new 8 empennage fairing as mine does not fit well since I shimed the horizontal stab. If you want to save time, or hate laying up custom fiberglass on your own (like me), Bob offers a worthwhile service and, from what I've seen so far, pretty good fit. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: Canopy skirt
Date: Jan 30, 2005
Lexel worked well for me. http://bowenaero.com/mt3/archives/2003/11/canopy.html - Larry Bowen Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com > -----Original Message----- > From: Ulf Petersson [mailto:ulf(at)megadoor.com] > Sent: Sunday, January 30, 2005 9:03 AM > To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV8-List: Canopy skirt > > > I am getting ready to attach the canopy skirt and wonder > what, if any, adhesive or sealant to use between the skirt > and the canopy. > > Any suggestions or experience appreciated. > > Thanks > > Ulf Petersson > Peachtree City GA > RV8 A QB > > > ========= > Matronics Forums. > ========= > ========= > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Donald Erickson" <dle(at)joplin.com>
Subject: Re: RV-8 Landing gear question
Date: Jan 30, 2005
Hi Walt. I drilled and bolted my RV8 _grove light weight gear this weekend. Had no problem. ( that I know of.) I was able to keep the 3/16" clearence. It seems centered in the Opening. I am sure some final shim may be required. You don't suppose your gear may be bent or improperly formed. Don ----- Original Message ----- From: "rveighta" <rveighta(at)earthlink.net> Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 Landing gear question > > I'm in the process of installing the main gear legs on my RV-8 and have run into some problems: When I attach the plumb bob lines per the manual to the leading edges of the gear legs, I am able to get the four lines in alignment only by canting the gear legs so far forward that (1) the forward bolt hole in each of the U803 outboard attach brackets is partially underneath the F 851PP skin, and (2) in this position, I can't maintain the 3/16" dimension between the edge of the fuselage and the F 803 from front to rear (If I get 3/16" at the rear, I get 1/4" at the front). > > When I first started this little project, I thought the gear legs would be pretty much centered in the opening where the cover plate goes. Reckon I should know by now that things that look simple usually aren't... Maybe you just put 'em in the center and shim the wheels for proper toe-in. > > Any way, has anyone else encountered this problem and what did you end up doing? > > Walt Shipley RV-8A Flying, RV-8 Fuselage > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <fairings4u(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Fairings etc.
Date: Jan 30, 2005
Thanks for the kind words. I keep 'trying'. Bob Snedaker Fairings-Etc. www.fairings-etc.com bob@fairings-etc.com > > From: jim & terri truitt <jimteri1(at)earthlink.net> > Date: 2005/01/30 Sun AM 10:50:52 EST > To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV8-List: Fairings etc. > > > I have Bob's gear leg to wheel pant intersection fairings (purchased while building) and I like them. I epoxied them onto the wheel pant and was able to get a very good fit with the gear leg fairings. I feel I saved a lot of time by not making my own. I have purchased his upper nose gear intesection fairing but have not installed it yet, mainly because I'm too busy flying. I now intend to purchase his new 8 empennage fairing as mine does not fit well since I shimed the horizontal stab. If you want to save time, or hate laying up custom fiberglass on your own (like me), Bob offers a worthwhile service and, from what I've seen so far, pretty good fit. > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <fairings4u(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Experience with Faring ready from Fairings-Etc
Date: Jan 30, 2005
Jim, Thanks for the kind words. I keep working on it. Bob Snedaker Fairings-Etc www.fairings-etc.com bob@fairings-etc.com > > From: Jim Bean <jim-bean(at)att.net> > Date: 2005/01/29 Sat PM 10:36:30 EST > To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV8-List: Experience with Faring ready from Fairings-Etc > > > owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com wrote: > > > > Listers - I am most interested in saving time at some expense by getting > > ready made fairings for my RV8. Could some of you guys comment positive or > > negative on your experience with www.fairings-etc.com. > > > > Thanks, > > Michle Delsol > > RV8 - Wings > > > I have the gear leg fairings and they are excellent. The empenage > fairing that came with the kit fit just fine. I wouldn't be inclined to > replace it with the one from fairings-etc. YMMV. > Jim Bean > RV-8 almost done > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Experience with Faring ready from Fairings-Etc
Date: Jan 31, 2005
Bob, You have a reputation for doing good work judging from the responses I got on this list and on the others. Please count me in for a full set for my RV8 - now it is just a question of timing. I am currently at the Wings stage and should hopefully order the finishing kit after I finish the fuselage canoe part - this year hopefully. Could you possibly email your lead time? Regards, Michle > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list- > server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of fairings4u(at)cox.net > Sent: Monday, January 31, 2005 5:36 AM > To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: Re: RV8-List: Experience with Faring ready from Fairings-Etc > > > Jim, Thanks for the kind words. I keep working on it. > > Bob Snedaker > Fairings-Etc > www.fairings-etc.com > bob@fairings-etc.com > > > > From: Jim Bean <jim-bean(at)att.net> > > Date: 2005/01/29 Sat PM 10:36:30 EST > > To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com > > Subject: Re: RV8-List: Experience with Faring ready from Fairings-Etc > > > > > > owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com wrote: > > > > > > Listers - I am most interested in saving time at some expense by > getting > > > ready made fairings for my RV8. Could some of you guys comment > positive or > > > negative on your experience with www.fairings-etc.com. > > > > > > Thanks, > > > Michle Delsol > > > RV8 - Wings > > > > > I have the gear leg fairings and they are excellent. The empenage > > fairing that came with the kit fit just fine. I wouldn't be inclined to > > replace it with the one from fairings-etc. YMMV. > > Jim Bean > > RV-8 almost done > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 31, 2005
Subject: Re: Canopy skirt
In a message dated 1/30/05 9:04:13 AM Eastern Standard Time, ulf(at)megadoor.com writes: > I am getting ready to attach the canopy skirt and wonder what, if any, > adhesive or sealant to use between the skirt and the canopy. > > Any suggestions or experience appreciated. > A friend here just used 3m-5200. I am watching and learning........ waiting for them to test :) Years ago I worked at a boat dealership and was amazed when the bolts were removed from an outboard and the motor remained on the transom. (V-6 mercury) and it was not just once this took place. 3m-5200 was used RV-4 RV-8 QB ....canoe Sal Capra Lakeland, FL My Home Page ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-8 Landing gear question
Date: Jan 31, 2005
Just a thought, but are you sure you have the left gear on the left side of the airplane? With the thing upside down and all when you drilled and installed the legs, it could happen. Just my two cents worth. Steve Struyk N842S (Res.) RV-8, Finish ----- Original Message ----- From: "Donald Erickson" <dle(at)joplin.com> Subject: Re: RV8-List: RV-8 Landing gear question > > Hi Walt. I drilled and bolted my RV8 _grove light weight gear this > weekend. > Had no problem. ( that I know of.) I was able to keep the 3/16" clearence. > It seems centered in the Opening. I am sure some final shim may be > required. > You don't suppose your gear may be bent or improperly formed. Don > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "rveighta" <rveighta(at)earthlink.net> > To: > Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 Landing gear question > > >> >> I'm in the process of installing the main gear legs on my RV-8 and have > run into some problems: When I attach the plumb bob lines per the manual > to > the leading edges of the gear legs, I am able to get the four lines in > alignment only by canting the gear legs so far forward that (1) the > forward > bolt hole in each of the U803 outboard attach brackets is partially > underneath the F 851PP skin, and (2) in this position, I can't maintain > the > 3/16" dimension between the edge of the fuselage and the F 803 from front > to > rear (If I get 3/16" at the rear, I get 1/4" at the front). >> >> When I first started this little project, I thought the gear legs would >> be > pretty much centered in the opening where the cover plate goes. Reckon I > should know by now that things that look simple usually aren't... Maybe > you > just put 'em in the center and shim the wheels for proper toe-in. >> >> Any way, has anyone else encountered this problem and what did you end up > doing? >> >> Walt Shipley RV-8A Flying, RV-8 Fuselage >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 31, 2005
From: Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com>
Subject: Real Time Weather...
vansairforce Anyone have real time weather in the cockpit yet? How does it work? -Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: RV8-List Digest: 7 Msgs - 01/30/05
Date: Jan 31, 2005
Ulf: You'll probably get different answers to this, but I feel strongly that you should use NO adhesive between the canopy and the skirt. The pop rivets will hold it in place quite securely and adhesives have an unpredictable propensity to react witht he plastic canopy, causing cracks, crazing and other kinds of mischief. George Kilsihek N888GK flying RV-8 kit # 80221 fuselage >From: "Ulf Petersson" <ulf(at)megadoor.com> >Subject: RV8-List: Canopy skirt > > >I am getting ready to attach the canopy skirt and wonder what, if any, >adhesive or sealant to use between the skirt and the canopy. > >Any suggestions or experience appreciated. > >Thanks > >Ulf Petersson >Peachtree City GA >RV8 A QB > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Speedy11(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 01, 2005
Subject: Re: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 01/29/05
Michle, I've already ordered my fairing. The products I've seen in the past from Bob Snedaker were excellent quality. His designs add flair to the airframe. I like his designs. I will likely order gear leg and wheel pant fairings also. Stan Sutterfield www.rv-8a.net In a message dated 1/30/2005 2:58:59 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, rv8-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes: Listers - I am most interested in saving time at some expense by getting ready made fairings for my RV8. Could some of you guys comment positive or negative on your experience with www.fairings-etc.com. Thanks, Michle Delsol RV8 - Wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Michel Gordillo" <michelgordillo(at)telefonica.net>
Subject: Re: Canopy skirt
Date: Feb 02, 2020
Hi Ulf. There is in Europe a very good product to be used as adhesive between skirt and canopy. It provides a thick bond and flexible to accomodete thermal expansion of the canopy even when temperatures reach minus 40 degrees centigrade. The name is Flex 310 M. It is isocyanate free, silicone and halogene free, overpaintable, sandable, good UV stability, salt water resistant and solvent free. The brand is Weicon, I have used it in my last plane ( MCR01) and flew around the world with it. Also plan to use it on my RV8 ( empenage complete,working on the fuselage). Check the next web page: www.weicon.de Best regards, Michel ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ulf Petersson" <ulf(at)megadoor.com> Subject: RV8-List: Canopy skirt > > I am getting ready to attach the canopy skirt and wonder what, if any, > adhesive or sealant to use between the skirt and the canopy. > > Any suggestions or experience appreciated. > > Thanks > > Ulf Petersson > Peachtree City GA > RV8 A QB > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 02, 2005
From: Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com>
Subject: single alternator and a small backup battery...
vansairforce I am looking to install a small backup battery in my RV to support a few systems should my elec system take a crap... Did anyone do this kind of thing on their RV? Do you have a wiring diagram of how you did it? Thanks... -Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Airwatch4(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 02, 2005
Subject: Re: Canopy skirt
> I am getting ready to attach the canopy skirt and wonder what, if any, > adhesive or sealant to use between the skirt and the canopy. > > Any suggestions or experience appreciated. Greetings, since I have quite a bit of experience in this area outside of RV'S, I'll post a couple of thoughts and tricks that I learned over time from personal experience and from others. Whether or not you can apply it here I don't know, since I'm still quite a ways off from canopy fun. Also, don't take anything I say here as gospel. Use your own judgement and visceral feelings towards these suggestions. Remember, it's your ultimate responsibility for your application. First off, I was a military helicopter mechanic and I'm currently a mechanic with a law enforcement unit. My experiences have been centered around helicopters. In dealing with helicopters, there are greater vibrations than what is involved with airplanes, so keep this in mind. When the factory installs the plastic, they DO use an adhesive. Exactly what substance it is, I don't know, but can find out if you'd like to go that route. In addition, Pro-Seal is used in place of or in conjunction with the adhesive. I believe most of you know Pro-Seal as that wicked, nasty stuff you use to seal your gas tanks. You may have a shocked and horrified look on your face, but Pro-Seal is good stuff that is used a lot in aviation. My recommendation is not to use the adhesive. Two years ago, we changed out all the Plexiglas in our helicopters. We have 6 Bell helicopters and 5 of them have all Plexiglas. That's 2 windshields and 2 chin bubbles in each aircraft. So as you can probably tell, I don't like Plexiglas anymore. Your goal is not to fuse the Plexiglas as permanently as you can to the skirt. The reason being, if you ever have to change your canopy (cracked,scratched,etc.), you will cuss if you used adhesive. We have spent a lot of time trying to GRIND what was left of the canopy out of the window channels so we could install the new ones. Think what an ugly mess that would look like. We use Pro-Seal to seal our windows. Its a lot softer and cushions the Plexiglas better. In addition, it can be painted over and can be removed easier later on with less drastic implements. The purpose of Pro-Seal is a leveling agent that helps smooth and support the transition from the riveted "non-budging" areas to the "free-floating"areas. This reduces any stress that may be present or develop there. The secondary purpose is obviously to help keep it attached to your aircraft while flying. So use that as food for thought. A couple of interesting tricks that I've learned in using Pro-Seal. Fuel tank people may be able to use these tricks too. I'm amused, but sympathize with people on trying to get the Pro-Seal to go where you want and don't want. All of the tricks I've seen by Van's are good. We use masking tape to keep it off of what we don't want and also to make nice straight lines using pro-seal. If you allow the Pro-Seal to cure for a few minutes and get a little firm, you can pull the tape up and it will leave a nice straight line without pulling up the Pro-Seal and the edge will still lay back down. This is very similar to the technique used in painting for lines. This works well in conjunction with the technique mentioned below. Another good trick is to use shampoo or soap on your finger to shape or fillet the Pro-Seal without getting it stuck all over you. You'll have to re coat your finger every now and then, but you'll be amazed how smooth you can get it. This is for smoothing and blending the top out only AFTER you have put it where you want. It would adversely affect the sealing if you got it between the Pro-Seal and sealing surface. I haven't seen any other adverse effect from using the shampoo. It may take slightly longer to cure out, but it will cure out fully. Obviously, if your using this method with your tanks or your going to paint over this, you would need to remove the soap residue by flushing or wiping it off with solvent or cleaner after it cures. In reality, there will be hardly any noticeable residue. I recommend trying all this out on pieces of scrap before tackling the real deal. The warnings of having a warm canopy during fitting cannot be emphasized enough. Another experience I'll throw out, is to be sure when your cutting and fitting, to try and do it in one work session or be sure to properly support and clamp the Plexiglas if you have to leave it. We had cut and shaped a windshield to fit late one afternoon and then left it overnight sitting unsupported on a bench ready to install in the morning. Well, in the morning, it fit totally different and we almost didn't get it to fit. Overnight, it had started to flatten out. We would have been a lot better off if we had left it in the window frame. An interesting lesson learned for sure. I hope this helps some of you in forming your own decisions and I apologize for being long winded. Good Luck! Greg Morgan A&P Oak Ridge, TN RV-8A Pacing back and forth waiting for my wing kit work: 4- OH-58A+ Kiowa's 1- OH-58C Kiowa 1- UH-1H Huey ( oh, yeah, it thumps!) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: Leveling fuselage to drill RV-8 gear
Date: Feb 03, 2005
Listers, I have my RV-8 QB fuselage upside down on a sawhorse so I can drill the landing gear on my RV-8. The manual says to level the F-822 floor fore and aft and laterally. This is pretty awkward since the floor is now the ceiling inside the cockpit, so to speak. I wonder why I can't level the bottom of the aircraft instead, that is level laterally between the gear mounts and fore and aft along the belly skin between the firewall and gear mounting points. Any information from experienced gear installers is welcome! Stephen Soule Swanton, Vermont RV-6A flying, RV-8 under construction Leveling fuselage to drill RV-8 gear Listers, I have my RV-8 QB fuselage upside down on a sawhorse so I can drill the landing gear on my RV-8. The manual says to level the F-822 floor fore and aft and laterally. This is pretty awkward since the floor is now the ceiling inside the cockpit, so to speak. I wonder why I can't level the bottom of the aircraft instead, that is level laterally between the gear mounts and fore and aft along the belly skin between the firewall and gear mounting points. Any information from experienced gear installers is welcome! Stephen Soule Swanton, Vermont RV-6A flying, RV-8 under construction ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RE: RV8-List Digest: 5 Msgs - 01/31/05
Date: Feb 03, 2005
From: "MAYNARD, LARRY D" <LMAYNARD(at)NCUA.GOV>
I would not use any sort of adhesive on the skirt. Reactions with the canopy could be disastrous. Plus, the canopy and the skirt will flex -- stretch and shorten with the weather and this could also lead to cracks in either one. This may not happen until the weather changes or you fly it for awhile. Stick with the tried and true -- rivets or screws. LDM Atlanta, Ga. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV8-List Digest Server Subject: RV8-List Digest: 5 Msgs - 01/31/05 * ================================================== Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive ================================================== Today's complete RV8-List Digest can also be found in either of the two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version of the RV8-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor such as Notepad or with a web browser. HTML Version: http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv8-list/Digest.RV8-List.2005-01-31.html Text Version: http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv8-list/Digest.RV8-List.2005-01-31.txt ================================================ EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive ================================================ RV8-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Mon 01/31/05: 5 Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 04:28 AM - Re: Canopy skirt (CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com) 2. 06:27 AM - Re: RV-8 Landing gear question (Steve Struyk) 3. 07:20 AM - Real Time Weather... (Bill VonDane) 4. 07:42 PM - Re: RV8-List Digest: 7 Msgs - 01/30/05 (Sally and George) 5. 09:17 PM - Re: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 01/29/05 (Speedy11(at)aol.com) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ From: CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com Subject: Re: RV8-List: Canopy skirt In a message dated 1/30/05 9:04:13 AM Eastern Standard Time, ulf(at)megadoor.com writes: > I am getting ready to attach the canopy skirt and wonder what, if any, > adhesive or sealant to use between the skirt and the canopy. > > Any suggestions or experience appreciated. > A friend here just used 3m-5200. I am watching and learning........ waiting for them to test :) Years ago I worked at a boat dealership and was amazed when the bolts were removed from an outboard and the motor remained on the transom. (V-6 mercury) and it was not just once this took place. 3m-5200 was used RV-4 RV-8 QB ....canoe Sal Capra Lakeland, FL My Home Page ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ From: "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker(at)hotmail.com> Subject: Re: RV8-List: RV-8 Landing gear question Just a thought, but are you sure you have the left gear on the left side of the airplane? With the thing upside down and all when you drilled and installed the legs, it could happen. Just my two cents worth. Steve Struyk N842S (Res.) RV-8, Finish ----- Original Message ----- From: "Donald Erickson" <dle(at)joplin.com> Subject: Re: RV8-List: RV-8 Landing gear question > > Hi Walt. I drilled and bolted my RV8 _grove light weight gear this > weekend. > Had no problem. ( that I know of.) I was able to keep the 3/16" clearence. > It seems centered in the Opening. I am sure some final shim may be > required. > You don't suppose your gear may be bent or improperly formed. Don > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "rveighta" <rveighta(at)earthlink.net> > To: > Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 Landing gear question > > >> >> I'm in the process of installing the main gear legs on my RV-8 and >> have > run into some problems: When I attach the plumb bob lines per the > manual > to > the leading edges of the gear legs, I am able to get the four lines in > alignment only by canting the gear legs so far forward that (1) the > forward > bolt hole in each of the U803 outboard attach brackets is partially > underneath the F 851PP skin, and (2) in this position, I can't maintain > the > 3/16" dimension between the edge of the fuselage and the F 803 from front > to > rear (If I get 3/16" at the rear, I get 1/4" at the front). >> >> When I first started this little project, I thought the gear legs >> would >> be > pretty much centered in the opening where the cover plate goes. Reckon > I should know by now that things that look simple usually aren't... > Maybe you just put 'em in the center and shim the wheels for proper > toe-in. >> >> Any way, has anyone else encountered this problem and what did you >> end up > doing? >> >> Walt Shipley RV-8A Flying, RV-8 Fuselage >> >> > > > ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ From: Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> Subject: RV8-List: Real Time Weather... vansairforce Anyone have real time weather in the cockpit yet? How does it work? -Bill ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ From: "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> Subject: RV8-List: RE: RV8-List Digest: 7 Msgs - 01/30/05 --> Ulf: You'll probably get different answers to this, but I feel strongly that you should use NO adhesive between the canopy and the skirt. The pop rivets will hold it in place quite securely and adhesives have an unpredictable propensity to react witht he plastic canopy, causing cracks, crazing and other kinds of mischief. George Kilsihek N888GK flying RV-8 kit # 80221 fuselage >From: "Ulf Petersson" <ulf(at)megadoor.com> >Subject: RV8-List: Canopy skirt > > >I am getting ready to attach the canopy skirt and wonder what, if any, >adhesive or sealant to use between the skirt and the canopy. > >Any suggestions or experience appreciated. > >Thanks > >Ulf Petersson >Peachtree City GA >RV8 A QB > > ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ From: Speedy11(at)aol.com Subject: RV8-List: Re: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 01/29/05 Michle, I've already ordered my fairing. The products I've seen in the past from Bob Snedaker were excellent quality. His designs add flair to the airframe. I like his designs. I will likely order gear leg and wheel pant fairings also. Stan Sutterfield www.rv-8a.net In a message dated 1/30/2005 2:58:59 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, rv8-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes: Listers - I am most interested in saving time at some expense by getting ready made fairings for my RV8. Could some of you guys comment positive or negative on your experience with www.fairings-etc.com. Thanks, Michle Delsol RV8 - Wings ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 03, 2005
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: RE: RV8-List Digest: 5 Msgs - 01/31/05
The company that makes Pro-Seal also has a blend made specifically for plastic windows. > >I would not use any sort of adhesive on the skirt. Reactions with the >canopy could be disastrous. Plus, the canopy and the skirt will flex -- >stretch and shorten with the weather and this could also lead to cracks >in either one. This may not happen until the weather changes or you fly >it for awhile. Stick with the tried and true -- rivets or screws. > >LDM Atlanta, Ga. > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV8-List >Digest Server >To: RV8-List Digest List >Subject: RV8-List Digest: 5 Msgs - 01/31/05 > > >* > > ================================================== > Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive >================================================== > >Today's complete RV8-List Digest can also be found in either of the >two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest >formatted >in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes >and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version >of the RV8-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor >such as Notepad or with a web browser. > >HTML Version: > > >http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv8-list/Digest.RV8-List.2005-01-31.html > >Text Version: > > >http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv8-list/Digest.RV8-List.2005-01-31.txt > > > ================================================ > EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive >================================================ > > > RV8-List Digest Archive > --- > Total Messages Posted Mon 01/31/05: 5 > > >Today's Message Index: >---------------------- > > 1. 04:28 AM - Re: Canopy skirt (CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com) > 2. 06:27 AM - Re: RV-8 Landing gear question (Steve Struyk) > 3. 07:20 AM - Real Time Weather... (Bill VonDane) > 4. 07:42 PM - Re: RV8-List Digest: 7 Msgs - 01/30/05 (Sally and >George) > 5. 09:17 PM - Re: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 01/29/05 >(Speedy11(at)aol.com) > > >________________________________ Message 1 >_____________________________________ > > >From: CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com >Subject: Re: RV8-List: Canopy skirt > > >In a message dated 1/30/05 9:04:13 AM Eastern Standard Time, >ulf(at)megadoor.com >writes: > > > > I am getting ready to attach the canopy skirt and wonder what, if any, > > > adhesive or sealant to use between the skirt and the canopy. > > > > Any suggestions or experience appreciated. > > > >A friend here just used 3m-5200. I am watching and learning........ >waiting for them to test :) > >Years ago I worked at a boat dealership and was amazed >when the bolts were removed from an outboard and the motor remained on >the transom. (V-6 mercury) and it was not just once this took place. >3m-5200 was used > > >RV-4 >RV-8 QB ....canoe > >Sal Capra >Lakeland, FL > My Home Page > > >________________________________ Message 2 >_____________________________________ > > >From: "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker(at)hotmail.com> >Subject: Re: RV8-List: RV-8 Landing gear question > > >Just a thought, but are you sure you have the left gear on the left side >of >the airplane? With the thing upside down and all when you drilled and >installed the legs, it could happen. Just my two cents worth. > >Steve Struyk >N842S (Res.) >RV-8, Finish > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Donald Erickson" <dle(at)joplin.com> >Subject: Re: RV8-List: RV-8 Landing gear question > > > > > > Hi Walt. I drilled and bolted my RV8 _grove light weight gear this > > weekend. > > Had no problem. ( that I know of.) I was able to keep the 3/16" >clearence. > > It seems centered in the Opening. I am sure some final shim may be > > required. > > You don't suppose your gear may be bent or improperly formed. Don > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "rveighta" <rveighta(at)earthlink.net> > > To: > > Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 Landing gear question > > > > > >> > >> I'm in the process of installing the main gear legs on my RV-8 and > >> have > > run into some problems: When I attach the plumb bob lines per the > > manual > > to > > the leading edges of the gear legs, I am able to get the four lines in > > alignment only by canting the gear legs so far forward that (1) the > > forward > > bolt hole in each of the U803 outboard attach brackets is partially > > underneath the F 851PP skin, and (2) in this position, I can't >maintain > > the > > 3/16" dimension between the edge of the fuselage and the F 803 from >front > > to > > rear (If I get 3/16" at the rear, I get 1/4" at the front). > >> > >> When I first started this little project, I thought the gear legs > >> would > >> be > > pretty much centered in the opening where the cover plate goes. Reckon > > > I should know by now that things that look simple usually aren't... > > Maybe you just put 'em in the center and shim the wheels for proper > > toe-in. > >> > >> Any way, has anyone else encountered this problem and what did you > >> end up > > doing? > >> > >> Walt Shipley RV-8A Flying, RV-8 Fuselage > >> > >> > > > > > > > > >________________________________ Message 3 >_____________________________________ > > >From: Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> >Subject: RV8-List: Real Time Weather... > vansairforce > > >Anyone have real time weather in the cockpit yet? How does it work? > >-Bill > > >________________________________ Message 4 >_____________________________________ > > >From: "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> >Subject: RV8-List: RE: RV8-List Digest: 7 Msgs - 01/30/05 > >--> > >Ulf: > >You'll probably get different answers to this, but I feel strongly that >you >should use NO adhesive between the canopy and the skirt. The pop rivets > >will hold it in place quite securely and adhesives have an unpredictable > >propensity to react witht he plastic canopy, causing cracks, crazing and > >other kinds of mischief. > >George Kilsihek >N888GK flying >RV-8 kit # 80221 fuselage > > >From: "Ulf Petersson" <ulf(at)megadoor.com> > >Subject: RV8-List: Canopy skirt > > > > > >I am getting ready to attach the canopy skirt and wonder what, if any, > >adhesive or sealant to use between the skirt and the canopy. > > > >Any suggestions or experience appreciated. > > > >Thanks > > > >Ulf Petersson > >Peachtree City GA > >RV8 A QB > > > > > > >________________________________ Message 5 >_____________________________________ > > >From: Speedy11(at)aol.com >Subject: RV8-List: Re: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 01/29/05 > > >Michle, >I've already ordered my fairing. The products I've seen in the past >from >Bob Snedaker were excellent quality. His designs add flair to the >airframe. >I >like his designs. I will likely order gear leg and wheel pant fairings >also. Stan Sutterfield www.rv-8a.net > >In a message dated 1/30/2005 2:58:59 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, >rv8-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes: > >Listers - I am most interested in saving time at some expense by >getting ready made fairings for my RV8. Could some of you guys comment >positive or negative on your experience with www.fairings-etc.com. > >Thanks, >Michle Delsol >RV8 - Wings > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 03, 2005
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: RE: RV8-List Digest: 5 Msgs - 01/31/05
I installed my canopy skirt exclusively with screws machined to 120 degree heads. The screws were torqued by hand with a driver that had a 3/8 handle diameter, so they are just snug. I also applied UHMW tape to the frame which will make canopy squirming easier. I then drilled the holes in the canopy about .040 larger than the screw to again allow for movement. The top of the skirt were it mates against the canopy was sealed with a silicone that is safe on Plexiglass. After 260 hrs everything looks and fits like new. > >I would not use any sort of adhesive on the skirt. Reactions with the >canopy could be disastrous. Plus, the canopy and the skirt will flex -- >stretch and shorten with the weather and this could also lead to cracks >in either one. This may not happen until the weather changes or you fly >it for awhile. Stick with the tried and true -- rivets or screws. > >LDM Atlanta, Ga. > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV8-List >Digest Server >To: RV8-List Digest List >Subject: RV8-List Digest: 5 Msgs - 01/31/05 > > >* > > ================================================== > Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive >================================================== > >Today's complete RV8-List Digest can also be found in either of the >two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest >formatted >in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes >and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version >of the RV8-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor >such as Notepad or with a web browser. > >HTML Version: > > >http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv8-list/Digest.RV8-List.2005-01-31.html > >Text Version: > > >http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv8-list/Digest.RV8-List.2005-01-31.txt > > > ================================================ > EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive >================================================ > > > RV8-List Digest Archive > --- > Total Messages Posted Mon 01/31/05: 5 > > >Today's Message Index: >---------------------- > > 1. 04:28 AM - Re: Canopy skirt (CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com) > 2. 06:27 AM - Re: RV-8 Landing gear question (Steve Struyk) > 3. 07:20 AM - Real Time Weather... (Bill VonDane) > 4. 07:42 PM - Re: RV8-List Digest: 7 Msgs - 01/30/05 (Sally and >George) > 5. 09:17 PM - Re: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 01/29/05 >(Speedy11(at)aol.com) > > >________________________________ Message 1 >_____________________________________ > > >From: CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com >Subject: Re: RV8-List: Canopy skirt > > >In a message dated 1/30/05 9:04:13 AM Eastern Standard Time, >ulf(at)megadoor.com >writes: > > > > I am getting ready to attach the canopy skirt and wonder what, if any, > > > adhesive or sealant to use between the skirt and the canopy. > > > > Any suggestions or experience appreciated. > > > >A friend here just used 3m-5200. I am watching and learning........ >waiting for them to test :) > >Years ago I worked at a boat dealership and was amazed >when the bolts were removed from an outboard and the motor remained on >the transom. (V-6 mercury) and it was not just once this took place. >3m-5200 was used > > >RV-4 >RV-8 QB ....canoe > >Sal Capra >Lakeland, FL > My Home Page > > >________________________________ Message 2 >_____________________________________ > > >From: "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker(at)hotmail.com> >Subject: Re: RV8-List: RV-8 Landing gear question > > >Just a thought, but are you sure you have the left gear on the left side >of >the airplane? With the thing upside down and all when you drilled and >installed the legs, it could happen. Just my two cents worth. > >Steve Struyk >N842S (Res.) >RV-8, Finish > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Donald Erickson" <dle(at)joplin.com> >Subject: Re: RV8-List: RV-8 Landing gear question > > > > > > Hi Walt. I drilled and bolted my RV8 _grove light weight gear this > > weekend. > > Had no problem. ( that I know of.) I was able to keep the 3/16" >clearence. > > It seems centered in the Opening. I am sure some final shim may be > > required. > > You don't suppose your gear may be bent or improperly formed. Don > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "rveighta" <rveighta(at)earthlink.net> > > To: > > Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 Landing gear question > > > > > >> > >> I'm in the process of installing the main gear legs on my RV-8 and > >> have > > run into some problems: When I attach the plumb bob lines per the > > manual > > to > > the leading edges of the gear legs, I am able to get the four lines in > > alignment only by canting the gear legs so far forward that (1) the > > forward > > bolt hole in each of the U803 outboard attach brackets is partially > > underneath the F 851PP skin, and (2) in this position, I can't >maintain > > the > > 3/16" dimension between the edge of the fuselage and the F 803 from >front > > to > > rear (If I get 3/16" at the rear, I get 1/4" at the front). > >> > >> When I first started this little project, I thought the gear legs > >> would > >> be > > pretty much centered in the opening where the cover plate goes. Reckon > > > I should know by now that things that look simple usually aren't... > > Maybe you just put 'em in the center and shim the wheels for proper > > toe-in. > >> > >> Any way, has anyone else encountered this problem and what did you > >> end up > > doing? > >> > >> Walt Shipley RV-8A Flying, RV-8 Fuselage > >> > >> > > > > > > > > >________________________________ Message 3 >_____________________________________ > > >From: Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> >Subject: RV8-List: Real Time Weather... > vansairforce > > >Anyone have real time weather in the cockpit yet? How does it work? > >-Bill > > >________________________________ Message 4 >_____________________________________ > > >From: "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> >Subject: RV8-List: RE: RV8-List Digest: 7 Msgs - 01/30/05 > >--> > >Ulf: > >You'll probably get different answers to this, but I feel strongly that >you >should use NO adhesive between the canopy and the skirt. The pop rivets > >will hold it in place quite securely and adhesives have an unpredictable > >propensity to react witht he plastic canopy, causing cracks, crazing and > >other kinds of mischief. > >George Kilsihek >N888GK flying >RV-8 kit # 80221 fuselage > > >From: "Ulf Petersson" <ulf(at)megadoor.com> > >Subject: RV8-List: Canopy skirt > > > > > >I am getting ready to attach the canopy skirt and wonder what, if any, > >adhesive or sealant to use between the skirt and the canopy. > > > >Any suggestions or experience appreciated. > > > >Thanks > > > >Ulf Petersson > >Peachtree City GA > >RV8 A QB > > > > > > >________________________________ Message 5 >_____________________________________ > > >From: Speedy11(at)aol.com >Subject: RV8-List: Re: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 01/29/05 > > >Michle, >I've already ordered my fairing. The products I've seen in the past >from >Bob Snedaker were excellent quality. His designs add flair to the >airframe. >I >like his designs. I will likely order gear leg and wheel pant fairings >also. Stan Sutterfield www.rv-8a.net > >In a message dated 1/30/2005 2:58:59 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, >rv8-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes: > >Listers - I am most interested in saving time at some expense by >getting ready made fairings for my RV8. Could some of you guys comment >positive or negative on your experience with www.fairings-etc.com. > >Thanks, >Michle Delsol >RV8 - Wings > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jacob & Grace" <grizzlybear(at)klondiker.com>
Subject: RV-8 Tail wheel alternatives
Date: Feb 07, 2005
Has anybody used or know about a larger or beefier tailwheel assembly for the RV-8? I will be committing the unpardonable sin of using gravel strips most of the time, some maintained only by gophers? I already have 6" wheels on the mains. I also wouldn't mind a bit more weight further back? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Marc Ausman" <marc(at)ausman.com>
Subject: Value of built empennage kit
Date: Feb 12, 2005
I have a friend who has finished building the empennage kit for a -8 and now must stop the project. He has offered to sell it to me, but I have no idea of the value. On one hand, it could be worth close to what he paid in parts and the fact it's completed is a nicety. On the other hand, there may not be much of a market for a kit partially through completion. I don't know. Anyone have thoughts or comparables? Many thanks, Marc ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 13, 2005
From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject: Re: Value of built empennage kit
Hi Marc, If you need the experience, and he has already built the tail, then it might have negative value to you. If you don't need the experience, and he did a good job, then I'd say it's about neutral. It's pretty rare to see much of a premium for our labor on these kits, until the plane is ready for taxi testing. Of course, just about every buy/sell pairing is unique, so YMMV. Mickey Marc Ausman wrote: > > I have a friend who has finished building the empennage kit for a -8 and now > must stop the project. He has offered to sell it to me, but I have no idea > of the value. On one hand, it could be worth close to what he paid in parts > and the fact it's completed is a nicety. On the other hand, there may not be > much of a market for a kit partially through completion. I don't know. > Anyone have thoughts or comparables? Many thanks, Marc > > -- Mickey Coggins http://www.rv8.ch/ #82007 Wiring ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: -8 Front stick length?
Date: Feb 13, 2005
-8, 8A Drivers, Any consensus out there on front stick length (overall height w/control grip installed) Are any cutting stick to the extent grip will clear forward under a standard panel? All comments welcome. Jack ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 13, 2005
From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject: Re: -8 Front stick length?
Hi Jack, I had to cut mine. I cut it to the max overall length that Van's recommended, minus about 1/4". It just passes under the panel with about 1/4" clearance. I'm using a Ray Allen G307 grip. Mickey Jack Blomgren wrote: > > -8, 8A Drivers, > > Any consensus out there on front stick length (overall height w/control grip > installed) Are any cutting stick to the extent grip will clear forward > under a standard panel? All comments welcome. > > Jack > -- Mickey Coggins http://www.rv8.ch/ #82007 Wiring ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jacob & Grace" <grizzlybear(at)klondiker.com>
Subject: Flightcom Intercoms
Date: Feb 13, 2005
I just spent two days trouble shooting the comm wiring in my 8 because when I toggled the Flightcom 403 to ISO it locked everything onto XMIT. Other than that it wouldn't transmit when keyed. Tried the ICOM A 200 in another aircraft, worked fine. So this weekend I ripped each wire out, tested continuity, replaced, but no change. Finally today I rigged the Intercom up outside the airplane....same thing. ICOM A200 works fine using airplane wiring but without intercom. Darned thing is broken inside....I figured that couldn't be...it was new out of box...I should have been more open minded in retrospect. So.....any recommendations for Intercoms with 1 comm unit and mono-music input? Flightcom lost it's appeal. Jacob 81938 (going for paint) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: Flightcom Intercoms
Date: Feb 13, 2005
Ummmm..... Did you buy a pre-wired harness from somewhere or did you wire it yourself? Don't throw it out until you're sure you've wired it correctly. Yes, it could be broke, but after wiring up literally dozens of Intercoms and troubleshooting many more for people, it's been my experience that the more likely problem is the wiring and not the Intercom. There could be other issues as well, but I'd urge you to make sure the box is in fact broke before you buy another. I had one customer who bought 3 different brands of Intercoms, swore all three were broke "out of the box", and come to find out it was all "pilot error". Not that this is the case with your installation, but it's also a possibility, as well as the possibility that the box itself could be broke like you said. Last but not least, don't get all worked up if it is broke. Flightcomm makes a great intercom, they are a great company and usually stand behind their products. Like anything aviation/avionics related there is the chance it could have a malufnction and it's wise to give any company at least one chance to make this right before firing both barrels. Just my 2 cents as usual. Cheers, Stein Bruch RV6's, Minneapolis. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jacob & Grace Subject: RV8-List: Flightcom Intercoms I just spent two days trouble shooting the comm wiring in my 8 because when I toggled the Flightcom 403 to ISO it locked everything onto XMIT. Other than that it wouldn't transmit when keyed. Tried the ICOM A 200 in another aircraft, worked fine. So this weekend I ripped each wire out, tested continuity, replaced, but no change. Finally today I rigged the Intercom up outside the airplane....same thing. ICOM A200 works fine using airplane wiring but without intercom. Darned thing is broken inside....I figured that couldn't be...it was new out of box...I should have been more open minded in retrospect. So.....any recommendations for Intercoms with 1 comm unit and mono-music input? Flightcom lost it's appeal. Jacob 81938 (going for paint) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jacob & Grace" <grizzlybear(at)klondiker.com>
Subject: Re: Flightcom Intercoms
Date: Feb 13, 2005
My mistake sorry! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> Subject: RE: RV8-List: Flightcom Intercoms > > Ummmm..... > > Did you buy a pre-wired harness from somewhere or did you wire it > yourself? > > Don't throw it out until you're sure you've wired it correctly. Yes, it > could be broke, but after wiring up literally dozens of Intercoms and > troubleshooting many more for people, it's been my experience that the > more > likely problem is the wiring and not the Intercom. > > There could be other issues as well, but I'd urge you to make sure the box > is in fact broke before you buy another. I had one customer who bought 3 > different brands of Intercoms, swore all three were broke "out of the > box", > and come to find out it was all "pilot error". Not that this is the case > with your installation, but it's also a possibility, as well as the > possibility that the box itself could be broke like you said. > > Last but not least, don't get all worked up if it is broke. Flightcomm > makes a great intercom, they are a great company and usually stand behind > their products. Like anything aviation/avionics related there is the > chance > it could have a malufnction and it's wise to give any company at least one > chance to make this right before firing both barrels. > > Just my 2 cents as usual. > > Cheers, > Stein Bruch > RV6's, Minneapolis. > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jacob & Grace > To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV8-List: Flightcom Intercoms > > > > > I just spent two days trouble shooting the comm wiring in my 8 because > when > I toggled the Flightcom 403 to ISO it locked everything onto XMIT. Other > than that it wouldn't transmit when keyed. > > Tried the ICOM A 200 in another aircraft, worked fine. So this weekend I > ripped each wire out, tested continuity, replaced, but no change. Finally > today I rigged the Intercom up outside the airplane....same thing. ICOM > A200 works fine using airplane wiring but without intercom. > > Darned thing is broken inside....I figured that couldn't be...it was new > out > of box...I should have been more open minded in retrospect. > > So.....any recommendations for Intercoms with 1 comm unit and mono-music > input? Flightcom lost it's appeal. > > Jacob > 81938 > (going for paint) > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MLWynn(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 13, 2005
Subject: Engine Balancing
Hi all, While I am only about three years ahead of myself here, I have read somewhere about fine-tuning the balance of an engine/prop in order to reduce vibration. It seems to me that I have read that a factory new lycoming, while a very safe and reliable engine, is not balanced to very fine specs and that one could either take a new engine and have it taken down and very carefully balanced or might actually be better off with a runout engine and having it rebuilt to tighter specs. Any thoughts or experience on this? Regards, Michael Wynn RV-8, middle of the empennage San Ramon, California ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 14, 2005
From: Dale Mitchell <dfm4290(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Flightcom Intercoms
I have the same setup in my 8A I have not flown yet but it works fine on the ground. After wiring it I'm amazed it worked at all. Dale Mitchell RV-8A MN wing --- Jacob & Grace wrote: > > > I just spent two days trouble shooting the comm > wiring in my 8 because when I toggled the Flightcom > 403 to ISO it locked everything onto XMIT. Other > than that it wouldn't transmit when keyed. > > Tried the ICOM A 200 in another aircraft, worked > fine. So this weekend I ripped each wire out, > tested continuity, replaced, but no change. Finally > today I rigged the Intercom up outside the > airplane....same thing. ICOM A200 works fine using > airplane wiring but without intercom. > > Darned thing is broken inside....I figured that > couldn't be...it was new out of box...I should have > been more open minded in retrospect. > > So.....any recommendations for Intercoms with 1 comm > unit and mono-music input? Flightcom lost it's > appeal. > > Jacob > 81938 > (going for paint) > > > > Contributions > any other > Forums. > > http://www.matronics.com/subscription > http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV8-List.htm > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > > > > > __________________________________ http://info.mail.yahoo.com/mail_250 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Flightcom intercoms
Date: Feb 14, 2005
Jacob: Before you chuck the intercom, check your wiring on the connector. The kind of problem you report is not uncommon with an incorrectly wired connector or one with a solder bridge. Solder bridges are very easy to get when wiring those devilish little pins. My experience with Flitecom intercom in my RV-8 was a very happy one. George N888GK airborne and gone 2d RV-8 fuselage in canoe stage >From: "Jacob & Grace" <grizzlybear(at)klondiker.com> >Subject: RV8-List: Flightcom Intercoms > > >I just spent two days trouble shooting the comm wiring in my 8 because when >I toggled >the Flightcom 403 to ISO it locked everything onto XMIT. Other than that >it wouldn't transmit when keyed. > > Tried the ICOM A 200 in another aircraft, worked fine. So this weekend >I ripped >each wire out, tested continuity, replaced, but no change. Finally today >I rigged the Intercom up outside the airplane....same thing. ICOM A200 >works >fine using airplane wiring but without intercom. > >Darned thing is broken inside....I figured that couldn't be...it was new >out of >box...I should have been more open minded in retrospect. > >So.....any recommendations for Intercoms with 1 comm unit and mono-music >input? >Flightcom lost it's appeal. > >Jacob >81938 >(going for paint) > > >___ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 15, 2005
From: vhimsl <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com>
Subject: Re: -8 Front stick length?
I would suggest you hold off until you decide whether or not going you are going to create an 'S' bend. This will come after you have installed your seat frame and mock upholstery (crudely cut pieces of pink foam). I cut mine at panel height and now realize that I want the 'S' bend. Don't know if it will be too short, hence my recommendation to wait. Vince Himsl RV8 - VSB Finish -----Original message----- From: "Jack Blomgren" jackanet(at)hotmail.com Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2005 11:34:09 -0800 Subject: RV8-List: -8 Front stick length? > > -8, 8A Drivers, > > Any consensus out there on front stick length (overall height w/control grip > installed) Are any cutting stick to the extent grip will clear forward > under a standard panel? All comments welcome. > > Jack > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com>
Subject: -8 Front stick length?
Date: Feb 15, 2005
Another reason not to cut the front stick: When I was going to send my stick to Todd Rudberg to get bent, he needed the full length as it comes from Van's. In the process of bending, they needed the extra length that would be cut off after it had the S bend in it. I ordered a new one, which almost for sure means there is a straight one in the excess parts pile in my shop that is cut to clear the panel. Terry 8A #80729 finishing Seattle I would suggest you hold off until you decide whether or not going you are going to create an 'S' bend. This will come after you have installed your seat frame and mock upholstery (crudely cut pieces of pink foam). I cut mine at panel height and now realize that I want the 'S' bend. Don't know if it will be too short, hence my recommendation to wait. Vince Himsl RV8 - VSB Finish -----Original message----- From: "Jack Blomgren" jackanet(at)hotmail.com Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2005 11:34:09 -0800 Subject: RV8-List: -8 Front stick length? > > -8, 8A Drivers, > > Any consensus out there on front stick length (overall height w/control grip > installed) Are any cutting stick to the extent grip will clear forward > under a standard panel? All comments welcome. > > Jack ________________________________________________________________________________
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
Subject: Aileron balance
Date: Feb 16, 2005
I just fitted my ailerons on the wings and find that they are not balanced, i.e. they tend to drop when held horizontally. Any thoughts on this issue? Should ailerons be perfectly balanced as elevators should? Michle RV8 - wings - France ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: Aileron balance
Date: Feb 16, 2005
Michle, I understand from previous postings on the RV list (including some by folks at Van's Aircraft) that Van designed the ailerons only to be partially balanced by that iron water pipe in the nose. In other words, the ailerons are not designed to be perfectly balanced. Stephen Soule Swanton, Vermont RV-6A N227RV flying RV-8 N222SZ under construction -----Original Message----- I just fitted my ailerons on the wings and find that they are not balanced, i.e. they tend to drop when held horizontally. Any thoughts on this issue? Should ailerons be perfectly balanced as elevators should? Michle RV8 - wings - France ________________________________________________________________________________
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
Subject: Aileron balance
Date: Feb 16, 2005
Thanks Stephen - figure that if I had to balance, would require a fair amount of weight since the arm is pretty small, and Vans would have designed it differently so that weight could be added or removed. Michle > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list- > server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stephen J. Soule > Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2005 1:13 PM > To: 'rv8-list(at)matronics.com' > Subject: RE: RV8-List: Aileron balance > > > Michle, > > I understand from previous postings on the RV list (including some by > folks > at Van's Aircraft) that Van designed the ailerons only to be partially > balanced by that iron water pipe in the nose. In other words, the ailerons > are not designed to be perfectly balanced. > > Stephen Soule > Swanton, Vermont > RV-6A N227RV flying > RV-8 N222SZ under construction > > -----Original Message----- > > I just fitted my ailerons on the wings and find that they are not > balanced, > i.e. they tend to drop when held horizontally. Any thoughts on this issue? > Should ailerons be perfectly balanced as elevators should? > > Michle > RV8 - wings - France > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: Quick build RV-8 gear leg drilling question
Date: Feb 16, 2005
I have the RV-8 quick build fuselage. I have (finally) squared the gear legs and drilled them to the gear leg boxes. The outer wear bars (can't recall the part number) on each side have two 1/4 inch bolt holes that have to be drilled. Since the bottom skin is already riveted in place, the only way to get at them is through the cockpit side. How did you quick build builders drill these holes? Van's construction manual says to measure for the holes, but does not provide any information about how this is to be done. Practical advice is greatly needed. Stephen Soule Swanton, Vermont Quick build RV-8 gear leg drilling question I have the RV-8 quick build fuselage. I have (finally) squared the gear legs and drilled them to the gear leg boxes. The outer wear bars (can't recall the part number) on each side have two 1/4 inch bolt holes that have to be drilled. Since the bottom skin is already riveted in place, the only way to get at them is through the cockpit side. How did you quick build builders drill these holes? Van's construction manual says to measure for the holes, but does not provide any information about how this is to be done. Practical advice is greatly needed. Stephen Soule Swanton, Vermont ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 16, 2005
From: rveighta <rveighta(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Quick build RV-8 gear leg drilling question
Stephen, what you're "measuring" for is the spot to drill a hole through the BOTTOM skin for the 1/4" bolts on each side of the wear plates. Make the hole big enough for a 1/4" socket to fit through. The holes won't show once the top intersection fairings are in place. Walt Shipley RV8A flyin' RV8 QB finish kit -----Original Message----- From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> Subject: RV8-List: Quick build RV-8 gear leg drilling question I have the RV-8 quick build fuselage. I have (finally) squared the gear legs and drilled them to the gear leg boxes. The outer wear bars (can't recall the part number) on each side have two 1/4 inch bolt holes that have to be drilled. Since the bottom skin is already riveted in place, the only way to get at them is through the cockpit side. How did you quick build builders drill these holes? Van's construction manual says to measure for the holes, but does not provide any information about how this is to be done. Practical advice is greatly needed. Stephen Soule Swanton, Vermont Quick build RV-8 gear leg drilling question I have the RV-8 quick build fuselage. I have (finally) squared the gear legs and drilled them to the gear leg boxes. The outer wear bars (can't recall the part number) on each side have two 1/4 inch bolt holes that have to be drilled. Since the bottom skin is already riveted in place, the only way to get at them is through the cockpit side. How did you quick build builders drill these holes? Van's construction manual says to measure for the holes, but does not provide any information about how this is to be done. Practical advice is greatly needed. Stephen Soule Swanton, Vermont ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Schilling Karl <Karl.Schilling(at)ssfhs.org>
Subject: Quick build RV-8 gear leg drilling question
Date: Feb 16, 2005
You need to make holes in the skin on the outside. You're gear leg farings will cover them when you are finished. -----Original Message----- From: Stephen J. Soule [mailto:SSoule(at)pfclaw.com] Subject: RV8-List: Quick build RV-8 gear leg drilling question I have the RV-8 quick build fuselage. I have (finally) squared the gear legs and drilled them to the gear leg boxes. The outer wear bars (can't recall the part number) on each side have two 1/4 inch bolt holes that have to be drilled. Since the bottom skin is already riveted in place, the only way to get at them is through the cockpit side. How did you quick build builders drill these holes? Van's construction manual says to measure for the holes, but does not provide any information about how this is to be done. Practical advice is greatly needed. Stephen Soule Swanton, Vermont Quick build RV-8 gear leg drilling question I have the RV-8 quick build fuselage. I have (finally) squared the gear legs and drilled them to the gear leg boxes. The outer wear bars (can't recall the part number) on each side have two 1/4 inch bolt holes that have to be drilled. Since the bottom skin is already riveted in place, the only way to get at them is through the cockpit side. How did you quick build builders drill these holes? Van's construction manual says to measure for the holes, but does not provide any information about how this is to be done. Practical advice is greatly needed. Stephen Soule Swanton, Vermont __________________________________ The information contained in this email and any accompanying documents is intended for the sole use of the recipient to whom it is addressed, and may contain information that is privileged, confidential, and prohibited from disclosure under applicable law. If you are not the intended recipient, or authorized to receive this on behalf of the recipient, you are hereby notified that any review, use, disclosure, copying, or distribution is prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient(s), please contact the sender by e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message. Thank you. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: Quick build RV-8 gear leg drilling question
Date: Feb 16, 2005
Walt, That makes everything a lot more simple. I suppose that once I look at the manual tonight I will realize that is exactly what the manual says and I was making it a lot harder than it had to be, right? Steve -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rveighta Subject: Re: RV8-List: Quick build RV-8 gear leg drilling question Stephen, what you're "measuring" for is the spot to drill a hole through the BOTTOM skin for the 1/4" bolts on each side of the wear plates. Make the hole big enough for a 1/4" socket to fit through. The holes won't show once the top intersection fairings are in place. Walt Shipley RV8A flyin' RV8 QB finish kit -----Original Message----- From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> Subject: RV8-List: Quick build RV-8 gear leg drilling question I have the RV-8 quick build fuselage. I have (finally) squared the gear legs and drilled them to the gear leg boxes. The outer wear bars (can't recall the part number) on each side have two 1/4 inch bolt holes that have to be drilled. Since the bottom skin is already riveted in place, the only way to get at them is through the cockpit side. How did you quick build builders drill these holes? Van's construction manual says to measure for the holes, but does not provide any information about how this is to be done. Practical advice is greatly needed. Stephen Soule Swanton, Vermont Quick build RV-8 gear leg drilling question I have the RV-8 quick build fuselage. I have (finally) squared the gear legs and drilled them to the gear leg boxes. The outer wear bars (can't recall the part number) on each side have two 1/4 inch bolt holes that have to be drilled. Since the bottom skin is already riveted in place, the only way to get at them is through the cockpit side. How did you quick build builders drill these holes? Van's construction manual says to measure for the holes, but does not provide any information about how this is to be done. Practical advice is greatly needed. Stephen Soule Swanton, Vermont advertising on the Matronics Forums. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 16, 2005
From: rveighta <rveighta(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Quick build RV-8 gear leg drilling question
Steve, hey, we've all been there. For a while I didn't realize there was a left and right gear leg and had them on backwards!! Walt -----Original Message----- From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> Subject: RE: RV8-List: Quick build RV-8 gear leg drilling question Walt, That makes everything a lot more simple. I suppose that once I look at the manual tonight I will realize that is exactly what the manual says and I was making it a lot harder than it had to be, right? Steve -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rveighta Subject: Re: RV8-List: Quick build RV-8 gear leg drilling question Stephen, what you're "measuring" for is the spot to drill a hole through the BOTTOM skin for the 1/4" bolts on each side of the wear plates. Make the hole big enough for a 1/4" socket to fit through. The holes won't show once the top intersection fairings are in place. Walt Shipley RV8A flyin' RV8 QB finish kit -----Original Message----- From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> Subject: RV8-List: Quick build RV-8 gear leg drilling question I have the RV-8 quick build fuselage. I have (finally) squared the gear legs and drilled them to the gear leg boxes. The outer wear bars (can't recall the part number) on each side have two 1/4 inch bolt holes that have to be drilled. Since the bottom skin is already riveted in place, the only way to get at them is through the cockpit side. How did you quick build builders drill these holes? Van's construction manual says to measure for the holes, but does not provide any information about how this is to be done. Practical advice is greatly needed. Stephen Soule Swanton, Vermont Quick build RV-8 gear leg drilling question I have the RV-8 quick build fuselage. I have (finally) squared the gear legs and drilled them to the gear leg boxes. The outer wear bars (can't recall the part number) on each side have two 1/4 inch bolt holes that have to be drilled. Since the bottom skin is already riveted in place, the only way to get at them is through the cockpit side. How did you quick build builders drill these holes? Van's construction manual says to measure for the holes, but does not provide any information about how this is to be done. Practical advice is greatly needed. Stephen Soule Swanton, Vermont advertising on the Matronics Forums. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Aileron balance
Date: Feb 16, 2005
I'm not an aerospace engineer, but I am a mechanical engineer. The thing about a control surface needing to be statically balanced at it's hinge line is not absolute. Having mass ahead of the hinge line generally helps with dynamic stability of the control surface (as does the linkage tightness, aerodynamics, etc.). But whether it's exactly balanced or not is not a direct indication of whether or not the control system will be free of flutter. Point being, it doesn't have to balance exactly to work. With the RVs, I trust Van 99% (sorry, I am an engineer & pilot and have some of my own opinions). I built mine as the plans say - pipe only in the aileron LE. Works fantastic after 713 hrs. Good luck. Bryan Houston >I just fitted my ailerons on the wings and find that they are not balanced, >i.e. they tend to drop when held horizontally. Any thoughts on this issue? >Should ailerons be perfectly balanced as elevators should? > >Michle >RV8 - wings - France > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RV 8 Wing & Empennage FOR SALE
Date: Feb 17, 2005
From: "Textor, Jack" <jtextor(at)thepalmergroup.com>
Hello all, Wanted you to know I have decided to sell my RV8 empennage and wing kits. I have been busy at work and finances just won't allow me to complete it as fast as I would like to. The attached file details the progress. Workmanship is very good, empennage is basically complete, one wing is ready to close, the other is ready to skin, and tanks are done. To purchase the two kits and accessories today it would cost $7800. I will consider serious offers. Pictures of the empennage can be seen at http://mykitplane.com/Planes/photoGalleryList2.cfm?AlbumID153. Wing pictures are at http://mykitplane.com/Planes/photoGalleryList2.cfm?AlbumID156. I plan to keep the tools. Best regards to all! Jack Jack Textor Vice President Palmer Group 515-225-7000 www.thepalmergroup.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 2005
From: Bill Murrish <bmurrish(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV 8 Wing & Empennage FOR SALE
Jack, just wanted to let you know that the links are not working. "Textor, Jack" Hello all, Wanted you to know I have decided to sell my RV8 empennage and wing kits. I have been busy at work and finances just won't allow me to complete it as fast as I would like to. The attached file details the progress. Workmanship is very good, empennage is basically complete, one wing is ready to close, the other is ready to skin, and tanks are done. To purchase the two kits and accessories today it would cost $7800. I will consider serious offers. Pictures of the empennage can be seen at http://mykitplane.com/Planes/photoGalleryList2.cfm?AlbumID153. Wing pictures are at http://mykitplane.com/Planes/photoGalleryList2.cfm?AlbumID156. I plan to keep the tools. Best regards to all! Jack Jack Textor Vice President Palmer Group 515-225-7000 www.thepalmergroup.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <flynlow(at)usaviator.net>
Subject: RV 8 Wing & Empennage FOR SALE
Date: Feb 17, 2005
YOU SHOULD NOTE THAT YOUR LINKS DO NOT WORK. Bud Silvers -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Textor, Jack Subject: RV8-List: RV 8 Wing & Empennage FOR SALE Hello all, Wanted you to know I have decided to sell my RV8 empennage and wing kits. I have been busy at work and finances just won't allow me to complete it as fast as I would like to. The attached file details the progress. Workmanship is very good, empennage is basically complete, one wing is ready to close, the other is ready to skin, and tanks are done. To purchase the two kits and accessories today it would cost $7800. I will consider serious offers. Pictures of the empennage can be seen at http://mykitplane.com/Planes/photoGalleryList2.cfm?AlbumID153. Wing pictures are at http://mykitplane.com/Planes/photoGalleryList2.cfm?AlbumID156. I plan to keep the tools. Best regards to all! Jack Jack Textor Vice President Palmer Group 515-225-7000 www.thepalmergroup.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 2005
From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV 8 Wing & Empennage FOR SALE
Stick an = between the ID and the 153 and it will work. Not sure who or what is stripping that out. Mickey Textor, Jack wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: "Textor, Jack" > > Hello all, > > Wanted you to know I have decided to sell my RV8 empennage and wing > kits. I have been busy at work and finances just won't allow me to > complete it as fast as I would like to. The attached file details the > progress. Workmanship is very good, empennage is basically complete, > one wing is ready to close, the other is ready to skin, and tanks are > done. To purchase the two kits and accessories today it would cost > $7800. I will consider serious offers. Pictures of the empennage can > be seen at > http://mykitplane.com/Planes/photoGalleryList2.cfm?AlbumID153. Wing > pictures are at > http://mykitplane.com/Planes/photoGalleryList2.cfm?AlbumID156. I plan > to keep the tools. > > Best regards to all! > > Jack -- Mickey Coggins http://www.rv8.ch/ #82007 Wiring ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RV8 empannage and wing project For Sale
Date: Feb 25, 2005
From: "Textor, Jack" <jtextor(at)thepalmergroup.com>
Hi all, Thanks for the nice response to my earlier post regarding the sale of my project. To make it a little easier I "threw" together a web site last weekend. For more details on the project go to www.textorfamily.com <http://www.textorfamily.com/> . Thanks Jack Textor ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wally Allington" <chilipepper(at)summergrove.net>
Subject: RV-8 Canopy
Date: Feb 27, 2005
I read somewhere someone had mounted their canopy using epoxy instead of screws and had very good results. Has anyone heard or read this also? Installing my canopy is next on the list and would like more information on glue vs screw if anyone is familiar with this. Wally - Atlanta ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DAYTONASKYHAWK(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 27, 2005
Subject: Re: RV-8 Canopy
I have seen the canopy's mounted with Proseal with good results. Mike Kelly ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: RV-8 Canopy
Date: Feb 27, 2005
All long eze and VariEze canopies are epoxied in. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Wally Allington" <chilipepper(at)summergrove.net> Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 Canopy > > > I read somewhere someone had mounted their canopy using epoxy instead of > screws and had very good results. Has anyone heard or read this also? > Installing my canopy is next on the list and would like more information > on glue vs screw if anyone is familiar with this. Wally - > Atlanta > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 27, 2005
From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject: Re: RV-8 Canopy
Hi Wally, This is the right way to do it, and the way I'll be doing it. I've got a couple articles on my site about it: http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story=20040916070516135 http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story=20040515213437823 and another great article is here: http://www2.mstewart.net:8080/super8/bbcanopy/gluingyourcanopy.htm BTW, Barefoot Billy seems to live very close to you. Give him a call! Mickey Wally Allington wrote: > > I read somewhere someone had mounted their canopy using epoxy instead of > screws and had very good results. Has anyone heard or read this also? > Installing my canopy is next on the list and would like more information > on glue vs screw if anyone is familiar with this. Wally - > Atlanta > -- Mickey Coggins http://www.rv8.ch/ #82007 Wiring ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <groves(at)epix.net>
Subject: Re: RV-8 Canopy
Date: Feb 27, 2005
> Go to Mike Stewarts web site, its called sikaflex, its how I plan to do my canopy. Good Luck Kirk > From: "Wally Allington" <chilipepper(at)summergrove.net> > Date: 2005/02/27 Sun PM 02:37:53 EST > To: > Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 Canopy > > > I read somewhere someone had mounted their canopy using epoxy instead of > screws and had very good results. Has anyone heard or read this also? > Installing my canopy is next on the list and would like more information > on glue vs screw if anyone is familiar with this. Wally - > Atlanta > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jacob & Grace" <grizzlybear(at)klondiker.com>
Subject: Re: RV-8 Canopy
Date: Feb 27, 2005
SikaFlex 295 U is the stuff...I have instructions if you want them. ----- Original Message ----- From: <groves(at)epix.net> Subject: Re: RV8-List: RV-8 Canopy > > >> Go to Mike Stewarts web site, its called sikaflex, its how I plan to do >> my canopy. > Good Luck > Kirk > > >> From: "Wally Allington" <chilipepper(at)summergrove.net> >> Date: 2005/02/27 Sun PM 02:37:53 EST >> To: >> Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 Canopy >> >> >> >> I read somewhere someone had mounted their canopy using epoxy instead of >> screws and had very good results. Has anyone heard or read this also? >> Installing my canopy is next on the list and would like more information >> on glue vs screw if anyone is familiar with this. Wally - >> Atlanta >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Trio Avionics Auto Pilot Servo Location
Date: Feb 28, 2005
From: "Alexander, Don" <Don.Alexander(at)astenjohnson.com>
From those who have gone before, in our RV-8's, is there a consensus as to where the most logical mounting point is for a wing leveler servo? Thanks in Advance Don ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 28, 2005
From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject: Re: Trio Avionics Auto Pilot Servo Location
Hi Don, Here is how I did it: http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story=20040910173454452 and http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story=20041023174407440 Mickey Alexander, Don wrote: > >>From those who have gone before, in our RV-8's, is there a consensus as > to where the most logical mounting point is for a wing leveler servo? > Thanks in Advance > Don > -- Mickey Coggins http://www.rv8.ch/ #82007 Wiring ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 04, 2005
From: Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com>
Subject: magnetometer in an RV-8?
vansairforce Where are you -8 builders putting your magnetometers for your Blue Mountains and your Dynons? Some ideas and photos would be great! Thanks! -Bill www.rv8a.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 06, 2005
From: Don McNamara <N8RV(at)gte.net>
Subject: Brake master cylinders
"RV-8 list (Matronics)" Several builders have replaced the stock brake master cylinder setup with ones that eliminate the brake fluid reservoir on the firewall and all of the associated tubing. I've searched everywhere and can't seem to find the part numbers for the right replacement master cylinders, although I believe people were buying them from Aircraft Spruce or Wicks. Searches of this forum didn't turn up any info. Anybody out there know? And, while on the subject, has anyone made the swap and regretted it? Any chance to simplify systems sounds good to me right now ... Thanks, Don McNamara N8RV ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 06, 2005
From: Don McNamara <N8RV(at)gte.net>
Subject: Wing vent
"RV-8 list (Matronics)" My wing kit was made before they started pre-punching the NACA vent in the bottom of the right wing for passenger ventilation. I can't seem to find any reference in the plans for WHERE this vent should go. Before I start cutting sheet metal, can someone give me an idea where this goes? Thanks, Don McNamara N8RV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Stone" <jrstone(at)insightbb.com>
Subject: Re: Brake master cylinders
Date: Mar 06, 2005
Don, Are you sure what you are looking for is not the small reservoirs that screw onto each master cylinder? Jim Stone ----- Original Message ----- From: "Don McNamara" <N8RV(at)gte.net> Subject: RV8-List: Brake master cylinders > > Several builders have replaced the stock brake master cylinder setup > with ones that eliminate the brake fluid reservoir on the firewall and > all of the associated tubing. I've searched everywhere and can't seem to > find the part numbers for the right replacement master cylinders, > although I believe people were buying them from Aircraft Spruce or > Wicks. Searches of this forum didn't turn up any info. Anybody out > there know? > > And, while on the subject, has anyone made the swap and regretted it? > Any chance to simplify systems sounds good to me right now ... > > Thanks, > > Don McNamara > N8RV > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 06, 2005
From: Don McNamara <N8RV(at)gte.net>
Subject: Re: Brake master cylinders
Thanks for the replies, guys. Yeah, Jim, those are the buggers. I ordered them from Aircraft Spruce just now. Couldn't find them in the catalog I had, and didn't remember exactly what they were. I thought you had to buy the whole enchilada, not just the screw-in reservoirs. I appreciate all the help. You guys are great! -- Don ________________________________________________________________________________
From: UALPILOT3(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 06, 2005
Subject: Re: Wing vent
Don, It goes under the right wing. However, I never use mine because it brings in a lot of noise from the exhaust. My RV-8 friends have the same problem. I would locate it further out on the wing if mine had not been prepunched. Les ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Wing vent
Date: Mar 06, 2005
From: "Textor, Jack" <jtextor(at)thepalmergroup.com>
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Subject: Wing vent
Date: Mar 06, 2005
From: "Textor, Jack" <jtextor(at)thepalmergroup.com>
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Subject: Wing vent
Date: Mar 06, 2005
From: "Textor, Jack" <jtextor(at)thepalmergroup.com>
Don and list, I don't know what that last post was...will try again. The front of the vent is 7 and 3/4" from the front edge of the skin. The back of the vent is 15 and 1/4" from the trailing edge of the skin edge. Th centerline of the vent is 13" from the inboard edge of the skin. Hope that help. Jack Textor -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don McNamara Subject: RV8-List: Wing vent My wing kit was made before they started pre-punching the NACA vent in the bottom of the right wing for passenger ventilation. I can't seem to find any reference in the plans for WHERE this vent should go. Before I start cutting sheet metal, can someone give me an idea where this goes? Thanks, Don McNamara N8RV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Wing vent
Date: Mar 06, 2005
> >Don and list, >I don't know what that last post was...will try again. The front of the >vent is 7 and 3/4" from the front edge of the skin. The back of the >vent is 15 and 1/4" from the trailing edge of the skin edge. Th >centerline of the vent is 13" from the inboard edge of the skin. Hope >that help. >Jack Textor > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don McNamara >To: RV-8 group; RV-8 list (Matronics) >Subject: RV8-List: Wing vent > > >My wing kit was made before they started pre-punching the NACA vent in >the bottom of the right wing for passenger ventilation. I can't seem to >find any reference in the plans for WHERE this vent should go. Before I >start cutting sheet metal, can someone give me an idea where this goes? > >Thanks, > >Don McNamara >N8RV Lads, My wing kit came with the hole cut in the skin as per Jack's specs. It provides plenty of air, but also lets in a lot of exhaust and prop noise. The cabin is always noisiest while flying dual in the summertime heat. Makes me wonder if a side cabin vent ala RV10 would work better for the back seater. Brian Denk RV8 N94BD RV10 '51 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 06, 2005
From: John Huft <rv8(at)lazy8.net>
Subject: Re: Brake master cylinders
Don, the gotcha is that if you have the pedals in their forward-most position, those reservoirs will hit the firewall, and either limit travel, or break off. I am 5'11" and mine are in the second notch back. John Huft, RV8 Don McNamara wrote: > >Thanks for the replies, guys. > >Yeah, Jim, those are the buggers. I ordered them from Aircraft Spruce just >now. Couldn't find them in the catalog I had, and didn't remember exactly what >they were. I thought you had to buy the whole enchilada, not just the screw-in >reservoirs. > >I appreciate all the help. You guys are great! > >-- Don > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Brake master cylinders
Date: Mar 07, 2005
> > >Don, the gotcha is that if you have the pedals in their forward-most >position, those reservoirs will hit the firewall, and either limit >travel, or break off. I am 5'11" and mine are in the second notch back. > >John Huft, RV8 > > Same here, at 5'10" with pedals in the same position. I still greatly prefer this setup vs. the runs of fugly looking tubing with red fluid and visible bubbles that won't ever go away. Brian Denk RV8 N94BD RV10 '51 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 06, 2005
From: "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Brake master cylinders
I got mine at Aircraft Spruce . . . P/N - A-600 http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/reservoirs.php I don't have any fluid in them yet so can't tell you how they work . . . but I liked the idea of getting rid of the plastic hoses. Good Luck, Bob > > Several builders have replaced the stock brake master cylinder setup > with ones that eliminate the brake fluid reservoir on the firewall and > all of the associated tubing. I've searched everywhere and can't seem to > find the part numbers for the right replacement master cylinders, > although I believe people were buying them from Aircraft Spruce or > Wicks. Searches of this forum didn't turn up any info. Anybody out > there know? > > And, while on the subject, has anyone made the swap and regretted it? > Any chance to simplify systems sounds good to me right now ... > > Thanks, > > Don McNamara > N8RV > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 06, 2005
From: Don McNamara <N8RV(at)gte.net>
Subject: Re: Brake master cylinders
So, with my pedals in the SECOND notch from the firewall, I'll be OK, right? (I ran out and looked -- that's where mine are) --Don N8RV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: Re: Brake master cylinders
Date: Mar 06, 2005
These are working well for me so far. http://bowenaero.com/mt3/archives/2004/05/brake_master_cy.html - Larry Bowen, RV-8, ~70 Hrs. Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com > -----Original Message----- > From: John Huft [mailto:rv8(at)lazy8.net] > Sent: Sunday, March 06, 2005 7:05 PM > To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV8-List: Re: Brake master cylinders > > > Don, the gotcha is that if you have the pedals in their > forward-most position, those reservoirs will hit the > firewall, and either limit travel, or break off. I am 5'11" > and mine are in the second notch back. > > John Huft, RV8 > > > Don McNamara wrote: > > > > >Thanks for the replies, guys. > > > >Yeah, Jim, those are the buggers. I ordered them from > Aircraft Spruce > >just now. Couldn't find them in the catalog I had, and > didn't remember > >exactly what they were. I thought you had to buy the whole > enchilada, > >not just the screw-in reservoirs. > > > >I appreciate all the help. You guys are great! > > > >-- Don ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Brake master cylinders
Date: Mar 07, 2005
> >So, with my pedals in the SECOND notch from the firewall, I'll be OK, >right? >(I ran out and looked -- that's where mine are) > >--Don > N8RV > Yes. Just to be sure, check for full rudder deflection anyway. If you install firewall insulation, check it again! Brian Denk ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ian Findlay" <ianjo(at)omninet.net.au>
Subject: Address change
Date: Mar 10, 2005
Hello to All in our address book, So that you may update your address book please note that our email address changed Tuesday 9 March at 1700hrs to : ianjo7(at)bigpond.com Cheers, Ian and Joan Findlay (ianjo7) Narrikup WA 6326 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kevin Shannon" <kshannon(at)seanet.com>
Subject: engine baffles
Date: Mar 11, 2005
I bought an IO360 A1B6 for my 8 that was removed from a Beech Sierra. It is a complete fwf, came with the baffles still on it. I was pleasantly surprised to find out that the baffling fits the RV cowling pretty good, with only minor modifications necessary. Kevin Shannon ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 11, 2005
From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject: Parking brake cable
Hi, I've got the Matco parking brake installed, and I'm trying to figure out the best way to actuate it. Has anyone else installed this? http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story=20041117212045565 The problem is that the natural thing to do is to pull a bowden cable to actuate the brake, but the way I have this installed, pulling would be to release. When the lever is up, the brake valve is open. Thanks for any hints! Mickey -- Mickey Coggins http://www.rv8.ch/ #82007 Wiring ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jacob & Grace" <grizzlybear(at)klondiker.com>
Subject: Re: Parking brake cable
Date: Mar 11, 2005
I fastened a 6" arm of light angle directly to the lever. It has a "stop" sign riveted on the end with "park brake" written. It moves down between my legs when applied (hard to miss!). When raised it latches to the cockpit cross brace. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> Subject: RV8-List: Parking brake cable > > Hi, > > I've got the Matco parking brake installed, and I'm trying > to figure out the best way to actuate it. Has anyone else > installed this? > > http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story=20041117212045565 > > The problem is that the natural thing to do is to pull > a bowden cable to actuate the brake, but the way I > have this installed, pulling would be to release. > When the lever is up, the brake valve is open. > > Thanks for any hints! > Mickey > -- > Mickey Coggins > http://www.rv8.ch/ > #82007 Wiring > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 11, 2005
From: "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Parking brake cable
Mickey, I've been wrestling with the same issue . . . and plan to use a bowden cable through one of the gear boxes (probably the right) . . . all the way to the firewall then loop back to the valve back to the valve . . . it will be pull on - push off. Mine is mounted horizontal with the actuator on the right and connections to the brakes pointed aft with the 45 degree A/N fitting . . . no, the 90 won't work . . . I did get 90s in the ones on the bottom, going to the pedals and I have individual reservoirs on each master cylinder. If anyone has a brilliant idea, send it on. Good Luck, Bob - to be: N678RC wrote: > > Hi, > > I've got the Matco parking brake installed, and I'm trying > to figure out the best way to actuate it. Has anyone else > installed this? > > http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story=20041117212045565 > > The problem is that the natural thing to do is to pull > a bowden cable to actuate the brake, but the way I > have this installed, pulling would be to release. > When the lever is up, the brake valve is open. > > Thanks for any hints! > Mickey > -- > Mickey Coggins > http://www.rv8.ch/ > #82007 Wiring > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg@itmack" <greg(at)itmack.com>
Subject: F804G won't fit
Date: Mar 12, 2005
Hi all, DRG 11A refers to all of this: I'm assembling the F804 wing centre section and I have found that the F804G spacer bolt holes don't line up properly with the F804B. These are already predrilled by Vans for close tolerance bolts so I assume I can't open up the holes. I think that Vans drilled the F804G prior to factory assembling the F804E to the F804B and the holes in the F804G (both sides) were drilled too high, so now the top F804E is riveted in place it interferes with the F804G and therefore the holes seem out of alignment. One way to fix this is to shave a bit off the bottom of the F804G spacers (about 1/32") this would mean a sloppy fit between the F804Es but the bolt holes will retain their tolerance. Regards Greg 82070 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg@itmack" <greg(at)itmack.com>
Subject: Re: F804G won't fit
Date: Mar 12, 2005
Disregard everyone. When I put them in the right way around the F804G fit okay. I was on a night shift last night, that's my excuse and I'm sticking to it. After putting in a couple of the wrong rivets and trying to explode my rivet gun with 100psi I'm calling it a day, before I burn the place down. Tomorrow I'd better check what else I did today. Greg Yawn > > Hi all, DRG 11A refers to all of this: > > I'm assembling the F804 wing centre section and I have found that the F804G spacer bolt holes don't line up properly with the F804B. These are already predrilled by Vans for close tolerance bolts so I assume I can't open up the holes. > > I think that Vans drilled the F804G prior to factory assembling the F804E to the F804B and the holes in the F804G (both sides) were drilled too high, so now the top F804E is riveted in place it interferes with the F804G and therefore the holes seem out of alignment. > > One way to fix this is to shave a bit off the bottom of the F804G spacers (about 1/32") this would mean a sloppy fit between the F804Es but the bolt holes will retain their tolerance. > > Regards > Greg > 82070 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 12, 2005
From: "Don McNamara" <N8RV(at)gte.net>
Subject: Wiring harness
"RV-8 group" Anyone else had fun with Van's wiring harness? I had the harness for the firewall-mounted battery and changed my mind. Rather than horse around unbundling wires, I just ordered the correct harness when I got the FWF kit, thinking that, as long as I stuck with the plans on where to mount things, the harness should bundle all the wires where they should go, right? Well, either this rat's nest is somebody's idea of a joke, or I've got the plans upside-down. For example, the wires to the alternator, mags and the voltage regulator are, according to the plans, the only ones exiting the right side of the firewall into the engine compartment. However, there are a whole boatload of wires bundled alongside, some longer than the mag and v. regulator wires. And, right alongside them are the wires that are supposed to exit the LEFT side of the firewall. Am I supposed to just cut apart the bundles and string the wires where they need to go? If so, then what's the point of a wiring harness in the first place?? Sheesh ... Since Van's is usually right and I'm usually wrong, somebody please tell me where I goofed up. -- Don McNamara N8RV ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 12, 2005
From: "Don McNamara" <N8RV(at)gte.net>
Subject: Wiring harness
"RV-8 group" Uh ... never mind. I think this one falls into the I-had-it-upside-down-and-probably-backwards category. Please disregard my plea for help. This time. There WILL be more to come ... -- Don N8RV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com>
Subject: Wiring harness
Date: Mar 12, 2005
Don: My reply was gonna be: Maybe you have it reversed. I did the same thing. When I got it figured out, it fit perfectly. Al Grajek >From: "Don McNamara" <N8RV(at)gte.net> >Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >To: "RV-8 list (Matronics)" , "RV-8 group" > >Subject: RV8-List: Wiring harness >Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2005 13:48:56 -0500 > > >Uh ... never mind. > >I think this one falls into the I-had-it-upside-down-and-probably-backwards >category. Please disregard my plea for help. This time. > >There WILL be more to come ... > >-- Don > N8RV > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 12, 2005
From: "Don McNamara" <N8RV(at)gte.net>
Subject: Re: Wiring harness
Thanks, Al. Now my biggest concern is why I have two wires headed toward the tail labeled "P9". The plans call for a P8 & a P9 for the flap motor. Maybe I'll figure it out on a new day when I'm not tired of looking at little numbers on little wires. -- Don N8RV ----- Original Message ----- From: "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com> Subject: RE: RV8-List: Wiring harness > > Don: > My reply was gonna be: Maybe you have it reversed. I did the same thing. > When I got it figured out, it fit perfectly. > Al Grajek ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 17, 2005
From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject: Wheel pants and Grove gear
Hi, Anyone have pictures of their wheel pants and the fairing between the wheel pants and the aerodynamic Grove gear? Just looking for ideas. Thanks, Mickey -- Mickey Coggins http://www.rv8.ch/ #82007 Wiring ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 17, 2005
From: John Huft <rv8(at)lazy8.net>
Subject: Re: Wheel pants and Grove gear
http://www.lazy8.net/gear.htm Mickey Coggins wrote: > >Hi, > >Anyone have pictures of their wheel pants and the >fairing between the wheel pants and the aerodynamic >Grove gear? Just looking for ideas. > >Thanks, >Mickey > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 17, 2005
From: "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com>
Subject: ACS analog unit?
Where have you "RV-8 Builders" been mounting the analog unit for the ACS Engine Monitor? Thanks, Bob Christensen RV-8 - N678RC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tony Johnson" <tonyjohnson(at)cfl.rr.com>
Subject: ACS analog unit?
Date: Mar 17, 2005
Bob, I have not gotten that far yet. Tony -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob C. Subject: RV8-List: ACS analog unit? Where have you "RV-8 Builders" been mounting the analog unit for the ACS Engine Monitor? Thanks, Bob Christensen RV-8 - N678RC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mark Russell <mark(at)rv8tor.com>
Subject: Re: ACS analog unit?
Date: Mar 17, 2005
I mounted it below the "z-bar" on the bulkhead that is the "back" of the instrument panel area. let me know if you want a pic. -mark russell On Mar 17, 2005, at 5:03 PM, Tony Johnson wrote: > > Bob, > > I have not gotten that far yet. > > Tony > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob C. > To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV8-List: ACS analog unit? > > > Where have you "RV-8 Builders" been mounting the analog unit for the > ACS Engine Monitor? > > Thanks, > Bob Christensen > RV-8 - N678RC > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Van's Aircraft Belt Buckles For Sale
Date: Mar 18, 2005
I have high quality "Van's Aircraft - Total Performance" belt buckles for sale. I have also recently updated my site with better pictures, and customer comments. Please check them out at: http://home.earthlink.net/~gbrasch/ Thank you, Glenn Brasch, Tucson RV-9A fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Clark, Thomas M UTPWR" <Tom.Clark(at)utcfuelcells.com>
Subject: Van's Fuel Gauges????
Date: Mar 21, 2005
RV Team, I have now had two in flight issues with Van's fuel level gauges and was wondering if anyone else has had problems. Both failures were a slow burning on the internal circuit board and resulted in some very interesting smoke and smell in the cockpit. First failure was at 17 hours and the second at 85 hours. Both units were purchased late last spring. Current draw was not enough to blow the 3 amp CB. Has anyone on the list had a Van's fuel gauge failure? Called Van's and the customer service rep said they had not had any problems with them?? Tom Clark RV8 Fastback 525TC ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 21, 2005
From: "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com>
Subject: GNS430?
Has anyone out there installed a Garmin GNS430 near the bottom of an RV-8 panel, just above the Z cross-brace? . . . It may end up resting on the Z-brace? . . . I want it right below where the DG would be in a normal "6 pack" (I will have a BMA "Lite" in that position. I've not seen any pictures with one installed in that position is the reason for the question . . . I seem to be the natural position for it to me . . . am I asking for trouble? Thanks, Bob Christensen RV-8 - N678RC - FWF/Panel/Finishing-slowly! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg@itmack" <greg(at)itmack.com>
Subject: F887 main longerons
Date: Mar 24, 2005
Hi all, I just finished bending and twisting the longerons and attaching them to the jig with the bulkheads. I find that the longerons bow out at the F804 and I have to clamp them to stay on the WD802, the longerons want to sit about an inch or two out from the WD802. Using a straight edge between the F807 and the firewall the F804 does not line up. It's as if the F804 was too wide. My understanding is that the longeron should be a straight line between the F807 and the WD802 but mine have a slight curve mostly forward of the F804 is this normal or have I got a problem? I have checked the distance from the firewall to all of the bulkheads at least 3 times so I don't think the problem is there and the F806 floor structure fits in okay and everything is centred (the bow is on both sides). Greg ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 24, 2005
Subject: Re: F887 main longerons
From: Ted P Utley <tpu2(at)juno.com>
Greg, the best advice I had, and eventually took, was to tape a 10 ft or so string (straight line) to the shop floor. I then marked the long's and string with marks where the bends were to occur. Use a tape to measure in from the line, and up from the floor to get a "3d" measurement. The plans had some pretty good dimensions (I think) for the bends. After a few tries, the longs fit pretty well. I still ended up with a slight bow along the cockpit rails, but the rails riveted on fine, and now you can't tell. I don't think its probable that your F804 is too wide. From your post, it sounds like you're trying to make one bend at the 807. This bend should be enough to form the straight line from the 807 to the 804. The tricky part is the next bend/twist. Just fwd of the 804 flange the long's will have have another bend to the 802s. Make sure you have a twist that matches the 802 weldment. The twist will go aft almost all the way to the 807s. If you look at the cockpit rails, you can see how they lay on what will eventually be your longerons. Notice how the rails become flat just fwd of the 807s. Ideally, the longs would match that. I can assure you from looking at others, and building mine, alot of them are gonna be off a little. It could be a problem if it was extreme, when you install the canopy rails. Hope this helps a little. BTW, nothing during the fuse construction perplexed me more than bending the longs..... Ted Utley 8A wiring/plumbing .> > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 29, 2005
Subject: LSE ignition
From: "romeo.victor@t-online.de" <romeo.victor@t-online.de>
Dear RV guys, I installed my LSE ignition Plasma III instead of the right magneto. By assistance of Klaus Savier everything works fine, except starting process. The problem will be the wiring of my ACS keyswitch. I connected the wire from the input plug to "R" of my keyswitch. There is a ignition process as long as you hold the starter, when you release it ignition and engine stops. I changed wiring from the input plug to "L/R" of the keyswitch. Engine starts perfectly but I can't check the electronic ignition solely during runup. Ideas? -- RV8 D-EBRV Stephan J.W. Servatius Untere Hauptstr. 3 85461 Bockhorn GERMANY Tel. +49 8122 483 83 Fax. +49 8122 902 188 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tony Johnson" <tonyjohnson(at)cfl.rr.com>
Subject: LSE ignition
Date: Mar 29, 2005
Stephan, I have been considering the best way to arrange ignition switches for my RV8A with one mag and one EI. I had pretty much decided to go with a key switch, until I learned of some safety issues with using a key switch. One RV4 accident occurred when the key switch failed and turned off the mags. Below is another similar story, from the areo electric list: It was a dark and stormy night... Well, actually >it was a bright and sunny day but it still scared me. >While landing my Glasair, about halfway down the runway my engine quit. >I was unable to get the engine restarted again, and after >some limited troubleshooting I think I have traced the >problem down to the ignition key switch. It is a >Cessna key switch model A-510, part # C292501-0105. > > Would anyone happen to have a schematic for this >key switch? I think the way it works is that it simply >grounds (connects the p-lead wire to the >p-lead shield which is grounded at the magneto) >when switched to the OFF position, and leaves >the p-lead disconnected (ie, "open") when in the >BOTH position. Referring to Z-26 seems to follow this logic. >Using my multimeter, I was able to >determine that the p-leads for both mags are connected to >the p-lead shield (ie, "grounded") in all four >positions of the key switch, OFF, R, L, and BOTH. >I measured this without removing any wires from >the keyswitch. > > Am I on the right track, or should I be >chasing some other gremlin? Should I remove >the wires from the keyswitch and test it separately? > > If I do definitely determine that the >keyswitch is the problem, I'm dumping it and replacing it >with two switches and a push button. Seems silly to have >a redundant ignition system tied to a single point of >failure like this, especially after it scared the >cr*p out of me. > >Thanks, > >-Dj I am now planning on having two toggle switches for my ignition. Just thought that I would pass this along for your consideration. Tony Johnson RV8A Orlando -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of romeo.victor@t-online.de Subject: RV8-List: LSE ignition <romeo.victor@t-online.de> Dear RV guys, I installed my LSE ignition Plasma III instead of the right magneto. By assistance of Klaus Savier everything works fine, except starting process. The problem will be the wiring of my ACS keyswitch. I connected the wire from the input plug to "R" of my keyswitch. There is a ignition process as long as you hold the starter, when you release it ignition and engine stops. I changed wiring from the input plug to "L/R" of the keyswitch. Engine starts perfectly but I can't check the electronic ignition solely during runup. Ideas? -- RV8 D-EBRV Stephan J.W. Servatius Untere Hauptstr. 3 85461 Bockhorn GERMANY Tel. +49 8122 483 83 Fax. +49 8122 902 188 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jacob & Grace" <grizzlybear(at)klondiker.com>
Subject: Wheel Pant Options
Date: Mar 29, 2005
My RV-8 is coming out of paint and I am trying to arrange the final inspection. Has anyone used or aware of a source for "Wheel Spats". Maule put them on every Maule for years and everyone took them off and threw them away. Now I want to try a set because I have 6" wheels on the 8 and can't find any. They may be a good option for rougher use. 81938 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: LSE ignition
Date: Mar 30, 2005
> >I am now planning on having two toggle switches for my ignition. Just >thought that I would pass this along for your consideration. > >Tony Johnson >RV8A Orlando Absolutely. I have two toggle switches in my airplane for LSE and one mag. Works flawlessly, is simple, lightweight, cheap and reliable. Key switches offer little in the way of true security and add complexity to the critical ignition circuitry in the airplane. Oh, to keep the toggles pointing the same direction (Up for ON or HOT), you just flip the one for the mag over. Brian Denk RV8 N94BD RV10 '51 tailcone trim servo stuff. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Lenleg(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 30, 2005
Subject: Re: LSE ignition
In a message dated 3/29/05 8:47:58 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, tonyjohnson(at)cfl.rr.com writes: Stephan, I have been considering the best way to arrange ignition switches for my RV8A with one mag and one EI. I had pretty much decided to go with a key switch, until I learned of some safety issues with using a key switch. One RV4 accident occurred when the key switch failed and turned off the mags. I have toggle swithces for my mag and EI. No keys ... I keep the plane hangered so I will live with the threat of theft. Works great and I have never forgotten the keys !! Len Leggette, RV-8A Greensboro, N.C. N910LL 337 hrs ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mary Ann Mazzarella" <mario447(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: removal of address
Date: Mar 30, 2005
Plz remove me from the message list. thank you Mario Mazzarella ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jacob & Grace" <grizzlybear(at)klondiker.com> Subject: RV8-List: Wheel Pant Options > > > My RV-8 is coming out of paint and I am trying to arrange the final > inspection. > > Has anyone used or aware of a source for "Wheel Spats". Maule put them on > every Maule for years and everyone took them off and threw them away. Now > I want to try a set because I have 6" wheels on the 8 and can't find any. > They may be a good option for rougher use. > > 81938 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Rowbotham" <davidrowbotham(at)myeastern.com>
Subject: Re: LSE ignition
Date: Mar 30, 2005
Stephan, We have been running our RV-8a in this configuration for the last 300 hrs. Impulse Mag and one Jeff Rose EI's. Both toggle switches are located next to each other on our switch panel. The only down side to the dual switch was an extra hour labor charge from our FBO when they were working on the ac and wasted the hour trying to figure out how to start it instead of calling me. Procedure to start the AC requires energizing the main bus, placing the impulse mag to on, mixture/fuel pump/throttle, and start button on the grip then the EI. It seams complicated but once it is running you can fly the AC without having to reach for a key switch to restart it in case of problems. David Rowbotham RV-8A N712CR In Annual 300+ hrs ----- Original Message ----- From: <Lenleg(at)aol.com> Subject: Re: RV8-List: LSE ignition > > > In a message dated 3/29/05 8:47:58 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, > tonyjohnson(at)cfl.rr.com writes: > > Stephan, > > I have been considering the best way to arrange ignition switches for my > RV8A with one mag and one EI. I had pretty much decided to go with a key > switch, until I learned of some safety issues with using a key switch. > One > RV4 accident occurred when the key switch failed and turned off the mags. > > > I have toggle swithces for my mag and EI. No keys ... I keep the plane > hangered so I will live with the threat of theft. Works great and I have > never > forgotten the keys !! > > Len Leggette, RV-8A > Greensboro, N.C. N910LL > 337 hrs > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: CCHOYA(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 05, 2005
Subject: Flying around the World
This is copy from AV Flash a online aviation news letter. Dave in Toledo _http://www.avweb.com/eletter/archives/avflash/378-full.html#189474_ (http://www.avweb.com/eletter/archives/avflash/378-full.html#189474) RVing Around The World... Homebuilt Pilot Well On His Way Some say that in a homebuilt, every flight is a test flight, and a California pilot is putting his RV-8 through the ringer. While thousands of fellow EAA members and other aviation enthusiasts are getting ready for the annual trip to _Sun 'n Fun_ (http://www.sun-n-fun.org/) in Florida starting April 12 (of course, AVweb will be there with special coverage next Monday, Wednesday, Friday and the following Monday), Bill Randolph, of _EAA Chapter 119_ (http://www.eaa119.org/) in Watsonville, Calif., should have arrived at or be close to Bali, where he'll visit his son on the final leg of his round-the-world trip. Randolph left Watsonville on March 9 and the peppy RV helps him cover some pretty significant distances on each leg. After stops in Abilene, Fort Lauderdale, San Juan, Trinidad and Fortaleza, Brazil, Randolph tackled the Atlantic. The flight from Brazil to Dakar, Senegal, took 14 hours (three hours longer than planned because of headwinds). But Randolph apparently likes flying over water. Chapter 119 is providing daily updates on its Web site based on Randolph's almost daily calls to his wife, Shirley. In his account of the ocean crossing he's reported to have said that he "feels free" over the water. Maybe that's a good thing. About 20,000 miles of his 26,000-mile trip is over water. ...Bureaucracy Slows Him Down... Now, anyone in the surprisingly small club of those who've flown around the world will tell you that the flying is the easy part. It's getting permission to fly in countries that rarely see small private aircraft (let alone homebuilts) that can be the most time-consuming and stressful part of the journey. So far he's dealt with a put-out tribal chief in Senegal, had the Greek air force looking for him (they didn't find him), been surrounded by police and military in Cypress and waded through a quagmire of bureaucracy in India. Ironically, however, one of his most unpleasant experiences was just before leaving the good old U.S. of A., Shirley Randolph told AVweb. Randolph said some of the surliest people her husband has met en route were in Ft. Lauderdale, Fla., where folks at the airport "refused" to help him find a hotel for the night (it was spring break) and appeared otherwise to be generally rude. But she said the nastiness of that encounter has been more than made up by the kindness of strangers along the route, including a hotel owner in Brazil who lent Randolph an expensive headset after his failed. "You can give it back to me when you return, don't worry," Randolph quoted the hotel owner as saying. ...An Elite Club Assuming he makes it, Randolph will be among a handful of people on the list kept by _Earthrounders_ (http://www.earthrounders.com/index.html) who've flown a homebuilt around the world. So far, Australian adventurer Jon Johanson is the only RV owner (on that list) to make the trip and he's done it twice, including a loop over the North Pole, in his RV-4. Randolph's successful jaunt would be another feather in the cap for Van's Aircraft, which makes the RV series of kit planes. (Experimentals -- originating from all manufacturers -- now make up about 10 percent of the GA fleet.) According to the RV company Web site, Randolph's is one of 4,118 flying RVs, making it the most popular homebuilt. In fact, if all those RVs were registered in the U.S. (we don't know how many aren't), they'd represent about 20 percent of the homebuilt total, which weighs in at about 22,000 finished flying aircraft, according to figures supplied to us by the FAA. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 09, 2005
From: "Don McNamara" <N8RV(at)gte.net>
Subject: IO-360 lower cowl
"RV-8 group" Anybody have a lower cowl for an IO-360 to sell? Someone posted many months ago with one to sell, but I can't find the e-mail. When I started this project, the engine choices available to us were far fewer. Now, I need a smooth lower cowl instead of the snorkeled version. If one's available, please contact me off-list (N8RV(at)gte.net) Thanks, Don McNamara N8RV ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 16, 2005
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: [Please Read] Matronics Email Server Upgrade...
Dear Listers, I will be upgrading the Matronics Email Server this weekend. This includes some hardware improvements - more memory, faster, more capable processors - as well as a complete operating system upgrade from scratch. I hope to have both the old system and the new system running at the same time to minimize the actual impact of the upgrade. Hopefully there will be little actual downtime during the transition, but a few posts may get lost in the shuffle. If you don't see your post show up on the List in the normal amount of time (plus a little bit), then please just try posting it again. Upgrading the Matronics Email Server operating system (from Redhat Linux 7.2 to Redhat Linux WS 4) is a sizeable undertaking and requires a great deal of work to port all of the utilities, programs, and scripts over to the new system. As I've already mentioned, both the old and new systems will be on line at the same time, so interruption should be held to an absolute minimal. You might see a couple of odd test messages during the cut-over or other odd messages; please just ignore them. I have setup a new System Status Web Page that I will use to update List Members on the current status of the email and web systems. Please refer to it as often as you like: http://www.matronics.com/SystemStatus/ Thank you for your continued support of the List Services at Matronics! Its your yearly Contributions that make these major upgrades possible! Best regards, Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 17, 2005
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: [Please Read] Matronics Email Server Upgrade Complete!
Dear Listers, The upgrade of the Matronics Email Server can be considered complete at this time. All known issues related to the upgrade process have been resolved and email services are running normal. The Nightly Digest processing has not yet been tested and will wait for tonight's update. If you encounter any odd behavior with respect to the Matronics Email Server over the next few days, please contact me via email at dralle(at)matronics.com or if that fails try dralle(at)speakeasy.net. Thanks to everyone for being patient through this arduous process of a major system upgrade! Matt Dralle Email List Administrator At 12:37 PM 4/16/2005 Saturday, Matt Dralle wrote: >Dear Listers, > >I will be upgrading the Matronics Email Server this weekend. This >includes some hardware improvements - more memory, faster, more capable >processors - as well as a complete operating system upgrade from >scratch. I hope to have both the old system and the new system running at >the same time to minimize the actual impact of the upgrade. > >Hopefully there will be little actual downtime during the transition, but >a few posts may get lost in the shuffle. If you don't see your post show >up on the List in the normal amount of time (plus a little bit), then >please just try posting it again. > >Upgrading the Matronics Email Server operating system (from Redhat Linux >7.2 to Redhat Linux WS 4) is a sizeable undertaking and requires a great >deal of work to port all of the utilities, programs, and scripts over to >the new system. As I've already mentioned, both the old and new systems >will be on line at the same time, so interruption should be held to an >absolute minimal. You might see a couple of odd test messages during the >cut-over or other odd messages; please just ignore them. > >I have setup a new System Status Web Page that I will use to update List >Members on the current status of the email and web systems. Please refer >to it as often as you like: > > http://www.matronics.com/SystemStatus/ > > >Thank you for your continued support of the List Services at >Matronics! Its your yearly Contributions that make these major upgrades >possible! > >Best regards, > >Matt Dralle >Matronics Email List Administrator Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 18, 2005
From: "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Mounting Radios
I'm ready to mount my GNS430, Transponder, and Audio Panel. They look like they'll stick out quite a ways . . . looks like it would be nice to set them back in the panel . . . not quite flush . . . what has been the best solution for mounting radio equipment . . . the traditional way or set back into the panel. Looks like it would be easier the "traditional way"? Thanks, Bob Christensen - N678RC RV-8 Bldr SE Iowa ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 18, 2005
From: Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com>
Subject: Re: Mounting Radios
On 04/18 3:45, Bob C. wrote: > > I'm ready to mount my GNS430, Transponder, and Audio Panel. > > They look like they'll stick out quite a ways . . . looks like it > would be nice to set them back in the panel . . . not quite flush . . > . what has been the best solution for mounting radio equipment . . . > the traditional way or set back into the panel. Mine stick out (all of them) exactly 3/10th of an inch, just shy of the bezel width. It was pretty easy to fabricate the mounts. I think it looks ok. I assume that mounting "methods" are similar for 8's and 7's, but I could be wrong, don't know much about 8's. see entry dated 7/3/04 http://rv7-a.com/avionics.htm Finished Results http://rv7-a.com/Img_5172.jpg -- Walter Tondu http://www.rv7-a.com Ready to move to airport Looking for a trailer... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Joel Harding <cajole76(at)ispwest.com>
Subject: Re: Mounting Radios
Date: Apr 19, 2005
Bob, One other thing to consider is the space behind the radios. The traditional mounting leaves minimal space to get to the plugs for trouble shooting or adding pins at a later date. Moving the radios further back would only aggravate the situation. Joel Harding > On 04/18 3:45, Bob C. wrote: > >> >> I'm ready to mount my GNS430, Transponder, and Audio Panel. >> >> They look like they'll stick out quite a ways . . . looks like it >> would be nice to set them back in the panel . . . not quite flush . . >> . what has been the best solution for mounting radio equipment . . . >> the traditional way or set back into the panel. > > Mine stick out (all of them) exactly 3/10th of an inch, just shy > of the bezel width. It was pretty easy to fabricate the mounts. > I think it looks ok. I assume that mounting "methods" are similar > for 8's and 7's, but I could be wrong, don't know much about 8's. > > see entry dated 7/3/04 > http://rv7-a.com/avionics.htm > > Finished Results > http://rv7-a.com/Img_5172.jpg > > -- > Walter Tondu > http://www.rv7-a.com > Ready to move to airport > Looking for a trailer... > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg@itmack" <greg(at)itmack.com>
Subject: Fuse bottom skins
Date: Apr 23, 2005
Hi all, I always have problems on the weekend. I'm trying to fit the F842 bottom skin. The instructions say to line up the 2 pre-punched holes at the forward end of the F842 with pre-punched holes at the aft end of the F826 & F827. My problem is the holes punched in the F842 are not the same distance apart as the ones in the F826 & F827. The F826 & F827 line up on the centres of the F806 and F807 and the pre-punched holes of the F804 should keep the F826 & F827 square as well. Is this a standard problem and one of the holes in the F842 punched wrong or is this something I've done wrong? With only one hole clecoed and using a tight string line the F842 sits nicely centred along the fuse. Greg ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cory Emberson" <bootless(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Dan Checkoway's Panel in June Kitplanes Magazine
Date: Apr 30, 2005
Hello, all! I just got my June issue of Kitplanes Magazine, and lo and behold, there is Dan Checkoway's RV-7 panel in former RV-8'er Ken Balch's panel article! Well done! best, Cory ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "George Inman" <ghinman(at)mts.net>
Subject: Manifold pressure to primer port
Date: May 02, 2005
What did others use to connect Manifold press. to primer port Primer fittings are 5/16 32 but some say to use AN816-4 Whch is 1/4 inch The primer port on my #4 cyl. seems a bit larger than 1/4" GEORGE H. INMAN ghinman(at)mts.net CELL 204 799 7062 HOME 204 287 8334 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 02, 2005
Subject: [ Mike Holland ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: Mike Holland Lists: RV-List,RV6-List,RV7-List,RV8-List,RV9-List,RV10-List Subject: Quickbuild Fuel Pickup Issue http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/hollandm@pacbell.net.05.02.2005/index.html o Main Photo Share Index http://www.matronics.com/photoshare o Submitting a Photo Share If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the following information along with your email message and files: 1) Email List or Lists that they are related to: 2) Your Full Name: 3) Your Email Address: 4) One line Subject description: 5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic: 6) One-line Description of each photo or file: Email the information above and your files and photos to: pictures(at)matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn(at)cox.net>
Subject: Andair fuel valve/Gascolator FS
Date: May 03, 2005
Hi All, I have a NIB Andair gascolator with 3/8" female fittings and quick drain valve for sale. $185 (Spruce price $189.95 + 29.95) Also, New mounted but never used Andair FS20-20-D2 fuel selector valve. This has female fittings, 3/8" feed, 1/4" return. $380. $550 for both + shipping I'm changing directions and don't need these for my set up. Darwin N. Barrie P19 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jimmy Hill" <jimmy(at)jhill.biz>
Subject: Dakota's
Date: May 15, 2005
Planning a sightseeing trip in our RV-8A to the Dakota territory (both North and South). Would much appreciate any suggested stops, sights, RV friendly places, good overnites, etc. Thanks. Jimmy ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <groves(at)epix.net>
Subject: Re: Dakota's
Date: May 15, 2005
Hello Jimmy, Stop in Lisbon,ND my father in-law is the airport manager and a crop sprayer there. They just put new taxi ways and a new airport office in and it is GREAT! Really friendly town and would make a great stop in SE North Dakota. The identifer is 6L3, tell Marlin(my father-in-law) that I sent you and I am sure you will get the royal teatment. If you are going to be around that area on june 19 they are having a fly in breakfest. Have fun, Kirk Groves RV-8 starting QB fuse > > From: "Jimmy Hill" <jimmy(at)jhill.biz> > Date: 2005/05/15 Sun PM 02:23:41 EDT > To: > Subject: RV8-List: Dakota's > > > Planning a sightseeing trip in our RV-8A to the Dakota territory (both North and South). > > Would much appreciate any suggested stops, sights, RV friendly places, good overnites, etc. > > Thanks. > > Jimmy > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 16, 2005
From: j1j2h3(at)juno.com
Subject: Paranoider Deutschenmoerder kommt in Psychiatrie
--> RV8-List message posted by: j1j2h3(at)juno.com Lese selbst: http://brandenburg.rz.fhtw-berlin.de/poetschke.html --------------------------------------------------- Letter content was scanned by WinAntiVirus 2005. No threat detected. Please visit www.winantivirus.com for more details. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 20, 2005
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
Subject: Fuselage Issue # 2 - Twist on 887 longeron
--> RV8-List message posted by: For those of you who have not been here yet please note that there is an error in the fuselage construction instructions. On page 6-5, it says =93forward of 804A both a bend and a twist are required=92. Problem is that by doing this, the twist goes from 0=B0 at F-804A to app. 15=B0 at the firewall top weldment. BUT there should already be a twist at 804A so the twist should be between, 807 and 804B =96 i.e. 0=B0 at 807 and 15=B0 at 804B, hence no additional twist between 804 and firewall. Mich=E8le ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 20, 2005
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
Subject: fuselage issue #1 - Roll bar width vs 804 a tip separation
--> RV8-List message posted by: There is a problem in the pre punched dimensions of 804 A/B. When assembled, the gap may be too wide for positioning the roll bar. The requirement is that the 887 longerons should be straight between the 807 bulkhead and the firewall weldment. When I did this and put 804 on, I discovered that the 804A/B cross wise width is too wide by more than =BD=94 which causes the longerons to bend in the horizontal plane substantially which will prevent the roll bar to be bolted onto the 887 longerons. The solution I have been recommended is to build on and later, when it is time to adjust things for the roll bar, to bring in the sides of the cockpit via a long clamp across the cockpit and then flute the 804A/B webs to absorb their buckling. I am currently reassembling things to check whether I should not be doing the fluting now rather than later. I have discussed this problem with Van=92s, please feel free to comment. Mich=E8le Delsol RV8 Fuselage - SN 81963 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 20, 2005
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
Subject: Fuselage Issue # 3 - F827/7 to F842 positioning
--> RV8-List message posted by: Skins F826/7 have two cross wise aft lines of rivets =96 they attach the F826/7 skins to the F842 skin and to the F807 bulkhead. To make a long story short, plans tell you that the match hole is on the edge line of rivets =96 If you do this, then the F842 will not match the bulkheads aft, 806, 805=85 to 812. Too match their positions, the match hole to use is on the inside of the two lines of rivet holes. drawing 28 (F826 bottom view) is wrong. This is corroborated by the fact that if you do overlap 826/7 to 842 on two lines of rivets instead of one, the junction is a lot stronger and 842 does get riveted onto 807 =96 which makes sense. Otherwise the aft part of the airplane would be held by only one line of rivet and the aft bulkheads would have to be pushed back from their planned dimensions. I contacted Vans on this =96 they will modify the plans. Feel free to comment. Mich=E8le RV8 =96 Fuselage SN81963 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 20, 2005
Subject: fuselage issue #1 - Roll bar width vs 804 a tip separation
From: "Ken Dominy" <abqmooney(at)excite.com>
--> RV8-List message posted by: "Ken Dominy" I had the same problem with my 8 qb, and another local builder with his standard kit. My solution was to take the roll bar to a body shop and use a power pack to expand the roll bar to fit the fuselage as built. It took about 3 inches of displacement for the roll bar to stretch the 1/4 to 3/8 inch required after "springback." The flanges of the roll bar did not fit down flush with the longeron (even worse after the stretch). I could have filled the wedge shaped gap with somthing, but that would have the two outer surfaces not parallel, and not suitable for bolting together. I could have made a wedge and placed it under the bolt heads, but didn't like that idea either. Both of us wound up bending the roll bar flanges downward with a large cresent wrench. Of course, the tack welds on the edges broke, but the flanges fit, and we were able to bolt the roll bars on our aircraft sucessfully.--- On Fri 05/20, owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com wrote: From: [mailto: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com, RV-8(at)yahoogroups.comDate: Fri, 20 May 2005 10:29:23 +0200Subject: RV8-List: fuselage issue #1 - Roll bar width vs 804 a tip separation-- RV8-List message posted by: There is a problem in the pre punched dimensions of 804 A/B. When assembled,the gap may be too wide for positioning the roll bar.The requirement is that the 887 longerons should be straight between the 807bulkhead and the firewall weldment. When I did this and put 804 on, Idiscovered that the 804A/B cross wise width is too wide by more than =BD=94which causes the longerons to bend in the horizontal plane substantiallywhich will prevent the roll bar to be bolted onto the 887 longerons.The solution I have been recommended is to build on and later, when it istime to adjust things for the roll bar, to bring in the sides of the cockpitvia a long clamp across the cockpit and then flute the 804A/B webs to absorbtheir buckling.I am ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 21, 2005
From: "Vincent Himsl" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com>
Subject: Rv8 Botched cowl cut
--> RV8-List message posted by: "Vincent Himsl" Hello, I have botched the cutting of my cowl, as in major. The main area affected is where the top and lower halves meet. Half the distance from the firewall to the front has a gap 1/2" or so on both sides. Fortunately, I didn't screw up further by cutting off the front section whee the plate nuts and screws go. I intend to rebuild the edges affected (West System Epoxy, Rutan's S cloth) but do not know if I can get away with this as I will have to mount the hinges to this rebuilt area. Would appreciate feedback from any who have faced this, especially those who have communicated with Van's. Thanks! Vince Himsl RV8 Finish Moscow, ID USA -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] Subject: RV8-List: fuselage issue #1 - Roll bar width vs 804 a tip separation --> RV8-List message posted by: There is a problem in the pre punched dimensions of 804 A/B. When assembled, the gap may be too wide for positioning the roll bar. The requirement is that the 887 longerons should be straight between the 807 bulkhead and the firewall weldment. When I did this and put 804 on, I discovered that the 804A/B cross wise width is too wide by more than =BD=94 which causes the longerons to bend in the horizontal plane substantially which will prevent the roll bar to be bolted onto the 887 longerons. The solution I have been recommended is to build on and later, when it is time to adjust things for the roll bar, to bring in the sides of the cockpit via a long clamp across the cockpit and then flute the 804A/B webs to absorb their buckling. I am currently reassembling things to check whether I should not be doing the fluting now rather than later. I have discussed this problem with Van=92s, please feel free to comment. Mich=E8le Delsol RV8 Fuselage - SN 81963 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 21, 2005
From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject: Re: Rv8 Botched cowl cut
--> RV8-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins Hi Vince, Sorry to hear about the problem. I'm getting close to being able to work on my cowl, so if you don't mind, I'd appreciate knowing how it happened, so I can avoid making the same mistake. Thanks! Mickey > I have botched the cutting of my cowl, as in major. > > The main area affected is where the top and lower halves meet. Half the > distance from the firewall to the front has a gap 1/2" or so on both sides. > Fortunately, I didn't screw up further by cutting off the front section whee > the plate nuts and screws go. > -- Mickey Coggins http://www.rv8.ch/ #82007 Wiring ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 23, 2005
From: Craig <craigtxtx(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV8 Aileron bracket fab question
Reference: Aileron hinge bracket assembly W-413, Dwg. 10A The inboard aileron hinge bracket assembly W-413 calls for three AN426 flush rivets. The exploded iso view calls out the flat head location as "inboard" or "outboard". Are the "inboard" and "outboard" terms relative to the wing, or the aileron? I'm not sure why these few rivets are specified flush rivets, so its hard to determine which side of the assembly needs to be a smooth surface. Thanks, Craig RV8AQB wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kdh347(at)aol.com
Date: May 23, 2005
Subject: Re: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 05/22/05
please remove me from list ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kevin Shannon" <kshannon(at)seanet.com>
Subject: Rv8 Botched cowl cut
Date: May 23, 2005
Vince, I did the same thing when I built my 9A, and rebuilt the edge with West systems. Had no problems. I put an extra layup over the patched area on the inside, and shimmed the other half to match the added thickness. Kevin Shannon RV-9A sold RV-8 N184KS almost ready vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> Hello, I have botched the cutting of my cowl, as in major. The main area affected is where the top and lower halves meet. Half the distance from the firewall to the front has a gap 1/2" or so on both sides. Fortunately, I didn't screw up further by cutting off the front section whee the plate nuts and screws go. I intend to rebuild the edges affected (West System Epoxy, Rutan's S cloth) but do not know if I can get away with this as I will have to mount the hinges to this rebuilt area. Would appreciate feedback from any who have faced this, especially those who have communicated with Van's. Thanks! Vince Himsl RV8 Finish Moscow, ID USA ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 23, 2005
From: "Don McNamara" <N8RV(at)gte.net>
Subject: Re: Rv8 Botched cowl cut
Vince, I'm sure you'll be fine repairing your cowl edges. HOWEVER ... I do still have a new lower cowl with scoop if anyone needs it ... make somebody a really sweet deal ... ;-) -- Don McNamara N8RV ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kevin Shannon" <kshannon(at)seanet.com> Subject: RE: RV8-List: Rv8 Botched cowl cut > > > Vince, > I did the same thing when I built my 9A, and rebuilt the edge with West > systems. Had no problems. I put an extra layup over the patched area on > the inside, and shimmed the other half to match the added thickness. > Kevin Shannon > RV-9A sold > RV-8 N184KS almost ready > > vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> > > > Hello, > > I have botched the cutting of my cowl, as in major. > > The main area affected is where the top and lower halves meet. Half the > distance from the firewall to the front has a gap 1/2" or so on both > sides. > Fortunately, I didn't screw up further by cutting off the front section > whee > the plate nuts and screws go. > > I intend to rebuild the edges affected (West System Epoxy, Rutan's S > cloth) > but do not know if I can get away with this as I will have to mount the > hinges to this rebuilt area. > > Would appreciate feedback from any who have faced this, especially those > who > have communicated with Van's. > > Thanks! > > Vince Himsl > RV8 Finish > Moscow, ID USA > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "BRUCE GRAY" <brucerv84us(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV8 Aileron bracket fab question
Date: May 23, 2005
Craig, I am not looking at my wings but I believe the AN426 heads are on the outboard side(WING) of the assembly. There is another one on the bottom outboard most rivet hole also. This is all to allow clearance for the aileron when deflecting in its range of motion. You will understand all of it when you pin up the aileron for the first time and see the clearance issues I am talking about. If you were to install 470's or install the rivet from the inboard side you may have clearance issues with the aileron counterweight. Hope this help a little. If this doesn't wait till I get home and look at my wings. Deal! Bruce G. RV8 Fuse due in 2 weeks >From: Craig <craigtxtx(at)yahoo.com> >Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV8-List: RV8 Aileron bracket fab question >Date: Mon, 23 May 2005 03:54:16 -0700 (PDT) > > >Reference: Aileron hinge bracket assembly W-413, Dwg. 10A > >The inboard aileron hinge bracket assembly W-413 calls for three AN426 >flush rivets. The exploded iso view calls out the flat head location as >"inboard" or "outboard". Are the "inboard" and "outboard" terms relative >to the wing, or the aileron? I'm not sure why these few rivets are >specified flush rivets, so its hard to determine which side of the assembly >needs to be a smooth surface. > >Thanks, > >Craig >RV8AQB wings > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 24, 2005
Subject:
From: "romeo.victor@t-online.de" <romeo.victor@t-online.de>
-- Stephan J.W. Servatius Untere Hauptstr. 3 85461 Bockhorn GERMANY Tel. +49 8122 483 83 Fax. +49 8122 902 188 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 25, 2005
From: Craig <craigtxtx(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV8 Aileron bracket fab question
Bruce, Thanks. I also wrote Vans and they indicated that all references in the plans are relative to the centerline of the aircraft. Seems obvious now, but didn't seem so clear when I was in the hanger trying to make sure I didn't screw anything up. Craig ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wally Allington" <chilipepper(at)summergrove.net>
Subject: RV8 Aileron bracket fab question
Date: May 25, 2005
Craig That question also came up as I was working on the wings. Called Vans and they said think of everything on the airplane as from the fuselage out rather than from the individual component. Good luck Wally -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Craig Subject: RV8-List: RV8 Aileron bracket fab question Reference: Aileron hinge bracket assembly W-413, Dwg. 10A The inboard aileron hinge bracket assembly W-413 calls for three AN426 flush rivets. The exploded iso view calls out the flat head location as "inboard" or "outboard". Are the "inboard" and "outboard" terms relative to the wing, or the aileron? I'm not sure why these few rivets are specified flush rivets, so its hard to determine which side of the assembly needs to be a smooth surface. Thanks, Craig RV8AQB wings ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 27, 2005
From: "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com>
Subject: FAB
I'm in the initial stages of fitting my Van's "Filtered Air Box" to my "O-360" engine with a Precision MA4-5 carburetor. Like for most of these carburetors, I had to cut a hole to allow the bowl drain to protrude into the "mount plate" (VA-131-C). My question is this: The above hole will allow "dirty air" to enter the "clean air part of the air box" unless you do something to seal it! What have others done to seal these cracks . . . or am I missing something?? Thanks, Bob Christensen RV-8 N678RC - In SE Iowa . . . FWF, etc., etc. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dick DeCramer" <diesel(at)rconnect.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: FAB
Date: May 27, 2005
I used red RTV high temp silicon from NAPA...about $5 for a standard size caulk tube with a cap. I have various medical syringes around the shop (we have a nurse in the family) which make excellent dispensers for the tube since the caulk tube is somewhat bulky. Use the syringes without the needle and use the original caps as a seal. The silicon can be put into a small size and a larger size syringe and you will get an 1/8" & about a 1/4" bead respectively with very good quantity control. I caulked all around the engine baffles, the carburetor mount plate, as chaff pads on my SCAT tubing, and other uses as I did my FWF and still had about 25% of my original supply left over after about a year of use and it all remained fresh with no hardening as long as I capped the tube/syringes. Dick DeCramer Southern Minnesota N500DD Rv6 Slider 0320 Sensenich FP 48 hrs. Flight time > [Original Message] > From: Bob C. <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com> > To: ; ; > Date: 5/27/2005 8:25:23 PM > Subject: RV-List: FAB > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Bob C. " > > I'm in the initial stages of fitting my Van's "Filtered Air Box" to my > "O-360" engine with a Precision MA4-5 carburetor. Like for most of these > carburetors, I had to cut a hole to allow the bowl drain to protrude into > the "mount plate" (VA-131-C). > My question is this: The above hole will allow "dirty air" to enter the > "clean air part of the air box" unless you do something to seal it! What > have others done to seal these cracks . . . or am I missing something?? > Thanks, > Bob Christensen > RV-8 N678RC - In SE Iowa . . . FWF, etc., etc. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jacob & Grace" <grizzlybear(at)klondiker.com>
Subject: Re: FAB
Date: May 27, 2005
The plug is replaced with a flush plug, keep the hole to minimum size, and seal with high temp silicone. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com> Subject: RV8-List: FAB > > I'm in the initial stages of fitting my Van's "Filtered Air Box" to my > "O-360" engine with a Precision MA4-5 carburetor. Like for most of these > carburetors, I had to cut a hole to allow the bowl drain to protrude into > the "mount plate" (VA-131-C). > My question is this: The above hole will allow "dirty air" to enter the > "clean air part of the air box" unless you do something to seal it! What > have others done to seal these cracks . . . or am I missing something?? > Thanks, > Bob Christensen > RV-8 N678RC - In SE Iowa . . . FWF, etc., etc. > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 28, 2005
Subject: seats
From: "romeo.victor@t-online.de" <romeo.victor@t-online.de>
Dear builders, I am already airborne since April 2003. I installed my own seats in my 8 and found out that there must be better solutions. Vans offers Oregon Aero seats and there are as well completed seats from Classic Aero Design. Which of those seats are more comfortable? According the fotos, the Classic Aero Design seats appear more wide than the Oregon Aero seats. Opinions? D-EBRV RV8 45 hrs. Stephan J.W. Servatius Untere Hauptstr. 3 85461 Bockhorn GERMANY Tel. +49 8122 483 83 Fax. +49 8122 902 188 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: FAB
Date: May 28, 2005
Bob, On my RV-6A project I sealed the area with red RTV, a suggestion from Van's that was in the RV-6 builder's manual. Have a nice weekend. Stephen Soule (watching the drizzle and fog in Vermont) -----Original Message----- I'm in the initial stages of fitting my Van's "Filtered Air Box" to my "O-360" engine with a Precision MA4-5 carburetor. Like for most of these carburetors, I had to cut a hole to allow the bowl drain to protrude into the "mount plate" (VA-131-C). My question is this: The above hole will allow "dirty air" to enter the "clean air part of the air box" unless you do something to seal it! What have others done to seal these cracks . . . or am I missing something?? Thanks, Bob Christensen RV-8 N678RC - In SE Iowa . . . FWF, etc., etc. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DONKEYVET(at)aol.com
Date: May 28, 2005
Subject: Re: seats
Stephan, I can't comment on how the Oregon Aero seats feel on long flights because my plane is not flying yet. I can say that they are beautiful and very comfortable to sit in at least for a short time. I was very impressed with the workmanship and design of these seats when they arrived. The front seat back has an internal frame and it looks very nice. They sit high in the cockpit and come with adjustable spacers for the rear seat occupant. I bet they are very nice for the long flights. I'll let you know when it is flying which will be hopefully soon! Dennis Flosi, El Paso, Texas ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Joel Harding <cajole76(at)ispwest.com>
Subject: Re: seats
Date: May 28, 2005
Stephan, I can't give you a comparison between the two, but I have the Classic seats, and I'm very satisfied with the comfort as well as the looks. Joel Harding On May 28, 2005, at 1:41 AM, romeo.victor@t-online.de wrote: > <romeo.victor@t-online.de> > > Dear builders, > > I am already airborne since April 2003. I installed my own seats in > my 8 > and found out that there must be better solutions. Vans offers Oregon > Aero seats and there are as well completed seats from Classic Aero > Design. > Which of those seats are more comfortable? According the fotos, the > Classic Aero Design seats appear more wide than the Oregon Aero seats. > > Opinions? > > > D-EBRV > RV8 > 45 hrs. > Stephan J.W. Servatius > Untere Hauptstr. 3 > 85461 Bockhorn > GERMANY > Tel. +49 8122 483 83 > Fax. +49 8122 902 188 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RV-8 project FOR SALE
Date: Jun 01, 2005
From: "Textor, Jack" <jtextor(at)thepalmergroup.com>
Good morning all, For those that expressed interest in purchasing my RV-8 project, I have updated some pictures and information on our web site at www.textorfamily.com <http://www.textorfamily.com/> . Time and $$ dictate the sale. Excellent workmanship throughout. Project includes RV-8 wing and empennage kits. Empennage, ailerons and flaps are complete except fiberglass. Both tanks are complete. The right wing is a quick build stage, ready to close. The left wing is jigged and ready to rivet. This project is essentially at the "quick build stage and can be purchased at below current kit prices. For more complete details please check our web site. Thanks! Jack Textor Des Moines, IA 515-225-7000 work 515-277-4173 ________________________________________________________________________________ RV-8 list RV List
From: Ed OConnor <Edwardoconnor(at)mac.com>
Subject: Advance Angle of Attack (Old PSS System)
Date: Jun 02, 2005
For those of you who have already installed the PSS system on your RV-8, the manual states to install the wing ports 12 inches from the leading edge, which is 6 inches from the trailing edge of the wing skin break line. The instructions say to maintain the same % cord for top and bottom. Anybody, whose system is working, how far from the aft skin edge of the skin is the lower port. Is it also 6 inches? Not sure this is the same cord % as measured that way. I think measuring from the aft edge of the skin line is easier then figuring from a line from the leading edge. But maybe its not that critical. Also, how critical is the #60 drill being centered on the piece mounted on the inner wing skin? I read the archives and understand it is a straight line from the leading edge if you use that method of locating the port. Just looking for an easier method then finding 12 inches from the leading edge since that will require finding a 90 degree line from the cord at the leading edge. RV-8 N366RV. Panama City FL ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "George Inman" <ghinman(at)mts.net>
Subject: Engine thrustline
Date: Jun 03, 2005
How close does the engine thrustline have to match the cabin longerons? My engine thrustline is about one degree downward compared to the cabin longerons. If it was one degree upward I would not worry about it since the engine might sag that much. Is there anyone flying with one degree down.? GEORGE H. INMAN ghinman(at)mts.net CELL 204 799 7062 HOME 204 287 8334 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Esten Spears" <ewspears(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Engine thrustline
Date: Jun 03, 2005
George, Down thrust is a GOOD THING! It is designed into many airplanes. Having some Downthrust minimizes the Pitch Change with Power Level Changes. I have 2 Degrees Down and 2 Degrees Right Thrust. Esten Spears, RV8A, 80922, N922ES, Leeward Air Ranch, Ocala, FL - FWF ----- Original Message ----- From: "George Inman" <ghinman(at)mts.net> Subject: RV8-List: Engine thrustline > > How close does the engine thrustline have > to match the cabin longerons? > My engine thrustline is about one degree downward > compared to the cabin longerons. > If it was one degree upward I would not worry about > it since the engine might sag that much. > Is there anyone flying with one degree down.? > > GEORGE H. INMAN > ghinman(at)mts.net > CELL 204 799 7062 > HOME 204 287 8334 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 08, 2005
From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject: Canopy frame
I've been staring at my canopy for a couple of days, and one thing that does not seem too clear. The rear part of my canopy frame sticks up about 4 inches, and in the instructions it says to bend it down to be about 1/2" - 5/8", IIRC. This seems like a lot of bending. Has anyone else had to bend the frame that much? Is there a reason that we want the rear part of the frame so low? Thanks, Mickey -- Mickey Coggins http://www.rv8.ch/ #82007 Wiring ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Crunkleton" <crunk12(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Canopy frame
Date: Jun 08, 2005
Mickey, You need to get the frame down so that the skirt/plexiglass will attach properly. Yeah, I had to do quite a bit of bending on mine to get it to fit right. 4130 is quite springy, so some over-bending will be in order. Make a lot of small changes rather than one large one, and after much fretting, worrying and bending it will finally fit quite nicely. It's also good that you're doing this during the summer months....the high temperatures help to prevent the canopy from cracking during the fitting/installing process. Good luck. Jim Crunkleton N802JD PS-If you're wondering about the "JD", my wife's name is Donna---yeah, I know how this works! :-) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "jordan" <cjordan(at)telus.net>
Subject: Re: Canopy frame
Date: Jun 08, 2005
Hi Mickey, I am at the same stage and yes I have had to bend the rear frame of the canopy down about 3.5-4inches. I did it by laying a couple of bits of wood down on the floor covered with cloth and shimmed at an angle to match the frame which I wedged under the lip of my work bench.I then pushed down on the other end of the frame and bit by bit bent it to the proper dimension. I must say I was very nervous about the amount of pressure I had to apply but I just took it slow and kept applying more pressure and kept measuring until I was applying enough pressure to see a movement occur.Eventually I got the result I needed. Good luck, call me or email me if you need more info. Colin in Kelowna. 250-764-4147. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> Subject: RV8-List: Canopy frame > > I've been staring at my canopy for a couple of days, and > one thing that does not seem too clear. The rear part of > my canopy frame sticks up about 4 inches, and in the > instructions it says to bend it down to be about > 1/2" - 5/8", IIRC. > > This seems like a lot of bending. Has anyone else had > to bend the frame that much? Is there a reason that > we want the rear part of the frame so low? > > Thanks, > Mickey > -- > Mickey Coggins > http://www.rv8.ch/ > #82007 Wiring > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 13, 2005
From: "Don McNamara" <N8RV(at)gte.net>
Subject: Danny's B-day
"RV-8 List $Matronics$" Gang, I have it on good authority that today is Danny King's birthday. He's shared a LOT with the rest of us builders and has given freely of his knowledge and his time. Take a minute to send him a birthday greeting. He's REALLY old, too ... -- Don McNamara N8RV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Danny's B-day
Date: Jun 13, 2005
> >Gang, I have it on good authority that today is Danny King's birthday. >He's shared a LOT with the rest of us builders and has given freely of his >knowledge and his time. > >Take a minute to send him a birthday greeting. He's REALLY old, too ... > >-- Don McNamara > N8RV > Hey hey hey!! I just had a birthday too! (Okay, in April.) But I'm not NEARLY as old as Danny. Ohmigod no. I think they're placing Danny's last 727 flown next to George Washington's teeth in the Smithsonian. Happy birthday, ole boy! High time Denk RV8 N94BD RV10 '51 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 18, 2005
Subject: [ Dave Rossiter ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: Dave Rossiter Lists: Rocket-List,RV-List,RV4-List,RV8-List Subject: Dave Rossiter's F1 Rocket http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/daverossiter717@hotmail.com.06.18.2005/index.html o Main Photo Share Index http://www.matronics.com/photoshare o Submitting a Photo Share If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the following information along with your email message and files: 1) Email List or Lists that they are related to: 2) Your Full Name: 3) Your Email Address: 4) One line Subject description: 5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic: 6) One-line Description of each photo or file: Email the information above and your files and photos to: pictures(at)matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 18, 2005
Subject: [ Henry Hore ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: Henry Hore <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com> Lists: RV-List,RV6-List,RV7-List,RV8-List,RV9-List Subject: Leveling RV6-A Fuselage http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com.06.18.2005/index.html o Main Photo Share Index http://www.matronics.com/photoshare o Submitting a Photo Share If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the following information along with your email message and files: 1) Email List or Lists that they are related to: 2) Your Full Name: 3) Your Email Address: 4) One line Subject description: 5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic: 6) One-line Description of each photo or file: Email the information above and your files and photos to: pictures(at)matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 20, 2005
From: Jim Bean <jim-bean(at)att.net>
Subject: Transition Training
Does anyone know how to reach the instructor who gives RV transition training in the Conn/NY area? I have finished my -8 and am chicken to

December 05, 2004 - June 23, 2005

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